1996 Chevrolet Blazer Owners Manual

cargo you may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle, And if you will tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load to the GVW because your vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index for more information about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.

If you’re using a weight-carrying hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 10 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B). If you have a weight-distributing hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 12 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B). After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they aren’t, you may be able to get them right simply by moving some items around in the trailer.

4-49

Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the limit for cold tires. You’ll find these numbers on the Certificationmire label on the driver’s door edge, above the door latch, or see “Tire Loading” in the Index. Then be sure you don’t go over the GVW limit for your vehicle, including the weight of the trailer tongue. Hitches It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch. Here are some rules to follow: 0 If you’ll be pulling a trailer that, when loaded, will

weigh more than 2,000 Ibs. (900 kg), be sure to use a properly mounted, weight-distributing hitch and sway control of the proper size. This equipment is very important for proper vehicle loading and good handling when you’re driving.

Will you have to make any holes in the body of your vehicle when you install a trailer hitch? If you do, then be sure to seal the holes later when you remove the hitch. If you don’t seal them, deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from your exhaust can get into your vehicle (see “Carbon Monoxide” in the Index). Dirt and water can, too.

Safety Chains You should always attach chains between your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer so that the tongue will not drop to the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety chains and do not attach them to the bumper. Always leave just enough slack so you can turn with your rig. And, never allow safety chains to drag on the ground.

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Trailer Brakes If your trailer weighs more than 1,000 lbs. (450 kg) loaded, then it needs its own brakes -- and they must be adequate. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install, adjust and maintain them properly. Your trailer’s brake system can tap into the vehicle’s hydraulic brake system only if: 0 The trailer parts can withstand 3,000 psi

(20 650 kPa) of pressure.

0 The trailer’s brake system will use less than

0.02 cubic inch (0.3 cc) of fluid from your vehicle’s master cylinder. Otherwise, both braking systems won’t work well. You could even lose your brakes. If everything checks out this far, then make the brake fluid tap at the port on the master cylinder that sends fluid to the rear brakes. But don’t use copper tubing for this. If you do, it will bend and finally break off. Use steel brake tubing.

Driving with a Trailer

A CAUTION:

01

! a

most wi ow

I and you

If you hr pull a trailer with your vehicle, carbon monoxide (CO) could come into your vehicle. You can’t see or smell CO. It can cause unconsciousness or death. (See “Engine Exhaust” in the Index.) To maximize your safety when towing a trailer:

Have your exhaust system inspected €or leaks, and make necessary repairs before starting on your trip. Keep the rear-most windows closed. If exhaust does come into your vehicle through a window in the rear or another opening, drive with your front, main heating or cooling system on and with the fan on any speed. This will bring fresh, outside air into your vehicle. Do not use MAX A/C because it only recirculates the air inside your vehicle. (See “Comfort Controls” in the Index.)

4-5 1

Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as responsive as your vehicle is by itself. Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform (and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector, lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your electrical connection at the same time. During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working.

Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns. Passing You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane. Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you.

4-52

Making lhrns

NOTICE:

Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering.

When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.

Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have extra wiring and a heavy-duty turn signal flasher (included in the optional trailering package). The green arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other drivers you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop. When towing a trailer, the green arrows on your instrument panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working. Driving On Grades Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much that they would get hot and no longer work well.

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On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce your speed to around 45 mph (70 kmh) to reduce the possibility of engine and transmission overheating. If you have an automatic transmission, you should use DRIVE (D) when towing a trailer. Operating your vehicle in DRIVE (D) when towing a.trailer will minimize heat buildup and extend the life of your transmission. Or, if you have a manual transmission, it’s better not to use FIFTH (5) gear, just drive in FOURTH (4) gear (or, as you need to, a lower gear). When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, consider the following: Engine coolant will boil at a lower temperature than at normal altitudes. If you turn your engine off immediately after towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs similar to engine overheating. To avoid this, let the engine run while parked (preferably on level ground) with the automatic transmission in PARK (P) (or the manual transmission out of gear and the parking brake applied) for a few minutes before turning the engine off. If you do get the overheat warning, see “Engine Overheating” in the Index.

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Parking on Hills You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged. But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s how to do it: 1.

Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into PARK (P) yet, or into gear for a manual transmission. Then turn your wheels into the curb if facing downhill or into traffic if facing uphill. Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking brake, and then shift into PARK (P), or REVERSE (R) for a manual transmission. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle with a manual transfer case shift lever, be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear -- not in NEUTRAL (N). Release the regular brakes.

2. 3.

4.

5.

6.

- -

A CAUTION:

It can be dangerous to get out of your vehicle if the shift lever is not fully in PARK (P) with the parking brake firmly set. Your vehicle can roll. If you have left the engine running, the vehicle can move suddenly. You or others could be injured. To be sure your vehicle won’t move, even when you’re on fairly level ground, use the steps that follow. If you have four-wheel drive with a manual transfer case shift lever and your transfer case in NEUTRAL (N), your vehicle will be free to roll, even if your shift lever is in PARK (P). So, be

sure the transfer case is in a drive gear -- not in

is

NEUTRAL (N).

When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down

while you: 0 Start your engine; 0 Shift into a gear; and

Release the parking brake.

2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks. 4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks.

