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The amount of alcohol consumed


0 The drinker’s body weight


The amount of food that is consumed before and during drinking The length of time it has taken the drinker to consume the alcohol.


According to the American Medical Association, a 180-lb. (82 kg) person who drinks three 12-ounce (355 ml) bottles of beer in an hour will end up with a BAC of about 0.06 percent. The person would reach the same BAC by drinking three 4-ounce (120 ml) glasses of wine or three mixed drinks if each had 1- 1/2 ounces (45 ml) of a liquor like whiskey, gin or vodka.


Since alcohol is carried in body water, this means that a woman generally will reach a higher BAC level than a man of her same body weight when each has the same number of drinks. The law in many U.S. states sets the legal limit at a BAC of 0.10 percent. In a growing number of U.S. states, and throughout Canada, the limit is 0.08 percent. In some other countries, it’s even lower. The BAC limit for all commercial drivers in the United States is 0.04 percent. The BAC will be over 0.10 percent after three to six drinks (in one hour). Of course, as we’ve seen, it depends on how much alcohol is in the drinks, and how quickly the person drinks them. But the ability to drive is affected well below a BAC of 0.10 percent. Research shows that the driving skills of many people are impaired at a BAC approaching 0.05 percent, and that the effects are worse at night. All drivers are impaired at BAC levels above 0.05 percent. Statistics show that the chance of being in a collision increases sharply for drivers who have a BAC of 0.05 percent or above. A driver with a BAC level of 0.06 percent has doubled his or her chance of having a collision. At a BAC level of 0.10 percent, the chance of this driver having a collision is 12 times greater; at a level of 0.15 percent, the chance is 25 times greater!


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It’s the amount of alcohol that counts. For example, if the same person drank three double martinis (3 ounces or 90 ml of liquor each) within an hour, the person’s BAC would be close to 0.12 percent. A person who consumes food just before or during drinking will have a somewhat lower BAC level. There is a gender difference, too. Women generally have a lower relative percentage of body water than men.


The body takes about an hour to rid itself of the alcohol in one drink. No amount of coffee or number of cold showers will speed that up. “I’ll be careful” isn’t the right answer. What if there’s an emergency, a need to take sudden action, as when a child darts into the street? A person with even a moderate BAC might not be able to react quickly enough to avoid the collision. There’s something else about drinking and driving that many people don’t know. Medical research shows that alcohol in a person’s system can make crash injuries worse, especially injuries to the brain, spinal cord or heart. This means that when anyone who has been , drinking -- driver or passenger -- is in a crash, that person’s chance of being killed or permanently disabled is higher than if the person had not been drinking.


Drinking and then driving is very dangerous. Your reflexes, perceptions, attentiveness and of alcohol. You can have a serious -- or even judgment can be affected by even a small amount fatal -- collision if you drive after drinking. Please don’t drink and drive or ride with a driver who has been drinking. Ride home in a cab; or if you’re with a group, designate a driver who will not drink.


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Control of a Vehicle You have three systems that make your vehicle go where you want it to go. They are the brakes, the steering and the accelerator. All three systems have to do their work at the places where the tires meet the road.


Braking Braking action involves perception time and reaction time. First, you have to decide to push on the brake pedal. That’s perception time. Then you have to bring up your foot and do it. That’s reaction time. Average reaction time is about 3/4 of a second. But that’s only an average. It might be less with one driver and as long as two or three seconds or more with another. Age, physical condition, alertness, coordination and eyesight all play a part. So do alcohol, drugs and frustration. But even in 3/4 of a second, a vehicle moving at 60 mph (1 00 km/h) travels 66 feet (20 m). That could be a lot of distance in an emergency, so keeping enough space between your vehicle and others is important. And, of course, actual stopping distances vary greatly with the surface of the road (whether it’s pavement or gravel); the condition of the road (wet, dry, icy); tire tread; and the condition of your brakes.


Sometimes, as when you’re driving on snow or ice, it’s easy to ask more of those control systems than the tires and road can provide. That means you can lose control of your vehicle.


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Avoid needless heavy braking. Some people drive in spurts -- heavy acceleration followed by heavy braking -- rather than keeping pace with traffic. This is a mistake. Your brakes may not have time to cool between hard stops. Your brakes will wear out much faster if you do a lot of heavy braking. If you keep pace with the traffic and allow realistic following distances, you will eliminate a lot of unnecessary braking. That means better braking and longer brake life. If your engine ever stops while you’re driving, brake normally but don’t pump your brakes. If you do, the pedal may get harder to push down. If your engine stops, you will still have some power brake assist. But you will use it when you brake. Once the power assist is used up, it may take longer to stop and the brake pedal will be harder to push.


Anti-Lock Brakes Your vehicle has anti-lock brakes (ABS). ABS is an advanced electronic braking system that will help prevent a braking skid. When you start your engine and begin to drive away, your anti-lock brake system will check itself. You may hear a momentary motor or clicking noise while this test is going on. This is normal,


If there’s a problem with the anti-lock brake system, this warning light will stay on. See “Anti-Lock Brake System Warning Light” in the Index.


ANTI - LOCK


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The anti-lock system can change the brake pressure faster than any driver could. The computer is programmed to make the most of available tire and road conditions.


Here’s how anti-lock works. Let’s say the road is wet. You’re driving safely. Suddenly an animal jumps out in front of you. You slam on the brakes. Here’s what happens with ABS. A computer senses that wheels are slowing down. If one of the wheels is about to stop rolling, the computer will separately work the brakes at each front wheel and at the rear wheels.


You can steer around the obstacle while braking hard. As you brake, your computer keeps receiving updates on wheel speed and controls braking pressure accordingly.


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Remember: Anti-lock doesn’t change the time you need to get your foot up to the brake pedal or always decrease stopping distance. If you get too close to the vehicle in front of you, you won’t have time to apply your brakes if that vehicle suddenly slows or stops. Always leave enough room up ahead to stop, even though you have anti-lock brakes.


Using Anti-Lock Don’t pump the brakes. Just hold the brake pedal down and let anti-lock work for you. You may feel the brakes vibrate, or you may notice some noise, but this is normal. Braking in Emergencies Use your anti-lock braking system when you need to. With anti-lock, you can steer and brake at the same time. In many emergencies, steering can help you more than even the very best braking. Steering Power Steering If you lose power steering assist because the engine stops or the system is not functioning, you can steer but it will take much more effort,


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Steering Tips


Driving on Curves It’s important to take curves at a reasonable speed. A lot of the “driver lost control’’ accidents mentioned on the news happen on curves. Here’s why: Experienced driver or beginner, each of us is subject to the same laws of physics when driving on curves. The traction of the tires against the road surface makes it possible for the vehicle to change its path when you turn the front wheels. If there’s no traction, inertia will keep the vehicle going in the same direction. If you’ve ever tried to steer a vehicle on wet ice, you’ll understand this. The traction you can get in a curve depends on the condition of your tires and the road surface, the angle at which the curve is banked, and your speed. While you’re in a curve, speed is the one factor you can control. Suppose you’re steering through a sharp curve. Then you suddenly accelerate. Both control systems -- steering and acceleration -- have to do their work where the tires meet the road. Adding the sudden acceleration can demand too much of those places. You can lose control. What should you do if this ever happens? Ease up on the accelerator pedal, steer the vehicle the way you want it to go, and slow down.


