2002 Cadillac Escalade Owners Manual

won’t start after a few tries, it probably needs service.

NOTICE:

Damage to your vehicle may result from electrical shorting if jumper cables are removed incorrectly. To prevent electrical shorting, take care that they don’t touch each other or any other metal. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.

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To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (-) cable from the

vehicle that had the dead battery.

2. Disconnect the black negative (-) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the

other vehicle.

5. Return the red positive (+) remote terminal cover to

its original position.

Jumper Cable Removal

A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or Remote

Negative (-) terminal.

B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and Remote

Negative (-) Terminals.

C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal.

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Towing Your Vehicle Consult your dealer or a professional towing service if you need to have your vehicle towed. See “Roadside Assistance” and “Recreational Vehicle Towing” in the Index. Engine Overheating You will find a coolant temperature gage on your vehicle’s instrument panel. See “Engine Coolant Temperature Gage” in the Index. In addition, you will find a LOW COOLANT, CHECK COOLANT TEMP, ENGINE OVERHEATED and a REDUCED ENGINE POWER message in the message center on the instrument panel. See “Message Center” in the Index.

Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode If an overheated engine condition exists and the REDUCED ENGINE POWER message is displayed, an overheat protection mode which alternates firing groups of cylinders helps prevent engine damage. In this mode, you will notice a loss in power and engine performance. This operating mode allows your vehicle to be driven to a safe place in an emergency. Towing a trailer in the overheat protection mode should be avoided.

NOTICE:

After driving in the overheated engine protection operating mode, to avoid engine damage, allow the engine to cool before attempting any repair. The engine oil will be severely degraded. Repair the cause of coolant loss, change the oil and reset the oil life system. See “Engine Oil” in the Index.

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If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine

CAUTION:

Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down.

CAUTION: (Continued)

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CAUTION: (Continued)

Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool. See “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” in the Index.

NOTICE:

If your engine catches fire because you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty. See “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” in the Index.

If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine If you get an engine overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: D Climb a long hill on a hot day. D Stop after high-speed driving. D Idle for long periods in traffic. D Tow a trailer. See “Driving on Grades” in the Index. If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. If your air conditioner is on, turn it off. 2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan

speed and open the window as necessary.

3. If you’re in a traffic jam, shift to NEUTRAL (N);

otherwise, shift to the highest gear while driving -- DRIVE (D).

If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning doesn’t come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there’s still no sign of steam, push down the accelerator until the engine speed is about twice as fast as normal idle speed for at least three minutes while you’re parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. Also, see “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” listed previously in this section. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.

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Cooling System When you decide it’s safe to lift the hood, here’s what you’ll see:

If the coolant inside the coolant surge tank is boiling, don’t do anything else until it cools down.

See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on its location.

When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be at or above the FILL COLD mark. If it isn’t, you may have a leak in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system.

A. Coolant Surge Tank B. Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap C. Engine Fan

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CAUTION:

NOTICE:

Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Don’t touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Don’t run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.

NOTICE:

When adding coolant, it is important that you use only DEX-COOLR (silicate-free) coolant. If coolant other than DEX-COOL is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine coolant will require change sooner -- at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Damage caused by the use of coolant other than DEX-COOLR is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

Engine damage from running your engine without coolant isn’t covered by your warranty. See “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” in the Index.

If there seems to be no leak, start the engine again. See if the engine cooling fan speed increases when idle speed is doubled by pushing the accelerator pedal down. If it doesn’t, your vehicle needs service. Turn off the engine.

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How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Surge Tank If you haven’t found a problem yet, but the coolant level isn’t at or above the FILL COLD mark, add a 50/50
mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOLR coolant at the coolant surge tank, but be sure the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is cool before you do it. See “Engine Coolant” in the Index for more information.

CAUTION:

Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the coolant surge tank pressure cap -- even a little -- they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and coolant surge tank pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.

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CAUTION:

NOTICE:

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOLR coolant.

In cold weather, water can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. So use the recommended coolant.

CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.

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Your vehicle may be equipped with one of the two caps shown.

1. You can remove the coolant surge tank pressure

cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise (left) about one full turn. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.

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2. Then keep turning the pressure cap slowly, and

remove it.

3. Then fill the coolant surge tank with the proper

mixture, to the FILL COLD mark.

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5. Then replace the pressure cap. Be sure the pressure

cap is hand-tight.

4. With the coolant surge tank pressure cap off,

start the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fan. By this time, the coolant level inside the coolant surge tank may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper mixture to the coolant surge tank until the level reaches FILL COLD mark.

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Engine Fan Noise Your vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide more air to cool the engine. In most everyday driving conditions, the fan is spinning slower and the clutch is not fully engaged. This improves fuel economy and reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing and/or high outside temperatures, the fan speed increases as the clutch more fully engages. So you may hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and should not be mistaken as the transmission slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system functioning properly. The fan will slow down when additional cooling is not required and the clutch disengages. You may also hear this fan noise when you start the engine. It will go away as the fan clutch partially disengages.