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Maintenance When Trailer Towing Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more on this. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transmission fluid (don’t overfill), engine oil, axle lubricant, belt, cooling system and brake adjustment. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review these sections before you start your trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight. Trailer Wiring Harness The light duty trailer wiring is a six-wire harness assembly. The heavy duty trailer wiring is an eight-wire harness assembly. The harnesses are stored under the vehicle, along the passenger-side frame crossmember on two-door vehicles or on the driver’s side corner frame crossmember on four-door vehicles. The heavy duty trailer wiring has a 30-amp feed wire with an inline fuse located by the junction block. See “Fuses and Circuit Breakers” in the Index.

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Both harnesses have no connector and should be wired by a qualified electrical technician. The technician can use the following color code chart when connecting the wiring harness to your trailer.

DARK BLUE: Use for electric trailer brakes or auxiliary wiring. RED: Use for battery charging; it connects to the starter solenoid (eight-wire harness only). LIGHT GREEN: Back-up lamps (eight-wire harness only). BROWN: Taillamps and parking lamps. YELLOW Left stoplamp and turn signal. DARK GREEN: Right stoplamp and turn signal. WHITE (Heavy Gage): Ground wire. WHITE (Light Gage): Auxiliary stoplamp.

Securely attach the harness to the trailer, then tape or strap it to your vehicle’s frame rail. Be sure you leave it loose enough so the wiring doesn’t bend or break, but not so loose that it drags on the ground. Store the harness in its original place. Wrap the harness together and tie it neatly so it won’t be damaged.

NOTES

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NOTES

4-58

Section 5 Problems on the Road

Here you’ll find what to do about some problems that can occur on the road. Hazard Warning Flashers

Your hazard warning flashers let you warn others. They also let police know you have a problem. Your front and rear turn signal lamps will flash on and off.

Press the button on top of the steering column all the way down to make your front and rear turn signal lamps flash on and off.

Your hazard warning flashers work no matter what position your key is in, and even if the key isn’t in. To turn off the flashers, press the button until the first click and release.

5-1

When the hazard warning flashers are on, your turn signals won’t work. The flashers will stop if you step on the brake. Other Warning Devices If you carry reflective triangles, you can set one up at the side of the road about 300 feet (100 m) behind your vehicle. Jump Starting If your battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. But please use the following steps to do it safely.

NOTICE:

Ignoring these steps could result in costly damage to your vehicle that wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Do not try to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it. This could damage your vehicle, even if you have a manual transmission. And if you have an automatic transmission, it won’t start that way.

5-2

Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:

They contain acid that can burn you. They contain gas that can explode or ignite. They contain enough electricity to burn you. If you don’t follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.

1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt

battery with a negative ground system.

I NOTICE:

If the other system isn’t a 12-volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged.

2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles aren’t touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you don’t want. You wouldn’t be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. You could be injured if the vehicles roll. Set the parking brake firmly on each vehicle. Put an automatic transmission in PARK (P) or a manual transmission in NEUTRAL (N). If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle with a manual transfer case shift lever, be sure the transfer case is not in NEUTRAL (N).

3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug

unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter, or accessory power outlets, if you have this option. Turn off all lamps that aren’t needed as well as radios. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. In addition, it could save your radio!

NOTICE:

If you leave your radio on, it could be badly damaged. The repair wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.

I A CAUTION:

If your vehicle has air conditioning, the auxiliary electric fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

5-3

5. Check that the jumper cables don’t have loose or

missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) and negative (-) will go to negative (-) or a metal engine part. Don’t connect positive (+) to negative (-) or you’ll get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too.

6. Connect the red

positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the vehicle with the dead battery.

4. Open both hoods and locate the batteries. Find the

positive (+) and negative (-) terminals on each battery.

Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You don’t need to add water to the Delco Freedom’ battery installed in every new GM vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you don’t, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Don’t get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.

5-4

7. Don’t let the other

end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery.

8. Now connect the black

negative (-) cable to

Don’t let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative cable doesn’t go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy unpainted metal part on the engine of the vehicle with the dead battery.

A Y. Attach the cable at least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, but the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less.

10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and

run the engine for a while.

5-5

11. Try to start the vehicle with the dead battery. If

it won’t start after a few tries make sure all connections are good. If it still won’t start, it probably needs service.

12. Remove the cables in reverse order to prevent

electrical shorting. Take care that they don’t touch each other or any other metal.

Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engines are running.

I - B

IA/

A. Heavy Metal Engine Part B. Good Battery C. Dead Battery

5-6

Towing Your Vehicle Try to have a GM dealer or a professional towing service tow your vehicle. See “Roadside Assistance” in the Index. If your vehicle has been changed since it was factory-new by adding things like fog lamps, aero skirting, or special tires and wheels, these instructions may not be correct. ,Before you do anything, turn on the hazard warning flashers. When you call, tell the towing service:

Whether your vehicle has rear-wheel drive, four-wheel drive or all-wheel drive. The make, model and year of your vehicle. Whether you can move the shift lever for the transmission and shift the transfer case, if you have one. If there was an accident, what was damaged.

When the towing service arrives, let the tow operator know that this manual contains these towing instructions. The operator may want to see them.

I A CAUTION:

To help avoid injury to you or others: 0 Never let passengers ride in a vehicle that is

being towed.

0 Never tow faster than safe or posted speeds. 0 Never tow with damaged parts not fully secured. 0 Never get under your vehicle after it has

been lifted by the tow truck.

0 Always use separate safety chains on each

side when towing a vehicle.

