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vehicle without knowing enough about it. Be sure you have sufficient knowledge, experience, and the proper replacement parts and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task. Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts and other fasteners. “English” and “metric” fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.



Fuel Use regular unleaded ‘gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher. At a minimum, it should meet specifications ASTM D4814 in the United States and CGSB 3.5-M93 in Canada. Improved gasoline specifications have been developed by the American Automobile Manufacturers Association (AAMA) for better vehicle performance and engine protection. Gasolines meeting the AAMA specification could provide improved driveability and emission control system protection compared-to other gasolines. Be sure the posted octane is at least 87. If the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If it’s bad enough, it can damage your engine. If you’re using fuel rated at 87 octane or hgher and you still hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service. But don’t worry if you hear a little pinging noise when you’re accelerating or driving up a hill. That’s nomal, and you don’t have to buy a higher octane fuel to get rid of pinging. It’s the heavy, constant knock that means you have a problem.

If your vehicle is certified’ to meet California Emission Standards (indicated on the underhood tune-up label), it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. If such fuels are not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp on your instrument panel may turn on and/or your vehicle may fail a smog-check test. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for diagnosis to determine the cause of failure. In the event it is determined that the cause of the condition is the type of fuels used, repairs may not be covered by your warranty. .In Canada, some gasolines contain an octane-enhancing additive called MMT. If you use such fuels, your emission control system performance may deteriorate and the malfunction indicator lamp on your instrument panel may turn on. If this happens, return to your authorized GM dealer for service.


To provide cleaner air, all gasolines are now required to Contain additives that will help prevent deposits from forming in your engine and fuel system, allowing your emission control system to function properly. Therefore, you should not have to add anything to the fuel. In addition, gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in your area to help clean the air. General Motors recommends that you use these gasolines if they comply with the specifications described earlier.


Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Don’t use it. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage wouldn’t be covered under your warranty.

Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. To check on fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you’ll be driving. You can also write us at the following address for advice. Just tell us where you’re going and give your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN).

General Motors Overseas Distribution Corporation, North American Export Sales (NAES) 1908 Colonel Sam Drive Oshawa, Ontario L 1 H 8P7



Gasoline vapor is highly flammable. It burns violently, and that can cause very bad injuries. Don’t smoke if you’re near gasoline or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, flames and smoking materials away from gasoline.


The cap is behind a hinged door on the driver’s side of your vehicle.


If you get gasoline on yourself and then. something ignites it, you could be badly burned. Gasoline can spray ,out on you if you open the fuel filler cap too quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel filler cap slowly and wait for any “hiss” noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.

Be careful not to spill gasoline. Clean gasoline from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See “Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle” in the Index.

While refueling, hang the cap inside the fuel door. To take off the cap, turn it slowly to the left (counterclockwise).

When you put the cap back on, turn it to the right until you hear at least three clicks. Make sure you fully install the cap. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index.


If you need a new cap, be sure to get the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit or have proper venting, and your fuel tank and emissions system might be damaged.

Checking Things Under the Hood /1\ CAUTION:

Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like gasoline, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.


Hood Release

To open the hood, first pull the handle inside the vehicle on the lower driver’s side of the kick panel.

Then go to the front of the vehicle and release the secondary hood release.


When you open the hood, this is what you will see:

A. Windshield Washer Fluid Fill Location B. Coolant Fill Location C. Oil Dipstick Location D. Transmission Dipstick/Fill Location E. Air Cleaner

F. Oil Fill Location G. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir H. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir I. Battery


Remove the hood prop from the slot in the hood and return the prop to its retainer. Then just pull the hood down and close it firmly.

Lift the hood, release the hood prop from its retainer and put the hood prop into the slot in the hood. Before closing the hood, be sure all the filler caps are on properly. Then lift the hood to relieve pressure on the hood prop.


Engine Oil

If the CHECK OIL light on the instrument panel comes on, it means you need to check your engine oil level right away. For more information, see “Check Oil Light” in the Index.



You should check your engine oil level regularly; this is an added reminder. It’s a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.

The engine oil dipstick is a yellow ring. Turn off the engine and give the oil a few minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you don’t, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.


Checking Engine Oil Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.

When to Add Oil If the oil is at or below the ADD line, then you’ll need to add some oil. But you must use the right kind. This part explains what kind of oil to use. For crankcase

Don’t add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged.

Just fill it enough to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you’re through.


What Kind of Oil to Use Oils recommended for your vehicle can be identified by looking for the “Starburst” symbol. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API). Do not use any oil which does not carry this Starburst symbol.

If you change your own oil, be sure you use oil that has the Starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. If you have your oil changed for you, be sure the oil put into your engine is American Petroleum Institute certified for gasoline engines.






+ 40-

+ 20 -

0 -

You should also use the proper viscosity oil for your vehicle, as shown in the following chart:






As shown in the chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. However, you can use SAE 1OW-30 if it’s going to be 0°F (- 18 “C) or above. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils, such as SAE 20W-50.


Use only engine oil with the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines “Starburst” symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty.

GM Goodwrench@ oil meets all the requirements for your vehicle. Engine Oil Additives Don’t add anything to your oil. Your GM dealer is ready to advise if you think something should be added.

