2011 Chevrolet Avalanche Owners Manual

handling.

{ WARNING

Using bias-ply tires on the vehicle may cause the wheel rim flanges to develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail

(Continued)

suddenly and cause a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on the vehicle.

If you must replace the vehicle's tires with those that do not have a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating, and construction type (radial and bias‐belted tires) as the vehicle's original tires. Vehicles that have a tire pressure monitoring system may give an inaccurate low‐pressure warning if non‐TPC Spec-rated tires are installed on the vehicle. Non‐TPC Spec-rated tires may give a low‐pressure warning that is higher or lower than the proper warning level you would get with TPC Spec-rated tires. See Tire Pressure Monitor System on page 10‑58.

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Vehicle Care

The vehicle's original equipment tires are listed on the Tire and Loading Information label. See Vehicle Load Limits on page 9‑23
for more information about the Tire and Loading Information label and its location on the vehicle.

Different Size Tires and Wheels If wheels or tires are installed that are a different size than the original equipment wheels and tires, vehicle performance, including its braking, ride and handling characteristics, stability, and resistance to rollover may be affected. If the vehicle has electronic systems such as antilock brakes, rollover airbags, traction control, and electronic stability control, the performance of these systems can also be affected.

{ WARNING

If different sized wheels are used, there may not be an acceptable level of performance and safety if tires not recommended for those wheels are selected. This increases the chance of a crash and serious injury. Only use GM specific wheel and tire systems developed for the vehicle, and have them properly installed by a GM certified technician.

See Buying New Tires on page 10‑64 and Accessories and Modifications on page 10‑3 for additional information.

Uniform Tire Quality Grading Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum section width. For example:

Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA), which grades tires by treadwear, traction, and temperature performance. This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States. The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG) system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver, or temporary

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use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards. All Passenger Car Tires Must Conform to Federal Safety Requirements In Addition To These Grades.

Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test

course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1½) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and climate.

Traction – AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire's ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade

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assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics.

Temperature – A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire's resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Safety Standard No. 109.

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Vehicle Care

Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.

Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The tires and wheels were aligned and balanced at the factory to provide the longest tire life and best overall performance. Adjustments to wheel alignment and tire balancing will not be necessary on a regular basis. However, check the alignment if there is unusual tire wear or if the vehicle is pulling to one side or the other. If the vehicle

vibrates when driving on a smooth road, the tires and wheels might need to be rebalanced. See your dealer for proper diagnosis.

Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked, or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it. Some aluminum wheels can be repaired. See your dealer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer will know the kind of wheel that is needed. Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset, and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces. Replace wheels, wheel bolts, wheel nuts, or Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) sensors with new GM original equipment parts.

{ WARNING

Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts, or wheel nuts can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of the vehicle. Tires can lose air, and cause loss of control, causing a crash. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts for replacement.

Notice: The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance, and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis. See If a Tire Goes Flat on page 10‑70 for more information.

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WARNING (Continued)

or other vehicle parts. The area damaged by the tire chains could cause loss of control and a crash. Use another type of traction device only if its manufacturer recommends it for the vehicle's tire size combination and road conditions. Follow that manufacturer's instructions. To avoid vehicle damage, drive slow and readjust or remove the traction device if it is contacting the vehicle. Do not spin the wheels. If traction devices are used, install them on the rear tires.

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Notice: If the vehicle has P265/ 70R17 size tires, use tire chains only where legal and only when necessary. Use chains that are the proper size for the tires. Install them on the rear tires only. Do not use chains on the front tires. Tighten them as tightly as possible with the ends securely fastened. Drive slowly and follow the chain manufacturer's instructions. If the chains contact the vehicle, stop and retighten them. If the contact continues, slow down until it stops. Driving too fast or spinning the wheels with chains on will damage the vehicle.

Used Replacement Wheels

{ WARNING

Replacing a wheel with a used one is dangerous. How it has been used or how far it has been driven may be unknown. It could fail suddenly and cause a crash. When replacing wheels, use a new GM original equipment wheel.

Tire Chains

{ WARNING

If the vehicle has P265/65R18 or P275/55R20 size tires, do not use tire chains. There is not enough clearance. Tire chains used on a vehicle without the proper amount of clearance can cause damage to the brakes, suspension,

(Continued)

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Vehicle Care

If a Tire Goes Flat It is unusual for a tire to blowout while you are driving, especially if you maintain your vehicle's tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it is much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a blowout, here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the flat tire creates a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop, well off the road, if possible. A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you would use in a skid. In any rear blowout remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may

be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop, well off the road, if possible.

{ WARNING

Driving on a flat tire will cause permanent damage to the tire. Re-inflating a tire after it has been driven on while severely underinflated or flat may cause a blowout and a serious crash. Never attempt to re-inflate a tire that has been driven on while severely underinflated or flat. Have your dealer or an authorized tire service center repair or replace the flat tire as soon as possible.