If a Tire Goes Flat It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving, especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane. A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you’d use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop -- well off the road if possible. If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.

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Changing a Flat Tire If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard warning flashers.

CAUTION:

Changing a tire can cause an injury. The vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over you or other people. You and they could be badly injured. Find a level place to change your tire. To help prevent the vehicle from moving: 1. Set the parking brake firmly. 2. Put the shift lever in PARK (P). 3. Turn off the engine. 4. Put the wheel blocks at the front and rear of the tire farthest away from the one being changed. That would be the tire on the other side of the vehicle, at the opposite end.

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The following steps will tell you how to use the jack and change a tire.

Removing the Spare Tire and Tools The equipment is located under the rear seat behind the driver’s seat and behind the left trim panel in the rear of the vehicle.

Under Second Row Passenger’s Seat on Driver’s Side

A. Tool Kit with Jack Tools and Gloves

B. Bracket and

Wing Nut

There is a wing nut (B) used to retain the tool kit (A). To remove it, turn the wing nut counterclockwise.

Rear Access Panel

A. Speaker B. Bottle Jack C. Wing Nut

D. Retaining Hook E. Wheel Blocks F. Cover Panel

To release the bottle jack (B) from its holder, turn the knob on the bottle jack counterclockwise to lower the jack head. The wheel blocks (E) and the wheel block retainer can be removed by turning the wing nut (C) counterclockwise. You’ll use the jack handle extensions and the wheel wrench to remove the underbody-mounted spare tire.

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A. Hoist Assembly B. Wheel Wrench C. Jack Handle Extensions D. Hoist Shaft E. Valve Stem, Pointed Up F. Spare Tire

G. Tire Retainer H. Hoist Cable I. Hoist Lock J. Hoist Shaft Access Hole K. Hoist End of

Extension Tool

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Follow these instructions to lower the spare tire: 1. If the vehicle is equipped with a hoist lock (I),

open the spare tire lock cover on the bumper and use the ignition key to remove the lock.

2. Assemble the wheel wrench (B) and the two jack

handle extensions (C) as shown. Insert the hoist end (open end) (K) of the extension through the hole (J) in the rear bumper. Be sure the hoist end of the extension connects into the hoist shaft (D) (the ribbed square end of the extension is used to lower the spare tire (F)).

3. Turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise to lower

the spare tire to the ground. Continue to turn the wheel wrench until the spare tire can be pulled out from under the vehicle. The wheel wrench has a hook that allows you to pull the hoist cable (H) towards you, to assist in reaching the spare tire.

4. When the tire has been lowered, tilt the retainer (G) at the end of the cable so it can be pulled up through the wheel opening.

5. Put the spare tire near the flat tire.

The tools you’ll be using include the bottle jack (A), the wheel blocks (B), the jack handle (C), the jack handle extensions (D), and the wheel wrench (E). If the flat tire is on a rear tire of the vehicle, you’ll need to use both jack handle extensions.

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Attach the wheel wrench to the jack handle extensions (as needed). Attach the jack handle to the jack.

Turn the wheel wrench clockwise to raise the jack lift head to the lifting point.

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Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire

To remove the center cap place the chisel end of the wheel wrench in the slot on the wheel and gently pry out.

1. Turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise to loosen

the wheel nuts. Don’t remove the wheel nuts yet.

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CAUTION:

Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack, you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack.

CAUTION:

Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned can damage the vehicle and even make the vehicle fall. To help avoid personal injury and vehicle damage, be sure to fit the jack lift head into the proper location before raising the vehicle.

2. Position the jack under the vehicle. If the flat tire is on the front of the vehicle, position the jack on the frame behind the flat tire. If the flat tire is on the rear of the vehicle, use the jacking pad provided on the rear axle.

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3. Make sure the jack head is positioned so that the rear axle is resting securely between the grooves that are on the jack head. Turn the wheel wrench clockwise to raise the vehicle.

Front Position

Rear Position

Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so there is enough room for the spare tire to fit back underneath the rear of the vehicle.

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4. Remove all the wheel nuts and take off the flat tire.

CAUTION:

Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from the places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off.

5. Remove any rust or dirt

from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces and spare wheel.

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CAUTION:

Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If you do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel could fall off, causing a serious accident.

6. After mounting the

spare, put the wheel nuts back on with the rounded end of the nuts toward the wheel.

Front Position

Tighten each wheel nut by hand. Then use the wheel wrench to tighten the nuts until the wheel is held against the hub.

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7. Turn the wheel wrench

counterclockwise to lower the vehicle. Lower the jack completely.

Rear Position

8. Tighten the nuts

firmly in a crisscross sequence as shown by turning the wheel wrench clockwise.

CAUTION:

Incorrect wheel nuts or improperly tightened wheel nuts can cause the wheel to become loose and even come off. This could lead to an accident. Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts. If you have to replace them, be sure to get new GM original equipment wheel nuts. Stop somewhere as soon as you can and have the nuts tightened with a torque wrench to 140 lb-ft (190 N·m).