When to Change Engine Oil See if any one of these is true for you:

Most trips are less than 5 to 10 miles (8 to 16 km). This is particularly important when outside temperatures are below freezing. Most trips include extensive idling (such as frequent driving in stop-and-go traffic). Most trips are through dusty areas. You frequently tow a trailer or use a carrier on top of your vehicle. The vehicle is used for delivery service, police, taxi or other commercial application.

Driving under these conditions causes engine oil to break down sooner. If any one of these is true for your vehicle, then you need to change your oil and filter every 3,000 miles (5 000 km) or 3 months -- whichever occurs first. If none of them is true, change the oil and filter every 7,500 miles (12 500 km) or 12 months -- whichever occurs first. Driving a vehicle with a fully warmed engine under highway conditions causes engine oil to break down slower.


Engine Cover Removing the Engine Cover 1. Move both front seats as far back as they will go.

What to Do with Used Oil Did you know that used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer? Don’t let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly throw away clothing or rags containing used engine oil. (See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products.) Used oil can be a real threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all free-flowing oil from the filter before disposal. Don’t ever dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help.

2. Remove the instrument panel extension by removing

the two nuts that secure it in place.


I .

3. The nuts are located at the bottom of the extension

on the driver and passenger side corners.

4. Unscrew the screws located near the top on each side of the extension. Grasp the extension from both sides and gently remove it.


5. Disconnect the electrical connectors and set the

extension aside.

6. Grasp the top of the heater duct and pull downdgently

to remove.



7. Remove the two bolts at the engine cover. The bolts are not supposed to come out of the cover, only from the front of the dash. When removing the cover, be careful not to damage the instrument panel or the trim.

8. Grasp the bottom of the cover and slide it rearward.

Then, lift it up and out of the vehicle.


Installing the Engine Cover 1. Lift the engine cover into the vehicle and slide it all the way forward. Make sure the rubber seal is over the latches.

2. Install the two bolts at the engine cover. 3. Put the heater duct over the engine cover studs. Push

up on the duct gently until it snaps into place.

4. Reconnect the electrical connectors. 5. Install the engine cover extension by gently squeezing the sides and sliding it into place. Make sure all of the fastener clips engage, and the extension fits properly in place. Replace and tighten the two screws.

5. Install the two nuts to secure the extension in place.

Air Cleaner


To remove the air filter, lift the hood, unsnap both clips and remove the top. After changing the filter, snap both clips to secure the air cleaner. Be sure the air cleaner lid is correctly positioned to seal out dust and contaminants that are harmful to your engine. Make sure the fresh air hose is still attached after the filter change.


Automatic Transmission Fluid When to Check and Change A good time to check your automatic transmission fluid level is when the engine oil is changed, Change both the fluid and filter every 15,000 miles (25 000 km) if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions:

In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or higher. In hilly or mountainous terrain. When doing frequent trailer towing. Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service.

If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, change the fluid and filter every 30,000 miles (50 000 km). See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to replace the air filter and the crankcase ventilation filter. See “Scheduled N ntenance Services” in the Index.

Operating th, mgine with the air cleaner off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air, it stops flame if the engine backfires. If it isn’t there, and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Don’t drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner off.


If the air cleaner is off, a backfire can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner in place when you’re driving.


How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at your GM dealer Service Department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.


Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid.

Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission fluid level if you have been driving: 0 When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C).

At high speed for quite a while.

0 In heavy traffic -- especially in hot weather. 0 While pulling a trailer. To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to ,200"F (82°C to 93°C).

Checking Transmission Fluid Hot Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). If it's colder than 50°F (lO"C), drive the vehicle in DRIVE (D) until the engine temperature gage moves and then remains steady for 10 minutes. Then follow the hot check procedures.


Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:

1. Flip the handle up and then pull out the dipstick and

wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.

2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and

then pull it back out again.

Checking Transmission Fluid Cold A cold check is made after the vehicle has been sitting for eight hours or more with the engine off and is used only as a reference. Let the engine run at idle for five minutes if outside temperatures are 50°F (10°C) or more. If it's colder than 50°F ( 10°C), you may have to idle the engine longer. Should the fluid level be low during a cold check, you must perform a hot check before adding fluid. This will give you a more accurate reading of the fluid level.

Checking the Fluid Hot or Cold

Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine running. With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever in PARK (P). With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P).

0 Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more.


fluid to bring the level up to the HOT area for a hot check. It doesn’t take much fluid, generally less than a pint (0.5 L). Don ’r ove$iZl. We recommend you use only fluid labeled DEXRON@-111, because fluid with that label is made especially for your automatic transmission. Damage caused by fluid other than DEXRON-TI1 is not covered by your new vehicle warranty. a After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as

described under “How to Check.” When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.

All- Wheel Drive If you have an all-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure to perform the lubricant checks described in this section. However, they have two additional systems that need lubrication. Transfer Case When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See “Periodic Maintenance Inspections’’ in the Index.




Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower level. The fluid level must be in the COLD area for a cold check or in the HOT area or cross-hatched area for a hot check. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.

How to Add Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transmission fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Add fluid only after checking the transmission fluid HOT. (A COLD check is used only as a reference.) If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper

How to Check Lubricant

If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.


Front Axle When to Check and Change Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.

How to Check Lubricant

If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.

What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.

Rear Axle When to Check and Change Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index. How to Check Lubricant

If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.