0 Never use J-hooks. Use T-hooks instead.

5-7

A vehicle can fall from a car carrier if it isn't adequately secured. This can cause a collision, serious personal injury and vehicle damage. The vehicle should be tightly secured with chains or steel cables before it is transported. Don't use substitutes (ropes, leather straps, canvas webbing, etc.) that can be cut by sharp edges underneath the towed vehicle. Always use T-hooks inserted in the T-hook slots. Never use J-hooks. They will damage drivetrain and suspension components.

When your vehicle is being towed, have the ignition key turned to the OFF position. The steering wheel should be clamped in a straight-ahead position with a clamping device designed for towing service. Do not use the vehicle's steering column lock for this. The transmission should be in NEUTRAL (N) and the transfer case, if you have one, should be in 2HI. The parking brake should be released. Don't have your vehicle towed on the drive wheels unless you must. If the vehicle must be towed on the drive wheels, be sure to follow the speed and distance restrictions later in this section or your transmission will be damaged. If these limitations must be exceeded, then the drive wheels have to be supported on a dolly.

5-8

Front Towing Tow Limits -- 35 mph (56 k d ? ) , 50 miles (80 kin) Vehicles with the all-wheel-drive or four-wheel-drive option must use a towing dolly under the rear wheels when towing from the front.

NOTICE:

Do not tow with sling-type equipment or fascia/fog lamp damage will occur, Use wheel lift or car carrier equipment. Additional ramping may be required for car carrier equipment. Use safety chains and wheel straps. Towing a vehicle over rough surfaces could damage a vehicle. Damage can occur from vehicle to ground or vehicle to wheel-lift equipment, To help avoid damage, install a towing dolly and raise the vehicle until adequate clearance is obtained between the ground and/or wheel-lift equipment. Do not attach winch cables or J-hooks to suspension components when using car carrier equipment, Always use T-hooks inserted in the T-hook slots.

- 5-9

Rear Towing Tow Limits -- 35 mph (56 k h ) , 50 miles (80 km) Vehicles with the all-wheel-drive or four- wheel-drive option must use a towing dolly under the front wheels when towing from the real:

NOTICE:

Do not tow with sling-type equipment or rear bumper valance damage will occur. Use wheel lift or car carrier equipment. Additional ramping may be required for car carrier equipment. Use safety chains and wheel straps. Towing a vehicle over rough surfaces could damage a vehicle. Damage can occur from vehicle to ground or vehicle to wheel-lift equipment. To help avoid damage, install a towing dolly and raise the vehicle until adequate clearance is obtained between the ground and/or wheel-lift equipment. Do not attach winch cables or J-hooks to suspension components when using car' carrier equipment. Always use ,T-hooks inserted in the T-hook slots.

Engine Overheating You will find a coolant temperature gage on your vehicle’s instrument panel. If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine

: / . . :

Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before opening the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is fire. You or overheated, the liquids in it can catch others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool.

I NOTICE:

If your engine catches fire because you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty.

5-11

If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine If you get the overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you:

Climb a long hill on a hot day. Stop after high-speed driving. Idle for long periods in traffic. Tow a trailer. See “Driving on Grades” in the Index. If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. Turn off your air conditioner. 2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan

speed and open the window as necessary.

3. If you’re in a traffic jam, shift to NEUTRAL (N);

otherwise, shift to the highest gear while driving -- AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE (@) or DRIVE (D) for automatic transmissions.

If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning doesn’t come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there’s still no sign of steam, push the accelerator until the engine speed is about twice as fast as normal idle speed. Bring the engine speed back to normal idle speed after two or three minutes. Now see if the warning stops. But then, if you still have the warning, turn o f t h e engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.

5-12

When you decide it's safe to lift the hood, here's what you'll see:

If your vehicle has air conditioning, the auxiliary electric fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, don't do anything else until it cools down.

A. Coolant Recovery Tank B. Radiator Pressure Cap C. Engine Fan

5-13

Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Don't touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Don't run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant, That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.

NOTICE:

Engine damage from running your engine without coolant isn't covered by your warranty,

If there seems to be no leak, start the engine again. See if the fan speed increases when idle speed is doubled by pushing the accelerator pedal down. If it doesn't, your vehicle needs service. Turn off the engine.

The coolant level should be at the ADD mark. If it isn't, you may have a leak in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system.

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How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Recovery Tank If you haven’t found a problem yet, but the coolant level isn’t at the ADD mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean water (preferably distilled) and DEX-COOL TM (orange-colored, silicate-free) antifreeze at the coolant recovery tank. (See “Engine Coolant” in the Index for more kformation )

1 NOTICE:

In cold weather, water can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mix.

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid like alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mix will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mix. With plain water or the wrong mix, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mix of clean water and DEX-COOL TM antifreeze.

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I A CAUTION:

YOL -an be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.

When the coolant in the coolant recovery tank is at ADD, start your vehicle. If the overheat warning continues, there’s one more thing you can try. You can add the proper coolant mix directly to the radiator, but be sure the cooling system is cool before you do it.

I A CAUTION:

am and scalding liqu--_J from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They pressure cap -- even a little -- they can come out are under pressure, and if you turn the radiator

CAUTION: (Continued)

5-16

CAI JTTON: (Continued)

at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and radiator pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.

How to Add Coolant to the Radiator

1. You can remove the radiator pressure cap when

the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise until it first stops. (Don’t press down while turning the pressure cap.) If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.

2. Then keep turning the pressure cap, but now push

down as you turn it. Remove the pressure cap.