{ WARNING Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do maintenance or repairs is dangerous without the appropriate safety equipment and training. If a jack is provided with the vehicle, it is designed only for changing a flat tire. If it is used for anything else, you or others could be badly injured or killed if the vehicle slips off the jack. If a jack is provided with the vehicle, only use it for changing a flat tire.

If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place, well off the road, if possible. Turn on the hazard warning flashers. See Hazard Warning Flashers on page 6‑5.

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A. Wheel Block B. Flat Tire The following information explains how to use the jack and change a tire.

{ WARNING

Changing a tire can be dangerous. The vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over or fall on you or other people. You and they could be badly injured or even killed. Find a level place to change your tire. To help prevent the vehicle from moving:

1. Set the parking brake firmly. 2. Put the shift lever in

3.

P (Park). If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle with a N (Neutral) transfer case position, be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear — not in N (Neutral).

(Continued)

WARNING (Continued)

4. Turn off the engine and do not restart while the vehicle is raised.

5. Do not allow passengers to

remain in the vehicle.

6. Put the wheel blocks at the

front and rear of the tire farthest away from the one being changed. That would be the tire on the other side, at the opposite end of the vehicle.

When the vehicle has a flat tire (B), use the following example as a guide to assist you in the placement of wheel blocks (A).

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3. Remove the wheel blocks (A)

attached to the jack (E) by turning the wing nut (C) counterclockwise. Place the wheel blocks where needed as indicated in previously in this section.

The tools for changing a flat tire are located in the passenger side top-box storage unit.

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Vehicle Care

Tire Changing

Removing the Spare Tire and Tools The jack and the wheel blocks are located under a cover near the passenger side rear seat.

A. Wheel Blocks B. Jack Knob C. Wing Nut D. Retaining Hook E. Jack F. Mounting Bracket

2. Release the jack (E) from the

mounting bracket (F) by turning the jack knob (B) on the jack counterclockwise to release the jack from the mounting bracket.

Rear Seat (Passenger Side) Jack

Cover

1. Remove the jack cover by turning the two wing nuts one-quarter turn counterclockwise and pulling the jack cover off.

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Jack Handle Extension(s)

I. J. Spare Tire Lock 1. Open the hoist shaft access

cover on the bumper to access the spare tire lock (J).

2. To remove the spare tire lock,

insert the ignition key, turn it clockwise and pull it straight out.

To access the spare tire:

To remove the tools, do the following: 1. Open the top door on the

passenger side top-box storage unit. Use the ignition/door key to unlock it if it is locked. See Top-Box Storage on page 4‑2 for more information.

2. Remove the black pouch from

the storage box. You now have all of the tools you will need to lower the spare tire and change a flat.

A. Spare Tire (Valve Stem

Pointed Down) B. Hoist Assembly C. Hoist Cable D. Tire/Wheel Retainer E. Hoist Shaft F. Hoist End of Extension Tool G. Hoist Shaft Access Hole H. Wheel Wrench

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Vehicle Care

5. Turn the wheel wrench

counterclockwise to lower the spare tire to the ground. Continue to turn the wheel wrench until the spare tire can be pulled out from under the vehicle. If the spare tire does not lower to the ground, the secondary latch is engaged causing the tire not to lower. See Secondary Latch System on page 10‑83 for more information.

3. Assemble the two jack handle

4.

extensions (I) and wheel wrench (H) as shown.

Insert the open end of the extension (F) through the hole in the rear bumper (G) (hoist shaft access hole). Be sure the hoist end (F) of the extension connects to the hoist shaft (E). The ribbed square end of the extension is used to lower the spare tire. Do not use the chiseled end of the wheel wrench.

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Separate the retainer from the guide pin by sliding the retainer up the pin while pressing down on the latch. When the retainer is separated from the guide pin, tilt the retainer and pull it through the center of the wheel along with the cable and guide pin.

8. Put the spare tire near the

flat tire.

6. Use the wheel wrench hook that allows you to pull the hoist cable towards you, to assist in reaching the spare tire.

7. Tilt the tire with slack in the

cable to access the tire/wheel retainer (D).

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Vehicle Care

Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire

A. Jack B. Wheel Blocks C. Jack Handle D. Jack Handle Extensions E. Wheel Wrench 1. Do a safety check before

proceeding. See If a Tire Goes Flat on page 10‑70 for more information.

2. To remove the center cap, place

the chiseled end of the wheel wrench in the slot on the wheel and gently pry the cap out.

3. Use the wheel wrench to loosen

all the wheel nuts. Turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise to loosen the wheel nuts. Do not remove the wheel nuts yet.

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{ WARNING

{ WARNING

Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack, you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack.

Raising the vehicle with the jack improperly positioned can damage the vehicle and even make the vehicle fall. To help avoid personal injury and vehicle damage, be sure to fit the jack lift head into the proper location before raising the vehicle.

4. Position the jack under the

vehicle as shown.