Speed limit signs near curves warn that you should adjust your speed. Of course, the posted speeds are based on,good weather and road conditions. Under less favorable conditions you’ll want to go slower. If you need to reduce your speed as you approach a curve, do it before you enter the curve, while your front wheels are straight ahead. Try to adjust your speed so you can “drive” through the curve. Maintain a reasonable, steady speed. Wait to accelerate until you are out of the curve, and then accelerate gently into the straightaway. Steering in Emergencies There are times when steering can be more effective than braking. For example, you come over a hill and find a truck stopped in your lane, or a car suddenly pulls out from nowhere, or a child darts out from between parked cars and stops right in front of you. You can avoid these problems by braking -- if you can stop in time. But sometimes you can’t; there isn’t room. That’s the time for evasive action -- steering around the problem. Your vehicle can perform very well in emergencies like these. First apply your brakes. (See “Braking in Emergencies’’ earlier in this section.) It is better to remove as much speed as you can from a possible collision. Then steer around the problem, to the left or right depending on the space available.


An emergency like this requires close attention and a quick decision. If you are holding the steering wheel at the recommended 9 and 3 o’clock positions, you can turn it a full 180 degrees very quickly without removing either hand. But you have to act fast, steer quickly, and just as quickly straighten the wheel once you have avoided the object. The fact that such emergency situations are always possible is a good reason to practice defensive driving at all times and wear safety belts properly.


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Off-Road Recovery You may find sometime that your right wheels have dropped off the edge of a road onto the shoulder while you’re driving.


If the level of the shoulder is only slightly below the pavement, recovery should be fairly easy. Ease off the accelerator and then, if there is nothing in the way, steer so that your vehicle straddles the edge of the pavement. You can turn the steering wheel up to one-quarter turn until the right front tire contacts the pavement edge. Then turn your steering wheel to go straight down the roadway. 4-10


Passing The driver of a vehicle about to pass another on a two-lane highway waits for just the right moment, accelerates, moves around the vehicle ahead, then goes back into the right lane again. A simple maneuver? Not necessarily! Passing another vehicle on a two-lane highway is a potentially dangerous move, since the passing vehicle occupies the same lane as oncoming traffic for several seconds. A miscalculation, an error in judgment, or a brief surrender to frustration or anger can suddenly put the passing driver face to face with the worst of all traffic accidents -- the head-on collision. So here are some tips for passing: 0 “Drive ahead.” Look down the road, to the sides and to crossroads for situations that might affect your passing patterns. If you have any doubt w’hatsoever about making a successful pass, wait for a better time.


0 Watch for traffic signs, pavement markings and lines. If you can see a sign up ahead that might indicate a turn or an intersection, delay your pass. A broken center line usually indicates it’s all right to pass (providing the road ahead is clear). Never cross a solid line on your side of the lane or a double solid line, even if the road seems empty of approaching traffic.


0 Do not get too close to the vehicle you want to


pass while you’re awaiting an opportunity. For one thing, following too closely reduces your area of vision, especially if you’re following a larger vehicle. Also, you won’t have adequate space if the vehicle ahead suddenly slows or stops. Keep back a reasonable distance.


0 When it looks like a chance to pass is coming up,


start to accelerate but stay in the right lane and don’t get too close. Time your move so you will be increasing speed as the time comes to move into the other lane. If the way is clear to pass, you will have a “running start” that more than makes up for the distance you would lose by dropping back. And if something happens to cause you to cancel your pass, you need only slow down and drop back again and wait for another opportunity. If other cars are lined up to pass a slow vehicle, wait your turn. But take care that someone isn’t trying to pass you as you pull out to pass the slow vehicle. Remember to glance over your shoulder and check the blind spot.


Check your mirrors, glance over your shoulder and start your left lane change signal before moving out of the right lane to pass. When you are far enough ahead of the passed vehicle to see its front in your inside mirror, activate your right lane change signal and move back into,the right lane. (Remember that your right outside mirror is convex. The vehicle you just passed may seem to be farther away from you than it really is.)


0 Try not to pass more than one vehicle at a time


on two-lane roads. Reconsider before passing the next vehicle.


0 Don’t overtake a slowly moving vehicle too rapidly. Even though the brake lamps are not flashing, it may be slowing down or starting to turn.


0 If you’re being passed, make it easy for the


following driver to get ahead of you. Perhaps you can ease a little to the right.


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Loss of Control Let’s review what driving experts say about what happens when the three control systems (brakes, steering and acceleration) don’t have enough friction where the tires meet the road to do what the driver has asked. In any emergency, don’t give up. Keep trying to steer and constantly seek an escape route or area of less danger. Skidding In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle. Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking reasonable care suited to existing conditions, and by not “overdriving” those conditions. But skids are always possible. The three types of skids correspond to your vehicle’s three control systems. In the braking skid, your wheels aren’t rolling. In the steering or cornering skid, too muchspeed or steering in a curve causes tires to slip and lose cornering force. And in the acceleration skid, too much throttle causes the driving wheels to spin. A cornering skid and an acceleration skid are best handled by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal.


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If your vehicle starts to slide, ease your foot off the accelerator pedal and quickly steer the way you want the vehicle to go. If you start steering quickly enough, your vehicle may straighten out. Always be ready for a second skid if it occurs. Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice, gravel or other material is on the road. For safety, you’ll want to slow down and adjust your driving to these conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and vehicle control more limited. While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try your best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration or braking (including engine braking by shifting to a lower gear). Any sudden changes could cause the tires to slide. You may not realize the surface is slippery until your vehicle is skidding. Learn to recognize warning clues -- such as enough water, ice or packed snow on the road to make a “mirrored surface” -- and slow down when you have any doubt. Remember: Any anti-lock brake system (ABS) helps avoid only the braking skid.


Driving at Night


Adjust your inside rearview mirror to reduce the glare from headlamps behind you.


0 Since you can’t see as well, you may need to slow down and keep more space between you and other vehicles.


0 Slow down, especially on higher speed roads. Your


headlamps can light up only so much road ahead. In remote areas, watch for animals. If you’re tired, pull off the road in a safe place and rest.


Night driving is more dangerous than day driving. One reason is that some drivers are likely to be impaired -- by alcohol or drugs, with night vision problems, or by fatigue. Here are some tips on night driving. 0 Drive defensively.


Don’t drink and drive.


