2007 Buick Rendezvous Owners Manual

be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle.

375

If you use an improper coolant

Notice: mixture, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core, and other parts. If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system. Notice: If you use extra inhibitors and/or additives in your vehicle’s cooling system, you could damage your vehicle. Use only the proper mixture of the engine coolant listed in this manual for the cooling system. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 485 for more information.

What Coolant to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL® coolant which will not damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you do not need to add anything else.

{CAUTION:

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.

376

Checking Coolant

The coolant recovery tank is located on the driver’s side of the vehicle, above the engine air cleaner/filter. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 364
for more information on location.

{CAUTION:

Turning the radiator pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. With the coolant recovery tank, you will almost never have to add coolant at the radiator. Never turn the radiator pressure cap — even a little — when the engine and radiator are hot.

The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the full cold mark, or a little higher. When your engine is warm, the level should be above the full cold mark or a little higher. Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture at the coolant recovery tank, but be careful not to spill it.

{CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.

Occasionally check the coolant level in the radiator. For information on how to add coolant to the radiator, see Cooling System on page 381.

377

Radiator Pressure Cap Notice: The radiator cap on your vehicle is a pressure-type cap and must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss and possible engine damage from overheating. Be sure the arrows on the cap line up with the overflow tube on the radiator filler neck. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 364
for more information on location.

Engine Overheating You will find a coolant temperature warning and a coolant temperature gage on your vehicle’s instrument panel. See Engine Coolant Temperature Warning Message on page 227 and Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 221.

If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine

{CAUTION:

Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when the vehicles engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 380 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency.

378

If your engine catches fire because

Notice: you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 380 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency. If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine If you get an engine overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: (cid:127) Climb a long hill on a hot day. (cid:127) Stop after high-speed driving. (cid:127) Idle for long periods in traffic. (cid:127) Tow a trailer.

If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. If the air conditioner is on, turn it off. 2. Turn on the heater to full hot at the highest fan

speed and open the windows as necessary.

3. If you are in a traffic jam, shift to NEUTRAL (N);

otherwise, shift to the highest gear while driving — DRIVE (D).

If the vehicle no longer has the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning does not come back on, you can drive normally.

379

If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there is still no sign of steam, idle the engine for three minutes while you are parked. If vehicle still has the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. Also, see “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” later in this section. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.

Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode This emergency operating mode lets your vehicle be driven to a safe place in an emergency situation. If an overheated engine condition exists, an overheat protection mode which alternates firing groups of cylinders helps prevent engine damage. In this mode, there is a significant loss in power and engine performance. The temperature gage indicates an overheat condition exists. Driving extended miles (km) and/or towing a trailer in the overheat protection mode should be avoided. Notice: After driving in the overheated engine protection operating mode, to avoid engine damage, allow the engine to cool before attempting any repair. The engine oil will be severely degraded. Repair the cause of coolant loss, change the oil and reset the oil life system. See Engine Oil on page 365.

380

Cooling System When you decide it is safe to lift the hood, this is what you see:

{CAUTION:

An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface.

A. Radiator Pressure Cap B. Electric Engine Cooling Fans C. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank

381

The coolant level should be at or above the full cold mark. If it is not, you may have a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump, or somewhere else in the cooling system.

{CAUTION:

Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.

If there seems to be no leak, with the engine on, check to see if the electric engine cooling fans are running. If the engine is overheating, both fans should be running. If they are not, your vehicle needs service. Notice: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant is not covered by your warranty. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 380 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant could require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle.

382

How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Recovery Tank If you have not found a problem yet, but the coolant level is not at or above the full cold mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® engine coolant at the coolant recovery tank. See Engine Coolant on page 375
for more information.

{CAUTION:

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine (Continued)

CAUTION:

CAUTION:

(Continued)

could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.

In cold weather, water can freeze and

Notice: crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture.

{CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.

When the coolant in the coolant recovery tank is at or above the full cold mark, start your vehicle.

383

If the overheat warning continues, there is one more thing you can try. You can add the proper coolant mixture directly to the radiator, but be sure the cooling system is cool before you do it.

{CAUTION:

Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the radiator pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and radiator pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.

384

How to Add Coolant to the Radiator Notice: Your engine has a specific radiator fill procedure. Failure to follow this procedure could cause your engine to overheat and be severely damaged.

1. Remove the radiator pressure cap when the

cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise until it first stops. Do not press down while turning the pressure cap.

If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.

2. Then keep turning the pressure cap, but now push down as you turn it. Remove the pressure cap.

{CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.

Housing

Bypass Tube

3. After the engine cools, open the coolant air

bleed valves. There are two bleed valves. One is located on the thermostat housing. The other is located on the thermostat bypass tube.