Jacking Locations (Overall View)

A. Front Position B. Rear Position

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Vehicle Care

enough off the ground so there is enough room for the spare tire to clear the ground.

vehicle far enough off the ground so there is enough room for the spare tire to clear the ground.

Front Position

Front Tire Flat: If the flat tire is on a front tire of the vehicle, you will need to use the jack handle and only one jack handle extension. Attach the wheel wrench to the jack handle extension. Attach the jack handle to the jack (A). Position the jack on the frame behind the flat tire near the front body mount, as shown. Turn the wheel wrench clockwise to raise the vehicle. Raise the vehicle far

Rear Position

Rear Tire Flat: If the flat tire is on a rear tire of the vehicle, use the jack handle (B) and both jack handle extensions (C). Attach the wheel wrench (D) to the jack handle extensions (C). Attach the jack handle (B) to the jack (A). Use the jacking pad (E) provided on the rear axle. Turn the wheel wrench (D) clockwise to raise the vehicle. Raise the

5. Remove all the wheel nuts. 6. Take off the flat tire.

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{ WARNING

Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When changing a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if needed, to get all the rust or dirt off. See If a Tire Goes Flat on page 10‑70.

7. Remove any rust or dirt from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces, and spare wheel. Install the spare tire.

8.

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{ WARNING

Never use oil or grease on bolts or nuts because the nuts might come loose. The vehicle's wheel could fall off, causing a crash.

9. Put the wheel nuts back on with

the rounded end of the nuts toward the wheel after mounting the spare tire.

10. Tighten each wheel nut by hand. Then use the wheel wrench to tighten the wheel nuts until the wheel is held against the hub.

11. Turn the wheel wrench

counterclockwise to lower the vehicle. Lower the jack completely.

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Vehicle Care

{ WARNING

Wheel nuts that are improperly or incorrectly tightened can cause the wheels to become loose or come off. The wheel nuts should be tightened with a torque wrench to the proper torque specification after replacing. Follow the torque specification supplied by the aftermarket manufacturer when using accessory locking wheel nuts. See Capacities and Specifications on page 12‑2 for original equipment wheel nut torque specifications.

Notice: Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque specification. See Capacities and Specifications on page 12‑2 for the wheel nut torque specification.

Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools

{ WARNING

Storing a jack, a tire, or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place.

Notice: Storing an aluminum wheel with a flat tire under your vehicle for an extended period of time or with the valve stem pointing up can damage the wheel. Always stow the wheel with the valve stem pointing down and have the wheel/tire repaired as soon as possible. Store the tire under the rear of the vehicle in the spare tire carrier.

12. Tighten the nuts firmly in a

crisscross sequence as shown by turning the wheel wrench clockwise.

When you reinstall the regular wheel and tire, you must also reinstall the center cap. Line the tab on the back of the tab with the slot in the wheel. Place the cap on the wheel and press until it snaps into place.

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Jack Handle Extension(s)

I. J. Spare Tire Lock 1. Put the tire on the ground at the rear of the vehicle with the valve stem pointed down, and to the rear.

2. Tilt the tire. Separate the tire/ wheel retainer from the guide pin. Pull the pin through the center of the wheel. Tilt the retainer down through the center wheel opening.

A. Spare Tire/Flat Tire (Valve Stem

Pointed Down) B. Hoist Assembly C. Hoist Cable D. Tire/Wheel Retainer E. Hoist Shaft F. Hoist End of Extension Tool G. Hoist Shaft Access Hole H. Wheel Wrench

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Vehicle Care

3. Assemble the two jack handle

4.

extensions (I) and wheel wrench (H) as shown.

Insert the open end of the extension (F) through the hole in the rear bumper (G) (hoist shaft access hole).

5. Raise the tire part way upward.

Make sure the retainer is fully seated across the underside of the wheel and is centered in the wheel opening.

6. Raise the tire fully against the

underside of the vehicle by turning the wheel wrench clockwise until you hear two clicks or feel it skip twice. You cannot overtighten the cable.

7. Make sure the tire is stored

securely. Push, pull (A), and then try to turn (B) the tire. If the tire moves, use the wheel wrench to tighten the cable.

8. Reinstall the spare tire lock. 9. Close the hoist shaft access

cover.

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To store the tools, follow these steps: 1. Return the tools to the tool bag and place it back in the top‐box storage unit.

2. Assemble the wheel blocks and

jack together with the wing nut by reversing Step 2 under “Removing the Spare Tire and Tools.”

3. Replace the jack cover and

tighten the jack-cover wing nuts.

Secondary Latch System This vehicle has an underbody-mounted tire hoist assembly equipped with a secondary latch system. It is designed to stop the spare tire from suddenly falling off your vehicle. For the secondary latch to work, the spare must be installed with the valve stem pointing down. See “Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools” under Tire Changing on page 10‑72.

{ WARNING

Before beginning this procedure read all the instructions. Failure to read and follow the instructions could damage the hoist assembly and you and others could get hurt. Read and follow the instructions listed next.