Night Vision No one can see as well at night as in the daytime. But as we get older these differences increase. A 50-year-old driver may require at least twice as much light to see the same thing at night as a 20-year-old. What you do in the daytime can also affect your night vision. For example, if you spend the day in bright sunshine you are wise to wear sunglasses. Your eyes will have less trouble adjusting to night. But if you’re driving, don’t wear sunglasses at night. They may cut down on glare from headlamps, but they also make a lot of things invisible.


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You can be temporarily blinded by approaching headlamps. It can take a second or two, or even several seconds, for your eyes to readjust to the dark. When you are faced with severe glare (as from a driver who doesn’t lower the high beams, or a vehicle with misaimed headlamps), slow down a little. Avoid staring directly into the approaching headlamps. Keep your windshield and all the glass on your vehicle clean -- inside and out. Glare at night is made much worse by dirt on the glass. Even the inside of the glass can build up a film caused by dust. Dirty glass makes lights dazzle and flash more than clean glass would, making the pupils of your eyes contract repeatedly. Remember that your headlamps light up far less of a roadway when you are in a turn or curve. Keep your eyes moving; that way, it’s easier to pick out dimly lighted objects. Just as your headlamps should be checked regularly for proper aim, so should your eyes be examined regularly. Some drivers suffer from night blindness -- the inability to see in dim light -- and aren’t even aware of it.


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Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads


Rain and wet roads can mean driving trouble. On a wet road, you can’t stop, accelerate or turn as well because your tire-to-road traction isn’t as good as on dry roads. And, if your tires don’t have much tread left, you’ll get even less traction. It’s always wise to go slower and be cautious if rain starts to fall while you are driving. The surface may get wet suddenly when your reflexes are tuned for driving on dry pavement.


The heavier the rain, the harder it is to see. Even if your windshield wiper blades are in good shape, a heavy rain can make it harder to see road signs and traffic signals, pavement markings, the edge of the road and even people walking. It’s wise to keep your wiping equipment in good shape and keep your windshield washer tank filled with washer fluid. Replace your windshield wiper inserts when they show signs of streaking or missing areas on the windshield, or when strips of rubber start to separate from the inserts.


Driving too fast through large water puddles or even going through some car washes can cause problems, too. The water may affect your brakes. Try to avoid puddles. But if you can’t, try to slow down before you hit them.


Wet brakes can cause accidents. They won’t work well in a quick stop and may cause pulling to one side. You could lose control of the vehicle. After driving through a large puddle of water or a car wash, apply your brake pedal lightly until your brakes work normally.


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Hydroplaning Hydroplaning is dangerous. So much water can build up under your tires that they can actually ride on the water. This can happen if the road is wet enough and you’re going fast enough. When your vehicle is hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road. Hydroplaning doesn’t happen often. But it can if your tires haven’t much tread or if the pressure in one or more is low. It can happen if a lot of water is standing on the road. If you can see reflections from trees, telephone poles or other vehicles, and raindrops “dimple” the water’s surface, there could be hydroplaning. Hydroplaning usually happens at higher speeds. There just isn’t a hard and fast rule about hydroplaning. The best advice is to slow down when it is raining.


Driving Through Deep Standing Water


NOTICE:


If you drive too quickly through deep puddles or standing water, water can come in through your engine’s air intake and badly damage your engine. Never drive through water that is slightly lower than the underbody of your vehicle. If you can’t avoid deep puddles or standing water, drive through them very slowly.


Some Other Rainy Weather Tips 0 Besides slowing down, allow some extra following distance. And be especially careful when you pass another vehicle. Allow yourself more clear room ahead, and be prepared to have your view restricted by road spray.


0 Have good tires with proper tread depth. (See


“Tires’’ in the Index.)


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City Driving


One of the biggest problems with city streets is the amount of traffic on them. You’ll want to watch out for what the other drivers are doing and pay attention to traffic signals. Here are ways to increase your safety in city driving:


Know the best way to get to where you are going. Get a city map and plan your trip into an unknown part of the city just as you would for a cross-country trip. Try to use the freeways that rim and crisscross most large cities. You’ll save time and energy. (See the next part, “Freeway Driving.”)


0 Treat a green light as a warning signal. A traffic light is


there because the corner is busy enough to need it. When a light turns green, and just before you start to move, check both ways for vehicles that have not cleared the intersection or may be running the red light.


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Freeway Driving


Mile for mile, freeways (also called thruways, parkways, expressways, turnpikes or superhighways) are the safest of all roads. But they have their own special rules.


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The most important advice on freeway driving is: Keep up with traffic and keep to the right. Drive at the same speed most of the other drivers are driving. Too-fast or too-slow driving breaks a smooth traffic flow. Treat the left lane on a freeway as a passing lane. At the entrance, there is usually a ramp that leads to the freeway. If you have a clear view of the freeway as you drive along the entrance ramp, you should begin to check traffic. Try to determine where you expect to blend with the flow. Try to merge into the gap at close to the prevailing speed. Switch on your turn signal, check your mirrors and glance over your shoulder as often as necessary. Try to blend smoothly with the traffic flow. Once you are on the freeway, adjust your speed to the posted limit or to the prevailing rate if it's slower. Stay in the right lane unless you want to pass. Before changing lanes, check your mirrors. Then use your turn signal. Just before you leave the lane, glance quickly over your shoulder to make sure there isn't another vehicle in your "blind" spot.


Once you are moving on the freeway, make certain you allow a reasonable following distance. Expect to move slightly slower at night. When you want to leave the freeway, move to the proper lane well in advance. If you miss your exit, do not, under any circumstances, stop and back up. Drive on to the next exit. The exit ramp can be curved, sometimes quite sharply. The exit speed is usually posted. Reduce your speed according to your speedometer, not to your sense of motion. After driving for any distance at higher speeds, you may tend to think you are going slower than you actually are. Before Leaving on a Long Trip Make sure you’re ready. Try to be well rested. If you must start when you’re not fresh -- such as after a day’s work -- don’t plan to make too many miles that first part of the journey. Wear comfortable clothing and shoes you can easily drive in.


Is your vehicle ready for a long trip? If you keep it serviced and maintained, it’s ready to go. If it needs service, have it done before starting out. Of course, you’ll find experienced and able service experts in GM dealers all across North America. They’ll be ready and willing to help if you need it. Here are some things you can check before a trip:


Windshield WcrslTer Fluid: Is the reservoir full? Are all windows clean inside and outside? Wiper Blades: Are they in good shape? Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: Have you checked all levels? Lamps: Are they all working? Are the lenses clean? Tires: They are vitally important to a safe, trouble-free trip. Is the tread good enough for long-distance driving? Are the tires all inflated to the recommended pressure? Weather Forecasts: What’s the weather outlook along your route? Should you delay your trip a short time to avoid a major storm system? Maps: Do you have up-to-date maps?


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Hill and Mountain Roads


Driving on steep hills or mountains is different from driving in flat or rolling terrain.


