2003 Chevrolet Avalanche Owners Manual

1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt

battery with a negative ground system.

Nofice: If the other system isn’t a 12-volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged.

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2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles aren’t touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you don’t want. You wouldn’t be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transmission in PARK (P) or a manual transmission in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake.

Nofice: If you leave your radio on, it could be badly damaged. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug

unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or accessory power outlets. Turn off the radio and all lamps that aren’t needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save your radio!

4. Open the hoods and locate the positive (+) and

negative (-) terminal locations of the other vehicle. Your vehicle has a remote positive (+) jump starting terminal and a remote negative (-) jump starting terminal. You should always use these remote terminals instead of the terminals on the battery.

The remote positive (+) terminal is located under a red plastic cover near the engine accessory drive bracket. To access the remote positive (+) terminal, open the red plastic cover.

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Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You don’t need to add water to the ACDelco@ battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you don’t, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Don’t get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.

5. Check that the jumper cables don’t have loose 01

missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive terminal (+) if the vehicle has one. Negative (-) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (-) terminal, if the vehicle has one. Don’t connect positive (+) to negative (-) or you’ll get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too.

Fans or c...er moving engine parts can in+e you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.

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6. Connect the red

positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

7. Don’t let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

8. Now connect the black

negative (-) cable to the negative (-) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (-) terminal if the vehicle has one. Your vehicle’s remote negative (-) terminal is marked G N D.

Don’t let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (-) cable doesn’t go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (-) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.

9. Connect the other end of the negative (-) cable at

least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less.

10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run

the engine for awhile.

11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery. If it won’t start after a few tries, it probably needs service.

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Notice: Damage to your vehicle may result from electrical shorting if jumper cables are removed incorrectly. To prevent electrical shorting, take care that the cables don’t touch each other or any other metal. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.

To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (-) cable from the

vehicle that had the dead battery.

2. Disconnect the black negative (-) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other

vehicle.

5. Return the positive (+) remote terminal cover to its

original position.

Jumper Cable Removal

A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or Remote

Negative (-) Terminal.

B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and

Negative (-) Terminals.

C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal.

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Rear Axle When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Sewices on page 6-4. How to Check Lubricant

The proper level for the 1500 Series is from 5/8 inch to 1 5/8 inch (15 rnm to 40 mm) below the bottom of the filler plug hole. The proper level for the 2500 Series is from 0 to 112 inch (0 to 13 mm) below the bottom of the filler plug hole. Add only enough fluid to reach the proper level. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and lubricants on page 6- 17.

1500 Series shown, 2500 Series similar

To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface.

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How to Check Lubricant

Four-wheel Drive Lubricant checks in this section also apply to these vehicles. However, there are two additional systems that need lubrication. Transfer Case When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See Part C: Periodic Maintenance Inspections on page 6- 15.

Transfer Case

To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. Use care not to overtighten the plug. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6- 17.

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Front Axle When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services on page 6-4. How to Check Lubricant

If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you may need to add some lubricant. When the differential is cold, add enough lubricant to raise the level to 1/2 inch (12 mm) below the filler plug hole. When the differential is at operating temperature (warm), add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and lubricants on page 6- 17.

To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface.

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Headlamps

Bulb Replacement See Replacement Bulbs on page 5-56 for the proper type of bulbs to use. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer.

Halogen Bulbs

1.

Remove the turn signal/parking lamp housing by pressing the release clip on the outboard side of the housing and pulling the outboard end of the housing toward you.

Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.

2. Pull the inboard side of the housing out from the

vehicle.

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3. Pull the pins away from their clips and pull them up

until they completely release from the vehicle. 4. Pull the headlamp assembly out of the vehicle.

A. Low-Beam Headlamp 9. High-Beam Headlamp

5. Turn the bulb connector counterclockwise and pull it

out of the housing.

6. Unplug the electrical connector from the old bulb. 7. Plug in the electrical connector to the new bulb. Use

care not to touch the new bulb with your bare hands or anything damp or oily.

8. Place the connector with the new bulb into the

headlamp housing and turn it clockwise until it is tight.

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9.

10.

11.

Put the headlamp assembly back into the vehicle and reinstall the two pins. Place the inboard end of the turn signal/parking lamp housing into the pocket. Push the outboard side of the housing in until the release clip snaps into place.

Front Turn Signal, Sidemarker and Parking Lamps

A. Sidemarker Lamp B. Front Turn SignaVParking Lamp

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1. Remove the turn

signaVparking lamp housing by pressing the release clip on the outboard side of the housing and pulling the outboard end of the housing toward you.

2. Pull the inboard side of the housing out from the

vehicle.

3. Press the locking release lever (the sidemarker

lamp does not have a locking release lever), turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and remove it from the turn signal/parking lamp housing.

4. Remove the old bulb from the bulb socket. 5. Put the new bulb into the bulb socket. 6. Put the bulb socket into the turn signal housing and turn it clockwise until it locks (the sidemarker lamp does not lock into place).

7. Place the inboard end of the turn signaVparking

lamp housing into the pocket.

8. Push the outboard side of the housing in until the

release clip snaps into place.

Daytime Running Lamps The DRLs are located in the front fascia near the foglamps. They can be identified by their square shape. 1. Reach under the front fascia and locate the DRL housing. Be sure you are not picking the foglamp housing, which is near the DRLs.

Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL)

It is recommended that this component be replaced as a unit by your dealer.

Taillamps

A. Stoplamp B. Turn Signal Lamp C. Back-up Lamp

2. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and remove

it from the DRL housing.

3. Pull out the old bulb from the socket and put a new

bulb in.

4. Place the bulb socket back into the DRL housing

and turn it clockwise until it is tight.

1. Open the tailgate.

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2. Remove the two rear lamp assembly screws near the tailgate latch and pull out the lamp assembly.

5. Press a new bulb into the socket and turn the

socket clockwise into the taillamp housing until it clicks.

6. Reinstall the rear lamp assembly and tighten the

screws.

7. Close the tailgate. Replacement Bulbs

Exterior Lamp Low-Beam Headlamps High-Beam Headlamps Daytime Running Lamps (DRL) 4157K Side Marker Lamp

and Turn Lamp

Bulb Number

Rear Marker Lamp, Taillamp and Stop Lamp Rear Turn Lamp Back-up Lamp 1 your For replacement bulbs not listed here, please contact

194 31 57A or 3457NA Front Parking 3157 31 57 31 57

3. Press the release

tab and turn the bulb socket counterclockwise to remove it from the taillamp housing.

dealer.

4. Pull the old bulb straight out from the socket.

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Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected at least twice a year for wear and cracking. See Wiper Blade Check under At Least Twice a Year on page 6-1 1 for Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. For proper type and length, see Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 5-706. Here's how to remove the shephard's hook type. To replace the windshield wiper blade assembly do the following: 1. Lift the wiper arm and turn the blade until it is

facing away from the windshield.

. -.

2. Push the release lever and slide the wiper assembly

toward the driver's side of the vehicle.

3. Install a new blade by reversing Steps 1 and 2.

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Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see vour GM Warranty booklet for details.

Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous.

Overloading your tires can cause overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index.

CAUTION:

(Continued)

I CAUTION:

(Continued)

Underinflated tires pose the same danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold. Overinflated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured or broken by a sudden impact - such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure. Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If your tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them.

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Inflation -- Tire Pressure

The Certificationflire label, which is on the rear edge of the driver’s door, shows the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they’re cold. “Cold” means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km). Notice: Don’t let anyone tell you that underinflation or overinflation is all right. It’s not. If your tires don’t have enough air (underinflation), you can get the following:

Too much flexing

0 Too much heat Tire overloading Bad wear Bad handling Bad fuel economy

If your tires have too much air (overinflation), you can get the following:

Unusual wear 0 Bad handling

Rough ride Needless damage from road hazards

When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Also, check the tire pressure of the spare tire. How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You can’t tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they’re underinflated. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.

Tire Inspection and Rotation

Tires should be rotated every 7,500 miles (12 500 km). Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-61 and Wheel Replacement on page 5-64 for more information. Make sure the spare tire is stored securely. Push, pull, and then try to rotate or turn the tire. If it moves, use the wheel wrench/hoist shaft to tighten the cable. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-67.

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The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The first rotation is the most important. See “Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services,” in Section 6, for scheduled rotation intervals. When rotating your tires, always use the correct rotation pattern shown here.

Rust or dirt on a -..lee., 3r on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off. See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index.

After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the Certificationflire label. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” under Capacities and Specifications on page 5- 104.

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When It Is Time for New Tires

One way to tell when it’s time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining. Some commercial truck tires may not have treadwear indicators.

You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true:

You can see the indicators at three or more places around the tire.

0 You can see cord or fabric showing through the

tire’s rubber. The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged deep enough to show cord or fabric.

The tire has a bump, bulge or split.

0 The tire has a puncture, cut or other damage that

can’t be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage. Buying New Tires To find out what kind and size of tires you need, look at the Certificationl’Tire label. The tires installed on your vehicle when it was new had a Tire Performance Criteria Specifications (TPC Spec) number on each tire’s sidewall. When you get new tires, get ones with that same TPC Spec number. That way your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give proper endurance, handling, speed rating, traction, ride and other things during normal service on your vehicle. If your tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC number will be followed by an “MS” (for mud and snow).

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If you ever replace your tires with those not having a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating and construction type (bias, bias-belted or radial) as your original tires.

Mi ,.. l g tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes or types (radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the same size and type tires on all wheels. If your vehicle has 17 inch road tires (those originally installed on your vehicle) it is all right to drive with the 16 inch spare tire that came with your vehicle. When new, your vehicle included a spare tire and wheel assembly with the same overall diameter as your vehicle’s road tires and wheels. Because this spare tire was developed for use on your vehicle, it will not affect vehicle handling or cause damage to your vehicle.

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If you use bias-p., Lires on ; __. --.iicle, the wheel rim flanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle.

Uniform Tire Quality Grading Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum section width. For example: Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, which grades tires by treadwear, traction and temperature performance. (This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.) The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires.

Temperature - A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.

While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards. Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1.5) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction - AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics.

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Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. Scheduled wheel alignment and wheel balancing are not needed. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling one way or the other, the alignment may need to be reset. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your wheels may need to be rebalanced. Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your dealer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need.

Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces. If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for your vehicle.

Using the wro - replacement wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for replacement.

5-64

Notice: The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis. See Changing a flat Tire on page 5-67for more information. Used Replacement Wheels

c your vehicl

Put.---g a used heel dangerous. You can’t know how it’s been used It could fail suddenly or how far it’s been driven. and cause a crash. wheel, use a new GM original equipment wheel.