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To release the spare tire from the secondary latch:

1. Check under the vehicle to see if

2.

the cable end is visible. If the cable is not visible proceed to Step 6. If it is visible, first try to tighten the cable by turning the wheel wrench clockwise until you hear two clicks or feel it skip twice. You cannot overtighten the cable.

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Vehicle Care

3. Loosen the cable by turning the wrench counterclockwise three or four turns.

4. Repeat this procedure at least

two times. If the spare tire lowers to the ground, continue with Step 5 under “Removing the Spare Tire and Tools” under Tire Changing on page 10‑72. If the spare does not lower, turn the wrench counterclockwise until approximately 15 cm (6 in) of cable is exposed.

5.

6. Stand the wheel blocks on their

shortest ends, with the backs facing each other.

7. Place the bottom edge of the

8. Attach the jack handle,

jack (A) on the wheel blocks (B), separating them so that the jack is balanced securely.

extension, and wheel wrench to the jack and place it (with the wheel blocks) under the vehicle toward the front of the rear bumper.

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If the spare tire is hanging from the cable, insert the hoist end of extension, and wheel wrench into the hoist shaft hole in the bumper and turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise to lower the spare the rest of the way.

14. Turn the wheel wrench in the hoist shaft hole in the bumper clockwise to raise the cable back up if the cable is hanging under the vehicle.

Have the hoist assembly inspected as soon as you can. You will not be able to store a spare or flat tire using the hoist assembly until it has been inspected and/or replaced. To continue changing the flat tire, see “Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire” under Tire Changing on page 10‑72.

12. Lower the jack by turning

the wheel wrench counterclockwise. Keep lowering the jack until the spare tire slides off the jack or is hanging by the cable.

{ WARNING

Someone standing too close during the procedure could be injured by the jack. If the spare tire does not slide off the jack completely, make sure no one is behind you or on either side of you as you pull the jack out from under the spare.

13. Disconnect the jack handle from the jack and carefully remove the jack. Use one hand to push against the spare while firmly pulling the jack out from under the spare tire with the other hand.

9. Position the center lift point of

the jack under the center of the spare tire.

10. Turn the wrench clockwise to

raise the jack until it lifts the end fitting.

11. Continue raising the jack until

the spare tire stops moving upward and is held firmly in place. The secondary latch has released and the spare tire is balancing on the jack.

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Vehicle Care

Full-Size Spare Tire Your vehicle, when new, had a fully-inflated spare tire. A spare tire may lose air over time, so check its inflation pressure regularly. See Tire Pressure on page 10‑56 and Vehicle Load Limits on page 9‑23
for information regarding proper tire inflation and loading your vehicle. For instruction on how to remove, install or store a spare tire, see “Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare” and “Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools” under Tire Changing on page 10‑72. Notice: If the vehicle has four-wheel drive and the different size spare tire is installed on the vehicle, do not drive in four-wheel drive until you can have your flat tire repaired and/or replaced. You could damage the vehicle, and the repair costs would not be covered by your warranty. Never use four-wheel drive when the different size spare tire is installed on the vehicle.

Your vehicle may have a different size spare tire than the road tires originally installed on your vehicle. This spare tire was developed for use on your vehicle, so it is all right to drive on it. If your vehicle has four-wheel drive and the different size spare tire is installed, keep the vehicle in two-wheel drive. After installing the spare tire on your vehicle, you should stop as soon as possible and make sure the spare tire is correctly inflated. Have the damaged or flat road tire repaired or replaced as soon as you can and installed back onto your vehicle. This way, the spare tire will be available in case you need it again. Do not mix tires and wheels of different sizes, because they will not fit. Keep your spare tire and its wheel together. If your vehicle has a spare tire that does not match your vehicle's original road tires and wheels in size and type, do not include the spare in the tire rotation.

Jump Starting For more information about the vehicle battery, see Battery on page 10‑30. If the vehicle's battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely.

{ WARNING

Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:

. They contain acid that can

burn you.

. They contain gas that can

explode or ignite.

. They contain enough electricity to burn you.

If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.

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Notice: Ignoring these steps could result in costly damage to the vehicle that would not be covered by the warranty. Trying to start the vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage the vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must

have a 12-volt battery with a negative ground system.

Notice: Only use a vehicle that has a 12-volt system with a negative ground for jump starting. If the other vehicle does not have a 12-volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. 2. Get the vehicles close enough

so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your

vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put the automatic transmission in P (Park) or a manual transmission in Neutral before setting the parking brake. If the vehicle has a transfer case with a N (Neutral) position, be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear, not in N (Neutral).

Notice: If the radio or other accessories are left on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by the warranty. Always turn off the radio and other accessories when jump starting the vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both

vehicles. Unplug unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or the accessory

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power outlets. Turn off the radio and all the lamps that are not needed. This avoids sparks and helps save both batteries. And it could save the radio!