385

Filling in the Radiator Filler Neck

Upper Radiator Hose

4. Fill the radiator with the proper DEX-COOL®

coolant mixture, up to the base of the filler neck. See Engine Coolant on page 375
for more information about the proper coolant mixture. If you see a stream of coolant coming from an air bleed valve, close the valve. Otherwise, close the valves after the radiator is filled. 5. Rinse or wipe any spilled coolant from the

engine and the compartment.

6. Start the engine and let it run until you can

feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fans.

7. By this time, the coolant level inside the

radiator filler neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture through the filler neck until the level reaches the base of the filler neck.

386

8. Then replace the pressure cap. At any time

during this procedure if coolant begins to flow out of the filler neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure the arrows on the pressure cap line up properly.

Power Steering Fluid

See Engine Compartment Overview on page 364
for reservoir location.

Filling in the Coolant Recovery Tank

9. Then fill the coolant recovery tank to the full

cold mark.

10. Put the cap back on the coolant recovery tank.

When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.

387

Windshield Washer Fluid What Washer Fluid to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing. Adding Washer Fluid

Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer fluid until the tank is full. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 364
for reservoir location.

How to Check Power Steering Fluid To check the power steering fluid, do the following: 1. Turn the key off and let the engine

compartment cool down.

2. Wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean. 3. Unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a

clean rag.

4. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. 5. Remove the cap again and look at the

fluid level on the dipstick.

When the engine compartment is hot, the level should be at the H (Hot) mark. When it is cold, the level should be at the C (Cold) mark. If the fluid is at the ADD mark, you should add fluid. What Power Steering Fluid to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 485. Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.

388

Notice: (cid:127) When using concentrated washer fluid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.

(cid:127) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer fluid.

(cid:127) Fill your washer fluid tank only

three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.

(cid:127) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in

your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.

Brakes Brake Fluid

Your brake master cylinder reservoir is filled with DOT-3
brake fluid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 364 for the location of the reservoir.

There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes will not work well, or will not work at all.

389

What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3
brake fluid. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 485. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.

{CAUTION:

With the wrong kind of fluid in the brake system, the brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.

So, it is not a good idea to top off your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid will not correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you will have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add or remove brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

{CAUTION:

If your vehicle has too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

When your brake fluid falls to a low level, your brake warning light will come on. See Brake System Warning Light on page 219.

390

Notice: (cid:127) Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in the brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 455.

(cid:127)

Brake Wear Your vehicle has four-wheel disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving, except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly.

{CAUTION:

The brake wear warning sound means that soon the brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.

Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair. Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes.

391

Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM torque specifications. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you apply the brakes, with or without the vehicle moving, your brakes adjust for wear.

Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system — for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you do not, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance you have come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.

392

Battery Your vehicle has a maintenance free battery. When it is time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco® replacement battery. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 364 for battery location. Warning: Battery posts, terminals, and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling.

Vehicle Storage If you are not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.

{CAUTION:

Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 394 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.

Also, for your audio system, see Theft-Deterrent Feature on page 296.

393

Jump Starting If your vehicle’s battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely.

{CAUTION:

Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:

(cid:127) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:127) They contain gas that can explode or

(cid:127) They contain enough electricity to

ignite.

burn you.

If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.

Ignoring these steps could result in

Notice: costly damage to your vehicle that would not be covered by your warranty.

394

Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage your vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a

12-volt battery with a negative ground system.

If the other vehicle’s system is not a Notice: 12-volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper

cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump starting procedure. Put an automatic transaxle in PARK (P) or a manual transaxle in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake.

Notice: If you leave your radio or other accessories on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and other accessories when jump starting your vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug

unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or the accessory power outlet(s). Turn off the radios and all lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save the radio! 4. Open the hood on the other vehicle and locate

the positive (+) and negative (−) terminal locations on that vehicle. You will not need to access your battery for jump starting. Your vehicle has a remote positive (+) jump starting terminal for that purpose. The terminal is located under a tethered cap at the front of the underhood fuse block. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 364 for more information on location.

Squeeze the tabs and swing the cap out of the way to access the remote positive (+) terminal.

3.5L V6 Engine

You should always use the remote positive (+) terminal instead of the positive (+) terminal on the battery.

{CAUTION:

An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

395

{CAUTION:

{CAUTION:

Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you do not, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.

Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.

5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one.

396

If you connect a negative cable to the

Notice: engine control module (ECM), ECM mounting bracket or any cables that attach to the ECM bracket, you may damage the ECM. Attach the negative cable to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part, other than the ECM, ECM bracket or cables attached to the ECM bracket.

Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks.

6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect

it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.

9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable at least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less.

10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery

and run the engine for a while.

