1994 Buick Park Avenue Owners Manual

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Here are some tips for winter driving:

Have your Buick in good shape for winter. Be sure your engine coolant mix is correct. You may want to put winter emergency supplies in your trunk.

Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a supply of windshield washer fluid, a rag, some winter outer clothing, a small shovel, a flashlight, a red cloth, and a couple of reflective warning triangles. And, if you will be driving under severe conditions, include a small bag of sand, a piece of old carpet or a couple of burlap bags .to help provide traction. Be sure you properly secure these items in your vehicle.

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Driving on Snow or Ice Most of the time, those places where your tires meet the road probably have good traction. However, if there is snow or ice between your tires and the road, you can have a very slippery situation. You’ll have a lot less traction or “grip” and will need to be very careful.

What’s the worst time for this? “Wet ice.” Very cold snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice can be even more trouble because it may offer the least traction of all. You can get “wet ice” when it’s about freezing (32°F; O O C ) and freezing rain begins to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews can get there. Whatever the condition -- smooth ice, packed, blowing or loose snow -- drive with caution. If you have traction control, keep the system on. It will improve your ability to accelerate when driving on a slippery road. Even though your vehicle has a traction control system, you’ll want to slow down and adjust your driving to the road conditions. See “Traction Control System” in the Index. If you don’t have the traction control system, accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction. If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and polish the surface under the tires even more.

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Your anti-lock brakes improve your ability to make a hard stop on a slippery road. Even though you have the anti-lock braking system, you’ll want to begin stopping sooner than you would on dry pavement. See “Anti-lock” in the Index.

Allow greater following distance on any slippery road. Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine until you hit a spot that’s covered with ice. On an otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in shaded areas where the sun can’t reach: around clumps of trees, behind buildings, or under bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass may remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you are on it. Try not to brake while you’re actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers.

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If You’re Caught in a Blizzard

If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a serious situation. You should probably stay with your vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near help and you can hike through the snow. Here are some things to do to summon help and keep yourself and your passengers safe: Turn on your hazard flashers. Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police that you’ve been stopped by the snow. Put on extra clothing or wrap a

blanket around you. If you have no blankets or extra clothing, make body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags, floor mats -- anything you can wrap around yourself or tuck under your clothing to keep warm. You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.

Towing a Trailer

Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps the battery charged. You will need a well-charged battery to restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with your headlights. Let the heater run for awhile. Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again and repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or so until help comes.

NOTICE: Pulling a trailer improperly can damage your vehicle and result in costly repairs not covered by your warranty. To pull a trailer correctly, follow the advice in this section, and see your Buick dealer for important information about towing a trailer with your vehicle .

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Your car can tow a trailer if it is equipped with the 3800 (L27) engine or (L67) Supercharged engine and proper trailer towing equipment. To identify what the vehicle trailering capacity is for your vehicle, you should read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this section. But trailering is different than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, durability, and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly. That’s the reason for this section. In it are many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before you pull a trailer. Load-pulling components such as the engine, transaxle, wheel assemblies, and tires are forced to work harder against the drag of the added weight. The engine is required to operate at relatively higher speeds and under greater loads, generating extra heat. What’s more, the trailer adds considerably to wind resistance, increasing the pulling requirements.

If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer If you do, here are some important points.

There are many different laws having to do with trailering. Make sure your rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you’ll be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police. Consider using a sway control if your trailer will weigh 2,000 pounds (900 kg) or less. You should always use a sway control if your trailer will weigh more than 2,000 pounds (900 kg).

You can ask a hitch dealer about sway controls.

Don’t tow a trailer at all during the first 500 miles (800 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine, axle or other parts could be damaged.

0 Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that you

tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the heavier loads.

Three important considerations have to do with weight:

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Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It should never weigh more than 1,000 pounds (450 kg), unless you have the optional 3,000 pound (1350 kg) trailer towing package. But even that can be too heavy. It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. And, it can also depend on any special equipment that you have on your vehicle. You can ask your dealer for our trailering information or advice, or you can write us at Buick Motor Division, Customer Assistance Center, 902 E. Hamilton Avenue, Flint, MI 48550. In Canada, write to General Motors of Canada Limited, Customer Assistance Center, 1908 Colonel Sam Drive, Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7. Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total capacity weight of your vehicle. The capacity weight includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. And

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if you will tow a trailer, you must subtract the tongue load from your vehicle’s capacity weight because your vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index for more information about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.

If you’re using a “dead-weight” hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 10% of the total loaded trailer weight (B). If you have a “weight-distributing” hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 12% of the total loaded trailer weight (B).

After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they aren’t, you may be able to get them right simply by moving some items around in the trailer. Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the limit for cold tires. You’ll find these numbers on the Certification label at the rear edge of the driver’s door or see “Loading Your Vehicle’’ in the Index. Then be sure you don’t go over the GVW limit for your vehicle. Hitches It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by, and rough roads are a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch. Here are some rules to follow:

If you’ll be pulling a trailer that, when loaded, will weigh more than 2,000 pounds (900 kg), be sure to use a properly mounted, weight-distributing hitch and sway control of the proper size. This equipment is very important for proper vehicle loading and good handling when you’re driving.

0 Will you have to make any holes in the body of your

vehicle when you install a trailer hitch? If you do, then be sure to seal the holes later when you remove

the hitch. If you don’t seal them, deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from your exhaust can get into your vehicle (see “Carbon Monoxide’’ in the Index). Dirt and water can, too. The bumpers on your vehicle are not intended for hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or other bumper-type hitches to them. Use only a frame-mounted hitch that does not attach to the bumper.

Safety Chains You should always attach chains between your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer so that the tongue will not drop to the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety chains. Always leave just enough slack so you can turn with your rig. And, never allow safety chains to drag on the ground. Trailer Brakes If your trailer weighs more than 1,000 pounds (450 kg) loaded, then it needs its own brakes -- and they must be adequate. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for

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the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install, adjust and maintain them properly. Because you have anti-lock brakes, do not try to tap into you vehicle’s brake system. If you do, both brake systems won’t work well, or at all. Driving with a Trailer Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly so responsive as your vehicle is by itself. Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform, safety chains, electrical connector, lights, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your electrical connection at the same time. During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lights and any trailer brakes are still working.

Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns. Passing You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane. Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you. Making Turns When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees, or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.

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Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have a different turn signal flasher and extra wiring. The green arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lights will also flash, telling other drivers you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop. When towing a trailer, the green arrows on your instrument panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working. Your vehicle has bulb warning lights. When you plug trailer lights into your vehicle’s lighting system, its bulb warning lights may not let you know if one of your lights goes out. So, when you have trailer lights plugged in, be sure to check your vehicle and trailer lights from time to time to be sure they’re all working. Once you disconnect the trailer lights, the bulb warning lights again can tell you if one of your vehicle lights is out. Driving On Grades Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift

down, you might have to use your brakes so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. On a long uphill grade, shift down to “D or 3” (Drive) and reduce your speed to around 45 mph (70 km/h) to reduce the possibility of engine and transaxle overheating. Parking on Hills You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged. But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s how to do it: 1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into “P”

(Park) yet.

2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels. 3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.

4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking

brake, and the shift to “P” (Park).

5. Release the regular brakes.

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When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down

while you:

Start your engine;

0 Shift into a gear; and 0 Release the parking brake.

2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks. 4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks.

Maintenance When Trailer Towing Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more on this. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transaxle fluid (don’t overfill), engine oil, belts, cooling system, and brake adjustment. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review these sections before you start your trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight.

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Part 5 Problems on the Road

Here you’ll find what to do about some problems that can occur on the road . Part 5 includes:

. . . . Hazard Warning Flashers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Other Wa-ning Devices . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . “Jump”Starting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . TowingYourBuick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Engineoverheating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . IfaTireGoesFlat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ChangingaFlatTire . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Compact Spare Tire . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . If You’re Stuck in Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

196 197 198 203 207 214 215 224 225

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Hazard Warning Flashers

Your hazard warning flashers let you warn others. They also let police know you have a problem. Your front and rear turn signal lights will flash on and off.

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Press the button in to make your front and rear turn signal lights flash on and off.

To turn off the flashers, pull out on the collar.

Your hazard warning flashers work no matter what position your key is in, and even if the key isn’t in.

When the hazard warning flashers are on, your turn signals won’t work. Other Warning Devices If you carry reflective triangles, you can set one up at the side of the road about 300 feet (100 m) behind your vehicle.

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Jump Starting If your battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your Buick. But please follow the steps below to do it safely.

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I NOTICE:

Ignoring these steps could result in costly damage to your vehicle that wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your Buick by pushing or pulling it won’t work, and it could damage your vehicle.

To Jump Start Your Buick: 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt

battery with a negative ground system.

NOTICE: If the other system isn’t a 12-volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged.

2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles aren’t touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you don‘t want. You wouldn’t be able to start your Buick, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems.

You could be injured if the vehicles roll. Set the parking brake firmly on each vehicle. Put an automatic transaxle in “P” (Park) or a manual transaxle in “N” (Neutral).

3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Turn off the

radios and all lights that aren’t needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. It could save your radio!

NOTICE: If you leave your radio on, it could be badly damaged. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.

4. Open the hoods and locate the batteries.

Find the positive (+) and negative (-) terminals on each battery.

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Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) and negative (-) will go to negative (-) or a metal engine part. Don’t connect (+) to (-) or you’ll get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts, too.

5. Check that the jumper cables don’t have loose or

missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock and the vehicles could be damaged.

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6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the vehicle with the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

7. Don't let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

8. Now connect the black negative (-) cable to the good battery's negative (-) terminal.

Don't let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative cable -doesn't go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy unpainted metal part on the engine of the vehicle with the dead battery.

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12. Remove the cables in reverse order to prevent

electrical shorting. Take care that they don’t touch each other or any other metal.

9. Attach the cable at least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, but the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less.

10. Now start the vehicle with the good batter!

y and rl

irn

the engine for a while.

11. Try to start the vehicle with the dead battery.

If it won’t start after a few tries, it probably needs service.

DEAD BAlTERY

Remove the cables in this order.

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Towing Your Park Avenue Try to have a GM dealer or a professional towing service tow your Buick. The usual towing equipment is a sling-type (A), wheel-lift (B) or car carrier (C) tow truck.

If your vehicle has been changed or modified since it was factory-new by adding after market items like fog lamps, aero skirting, or special tires and wheels, these instructions and illustrations may not be correct. Before you do anything, turn on the hazard warning flashers. When you call, tell the towing service:

That your vehicle has front-wheel drive.

0 The make, model, and year of your vehicle. Whether you can still move the shift lever.

0 If there was an accident, what was damaged. When the towing service arrives, let the tow operator know that this manual contains detailed towing instructions and illustrations. The operator may want to see them.

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in Neutral and the parking brake released.

When your vehicle is being towed, have the ignition key off. The steering wheel should be clamped in a straight-ahead position, with a clamping device designed for towing service. Do not use the vehicle’s steering column lock for this. The transaxle should be Don’t have your vehicle towed on the front wheels, unless you must. If the vehicle must be towed on the front wheels, don’t go more than 55 mph (88 km/h) or farther than 500 miles (800 km) or your transaxle will be damaged. If these limits must be exceeded, then the front wheels have to be supported on a dolly.

Front Towing Hookups

Attach “T” hook chains behind the front wheels into the bottom slots of the cradle rails on both sides.

Position a 4” x 4” wood beam across the sling chains contacting the bottom of the radiator support. Position the lower sling crossbar just behind the rear edge of the front bumper.

Attach a separate safety chain around the outboard end of each lower control arm.

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Rear Towing Hookups

Attach “T” hook chains to the slots in the bottom of the floor pan of the rear wheels on both sides.

Position the lower sling crossbar directly under the rear bumper. A 4” x 4” wood beam is not needed.