Highway Hypnosis Is there actually such a condition as “highway hypnosis”? Or is it just plain falling asleep at the wheel? Call it highway hypnosis, lack of awareness, or whatever. There is something about an easy stretch of road with the same scenery, along with the hum of the tires on the road, the drone of the engine, and the rush of the wind against the vehicle that can make you sleepy. Don’t let it happen to you! If it does, your vehicle can leave the road in Zess than a secund, and you could crash and be injured. What can you do about highway hypnosis? First, be aware that it can happen. Then here are some tips: 0 Make sure your vehicle is well ventilated, with a


comfortably cool interior. Keep your eyes moving. Scan the road ahead and to the sides. Check your mirrors and your instruments frequently. If you get sleepy, pull off the road into a rest, service or parking area and take a nap, get some exercise, or both. For safety, treat drowsiness on the highway as an emergency.


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If you drive regularly in steep country, or if you’re planning to visit there, here are some tips that can make your trips safer and more enjoyable. 0 Keep your vehicle in good shape. Check all fluid


. levels and also the brakes, tires, cooling system and transmission. These parts can work hard on mountain roads.


0 Know how to go down hills. The most important


thing to know is this: let your engine do some of the slowing down. Shift to a lower gear when you go down a steep or long hill.


~~~ A CAUTION:


If you don’t shift down, your brakes could get so hot that they wouldn’t work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Shift down to let your engine assist your brakes on a steep downhill slope.


,g downhill in NEUTRAL (N) or with the Coas ignition off is dangerous. Your brakes will have to do all the work of slowing down. They could get so hot that they wouldn’t work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Always have your engine running and your vehicle in gear when you go downhill.


0 Know how to go uphill. You may want to shift down


to a lower gear. The lower gears help cool your engine and transmission, and you can climb the hill better.


0 Stay in your own lane when driving on two-lane


roads in hills or mountains. Don’t swing wide or cut across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let you stay in your own lane.


0 As you go over the top of a hill, be alert. There could be


something in your lane, like a stalled car


or an accident. 0 You may see highway signs on mountains that warn of


special problems. Examples are long grades, passing or no-passing zones, a falling rocks area or winding roads. Be alert to these and take appropriate action.


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Here are some tips for winter driving:


Have your vehicle in good shape for winter. ' You may want to put winter emergency supplies in your vehicle.


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Whatever the condition -- smooth ice, packed, blowing or loose snow -- drive with caution. Accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction. If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and polish the surface under the tires even more. Your anti-lock brakes improve your vehicle’s stability when you make a hard stop on a slippery road. Even though you have an anti-lock braking system, you’ll want to begin stopping sooner than you would on dry pavement. See “Anti-Lock” in the Index.


Allow greater following distance on any slippery road. Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine until you hit a spot that’s covered with ice. On an otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in shaded areas where the sun can’t reach: around clumps of trees, behind buildings or under bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass may remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you are on it. Try not to brake while you’re actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers.


What’s the worst time for this? “Wet ice.” Very cold snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice can be even more trouble because it may offer the least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it’s about freezing (32°F; OOC) and freezing rain begins to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews can get there.


If You’re Caught in a Blizzard


’ Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around you:


Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police that you’ve been stopped by the snow.


If you have no blankets or extrq clothing, make body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags, floor mats -- anything you can wrap around yourself or tuck under your clothing to keep warm.


If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a serious situation. You should probably stay with your vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near help and you can hike through the snow. Here are some things to do to summon help and keep yourself and your passengers safe: 0 Turn on your hazard flashers.


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You can run the engine to keep warm, ,but be careful.


Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you. You can’t see it or smell it, so you might not know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking your exhaust pipe. And check around again from time to time to doesn’t collect there. Open a window just a little on the side of the vehicle that’s away from the wind. This will help keep CO out.


be sure snow


Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps the battery charged. You will need a well-charged battery to restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with your headlamps. Let the heater run for awhile. Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again and repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or so until help comes.


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Loading Your Vehicle


_ I r7 , SEE OWNER'S MANUAL FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION 1 U


1 u--


The CertificatiodTire label is found on the rear edge of the driver's door. The label shows the size of your original tires and the inflation pressures needed to obtain the gross weight capacity of your vehicle. This is called the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating). The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel, cargo and tongue weight, if pulling a trailer.


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The Certificationmire label also tells you the maximum weights for the front and rear axles, called the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). To find out the actual loads on your front and rear axles, you need to go to a weigh station and weigh your vehicle. Your dealer can help you with this. Be sure to spread out your load equally on both sides of the centerline. Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle, or GAWR for either the front or rear axle. And, if you do have a heavy load, you should spread it out.


I A CAUTION:


I I--- Do not load your vehicle any Ldvier than the GVWR, or either the maximum front or rear GAWR. If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, or it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle.


Using heavier suspension components to get added durability might not change your weight ratings. Ask your dealer to help you load your vehicle the right way.


I NOTICE:


Your warranty does not cover parts or components that fail because of overloading,


If you put things inside your vehicle -- like suitcases, tools, packages, or anything else -- they will go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they’ll keep going.


Things you put inside your vehicle and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or in a crash.


Put things in the cargo area of your vehicle, Try to spread the weight evenly. Never stack heavier things, like suitcases, inside the vehicle so that some of them are above the tops of the seats. Don’t leave an unsecured child restraint in your vehicle, When you carry something inside the vehicle, secure it whenever you can. Don’t leave a seat folded down unless you need to.


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Payload The Payload Capacity is shown on the Certificationflire label. This is the maximum load capacity that your vehicle can carry. Be sure to include the weight of the people inside as part of your load. If you added any accessories or equipment after your vehicle left the factory, remember to subtract the weight of these things from the payload. Your dealer can help you with this. Trailering Package


If your vehicle comes with the Trailering Package, there is also a load rating which includes the weight of the vehicle and the trailer it tows. This rating is called the Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR). When you weigh your trailer, be sure to include the weight of everything you put in it. And, remember to figure the weight of the people inside as part of your load. Your dealer can help you determine your GCWR. Add-on Equipment When you carry removable items, you may need to put a limit on how many people you carry inside your vehicle. Be sure to weigh your vehicle before you buy and install the new equipment.


A 34


Towing a Trailer r A CAUTION:


If you don’t use the correct equipment and drive properly, you can lose control when you pull a brakes may not work well -- or even at all. You trailer. For example, if the trailer is too heavy, the and your passengers could be seriously injured. Pull a trailer only if you have followed all the steps in this section. Ask your GM dealer for advice and information about towing a trailer with your vehicle.


NOTICE:


Pulling a trailer improperly can damage your vehicle and result in costly repairs not covered by your warranty. To pull a trailer correctly, follow the advice in this part, and see your GM dealer for important information about towing a trailer with your vehicle.


Every vehicle is ready for some trailer towing. If yours was built with trailering options, as many are, it’s ready for heavier trailers. But trailering is different than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, durability and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly. That’s the reason for this part. In it are many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before you pull a trailer.


4-29


If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer If you do, here are some important points:


There are many different laws, including speed limit restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure your rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you’ll be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police. Consider using a sway control if your trailer will weigh 2,000 lbs. (900 kg) or less. You should always use a sway control if your trailer will weigh more than 2,000 lbs. (900 kg). You can ask a hitch dealer about sway controls. Don’t tow a trailer at all during the first 500 miles (800 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine, axle or other parts could be damaged. Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that you tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the heavier loads. You should use DRIVE (D) (or, as you need to, a lower gear) when towing a trailer. Operating your vehicle in DRIVE (D) when towing a trailer will minimize heat buildup and extend the life of your transmission.


4-30


Three important considerations have to do with weight: the weight of the trailer, the weight of the trailer tongue and the weight on your vehicle’s tires. Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. And, it can also depend on any special equipment that you have on your vehicle. The following chart shows how much your trailer can weigh, based upon your vehicle model and options. Vehicle Two-Wheel Drive


Axle Ratio Max. Trailer Wt.


3.23 3.42 3.73 3.42 3.73


4,500 lbs. (1 8 16 kg) 5,000 lbs. (2 270 kg) 5,500 lbs. (2 497 kg) 4,500 lbs. (1 8 16 kg) 5,000 lbs. (2 270 kg)


All-Wheel Drive


Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming the driver and one passenger are in the tow vehicle and it has all the required trailering equipment. The weight of additional optional equipment, passengers and cargo in the tow vehicle must be subtracted from the maximum trailer weight. You can ask your dealer for our trailering information or advice, or you can write us at the address listed in your Warranty and Owner Assistance Information Booklet. In Canada, write to:


General Motors of Canada Limited Customer Assistance Center 1908 Colonel Sam Drive Oshawa, Ontario LlH 8P7


Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total or gross weight of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. And if you will tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load to the GVW because your vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index for more information about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.


If you’re using a weight-carrying hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 10 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B). If you’re using a weight-distributing hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 12 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B). After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they aren’t, you may be able to get them right simply by moving some items around in the trailer.


4-31


Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the limit for cold tires. You’ll find these numbers on the Certification label at the rear edge of the driver’s door or see “Tire Loading” in the Index. Then be sure you don’t go over the GVW limit for your vehicle, including the weight of the trailer tongue. Hitches It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch. Here are some rules to follow:


If you’ll be pulling a trailer that, when loaded, will weigh more than 2,000 lbs. (900 kg), be sure to use a properly mounted, weight-distributing hitch and sway control of the proper size. This equipment is very important for proper vehicle loading and good handling when you’re driving.


Will you have to make any holes in the body of your vehicle when you install a trailer hitch? If you do, then be sure to seal the holes later when you remove the hitch. If you don’t seal them, deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from your exhaust can get into your vehicle (see “Carbon Monoxide” in the Index). Dirt and water can, too.


Safety Chains You should always attach chains between your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer so that the tongue will not drop to the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety chains and do not attach them to the bumper. Always leave just enough slack so you can turn with your rig. And, never allow safety chains to drag on the ground.


4-32


Trailer Brakes If your trailer weighs more than 1,000 lbs. (450 kg) loaded, then it needs its own brakes -- and they must be adequate. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install, adjust and maintain them properly. Your trailer brake system can tap into your vehicle’s hydraulic brake system, except:


Don’t tap into your vehicle’s brake system if the trailer’s brake system will use more than 0.02 cubic inch (0.3 cc) of fluid from your vehicle’s master cylinder. If it does, both braking systems won’t work well. You could even lose your brakes. Will the trailer parts take 3,000 psi (20 650 kPa) of pressure? If not, the trailer brake system must not be used with your vehicle. If everything checks out this far, then make the brake fluid tap at the port on the master cylinder that sends ’ fluid to the rear brakes. But don’t use copper tubing for this. If you do, it will bend and finally break off. Use steel brake tubing.


Driving with a Trailer


A CAUTION:


If you have a rear-most window open and you pull a trailer with your vehicle, carbon monoxide (CO) could come into your vehicle. You can’t see or smell CO. It can cause unconsciousness or death. (See “Engine Exhaust” in the Index.) To maximize your safety when towing a trailer: Have your exhaust system inspected for leaks, and make necessary repairs before starting on your trip. Keep the rear-most windows closed. If exhaust does come into your vehicle through a window in the rear or another opening, drive with your front, main heating or cooling system on and with the fan on any speed. This will bring fresh, outside air into your vehicle. Do not use MAX A/C because it only recirculates the air inside your vehicle. (See “Comfort Controls” in the Index.)


4-33


Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as responsive as your vehicle is by itself. Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform (and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector, lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your electrical connection at the same time. During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working.


lowing Distance


>ray at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns. Passing You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane. Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you.


4-34


Making Turns


NOTICE:


Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering.


When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance. Tbrn Signals When Towing a Trailer When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have extra wiring and a heavy-duty turn signal flasher (included in the optional trailering package). The green arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other drivers you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop.


When towing a trailer, the green arrows on your instrument panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working. Driving On Grades Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce your speed to around 45 mph (70 km/h) to reduce the possibility of engine and transmission overheating. When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, consider the following: Engine coolant will boil at a lower temperature than at normal altitudes. If you turn your engine off immediately after towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs similar to engine overheating. To avoid this, let the engine run while parked (preferably on level ground) with the automatic transmission in PARK (P) for a few minutes before turning the engine off. If you do get the overheat warning, see “Engine Overheating” in the Index.


4-35


Parking on Hills Youereally should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged. But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s how to do it: 1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into PARK (P) yet. Turn your wheels into the curb when facing downhill and away from the curb when facing uphill.


2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels. 3, When the wheel chocks are in place, release the regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.


4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking


brake, and shift to PARK (P).


5. Release the regular brakes.


4-36


When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down


while you:


Start your engine; Shift into a gear; and


0 Release the parking brake.