11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead

battery. If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service.

397

To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from

the vehicle that had the dead battery.

2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from

the vehicle with the good battery.

3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the

other vehicle.

5. Return the remote positive (+) terminal cover

to its original position.

Notice: If the jumper cables are connected or removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always connect and remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal.

Jumper Cable Removal

A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or

Remote Negative (−) Terminal

B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and

Remote Negative (−) Terminals

C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal

398

Bulb Replacement For the proper type of replacement bulbs, see Replacement Bulbs on page 404. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer.

Halogen Bulbs

{CAUTION:

Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.

Headlamps, Front Turn Signal, Sidemarker, and Parking Lamps 1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on

page 363 for more information.

2. Push in on the

headlamp panel and lift up the headlamp retaining clip partway, but do not remove.

3. Remove the wing stud on the upper, outboard

side of the lamp assembly.

4. Unsnap the headlamp assembly by pulling it

forward, away from the vehicle.

399

5. Disconnect the electrical connector by

pulling back on the locking tab, located on the electrical connector, to separate the two connectors.

6. Turn the bulb socket one-quarter of a turn clockwise.

7. Pull the bulb assembly out from the lamp

housing.

400

8. Unhook the electrical connector by lifting up

the gray tabs and separate the connector from the bulb base.

9. Install the appropriate new bulb into the electrical connector. Push the bulb firmly enough so that the gray tabs hook over the tab on the bulb.

10. Put the bulb assembly back into the lamp

housing and turn the bulb socket one-quarter of a turn counterclockwise.

11. Align the retaining clips on the back of the headlamp with the rectangular holes in the mounting panel.

12. Push firmly on both ends of the headlamp to

snap it into position.

13. Push the retaining clip down to its original

position.

14. Reinstall the wing stud.

Taillamps, Turn Signal, and Stoplamps 1. Open the liftgate. See Liftgate on page 118

for more information.

2. Remove the

two screws on the inboard taillamp panel.

3. Pull the lamp directly rearward from the

vehicle.

401

4. Turn the bulb socket one-quarter of a turn

counterclockwise.

5. Pull the bulb assembly out from the lamp

housing.

6. Unhook the electrical connector by lifting up

the tabs and separate the connector from the bulb base.

7. Install the new bulb into the electrical

connector. Push the bulb firmly enough so that the tabs hook over the tab on the bulb.

8. Reverse the steps to reinstall. 9. Reinstall the lamp to its pocket by lining up the mounting pin and pushing forward to set the position.

10. Reinstall the screws removed in Step 2. 11. Close the liftgate.

Taillamps and Back-Up Lamps This procedure is for the liftgate-mounted taillamps and back-up lamps. To replace one of these bulbs, do the following: 1. Open the liftgate. See Liftgate on page 118

for more information.

2. Remove the panel inside the liftgate by lifting

the tabs and pulling the panel off.

3. Remove the seven wing nuts and the four outboard nuts (two at each end).

4. Gently lower the liftgate. 5. Pull the lamp assembly directly rearward from

the vehicle.

402

A. Outboard Taillamp B. Center Taillamp C. Inboard Back-Up Lamp

6. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise

one-quarter of a turn.

7. Pull the bulb assembly out from the lamp

housing.

8. Pull the bulb out of the base. 9. Install the new bulb into the electrical

connector. Push the bulb firmly enough so that the tabs hook over the tab on the bulb.

10. Put the bulb assembly back into the lamp

housing and turn the bulb socket clockwise one-quarter of a turn.

11. Reinstall the lamp assembly on the liftgate. 12. Gently lift the liftgate. 13. Reinstall the seven wing nuts and the four

outboard nuts.

14. Reinstall the panel inside the liftgate by

connecting the tabs.

15. Close the liftgate.

403

Replacement Bulbs

Exterior Lamp

Bulb Number

Front Turn Signal/Parking Lamp

3457K

Headlamps

High-beam

Low-beam

Liftgate-Mounted

Back-up Lamp

Taillamp

Rear Outboard Stoplamp/Taillamp/Turn Signal Lamp

Sidemarker Lamp

9005

9006

921

161

3057K

168

For replacement bulbs not listed here, contact your dealer.

Windshield Replacement Keep in mind that your windshield is part of the Head-Up Display (HUD) system. If you ever have to get your windshield replaced, be sure to get one that is designed for HUD or your HUD image may look blurred or out of focus. Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected for wear and cracking. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 475 for more information. Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. For proper type and length, see Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 486.

404

To replace the windshield wiper blade assembly do the following: 1. Lift the wiper arm away from the windshield.

2. Push the release lever (B) to disengage the hook and push the wiper arm (A) out of the blade (C).

3. Push the new wiper blade securely on the wiper arm until you hear the release lever click into place.

To replace the rear wiper blade, follow the steps listed above.