Attach a separate safety chain around the outboard end of each lower control arm.

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Engine Overheating You will find a warning light about a hot engine on your Buick instrument panel and if you have the optional gage cluster, a coolant temperature gage. You will also find a low coolant warning light. If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine

NOTICE: If your engine catches fire because you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty.

If NO Steam Is Coming From Your Engine If you get the overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you:

Climb a long hill on a hot day. Stop after high speed driving. 0 Idle for long periods in traffic. 0 Tow a trailer.

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If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. Turn off your air conditioner. 2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan

speed and open the window as necessary.

3. If you’re in a traffic jam, shift to “N” (Neutral). If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about ten minutes. If the warning doesn’t come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there’s still no sign of steam, you can idle the engine for two or three minutes while you’re parked, to see if the warning stops. But then, if you still have the warning, TURN OFF THE ENGINE AND GET EVERYONE OUT OF THE VEHICLE until it cools down. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.

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When you decide it’s safe to lift the hood, here’s what you’ll see:

Coolant recovery tank Radiator pressure cap

0 Electric engine fans

If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, don’t do anything else until it cools down.

The coolant level should be at or above “FULL COLD.” If it isn’t, you may have a leak in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system.

I NOTICE: I Engine damage from running your engine

without coolant isn’t covered by your warranty.

If there seems to be no leak, check to see if the electric engine fans are running. If the engine is overheating, both fans should be running. If they aren’t, your vehicle needs service.

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How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Recovery Tank If you haven’t found a problem yet, but the coolant level isn’t at or above the “FULL COLD” mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean water (preferably distilled) and a proper antifreeze at the coolant recovery tank. (See “Engine Coolant’’ in the Index for more information about the proper coolant mix.)

NOTICE: In cold weather, water can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant.

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When the coolant in the coolant recovery tank is at or above the “FULL COLD” mark, start your vehicle. If the overheat warning continues, there’s one more thing you can try. You can add the proper coolant mix directly to the radiator but be sure the cooling system is cool before you do it.

How to Add Coolant to the Radiator

" I

1. You can remove the radiator pressure cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly to the left until it first stops. (Don't press down while turning the pressure cap.) If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.

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3. Fill the radiator with the proper mix, up to the base of the filler neck.

6. Start the engine and

let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine fans.

4. Then fill the coolant recovery tank to “FULL COLD.” 5. Put the cap back on the coolant recovery tank, but

leave the radiator pressure cap off.

7 . By this time the coolant level inside the radiator

filler neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper mix through the filler neck until the level reaches the base of the filler neck.

8. Then replace the pressure cap. At any time during this procedure if coolant begins to flow out of the filler neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure the arrows on pressure cap line up like this.

If a Tire Goes Flat It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving, especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane. A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you’d use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop, well off the road if possible. If a tire goes flat, the next section shows how to use your jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.

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Changing a Flat Tire If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard warning flashers.

The following steps will tell you how to use the jack and change a tire.

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Start with the jack and the wheel wrench.

The equipment you'll need is in the trunk.

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The jack has a bolt at the end. Attach the wheel wrench to the jack bolt.

If your Buick has a wheel cover, you must take it off to reach the wheel nuts.

' A

If your vehicle has an aluminum wheel with a center cover, remove it using the flat end of the wheel wrench.

Rotate the wheel wrench clockwise (to the right). That will raise the lift head a little.

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If your vehicle has this aluminum wheel, you may have plastic wheel nut caps. Use the wheel nut wrench to remove the wheel nut caps and to loosen the wheel nuts.

Use the wire wheel key wrench to remove the wire wheel cover.

When reinstalling the decorative nut caps, tighten the caps snug with the wheel wrench, then continue 1/8 rotation for steel caps and 1/4 rotation for plastic caps.

If your vehicle has wire wheel covers, remove them as follows:

Using the flat end of the key wrench-handle, between the wire wheel cover and the center cap, pry off the center cap.

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Remove the theft deterrent wheel nut, by placing the key end of the wire wheel key wrench over the nut and turning it to the left. Pull off the wire wheel cover. Note: When reppacing the wheel cover, carefully line up the tire valve stem and the notch in the wheel cover.

54

.,’

Using the wheel wrench, loosen all the wheel nuts. Don’t remove them yet. Next, attach the wheel wrench to the bolt on the end of the jack. Raise the jack a little by rotating the wheel wrench clockwise (to the right).

The jack handle has markings at 8” for the rear and 10” for the front, which will help you to locate the jacking notches in the frame.

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Position the jack under the vehicle. There is a notch in the frame near each of the wheels. Fit the top of the jack into the notch nearest the wheel with the flat tire.

I NOTICE:

Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned will damage the vehicle or may allow fit the the vehicle to fall off the jack. Be sure to jack lift head into the proper location before raising your vehicle.

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Raise the vehicle by rotating the wheel wrench clockwise. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so there is enough room for the spare tire to fit.

Remove all the wheel nuts and take off the flat tire.

Remove any rust or dirt from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces or spare wheel.

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Place the spare on the wheel mounting surface.

Replace the wheel nuts with the rounded end of the nuts toward the wheel. Tighten each nut by hand until the wheel is held against the hub.

Lower the vehicle by rotating the wheel wrench counterclockwise. Lower the jack completely.

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Tighten the wheel nuts firmly in a criss-cross sequence as shown.

Don’t try to put a wheel cover on your compact spare tire. It won’t fit. Store the wheel cover in the trunk until you have the flat tire repaired or replaced.

Wheel covers won’t fit on your compact spare. If you try to put a wheel cover on your compact spare, you could damage the cover or the spare.

Now put all the equipment back in the trunk.