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NOTICE:

Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque specification.

When you reinstall the full-size wheel and tire, you must also reinstall the center cap. Place the cap on the wheel and tap it into place until it seats flush with the wheel. The cap can only go on one way. Be sure to line up the tab on the center cap with the indentation on the wheel.

Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools

CAUTION:

Storing a jack, a tire or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place.

Store the flat tire where the spare tire was stored.

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Store the tire under the rear of the vehicle in the spare tire carrier. To store the tire do the following: 1. Put the tire on the ground at the rear of the vehicle

with the valve stem pointed upward.

2. Tilt the retainer downward and through the wheel

opening. Make sure the retainer is fully seated across the underside of the wheel.

3. Attach the wheel wrench and extensions together.

Insert the hoist end through the hole in the rear bumper and into the hoist shaft.

4. Raise the tire part way upward. Make sure the

retainer is seated in the wheel opening.

5. Raise the tire fully against the underside of the

vehicle. Continue turning the wheel wrench until the tire is secure and the cable is tight. The spare tire hoist cannot be overtightened.

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6. Make sure the tire is stored securely. Push, pull, and

then try to rotate or turn the tire. If the tire moves, use the wheel wrench to tighten the cable.

Replace the jack, tools and spare tire lock.

To store the tools, follow these procedures:

A. Hoist Assembly B. Wheel Wrench C. Jack Handle Extensions D. Hoist Shaft

E. Valve Stem, Pointed Up

F. Flat or Spare Tire G. Tire Retainer H. Hoist Cable

Under Driver’s Side Rear Seat

A. Tool Kit with Jack Tools and Gloves

B. Bracket and

Wing Nut

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1. Put the tool kit, with the jack tools and gloves,

in the tool bag and place in the retaining clip under the driver’s side second seat.

2. Tighten down with the wing nut. 3. Then, assemble wheel blocks and bottle jack

together with the wing nut and retaining hook.

4. Position behind the jack storage cover in the left rear side panel just below the speaker and tighten, adjusting clockwise until the jack is secured tight in the mounting bracket.

Rear Access Panel

A. Speaker B. Bottle Jack C. Wing Nut

D. Retaining Hook E. Wheel Blocks F. Cover Panel

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NOTICE:

Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting your transmission back and forth, you can destroy your transmission.

For information about using tire chains on your vehicle, see “Tire Chains” in the Index.

If You’re Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you will need to spin the wheels, but you don’t want to spin your wheels too fast. The method known as “rocking” can help you get out when you’re stuck, but you must use caution.

CAUTION:

If you let your tires spin at high speed, they can explode, and you or others could be injured. And, the transmission or other parts of the vehicle can overheat. That could cause an engine compartment fire or other damage. When you’re stuck, spin the wheels as little as possible. Don’t spin the wheels above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.

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Using the Recovery Hooks

Your vehicle may be equipped with recovery hooks. The recovery hooks are provided at the front of your vehicle. You may need to use them if you’re stuck off-road and need to be pulled to some place where you can continue driving.

Rocking Your Vehicle To Get It Out First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will clear the area around your front wheels. If your vehicle has the Traction Control System, you should turn it off by pressing the TCS on/off button. If your vehicle has the Stabilitrak system, turn the traction control off by pressing the Stabilitrak button so that the STABILITY SYSTEM LIMITED message appears in the message center. Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear. By slowly spinning your wheels in the forward and reverse directions, you will cause a rocking motion that may free your vehicle. If that doesn’t get you out after a few tries, you may need to be towed out. Or, you can use your recovery hooks if your vehicle has them. If you do need to be towed out, see “Towing Your Vehicle” in the Index.

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CAUTION:

The recovery hooks, when used, are under a lot of force. Always pull the vehicle straight out. Never pull on the hooks at a sideways angle. The hooks could break off and you or others could be injured from the chain or cable snapping back.

NOTICE:

Never use the recovery hooks to tow the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged and it would not be covered by warranty.

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Section 6 Service and Appearance Care

Here you will find information about the care of your vehicle. This section begins with service and fuel information, and then it shows how to check important fluid and lubricant levels. There is also technical information about your vehicle, and a part devoted to its appearance care.

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Service Fuel Fuels in Foreign Countries Filling Your Tank Filling a Portable Fuel Container Checking Things Under the Hood Engine Oil Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Passenger Compartment Air Filter Automatic Transmission Fluid Rear Axle All-Wheel Drive Engine Coolant Power Steering Fluid Windshield Washer Fluid

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Brakes Battery Bulb Replacement Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Tires Appearance Care Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) Electrical System Replacement Bulbs Capacities and Specifications Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts

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Service Your dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you’ll go to your dealer for all your service needs. You’ll get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. We hope you’ll want to keep your GM vehicle all GM. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:

Doing Your Own Service Work If you want to do some of your own service work, you’ll want to use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see “Service and Owner Publications” in the Index. Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see “Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped Vehicle” in the Index. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See “Maintenance Record” in the Index.