If you have to replace a

Tire Chains

If your vehicle is a 1500 Series, don’t use tire chains. They can damage your vehicle because there’s not enough clearance. Tire chains used on a vehicle without the proper amount of clearance can cause damage to the brakes, suspension or other vehicle parts. The area damaged by the tire chains could causeyou to lose control of your vehicle and you or others may be injured in a crash. Use another type of traction device only if its manufacturer recommends it for use on your vehicle and tire size combination and road conditions. Follow that manufacturer’s instructions. To help avoid damage to your vehicle, drive slowly, readjust or remove the device if it’s contacting your vehicle, and don’t spin your wheels. If you do find traction devices that will fit, install them on the rear tires.

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A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you’d use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop - well off the road if possible. If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.

Notice: If your vehicle is a 2500 Series, use tire chains only where legal and only when you must. Use chains that are the proper size for your tires. Install them on the tires of the rear axle. Don’t use chains on the tires of the front axle. Tighten them as tightly as possible with the ends securely fastened. Drive slowly and follow the chain manufacturer’s instructions. If you can hear the chains contacting your vehicle, stop and retighten them. If the contact continues, slow down until it stops. Driving too fast or spinning the wheels with chains on will damage your vehicle. If a Tire Goes Flat It’s unusual for a tire to “blowout” while you’re driving, especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a “blowout”, here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane.

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Changing a Flat Tire

If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard warninq flashers.

Chanc, J a tire can cause an i vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over you or other people. You and they could be badly injured. Find a level place to change your tire. To help prevent the vehicle from moving:

I nry. The

1. Set the parking brake firmly. 2. Put the shift lever in PARK (P). 3. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear - not in NEUTRAL.

4. Turn off the engine. 5. Put the wheel blocks at the front and rear

of the tire farthest away from the one being changed. That would be the tire on the other side of the vehicle, at the opposite end.

The following steps will tell you how to use the jack and change a tire. Removing the Spare Tire and Tools The jack and the wheel blocks are located under a cover near the passenger side rear seat.

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:~u!Mo((o~ ay] op ‘s(00l ayl anocual 01

Top Box Storage Unit (Passenger Side)

2. Remove the black pouch from the storage box. You now have all of the tools you will need to lower the spare tire and change a flat.

You’ll use the jack handle extensions and the wheel wrench to remove the underbody-mounted spare tire.

A. Spare Tire B. Hoist Assembly C. Hoist Cable D. Tire Retainer E. Hoist Shaft F. Hoist End of

Extension Tool

G. Hoist Shaft

Access Hole

H. Wheel Wrench I. Jack Handle Extensions J. Hoist Lock Equipped)

(If

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Follow these instructions to lower the spare tire: 1. Your vehicle may be equipped with a hoist lock (J). Open the spare tire lock cover on the bumper and use the ignition key to remove the lock.

3. Insert the hoist end (open end) (F) of the extension through the hole (G) in the rear bumper.

Be sure the hoist end of the extension connects into the hoist shaft (E). The ribbed square end of the extension is used to lower the spare tire.

4. Turn the wheel wrench (H) counterclockwise to lower the spare tire to the ground. Continue to turn the wheel wrench until the spare tire can be pulled out from under the vehicle. If the spare tire does not lower to the ground, the secondary latch is engaged causing the tire not to lower. See “Secondary Latch System” later in this section.

2. Assemble the wheel wrench (H) and the two jack

handle extensions (I) as shown.

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5. The wheel wrench has a hook that allows you to pull the hoist cable towards you to assist in reaching the spare tire.

Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire Use the following pictures and instructions to remove the flat tire and raise the vehicle.

6. When the tire has been

lowered, tilt the retainer (D) at the end of the cable so it can be pulled up through the wheel opening.

7. Put the spare tire near the flat tire.

The tools you’ll be using include the bottle jack (A), the wheel blocks (B), the jack handle (C), the jack handle extensions (D), and the wheel wrench (E).

5-7 1

1. If your vehicle has

wheel nut caps, looser1 them by turning the wheel wrench counterclockwise. If the vehicle has a center cap with wheel nut caps, the wheel nut caps are designed to stay with the center cap after they are loosened. Remove the entire center cap.

If the wheel has a smooth center cap, place the chisel end of the wheel wrench in the slot on the wheel and gently pry out.

2. Use the wheel wrench to loosen all the wheel nuts. Turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise to loosen the wheel nuts. Don’t remove the wheel nuts yet.

Front Position Jack Positions (overall view)

Rear Position

These locations are the general area of jack placement. See text and art following for the exact jack placement.

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Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack.

Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned can damage the vehicle and even make the vehicle fall. To help avoid personal injury and vehicle damage, be sure to fit the jack lift head into the proper location before raising the vehicle.

3. Position the jack under the vehicle.

Front Position

Front Tire Flat: If the flat tire is on a front tire of the vehicle, you’ll need to use the jack handle (C) and only one jack handle extension (D). Attach the wheel wrench to the jack handle extension. Attach the jack handle to the jack. Position the jack on the frame behind the flat tire where the frame sections overlap. Turn the wheel wrench clockwise to raise the vehicle. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so there is enough room for the spare tire to clear the ground.

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4. Remove all the wheel nuts and take off the flat tire.