What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with new DEX-COOL (orange-colored, silicate-free) engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for 5 years or 100,000 miles (166 000 km), whichever occurs first. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see “Engine Overheating’’ in the Index. A 50/50 mixture of water and the proper coolant for your vehicle will: 0 Give freezing protection down to -34°F (-37°C).

Give boiling protection up to 265 “F (1 29°C).

0 Protect against rust and corrosion.

Help keep the proper engine temperature. 0 Let the warning lights and gages work as

they should.


GM Engine Coolant Supplement (sealer) (GM Part No. 3634621) with any complete coolant change. If you use this mixture, you don’t need to add anything else.


Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid like alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mix will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mix. With plain water or the wrong mix, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mix of clean water and DEX-COOL (orange-colored, silicate-free) antifreeze.


you use

When adding coolant it is important that DEX-COOL TM (orange-colored, silicate-free) coolant meeting GM Specification 6277M. If silicated coolant is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine

coolant will require change sooner -- at

30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first.

What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean water (preferably distilled) and one-half DEX-COOL (orange-colored, silicate-free) antifreeze that meets GM Specification 6277M, which won’t damage aluminum parts. Use


Checking Coolant


If you use an improper coolant mix, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mix can freeze and crackthe engine, radiator, heater core and other parts.

If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system.


If you use the proper coolant, you don’t have to to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim improve the system. These can be harmful.

When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at ADD, or a little higher. When your engine is warm, the level should be up to FULL HOT, or a little higher.


Adding Coolant If ,you need more coolant, add the proper mix at the


Turnj J the radiator pressure cap when the engine.and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. With the'coolant recovery tank, you will almost never have to add coolant at the radiator. Never turn the radiator pressure cap

-- even a 1. little -- when,the engine and radiator are hot.

Add coolant mix at the recovery tank, but be,careful not to spill it.

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, . and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don't spill coolant on a hot engine.


Radiator Pressure Cap


Your radiator cap is a 15 psi (105 kPa) pressure-type cap and must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss and possible engine damage from overheating. Be sure the arrows on the cap line up with the overflow tube on the radiator filler neck.

When you replace your radiator pressure cap, a GM cap is recommended. See “Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts” in the Index.


Thermostat Engine coolant temperature is controlled by a thermostat in the engine coolant system. The thermostat stops the flow of coolant through the radiator until the coolant reaches a preset temperature. Power Steering Fluid

When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to reg,ularlY check Power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and remired. How To Check Power Steering Fluid When the engine compartment is cool, unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. Then remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on the dipstick. The level should be at the FULL COLD mark. If necessary, add only enough fluid to bring the level up to the mark. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants’’ in the Index. Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.


Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing. Adding Washer Fluid

Open the cap labeled WASHER FLUID ONLY. Add washer fluid until the tank is full.


When using concentrated washer fluid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water. Don’t mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water doesn’t clean as well as washer fluid. Fill your washer fluid tank only three-quarters full when it’s very cold. This allows for expansion, which could damage the tank if it is completely full. Don’t use radiator antifreeze in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.


Brakes Brake Fluid

Your.brake master cylinder reservoir is here. It is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid. There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is


leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes won’t work well, or won’t work at all. So, it isn’t a good idea to “top off’ your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid won’t correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you’ll have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add (or remove) brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to check your brake fluid. See “Periodic Maintenance Inspections” in the Index.

Checking Brake Fluid

You can check the brake fluid without taking off the cap. Just look at the window on the brake fluid reservoir. The fluid level should be above MIN. If it isn’t, have your brake system checked to see if there is a leak. After work is done on the brake hydraulic system, make sure the level is above MIN and below the top of the window.

What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid -- such as Delco Supreme 11 No. 1052535). Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only, and always clean the brake fluid reservoir ca.

lefore removing it.

(GM Part


With the wrong kind of fluid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.



Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they’ll have to be replaced. Don’t let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See “Appearance Care” in the Index.

The brake wear warning sound means that sooner or later your brakes won’t work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.


Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair.

Brake Wear Your vehicle has front disc brakes and rear drum brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving (except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly).

Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Free movement of brake calipers and properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake calipers for movement, brake pads for wear, and evenly torque wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM specifications.


Your rear drum brakes don’t have wear indicators, but if you ever hear a rear brake rubbing noise, have the rear brake linings inspected. Also, the rear brake drums should be removed and inspected each time the tires are removed for rotation or changing. When you have the front brakes replaced, have the rear brakes inspected, too. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you make a brake stop, your disc brakes adjust for wear. If your brake pedal goes down farther than normal, your rear drum brakes may need adjustment. Adjust them by backing up and firmly applying the brakes a few times.

Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a modern vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Vehicles we design and test have top-quality GM brake parts in them, as your vehicle does when it is new. When you replace parts of your braking system -- for example, when your brake linings wear down and you have to have new ones put in -- be sure you get new genuine GM replacement parts. If you don’t, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change -- for the worse. The braking performance you’ve come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts. Battery Every new vehicle has a Delco Freedom@ battery. You never have to add water to one of these. When it’s time for a new battery, we recommend a Delco Freedom battery. Get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label.


Vehicle Storage 25 days or more, If you’re not going to drive your vehicle for take off the black, negative (-) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.

Bulb Replacement Before replacing any bulbs, make sure all lamps are off and the vehicle is not running. See “Replacement Bulbs” in the Index. Halogen Bulbs

Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you aren’t careful. See “Jump Starting’’ in the Index for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.