4. Open the hood on the other

vehicle and locate the positive (+) and negative (−) terminal locations on that vehicle. Your vehicle has a remote positive (+) jump starting terminal and a remote negative (−) jump starting terminal. You should always use these remote terminals instead of the terminals on the battery. If the vehicle has a remote positive (+) terminal, it is located under a red plastic cover at the positive battery post. To uncover the remote positive (+) terminal, open the red plastic cover.

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Vehicle Care

{ WARNING

An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

{ WARNING

Using an open flame near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, (Continued)

WARNING (Continued)

add water to take care of that first. If you do not, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.

{ WARNING

Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.

The remote negative (-) terminal is a stud located on the right front of the engine, where the negative battery cable attaches. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 10‑6 for more information on the location of the remote positive (+) and remote negative (−) terminals.

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5. Check that the jumper cables do

not have loose or missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks.

6. Connect the red positive (+)

cable to the positive (+) terminal of the vehicle with the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

7. Do not let the other end touch

metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

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8. Now connect the black

negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to the remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.

9. Connect the other end of the

negative (−) cable to the remote negative (−) terminal, on the vehicle with the dead battery.

10. Now start the vehicle with the

good battery and run the engine for a while.

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Vehicle Care

11. Try to start the vehicle that had

the dead battery. If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service.

Notice: If the jumper cables are connected or removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Always connect and remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal.

To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles do the following: 1. Disconnect the black

negative (−) cable from the vehicle that had the bad battery.

2. Disconnect the black

negative (−) cable from the vehicle with the good battery.

3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the vehicle with the good battery.

4. Disconnect the red positive (+)

cable from the other vehicle.

5. Return the remote positive (+)

terminal cover, if the vehicle has one, to its original position.

Jumper Cable Removal

A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine

Part or Remote Negative (−) Terminal

B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and Remote Negative (−) Terminals

C. Dead Battery or Remote

Positive (+) Terminal

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Towing

Towing the Vehicle Notice: To avoid damage, the disabled vehicle should be towed with all four wheels off the ground. Care must be taken with vehicles that have low ground clearance and/or special equipment. Always flatbed on a car carrier. Consult your dealer or a professional towing service if the disabled vehicle must be towed. See Roadside Assistance Program (U.S. and Canada) on page 13‑8 or Roadside Assistance Program (Mexico) on page 13‑10. To tow the vehicle behind another vehicle for recreational purposes, such as behind a motor home, see “Recreational Vehicle Towing” in this section.

Recreational Vehicle Towing Recreational vehicle towing means towing the vehicle behind another vehicle – such as behind a motorhome. The two most common types of recreational vehicle towing are known as dinghy towing and dolly towing. Dinghy towing is towing the vehicle with all four wheels on the ground. Dolly towing is towing the vehicle with two wheels on the ground and two wheels up on a device known as a dolly. Here are some important things to consider before recreational vehicle towing: . What is the towing capacity of the towing vehicle? Be sure to read the tow vehicle manufacturer's recommendations.

. What is the distance that will be travelled? Some vehicles have restrictions on how far and how long they can tow. Is the proper towing equipment going to be used? See your dealer or trailering professional for additional advice and equipment recommendations. Is the vehicle ready to be towed? Just as preparing the vehicle for a long trip, make sure the vehicle is prepared to be towed. See Before Leaving on a Long Trip.

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Vehicle Care

Dinghy Towing

Two-Wheel-Drive Vehicles and Four-Wheel Drive Vehicles with a Single Speed Automatic Transfer Case

Notice: If the vehicle is towed with all four wheels on the ground, the drivetrain components could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Do not tow the vehicle with all four wheels on the ground.

Four-Wheel Drive Vehicles with a Two Speed Automatic Transfer Case

Two-wheel-drive vehicles and four-wheel drive vehicles with a single speed automatic transfer case should not be towed with all four wheels on the ground. Two-wheel-drive transmissions have no provisions for internal lubrication while being towed. Four-wheel drive vehicles with a single speed automatic transfer case have no neutral position and will spin the transmission when the rear wheels turn.

Use the following procedure to dinghy tow a four-wheel drive vehicle with a two speed automatic transfer case: 1. Position the vehicle being towed behind the tow vehicle and shift the transmission to P (Park).

2. Turn the engine off and firmly set

the parking brake.

3. Securely attach the vehicle

being towed to the tow vehicle.

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{ WARNING Shifting a four-wheel-drive vehicle's transfer case into N (Neutral) can cause the vehicle to roll even if the transmission is in P (Park). The driver or others could be injured. Make sure the parking brake is firmly set before the transfer case is shifted to N (Neutral).

4. Shift the transfer case to

N (Neutral). See “Shifting into Neutral” under “Four-Wheel Drive” for the proper procedure to select the Neutral position for the vehicle.

5. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle being towed is firmly attached to the towing vehicle.

6. Turn the ignition to LOCK/OFF

and remove the key — the steering wheel will still turn.