405

Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your GM Warranty booklet for details. For additional information refer to the tire manufacturer’s booklet included with your vehicle.

{CAUTION:

Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous.

(cid:127) Overloading your vehicle’s tires can cause overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 332.

CAUTION:

(Continued)

406

CAUTION:

(Continued)

(cid:127) Underinflated tires pose the same

danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your vehicle’s tires are cold. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 413.

(cid:127) Overinflated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured, or broken by a sudden impact — such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure.

(cid:127) Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If the tire’s tread is badly worn, or if your vehicle’s tires have been damaged, replace them.

Tire Sidewall Labeling Useful information about a tire is molded into its sidewall. The examples below show a typical passenger vehicle tire and a compact spare tire sidewall.

Passenger (P-Metric) Tire Example

(A) Tire Size: The tire size is a combination of letters and numbers used to define a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type, and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail.

(B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines.

(C) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards.

(D) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT (Department of Transportation) code is the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture.

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(E) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread.

(F) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction, and temperature resistance. For more information see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 420.

(G) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load.

Compact Spare Tire Example

(A) Temporary Use Only: The compact spare tire or temporary use tire has a tread life of approximately 3,000 miles (5 000 km) and should not be driven at speeds over 65 mph (105 km/h). The compact spare tire is for emergency use when a regular road tire has lost air and gone flat. If your vehicle has a compact spare tire, see Compact Spare Tire on page 450 and If a Tire Goes Flat on page 427.

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(B) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread.

(C) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following the DOT (Department of Transportation) code is the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture.

(D) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load.

(E) Tire Inflation: The temporary use tire or compact spare tire should be inflated to 60 psi (420 kPa). For more information on tire pressure and inflation see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 413.

(F) Tire Size: A combination of letters and numbers define a tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type, and service description. The letter T as the first character in the tire size means the tire is for temporary use only.

(G) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines. Tire Size The following illustration shows an example of a typical passenger vehicle tire size.

(A) Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter P as the first character in the tire size means a passenger vehicle tire engineered to standards set by the U.S. Tire and Rim Association.

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(B) Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall.

(C) Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is 60, as shown in item C of the illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is 60 percent as high as it is wide.

(D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter R means radial ply construction; the letter D means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter B means belted-bias ply construction.

(E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches.

(F) Service Description: These characters represent the load range and speed rating of the tire. The load index represents the load carry capacity a tire is certified to carry. The load index can range from 1 to 279. The speed rating is the maximum speed a tire is certified to carry a load. Speed ratings range from A to Z.

Tire Terminology and Definitions

Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa).

Accessory Weight: This means the combined weight of optional accessories. Some examples of optional accessories are, automatic transmission/ transaxle, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air conditioning.

Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire’s height to its width.

Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials.

Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim.

Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the plies are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.

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Cold Tire Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up heat from driving. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 413.

Curb Weight: This means the weight of a motor vehicle with standard and optional equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil, and coolant, but without passengers and cargo.

DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identification Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand, and date of production.

GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 332.

GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front axle. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 332.

GAWR RR: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 332.

Intended Outboard Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire, that must always face outward when mounted on a vehicle. Kilopascal (kPa): The metric unit for air pressure. Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: A tire used on light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles. Load Index: An assigned number ranging from 1 to 279 that corresponds to the load carrying capacity of a tire. Maximum Inflation Pressure: The maximum air pressure to which a cold tire may be inflated. The maximum air pressure is molded onto the sidewall. Maximum Load Rating: The load rating for a tire at the maximum permissible inflation pressure for that tire. Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight: The sum of curb weight, accessory weight, vehicle capacity weight, and production options weight. Normal Occupant Weight: The number of occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 332.

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Occupant Distribution: Designated seating positions. Outward Facing Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that faces outward when mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears white lettering, or bears manufacturer, brand, and/ or model name molding that is higher or deeper than the same moldings on the other sidewall of the tire. Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: A tire used on passenger cars and some light duty trucks and multipurpose vehicles. Recommended Inflation Pressure: Vehicle manufacturer’s recommended tire inflation pressure as shown on the tire placard. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 413 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 332. Radial Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. Rim: A metal support for a tire and upon which the tire beads are seated. Sidewall: The portion of a tire between the tread and the bead.

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Speed Rating: An alphanumeric code assigned to a tire indicating the maximum speed at which a tire can operate.

Traction: The friction between the tire and the road surface. The amount of grip provided.

Tread: The portion of a tire that comes into contact with the road.

Treadwear Indicators: Narrow bands, sometimes called wear bars, that show across the tread of a tire when only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) of tread remains. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 418.