2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks. 4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks. Maintenance When Trailer Towing Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more on this. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transmission fluid (don’t overfill), engine oil, axle lubricant, belt, cooling system and brake adjustment. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review these sections before you start your trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight.


0 BROWN: Rear lamps.


YELLOW Left stoplamp and turn signal.


0 DARK GREEN: Right stoplamp and turn signal.


WHITE (Heavy Gage): Ground. LIGHT GREEN: Back-up lamps.


0 WHITE (Light Gage): Center High-Mounted


Stoplamp.


0 BLUE: Auxiliary circuit (eight-wire harness only). 0 ORANGE: Fused auxiliary (eight-wire harness only). xore the harness in its original place. Wrap the harness together and tie it neatly so it won’t be damaged.


Trailer Wiring Harness If you have the optional trailering package, your vehicle will have an eight-wire harness, including the center high-mounted stoplamp battery feed wire. The harness is stored on the passenger side of the vehicle near the rear wheel well. This harness has a 30 amp battery feed wire and no connector, and should be wired by a qualified electrical technician. After choosing an aftermarket trailer mating connector pair, have the technician attach one connector to the eight-wire trailer harness and the other connector to the wiring harness on the trailer, Be sure the wiring harness on the trailer is taped or strapped to the trailer’s frame rail and leave it loose enough so the wiring doesn’t bend or break, but not so loose that it drags on the ground. The eight-wire harness must be routed out of your vehicle between the rear door and the floor, with enough of the harness left on both sides so that the trailer or the body won’t pull it. If you do not have the optional trailering package, your vehicle will still have a trailering harness. The harness is located near the passenger’s side rear wheel well. It consists of six wires that may be used by after-market trailer hitch installers. The technician can use the following color code chart when connecting the wiring harness to your trailer.


4-37


NOTES


4-38


Section 5 Problems on the Road


Here you’ll find what to do about some problems that can occur on the road. Hazard Warning Flashers


They also let police know you have a problem. Your front and rear turn signal lamps will flash on and off.


Your hazard warning flashers let you warn others.


Press the button down to make your front and rear turn signal lamps flash on and off. Your hazard warning flashers work no matter what position your key is in, and even if the key isn’t in.


5-1


The hazard warning flasher button is located on top of the steering column. To turn off the flashers, press the button down again. When the hazard warning flashers are on, your turn signals won’t work. They also won’t flash while you’re braking. Other Warning Devices If you carry reflective triangles, you can set one up at the side of the road about 300 feet (100 m) behind your vehicle. Jump Starting If your battery has’run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start yourvehicle. But please follow the numbered steps to do it safely.


5-2


/i\ CAUTION:


Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:


They contain acid that can burn you. They contain gas that can explode or ignite. They contain enough electricity to burn you.


If you don’t follow these steps exactly, some or all of these ,


things can hurt you.,


I NOTICE:


Ignoring these steps could result in’costly damage to your vehicle that wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling, , it won’t work, and it could damage your vehicle.


1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt


battery with a negative ground system.


NOTICE:


If the other system isn’t a 12-volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged.


2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles aren’t touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you don’t want. You wouldn’t be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. You could be injured if the vehicles roll. Set the parking brake firmly on each vehicle. Put an automatic transmission in PARK (P) or a manual transmission in NEUTRAL (N). If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle with a manual transfer case shift lever, be sure the transfer case is not in NEUTRAL (N).


3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug


unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or accessory power outlets. Turn off all lamps that aren’t needed as well as radios. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. In addition, it could save your radio!


I NOTICE:


If you leave your radio on, it could be badly damaged. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.


4. Open the hoods and locate the batteries. Find the


positive (+) and negative (-) terminals on each battery.


5-3


I A CAUTION:


Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You’don’t need to add water to the Delco Freedom’ battery installed in every new GM vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you don’t, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Don’t get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.


5. Check that the jumper cables don’t have loose or


missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) and negative (-) will go to negative (-) or a metal engine part. Don’t connect positive (+) to negative (-) or you’ll get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too.


Fans or other moving engine pa, can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engines are running.


5-4


6. Connect the red


positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the vehicle with the dead battery.


7. Don’t let the other


end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery.


8. Now connect the black


negative (-) cable to the good battery’s negative (-) terminal. Don’t let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (-) cable doesn’t go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy unpainted metal part of the vehicle with the dead battery.


9. Attach the cable at least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, but the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less.


10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run


the engine for a while.


11. Try to start the vehicle with the dead battery. If it


won’t start after a few tries, it probably needs service.


12. Remove the cables in reverse order to prevent


electrical shorting. Take care that they don’t touch each other or any other metal.


1 I


Towing Your Vehicle Try to have a GM dealer or a professional towing service tow your vehicle. They can provide the right equipment and know how to tow it without damage. See “Roadside Assistance” in the Index. If your vehicle has been changed or modified since it was factory-new by adding aftermarket items like fog lamps, aero skirting, or special tires and wheels, these things can be damaged during towing. Before you do anything, turn on the hazard warning flashers. When you call, tell the towing service:


I - B


A. Heavy Metal Engine Part B. Good Battery C . Dead Battery


5-6


Whether your vehicle has rear-wheel drive or the all-wheel-drive option. That your vehicle cannot be towed from the front or rear with sling-type equipment.


0 The make, model and year of your vehicle.


Whether you can still move the shift lever. If there was an accident, what was damaged.


A CAUTION:


To help avoid injury to you or others: 0 Never let passengers ride in a vehicle that is


being towed.


0 Never tow faster than safe or posted speeds. 0 Never tow with damaged parts not


fully secured.


0 Never get under your vehicle after it has


been lifted by the tow truck.


0 Always use separate safety chains on each


side when towing a vehicle.


0 Use T-hooks on front or rear of vehicle.


/1\ CAUTION:


A vehicle can fall from a car carrier if it isn’t adequately secured. This can cause a collision, serious personal injury and vehicle damage. The vehicle should be tightly secured with chains or steel cables before it is transported. Don’t use substitutes (ropes, leather straps, canvas webbing, etc.) that can be cut by sharp edges underneath the towed vehicle.


5-7


When your vehicle is being towed, have the ignition key in the OFF position. The steering wheel should be clamped in a straight-ahead position, with a clamping device designed for towing service. Do not use the vehicle’s steering column lock for this. The transmission should be in NEUTRAL (N) and the parking brake released. If your vehicle has the all-wheel-drive option, it can only be towed with all four wheels off the ground. A dolly must be used under the un-raised wheels when towing or the vehicle must be transported on a flat bed carrier. Don’t have your vehicle towed with the wheels in contact with the ground if it has all-wheel drive. If a vehicle with all-wheel drive must be towed with sling-type or wheel-lift equipment, then either the front or rear wheels must be supported on a dolly.


NOTICE:


If your vehicle has all-wheel drive, do not have it towed with the wheels in contact with the ground or vehicle damage may occur. A dolly must be used under the un-raised wheels when towing or the vehicle must be transported on a flat bed carrier.


5-8


Towing From the Front (Except All-Wheel Drive) Tow Limits -- 35 m p 1 1 (56 krnh), 50 rniles (80 k m )


NOTICE:


Do not tow with sling-type equipment or the front bumper system will be damaged. Use wheel-lift or car-carrier equipment. Additional ramping may be required for car-carrier equipment. Use safety chains and wheel straps. Towing a vehicle over rough surfaces could damage a vehicle. Damage can occur from vehicle to ground or vehicle to wheel-lift equipment. To help avoid damage, install a towing dolly and raise the vehicle until adequate clearance is obtained between the ground and/or wheel-lift equipment. Do not attach winch cables or J-hooks to suspension components when using car-carrier equipment. Always use T-hooks inserted in the T-hook slots.