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Compact Spare Tire Although the compact spare was fully inflated when your vehicle was new, it can lose air after a time. Check the inflation pressure regularly. It should be 60 psi (420 kPa). After installing the compact spare on your vehicle, you should stop as soon as possible and make sure your spare tire is correctly inflated. The compact spare is made to perform well at posted speed limits for distances up to 3,000 miles (5 000 km). The compact spare is made to go up to 3,000 miles (5 000 km), so you can finish your trip and have your full-size tire repaired or replaced where you want. Of course, it’s best to replace your spare with a full-size tire as soon as you can. Your spare will last longer and be in good shape in case you need it again.

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If You’re Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow What you don’t want to do when your vehicle is stuck is to spin your wheels. The method known as “rocking” can help you get out when you’re stuck, but you must use caution.

NOTICE: Don’t take your compact spare through an automatic car wash with guide rails. The compact spare can get caught on the rails. That can damage the tire and wheel, and maybe other parts of your vehicle.

Don’t use your compact spare on some other vehicle. And don’t mix your compact spare or wheel with other wheels or tires. They won’t fit. Keep your spare and its wheel together.

I NOTICE:

Tire chains won’t fit your compact spare. Using them will damage your vehicle and destroy the chains too. Don’t use tire chains on your compact spare.

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NOTICE: Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting your transaxle back and forth, you can destroy your transaxle.

Rocking your vehicle to get it out: First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will clear the area around your front wheels. You should turn your traction control system off. (See “Traction Control System” in the Index.) Then shift back and forth between “R” (Reverse) and a forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transaxle is in gear. If that doesn’t get you out after a few tries, you may need to be towed out. If you do need to be towed out, see “Towing Your Car” in the Index.

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Part 6 Service and Appearance Care

Here you will find information about the care of your Buick . This part begins with service and fuel information. and then it shows how to check important fluid and lubricant levels . There is also technical information about your vehicle. and a section devoted to its appearance care . Part 6 includes:

Service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Fuel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HoodRelease . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Engineoil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Aircleaner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Automatic Transaxle Fluid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Enginecoolant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . PowerSteeringFluid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Windshield Washer Fluid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Brakes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Battery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . BulbReplacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Loading Your Vehicle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tires . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Appearancecare . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . FusesandCircuitBreakers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Capacities and Specifications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

228 229 234 238 243 244 247 250 251 252 255 256 258 260 268 276 277 282

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Service Your Buick dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you’ll go to your dealer for all your service needs. You’ll get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. We hope you’ll want to keep your GM vehicle all GM. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:

You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See “Maintenance Record” in the Index,

Doing Your Own Service Work If you want to do some of your own service work, you’ll want to get the proper Buick Service Manual. It tells you much more about how to service your Buick than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see “Service Publications” in the Index. Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see “Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped Buick” in the Index. 228

I NOTICE:

If you try to do your own service work without knowing enough about it, your vehicle could be damaged.

Fuel 3800 (L27) Engine The 8th digit of your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) shows the code letter for your engine. You will find the VIN at the top left of your instrument panel. (See “Vehicle Identification Number’’ in the Index.) Use regular unleaded gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher. It should meet specifications ASTM D48 14 in the U.S. and CGSB 3.5-92 in Canada. These fuels should have the proper additives, so you should not have to add anything to the fuel. In the U.S. and Canada, it’s easy to be sure you get the right kind of gasoline (unleaded). You’ll see “UNLEADED” right on the pump. And only unleaded nozzles will fit into your vehicle’s filler neck. Be sure the posted octane is at least 87. If the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If it’s bad enough, it can damage your engine. If you’re using fuel rated at 87 octane or higher and you still hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service. But don’t worry if you hear a little pinging noise when you’re accelerating or driving up a hill. That’s normal,

and you don’t have to buy a higher octane fuel to get rid of pinging. It’s the heavy, constant knock that means you have a problem. What about gasoline with blending materials that contain oxygen (oxygenates), such as MTBE or alcohol? MTBE is “methyl tertiary-butyl ether.” Fuel that is no more than 15% MTBE is fine for your vehicle. Ethanol is ethyl or grain alcohol. Properly-blended fuel that is no more than 10% ethanol is fine for your vehicle. Methanol is methyl or wood alcohol.

NOTICE: Fuel that is more than 5% methanol is bad for your vehicle. Don’t use it. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage wouldn’t be covered under your warranty. And even at 5% or less, there must be “cosolvents” and corrosion preventers in this fuel to help avoid these problems.

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Gasolines for Cleaner Air Your use of gasoline with deposit control additives will help prevent deposits from forming in your engine and fuel system. That helps keep your engine in tune and your emission control system working properly. It’s good for your vehicle, and you’ll be doing your part for cleaner air. Many gasolines are now blended with oxygenates. General Motors recommends that you use gasolines with these blending materials, such as MTBE and ethanol. By doing so, you can help clean the air, especially in those parts of the country that have high carbon monoxide levels. In addition, some gasoline suppliers are now producing reformulated gasolines. These gasolines are specially designed to reduce vehicle emissions. General Motors recommends that you use reformulated gasoline. By doing so, you can help clean the air, especially in those parts of the country that have high ozone levels. You should ask your service station operators if their gasolines contain deposit control additives and oxygenates, and if they have been reformulated to reduce vehicle emissions.

Fuel 3800 Supercharged (L67) Engine The 8th digit of your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) shows the code letter for your engine. You will find the VIN at the top left of your instrument panel. (See “Vehicle Identification Number” in the Index.) Use premium unleaded gasoline rated at 91 octane or higher. You may use middle grade or regular unleaded gasolines, but your vehicle may not accelerate as well. The gasoline you use should meet specifications ASTM D48 14 i n the U.S. and CGSB 3.5-92 in Canada. These fuels should have the proper additives, so you should not have to add anything to the fuel. In the U.S. and Canada, it’s easy to be sure you get the right kind of gasoline (unleaded). You’ll see “UNLEADED” right on the pump. And only unleaded nozzles will fit into your vehicle’s’filler neck. Be sure the posted octane for premium is at least 91 (at least 89 for middle grade and 87 for regular). If the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If it’s bad enough, it can damage your engine. If you’re using fuel rated at 91 octane or higher and you still hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service.