UTQGS (Uniform Tire Quality Grading Standards): A tire information system that provides consumers with ratings for a tire’s traction, temperature, and treadwear. Ratings are determined by tire manufacturers using government testing procedures. The ratings are molded into the sidewall of the tire. See Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 420.

Vehicle Capacity Weight: The number of designated seating positions multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg) plus the rated cargo load. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 332.

Vehicle Maximum Load on the Tire: Load on an individual tire due to curb weight, accessory weight, occupant weight, and cargo weight.

Vehicle Placard: A label permanently attached to a vehicle showing the vehicle’s capacity weight and the original equipment tire size and recommended inflation pressure. See “Tire and Loading Information Label” under Loading Your Vehicle on page 332.

Inflation - Tire Pressure Tires need the correct amount of air pressure to operate effectively. Notice: Do not let anyone tell you that under-inflation or over-inflation is all right. It is not. If your tires do not have enough air (under-inflation), you can get the following: (cid:127) Too much flexing (cid:127) Too much heat (cid:127) Tire overloading (cid:127) Premature or irregular wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Reduced fuel economy

If your tires have too much air (over-inflation), you can get the following: (cid:127) Unusual wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Rough ride (cid:127) Needless damage from road hazards A Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar). This label shows your vehicle’s original equipment tires and the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they are cold. The recommended cold tire inflation pressure, shown on the label, is the minimum amount of air pressure needed to support your vehicle’s maximum load carrying capacity. For additional information regarding how much weight your vehicle can carry, and an example of the Tire and Loading Information label, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 332. How you load your vehicle affects vehicle handling and ride comfort. Never load your vehicle with more weight than it was designed to carry.

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When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Do not forget to check the compact spare tire, it should be at 60 psi (420 kPa). For additional information regarding the compact spare tire, see Compact Spare Tire on page 450. How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You cannot tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they are under-inflated. Check the tire’s inflation pressure when the tires are cold. Cold means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km). Remove the valve cap from the tire valve stem. Press the tire gage firmly onto the valve to get a pressure measurement. If the cold tire inflation pressure matches the recommended pressure on the Tire and Loading Information label, no further adjustment is necessary. If the inflation pressure is low, add air until you reach the recommended amount.

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If you overfill the tire, release air by pushing on the metal stem in the center of the tire valve. Re-check the tire pressure with the tire gage. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.

Check Tire Pressure System Your vehicle may have a check tire pressure system that can alert you to a large change in the pressure of one tire. The system won’t alert you before you drive that a tire is low or flat. You must begin driving before the system will work properly. The LOW TIRE PRESSURE HOLD SET TO RESET message will appear on the Driver Information Center (DIC) and the LOW TIRE PRESSURE message will come on the message center if pressure difference, or low pressure, is detected in one tire. In the following conditions, the LOW TIRE PRESSURE message may not come on even if the tire pressure is low, or it may come on when the tire pressure is actually normal: (cid:127) More than one tire is low (cid:127) Only one tire is replaced with a new tire during

service

(cid:127) The vehicle is moving faster than

70 mph (113 km/h)

(cid:127) The system is not yet calibrated (cid:127) The tire treadwear is uneven (cid:127) The compact spare tire is installed (cid:127) Tire chains are being used (cid:127) The vehicle is being driven on a rough or

frozen road

If the anti-lock brake system warning light comes on, the check tire pressure system may not be working properly. See your dealer for service. Also, see Anti-Lock Brake System Warning Light on page 220. The check tire pressure system detects differences in tire rotation speeds that are caused by changes in tire pressure. The system can alert you about a low tire – but it does not replace normal tire maintenance. See Tires on page 406.

When the LOW TIRE PRESSURE HOLD SET TO RESET message appears on the Driver Information Center and the LOW TIRE PRESSURE message comes on the message center, you should stop as soon as you can and check all your tires for damage. If a tire is flat, see If a Tire Goes Flat on page 427. Also check the tire pressure in all four tires as soon as you can. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 413. Any time you adjust a tire’s pressure or have one or more tires repaired or replaced, you’ll need to reset, or calibrate, the check tire pressure system. You’ll also need to reset the system whenever you rotate the tires, buy new tires and install or remove the compact spare. Do not reset the check tire pressure system without first correcting the cause of the problem and checking and adjusting the pressure in all four tires. If you reset the system when the tire pressures are incorrect, the check tire pressure system will not work properly and may not alert you when a tire is low or high.

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To reset the system, do the following: 1. With the engine off, turn the ignition to ON. 2. Press the MODE button until the DIC reads

LOW TIRE PRESSURE HOLD SET TO RESET.

3. Press and hold the SET button until you hear

a chime, and TIRE PRESSURE RESET is displayed.