5-17

3. Fill the radiator with the proper mix, up to the base

of the filler neck.

4. Then fill the coolant recovery tank to the ADD mark. 5. Put the cap back on the coolant recovery tank, but

leave the radiator pressure cap off.

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6. Start the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine fan.

7. By this time the coolant level inside the radiator

filler neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper mix through the filler neck until the level reaches the base of the filler neck.

8.' Then replace the pressure cap. At any time during this procedure if coolant begins to flow out of the filler neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure the arrows on the pressure cap line up like this.

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Engine Fan Noise This vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide more air to cool the engine. In most every day driving conditions, the clutch is not engaged. This improves fuel economy and reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing and/or high outside temperatures, the’ fan speed increases when the clutch engages. So you may hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and should not be mistaken as the transmission slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system functioning properly. The fan will slow down when additional cooling is not required and the clutch disengages. You may also hear this fan noise when you start the engine. It will go away as the fan clutch disengages.

If a Tire Goes Flat It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving, especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane. A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you’d use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop -- well off the road if possible. If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.

5-20

Changing a Flat Tire If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard warning flashers.

Changing a tire can cause an injury. The vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over you or other people. You and they could be badly injured. Find a level place to change your tire. To help prevent the vehicle from moving:

CAUTION: (Continued)

4. Turn off the engine. 5. Put the wheel blocks at the front and

rear of the tire farthest away from the one being changed. That would be the tire on the other side of the vehicle, at the opposite end.

1. Set the parking brake firmly. 2. Put an automatic transmission shift lever in PARK (P) or shift a manual transmission to FIRST (1) or REVERSE (R).

3. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle with a manual transfer case shift lever, gear -- not in NEUTRAL (N). be sure the transfer case

is in a drive

CAUTION: (Continued)

The following steps will tell you how to use the jack and change a tire.

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NOTICE:

Never remove or restow a tire frodto a stowage position under the vehicle while the vehicle is supported by a jack. Always tighten the tire fully against the underside of the vehicle when restowing.

To remove the underbody-mounted spare, insert the chisel end of the wheel wrench, on an angle, into the hole in the rear bumper. Be sure the chisel end of the wheel wrench connects into the hoist shaft.

Removing the Spare Tire and Tools The jacking equipment you'll need is stored along the driver's rear wall. In some cases, you may have to remove the spare tire in order to reach the jack. Your vehicle is also equipped with work gloves and a plastic ground mat to assist in the changing of a flat tire.

To remove your jack cover, pull up on the latch at the end of the cover, near the endgate and the latch on the top of the cover. Remove the wheel blocks, jack and wheel wrench.

The following instructions explain how to remove the spare tire, depending on where it is mounted on your vehicle.

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Turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise to lower the spare tire. Keep turning the wheel wrench until the spare tire can be pulled out from under the vehicle. When the tire has been completely lowered, tilt the retainer at the end of the cable and pull it through the wheel opening. Pull the tire out from under the vehicle.

I NOTICE: I To help avoid vehicle damage, do not drive the

vehicle before the cable is restored.

If you have an inside-mounted spare tire, the tire must be removed in order to have access to the jack storage. To remove an inside-mounted spare tire, reach into your tire’s cover and unscrew the wing nut at the center of the wheel. Remove it and the retainer. Unhook the tire from the mounting bracket and remove the cover. To remove a rear-mounted spare tire, first make sure that the carrier arm is fully latched to the endgate. Then remove the spare tire cover.

The locking wheel nut can be removed by snapping the rubber weather cover off the face of the lock case.

Insert the key and pull the lock case straight off. It is not necessary to turn

Put the spare tire near the flat tire.

5-23

1

The tools you'll be using include the jack (A) and wheel wrench (B). Your vehicle may also have an optional hub cap removal tool.

If you have individual wheel nut caps that cover each nut, they must be removed in order to get to the wheel nuts. Use the socket end of the wheel wrench to remove the wheel nut caps. Your wheel nut caps may attach your hub cap to the wheel. Remove these wheel nut caps before you take off the hub cap.

5-24

Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire

The optional hub cap removal tool is stowed with the jack. Position the hub cap removal tool in the notch and pull straight away from the wheel to avoid potential damage to the hub cap and wheel surface.

Remove the hub cap. If you have an aluminum or plastic molded hub cap, pry it off with the chisel end of your wheel wrench. Some of the molded plastic hub caps have imitation wheel nuts molded into them. The wheel wrench won't fit these imitation nuts, so don't try to remove them with the socket end of the wheel wrench.

1. Using the wheel wrench, loosen all the wheel nuts.

Don't remove them yet.

2. Turn the jack handle clockwise to raise the lift head.

5-25

3. Fit the jack into the appropriate hole nearest the

flat tire.

A. Front Frame Hole B. Rear Frame Hole (2-Door) or Spring Hanger Hole (4-Door)

5-26

ing under: ehj ; w n i

Gc ;jacked upis dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack, you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack.

NOTICE:

Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned will damage the vehicle or may allow the vehicle to fall off the jack. Be sure to fit the jack lift head into the proper location before raising your vehicle.

4. Raise the vehicle by turning the jack handle clockwise. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so there is enough room for the spare tire to fit.

5. Remove all the wheel nuts and take off the flat tire.

6. Remove any rust or dirt

from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces and spare wheel.

A CAUTION:

Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from the places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off.