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CAUTION:

You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it. D Be sure you have sufficient knowledge,

experience, the proper replacement parts and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task.

D Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts and other fasteners. “English” and “metric” fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.

Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airflow around it. This may cause wind noise and affect windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle.

Fuel Gasoline Octane If your vehicle has the 5.3L engine (VIN Code T), use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane of 87 or higher. If the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If it is bad enough, it can damage your engine. A little pinging noise when you accelerate or drive uphill is considered normal. This does not indicate a problem exists or that a higher-octane fuel is necessary. If your vehicle has the 6.0L HO engine (VIN Code N), use premium unleaded gasoline with a posted octane of 91 or higher for best performance. You may also use middle grade or regular unleaded gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher, but your vehicle’s acceleration may be slightly reduced. If the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If it is bad enough, it can damage your engine.

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Gasoline Specifications It is recommended that gasoline meet specifications which were developed by the American Automobile Manufacturers Association and endorsed by the Canadian Vehicle Manufacturers’ Association for better vehicle performance and engine protection. Gasolines meeting these specifications could provide improved driveability and emission control system performance compared to other gasolines.

In Canada, look for the “Auto Makers’ Choice” label on the pump.

California Fuel If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emission Standards (see the underhood emission control label), it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on (see “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index) and your vehicle may fail a smog-check test. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs may not be covered by your warranty.

Canada Only

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Additives Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT. General Motors does not recommend the use of such gasolines. Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for service. To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that will help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing your emission control system to work properly. You should not have to add anything to your fuel. Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in your area to contribute to clean air. General Motors recommends that you use these gasolines, particularly if they comply with the specifications described earlier.

NOTICE:

Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Don’t use it. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage wouldn’t be covered under your warranty.

Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. To check on fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you’ll be driving.

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Filling Your Tank

CAUTION:

Gasoline vapor is highly flammable. It burns violently, and that can cause very bad injuries. Don’t smoke if you’re near gasoline or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, flames and smoking materials away from gasoline.

The fuel cap is located on the driver’s side of your vehicle.

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While refueling, hang the fuel cap by the tether using the hook located on the inside of the filler door. To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly to the left (counterclockwise).

CAUTION:

If you get gasoline on yourself and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. Gasoline can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any “hiss” noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.

Be careful not to spill gasoline. Clean gasoline from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See “Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle” in the Index.

When you put the fuel cap back on, turn it to the right (clockwise) until you hear a clicking sound. Make sure you fully install the cap. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index.

NOTICE:

If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage your fuel tank and emissions system. See “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index.

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Filling a Portable Fuel Container

Checking Things Under the Hood

CAUTION:

CAUTION:

Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.

Never fill a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others: D Dispense gasoline only into

approved containers.

D Do not fill a container while it is inside a

vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed or on any surface other than the ground. D Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the

inside of the fill opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the filling is complete.

D Don’t smoke while pumping gasoline.

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Hood Release

To open the hood, first pull the handle inside the vehicle located under and to the left of the steering wheel.

Then go to the front of the vehicle and pull up on the secondary hood release located near the center of the grill. Lift the hood. Before closing the hood, be sure all filler caps are on properly. Pull down the hood and close it firmly.

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Engine Compartment Overview When you open the hood on the 6000 H.O. engine (5300 similar), you will see:

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A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter B. Coolant Surge Tank C. Air Filter Restriction Indicator D. Engine Oil Fill E. Engine Oil Dipstick F. Automatic Transmission Dipstick G. Fan H. Remote Negative (-) Terminal (GND) I. Remote Positive (+) Terminal J. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir (Out of View) K. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir L. Underhood Fuse Block M. Battery N. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir

Engine Oil

If the CHECK ENG OIL LEVEL appears on the message center, it means you need to check your engine oil level right away.

For more information, see CHECK ENG OIL LEVEL in the Index. You should check your engine oil level regularly; this is an added reminder.

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Checking Engine Oil It’s a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.

Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.

The engine oil dipstick has a yellow loop handle and is located in the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location.

Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you don’t, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.

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When to Add Engine Oil If the oil is at or below the ADD mark, then you’ll need to add at least one quart of oil. But you must use the right kind. This part explains what kind of oil to use. For crankcase capacity, see “Capacities and Specifications” in the Index.

NOTICE:

Don’t add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged.

The engine oil fill cap is located on the valve cover on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. Your vehicle may have a cap with text and a graphic or just a graphic as shown above. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for further location information. Be sure to fill it enough to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you’re through.

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What Kind of Engine Oil to Use Oils recommended for your vehicle can be identified by looking for the starburst symbol. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API). Do not use any oil which does not carry this starburst symbol.

If you change your own oil, be sure you use oil that has the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. If you have your oil changed for you, be sure the oil put into your engine is American Petroleum Institute certified for gasoline engines.

You should also use the proper viscosity oil for your vehicle, as shown in the following chart:

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As in the chart shown previously, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. However, you can use SAE 10W-30 if it’s going to be 0_F (-18_C) or above. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils, such as SAE 20W-50.