You will hear three chimes, then the LOW TIRE PRESSURE message will go off and the DIC will return to TIRE PRESSURE NORMAL. If the LOW TIRE PRESSURE message comes back on, the check tire pressure system has not reset. Repeat the procedure. The system completes the calibration process during driving. The system learns the pressure at each tire throughout the operating speed range of your vehicle. The system normally takes between 30 and 60 minutes of driving to learn the tire pressures. The system normally takes 10 to 20 minutes of driving in each speed range to learn tire pressures. The speed ranges are 20 to 40 mph (32 to 64 km/h), 40 to 60 mph (64 to 96 km/h), and above 60 mph (96 km/h). This time may be longer depending on your

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individual driving habits. The learning process does not need to be completed during a single trip. Once learned, the system will remember the tire pressure until the system is reset.

Tire Inspection and Rotation Tires should be rotated every 5,000 to 8,000 miles (8 000 to 13 000 km). Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 418 and Wheel Replacement on page 422 for more information. Make sure the spare tire is stored securely. Push, pull, and then try to rotate or turn the tire, If it moves, use the folding wrench to tighten the cable. See Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools on page 444. The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The first rotation is the most important. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 475.

When rotating your tires, always use the correct rotation pattern shown here. Do not include the compact spare tire in your tire rotation. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the Tire and Loading Information label. Reset the check tire pressure system, if equipped. See Check Tire Pressure System on page 414.

Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” under Capacities and Specifications on page 469.

{CAUTION:

Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if needed, to get all the rust or dirt off. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 428.

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Buying New Tires GM has developed and matched specific tires for your vehicle. The original equipment tires installed on your vehicle, when it was new, were designed to meet General Motors Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC spec) system rating. If you need replacement tires, GM strongly recommends that you get tires with the same TPC Spec rating. This way, your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give the same performance and vehicle safety, during normal use, as the original tires. GM’s exclusive TPC Spec system considers over a dozen critical specifications that impact the overall performance of your vehicle, including brake system performance, ride and handling, traction control, and tire pressure monitoring performance. GM’s TPC Spec number is molded onto the tire’s sidewall by the tire manufacturer.

When It Is Time for New Tires

One way to tell when it is time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining.

You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true: (cid:127) You can see the indicators at three or more

places around the tire.

(cid:127) You can see cord or fabric showing through

the tire’s rubber.

(cid:127) The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut, or

snagged deep enough to show cord or fabric.

(cid:127) The tire has a bump, bulge, or split. (cid:127) The tire has a puncture, cut, or other damage

that cannot be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage.

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If the tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC spec number will be followed by an MS for mud and snow. See Tire Sidewall Labeling on page 407 for additional information.

{CAUTION:

Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes, brands, or types (radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes, brands, or types may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the correct size, brand, and type of tires on all wheels. It is all right to drive with your compact spare temporarily, as it was developed for use on your vehicle. See Compact Spare Tire on page 450.

{CAUTION:

If you use bias-ply tires on your vehicle, the wheel rim flanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle.

If you must replace your vehicle’s tires with those that do not have a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating, and construction type (radial and bias-belted tires) as your vehicle’s original tires. Your vehicle’s original equipment tires are listed on the Tire and Loading Information Label. This label is attached to the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 332, for more information about the Tire and Loading Information Label and its location on your vehicle.

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Different Size Tires and Wheels If you add wheels or tires that are a different size than your original equipment wheels and tires, this may affect the way your vehicle performs, including its braking, ride and handling characteristics, stability, and resistance to rollover. Additionally, if your vehicle has electronic systems such as, anti-lock brakes, traction control, and electronic stability control, the performance of these systems can be affected.

{CAUTION:

If you add different sized wheels, your vehicle may not provide an acceptable level of performance and safety if tires not recommended for those wheels are selected. You may increase the chance that you will crash and suffer serious injury. Only use GM specific wheel and tire systems developed for your vehicle, and have them properly installed by a GM certified technician.

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See Buying New Tires on page 418 and Accessories and Modifications on page 354
for additional information.

Uniform Tire Quality Grading Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum section width. For example: Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA), which grades tires by treadwear, traction, and temperature performance. This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States. The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG) system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver, or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires.

While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards. Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1.5) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices, and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction – AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance.

Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics. Temperature – A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.

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Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The tires and wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. Adjustments to wheel alignment and tire balancing will not be necessary on a regular basis. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling to one side or the other, the alignment may need to be checked. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your tires and wheels may need to be rebalanced. See your dealer for proper diagnosis.

Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked, or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your dealer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need. Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces.

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If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts, or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts for your vehicle.

{CAUTION:

Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts, or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts for replacement.