5-27

' A CAUTION:

Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If you do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel could fall off, causing a serious accident.

7. Place the spare on the wheel mounting surface. 8. Put the nuts on by

hand. Make sure the cone-shaped end is toward the wheel. Tighten each nut by hand until the wheel is held against the hub. If a nut can't be turned by hand, use the wheel wrench and see your dealer as soon as possible.

5-28

9. Lower the vehicle by turning the jack handle counterclockwise. Lower the jack completely.

10. Use the wrench to tighten the wheel nuts firmly in a

crisscross sequence as shown.

Incorrect wheel nuts or improperly tightel wheel nuts can cause the wheel to become loose and even come off. This could lead to an accident. Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts. If you have to replace them, be sure to get new GM original equipment wheel nuts. Stop somewhere as soon as you can and have the nuts tightened with a torque wrench to 95 lb-ft (130 Nom).

I NOTICE:

Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque specification.

5-29

Storing a Flat or Spare Tire -..ne T n 4 s

Follow this diagram to store the underbody-mounted spare.

Storing a jack, a tire or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place.

5-30

A. Retainer B. Valve Stem

(Pointed Down)

C . Spare Tire D. Spring E. Wheel Wrench E Lower G. Raise H. Hoist Arm

cTD

1. Put the tire on the ground at the rear of the vehicle, with the valve stem pointed down and to the rear.

2. Pull the retainer through the wheel. 3. Put the chisel end of the wheel wrench, on an angle,

through the hole in the rear bumper and into the hoist shaft. Turn the wheel wrench clockwise until the tire is raised against the underside of the vehicle. You will hear two “clicks” when the tire is secure, but pull on the tire to make sure.

Follow this diagram for the inside-mounted spare.

Follow this diagram for the rear-mounted spare.

A. Spare Tire B. Retainer (Two-Wheel Drive) C. Nut D. Cover E. Retainer (Four-wheel Drive) E Wheel Carrier G. Hook

A. Wheel Carrier B. Spare Tire C. Wheel Nut and Locking Nut Cylinder Reinstall the locking wheel nut using the wheel wrench. Then push the lock case onto the lug nut until it stops. The key does not have to be inserted into. the 1ock:Push the lock case to be sure it is secured. The special lug nut and lock case is not intended to be used on any road wheel, only on the spare wheel carrier. Tighten the nuts to 22 to 32 lb-ft (30 to 40 N-m).

5-31

Return the jack, wheel wrench and wheel blocks to the proper location in your vehicle’s rear area. Secure the items and replace the jack cover.

I A CAUTION:

Make sure the tire and carrier are secure. Driving with the tire or carrier unlatched could injure pedestrians or damage the vehicle.

A. Retainer B. Rubber Band (Some Models)

C. Work Gloves D. Mat E. Jack Storage Cover

E Wheel Blocks G. Hub Cap Removal

Tool (Some Models)

H. Wheel Wrench I. Jack J. Jacking Instructions

5-32

NOTICE:

Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting your transmission back and forth, you can destroy your transmission.

For information about using tire chains on your vehicle, see “Tire Chains” in the Index.

If You’re Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow What you don’t want to do when your vehicle is stuck is to spin your wheels too fast. The method known as “rocking” can help you get out when you’re stuck, but you must use caution.

A CAUTION:

In

If you let your tires spin at high speed, thej explode, and you or others could be injured. And, the transmission or other parts of the vehicle can overheat. That could cause an engine compartment fire or other damage. When you’re stuck, spin the wheels as little as possible. Don’t spin the wheels above 35 mph (55 kmh) as shown on the speedometer.

5-33

Using the Recovery Hooks

.“ .

Rocking your vehicle to get it out: First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will clear the area around your front wheels. Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear (or with a manual transmission, between FIRST (1) or SECOND (2) and REVERSE(R)), spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear. If that doesn’t get you out after a few tries, you may need to be towed out. Or, you can use your recovery hooks if your vehicle has them. If you do need to be towed out, see “Towing Your Vehicle” in the Index.

Your vehicle may be equipped with recovery hooks. The recovery hooks are provided at the front of your vehicle. You may need to use them if you’re stuck off-road and need to be pulled to some place where you can continue driving.

5-34

The recovery hooks, when used, are under a lot of force. Always pull the vehicle straight out. Never pull on the hooks at a sideways angle. The hooks could break off and you or others could be injured from the chain or cable snapping back.

NOTICE:

Never use the recovery hooks to tow the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged and it would not be covered by warranty.

5-35

NOTES

5-36

Section 6 Service and Appearance Care

We hope you’ll want to keep your GM vehicle all GM Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:

Here you will find information about the care of your vehicle. This section begins with service and fuel information, and then it shows how to check important fluid and lubricant levels. There is also technical information about your vehicle, and a part devoted to its appearance care. Service Your GM dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you’ll go to your dealer for all your service needs. You’ll get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people.

6-1

Doing Your Own Service W( If you want to do some of your own service work, you’ll want to get the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see “Service and Owner Publications” in the Index. Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see “Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped Vehicle” in the Index. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See “Maintenance Record” in the Index.

A CAUTION:

You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it. Be sure you have sufficient knowledge, experience, and the proper replacement parts and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task. Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts and other fasteners. “English” and 44metric” fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.