Contact your dealer to learn how to prepare your vehicle for longer storage periods.. Also, for your audio system, see “Theft-Deterrent Feature” in the Index.

Halogen bulbs have p’ surized gas can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.

il de and


Headlamps Sealed Beam Lamps

1. Remove the four retainer screws and the retainer.

3. Install the new bulb into the connector. 4. Reverse Steps 1 and 2 to reinstall the headlamp.

Composite Headlamps

1. Open the hood. 1 2. Remove the two screws

from the sidemarkedturn signal lamp.

2. Pull the connector out and unplug the lamp.



4. Remove the screw located behind the corner reflector in order to remove the entire corner reflector.

3. Completely remove the sidemarkedturn signal lamp

by pulling out the assembly and disconnecting the sidemarkedturn signal lamp sockets from the lamp.


6. Remove the

composite assembly.

5. Remove the remaining three screws; the first one

from the corner reflector pocket and the two remaining from the composite assembly.

7. Turn the halogen bulb counterclockwise to remove

from the assembly.

8. Install the new bulb into the composite assembly by turning it clockwise until it is completely-tightened.

9. Replace the composite assembly by installing and tightening all of the screws previously removed.


Front Turn Signal -Lamps 1. Remove the two screws at the inside edge of the

parking/turn signal lamp assembly.


2. Remove the lamp

3 3. Squeeze the tab on the

side of the lamp socket while turning the socket counterclockwise.

Taillamps 1. Open the rear door.

2. Remove the two screws

from behind the door.

.4. Pull the socket out of the lamp assembly. 5. Pull the bulb from the socket. 6. Gently push the new bulb into the socket. 7. Put-the socket back into the lamp assembly and turn

it clockwise until it locks.

8. Put the parking/turn signal lamp assembly back into

the vehicle and tighten the screws.


4. Press the tab and

turn the socket counterclockwise to remove the socket from the bezel. If the socket does not have a tab, turn the socket counterclockwise to remove the socket from the bezel.

3. Pull out 1'

l a m p assembly so you can see the socket.

5. Reverse Steps 1 through 4 to reinstall the taillamp. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your GM dealer service department.


Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement To replace your windshield wiper blade ‘inserts, lift the wiper arm away‘from the windshield.

Pinch the two tabs on the wiper arm and slide the ins1 ert out of the blade. Slide the new one in place. Make sure the tabs are locked into position. See “Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts” in the Index for the proper type of replacement blade. Tires We don’t make tires. Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your wai-ranty booklet for details.



Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous.

Overloading your tires can cause overheating as a result of too much friction.’ You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index. Underinflated tires pose the same danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold. Overinflated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured or broken by a sudden

impact -- such as When you hit a pothole.

Keep tires at the recommended pressure. Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If your tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them.

Inflation -- Tire Pressure The Certificatioflire label, which is on the rear edge of the driver’s door, shows the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they’re cold. “Cold” means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km).


Don’t let anyone tell you that underinflation or overinflation is all right. It’s not. If your tires don’t have enough air (underinflation), you can get the following:

Too much flexing Too much heat Tire overloading Bad wear Bad handling Bad fuel economy.

NOTICE: (Continued)

NOTICE: (Continued)

If your tires have too much air (overinflation). you can get the following:

Unusual wear Bad handling Rough ride Needless damage from road hazards.

When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Don’t forget your compact spare tire. It should be at 60 psi (420 kPa).

How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You can’t tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they’re underinflated. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.


Tire Inspection and Rotation Tires should be inspected every 6,000 to 8,000 miles (10 000 to 13 000 km) for any signs of unusual wear. If unusual wear is present, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See “When It’s Time for New Tires” and “Wheel Replacement” later in this section for more information.

The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The first rotation is the most important. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index for scheduled rotation intervals.

When rotating your tires, always use the correct rotation pattern shown here. Don’t include the compact spare tire in your tire rotation. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the CertificatiodTire label. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” in the Index.


Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off. (See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index.)

When It’s Time for New Tires

One way to tell when it’s time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining.

You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true: 0 You can see the indicators at three or more places

around the tire. You can see cord or fabric showing through the tire’s rubber.

0 The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged deep

enough to show cord or fabric.

0 The tire has a bump, bulge or split.

The tire has a puncture, cut or other damage. that, can’t be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage.


Buying New Tires To find out what kind and size of tires you need, look at the Certificatiooire label. The tires installed on your vehicle when it was new had a Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC Spec) number on each tire’s sidewall. When you get new tires, get ones with that same TPC Spec number. That way your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give proper endurance, handling, speed rating, traction, ride and other things during normal service on your vehicle. If your tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC number will be followed by an “MS” (for mud and snow). If you ever replace your tires with those not having a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating and construction type (bias, bias-belted or radial) as your original tires.


ng tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes or types (radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the same size and type tires on all wheels. It’s all right to drive with your compact spare, though. It was developed for use on your vehicle.

Uniform Tire Quality Grading The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, which grades tires by treadwear, traction and temperature performance. (This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.) The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading system does

not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to Federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards.

Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1 1/2) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences Jn road characteristics and climate.


Traction -- A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are A, B, and C, and they represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on braking (straightahead) traction tests and does not include cornering (turning) traction.