NOTICE:

Use only engine oil with the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty.

GM GoodwrenchR oil meets all the requirements for your vehicle. If you are in an area where the temperature falls below -20_F (-29_C), consider using either an SAE 5W-30 synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both will provide easier cold starting and better protection for your engine at extremely low temperatures.

Engine Oil Additives Don’t add anything to your oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol are all you will need for good performance and engine protection. When to Change Engine Oil Your vehicle has a computer that lets you know when to change your engine oil. This is not based on mileage, but on engine revolutions and engine operating temperature. When the computer has calculated that the oil needs changing, the GM Oil Life Systemt will indicate that a change is necessary. The mileage between oil and filter changes will vary depending on how you drive your vehicle -- usually between 3,000 miles (5 000 km) and 10,000 miles (16 000 km) since your last oil and filter change. Under severe conditions, the system may come on before 3,000 miles (5 000 km). Never drive your vehicle more than 10,000 miles (16 000 km) or 12 months (whichever occurs first) without an oil change. The system won’t detect dust in the oil. So, if you drive in a dusty area, be sure to change your oil and filter every 3,000 miles (5 000 km) or sooner. Remember to reset the CHANGE ENGINE OIL message whenever the oil is changed.

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How to Reset the CHANGE ENGINE OIL Message To reset the CHANGE ENGINE OIL message do the following: 1. Turn the ignition key to RUN with the engine off. 2. Fully press and release the accelerator pedal

three times within five seconds. If the CHANGE ENGINE OIL message flashes for five seconds, the system is reset. If the message still flashes after being reset, try the reset procedure one more time. If it does not reset after this, see your dealer for service.

What to Do with Used Oil Did you know that used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer? Don’t let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly throw away clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a real threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all free-flowing oil from the filter before disposal. Don’t ever dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help.

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Engine Air Cleaner/Filter

The air cleaner assembly has an air filter restriction indicator that lets you know when the engine air cleaner/filter is dirty and needs to be serviced.

The air filter restriction indicator is located on the air cleaner cover. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location. See “Owner Checks and Services” in the Index to determine when to check the indicator. The service window (A) with the percentage scale shows the amount of engine air cleaner/filter life used. When both service window (A) and service window (B) turn orange, replace the engine air cleaner/filter. After changing the engine air cleaner/filter, press the button on top of the air filter restriction indicator to reset it.

Your engine air cleaner/filter is located in the air filter housing near the front corner of the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location.

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CAUTION:

Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air, it stops flame if the engine backfires. If it isn’t there, and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Don’t drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.

1. To remove the engine air cleaner/filter, loosen the

screws on the cover.

NOTICE:

2. Lift the cover upward and remove the engine air cleaner/filter out of the air cleaner housing. Care should be taken to dislodge as little dirt as possible.

3. Clean filter sealing surface and the housing. 4. Install the new engine air cleaner/filter. 5. Install the cover and tighten the screws. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to replace the engine air cleaner/filter. See “Owner Checks and Services” in the Index. 6-18

If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you’re driving.

Passenger Compartment Air Filter The filter is located under the instrument panel below the glove compartment. To replace the passenger compartment air filter do the following: 1. Remove the bolts on the access panel and set the panel aside. Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have it done at your dealer’s service department.

3. Remove the air filter by pulling downward on the

element. Remove the second portion of the air filter by sliding it towards the rear of the vehicle and then pulling down.

4. Install the new filter by reversing the steps listed previously. Be sure to follow any instructions that may be included in the replacement filter package. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to replace the passenger compartment air filter. See “Scheduled Maintenance” in the Index.

2. Reach under the instrument panel towards the front of the vehicle and pull downward on the filter retaining bracket.

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Automatic Transmission Fluid When to Check and Change A good time to check your automatic transmission fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change both the fluid and filter every 50,000 miles (83 000 km) if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions: D In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature

regularly reaches 90_F (32_C) or higher.

D In hilly or mountainous terrain. D When doing frequent trailer towing. D Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service. If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, change the fluid and filter every 100,000 miles (166 000 km). See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.

How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.

NOTICE:

Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Too little fluid could cause the transmission to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid.

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Checking the Fluid Level Prepare your vehicle as follows: D Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the

engine running.

D With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever

in PARK (P).

D With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P).

D Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more.

Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission fluid level if you have been driving: D When outside temperatures are above 90_F (32_C). D At high speed for quite a while. D In heavy traffic -- especially in hot weather. D While pulling a trailer. To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180_F to 200_F (82_C to 93_C). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50_F (10_C). If it’s colder than 50_F (10_C), drive the vehicle in THIRD (3) until the engine temperature gage moves and then remains steady for 10 minutes. A cold fluid check can be made after the vehicle has been sitting for eight hours or more with the engine off, but this is used only as a reference. Let the engine run at idle for five minutes if outside temperatures are 50_F (10_C) or more. If it’s colder than 50_F (10_C), you may have to idle the engine longer. Should the fluid level be low during this cold check, you must check the fluid hot before adding fluid. Checking the fluid hot will give you a more accurate reading of the fluid level.