6-2

Fuel Use regular unleaded gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher. At a minimum, it should meet specifications ASTM D4814 in the United States and CGSB 3.5-M93 in Canada. Improved gasoline specifications have been developed by the American Automobile Manufacturers Association (AAMA) for better vehicle performance and engine protection. Gasolines meeting the AAMA specification could provide improved driveability and emission control system protection compared to other gasolines. Be sure the posted octane is at least 87. If the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If it’s bad enough, it can damage your engine. If you’re using fuel rated at 87 octane or higher and you still hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service. But don’t worry if you hear a little pinging noise when you’re accelerating or driving up a hill. That’s normal, and you don’t have to buy a higher octane fuel to get rid of pinging. It’s the heavy, constant knock that means you have a problem.

If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emission Standards (indicated on the underhood tune-up label), it is designed to operate og fuels that meet California specifications. If such fuels are not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp on your instrument panel may turn on and/or your vehicle may fail a smog-check test. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for diagnosis to determine the cause of failure. In the event it is determined that the cause of the condition is the type of fuels used, repairs ‘may not be covered by your warranty. In Canada, some gasolines contain an octane enhancing additive called MMT. If you see such fuels, your emission control system performance may deteriorate and the malfunction indicator lamp on your instrument panel may turn on. If this happens, return to your authorized GM dealer for service.

6-3

To .provide cleaner air, all gasolines are now required to contain additives that will help prevent deposits from forming in your engine and fuel system, allowing your emission control system to function properly. Therefore, you should not have to add anything to the fuel. In addition, gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in your area to help clean the air. General Motors recommends that you use these gasolines if they comply with the specifications described earlier.