Rear Position 1500

Series

Rear Position 2500

Series

Rear Tire Flat: If the flat tire is on a rear tire of the vehicle, you’ll need to use the jack handle (C) and both jack handle extensions (D). Attach the wheel wrench to the jack handle extensions. Attach the jack handle to the jack.On all 1500 Series vehicles, use the jacking pad provided on the rear axle. On 2500 series vehicles, use the axle between the spring and shock bracket. Turn the wheel wrench clockwise to raise the vehicle. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so there is enough room for the spare tire to clear the ground.

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Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from the places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off.

5. Remove any rust or dirt

from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces and spare wheel.

Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If you do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel

6. After mounting the

spare, put the wheel nuts back on with the rounded end of the nuts toward the wheel. Tighten each wheel nut by hand. Then use the wheel wrench until the wheel is held against the hub.

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Rear Position 2500

Series

Rear Position 1500

~~

Series

Front Position

7. Turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise to lower

the vehicle. Lower the jack completely.

5-76

8. Tighten the nuts firmly in a crisscross sequence as

shown by turning the wheel wrench clockwise.

Incorrect wheel nuts or improperly tightened wheel nuts can cause the wheel to come loose and even come off. This could lead to an accident. Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts. If you have to replace them, be sure to get new GM original equipment wheel nuts. Stop somewhere as soon as you can and have the nuts tightened with a torque wrench to the proper torque specification. See “Capacities and Specifications” in the Index for wheel nut torque specification.

Notice: Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque specification. See “Capacities and Specifications” in the index for the wheel nut torque specification.

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When you reinstall the full-size wheel and tire, you must also reinstall the wheel cover with attached plastic nuts, the plastic nut caps or the smooth center cap.

Storing a Flat or Spare Tire, Jack and Tools

If you are reinstalling a wheel cover with attached plastic nuts, place it on the wheel and tighten the nuts by hand to get them started. Then tighten the nut caps with the wheel wrench until they are snug. Do not overtighten the nut caps or they may break. If you are reinstalling plastic nut caps, tighten the nuts by hand to get them started. Then tighten the nut caps with the wheel wrench until they are snug. Do not overtighten the nut caps or they may break. If you are reinstalling the smooth center cap, place it on the wheel and tap it into place until it seats flush with the wheel.

Storing a jc--c, a -.:e, or other equik ... ent in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place.

Notice: An aluminum wheel with a flat tire should always be stored under the vehicle with the hoist. However, storing it that way for an extended period of time could damage the wheel. To avoid this, always stow the wheel properly with the valve stem pointing down and have the wheel repaired as soon as possible.

5-7%

D

1. Put the tire on the ground at the rear of the vehicle with the valve stem pointed down.

2. Tilt the retainer (D) downward and through the wheel opening. Make sure the retainer is fully seated across the underside of the wheel.

A. Spare Tire B. Hoist Assembly C. Hoist Cable D. Tire Retainer E. Hoist Shaft F. Hoist End of

Extension Tool

G. Hoist Shaft

Access Hole H. Wheel Wrench I. Jack Handle Extensions

J. Hoist Lock (If

Equipped))

5-79

5. Raise the tire part way upward. Make sure the

retainer is seated in the wheel opening.

6. Raise the tire fully against the underside of the vehicle by turning the wheel wrench clockwise until you hear two clicks or feel it skip twice. You cannot overtighten the cable.

3. Attach the wheel wrench (H) and extensions (I)

together.

4. Insert the hoist end (F) through the hole (G) in the rear bumper and into the hoist shaft.

PUSH & PULL

5-80

7. Make sure the tire is stored securely. Push, pull, and then try to rotate or turn the tire. If the tire moves, use the wheel wrench to tighten the cable. Reinstall the spare tire lock (if equipped).

To store the tools, follow these procedures: 1. Return the tools to the tool bag and place it back in

the Top-Box Storage unit.

2. Assemble wheel blocks and bottle jack together

with the wing nut.

3. Replace the jack cover and tighten the jack-cover

wingnuts.

Secondary Latch System Your vehicle has an underbody mounted tire hoist assembly equipped with a secondary latch system. It's designed to stop the spare tire from suddenly falling off your vehicle. For the secondary latch to work, the spare must be installed with the valve stem pointing down. See "Storing a Flat or Spare Tire, Jack and Tools" earlier in this section.

Before beginning this procedure read all the instructions. Failure to read and follow the instructions could damage the hoist assembly and you and others could get hurt. Read and follow the instructions listed below.

To release the spare tire from the secondary latch do the following:

1. Check under the vehicle to see if the cable end is

visible.

2. If the cable is not visible proceed to Step 6.

If it is visible, first try to tighten the cable by turning the wheel wrench clockwise until you hear two clicks or feel it skip twice. You cannot overtighten the cable.

3. Loosen the cable by turning the wrench

counterclockwise three or four turns.

5-81

4. Repeat this procedure at least two times. If the

spare tire lowers to the ground, continue with Step 5 of “Removing the Spare Tire and Tools” earlier in this section.

5. Turn the wrench counterclockwise until

approximately six inches (15 cm) of cable is exposed.

6. Stand the wheel blocks on their shortest ends, with the backs facing each other.

7. Place the bottom edge of the jack on the wheel

blocks, separating them so that the jack is balanced securely.