Notice: The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance, and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 428 for more information. Used Replacement Wheels

{CAUTION:

Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is dangerous. You cannot know how it has been used or how far it has been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause a crash. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new GM original equipment wheel.

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Tire Chains

{CAUTION:

Do not use tire chains. There is not enough clearance. Tire chains used on a vehicle without the proper amount of clearance can cause damage to the brakes, suspension, or other vehicle parts. The area damaged by the tire chains could cause you to lose control of your vehicle and you or others may be injured in a crash.

CAUTION:

(Continued)

CAUTION:

(Continued)

Use another type of traction device only if its manufacturer recommends it for use on your vehicle and tire size combination and road conditions. Follow that manufacturer’s instructions. To help avoid damage to your vehicle, drive slowly, readjust or remove the device if it is contacting your vehicle, and do not spin the wheels. If you do find traction devices that will fit, install them on the front tires for front-wheel-drive vehicles. If your vehicle has all-wheel drive, install traction devices on either the front tires or all four tires, but never on the rear tires only.

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Accessory Inflator Your vehicle may have an accessory inflator. With it, you can inflate things like air mattresses and basketballs, and you can also use it to bring your tires up to the proper pressure. The accessory inflator is located in the rear compartment on the driver’s side. To remove the cover, pull the tab on the cover and pull it off.

This is the symbol on the accessory inflator switch.

There may be an accessory inflator kit stored in the glove box. It includes a 20-foot (6 m) hose with an air pressure gage and nozzle adapters.

{CAUTION:

Inflating something too much can make it explode, and you or others could be injured. Be sure to read the inflator instructions, and inflate any object only to its recommended pressure.

To use your accessory inflator system, do the following:

1. Turn the ignition to ACCESSORY or ON. 2. Attach the appropriate nozzle adapter,

if required, to the end of the hose that has the pressure gage.

3. Attach that end of the hose to the object you

wish to inflate.

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After running the accessory inflator for 30 minutes, wait at least 10 minutes before restarting the accessory inflator. To turn off the inflator, do the following: 1. Press the switch and detach the hose, first

from the inflated object, then from the outlet.

2. Put the protective cap back on. 3. Place the inflator kit tools in the pouch, and

store in the glove box.

To put the cover back on, line up the tabs at the back of the cover and put it in place. Push down the tab to secure the cover.

4. Remove the protective cap covering the outlet. 5. Attach the other end of the hose to the

outlet.

6. Press the accessory inflator switch. The light in the switch will come on to show the system is working.

If the accessory inflator system does not turn on or the light does not come on, the fuse may be blown or installed incorrectly. See Fuses and Circuit Breakers on page 463 or see your dealer for service. Your accessory inflator will automatically shut off after about 10 minutes. The light in the switch will blink. After about one minute you can use the system again. Press the inflator switch and the indicator light will come on. Notice: longer than 30 minutes at a time, you could damage the inflator. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Run the inflator for short periods of time only.

If you run the accessory inflator

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If a Tire Goes Flat It is unusual for a tire to blowout while you are driving, especially if you maintain your vehicle’s tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it is much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a blowout, here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane.

A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you would use in a skid. In any rear blowout remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop, well off the road if possible.

{CAUTION:

Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do maintenance or repairs is dangerous without the appropriate safety equipment and training. The jack provided with your vehicle is designed only for changing a flat tire. If it is used for anything else, you or others could be badly injured or killed if the vehicle slips off the jack. Use the jack provided with your vehicle only for changing a flat tire.

If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use the jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.

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CAUTION:

(Continued)

3. Turn off the engine and do not restart

while the vehicle is raised.

4. Do not allow passengers to remain in

the vehicle.

To be even more certain the vehicle will not move, you should put blocks at the front and rear of the tire farthest away from the one being changed. That would be the tire, on the other side, at the opposite end of the vehicle.

Changing a Flat Tire If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your vehicle’s hazard warning flashers. See Hazard Warning Flashers on page 176 for more information.

{CAUTION:

Changing a tire can be dangerous. The vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over or fall on you or other people. You and they could be badly injured or even killed. Find a level place to change your tire. To help prevent the vehicle from moving:

1. Set the parking brake firmly. 2. Put the shift lever in PARK (P).

CAUTION:

(Continued)

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When your vehicle has a flat tire, use the following example as a guide to assist you in the placement of wheel blocks.

Removing the Spare Tire and Tools

The following information will tell you next how to use the jack and change a tire.

The equipment you will need is located in the storage compartment on the passenger’s side, at the rear of the vehicle. 1. Open the jack storage compartment by lifting

up the tab and pulling the cover off.

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3. Separate the jack and remove the folding

wrench from the jack.