Towing From the Front (All-Wheel Drive) A towing dolly must be used under the rear wheels when towing front the front.


NOTICE:


Do not tow with sling-type equipment or the front bumper system will be damaged. Use wheel-lift or car-carrier equipment. Additional ramping may be required for car-carrier equipment. Use safety chains and wheel straps. Towing a vehicle over rough surfaces could damage a vehicle. Damage can occur from vehicle to ground or vehicle to wheel-lift equipment. To help avoid damage, install a towing dolly and raise the vehicle until adequate clearance is obtained between the ground and/or wheel-lift equipment. Do not attach winch cables or J-hooks to suspension components when using car-carrier equipment. Always use T-hooks inserted in the T-hook slots.


5-10


Towing From the Rear (Except All-Wheel Drive)


NOTICE:


Do not tow with sling-type equipment or the rear bumper system will be damaged. Use wheel-lift or car-carrier equipment. Additional ramping may be required for car-carrier equipment. Use safety chains and wheel straps. Towing a vehicle over rough surfaces could damage a vehicle. Damage can occur from vehicle to ground or vehicle to wheel-lift equipment. To help avoid damage, install a towing dolly and raise the vehicle until adequate clearance is obtained between the ground and/or wheel-lift equipment.


Towing From the Rear (All-Wheel Drive) A towing dolly must be used under the front kheels when towing from the reaK


NOTICE:


Do not tow with sling-type equipment or the rear bumper system will be damaged. Use wheel-lift or car-carrier equipment. Additional ramping may be required for car-carrier equipment. Use safety chains and wheel straps. Towing a vehicle over rough surfaces could damage a vehicle. Damage can occur from vehicle to ground or vehicle to wheel-lift equipment. To help avoid damage, install a towing dolly and raise the vehicle until adequate clearance is obtained between the ground and/or wheel-lift equipment.


5-12


Engine Overheating You will find a temperature gage on your vehicle’s instrument panel. If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine


Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before opening the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool.


I NOTICE:


If your engine catches fire because you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty.


5-13


If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine If you get the overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: 0 Climb a long hill on a hot day. Stop after high-speed driving. Idle for long periods in traffic. Tow a trailer. See “Driving on Grades” in the Index.


If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. If you have an air conditioner, turn it off. 2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan


speed and open the window as necessary.


3. If you’re in a traffic jam, shift to NEUTRAL (N);


otherwise, shift to the highest gear while driving -- DRIVE (D).


If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning doesn’t come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there’s still no sign of steam, push the accelerator until the engine speed is about twice as fast as normal idle speed. Bring the engine speed back to normal idle speed after two or three minutes. Now see if the warning stops. But then, if you still have the warning, turn ofthe engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.


5-14


When you decide it’s safe to lift the hood, here’s what you’ll see:


If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, don’t do anything else until it cools down.


A. Coolant Recovery Tank B. Radiator Pressure Cap C. Engine Fan


The coolant level should be at the ADD mark. If it isn’t, you may have a leak in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system.


5-15


How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Recovery Tank If you haven’t found a problem yet, but the coolant level isn’t at the ADD mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean water (preferably distilled) and DEX-COOL TM (orange-colored, silicate-free) antifreeze at the coolant recovery tank. (See “Engine Coolant’’ in the Index for more information.)


Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid like alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mix will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mix. With plain water or the wrong mix, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mix of clean water and DEX-COOL TM antifreeze.


Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Don’t touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Don’t run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.


Engine damage from running your engine without coolant isn’t covered by your warranty.


If there seems to be no leak, start the engine again. See if the fan speed increases when idle speed is doubled by pushing the accelerator pedal down. If it doesn’t, your vehicle needs service. Turn off the engine.


5-16


NOTICE:


A CAUTION:


In cold weather, water can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mix.


You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.


When the coolant in the coolant recovery tank is at the ADD mark, start your vehicle. If the overheat warning continues, there’s one more thing you can try. You can add the proper coolant mix directly to the radiator, but be sure the cooling system is cool before you do it.


Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the radiator


pressure cap -- even a little -- they can come out


at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and radiator pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.


How to Add Coolant to the Radiator


1. You can remove the radiator pressure cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise until it first stops. (Don't press down while turning the


If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.


I 2. Then keep turning


,the pressure cap, but now push down as you


5-19


3. Fill the radiator with the proper mix, up to the base


of the filler neck.


4. Then fill the coolant recovery tank to the ADD mark. 5. Put the cap back on the coolant recovery tank, but


leave the radiator pressure cap off.


6. Start the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine fan.


7. By this time the coolant level inside the radiator


filler neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper mix through the filler neck until the level reaches the base of the filler neck.


8. Then replace the pressure cap. At any time during this procedure if coolant begins to flow out of the filler neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure the arrows on the pressure cap line up like this.


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Engine Fan Noise This vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide more air to cool the engine. In most every day driving conditions, the clutch is not fully engaged. This improves fuel economy and reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing and/or high outside temperatures, the fan speed increases when the clutch engages. So you may hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and should not be mistaken as the transmission slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system functioning properly. The fan will slow down when additional cooling is not required and the clutch disengages. You may also hear this fan noise when you start the engine. It will go away as the fan clutch disengages.


If a Tire Goes Flat It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving, especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a 4‘blowout,” here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane. A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you’d use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop -- well off the road if possible. If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.


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Changing a Flat Tire If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard warning flashers.


'!!!h CAUTION:


Changing a tire can cause an injury. The vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over you or other people. You and they could be badly injured. Find a level place to change your tire. To help prevent the vehicle from moving:


1. Set the parking brake firmly. 2. Put the shift lever in PARK (P). 3. ' h r n off the engine. 4. Put the wheel blocks at the front and


rear of the tire farthest away from the one being changed. That would be the tire on the other side of the vehicle, at the opposite end.


The following steps will tell you how to use the jack and change a tire.


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- Removing the Spare Tire and Tools The jacking equipment you’ll need is stored by your vehicle’s rear doors, along the passenger side wall.


Remove your jack cover by pulling it away from the side wall and down to release the tabs securing the top


‘ of the cover.


Remove the wheel, blocks by turning the top nut counterclockwise. Remove the nut and washer, then pull the wheel blocks off the bolt. Push down on the bolt and remove the hooked end from the slot. Slide the jack toward the front of the vehicle and lift it from the mounting. Remove the extension and the ratchet from the pouch.


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Your spare tire is stored underneath the rear of your vehicle. You will use the ratchet and extension to lower the spare tire.


NOTICE:


~~~~~


Never remove or restow a tire frondto a stowage position under the vehicle while the vehicle is supported by a jack. Always tighten the tire fully against the underside of the vehicle when restowing.


The ratchet has an UP side.


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Attach the ratchet, with the DOWN side facing you, to the extension. The extension has a socket end and a flat chisel end. Put the flat end of the extension on an angle through the hole in the rear door frame, above the bumper. Be sure the flat end connects into the hoist shaft.


Turn the ratchet counterclockwise to lower the spare tire to the ground. Keep turning the ratchet until the spare tire can be pulled out from under the vehicle.


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When the tire has been lowered, tilt the retainer at the end of the cable and .pull it through the wheel opening.


Pull the tire out from under the vehicle.


I NOTICE:


To help avoid vehicle damage, do not drive the vehicle before cable is restored.


The tools you’ll be using include the jack (A), wheel blocks (B), extension (C) and ratchet (D).


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try to


the hub


If you have a standard steel wheel, carefully pry along the edge of the hub cap until it comes off. Be-carefu1,the rim edges may be sharp. cap with your bare hands. If you have the styled steel wheel, loosen the plastic nut caps with the ratchet and socket. Make sure the DOWN side faces you. To remove the hub cap from the aluminum wheel, fit the flat end of the extension into the notch. Then, remove the center cap.


Removing the Wheel Covers You will have reach your wheel nuts.


to take off hub caps or wheel nut caps to


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Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire - .


1. Before you start, block the front and rear of the tire farthest away from the one being changed. Then put your spare tire near the flat tire.


2. With the DOWN side facing you, use the ratchet and


socket to loosen all the wheel nuts. Don't remove them yet.


3. The jack has a bolt on the end. Attach the socket end


of the extension to the jack bolt.


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4. Attach the ratchet to the extension with the UP side


facing you.


5. Rotate the ratchet to the right. That will raise the jack


lift head a little.


6. Position the jack under the vehicle.


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Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack, you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack.


NOTICE:


Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned will damage the vehicle or may allow the vehicle to fall off the jack. Be sure to fit the jack lift head into the proper location before raising your vehicle.


Do not jack up the vehicle with people in or near the vehicle.


7. Raise the vehicle by rotating the ratchet clockwise.


Make sure the UP mark faces you. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so there is enough room for the spare tire to fit.


8. Remove all the wheel nuts and take off the flat tire.


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A CAUTION:


Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If you do, the nuts might come fall off, causing a serious accident.


loose. Your wheel could


10. Put on the spare tire. Put the nuts on by hand. Make sure the cone-shaped end is toward the wheel. Tighten each nut by hand until the wheel is held against the hub. If a nut can’t be turned by hand, use the extension and see your dealer as soon as possible.


9.


Remove any rust or dirt from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces and spare wheel.


Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on t L parts to which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from the places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle..In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if ybu need to, to get all the rust or dirt off.


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11. Lower the vehicle by turning the ratchet


counterclockwise. Lower the jack completely.


12. Tighten the wheel nuts firmly in a criss-cross sequence as shown. Turn the ratchet clockwise with the UP mark facing you.


A 11 CAUTION:


Incorrect wheel nuts or improperly tightened wheel nuts can cause the wheel to become loose and even come off. This could lead to an accident. Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts. If you have new GM original to replace them, be sure to get equipment wheel nuts. Stop somewhere as soon as you can and have the nuts tightened with a torque wrench to 100 Ib-ft (140 Nom).


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Storing a jack, a tire or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place.


NOTICE:


Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque specification.


13. Remove the wheel blocks.


I NOTICE:


If Wheel covers won't fit on your compact spare. you try to put a wheel cover on your compact spare, you could damage the cover or the spare.


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1.


2.


3.


Put the flat tire on the ground at the rear of the vehicle, with the valve stem pointed down. Tilt retaining bar downward and through the wheel opening. Make sure it is fully seated across the underside of the wheel. Attach the ratchet, with the UP side facing you, to the extension. Put the flat end of the extension on an angle through the hole in the rear door frame, above the bumper. Turn the ratchet clockwise until the tire is against the underside of the vehicle. You will feel two “clicks” when the tire is up all the way. Try to move the tire with your hands to make sure it is securely in place.


The compact spare is for temporary use only. Replace the compact spare tire with a full-size tire as soon as you can. See “Compact Spare Tire” in the Index. See the storage instructions label to restore your compact spare properly. Return the jacking equipment to its proper location.


I. Jacking Tool Storage


Bag 2. Jack 3. Bracket 4. Jacking Instruction


Tag


5. BoltKcrew 6. Wheel Blocks 7, Washer 8. Nut


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Compact Spare Tire Although the compact spare tire was fully inflated when your vehicle was new, it can lose air after a time. Check the inflation pressure regularly. It should be 60 psi (420 Wa). After installing the compact spare on your vehicle, you should stop as soon as possible and make sure your spare tire is correctly inflated. The compact spare is made to perform well at posted speed limits for distances up to 3,000 miles (5 000 km), so you can fini.sh your trip and have your full-size tire repaired or replaced where you want. Of course, it’s best to replace your spare with a full-size tire as soon as you can. Your spare will last longer and be in good shape in case you need it again.


NOTICE:


When the compact spare is installed, don’t take your vehicle through an automatic car wash with guide rails. The compact spare can get caught on the rails. That can damage the tire and wheel, and maybe other parts of your vehicle.


Don’t use your compact spare on other vehicles. And don’t mix your compact spare tire or wheel with other wheels or tires. They won’t fit. Keep your spare tire and its wheel together.


NOTICE:


Tire chains won’t fit your compact spare. Using them can damage your vehicle and can damage the chains too. Don’t use tire chains on’your compact spare.


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If You’re Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow What you don’t want to do when your vehicle is stuck is to spin your wheels too fast. The method known as “rocking” can help you get out when you’re stuck, but you must use caution.


A CAUTION:’


If you let your tires spin at high speed, they can explode, and you or others could be injured. And, the transmission or other parts of the vehicle can overheat. That could cause an engine compartment fire or other damage. When you’re stuck, spin the wheels as little as possible. Don’t spin the wheels above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.


NOTICE:


Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting your transmission back and forth, you can destroy your transmission.


For information about using tire chains on your vehicle, see “Tire Chains” in the Index. Rocking your vehicle to get it out: First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will clear the area around your front wheels. Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear. If that doesn’t get you out after a few tries, you may need to be towed out. If you do need to be towed out, see “Towing Your Vehicle’’’ in the Index.


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NOTES


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Section 6 Service and Appearance Care


of your vehicle. Here you will find information about the care This section begins with service and fuel information, and then it shows how to check important fluid and lubricant levels. There is also technical information about your vehicle, and a part devoted to its appearance care. Service Your GM dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you’ll go to your dealer for all your service needs. You’ll get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people.


We hope you’ll want to keep your GM vehicle all GM.


Genuine GM parts have one of these marks: n


Delco


6-1


Doing Your Own Service Work If you want to do some of your own service work, you’ll want to get the proper GM Service Manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see “Service and Owner Publications” in the Index. Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see “Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped Vehicle” in the Index. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See “Maintenance Record” in the Index.


I A CAUTION:


You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a

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