NOTICE:

~~~

Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Don’t use it. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage wouldn’t be covered under your warranty.

Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving i n another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. To check on fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you’ll be driving. You can also write us at the following address for advice. Just tell us where you’re going and give your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN).

General Motors Overseas Distribution Corporation, North American Export Sales (NAES) 1908 Colonel Sam Drive Oshawa, Ontario L 1 H 8P7

Filling Your Tank

The fuel cap is behind a hinged door on the driver’s side of your vehicle.

JTION: -

Gasoline vapor is highly flammable. It burns violently, and that can cause very bad injuries. Don’t smoke if you’re near gasoline or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, flames and smoking materials away from gasoline.

To take off the cap, turn it slowly to the left (counterclockwise).

- 6-5

If you get gasoline on yourself and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. Gasoline can spray out on you if you open the fuel filler cap too quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel filler cap slowly and wait for any “hiss” noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.

Be careful not to spill gasoline. Clean gasoline from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See “Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle” in the Index.

When you put the cap back on, turn it to the right until you hear at least three clicks. Make sure you fully install the cap. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index.

NOTICE:

If you need a new cap, be sure to get the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit or have proper venting, and your fuel tank and emissions system might be damaged.

6-6

Checking Things Under the Hood

To open the hood, first pull the handle inside the vehicle on the lower driver's side of the instrument panel.

Then go to the front of the vehicle and release the secondary hood release.

Lift the hood, release the hood prop from its retainer and put the hood prop into the slot in the hood. You may have a l n n l ~ that cn'qes *n when you lift the hood.

'_* ,

. .

Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like gasoline, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.

6-7

When you lift the hood, you'll see these items:

A. Transmission Dipstick B. Engine Oil Fill C. Brake Master Cylinder D. Coolant Recovery Tank E. Engine Oil Dipstick 6-8

F. Power Steering Reservoir G. Battery H. Air Cleaner I. Windshield Washer Fluid

Checking Engine Oil Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or, cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.

Before closing the hood, be sure all the filler caps are on properly. Then lift the hood to relieve pressure on the hood prop. Remove the hood prop from the slot in the hood and return the prop to its retainer. Then just pull the hood down firmly to close. It will latch when dropped from 10 to12 inches (25 to 30 cm) without pressing on the hood. Engine Oil It’s a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.

The oil dipstick is a yellow ring. Turn off the engine and give the oil a few minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you don’t, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.

When to Add Oil If the oil is at or below the ADD line, then you’ll need to add some oil. But you must use the right kind. This part explains what kind of oil to use. For crankcase capacity, see “Capacities and Specifications” in the Index.

6-9

NOTICE:

. Don’t-add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged. Just fill i.t enough to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you’re through.

What Kind of Oil to Use Oils recommended for your vehicle can be identified by looking for the “Starburst” symbol. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API). Do not use any oil which does not carry this Starburst symbol.

If you change your own oil, be sure you use oil that has the Starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. If you have your oil changed for you, be sure the oil put into your engine is American Petroleum Institute certified for gasoline engines. You should also use the proper viscosity oil for your vehicle, as shown in the following chart:

6-10

RECOMMENDED SAE VISCOSITY GRADE ENGINE OILS

_____-~

.__..__._s_._.___

__

FOR BEST FUEL ECONOMY AND COLD STARTING, SELECT THE LOWEST SAL VISCOSITY GRADE OIL FOR THE EXPECTED TEN RATURE RANGE.

-~ -~

HOT

WEATHER

WOK

FOR THIS SYMBOL

COLD

WEATHER

DO NOT USE SAE 2OW-50 OR ANY OTHER GRADE OIL NOT RECOMMENDED

As shown in the chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. However, you can use SAE IOW-30 if it’s going to be 0°F (- 1 SOC) or above. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils, such as SAE 20W-50.

NOTICE:

Use only engine oil with the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines ‘(Starburst” symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty.

GM Goodwrench@ oil meets all the requirements for your vehicle. Engine Oil Additives Don’t add anything to your oil. Your GM dealer is ready to advise if you think something should be added.

6-1 1

When to Change Engine Oil See if any one of these is true for you:

Most trips are less than 5 to 10 miles (8 to 16 km), This is particularly important when outside temperatures are below freezing. Most trips include extensive idling (such as frequent driving in stop-and-go traffic). You operate your vehicle in dusty areas or off-road frequently. You frequently tow a trailer or use a carrier on top of your vehicle. The vehicle is used for delivery service, police, taxi or other commercial application.

Driving under these conditions causes engine oil to break down sooner. If any one of these is true for your vehicle, then you need to change your oil and filter every 3,000 miles (5 000 km) or 3 months -- whichever occurs first. If none of them is true, change the oil and filter every 7,500 miles (12 500 km) or 12 months -- whichever occurs first. Driving a vehicle with a fully warmed engine under highway conditions causes engine oil to break down slower.

6-12

Remote Oil Filter (Four-Wheel Drive) The access door for the remote oil filter is in the steering linkage shield assembly located under the radiator support. Twist the screw to unlock or lock the door. What to Do with Used Oil Did you know that used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer? Don’t let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly throw away clothing or rags containing used engine oil. (See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products.) Used oil can be a real threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all free-flowing oil from the filter before disposal. Don’t ever dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help.

Air Cleaner

A CAUTION:

Operating the engine with the air cleaner off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air, it stops flame backfires. If it isn’t there, and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Don’t drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner off.

if the engine

I NOTICE:

If the air cleaner is off, a backfire can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner in place when you’re driving.

6-13

To remove the air cleaner, remove the wing nuts that hold the cover on. Remove the cover and lift out the air filter. Insert a new air filter, then replace the air cleaner cover. Tighten the wing nuts to hold the cover in place. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to replace the air filter. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.

.. Automatic Transmission Fluid When to Check and Change A good time to check your automatic transmission fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change both the fluid and filter every 50,000 miles (83 000 km) if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions:

In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or higher.

0 In hilly or mountainous terrain.

When doing frequent trailer towing.

0 Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service. If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, the fluid and filter do not require changing. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index. How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at your GM dealer Service Department.

If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.

I NOTICE:

Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid.

Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission fluid level if you have been driving:

When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C). At high speed for quite a while. In heavy traffic -- especially in hot weather. While pulling a trailer.

To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C).

. 6-14

Checking Transmission Fluid T'3t Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). If it's colder than 50°F ( 10°C), drive the vehicle in DRIVE (D) until the engine temperature gage moves and then remains steady for 10 minutes. Then follow the hot check procedures.

Checking Transmission Fluid Cold A cold check is made after the vehicle has been sitting for eight hours or more with the engine off and is used only as a reference. Let the engine run at idle for five minutes if outside temperatures are 50°F (10°C) or more. If it's colder than 50°F (lO"C), you may have to idle the engine longer. Should the fluid level be low during a cold check, you must perform a hot check before adding fluid. This will give you a more accurate reading of the fluid level.

Checking the Fluid Hot or Cold 0 Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the

engine running.

0 With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever

in PARK (P).

0 With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P). Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more. Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:

1. Flip the handle up and then pull out the dipstick and

wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.

.,

. -

.. ,

, . .

6-15

2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and

then pull it back out again,

3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower level. The fluid level must be in the COLD area for a cold check or in the HOT area or cross-hatched area for a hot check.

4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the

dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.

How to Add Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transmission fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Add fluid only after checking the transmission fluid HOT. (A COLD check is used only as a reference.) If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level up to the HOT area for a hot check. It doesn’t take much fluid, generally less than a pint. Don ’t overfill. We recommend you use only fluid labeled DEXR0N’-111, because fluid with that label is made especially for your automatic transmission. Damage caused by fluid other than DEXRON@-I11 is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as described under “How to Check.” When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.

