2010 Buick Lucerne Owners Manual

gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher, but the vehicle's acceleration could be slightly reduced, and a slight audible knocking noise, commonly referred to as spark knock, might be heard. If the octane is less than 87, you might notice a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. Otherwise, you could damage the engine. If heavy knocking is heard when using gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher, the engine needs service.

Gasoline Specifications At a minimum, gasoline should meet ASTM specification D 4814 in the United States or CAN/CGSB‐3.5 or 3.511 in Canada. Some gasolines contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT). We recommend against the use of gasolines containing MMT. See Additives on page 6‑7 for additional information. California Fuel If the vehicle is certified to meet California Emissions Standards, it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. See the underhood emission control label. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, the vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance might be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp could turn on and the vehicle might fail a smog‐check test. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 4‑41 . If this occurs, return to your authorized dealer for diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs might not be covered by the vehicle warranty.

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Additives To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing the emission control system to work properly. In most cases, nothing should have to be added to the fuel. However, some gasolines contain only the minimum amount of additive required to meet U.S. Environmental Protection Agency regulations. To help keep fuel injectors and intake valves clean, or if the vehicle experiences problems due to dirty injectors or valves, look for gasoline that is advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. For customers who do not use TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline regularly, one bottle of GM Fuel System Treatment PLUS, added to the fuel tank at every engine oil change, can help clean deposits from fuel injectors and intake valves. GM Fuel System Treatment PLUS is the only gasoline additive recommended by General Motors. Also, your dealer has additives that will help correct and prevent most deposit‐related problems.

Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines might be available in your area. We recommend that you use these gasolines, if they comply with the specifications described earlier. However, E85 (85% ethanol) and other fuels containing more than 10% ethanol must not be used in vehicles that were not designed for those fuels. Notice: This vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in the fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under the vehicle warranty. Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions can contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT. We recommend against the use of such gasolines. Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system could be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp might turn on. If this occurs, return to your dealer for service.

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At a minimum, E85 should meet ASTM Specification D 5798. By definition, this means that fuel labeled E85
will have an ethanol content between 70% and 85%. Filling the fuel tank with fuel mixtures that do not meet ASTM specifications can affect driveability and could cause the malfunction indicator lamp to come on. To ensure quick starts in the wintertime, the E85 fuel must be formulated properly for your climate according to ASTM specification D 5798. If you have trouble starting on E85, it could be because the E85 fuel is not properly formulated for your climate. If this happens, switching to gasoline or adding gasoline to the fuel tank can improve starting. For good starting and heater efficiency below 0°C (32°F), the fuel mix in the fuel tank should contain no more than 70% ethanol. It is best not to alternate repeatedly between gasoline and E85. If you do switch fuels, it is recommended that you add as much fuel as possible — do not add less than 11 L (three gallons) when refueling. You should drive the vehicle immediately after refueling for at least 11 km (seven miles) to allow the vehicle to adapt to the change in ethanol concentration.

Fuel E85 (85% Ethanol) The 8th digit of the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) shows the code letter or number that identifies the vehicle's engine. The VIN is at the top left of the instrument panel. See Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) on page 6‑109. If the vehicle has the 3.9L V6 engine (VIN Code M), you can use either unleaded gasoline or ethanol fuel containing up to 85% ethanol (E85). See Fuel on page 6‑5 . In all other engines, use only the unleaded gasoline described under Gasoline Octane on page 6‑6 . Only vehicles that have the 3.9L V6 engine (VIN Code M) can use 85% ethanol fuel (E85). We encourage the use of E85 in vehicles that are designed to use it. The ethanol in E85 is a “renewable” fuel, meaning it is made from renewable sources such as corn and other crops. Many service stations will not have an 85% ethanol fuel (E85) pump available. The U.S. Department of Energy has an alternative fuels website (www.eere.energy.gov/afdc/infrastructure/locator.html) that can help you find E85 fuel. Those stations that do have E85 should have a label indicating ethanol content. Do not use the fuel if the ethanol content is greater than 85%.

6-8

E85 has less energy per gallon than gasoline, so you will need to refill the fuel tank more often when using E85 than when you are using gasoline. See Filling the Tank on page 6‑10. Notice: Some additives are not compatible with E85 fuel and can harm the vehicle's fuel system. Do not add anything to E85. Damage caused by additives would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Notice: This vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in the fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under the vehicle warranty.

Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel might be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. To check the fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you will be driving.