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But don’t worry if you hear a little pinging noise when you’re accelerating or driving up a hill. That’s normal and you don’t have to buy a higher octane fuel to get rid of pinging. It’s the heavy, constant knock that means you have a problem. What about gasoline with blending materials that contain oxygen (oxygenates), such as MTBE or alcohol? MTBE is “methyl tertiary-butyl ether.’’ Fuel that is no more than 15% MTBE is fine for your vehicle. Ethanol is ethyl or grain alcohol. Properly-blended fuel that is no more than 10% ethanol is fine for your vehicle. Methanol is methyl or wood alcohol.

NOTICE: Fuel that is more than 5% methanol is bad for your vehicle. Don’t use it. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage wouldn’t be covered under your warranty. And even at 5% or less, there must be “cosolvents” and corrosion preventers in this fuel to help avoid these problems.

Gasolines for Cleaner Air Your use of gasoline with deposit control additives will help prevent deposits from forming in your engine and fuel system. That helps keep your engine in tune and your emission control system working properly. It’s good for your vehicle, and you’ll be doing your part for cleaner air. Many gasolines are now blended with oxygenates. General Motors recommends that you use gasolines with these blending materials, such as MTBE and ethanol. By doing so, you can help clean the air, especially in those parts of the country that have high carbon monoxide levels. In addition, some gasoline suppliers are now producing reformulated gasolines. These gasolines are specially designed to reduce vehicle emissions. General Motors recommends that you use reformulated gasoline. By doing so, you can help clean the air, especially in those parts of the country that have high ozone levels. You should ask your service station operators if their gasolines contain deposit control additives and oxygenates, and if they have been reformulated to reduce vehicle emissions.

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Filling Your Tank

The cap is behind a hinged door on the left side of your vehicle. To take off the cap, turn it slowly to the left (counterclockwise).

Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the U.S. or Canada, unleaded fuel may be hard to find. Do not use leaded gasoline. If you use even one tankful, your emission controls won’t work well or at all. With continuous use, spark plugs can get fouled, the exhaust system can corrode, and your engine oil can deteriorate quickly. Your vehicle’s oxygen sensor will be damaged. All of that means costly repairs that wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. To check on fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you’ll be driving. You can also write us at the following address for advice. Just tell us where you’re going and give your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN).

General Motors Overseas Distribution Corporation, North American Export Sales (NAES) 1908 Colonel Sam Drive Oshawa, Ontario L 1 H 8P7

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Or, you can use the release lever in the trunk.

The release button for the fuel door is to the left of the steering column.

While refueling, hang the cap inside the fuel door.

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Checking Things Under the Hood Hood Release

To open the hood, pull the handle inside the vehicle. It is located on the lower left side of the instrument panel.

Be careful not to spill gasoline. Clean gasoline from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See “Cleaning the Outside of Your Buick” in the Index. When you put the cap back on, turn it to the right until you hear a clicking noise.

NOTICE: If you need a new cap, be sure to get the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit or have proper venting, and your fuel tank and emissions system might be damaged.

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Then go to the front of the vehicle and locate the secondary hood release. It is under the front edge of the L- grille.

Lift up on this lever as you lift up the hood.

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Engine Accessory Belt

The 3800 (L27) engine uses an engine accessory belt. This diagram shows the features connected by the belt routing. See “Maintenance Schedule” in the Index for when to check the belt.

A. Power Steering B. Crank C. Coolant Pump

D. Air Conditioning E. Alternator E Tensioner

Before closing the hood, be sure all the filler caps are on properly. Then pull the hood down and close it firmly.

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3800 Supercharged (L67) Engine (Option) Your Park Avenue Ultra has a 3800 Supercharged engine. Buick chose supercharging rather than turbocharging because Buick emphasizes smooth, refined power. The Supercharger is a device which is designed to pump more air into the engine than it would normally use. This air mixed with fuel, creates increased engine power. Since the Supercharger is a pump and is driven from an engine accessory drive belt, increased pressure is available at all driving conditions. The powertrain control module (PCM), works with a vacuum control to regulate the increased pressure required during specific driving conditions. When this increased pressure or boost is not desired, such as during idling and light throttle cruising, the excess air that the Supercharger is pumping is routed through a bypass. All of these controls, working together provide high performance character and fuel efficiency in the 3800 V6 Supercharged Buick engine. The power steering pump uses a remote reservoir mounted on the throttle and cruise control cable bracket. See “Maintenance Schedule’’ in the Index for when you should check the fluid.

Engine Accessory Belt The Supercharged 3800 engine uses two accessory drive belts. One belt drives the generator and the power steering pump. The second belt drives the supercharger, coolant pump and air conditioning compressor. Each belt has its own tensioner and idler pulley.

1. Front Belt 2. Back belt A. Generator B. Power Steering Pump E Air Conditioning

C. Crank D. Supercharger E. Coolant Pump

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Supercharger Oil Unless you are technically qualified and have the proper tools, you should let your dealer or a qualified service center perform this maintenance. When to Check: Check oil level every 30,000 miles (50,000 km) or every 36 months. What Kind of Oil to Use: See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Use only the recommended oil. How to Check and Add Oil: Check oil only when the engine is cold. Allow the engine to cool 2 to 3 hours after running.

1. Remove the wiring harness shield. 2. Clean the area around the oil fill plug before

removing it.

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3. Remove the oil fill plug using a 3/16 allen wrench. 4. The oil level is correct when it just reaches the

bottom of the threads of the inspection hole.

5. Replace the oil plug with the O-ring in place. Torque

to 10 Nom (88 lb. in.).

6. Replace the wiring harness shield. Engine Oil

CHECK OIL LEVEL

If the “CHECK OIL LEVEL” light on the instrument panel comes on, it means you need to check your engine oil level right away.

For more information, see “CHECK OIL LEVEL” light in the Index. You should check your engine oil level regularly; this is an added reminder.

When to Add Oil If the oil is at or below the ADD line, then you’ll need to add some oil. But you must use the right kind. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For crankcase capacity, see “Capacities and Specifications” in the Index.