After towing, see “Shifting Out of Neutral” under “Four-Wheel Drive” for the proper procedure to take the vehicle out of the Neutral position. Dolly Towing

Front Towing (Front Wheels Off the Ground) – Two-Wheel-Drive Vehicles and Four-Wheel Drive Vehicles with a Single Speed Automatic Transfer Case

Notice: If a two-wheel drive vehicle or a four-wheel drive vehicle with a single speed automatic transfer case is towed

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with the rear wheels on the ground, the transmission could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Never tow the vehicle with the rear wheels on the ground. Two-wheel-drive vehicles and four-wheel drive vehicles with a single speed automatic transfer case should not be towed with the rear wheels on the ground. Two-wheel-drive transmissions have no provisions for internal lubrication while being towed. Four-wheel drive vehicles with a single speed automatic transfer case have no neutral position and will spin the transmission when the rear wheels turn. To dolly tow a two‐wheel‐drive vehicle or a four-wheel drive vehicle with a single speed automatic transfer case, the vehicle must be towed with the rear wheels on the dolly. See “Rear Towing (Rear Wheels Off the Ground)” later in this section for more information.

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Vehicle Care

Four-Wheel Drive Vehicles with a Two Speed Automatic Transfer Case

3. Shift the transmission to

P (Park).

4. Firmly set the parking brake.

{ WARNING Shifting a four-wheel-drive vehicle's transfer case into N (Neutral) can cause the vehicle to roll even if the transmission is in P (Park). The driver or others could be injured. Make sure the parking brake is firmly set before the transfer case is shifted to N (Neutral).

5. Shift the transfer case to

N (Neutral). See “Shifting into N (Neutral)” under “Four-Wheel Drive”.

Use the following procedure to dolly tow a four-wheel drive vehicle from the front: 1. Attach the dolly to the tow vehicle following the dolly manufacturer's instructions.

2. Drive the front wheels onto the

dolly.

6. Secure the vehicle to the dolly

following the manufacturer's instructions.

7. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle being towed is firmly attached to the towing vehicle.

8. Turn the ignition to LOCK/OFF. After towing, see “Shifting Out of N (Neutral)” under “Four-Wheel Drive”.

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3. Firmly set the parking brake.

See Parking Brake on page 9‑51.

4. Put the transmission in P (Park). 5. Secure the vehicle to the dolly

following the manufacturer's instructions.

6. Use an adequate clamping

device designed for towing to ensure that the front wheels are locked into the straight position.

7. For four-wheel drive vehicles with a single speed automatic transfer case, turn the transfer case knob to the Two-Wheel High position.

8. Turn the ignition to LOCK/OFF.

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Four-Wheel Drive Vehicles with a Two Speed Automatic Transfer Case Use the following procedure to dolly tow a four-wheel drive vehicle from the rear: 1. Attach the dolly to the tow vehicle following the dolly manufacturer's instructions.

2. Drive the rear wheels onto the

dolly.

3. Firmly set the parking brake.

See Parking Brake on page 9‑51.

4. Put the transmission in P (Park). 5. Secure the vehicle to the dolly

following the manufacturer's instructions.

Rear Towing (Rear Wheels Off the Ground)

Two-Wheel-Drive Vehicles and Four-Wheel Drive Vehicles with a Single Speed Automatic Transfer Case Use the following procedure to dolly tow the vehicle from the rear: 1. Attach the dolly to the tow vehicle following the dolly manufacturer's instructions.

2. Drive the rear wheels onto the

dolly.

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Vehicle Care

6. Use an adequate clamping

device designed for towing to ensure that the front wheels are locked into the straight position.

{ WARNING Shifting a four-wheel-drive vehicle's transfer case into N (Neutral) can cause the vehicle to roll even if the transmission is in P (Park). The driver or others could be injured. Make sure the parking brake is firmly set before the transfer case is shifted to N (Neutral).

7. Shift the transfer case to

N (Neutral). See “Shifting into N (Neutral)” under “Four-Wheel Drive”.

8. Turn the ignition to LOCK/OFF. After towing, see “Shifting Out of N (Neutral)” under “Four-Wheel Drive”.

Appearance Care

Exterior Care Silicone grease on weatherstrips will make them last longer, seal better, and not stick or squeak. Apply silicone grease with a clean cloth. During very cold, damp weather frequent application may be required. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 11‑7. Washing the Vehicle The best way to preserve the vehicle's finish is to keep it clean by washing it often. Notice: Certain cleaners contain chemicals that can damage the emblems or nameplates on the vehicle. Check the cleaning product label. If it states that it should not be used on plastic parts, do not use it on the vehicle or damage may occur and it would not be covered by the warranty.

Do not wash the vehicle in direct sunlight. Use a car washing soap. Do not use cleaning agents that are petroleum based or that contain acid or abrasives, as they can damage the paint, metal or plastic on the vehicle. Approved cleaning products can be obtained from your dealer. Follow all manufacturers' directions regarding correct product usage, necessary safety precautions and appropriate disposal of any vehicle care product. Rinse the vehicle well, before washing and after to remove all cleaning agents completely. If they are allowed to dry on the surface, they could stain. Dry the finish with a soft, clean chamois or an all-cotton towel to avoid surface scratches and water spotting.