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Filling the Tank

{ WARNING:

Fuel vapor burns violently and a fuel fire can cause bad injuries. To help avoid injuries to you and others, read and follow all the instructions on the fuel pump island. Turn off the engine when refueling. Do not smoke near fuel or when refueling the vehicle. Do not use cellular phones. Keep sparks, flames, and smoking materials away from fuel. Do not leave the fuel pump unattended when refueling the vehicle. This is against the law in some places. Do not re-enter the vehicle while pumping fuel. Keep children away from the fuel pump; never let children pump fuel.

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The tethered fuel cap is located behind a hinged fuel door on the driver side of the vehicle. If the vehicle has E85 fuel capability, the fuel cap will be yellow and state that E85 or gasoline can be used. See Fuel E85 (85% Ethanol) on page 6‑8. To open the fuel door, push the rearward center edge in and release and it will open.

To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly to the left (counterclockwise). The fuel cap has a spring in it; if the cap is released too soon, it will spring back to the right. While refueling, hang the tethered fuel cap from the hook on the fuel door.

{ WARNING:

When replacing the fuel cap, turn it to the right (clockwise) until it clicks. Make sure the cap is fully installed. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 4‑41. The TIGHTEN GAS CAP message displays on the Driver Information Center (DIC) if the fuel cap is not properly installed.

Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. If you spill fuel and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. This spray can happen if the tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any hiss noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.

Be careful not to spill fuel. Do not top off or overfill the tank and wait a few seconds after you have finished pumping before removing the nozzle. Clean fuel from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 6‑104.

{ WARNING:

If a fire starts while you are refueling, do not remove the nozzle. Shut off the flow of fuel by shutting off the pump or by notifying the station attendant. Leave the area immediately.

Notice: If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit properly. This may cause the malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage the fuel tank and emissions system. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 4‑41.

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Filling a Portable Fuel Container

{ WARNING:

Never fill a portable fuel container while it is in the vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the fuel vapor. You can be badly burned and the vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others: . Dispense fuel only into approved containers. . Do not fill a container while it is inside a

vehicle, in a vehicle's trunk, pickup bed, or on any surface other than the ground.

. Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the inside

of the fill opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the filling is complete.

. Do not smoke while pumping fuel. . Do not use a cellular phone while

pumping fuel.

Checking Things Under the Hood

{ WARNING:

An electric fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

{ WARNING:

Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.

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Hood Release To open the hood:

1. Pull the hood release

handle inside the vehicle. It is located next to the parking brake pedal near the floor.

2. Then go to the front of the vehicle and pull the secondary hood release to the right. The hood latch is located under the hood, near the center, at the front edge of the grille.

3. Hold the latch to the right as you lift up on

the hood. Before closing the hood, be sure all the filler caps are on properly. Then just pull the hood down and close it firmly.

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Engine Compartment Overview When you open the hood on the 3.9L V6 engine, here is what you will see:

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A. Underhood Fuse Block on page 6‑110. B. Remote Positive (+) Battery Terminal. See Jump

Starting on page 6‑44.

C. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 6‑39 .

D. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank. See Cooling

System on page 6‑26.

E. Radiator Pressure Cap. See Cooling System on

page 6‑26 .

F. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir (Out of View).

See Power Steering Fluid on page 6‑38.

G. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”

under Engine Oil on page 6‑17.

H. Engine Oil Dipstick (Out of View). See “Checking

Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 6‑17. I. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick. See “Checking the Fluid Level” under Automatic Transmission Fluid on page 6‑23.

J. Brake Fluid Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid” under

Brakes on page 6‑40.

K. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter on page 6‑21.

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When you open the hood on the 4.6L V8 engine, here is what you will see:

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Engine Oil Checking Engine Oil It is a good idea to check the engine oil level at each fuel fill. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground. The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 6‑14 for the location of the engine oil dipstick.

1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If this is not done, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.

2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.

A. Underhood Fuse Block on page 6‑110. B. Remote Positive (+) Terminal. See Jump Starting

on page 6‑44 .

C. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 6‑39 .

D. Engine Coolant Surge Tank and Pressure Cap.

See Cooling System on page 6‑26.

E. Remote Negative (−) Terminal. See Jump Starting

on page 6‑44 .

F. Power Steering Fluid on page 6‑38. G. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”

under Engine Oil on page 6‑17.

H. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”

under Engine Oil on page 6‑17.

I. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake

Fluid” under Brakes on page 6‑40.

J. Automatic Transmission Fluid Cap and Dipstick

(Out of View). See Automatic Transmission Fluid on page 6‑23 .

K. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter on page 6‑21.

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When to Add Engine Oil

3.9L V6 Engine

Notice: Do not add too much oil. If the engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, the engine could be damaged.

See Engine Compartment Overview on page 6‑14
for the location of the engine oil fill cap.

Add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range in the cross-hatched area. Push the dipstick all the way back in when through.

4.6L V8 Engine

If the oil is below the cross-hatched area at the tip of the dipstick, add at least one quart/liter of the recommended oil. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Specifications on page 6‑118.

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What Kind of Engine Oil to Use Look for three things:

. GM6094M

Use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM6094M. . SAE 5W-30

SAE 5W-30 is best for the vehicle. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50.

. American Petroleum Institute (API) starburst

symbol

Oils meeting these requirements should have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API).

Notice: Use only engine oil identified as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and showing the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by the vehicle warranty. Cold Temperature Operation If in an area of extreme cold, where the temperature falls below −20°F (−29°C), use either an SAE 5W-30
synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 engine oil. Both provide easier cold starting for the engine at extremely low temperatures. Always use an oil that meets the required specification, GM6094M. See “What Kind of Engine Oil to Use” for more information. Engine Oil Additives / Engine Oil Flushes Do not add anything to the oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol that meet GM Standard GM6094M are all that is needed for good performance and engine protection. Engine oil system flushes are not recommended and could cause engine damage not covered by the vehicle warranty.

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How to Reset the Engine Oil Life System The Engine Oil Life System calculates when to change the engine oil and filter based on vehicle use. Whenever the oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where the oil is changed prior to a CHANGE ENGINE OIL SOON message being turned on, reset the system. Always reset the engine oil life to 100% after every oil change. It will not reset itself. To reset the Engine Oil Life System:

1. Display the OIL LIFE REMAINING on the DIC. 2. Press and hold the SET/RESET button on the DIC for more than five seconds. The oil life will change to 100%.

If the CHANGE ENGINE OIL SOON message comes back on when the vehicle is started, the Engine Oil Life System has not reset. Repeat the procedure.

Engine Oil Life System When to Change Engine Oil This vehicle has a computer system that indicates when to change the engine oil and filter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change is indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, the system must be reset every time the oil is changed. When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it indicates that an oil change is necessary. A CHANGE ENGINE OIL SOON message comes on. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 4‑55 . Change the oil as soon as possible within the next 600 miles (1 000 km). It is possible that, if driving under the best conditions, the oil life system might not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, the engine oil and filter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. Your dealer has trained service people who will perform this work using genuine parts and reset the system. It is also important to check the oil regularly and keep it at the proper level. If the system is ever reset accidentally, the oil must be changed at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since the last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed.

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What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that can be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer's warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the filter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil.

Engine Air Cleaner/Filter See Engine Compartment Overview on page 6‑14 for the location of the engine air cleaner/filter. When to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/ Filter Inspect the air cleaner/filter at the Maintenance II intervals and replace it at the first oil change after each 50,000 mile (80 000 km) interval. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 7‑3 for more information. If you are driving in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect the filter at each engine oil change. How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/ Filter To inspect the air cleaner/filter, remove the filter from the vehicle and lightly shake the filter to release loose dust and dirt. If the filter remains caked with dirt, a new filter is required.

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To inspect or replace the filter:

To reinstall the cover:

1. Align the two hinges located on the inboard side of

the cover.

2. Push the cover slightly down and towards the

engine to engage the tabs in the hinges and align the two screws.

3. Tighten the two screws on the top of the engine air

cleaner/filter cover.

{ WARNING:

Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps to stop flames if the engine backfires. Use caution when working on the engine and do not drive with the air cleaner/filter off.

Notice: If the air cleaner/filter is off, dirt can easily get into the engine, which could damage it. Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you are driving.

1. Remove the two screws on the top of the engine

air cleaner/filter cover.

2. Lift up the outboard side of the cover at an angle while pulling toward you. This is necessary due to the two hinges located on the inboard side of the cover.

3. Remove the engine air cleaner/filter and any loose

debris that may be found in the air cleaner base. Inspect or replace the air filter element.

4.

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Automatic Transmission Fluid When to Check and Change Automatic Transmission Fluid A good time to check the automatic transmission fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change the fluid and filter at the intervals listed in Scheduled Maintenance on page 7‑3 and be sure to use the transmission fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 7‑9. How to Check Automatic Transmission Fluid (3.9L Engine) Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealer service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick. Notice: Too much or too little fluid can damage the transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Too little fluid could cause the transmission to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if checking the transmission fluid.

Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission fluid level if you have been driving:

. When outside temperatures are above

90°F (32°C).

. At high speed for quite a while.

In heavy traffic — especially in hot weather.

. While pulling a trailer.

To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), you may have to drive longer. Checking the Fluid Level Prepare the vehicle as follows:

1. Park the vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine

running.

2. With the parking brake applied, place the shift

lever in P (Park).

3. With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in P (Park).

4. Let the engine run at idle for three to five minutes.

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Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:

1. For the 3.9L V6 engine, locate the transmission fluid dipstick top which is a round loop with this symbol.

See Engine Compartment Overview on page 6‑14
for more information on location.

2. Pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or

paper towel.

3. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds,

and then pull it back out again.

3.9L V6 Engine

4. Check both sides of the dipstick and read the

lower level. The fluid level must be in the cross-hatched area. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the dipstick back in all the way.

5.

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How to Add Automatic Transmission Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transmission fluid to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 7‑9. If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level into the cross-hatched area on the dipstick.

1. Pull out the dipstick. 2. Using a long-neck funnel, add enough fluid at the

dipstick hole to bring it to the proper level. It does not take much fluid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Do not overfill.

Notice: Use of the incorrect automatic transmission fluid may damage the vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by the vehicle's warranty. Always use the automatic transmission fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 7‑9.

3. After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as described under “How to Check Automatic Transmission Fluid” earlier in this section.

4. When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the

dipstick back in all the way.

How to Check Automatic Transmission Fluid (4.6L Engine) For the 4.6L V8 engine, it is not necessary to check the transmission fluid level. A transmission fluid leak is the only reason for fluid loss. If a leak occurs, take the vehicle to your dealer service department and have it repaired as soon as possible.

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Cooling System The cooling system allows the engine to maintain the correct working temperature.

3.9L Engine

A. Coolant Recovery Tank B. Radiator Pressure Cap C. Electric Engine Cooling Fans

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4.6L Engine

A. Coolant Surge Tank with Pressure Cap B. Electric Engine Cooling Fans

{ WARNING:

An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can cause injury. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

{ WARNING:

Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.

Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® can cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant could require changing sooner, at 50 000 km (30,000 miles) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in the vehicle. Engine Coolant (4.6L Engine) The cooling system in the vehicle is filled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in the vehicle for five years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first. The following explains the cooling system and how to check and add coolant when it is low. If there is a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating on page 6‑35.

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What to Use

{ WARNING:

Adding only plain water to the cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. The vehicle's coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, the engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. The engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.

Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant. If using this mixture, nothing else needs to be added. This mixture:

. Gives freezing protection down to −34°F (−37°C),

outside temperature.

. Gives boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C),

engine temperature.

. Protects against rust and corrosion. . Will not damage aluminum parts. . Helps keep the proper engine temperature.

Notice: If an improper coolant mixture is used, the engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core, and other parts. Notice: If extra inhibitors and/or additives are used in the vehicle's cooling system, the vehicle could be damaged. Use only the proper mixture of the engine coolant listed in this manual for the cooling system. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 7‑9 for more information.

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Checking Coolant The vehicle must be on a level surface when checking the coolant level. Check to see if coolant is visible in the coolant recovery tank. If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down. If coolant is visible but the coolant level is not at or above the FULL COLD mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant at the coolant recovery tank, but be sure the cooling system is cool before this is done. See Engine Coolant (4.6L Engine) on page 6‑27 or Engine Coolant (3.9L Engine) on page 6‑31 for more information.

If no coolant is visible in the surge tank, add coolant as follows: How to Add Coolant to the Surge Tank

{ WARNING:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.

Notice: This vehicle has a specific coolant fill procedure. Failure to follow this procedure could cause the engine to overheat and be severely damaged.

{ WARNING:

An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can cause injury. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

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{ WARNING:

Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the surge tank pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the surge tank pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and surge tank pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.

You can remove the coolant surge tank pressure cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot.

1. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise.

If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.

2. Then keep turning the cap and remove it.

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3. Fill the coolant surge tank with the proper mixture to the FULL COLD mark on the side of the coolant surge tank.

4. With the coolant surge tank cap off, start the

engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fans. By this time, the coolant level inside the coolant surge tank may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper mixture to the coolant surge tank until the level reaches the FULL COLD mark on the side of the coolant surge tank.