NOTICE: Don’t add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged.

Just fill it enough to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you’re through.

It’s a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.

To Check Engine Oil

The engine oil dipstick is directly behind the engine fan. Turn off the engine and give the oil a few minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you don’t, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.

Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip lower, and check the level.

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What Kind of Oil to Use Beginning midyear 1993, oils of the proper quality for your vehicle will be identified with this new “starburst” symbol. The “starburst” symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API), and is preferred for use in your gasoline engine.

You should look for this on the front of the oil container, and use only oils that display this new symbol. You should also use the proper viscosity oil for your vehicle, as shown in the following chart:

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RECOMMENDED SAE VISCOSITY GRADE ENGINE OILS

FOR BEST FUEL ECONOMY AND COLD STARTING, SELECT THE LOWEST SAE VISCOSITY GRADE OIL FOR THE EXPECTED TEMPERATURE RANGE.

LOOK FOR ONE OF THESE LABELS

HOT

WEATHER

/ ‘F %‘ +lo0 - - +38

+ 8 0 - - + 2 7

+ 6 0 - - + I 6 -

+ 4 0 - - + 4

+20 - - - 7

SAE 5W-30 a COLD WEATHER

SAE 1 OW-30 PREFERRED above 0°F

(-18°C)

IF NEITHER SAE 5W-30 NOR SAE 1OW-30 GRADE OILS ARE AVAILABLE, SAE 30 GRADE MAY BE USED AT TEMPERATURES ABOVE 40 DEGREES F (4 DEGREES C). DO NOT USE SAE 1OW-40, SAE 2OW-50 OR ANY OTHER GRADE OIL NOT RECOMMENDED

As shown in the chart, SAE 1OW-30 is best for your .vehicle. However, you can use SAE 5W-30 if it’s going to be colder than 60°F (16°C) before your next oil change. When it’s very cold, you should use SAE 5W-30. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils, such as SAE 1OW-40 or SAE 2OW-50. If you cannot find oils with the new “starburst” symbol on the front of the container, you should look for and use oils containing the following three things:

SH or SG “SH” or “SG” must be on the oil container, either by itself or combined with other quality designations, such as “SH/CD,” “SH,SG,CD,” “SG/CD” etc. These letters show American Petroleum Institute (API) levels of quality. SAE 1OW-30 Energy Conserving I1 Oils with these words on the container will help you save fuel.

These three things are usually included in a doughnut shaped logo (symbol) on most containers. If you cannot find oils with the “starburst” symbol, you should look for oils with the doughnut shaped symbol, containing the three things noted above.

NOTICE: If you use oils that do not have either the “starburst” symbol or an API SH or SG designation, you can cause engine damage not covered by your warranty.

GM Goodwrench@ oil (in Canada, GM Engine Oil) meets all the requirements for your vehicle.

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Engine Oil Additives Don’t add anything to your oil. Your Buick dealer is ready to advise if you think something should be added. When to Change Engine Oil See if any one of these is true for you:

Most trips are less than 4 miles (6 km). It’s below freezing outside and most trips are less than 10 miles (16 km). The engine is at low speed most of the time (as in door-to-door delivery, or in stop-and-go traffic).

0 You tow a trailer often.

Most trips are through dusty places.

If any one of these is true for your vehicle, then you need to change your oil and filter every 3,000 miles (5 000 km) or 3 months -- whichever comes first. (See “Change Oil Soon” in the Index.)

If none of them is true, change the oil every 7,500 miles (12 500 km) or 12 months -- whichever comes first. Change the filter at the first oil change and at every other oil change after that. If the optional “Change Oil Soon” light comes on you will need to change your oil sooner than either mileage specified. Depending upon driving habits, the “Change Oil Soon’’ light may come on as early as 2,000 miles or less from the last time the oil life monitor was reset (See “Oil Life Monitor” in the Index.) Always reset the oil life monitor after every oil change. Engine Coolant Heater (Engine Block Heater) An engine coolant heater can be a big help if you have to park outside in very cold weather, 0°F (- 18 “C) or colder. If your vehicle has this option, see “Engine Coolant Heater” in the Index.

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What to Do with Used Oil Did you know that used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer? Don’t let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly throw away clothing or rags containing used engine oil. (See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products.) Used oil can be a real threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all free-flowing oil from the filter before disposal. Don’t ever dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help.

Air Cleaner

The air cleaner is in the front right section of the engine compartment. To check or replace the filter, undo the wing screws and pull the air cleaner open. Replace the air filter, close the cover and tighten the wing screws.

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Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to replace the air filter. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.

NOTICE: If the air cleaner is off, a backfire can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner in place when you’re driving.

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Automatic Transaxle Fluid When to- Check and Change A good time to check your automatic transaxle fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to change your fluid. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services’’ in the Index. How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at a Buick dealership Service Department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.

NOTICE: Too much or too little fluid can damage your transaxle. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system, starting a fire. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transaxle fluid.

With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in "P" (Park).

0 Let the engine run at idle for three to five minutes. Then, without shutting off the engine. follow these steps:

I . Pull out the dipstick

and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.

Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transaxle fluid level if you have been driving: 0 When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C). 0 At high speed for quite a while. 0 In heavy traffic -- especially in hot weather. 0 While pulling a trailer. To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). If it's colder than 50°F (lO"C), you may have to drive longer.

To check the fluid level

Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine running.

0 With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever

in "P" (Park).

2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and

then pull it back out again.

3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower

level. The fluid level must be in the cross-hatched area.

4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the

dipstick back in all the way.

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How to Add Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transaxle fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants’’ in the Index. If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level into the cross-hatched area on the dipstick. 1. 2.

Pull out the dipstick. Using a long-neck funnel, add enough fluid at the dipstick hole to bring it to the proper 1evel.It doesn’t take much fluid, generally less than a pint (OSL). Don’t overfill. We recommend you use only fluid labeled DEXRON@-111 or DEXRON@-IIE, because fluids with that label are made especially for your automatic transaxle. Damage caused by fluid other than DEXRON@-I11 or DEXRON@-IIE is not covered by your new vehicle warranty. After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as described under “How to Check.” When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the dipstick back in all the way.