5-82

11. Lower the jack by turning the wheel wrench

counterclockwise. Keep lowering the jack until the spare tire slides off the jack or is hanging by the cable.

Someone standing too close during the procedure could be injured by the jack. If the spare tire does not slide off the jack completely, make sure no one is behind you or on either side of you as you pull the jack out from the spare.

12. Disconnect the jack handle from the jack and

carefully remove the jack. Use one hand to push against the spare while firmly pulling the jack out from under the spare tire with the other hand. If the spare tire is hanging from the cable, insert the hoist handle, extension and wheel wrench into the hoist shaft hole in the bumper and turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise to lower the spare the rest of the way.

5-83

8. Attach the jack handle, extension, and wheel

wrench to the jack and place it (with the wheel blocks) under the vehicle towards the front of the rear bumper. Position the center lift point of the jack under the center of the spare tire.

9. Turn the wrench clockwise to raise the jack until it

lifts the end fitting.

10. Continue raising the jack until the spare tire stops

moving upward and is held firmly in place. The secondary latch has released and the spare tire is balancing on the jack.

D

13. Tilt the retainer at the end of the cable and pull it through the wheel opening. Pull the tire out from under the vehicle.

14. If the cable is hanging under the vehicle, turn the

wheel wrench in the hoist shaft hole in the bumper clockwise to raise the cable back up.

Have the hoist assembly inspected as soon as you can. You will not be able to store a spare or flat tire using the hoist assembly until it has been replaced. To continue changing the flat tire, see “Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire” earlier in this section.

Spare Tire Your vehicle, when new, had a fully inflated spare tire. A spare tire may lose air over time, so check its inflation pressure regularly. See Inflation -- Tire Pressure on page 5-59 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-51 for information regarding proper tire inflation and loading your vehicle. For instruction on how to remove, install or store a spare tire, see Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-67. After installing the spare tire on your vehicle, you should stop as soon as possible and make sure the spare is correctly inflated. Have the damaged or flat road tire repaired or replaced as soon as you can and installed back onto your vehicle. This way, a spare tire will be available in case you need it again. If your vehicle has a spare tire that does not match your vehicle’s original road tires and wheels in size and type, do not include the spare in the tire rotation.

5-84

Appearance Care Remember, cleaning products can be hazardous. Some are toxic. Others can burst into flames if you strike a match or get them on a hot part of the vehicle. Some are dangerous if you breathe their fumes in a closed space. When you use anything from a container to clean your vehicle, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s warnings and instructions. And always open your doors or windows when you’re cleaning the inside. Never use these to clean your vehicle:

Gasoline Benzene Naphtha Carbon Tetrachloride Acetone Paint Thinner Turpentine Lacquer Thinner Nail Polish Remover

They can all be hazardous - some more than others -and

they can all damage your vehicle, too.

Don’t use any of these unless this manual says you can. In many uses, these will damage your vehicle: e Alcohol e Laundry Soap e Bleach e Reducing Agents Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle Use a vacuum cleaner often to get rid of dust and loose dirt. Wipe vinyl, leather, plastic and painted surfaces with a clean, damp cloth. FabridCarpet Your dealer has cleaners for the cleaning of fabric and carpet. They will clean normal spots and stains very well. You can get GM - approved cleaning products from your dealer. See GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials on page 5-91.

5-85

Special Fabric Cleaning Problems Stains caused by such things as catsup, coffee (black), egg, fruit, fruit juice, milk, soft drinks, vomit, urine and blood can be removed as follows: 1. Carefully scrape off excess stain, then sponge the

soiled area with cool water.

2. If a stain remains, follow the cleaner instructions

described earlier.

3. If an odor lingers after cleaning vomit or urine, treat

the area with a watedbaking soda solution: 1 teaspoon (5 ml) of baking soda to 1 cup (250 ml) of lukewarm water.

4. Let dry. Stains caused by candy, ice cream, mayonnaise, chili sauce and unknown stains can be removed as follows: 1. Carefully scrape off excess stain. 2. Clean with cool water and allow to dry completely. 3. If a stain remains, follow the cleaner instructions

described earlier.

Here are some cleaning tips:

Always read the instructions on the cleaner label. Clean up stains as soon as you can - before they set.

0 Carefully scrape off any excess stain.

Use a clean cloth or sponge, and change to a clean area often. A soft brush may be used if stains are stubborn. If a ring forms on fabric after spot cleaning, clean the entire area immediately or it will set.

Using Cleaner on Fabric 1. Vacuum and brush the area to remove any

loose dirt.

2. Always clean a whole trim panel or section. Mask

surrounding trim along stitch or welt lines.

3. Follow the directions on the container label. 4. Apply cleaner with a clean sponge. Don’t saturate

the material and don’t rub it roughly.

5. As soon as you’ve cleaned the section, use a

sponge to remove any excess cleaner.

6. Wipe cleaned area with a clean, water-dampened

towel or cloth.

7. Wipe with a clean cloth and let dry.

5-86

Vinyl Use warm water and a clean cloth. 0 Rub with a clean, damp cloth to remove dirt. You

may have to do this more than once.

0 Things like tar, asphalt and shoe polish will stain if

you don’t get them off quickly. Use a clean cloth and vinyl/leather cleaner. See your dealer for this product.