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High pressure car washes may cause water to enter the vehicle. Avoid using high pressure washes closer than 30 cm (12 in) to the surface of the vehicle. Use of power washers exceeding 8 274 kPa (1,200 psi) can result in damage or removal of paint and decals. Cleaning Exterior Lamps/ Lenses Use only lukewarm or cold water, a soft cloth and a car washing soap to clean exterior lamps and lenses. Follow instructions under “Washing the Vehicle”. Finish Care Occasional waxing or mild polishing of the vehicle by hand may be necessary to remove residue from the paint finish. Approved cleaning products can be obtained from your dealer.

If the vehicle has a basecoat/ clearcoat paint finish, the clearcoat gives more depth and gloss to the colored basecoat. Always use waxes and polishes that are non-abrasive and made for a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish. Notice: Machine compounding or aggressive polishing on a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish may damage it. Use only non-abrasive waxes and polishes that are made for a basecoat/ clearcoat paint finish on the vehicle. Foreign materials such as calcium chloride and other salts, ice melting agents, road oil and tar, tree sap, bird droppings, chemicals from industrial chimneys, etc., can damage the vehicle's finish if they remain on painted surfaces. Wash the vehicle as soon as possible. If necessary, use non-abrasive cleaners that are marked safe for painted surfaces to remove foreign matter.

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Exterior painted surfaces are subject to aging, weather and chemical fallout that can take their toll over a period of years. To help keep the paint finish looking new, keep the vehicle garaged or covered whenever possible.

Protecting Exterior Bright Metal Parts Bright metal parts should be cleaned regularly to keep their luster. Washing with water is all that is usually needed. However, chrome polish may be used on chrome or stainless steel trim, if necessary. Use special care with aluminum trim. To avoid damaging protective trim, never use auto or chrome polish, steam or caustic soap to clean aluminum. A coating of wax, rubbed to high polish, is recommended for all bright metal parts.

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Vehicle Care

Windshield and Wiper Blades Clean the outside of the windshield with glass cleaner. Clean the rubber blades using a lint free cloth or paper towel soaked with windshield washer fluid or a mild detergent. Wash the windshield thoroughly when cleaning the blades. Bugs, road grime, sap and a buildup of vehicle wash/wax treatments may cause wiper streaking. Replace the wiper blades if they are worn or damaged. Wipers can be damaged by: . Extreme dusty conditions . Sand and salt . Heat and sun . Snow and ice, without proper

removal

Aluminum or Chrome-Plated Wheels and Trim The vehicle may have either aluminum or chrome-plated wheels. Keep the wheels clean using a soft clean cloth with mild soap and water. Rinse with clean water. After rinsing thoroughly, dry with a soft clean towel. A wax may then be applied. Notice: Chrome wheels and other chrome trim may be damaged if the vehicle is not washed after driving on roads that have been sprayed with magnesium, calcium or sodium chloride. These chlorides are used on roads for conditions such as ice and dust. Always wash the vehicle's chrome with soap and water after exposure. Notice: Using strong soaps, chemicals, abrasive polishes, cleaners, brushes, or cleaners that contain acid on aluminum or chrome-plated wheels, could damage the surface of the

wheel(s). The repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Use only approved cleaners on aluminum or chrome-plated wheels. The surface of these wheels is similar to the painted surface of the vehicle. Do not use strong soaps, chemicals, abrasive polishes, abrasive cleaners, cleaners with acid, or abrasive cleaning brushes on them because they could damage the surface. Do not use chrome polish on aluminum wheels. Notice: Using chrome polish on aluminum wheels could damage the wheels. The repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Use chrome polish on chrome wheels only. Use chrome polish only on chrome-plated wheels, but avoid any painted surface of the wheel, and buff off immediately after application.

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Chemicals used for ice and snow removal and dust control can collect on the underbody. If these are not removed, corrosion and rust can develop on the underbody parts such as fuel lines, frame, floor pan, and exhaust system even though they have corrosion protection. At least every spring, flush these materials from the underbody with plain water. Clean any areas where mud and debris can collect. Dirt packed in close areas of the frame should be loosened before being flushed. Your dealer or an underbody car washing system can do this.

Notice: Driving the vehicle through an automatic car wash that has silicone carbide tire cleaning brushes, could damage the aluminum or chrome-plated wheels. The repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Never drive a vehicle that has aluminum or chrome-plated wheels through an automatic car wash that uses silicone carbide tire cleaning brushes. Tires To clean the tires, use a stiff brush with tire cleaner. Notice: Using petroleum-based tire dressing products on the vehicle may damage the paint finish and/or tires. When applying a tire dressing, always wipe off any overspray from all painted surfaces on the vehicle.