Engine Coolant The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see “Engine Overheating” in the Index. The proper coolant for your Buick will: 0 Give freezing protection down to -34°F (-37 “ C ) . 0 Give boiling protection up to 262°F (128 “C). 0 Protect against rust and corrosion. 0 Help keep the proper engine temperature,

Let the warning lights work as they should.

What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean water (preferably distilled) and one-half antifreeze that meets “GM Specification 1825-M,” which won’t damage aluminum parts. You can also use a recycled coolant conforming to GM Specification 1825-M with a complete coolant flush and refill. If you use this mixture, you don’t need to add anything else.

I NOTICE:

If you use an improper coolant mix, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mix can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts.

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Adding Coolant

The coolant recovery tank is located at the left of the engine compartment.

To Check Coolant When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at “FULL COLD’ or a little higher. When your engine is warm, the level should be up to “FULL HOT” or a little higher.

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COOLANT

LOW

If this light comes on, it means you’re low on engine coolant. To Add Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper mix at the coolant recovery tank.

Add coolant mix at the recovery tank, but be careful not to spill it.

Radiator Pressure Cap

Your radiator pressure cap is a 15 psi (1 05 kPa) pressure-type cap and must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss and possible engine damage from overheating. Be sure the arrows on the cap line up with the overflow tube on the radiator filler neck.

Wlien you replace your radiator pressure cap, ap AC@ cap is recommended. Thermostat Engine coolant temperature is controlled by a thermostat in the engine coolant system. The thermostat stops the flow of coolant through the radiator until the coolant reaches a preset temperature. When you replace your thermostat, an AC@ thermostat is recommended.

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0 When the engine compartment is cool, the level

should be at the “FULL COLD” mark.

What to Add Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.

NOTICE: When adding power steering fluid or making a complete fluid change, always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.

Power Steering Fluid

How To Check Power Steering Fluid Unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. Then remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on the dimtick.

When the engine compartment is hot, the level should be at the “HOT” mark.

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Windshield Washer Fluid To Add

Open the cap labeled “WASHER FLUID ONLY.” Add washer fluid until the bottle is full.

NOTICE:

~ ~

When using concentrated washer fluid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water. Don’t mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water doesn’t clean as well as washer fluid. Fill your washer fluid tank only 3/4 full when it’s very cold. This allows for expansion, which could damage the tank if it is completely full. Don’t use radiator antifreeze in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.

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Brakes Brake Master Cylinder Your brake master cylinder is here. It is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid.

fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes won’t work well, or won’t work at all. So, it isn’t a good idea to “top off’ your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid won’t correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you’ll have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add (or remove) brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in your master cylinder might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that

When your brake fluid falls to a low level, your brake warning light will come on. A chime will sound if you try to drive with this warning light on. See “Brake System Warning Light” in the Index.

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What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid -- such as Delco Supreme 11 No. 1052535). Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only, and always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap before removing it.

(GM Part

NOTICE: 0 DOT-5 silicone brake fluid can damage

your vehicle. Don’t use it. Don’t let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they’ll have to be replaced. Brake fluid can damage paint, so be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See “Appearance Care” in the Index.

Brake Wear Your Buick has front disc brakes and rear drum brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving (except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly).

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1 Brake Adiustment - - __-- - - - -- tJ-----------

I Every time you apply the brakes moderately, with or

without the vehicle moving, your brakes adjust for wear. Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a modern vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Vehicles we design and test have top-quality GM brake parts in them, as your Buick does when it is new. When you replace parts of your braking system -- for example, when your brake linings wear down and you have to have new ones put in -- be sure you get new genuine GM replacement parts. If you don’t, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change, for the worse. The braking performance you’ve come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.

I NOTICE: I Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads

could result in costly brake repair.

Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Your rear drum brakes don’t have wear indicators, but if you ever hear a rear brake rubbing noise, have the rear brake linings inspected. Also, the rear brake drums should be removed and inspected each time the tires are removed for rotation or changing. When you have the front brakes replaced, have the rear brakes inspected, too. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble.

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Battery Every new Buick has a Delco Freedom’ battery. You never have to add water to one of these. When it’s time for a new battery, we recommend a Delco Freedom’ battery. Get one that has the catalog number shown on the original battery’s label. Vehicle Storage If you’re not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, take off the black, negative (-) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.

Contact your dealer to learn how to prepare your vehicle for longer storage periods. Halogen Bulbs

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Headlamp Bulb Replacement

Remove the retainers by turning in a counter-clockwise direction.

Each headlamp is attached by retainers with round plastic knobs.

Lift the headlamp away from the car.

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Turn the bulb socket 1/4 turn counter-clockwise, while pressing it firmly. Remove the wire connector from the bulb by lifting the lock tab and pulling it away from the plastic base.

Taillamp Bulb Replacement

Open the trunk. On either side of the rear of the trunk are two plastic nuts. Remove only the side that you need to access. Pull the carpet back away from the rear area. The taillamp, sidemarker and back-up lights can now be accessed.

To reassemble, attach the wire connector (A) to the plastic base making sure the lock tab (B) is over the lock (C). Install the bulb by putting the small tab (D) into the small notch in the lamp (E). Turn the bulb socket 1/4 turn clockwise to lock into place. When reinstalling the headlamp assembly into the headlamp mounting panel, make sure the tab is properly engaged in the panel slot.

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Loading Your Vehicle %I OCCUPANTS

FRT. CTR.

TIRE-LOADING INFORMATION

VEHICLE CAP. WT.

RR.

TOTAL

LBS.