Leather Use a soft cloth with lukewarm water and a mild soap or saddle soap and wipe dry with a soft cloth. Then, let the leather dry naturally. Do not use heat to dry. 0 For stubborn stains, use a

leather cleaner. See your

dealer for this product. Never use oils, varnishes, solvent-based or abrasive cleaners, furniture polish or shoe polish on leather.

0 Soiled or stained leather should be cleaned

immediately. If dirt is allowed to work into the finish, it can harm the leather.

Top of the Instrument Panel Use only mild soap and water to clean the top surfaces of the instrument panel. Sprays containing silicones or waxes may cause annoying reflections in the windshield and even make it difficult to see through the windshield under certain conditions. Interior Plastic Components Use only a mild soap and water solution on a soft cloth or sponge. Commercial cleaners may affect the surface finish. Glass Surfaces Glass should be cleaned often. GM Glass Cleaner or a liquid household glass cleaner will remove normal tobacco smoke and dust films on interior glass. See GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials on page 5-91. Notice: Don’t use abrasive cleaners on glass, because they may cause scratches. Avoid placing decals on the inside rear window, since they may have to be scraped off later. If abrasive cleaners are used on the inside of the rear window, an electric defogger element may be damaged. Any temporary license should not be attached across the defogger grid.

5-87

Care of Safety Belts Keep belts clean and dry.

Do nc, -.-acl. Jr d,, sa.,.y belts. If you do, it may severely weaken them. In a crash, they might not be able to provide adequate protection. Clean safety belts only with mild soap and lukewarm water.

Weatherstrips Silicone grease on weatherstrips will make them last longer, seal better, and not stick or squeak. Apply silicone grease with a clean cloth at least every six months. During very cold, damp weather more frequent application may be required. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6- 17. Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle The paint finish on your vehicle provides beauty, depth of color, gloss retention and durability. 5-88

Washing Your Vehicle The best way to preserve your vehicle’s finish is to keep it clean by washing it often with lukewarm or cold water. Don’t wash your vehicle in the direct rays of the sun. Use a car washing soap. Don’t use strong soaps or chemical detergents. Be sure to rinse the vehicle well, removing all soap residue completely. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. See GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials on page 5-91. Don’t use cleaning agents that are petroleum based, or that contain acid or abrasives. All cleaning agents should be flushed promptly and not allowed to dry on the surface, or they could stain. Dry the finish with a soft, clean chamois or an all-cotton towel to avoid surface scratches and water spotting. High pressure car washes may cause water to enter your vehicle. Cleaning Exterior Lampdlenses Use only lukewarm or cold water, a soft cloth and a car washing soap to clean exterior lamps and lenses. Follow instructions under “Washing Your Vehicle.”

Finish Care Occasional waxing or mild polishing of your vehicle by hand may be necessary to remove residue from the paint finish. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. See GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials on page 5-91. If your vehicle has a “basecoaflclearcoat” paint finish. The clearcoat gives more depth and gloss to the colored basecoat. Always use waxes and polishes that are non-abrasive and made for a basecoatklearcoat paint finish.

Notice: Machine compounding or aggressive polishing on a basecoatlclearcoat paint finish may dull the finish or leave swirl marks. Foreign materials such as calcium chloride and other salts, ice melting agents, road oil and tar, tree sap, bird droppings, chemicals from industrial chimneys, etc., can damage your vehicle’s finish if they remain on painted surfaces. Wash the vehicle as soon as possible. If necessary, use non-abrasive cleaners that are marked safe for painted surfaces to remove foreign matter. Exterior painted surfaces are and chemical fallout that can period of years. You can help to keep the paint finish looking new by keeping your vehicle garaged or covered whenever possible.

subject to aging, weather take their toll over a

Protecting Exterior Bright Metal Parts Bright metal parts should be cleaned regularly to keep their luster. Washing with water is all that is usually needed. However, you may use chrome polish on chrome or stainless steel trim, if necessary. Use special care with aluminum trim. To avoid damaging protective trim, never use auto or chrome polish, steam or caustic soap to clean aluminum. A coating of wax, rubbed to high polish, is recommended for all bright metal parts. Windshield If the windshield washer, or if the wax, sap or other material may be on the blade or windshield. Clean the outside of the windshield with a full-strength glass cleaning liquid. The windshield is clean if beads do not form when you rinse it with water. Grime from the windshield will stick to the wiper blades and affect their performance. Clean the blade by wiping vigorously with a cloth soaked in full-strength windshield washer solvent. Then rinse the blade with water. Check the wiper blades and clean them as necessary; replace blades that look worn.

and Wiper Blades is not clear after using the windshield wiper blade chatters when running,

5-89

Sheet Metal Damage If your vehicle is damaged and requires sheet metal repair or replacement, make sure the body repair shop applies anti-corrosion material to parts repaired or replaced to restore corrosion protection. Original manufacturer replacement parts will provide the corrosion protection while maintaining the warranty. Finish Damage Any stone chips, fractures or deep scratches in the finish should be repaired right away. Bare metal will corrode quickly and may develop into major repair expense. Minor chips and scratches can be repaired with touch-up materials avaliable from your dealer or other service outlets. Larger areas of finish damage can be corrected in your dealer’s body and paint shop.