Manual Transmission Fluid When to Check A good time to have it checked is when the engine oil is changed. However, the fluid in your manual transmission doesn't require changing. How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at your GM dealer's Service Department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading.

I NOTICE:

I , Too much or too little fluid can dafnage your l transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid.

Check the fluid level only when your engine is off, the vehicle is parked on a level place and the transmission is cool enough for you to rest your fingers on the transmission case. Then, follow these steps:

1. Remove the filler plug. 2. Check that the lubricant level is up to the bottom of

the filler plug hole.

3. , If the fluid level is good, install the plug and be sure it is fully seated. If the fluid level is low, add more fluid as described in the next steps.

6-17

How to Check Lubricant

How to Check The proper fluid should be added if the level does not reach the bottom of the diaphragm when it’s in place in the reservoir. See the instructions on the reservoir cap. Rear Axle When to Check and Change Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.

If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.

6-19

How to Check Lubricant

If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.

What to Use ‘Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Four-wheel Drive and All-Wheel Drive Most lubricant checks in this section also apply to four-wheel-drive vehicles. However, they have two additional systems that need lubrication. Transfer Case When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to dererrnme how often to check the lubricant. See “Periodic Maintenance Inspections” in the Index.

6-20

How to Check Lubricant

What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Front Axle When to Check and Change Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.

If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. If the differential is at operating temperature (warm), add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. If the differential is cold, add enough lubricant to raise the level to 1/2 inch (12 mm) below the filler plug hole.

6-21

What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with new DEX-COOL TM (orange-colored, silicate-free) engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for 5 years or 100,000 miles (166 000 km), whichever occurs first. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see “Engine Overheating” in the Index. A 50/50 mixture of water and the proper coolant for your vehicle will: 0 Give freezing protection down to -34°F (-37 “C).

Give boiling protection up to 265 “F (129°C).

0 Protect against rust and corrosion.

Help keep the proper engine temperature.

0 Let the warning lights and gages work as they should.

NOTICE:

When adding coolant it is important that you use DEX-COOL TM (orange-colored, silicate-free) coolant meeting GM Specification 6277M. If silicated coolant is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator coolant will require change sooner -- at corrosion may result. In addition, the engine 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months whichever occurs first.

6-22

What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean water (preferably distilled) and one-half DEX-COOL TM (orange-,colored, silicate-free) antifreeze that meets GM Specification 6277M, which won’t damage aluminum parts. Use GM Engine Coolant Supplement (sealer) (GM Part No. 3634621) with any complete coolant change. If you use this mixture, you don’t need to add anything else.

Adding only plain water to your cooli,,g system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid like alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mix will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mix. With plain water or the wrong mix, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mix of clean water and DEX-COOL TM (orange-colored. silicate-free) antifreeze.

NOTICE:

If you use an improper coolant mix, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mix can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts.

If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system.

NOTICE:

If you use the proper coolant, you don’t have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful.

6-23

Checking Coolant

A CAUTION:

I--

lbrning the radiator pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. With the coolant recovery tank, you will almost never have to add coolant at the radiator.

Never turn the radiator pressure cap -- even a little -- when the engine and radiator are hot.

When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at ADD, or a little higher. When your engine is warm, the level should be up to FULL HOT, or a little higher.

Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper mix at the coolant recovery tank.

Add coolant mix at the recovery tank, but be careful not

to spill it. A CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.

6-24

’ Radiator Pressure Cap

NOTICE:

Your radiator cap is a 15 psi (105 kPa) pressure-type cap and must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss and possible engine damage from overheating. Be sure the arrows on the cap line up with the overflow tube on the radiator filler neck.

Thermostat Engine coolant temperature is controlled by a thermostat in the engine coolant system. The thermostat stops the flow of coolant through the radiator until the coolant reaches a preset temperature.

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Power Steering Fluid

When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.

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How To Check Power Steering Fluid When the engine compartment is cool, unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. Then remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on the dipstick. The level should be between the ADD and FULL marks. If necessary, add only enough fluid to bring the level up to the proper range. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals. Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing.

Adding Washer Fluid

NOTICE:

Open the cap labeled WASHER FLUID ONLY. Add washer fluid until the tank is full.

When using concentrated washer fluid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water. Don’t mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water doesn’t clean as well as washer fluid. Fill your washer fluid tank only 3/4 full when it’s very cold. This allows for expansion, which could damage the tank if it is completely full. Don’t use radiator antifreeze in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.

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Brakes Bra.ke Fluid

Your brake master cylinder reservoir is here. It is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid. There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is

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leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, si.nce a leak means that sooner or later your brakes won’t work well, or won’t work at all. So, it isn’t a good idea to “top off’ your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid won’t correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you’ll have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add (or remove) brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

I A CAUTION:

If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to check your brake fluid. See “Periodic Maintenance Inspections’’ in the Index.

Checking Brake Fluid

After work is done on the brake hydraulic system, make'sure the levels are above MIN and below the top of each window.

What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid -- such as Ddco Supreme 11 No. 1052535). Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only, and always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap before removing it.

(GM Part

You can check the brake fluid without taking off the cap. Just look at the windows on the brake fluid reservoir. The fluid levels should be above MIN. If they arenrt, have your brake system checked to see if there is a leak.

Wit ;he wrong kind of fluid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.

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NOTICE:

Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they’ll have to be replaced. Don’t let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See “Appearance Care’’ in the Index.

Brake Wear Your vehicle has front disc brakes and rear drum brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving (except when you are pushinq on the brake pedal firmly).

The brake wear warning sound means that sooner or later your brakes won’t work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.

NOTICE:

Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair.

Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Free movement of brake calipers and properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake calipers for movement, brake pads for wear, and evenly torque wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM Specifications. Your rear drum brakes don’t have wear indicators, but if you ever hear a rear brake rubbing noise, have the rear brake linings inspected. Also, the rear brake drums should be removed and inspected each time the tires are removed for rotation or changing. When you have the front brakes replaced, have the rear brakes inspected, too. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble.

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Brake Adjustment Every time you make a brake stop, your disc brakes adjust for wear. If your brake pedal goes down farther than normal, your rear drum brakes may need adjustment. Adjust them by backing up and firmly applying the brakes a few times. Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a modern vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Vehicles we design and test have top-quality GM brake parts in them, as your vehicle does when it is new. When you replace parts of your braking system -- for example, when your brake linings wear down and you have to have new ones put in -- be sure you get new genuine GM replacement parts. If you don’t, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change -- for the worse. The braking performance you’ve come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.

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Contact your dealer to learn how to prepare your vehicle for longer storage periods. Also, for your audio system, see “Theft-Deterrent Feature” in the Index. Bulb Replacement Before you replace any bulbs, be sure that all the lamps are off and the engine isn’t running. See “Replacement Bulbs” in the Index. Halogen Bulbs

I Q C A U T I O N : -7

Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.

Battery Every new vehicle has a Delco Freedom@ battery. You