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Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:

The red transmission dipstick handle with the graphic or the text is located at the rear of the engine compartment, on the passenger’s side. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for further location information. 1. Flip the handle up and then pull out the dipstick and

wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.

2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and

then pull it back out again.

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3. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the

dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.

How to Add Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transmission fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.

Add fluid only after checking the transmission fluid while it is hot. (A cold check is used only as a reference.) If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level up to the HOT area for a hot check. It doesn’t take much fluid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Don’t overfill.

NOTICE:

We recommend you use only fluid labeled DEXRONR-III, because fluid with that label is made especially for your automatic transmission. Damage caused by fluid other than DEXRONR-III is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

D After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as

described under “How to Check.”

D When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.

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Rear Axle When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index. How to Check Lubricant

If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant.

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To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. The proper level is from 5/8 inch to 1 5/8 inch (15 mm to 40 mm) below the filler plug. Add only enough fluid to reach the proper level. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. All-Wheel Drive Lubricant checks in this section also apply to these vehicles. However, there are two additional systems that need lubrication. Transfer Case

When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See “Periodic Maintenance Inspections” in the Index.

How to Check Lubricant

What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Front Axle

When to Check and Change Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.

(A) Fill Plug

(B) Drain Plug

To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. Use care not to overtighten plug.

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How to Check Lubricant

If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you may need to add some lubricant. When the differential is cold, add enough lubricant to raise the level to 1/2 inch (12 mm) below the filler plug hole. When the differential is at operating temperature (warm), add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.

What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.

To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface.

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Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with DEX-COOLR engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for 5 years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if you add only DEX-COOLR extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see “Engine Overheating” in the Index. A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOLR coolant will: D Give freezing protection down to -34_F (-37_C). D Give boiling protection up to 265_F (129_C). D Protect against rust and corrosion. D Help keep the proper engine temperature. D Let the warning lights and gages work as

they should.

NOTICE:

When adding coolant, it is important that you use only DEX-COOLR (silicate-free) coolant. If coolant other than DEX-COOL is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine coolant will require change sooner -- at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Damage caused by the use of coolant other than DEX-COOLR is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

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What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOLR coolant which won’t damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you don’t need to add anything else.

CAUTION:

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOLR coolant.

NOTICE:

If you use an improper coolant mixture, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts.

If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system.

NOTICE:

If you use the proper coolant, you don’t have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful.

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Checking Coolant

The coolant surge tank is located in the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location.

The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the FILL COLD mark.

If the LOW COOLANT message comes on and stays on, it means you’re low on engine coolant.

See “Low Coolant” in the Index.

CAUTION:

Turning the surge tank pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. Never turn the surge tank pressure cap -- even a little -- when the engine and radiator are hot.

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Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOLR coolant mixture at the surge tank, but only when the engine is cool.

Power Steering Fluid

CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.

When replacing the pressure cap, make sure it is hand-tight.

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When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. The power steering fluid reservoir is located in the engine compartment toward the front of the vehicle. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location. How to Check Power Steering Fluid Turn the key off, let the engine compartment cool down, wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean, then unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. Then remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on the dipstick. The level should be at the FULL COLD mark. If necessary, add only enough fluid to bring the level up to the mark.

What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals. Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing.

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Adding Washer Fluid

The windshield washer fluid reservoir is located in the engine compartment toward the front of the vehicle on the driver’s side.

See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location. Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer fluid until the tank is full.

NOTICE:

D When using concentrated washer fluid,

follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.

D Don’t mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water doesn’t clean as well as washer fluid.

D Fill your washer fluid tank only

three-quarters full when it’s very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.

D Don’t use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.

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Brakes Brake Fluid

Your brake master cylinder reservoir is filled with DOT-3
brake fluid. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for the location of the reservoir.

There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes won’t work well, or won’t work at all.

So, it isn’t a good idea to “top off” your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid won’t correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you’ll have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add (or remove) brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

CAUTION:

If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. See “Checking Brake Fluid” in this section.

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to check your brake fluid. See “Periodic Maintenance Inspections” in the Index.

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What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid. Refer to “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.

CAUTION:

With the wrong kind of fluid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.

Checking Brake Fluid

You can check the brake fluid without taking off the cap. Just look at the brake fluid reservoir. The fluid level should be above MIN. If it isn’t, have your brake system checked to see if there is a leak. After work is done on the brake hydraulic system, make sure the level is above the MIN but not over the MAX mark.

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NOTICE:

CAUTION:

D Using the wrong fluid can badly damage

brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they’ll have to be replaced. Don’t let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid.

D If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See “Appearance Care” in the Index.

Brake Wear Your vehicle has four-wheel disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving (except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly).

The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes won’t work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.

NOTICE:

Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair.

Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM torque specifications.