Sheet Metal Damage If the vehicle is damaged and requires sheet metal repair or replacement, make sure the body repair shop applies anti-corrosion material to parts repaired or replaced to restore corrosion protection. Original manufacturer replacement parts will provide the corrosion protection while maintaining the vehicle warranty. Finish Damage Any stone chips, fractures or deep scratches in the finish should be repaired right away. Bare metal will corrode quickly and may develop into major repair expense. Minor chips and scratches can be repaired with touch-up materials available from your dealer. Larger areas of finish damage can be corrected in your dealer's body and paint shop.

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Vehicle Care

Underbody Maintenance Chemicals used for ice and snow removal and dust control can collect on the underbody. If these are not removed, corrosion and rust can develop on the underbody parts such as fuel lines, frame, floor pan, and exhaust system even though they have corrosion protection. At least every spring, flush these materials from the underbody with plain water. Clean any areas where mud and debris can collect. Dirt packed in close areas of the frame should be loosened before being flushed. Your dealer or an underbody car washing system can do this. Chemical Paint Spotting Some weather and atmospheric conditions can create a chemical fallout. Airborne pollutants can fall upon and attack painted surfaces on the vehicle. This damage can take two forms: blotchy, ring-shaped

discolorations, and small, irregular dark spots etched into the paint surface. Although no defect in the paint job causes this, we will repair, at no charge to the owner, the surfaces of new vehicles damaged by this fallout condition within 12 months or 20 000 km (12,000 mi) of purchase, whichever occurs first.

Interior Care The interior will continue to look its best if it is cleaned often. Dust and dirt can accumulate on the upholstery and cause damage to the carpet, fabric, leather, and plastic surfaces. Stains should be removed quickly as extreme heat could cause them to set rapidly. Lighter colored interiors may require more frequent cleaning. Newspapers and garments that can transfer color to home furnishings can also transfer color to the interior.

Remove dust from small buttons and knobs with a small brush with soft bristles. Your dealer has products for cleaning the interior. When cleaning the interior, only use cleaners specifically designed for the surfaces that are being cleaned. Permanent damage can result from using cleaners on surfaces for which they were not intended. Apply the cleaner directly to the cleaning cloth to prevent over-spray. Remove any accidental over-spray from other surfaces immediately. Notice: Using abrasive cleaners when cleaning glass surfaces on the vehicle, could scratch the glass and/or cause damage to the rear window defogger. When cleaning the glass on the vehicle, use only a soft cloth and glass cleaner.

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Cleaners can contain solvents that can become concentrated in the interior. Before using cleaners, read and adhere to all safety instructions on the label. While cleaning the interior, maintain adequate ventilation by opening the doors and windows. Do not clean the interior using the following cleaners or techniques: . Never use a knife or any other

sharp object to remove a soil from any interior surface.

. Never use a stiff brush. It can cause damage to the interior surfaces.

. Never apply heavy pressure or

rub aggressively with a cleaning cloth. Use of heavy pressure can damage the interior and does not improve the effectiveness of soil removal.

. Use only mild, neutral-pH soaps.

Avoid laundry detergents or dishwashing soaps with degreasers. Using too much soap will leave a residue that leaves streaks and attracts dirt. For liquid cleaners, about 20 drops per 3.78 L (1 gal) of water is a good guide.

. Do not heavily saturate the upholstery while cleaning.

. Cleaners that contain solvents

can damage the interior.

Fabric/Carpet Use a vacuum cleaner with a soft brush attachment to remove dust and loose dirt. A canister vacuum with a beater bar in the nozzle may only be used on floor carpet and carpeted floor mats. For soils, always try to remove them first with plain water or club soda. Before

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cleaning, gently remove as much of the soil as possible using one of the following techniques:

For liquids: gently blot the remaining soil with a paper towel. Allow the soil to absorb into the paper towel until no more can be removed. For solid dry soils: remove as much as possible and then vacuum.

To clean: 1. Saturate a lint-free, clean white

cloth with water or club soda.

2. Remove excess moisture. 3. Start on the outside edge of the

soil and gently rub toward the center. Continue cleaning, using a clean area of the cloth each time it becomes soiled.

4. Continue to gently rub the

soiled area.

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Vehicle Care

5.

If the soil is not completely removed, use a mild soap solution and repeat the cleaning process that was used with plain water.

If any of the soil remains, a commercial fabric cleaner or spot lifter may be necessary. Test a small hidden area for colorfastness before using a commercial upholstery cleaner or spot lifter. If the locally cleaned area gives any impression that a ring formation may result, clean the entire surface. A paper towel can be used to blot excess moisture from the fabric or carpet after the cleaning process. Leather/Leatherette Leather, and lighter colored leather in particular, will need more frequent cleaning to prevent the buildup of dust, dirt, and colors transferred from other items so that these do not become permanent stains.

To remove dust, a soft cloth dampened with water can be used. If a more thorough cleaning is necessary, a soft cloth dampened with a mild soap solution can be used. Your dealer has a GM approved leather cleaner available that provides superior cleaning performance when used regularly on finished automotive leathers. Allow the leather to dry naturally. Do not use heat, steam, spot lifters or