Temperature -- A, B, C

The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or

excessive loading, either separately or in combination. can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure. Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. In most cases, you will not need to have your wheels aligned again. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling one way or the other, the alignment may need to be reset. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your wheels may need to be rebalanced. Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked, or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your GM dealer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need. Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces.


If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for your vehicle model.




Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct whee1,’wheel bolts and wheel nuts for replacement.

The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and


See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index for more information.

Used Replacement Wheels


Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is dangerous. You can’t know how it’s been used or how many miles it’s been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause an accident. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new GM original equipment wheel.


rire Chains


If your vehicle has P235/65R15 size tires, don’t use tire chains. They can damage your vehicle. If you have other size tires, use tire chains only where legal and only when you must. Use only SAE Class “S” type chains that are the proper size for your tires. Install them on the rear axle tires and tighten them as tightly as possible with the ends securely fastened. Drive slowly and follow the chain manufacturer’s instructions. If you can hear the chains contacting your vehicle, stop and retighten them. If the contact continues, slow down until it stops. Driving too fast or spinning the wheels with chains on will damage your vehicle.

Appearance Care Remember, cleaning products can be hazardous. Some are toxic. Others can burst into flame if you strike a match or get them on a hot part of the vehicle. Some are dangerous if you breathe their fumes in a closed space. When you use anything from a container to clean your vehicle, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s warnings and instructions. And always open your doors or windows when you’re cleaning the inside. Never use these to clean your vehicle:

Gasoline Benzene 0 Naphtha 0 Carbon Tetrachloride

Acetone Paint Thinner Turpentine Lacquer Thinner Nail Polish Remover

They can all be hazardous -- some more than others -- and they can all damage your vehicle, too.


Don’t use any of these unless this manual says you can. In many uses, these will damage your vehicle:

Alcohol Laundry Soap Bleach Reducing Agents

Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle Use a vacuum cleaner often to get rid of dust and loose dirt. Wipe vinyl or leather with a clean, damp cloth. Your GM dealer has two GM cleaners, a solvent-type spot lifter and a foam-type powdered cleaner. They will clean normal spots and stains very well. Do not use them on vinyl or leather. Here are some cleaning tips:

Always read the instructions on the cleaner label. Clean up stains as soon as you can -- before they set. Use a clean cloth or sponge, and change to a clean area often. A soft brush may be used if stains are stubborn.


0 Use solvent-type cleaners in a well-ventilated area

only. If you use them, don’t saturate the stained area. If a ring forms after spot cleaning, clean the entire area immediately or it will set.

Using Foam-Type Cleaner on Fabric 1. 2.

Vacuum and brush the area to remove any loose dirt. Always clean a whole trim panel or section. Mask surrounding trim along stitch or welt lines. Mix Multi-Purpose Powdered Cleaner following the directions on the container label. Use suds only and apply with a clean sponge. Don’t saturate the material. Don’t rub it roughly. As soon as you’ve cleaned the section, use a sponge to remove the suds. Rinse the section with a clean, wet sponge. Wipe off what’s left with a slightly damp paper towel or cloth. Then dry it immediately with a blow dryer. Wipe with a clean cloth.


4. 5. 6. 7.

8. 9.

10. 11.

Special Cleaning Problems Greasy or Oily Stains Stains caused by grease, oil, butter, margarine, shoe polish, coffee with cream, chewing gum, cosmetic creams, vegetable oils, wax crayon, tar and asphalt can be removed as follows: 1. Carefully scrape off excess stain. 2. Follow the solvent-type instructions

described earlier.

3. Shoe polish, wax crayon, tar and asphalt will stain

if left on a vehicle’s seat fabric. They should be removed as soon as possible. Be careful, because the cleaner will dissolve them and may cause them to spread.

Using Solvent-Type Cleaner on Fabric First, see if you have to use solvent-type cleaner at all. Some spots and stains will clean off better with just water and mild soap.

- . If you need to use a solvent:

0 Gently scrape excess soil from the trim material with a clean, dd1 knife or scraper. Use very little cleaner, light pressure and clean cloths (preferably cheesecloth). Cleaning should start at the outside of the stain, “feathering”’ toward the center. Keep changing to a clean section of the cloth.

0 When you clean a stain from fabric, immediately dry the area with a blow dryer to help prevent a cleaning ring.

Fabric Protection Your vehicle has upholstery and carpet that has been . treated with Scotchgard“ Fabric Protector, a 3M product. It protects fabrics by repelling oil and water, which are the carriers of most stains. Even with this protection, you still need to clean your upholstery and carpet often to keep it looking new. Further information on cleaning is available by calling 1-800-433-3296 (in Minnesota, 1-800-642-61 67).

6-5 1

Cleaning Vinyl Use warm water and a clean cloth. 0 Rub with a clean, damp cloth to remove dirt. You

may have to do it more than once.

0 Things like tar, asphalt and shoe polish will stain if

you don’t get them off quickly. Use a clean cloth and a GM VinylLeather Cleaner or equivalent product.

Cleaning Leather Use a soft cloth with lukewarm water and a mild soap or saddle soap. 0 For stubborn stains, use a GM Vinylkeather Cleaner

or equivalent product.

0 Never use oils, varnishes, solvent-based or abrasive cleaners, furniture polish or shoe polish on leather.

0 Soiled leather should be cleaned immediately. If dirt is allowed to work into the finish, it can harm the leather.



Non-Greasy Stains Stains caused by catsup, coffee (black), egg, fruit, fruit juice, milk, soft drinks, wine, vomit, urine and blood can be removed as follows: 1.