KG

MAX. LOADING & GVWR SAME AS VEHICLE COLD TIRE CAPACITY WEIGHT

XXX PRESSURE

SPEED RTG

PSliKPa

TIRE SIZE

FRT. RR. SPA. IF TIRES ARE HOT, ADD 4PS1/28KPa SEE OWNER'S MANUAL FOR ADDITIONAL ,j;;f&ip

( INFORMATION

\]]!mlp

Two labels on your vehicle show how much weight it may properly carry. The Tire Loading Information label found on the rear edge of the driver's door tells you the proper size, speed rating and recommended inflation pressures for the tires on your vehicle. It also gives you important information about the number of people that can be in your vehicle and the total weight that you can carry. This weight is called the Vehicle Capacity Weight and includes the weight of all occupants, cargo, and all nonfactory-installed options.

Two taillamp bulbs are a tabbed assembly. Squeeze the release in and pull the assembly out. Pull the bulb straight out from the socket. To replace the assembly, insert the tabs into the slots and push in until it locks into place. To replace the third taillamp bulb and sidemarker bulb, turn the socket 1/4 turn and pull it out. Pull the bulb straight out from the socket. The backup bulb can be replaced by squeezing the lock on the socket, turning it 1/4 turn and pulling it out. Pull the bulb straight out. Reverse the above steps to reassemble the light and the trunk trim.

MFD BY GENERAL MOTORS CORP DATE GVWR GAWR FRT GAWR RR

THIS VEHICLE CONFORMS TO ALL APPLI- CABLE U.S. FEDERAL MOTOR VEHICLE SAFETY, BUMPER, AND THEFT PREVENTION STANDARDS IN EFFECT ON THE DATE OF MANUFACTURE SHOWN ABOVE.

The other label is the Certification label, found on the rear edge of the driver’s door. It tells you the gross weight capacity of your vehicle, called the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating). The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel and cargo. Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle, or the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for either the front or rear axle. And, if you do have a heavy load, you should spread it out. Don’t carry more than 176 pounds (80 kilograms) in your trunk.

I NOTICE: I Your warranty does not cover parts or

components that fail because of overloading.

If you put things inside your vehicle -- like suitcases, tools, packages, or anything else -- they will go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they’ll keep going.

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Tires We don't make tires. Your new vehicle comes with high quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. These tires are warranted by the tire manufacturers and their warranties are delivered with every new Buick. If your spare tire is a different brand than your road tires, you will have a tire warranty folder from each of these manufacturers.

Inflation - Tire Pressure The Tire-Loading Information label which is located on the rear edge of the driver’s door shows the correct inflation pressures for your tires, when they’re cold. “Cold” means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than a mile.

NOTICE: Don’t let anyone tell you that underinflation &r overinflation is all right. It’s not. If your tires don’t have enough air (underinflation) you can get: 0 Too much flexing

Too much heat 0 Tire overloading

Bad wear

0 Bad handling

Bad fuel economy.

If your tires have too much air (overinflation), you can get: 0 Unusual wear Bad handling Rough ride Needless damage from road hazards.

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When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Don’t forget your compact spare tire. It should be at 60 psi (420 Wa). How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. Simply looking at the tires will not tell you the pressure, especially if you have radial tires -- which may look properly inflated even if they’re underinflated. If your tires have valve caps, be sure to put them back on. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture. Tire Inspection and Rotation To make your tires last longer, have them inspected and rotated at the mileages recommended in the Maintenance Schedule. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.

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FRONT

Use this rotation pattern. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressure as shown on the Tire-Loading Information label. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” in the Index.

When It’s Time for New Tires

One way to tell when it’s time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 2/32 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining.

You need a new tire if

three or more places

You can see the indicators at around the tire. You can see cord or fabric showing through the tire’s rubber. The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged deep enough to show cord or fabric. The tire has a bump, bulge or split.

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The tire has a puncture, cut, or other damage that can’t be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage.

Buying New Tires To find out what kind and size of tires you need, look at the Tire-Loading Information label. The tires installed on your vehicle when it was new had a Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC Spec) number on each tire’s sidewall. When you get new tires, get ones with that same TPC Spec number. That way, your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give proper endurance, handling, speed rating, traction, ride and other things during normal service on your vehicle. If your tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC number will be followed by a “MS” (for mud and snow). If you ever replace your tires with those not having a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating and construction type (bias, bias-belted or radial) as your original tires.

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Uniform Tire Quality Grading The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration which grades tires by treadwear, traction and temperature performance. (This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.)

Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1 1/2) times as well on the government course as a tire

graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction - A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest are: A, B, ’ and C. They represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on braking (straight-ahead) traction tests and does not include cornering (turning) traction. Temperature - A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance

which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure. These grades are molded on the sidewalls of passenger car tires. While the tires available as standard or optional equipment on General Motors vehicles may vary with respect to these grades, all such tires meet General Motors performance standards and have been approved for use on General Motors vehicles. All passenger type (P Metric) tires must conform to Federal safety requirements in addition to these grades. Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance.

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In most cases, you will not need to have your wheels aligned again. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling one way or the other, the alignment may need to be reset. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your wheels may need to be rebalanced. Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked or badly rusted. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your Buick dealer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need. Each new wheel should have the same load carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset, and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces. If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts, or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts for your Buick model.

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I NOTICE:

The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometerlodometer calibration, headlight aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance, and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis.

Used Replacement Wheels

Tire Chains

NOTICE: If your Buick has P215/70R15 size tires, don’t use tire chains; they can damage your vehicle. If you have other tires, use tire chains only where legal and only when you must. Use only SAE Class “S” type chains that are the proper size for your tires. Install them on the front tires and tighten them as tightly as possible with the ends securely fastened. Drive slowly and follow the chain manufacturer’s instructions. If you can hear the chains contacting your vehicle, stop and retighten them. If the contact continues, slow down until it stops. Driving too fast with chains on will damage your vehicle.

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Appearance Care Remember, cleaning products can be hazardous. Some are toxic. Others can burst into flame if you strike a match or get them on a hot part of the vehicle. Some are dangerous if you breathe their fumes in a closed space. When you use anything from a container to clean your Buick, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s warnings and instructions. And always open your doors or windows when you’re cleaning the inside. Never use these to clean your vehicle: 0 Gasoline