5. Then replace the cap. Be sure the cap is

hand‐tight and fully seated.

If coolant is needed, add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture at the coolant recovery tank. Notice: If the pressure cap is not tightly installed, coolant loss and possible engine damage may occur. Be sure the cap is properly and tightly secured. Engine Coolant (3.9L Engine) The cooling system in the vehicle is filled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in the vehicle for five years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first. The following explains the cooling system and how to check and add coolant when it is low. If there is a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating on page 6‑35.

6-31

What to Use

{ WARNING:

Adding only plain water to the cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. The vehicle's coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, the engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. The engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.

Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL coolant. If using this mixture, nothing else needs to be added. This mixture:

. Gives freezing protection down to −34°F (−37°C),

outside temperature.

. Gives boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C),

engine temperature.

. Protects against rust and corrosion. . Will not damage aluminum parts. . Helps keep the proper engine temperature.

Notice: If an improper coolant mixture is used, the engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core, and other parts. Notice: If extra inhibitors and/or additives are used in the vehicle's cooling system, the vehicle could be damaged. Use only the proper mixture of the engine coolant listed in this manual for the cooling system. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 7‑9 for more information.

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Checking Coolant The vehicle must be on a level surface when checking the coolant level. The coolant level should be at or above the FULL COLD mark when the engine is cold. The coolant level should be above the FULL COLD mark under normal operating conditions. If it is not, you may have a leak in the cooling system. Check to see if coolant is visible in the coolant recovery tank. If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down. If coolant is visible but the coolant level is not at or above the FULL COLD mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL coolant at the coolant recovery tank, but be sure the cooling system is cool before this is done. See Engine Coolant for more information.

How to Add Coolant to the Recovery Tank

{ WARNING:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.

Notice: This vehicle has a specific coolant fill procedure. Failure to follow this procedure could cause the engine to overheat and be severely damaged. If coolant is needed, add the proper DEX-COOL coolant mixture at the coolant recovery tank.

6-33

If coolant is needed, add the proper mixture directly to the radiator, but be sure the cooling system is cool before this is done.

1. You can remove

the pressure cap when the cooling system, including the pressure cap and upper radiator hose is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise.

2.

If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means that there is still some pressure left. Keep turning the pressure cap and remove it.

How to Add Coolant to the Radiator

{ WARNING:

An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can cause injury. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

{ WARNING:

Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the surge tank pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the surge tank pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and surge tank pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.

6-34

3. Fill the cooling system with the proper DEX-COOL

coolant mixture, up to the base of the filler neck. See Engine Coolant (4.6L Engine) on page 6‑27
or Engine Coolant (3.9L Engine) on page 6‑31. 4. Then fill the coolant recovery tank to the COLD

5.

FILL line. Install the coolant recovery tank cap and the pressure cap. After a day or two of driving, when the engine is cold, check the coolant level in the recovery tank. If it is low, refill it to the COLD FILL line.

If the coolant in the recovery tank is constantly low, you should have a dealer service department inspect the vehicle for leaks. Notice: If the pressure cap is not tightly installed, coolant loss and possible engine damage may occur. Be sure the cap is properly and tightly secured.

Engine Overheating The vehicle has several indicators to warn of engine overheating. You will find a warning light about a hot engine as well as an engine coolant temperature gauge on the instrument panel cluster. You may decide not to lift the hood when this warning appears, but instead get service help right away. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 8‑8. If you do decide to lift the hood , make sure the vehicle is parked on a level surface. Then check to see if the engine cooling fans are running. If the engine is overheating, both fans should be running. If they are not, do not continue to run the engine and have the vehicle serviced. Notice: Engine damage from running the engine without coolant is not covered by the warranty. Notice: If the engine catches fire while driving with no coolant, the vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 6‑37 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency.

6-35

If Steam Is Coming From The Engine Compartment

{ WARNING:

Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when the vehicles engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop the engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 6‑37 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency.

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If No Steam Is Coming From The Engine Compartment If an engine overheat warning is displayed but no steam can be seen or heard, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when the vehicle:

. Climbs a long hill on a hot day. . Stops after high-speed driving. Idles for long periods in traffic. Tows a trailer.

If the overheat warning is displayed with no sign of steam:

1. Turn the air conditioning off. 2. Turn the heater on to the highest temperature and

3.

to the highest fan speed. Open the windows as necessary. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in N (Neutral) while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, shift to P (Park) or N (Neutral) and let the engine idle.