Carefully scrape off excess stain, then sponge the soiled area with cool water. If a stain remains, follow the foam-type instructions described earlier. If an odor lingers after cleaning vomit or urine, treat the area with a waterhaking soda solution: 1 teaspoon (5 ml) of baking soda to 1 cup (250 ml) of lukewarm water. If needed, clean lightly with solvent-type cleaner.

4. Combination Stains Stains caused by candy, ice cream, mayonnaise, chili sauce and unknown stains can be removed as follows: 0 Carefully scrape off excess stain, then clean with

cool water and allow to dry.

0 If a stain remains, clean it with solvent-type cleaner.


Cleaning the Top of the Instrument Panel Use only mild soap and water to clean the top surfaces of the instrument panel.. Sprays containing silicones or waxes may cause annoying reflections in the windshield and even make it difficult to see through the windshield under certain conditions. Care of Safety Belts Keep belts clean and dry.

Do not bleach or dye safety belts. If you do, it may severely weaken them. In a crash, they might not be able to provide adequate protection. Clean safety belts only with mild soap and lukewarm water.


Glass Glass should be cleaned often. GM Glass Cleaner (GM Part No. 1050427) or a liquid household glass cleaner will remove normal tobacco smoke and dust films.

Don’t use abrasive cleaners on glass, because they may cause scratches. Avoid placing decals on the inside rear window, since they may have to be scraped off later. If abrasive cleaners are used on the inside of the rear window, an electric defogger element may be damaged. Any temporary license should not be attached across the defogger grid. Cleaning the Outside of the Windshield, Backglass and Wiper Blades If the windshield is not clear after using the windshield washer, or if the wiper blade chatters when running, wax or other material may be on the blade or windshield. Clean the outside of the windshield with GM Windshield Cleaner, Bon-Ami Powder@ (GM Part No. 105001 1). The windshield is clean if beads do not form when you rinse it with water. Clean the blade by wiping vigorously with a cloth soaked in full-strength windshield washer solvent. Then rinse the blade with water.. Wiper blades should be checked on a regular basis and replaced when worn.


Weatherstrips Silicone grease on weatherstrips will make them last longer, seal better, and not stick or squeak. Apply silicone grease with a clean cloth at least every six months. During very cold, damp weather more frequent application may be required. (See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.) Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle The paint finish on your vehicle provides beauty, depth of color, gloss retention and durability. Washing Your Vehicle The best way to preserve your vehicle’s finish is to keep it clean by washing it often with lukewarm or cold water. Don’t wash your vehicle in the direct rays of the sun. Don’t use strong soaps or chemical detergents. Use liquid hand, dish or car washing (mild detergent) soaps. Don’t use cleaning agents that are petroleum based, or that contain acid or abrasives. All cleaning agents should be flushed promptly and not allowed to dry on the surface, or they could stain. Dry the finish with a

soft, clean chamois or a 100% cotton towel to avoid surface scratches and water spotting. High pressure vehicle washes may cause water to enter your vehicle. Finish Care Occasional waxing or mild polishing of your vehicle by hand may be necessary to remove residue from the paint finish. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. (See “Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index.) Your vehicle has a 44basecoat/clearcoat” paint finish. The clearcoat gives more depth and gloss to the colored basecoat. Always use waxes and polishes that are non-abrasive and made for a basecoatklearcoat paint finish.


Machine compounding or aggressive polishing on a basecoatklearcoat paint finish may dull the finish or leave swirl marks.


Aluminum Wheels (If So Equipped) Keep your wheels clean using a soft clean cloth with mild soap and water. Rinse with clean water. After rinsing thoroughly, dry with a soft clean towel. A wax may then be applied. The surface of these wheels is similar to the painted surface of your vehicle. Don’t use strong soaps, chemicals, abrasive polishes, abrasive cleaners or abrasive cleaning brushes on them because you could damage the surface. Don’t take your vehicle through an automatic vehicle wash that has silicon carbide tire cleaning brushes. These brushes can also damage the surface of these wheels.

Foreign materials such as calcium chloride and other salts, ice melting agents, road oil and tar, tree sap, bird droppings, chemicals from industrial chimneys, etc., can damage your vehicle’s finish if they remain on painted surfaces. Wash the vehicle as soon as possible. If necessary, use non-abrasive cleaners that are marked safe for painted surfaces to remove foreign matter. Exterior painted surfaces are subject to aging, weather and chemical fallout that can take their toll over a period of years. You can help to keep the paint finish looking new by keeping your vehicle garaged or covered whenever possible. Protecting Exterior Bright Metal Parts Bright metal parts should be cleaned regularly to keep their luster. Washing with water is all that is usually needed. However, you may use GM Chrome Polish on chrome or stainless steel trim, if necessary. Use special care with aluminum trim. To avoid damaging protective trim, never use auto or chrome polish, steam or caustic soap to clean aluminum. A coating of wax, rubbed to high polish, is recommended for all bright metal parts.


Tires To clean your tires, use a stiff brush with a tire cleaner.


When applying a tire dressing always take care to wipe off any overspray or splash from all painted surfaces on the body or wheels of the vehicle. Petroleum-based products may damage the paint finish.