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Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. See “Brake System Inspection” in Section 7 of this manual under Part C “Periodic Maintenance Inspections.” Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you make a brake stop, your disc brakes adjust for wear. Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system -- for example, when your brake linings wear

down and you need new ones put in -- be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you don’t, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change -- for the worse. The braking performance you’ve come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts. Battery Your new vehicle comes with a maintenance free ACDelcoR battery. When it’s time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco battery. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for battery location. WARNING: Battery posts, terminals and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling.

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Vehicle Storage If you’re not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (-) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.

CAUTION:

Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you aren’t careful. See “Jump Starting” in the Index for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.

Contact your dealer to learn how to prepare your vehicle for longer storage periods. Also, for your audio system, see “Theft-Deterrent Feature” in the Index.

Bulb Replacement For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer. Before you replace any bulbs, be sure that all the lamps are off and the engine isn’t running. See “Replacement Bulbs” in the Index for the proper types of bulbs to use. Halogen Bulbs

CAUTION:

Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.

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Headlamps

1. Open the hood of the vehicle.

2. Pry up the eight fastener plugs on the radiator cover

with a screwdriver and pull the fasteners out.

3. Lift off the radiator cover.

A. Low-Beam Headlamp B. Daytime Running Lamp C. Sidemarker Lamp D. High-Beam Headlamp E. Front Turn Signal Lamp

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4. Remove the horizontal pin from the headlamp

assembly by lifting the end of the pin upward until it unsnaps and then pulling it toward the center of the vehicle.

5. Remove the vertical pin from the headlamp assembly

by turning the end of the pin away from you until it unsnaps and then pulling it upward

6. Remove the headlamp assembly by lifting it up and then pulling it out and away from the front of the vehicle.

7. Disconnect the electrical connector from the lower corner of the headlamp assembly (this will give you better access to the headlamp assembly).

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8. Remove the rubber, circular-shaped bulb cap of the affected bulb from the headlamp assembly.

14. Reconnect the electrical connector to the lower

corner of the headlamp assembly.

9. Turn the bulb connector counterclockwise

and remove it with the old bulb from the headlamp assembly.

10. Unplug the electrical connector from the old bulb. 11. Plug in the electrical connector to the new bulb, using care not to touch the bulb with your hands, fingers or anything damp or oily.

12. Place the connector with the new bulb into the headlamp assembly and turn it clockwise until it is tight.

13. Reinstall the rubber, circular-shaped bulb cap onto

the headlamp assembly.

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15. Place the headlamp assembly back into the vehicle,

being sure to align the lower locator tab with the pocket on the vehicle (see arrow). Push the headlamp assembly straight in and then down into position.

16. Install the two pins and snap the ends into their

locked position.

17. Reinstall the radiator cover by reversing the

removal procedure described previously.

Headlamp Aiming

If you believe your headlamps need to be re-aimed, we recommend that you take your vehicle to your dealer for service. However, it is possible for you to re-aim your headlamps as described in the following procedure.

NOTICE:

To make sure your headlamps are aimed properly, read all the instructions before beginning. Failure to follow these instructions could cause damage to headlamp parts.

Your vehicle has a visual optical headlamp aiming system equipped with horizontal aim indicators. The aim has been preset at the factory and should need no further adjustment. This is true even though your horizontal aim indicators may not fall exactly on the “0” (zero) marks on their scales. If your vehicle is damaged in an accident, the headlamp aim may be affected. Aim adjustment to the low beam may be necessary if it is difficult to see lane markers (for horizontal aim), or if oncoming drivers flash their high beams at you (for vertical aim).

The vehicle should be properly prepared as follows: D The vehicle should be placed so the headlamps

are 25 ft. (7.6 m) from a light colored wall or other flat surface.

D The vehicle must have all four tires on a perfectly

level surface which is level all the way to the wall or other flat surface.

D The vehicle should be placed so it is perpendicular to

the wall or other flat surface.

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D The vehicle should not have any snow, ice or mud

attached to it.

D The vehicle should be fully assembled and all other work stopped while headlamp aiming is being done.

D The vehicle should be normally loaded with a full tank of fuel and one person or 160 lbs. (75 kg) on the driver’s seat.

D Tires should be properly inflated. D Start the vehicle and rock it to level the suspension. Headlamp aiming is done with the vehicle low beam lamps. The high beam lamps will be correctly aimed if the low beam lamps are aimed properly. The headlamp aiming devices are under the hood near the headlamps.

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If you believe your headlamps need horizontal (left/right) adjustment, follow the horizontal aiming procedure. If you believe your headlamps need only vertical (up/down) adjustment, follow only the vertical aiming procedure. Adjustment screws can be turned with an E8 TorxR socket or T15 Torx screwdriver.

Headlamp Horizontal Aiming Turn the horizontal aiming screw (A) until the indicator (B) is lined up with zero.

Headlamp Vertical Aiming

NOTICE:

Horizontal aiming must be performed before making any adjustments to the vertical aim. Adjusting the vertical aim first will result in an incorrect headlamp aim.