Aluminum or Chrome-Plated Wheels Your vehicle may be equipped with either aluminum or chrome-plated wheels. Keep your wheels clean using a soft clean cloth with mild soap and water. Rinse with clean water. After rinsing thoroughly, dry with a soft clean towel. A wax may then be applied. The surface of these wheels is similar to the painted surface of your vehicle. Don’t use strong soaps, chemicals, abrasive polishes, abrasive cleaners, cleaners with acid, or abrasive cleaning brushes on them because you could damage the surface. Do not use chrome polish on aluminum wheels. Use chrome polish only on chrome-plated wheels, but avoid any painted surface of the wheel, and buff off immediately after application. Don’t take your vehicle through an automatic car wash that has silicone carbide tire cleaning brushes. These brushes can also damage the surface of these wheels. Ti res To clean your tires, use a stiff brush with tire cleaner. Notice: When applying a tire dressing, always take care to wipe off any overspray or splash from all painted surfaces on the body or wheels of the vehicle. Petroleum-based products may damage the paint finish and tires.

5-90

Underbody Maintenance

Chemicals used for ice and snow removal and dust control can collect on the underbody. If these are not removed, accelerated corrosion (rust) can occur on the underbody parts such as fuel lines, frame, floor pan and exhaust system even though they have corrosion protection. At least every spring, flush these materials from the underbody with plain water. Clean any areas where mud and debris can collect. Dirt packed in close areas of the frame should be loosened before being flushed. Your dealer or an underbody car washing system can do this for you.

Chemical Paint Spotting

Some weather and atmospheric conditions can create a chemical fallout. Airborne pollutants can fall upon and attack painted surfaces on your vehicle. This damage can take two forms; blotchy, ringlet-shaped discolorations, and small irregular dark spots etched into the paint surface. Although no defect in the paint job causes this, GM will repair, at no charge to the owner, the surfaces of new vehicles damaged by this fallout condition within 12 months or 12,000 miles (20 000 km) of purchase, whichever occurs first.

GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials See your GM dealer for more information on purchasing the following products.

GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials

Description

Polishing Cloth Wax-Treated Tar and Road Oil Remover Chrome Cleaner and Use

I Polish

White Sidewall Tire Cleaner Vinyl Cleaner

I Glass Cleaner

~~~

Usaae

Interior and exterior polishina cloth. Removes tar, road oil and

I asphalt.

onchrome or

stainless steel. Removes soil and black marks from whitewalls. Cleans vinyl tops, upholstery and convertible tom.

I Removes dirt, grime,

smoke and finclerwints.

5-9 1

GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials

(cont’d)

GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials

(cont’d)

Description

Wash Wax Concentrate

ontaminants, Spray on

Spot Lifter

Odor Eliminator

Usage Medium foaming shampoo. Cleans and lightly waxes. Biodegradable and phosphate free. Quickly and easily removes spots and stains from carpets, vinyl and cloth upholstery. Odorless spray odor eliminator used on fabrics, vinyl, leather and carpet.

See your General Motors parts department for these products. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on paae 6- 17.

5-92

Vehicle Identification

Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)

I1 11111111 1111 111 111111 111 111111II 111111111111 111111111 1.

@ SAMPLE4UX1 M072675

Service Parts Identification Label You’ll find this label located in the glove box. It’s very helpful if you ever need to order parts. On this label is:

your VIN, the model designation, paint information and a list of all production options and special equipment.

Be sure that this label is not removed from the vehicle.

This is the legal identifier for your vehicle. It appears on a plate in the front corner of the instrument panel, on the driver’s side. You can see it if you look through the windshield from outside your vehicle. The VIN also appears on the Vehicle Certification and Service Parts labels and the certificates of title and registration. Engine Identification The 8th character in your VIN is the engine code. This code will help you identify your engine, specifications and replacement parts.

5-93

Electrical System Notice; Don’t add anything electrical to your vehicle unless you check with your dealer first. Some electrical equipment can damage your vehicle and the damage wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Some add-on electrical equipment can keep other components from working as they should. Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to add anything to your vehicle, see Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-65.

Windshield Wiper Fuses The windshield wiper motor is protected by an internal circuit breaker and a fuse. If the motor overheats due to heavy snow, etc., the wiper will stop until the motor cools. If the overload is caused by some electrical problem and not snow, etc., be sure to get it fixed. Power Windows and Other Power Options Circuit breakers protect the power windows and other power accessories. When the current load is too heavy, the circuit breaker opens and closes, protecting the circuit until the problem is fixed or goes away.

5-94

Fuses and Circuit Breakers

Instrument Panel Fuse Block

The wiring circuits in your vehicle are protected from short circuits by a combination of fuses, circuit breakers and fusible thermal links. This greatly reduces the chance of fires caused by electrical problems. Look at the silver-colored band inside the fuse. If the band is broken or melted, replace the fuse. Be sure you replace a bad fuse with a new one of the identical size and rating. If you ever have a problem on the road and don’t have a spare fuse, you can borrow one that has the same amperage. Just pick some feature of your vehicle that you can get along without - like the radio or cigarette lighter - and use its fuse, if it is the correct amperage. Replace it as soon as you can.

The fuse block access door is on the driver’s side edge of the instrument panel. Pull off the cover to access the fuse block.

You can remove fuses with a fuse extractor which is mounted to the fuse block access door. To remove fuses if you don’t have a fuse extractor, hold the end of the fuse between your thumb and index finger and pull straight out.

5-95

You may have spare fuses located behind the fuse block access door. These can be used to replace a bad fuse. However, make sure it is of the correct amperage.

L Fuses I TBC ACCY I IGN 3

Usage Windshield Wipers Truck Body Controller Accessory Ignition, Heated Seats

I HTR N C I LOCK 1 HVAC 1 I L DOOR I CRUISE I UNLOCK IFOG I BRAKE DRIVER UNLOCK

Power Door Lock Relay (Lock Function) Inside Rearview Mirror, Climate Control System Driver's Door Harness Connection Cruise Control Power Door Lock Relay [Unlock Function) Rear Fog Lamp (Export Only) Anti-Lock Brake System Power Door Lock Relay (Driver's Door Unlock Function)

LP

5-96

I Fuses I IGN 0 I TBC IGN 0

(RT TRN I BODY

Usage PCM, TCM Truck Body Controller Vehicle and Trailer High Mounted Stoplamp Left Turn SignaVStop Trailer Left Turn Signals and Sidemarkers Vehicle Stoplamps, Brake Module, Electronic Throttle Control Module Right Turn SignaVStop Trailer I Right Turn Signals and Sidemarkers Harness Connector

5-97

Center Instrument Panel Fuse Block The center instrument panel utility block is located underneath the instrument panel, to the left of the steering column.

6-WAY

Device SEO

SL RIDE

5-98

Usage Special Equipment Option

Underhood Fuse Block

To remove fuses, hold the end of the fuse between your thumb and index finger and pull straight out. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-72 for more information on its location.

The underhood fuse block in the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle near the battery. Lift the cover for access to the fuse/relay block.

5-99

Replace cover after servicing.

Remettre le couvercle en place.

,--.

GLOW i PLUG

1. L .

LSTOPLP I

The NOTE:

and function FUNCTION/AMP-GAS amperage Of these fuses are different for gas and diesel fueled engines. See

Owners Manual a for

functions of studs #I and #2.

FONCTION/INTENSITE-ESSENCE FONCTIONIINTENSITE-DIESEL

FUNCTION/AMP-DIESEL

INJ 2/15A

essence

EDU/25A rnoteurs ECMRPVIISA FUEL HT115A ECMI/I5A

* REMARQUE: La fonction et I'intensiti. de ces fusibles sont diff6rentes pour les Voir le Guide du proprigtaire a pour

et les moteurs

diesel.

les fonctions des plots 1 et 2.

5-1 00

*I - Gasoline Engine and Fuel Injection Rail #2. *2 - Gasoline Engine and Fuel Injection Rail #1. *3 - Gasoline Engine; Oxygen Sensors. *4 - Gasoline Engine; Oxygen Sensors. *5 - PCM Ignition

LR PARK

Door Modules, Door Locks,

Area and Instrument

5-1 01

Fuses 4 w s

RR HVAC Rear AUX

PWR

IGN 1 PCM 1

ETC/ECM

IGN E

RTD TRL B/U PCM B

F/PM P B/U

LP Back-up Lamps,

5-1 02

I Usage Vent Solenoid Canister/ Quadrasteer Module Power

Climate Control

Auxiliary Power Outlet - Console Ignition Relay Powertrain Control Module Electronic Throttle Control, Electronic Brake Controller Instrument Panel Cluster, Air Conditioning Relay, Turn SignaVHazard Switch, Starter Relay Ride Control Backup Lamps Powertrain Control Module, Fuel Pump Fuel Pump (Relay)

Trailer Wiring

Automatic

Transmission Shift Lock Control System

WIS WASH

HomeLink, Rear Heated

INFO

5-1 03

Capacities and Specifications Please refer to Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6- 17 for more information. All capacities are approximate.

Engine

VORTECTM 5300 V8 VORTECTM 81 00 V8

Engine Specifications VIN Code

Transmission

Spark Plug Gap

Automatic Automatic

~~~

0.060 INCHES (1 5 2 MM) MM) 0.060 INCHES (1.52

Capacities and Specifications

Capacities

After refill, the level must be rechecked. See Cooling System on page 5-30.

Application

English

Engine Cooling System VORTECTM 5300 V8 VORTECTM 81 00 V8

16.5 quarts 24.0 quarts

Metric

15.6 L 23.0 L

After refill, the level must be rechecked. Add enough engine oil so that the fluid is within the proper operating range. See Engine Oil on page 5-15.

~~~

~~

~~

5-1 04

Capacities and Specifications (cont’d)

Application

Engine Oil with Filter VORTECTM 5300 V8 (VIN Code T) VORTECTM 8100 V8 (VIN Code G)

Fuel Tank Capacity 1500 2500

Air Conditioning Refrigerat R-l34a

Capacities

6.0 quarts 6.5 quarts

5.7 L 6.1 L

31 .O gallons 37.5 gallons

117.0 L 142.0 L

Wheels and Tires

5-1 05

Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts Replacement part numbers listed in this section are based on the latest information available at the time of printing, and are subject to change. If a part listed in this manual is not the same as the part used in your vehicle when it was built, or if you have any questions, please contact your GM dealer. These specifications are for information only. If you have any questions, see the service manual.

PF44* A1518C* cv2001 -c*

41-974* / PZTR5A15t

G F626*

151 53642**

ITTA

PF454* A1 51 8C*

None

41 -983* GF626*

1 51 53642**

I T A

22 inches (56.0 cm)

22 inches (56.0 cm)

VIN Code Oil Filter

Engine Air Cleaner /Filter

PCV Valve Spark Plugs Fuel Filter