Sheet Metal Damage If your vehicle is damaged and requires sheet metal repair or replacement, make sure the body repair shop applies anti-corrosion material to the parts repaired or replaced to restore corrosion protection.

Finish Damage Any stone chips, fractures or deep scratches in the finish should be repaired right away. Bare metal will corrode quickly and may develop into a major repair expense. Minor chips and scratches can be repaired with touch-up materials available from your dealer or other service outlets. Larger areas of finish damage can be corrected in your dealer’s body and paint shop. Underbody Maintenance Chemicals used for ice and snow removal and dust control can collect on the underbody. If these are not removed, accelerated corrosion (rust) can occur on the underbody parts such as fuel lines, frame, floor pan and exhaust system even though they have corrosion protection. At least every spring, flush these materials from the underbody with plain water. Clean any areas where mud and other debris can collect. Dirt packed in closed areas of the frame should be loosened before being flushed. Your dealer or an underbody vehicle washing system can do this for you.


Fiberglass Springs


Don’t use corrosive or acidic cleaning agents, engine degreasers, aluminum cleaning agents or other harsh solvents to clean fiberglass springs; they’ll damage the springs.

Chemical Paint Spotting Some weather and atmospherkconditions can create a chemical fallout. Airborne pollutants can fall upon and attack painted surfaces on your vehicle. This damage can take two forms: blotchy, ringlet-shaped discolorations, and small irregular dark spots etched into the paint surface. Although no defect in the paint job causes this, GM will repair, at no charge to the owner, the surfaces of new vehicles damaged by this fallout condition within 12 months or 12,000 miles (20 000 km) of purchase, whichever occurs first.


Appearance Care Materials Chart



1050004 1050172 1050173 10501 74 I05020 1 1050214 1050427 1050429 105 1398” 1051515 1052870 1052918** 1052929 1052930

2.75 sq. ft. oz. (0.473 L) oz. (0.473 L) 16 oz. (0.473 L) 16 oz. (0.473 L) 32 oz. (0.946 L) oz. (0.680 L) 6 lbs. (2.72 kg) 8 oz. (0.237 L) 32 oz. (0.946 L) 16 oz. (0.473 L) I 8 oz. (0.237 L) oz. (0.473 L) 8 oz. (0.237 L) 16 oz. (0.473 L) 12 oz. (0.354 L)



Tar and Road Oil Remover 16 Chrome Cleaner and Polish 16

Magic Mirror Cleaner Polish Vinyl and Leather Cleaner



Shines vehicle without scratching

Also removes old waxes and polishes

Removes rust and corrosion Removes soil and black marks White Sidewall Tire Cleaner

Exterior cleaner and polish

Spot and stain removal

Glass Cleaner 23

Multi-Purpose Powdered Cleaner

Cleans grease, grime and smoke film Cleans vinyl, cloth, tires and mats

Spot Lifter Optikleen

Wash and Wax Concentrate

Armor All TM Protector

Capture Dry Spot Remover

For cloth

Windshield washer solvent and antifreeze


Exterior wash vinyl, and leather rubber Spray on wheel cleaner Wheel Cleaner 16 Attracts and absorbs soils

12345002** 12345725 Shines tires

Armor All Cleaner Silicone Tire Shine

See your General Motors Parts Department for these products. See “Fluids and Lubricants’’ in the Index.


Cleans vinyl, leather and rubber

* Not recommended for pigskin suede leather. **Not recommended for use on instrument panel vinyl.

Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)





t ‘


This is the legal identifier for your vehicle. It appears on a plate in the front corner of the instrument panel, on the driver’s side. You can see it if yo11 look through the windshield from outside your vehicle. The VIN also appears on the Vehicle Certification and Service Parts labels and the certificates of title and registration. Engine Identification The eighth character in your VIN is the engine code. This code will help you identify your engine, specifications and replacement parts.

Service Parts Identification Label You’ll find this label on the inside of the front storage compartment door. It’s very helpful if you ever need to order parts. On this label is:

your VIN, the model designation, paint information, and

0 a list of all production options and special equipment. Be sure that this label is not rqmoved from the vehicle.


Electrical System Add-on Electrical Equipment


Don’t add anything electrical to your vehicle unless you check with your dealer first, Some electrical equipment can damage your vehicle and the damage wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Some add-on electrical equipment can keep other components from working as they should.

Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to add anything electrical to your vehicle, see “Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped Vehicle” in the Index.

Headlamp Wiring The headlamp wiring is protected by a circuit breaker in the lamp switch. An electrical overload will cause the lamps to go on and off, or in some cases to remain off. If this happens, have your headlamp wiring checked right away. Windshield Wiper Fuses The windshield wiper motor is protected by a circuit breaker and a fuse. If the motor overheats due to heavy snow, etc., the wiper will stop until the motor cools. If the overload is caused by some electricai problem and not snow, etc.; be sure to get it fixed. Power Windows and Other Power Options Circuit breakers in the fuse panel protect the power windows and other power accessories. When the current load is too heavy, the circuit breaker opens and closes, protecting the circuit until the problem is fixed or goes away.


Fuses and Circuit Breakers The wiring circuits in your vehicle are protected from short circuits by a combination of fuses, circuit breakers and fusible thermal links. This greatly reduces the chance of fires caused by electrical problems. Look at the silver-colored band inside the fuse. If the band is broken or melted, replace the fuse. Be sure you replace a bad fuse with a new one of the identical size and rating. If you ever have a problem on the road and don’t have a spare fuse, you can borrow one that has the same amperage. Just pick some feature of your vehicle that you can get along without -- like the radio or cigarette lighter -- and use its fuse, if it is the correct amperage. Replace it as soon as you can. There are two fuse blocks in your vehicle: one is inside the vehicle and one is in the engine compartment.