1. Find the aim dot on the lens of the low beam lamps.

Once the horizontal aim is adjusted, then adjust the vertical aim.

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3. At the wall or other flat surface, measure from the ground upward the recorded distance from Step 2
and draw or tape a horizontal line the width of the vehicle.

2. Measure the distance from the ground to the aim dot

on each low beam lamp. Record this distance.

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4. Turn on the low-beam headlamps and place a piece of cardboard or equivalent in front of the headlamp not being aimed. This should allow only the beam of light from the headlamp being aimed to be seen on the flat surface.

5. Turn the vertical aiming screw (V) until the headlamp beam is aimed to the horizontal tape line. The top edge of the cut-off should be positioned at the bottom edge of the horizontal tape line.

NOTICE:

Do not cover a headlamp to improve beam cut-off when aiming. Covering a headlamp may cause excessive heat build-up which may cause damage to the headlamp.

6. Repeat Steps 4 and 5 for the opposite headlamp.

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Front Turn Signal, Sidemarker and Daytime Running Lamps

A. Low-Beam Headlamp B. Daytime Running Lamp C. Sidemarker Lamp D. High-Beam Headlamp E. Front Turn Signal Lamp

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1. Remove the headlamp assembly as

described previously.

2. Remove the rubber, circular-shaped bulb cap for the

affected bulb from the headlamp assembly.

3. Press the locking release lever, turn the bulb

socket counterclockwise and remove it from the headlamp assembly. (There is no lock for the sidemarker lamp.)

4. Remove the old bulb from the bulb socket. 5. Put the new bulb into the bulb socket. 6. Put the bulb socket into the turn signal housing and turn it clockwise until it locks. Use care not to touch the bulb with your fingers or hands. (There is no lock for the sidemarker lamp.)

7. Reinstall the rubber, circular-shaped bulb cap to the

headlamp assembly.

8. Put the headlamp assembly back into the vehicle by

reversing the previous mentioned steps.

Center High Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) It is recommended that this component be replaced as a unit.

Taillamps

A. Turn Signal-Tail Lamp B. Stop-Tail Lamp C. Back-Up Lamp D. Sidemarker Lamp

2. Remove the lamp assembly. 3. Press the release tab and turn the bulb socket

counterclockwise to remove it from the taillamp housing. (The sidemarker lamp does not have a release tab.)

4. Pull the bulb straight out

from the socket.

1. Use a screwdriver to

remove the two screws from the lamp assembly.

5. Press a new bulb into the socket, insert it into the

taillamp housing and turn the socket clockwise into the taillamp housing until it clicks. (The sidemarker lamp does not have a release tab and therefore will not click when it is installed.)

6. Reinstall the rear lamp assembly and tighten

the screws.

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Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement

Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. For proper type and length, see “Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts” in the Index. To replace the windshield wiper blade assembly do the following: 1. Lift the wiper arm and turn the blade until it is facing

away from the windshield.

2. Push the release lever and slide the wiper assembly

toward the driver’s side of the vehicle.

3. Install a new blade by reversing Steps 1 and 2.

Windshield wiper blades should be inspected at least twice a year for wear and cracking. See “Wiper Blade Check” in the Index for more information.

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Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your Cadillac Warranty booklet for details.

CAUTION:

Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous. D Overloading your tires can cause overheating

as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index.

CAUTION: (Continued)

CAUTION: (Continued)

D Underinflated tires pose the same danger as

overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold.

D Overinflated tires are more likely to be

cut, punctured or broken by a sudden impact -- such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure.

D Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If your

tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them.

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Inflation -- Tire Pressure The Certification/Tire label, which is located on the rear edge of the driver’s door, shows the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they’re cold. “Cold” means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km).

NOTICE:

Don’t let anyone tell you that underinflation or overinflation is all right. It’s not. If your tires don’t have enough air (underinflation), you can get the following: D Too much flexing D Too much heat D Tire overloading D Bad wear D Bad handling D Bad fuel economy

NOTICE: (Continued)

NOTICE: (Continued)

If your tires have too much air (overinflation), you can get the following: D Unusual wear D Bad handling D Rough ride D Needless damage from road hazards

When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Also, check the tire pressure of the spare tire.

How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You can’t tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they’re underinflated. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.

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Tire Inspection and Rotation Tires should be rotated every 6,000 to 8,000 miles (10 000 to 13 000 km). Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See “When It’s Time for New Tires” and “Wheel Replacement” later in this section for more information. Make sure the spare tire is stored securely. Push, pull, and then try to rotate or turn the tire. If it moves, use the wheel wrench to tighten the cable. See “Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools” in the Index. The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The first rotation is the most important. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index for scheduled rotation intervals.

When rotating your tires, always use the correct rotation pattern shown here. Don’t include the spare tire in your tire rotation. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the Certification/Tire label. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” in the Index.

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CAUTION:

Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off. See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index.

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When It’s Time for New Tires

One way to tell when it’s time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining.

You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true: D You can see the indicators at three or more places

around the tire.