A. Jack B. Wing Bolt C. Jacking

Instructions

D. Folding Wrench E. Wing Nut F. J-Hook

2. Remove the jack and jacking tools by turning

the wing bolt counterclockwise. Lift up slightly on the jack to remove it from the bracket. Then take it out of the storage compartment.

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The tools you will be using include the jack (A), folding wrench (B), wing nut (C), and J-hook (D). Removing the Spare Tire (Vehicles without a Rear Convenience Center) The compact spare tire is located under the vehicle, behind the rear bumper. Use the spare tire hoist to raise, lower and store the compact spare tire. See Compact Spare Tire on page 450
for more information about the compact spare.

A. Hoist Shaft B. Folding Wrench C. Hoist Assembly

D. Retainer E. Compact Spare Tire

1. Flip the rear cargo area carpet cut out to

expose the hoist shaft.

2. Attach the folding wrench into the hoist shaft. 3. Turn the folding wrench counterclockwise

to lower the spare tire to the ground. Continue turning the wrench until the spare tire can be pulled out from under the vehicle.

4. Tilt the retainer and slip it through the wheel

opening to remove the spare tire from the cable.

5. Turn the wrench clockwise to raise the cable

back up after removing the spare tire. Do not store a full-size or a flat road tire under the vehicle. See Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools on page 444.

To continue changing the flat tire, see Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire on page 436.

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3. Loosen the cable by turning the wrench

counterclockwise three or four turns.

4. If the spare tire has not lowered, tighten the cable all the way and then loosen it at least two times. If the spare tire did lower to the ground, continue with Step 4 under “Removing the Spare Tire (Vehicles without the Rear Convenience Center)” listed previously.

5. If you still cannot lower the spare tire to the

ground, see Secondary Latch System on page 441.

Removing the Spare Tire (Vehicles with a Rear Convenience Center) The compact spare tire is located under the vehicle, ahead of the rear bumper. See Compact Spare Tire on page 450 for more information about the compact spare.

If the spare tire will not lower, the secondary latch may be engaged causing the tire not to lower. Do the following to check the cable: 1. Check under the vehicle to see if the cable is

visible.

2. If it is not visible, see Secondary Latch

System on page 441. If it is visible, first try to tighten the cable by turning the folding wrench clockwise until you hear two clicks or feel it skip twice. You cannot over-tighten the cable.

432

A. Rear Convenience

Center

B. Folding Wrench C. Storage

Compartment Cap Hole

D. Hoist Shaft E. Compact Spare Tire F. Retainer G. Hoist Shaft

Assembly

1. Open the storage compartment door of the

convenience center that is nearest the liftgate and remove the cap on the bottom of the storage compartment.

2. Flip the cut out carpet that is located through

the hole of the storage compartment.

3. Attach the folding wrench into the hoist shaft. 4. Turn the folding wrench counterclockwise

to lower the spare tire to the ground. Continue turning the wrench until the spare tire can be pulled out from under the vehicle.

433

If the spare tire will not lower, the secondary latch may be engaged causing the tire not to lower.

5. Tilt the retainer and slip it through the wheel

opening to remove the spare tire from the cable.

6. Turn the wrench clockwise to raise the cable

back up after removing the spare tire. Do not store a full-size or a flat road tire under the vehicle. See Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools on page 444.

To continue changing the flat tire, see Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire on page 436.

434

Do the following to check the cable: 1. Check under the vehicle to see if the cable is

visible.

2. If it is not visible, see Secondary Latch

System on page 441. If it is visible, first try to tighten the cable by turning the folding wrench clockwise until you hear two clicks or feel it skip twice. You cannot over-tighten the cable.

3. Loosen the cable by turning the wrench

counterclockwise three or four turns.

4. If the spare tire has not lowered, tighten the cable all the way and then loosen it at least two times. If the spare tire did lower to the ground, continue with Step 5 under “Removing the Spare Tire (Vehicles with the Rear Convenience Center)” listed previously.

5. If you still cannot lower the spare tire to the

ground, see Secondary Latch System on page 441.

435

Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire 1. If there is a wheel cover, loosen the plastic nut caps with the wheel wrench. They will not come off. Then, using the flat end of the wheel wrench, pry along the edge of the cover until it comes off. Be careful; the edges may be sharp. Do not try to remove the cover with your bare hands. If your vehicle has aluminum wheels, remove the wheel nut caps using the wheel wrench.

436

2. Loosen the wheel nuts, but do not remove

them, using the folding wrench. Turn the handle about 180 degrees, then flip the handle back to the starting position. This avoids taking the wrench off the lug nut for each turn. For wheels with a wheel lock key, use the wheel lock key between the lock nut and folding wrench. The key is supplied in the front passenger door pocket.

Notice: If your vehicle has wheel locks and you