Instrument Panel Fuse Block

The fuse block is on the lower portion of the instrument panel on the driver’s side. You can remove fuses with a fuse extractor. To remove fuses if you don’t have a fuse extractor, hold the end of the fuse between your thumb and index finger and pull straight out.








c57 c 7 E 7 c 7 4 c 7 c 7 E 7 E 7





C 7 E 7 E 7 C 7



20 i c 7

2 c 7 c87 c 7 c 3 c 7 c 7 c 7



FuseKircuit Usage



Stop/Turn/Hazard Lamps, CHMSL, Chime Module No Fuse-Resistor Courtesy Lamps, Power Outside Mirrors, Glove Box Lamp, Dome Reading Lamps, Vanity Mirror Lamps

FuseKircuit Usage


10 11 12


DRL Relay, DRL Module, Chime Headlamp Switch, Keyless Entry, Cluster, Overhead Console Not Used Cruise Module, Cruise Activator Switch Power Outlets, ALDL, Subwoofer Amplifier Not Used License Plate Lamp, Taillamps, Parking Lamps, Ashtray Lamp, Panel Lights, Trailer Taillamps, Front and Rear Sidemarker Lamps, Door Switch Illumination, Headlamp Switch Illumination, RSA Illumination Air Bag System Wiper Motor, Washer Pump L, M 1, M2 Blower Motor, Rear A/C Relay Coil, Front Cont, Temp. Door Motor, Hi Blower Relay, Defogger Timer Coil, Upfitter Relay Coil Cigarette Lighter, Door Lock Relay

Fuse/Circuit Usage



Cluster HVAC Controls, Chime Module, Radio Illumination, Rear Heat Switch Illumination, Rear WiperNasher Switch Illumination, Rear Liftgate Switch Illumination, Remote Cassette Illumination, OH Console DRL Lamps Front Turn Signals, Rear Turn Signals, Trailer Turn Signals, Back-up Lamps, BTSI Solenoid Radio: ATC (Standby), 2000 Series (Main Feed), Rear Seat Audio Controls VCM-Ign 3, VCM- Brake, 4WAL, Cruise Stepper Motor Radio: ATC (Main Feed), 2000 Series (Standby)

15 16

', 17



Fuse/Circuit Usage



21 22 23 24

PRNDLI Odometer, TCC Enable and PWM Solenoids, Shift A and Shift B Solenoids, 3-2 Downshift Solenoids Not Used Not Used Rear Wiper, Rear Washer Pump Not Used (Circuit Breaker) Power Door Lock, 6-way Power Seat, Keyless Entry Module, Dutch Door Module, Dutch Door Release (Circuit Breaker) Power Windows


Underhood Electrical Center

The underhood electrical center is located toward the rear of the engine compartment on the driver's side. Lift the hood and open the cover to gain access to this fuse block.


1 (-)

I-) (-1 [-) (T) E3 IIVC) (-)


. . Upfitter Battery Feed . . Upfitter Ignition Feed

Feed AUXB . . . . . . AUX A . . . . . , . . Relay A/C Relay IGN Relay Starter Enable Relay A/C Enable Relay Empty Relay Fuel Pump Relay

Fuse UPFIT-BATT .......

.. ..

UPFIT-IGN . . Spare . . . . . Fuse Puller* Spare ............. Spare . . . . . . . . . . . . . ECM-B . . . . . . . . . . . .

HORN ...... . . A/C COMP ... RR DEFOG ....... ..

ENG-I . . . . . .


Usage Upfitter Battery Power Stud, Trailer Wiring Harness Upfitter Ignition Relay Not Used

Not Used Not Used Fuel Pump Relay, VCM, Oil Pressure Switch/Sender Horn Relay A/C Enable Relay Heater-A/C Control Selector Switch Oxygen Sensors 1-4, Camshaft Position Sensor, Mass Air Flow Sensor, Evaporative Emission Canister Purge Solenoid Valve, Linear EGR Valve Solenoid, VCM A/C Enable Relay

Fuse ECM-I . . . . . .....

LIGHTING . . . . .

BATT I/P . . . . . . .

IGN A . . . . . . . . . . . . . IGN B . . . . . . . . . . . . . ABS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . AIC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Usage Fuel Injectors 1-6, Crankshaft Position Sensor, VCM, Distributor Ignition Control Module Park Lamps Fuse, DRL Fuse, Headlamp and Panel Dimmer Switch Fuse Block Fuses, Power Seat CB, Stop/Hazard Fuse, Auxiliary Power Fuse, Cigarette Lighter Fuse, Radio, Battery Fuse Starter Relay, Ignition Switch Ignition Switch Brake Pressure Module Valve Blower Motor Resistor, Blower Relay Auxiliary Heater A/C Relay Not Used

RR HTR/AC . . . . . . . . Spare . . . . . . . . . . . . . * A fuse puller is included in the underhood electrical center. You will also find spare fuses.


Replacement Bulbs

Exterior Lamps Halogen Headlamps - Sealed Beam Halogen Headlamps - Composite