If the temperature overheat gauge is no longer in the overheat zone or an overheat warning no longer displays, the vehicle can be driven. Continue to drive the vehicle slow for about 10 minutes. Keep a safe vehicle distance from the car in front of you. If the warning does not come back on, continue to drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park the vehicle right away. If there is no sign of steam, idle the engine for three minutes while parked. If the warning is still displayed, turn off the engine until it cools down. Also, see “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” next in this section.

Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode If an overheated engine condition exists and the message ENGINE OVERHEATED STOP ENGINE is displayed, an overheat protection mode which alternates firing groups of cylinders helps prevent engine damage. In this mode, you will notice a loss in power and engine performance. This operating mode allows the vehicle to be driven to a safe place in an emergency. Driving extended miles (km) and/or towing a trailer in the overheat protection mode should be avoided. Notice: After driving in the overheated engine protection operating mode, to avoid engine damage, allow the engine to cool before attempting any repair. The engine oil will be severely degraded. Repair the cause of coolant loss, change the oil and reset the oil life system. See Engine Oil on page 6‑17.

6-37

Power Steering Fluid

See Engine Compartment Overview on page 6‑14
for information on the location of the power steering fluid reservoir.

When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.

How to Check Power Steering Fluid To check the power steering fluid:

1. Turn the key off and let the engine compartment

cool down.

2. Wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean. 3. Unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a

clean rag.

4. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. 5. Remove the cap again and look at the fluid level

on the dipstick.

The level should be at the FULL COLD mark. If necessary, add only enough fluid to bring the level up to the mark. What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 7‑9 . Always use the proper fluid. Notice: Use of the incorrect fluid may damage the vehicle and the damages may not be covered by the vehicle's warranty. Always use the correct fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 7‑9 .

6-38

Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When the vehicle needs windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer's instructions before use. If the vehicle will be operating in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing. Adding Washer Fluid

Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer fluid until the tank is full. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 6‑14 for reservoir location.

Notice:

. When using concentrated washer fluid,

follow the manufacturer's instructions for adding water.

. Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer

fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage the washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer fluid. Fill the washer fluid tank only three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for fluid expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.

. Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in the windshield washer. It can damage the vehicle's windshield washer system and paint.

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Brakes Brake Fluid

The brake master cylinder reservoir is filled with DOT 3 brake fluid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 6‑14
for the location of the reservoir.

There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down:

The brake fluid level goes down because of normal brake lining wear. When new linings are installed, the fluid level goes back up.

. A fluid leak in the brake hydraulic system can also

cause a low fluid level. Have the brake hydraulic system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later the brakes will not work well.

6-40

Do not top off the brake fluid. Adding fluid does not correct a leak. If fluid is added when the linings are worn, there will be too much fluid when new brake linings are installed. Add or remove brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

{ WARNING:

If too much brake fluid is added, it can spill on the engine and burn, if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and the vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

When the brake fluid falls to a low level, the brake warning light comes on. See Brake System Warning Light on page 4‑36. What to Add Use only new DOT 3 brake fluid from a sealed container. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 7‑9 . Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This helps keep dirt from entering the reservoir.

{ WARNING:

With the wrong kind of fluid in the brake hydraulic system, the brakes might not work well. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.

Notice:

. Using the wrong fluid can badly damage

brake hydraulic system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in the brake hydraulic system can damage brake hydraulic system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. If brake fluid is spilled on the vehicle's painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on the vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 6‑104.

Brake Wear This vehicle has disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound can come and go or be heard all the time the vehicle is moving, except when applying the brake pedal firmly.

{ WARNING:

The brake wear warning sound means that soon the brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When the brake wear warning sound is heard, have the vehicle serviced.

Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair. Some driving conditions or climates can cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with the brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to torque specifications in Capacities and Specifications on page 6‑118.

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Battery Refer to the replacement number on the original battery label when a new battery is needed.

{ DANGER:

Battery posts, terminals, and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling.

The battery is under the rear seat cushion. To access the battery, see “Removing the Rear Seat Cushion” under Rear Underseat Fuse Block on page 6‑113. Access to the battery is not necessary to jump start the vehicle. See Jump Starting on page 6‑44.

Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign that brake service might be required. Brake Adjustment Every time the brakes are applied, with or without the vehicle moving, the brakes adjust for wear. Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. The vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality brake parts. When parts of the braking system are replaced — for example, when the brake linings wear down and new ones are installed — be sure to get new approved replacement parts. If this is not done, the brakes might not work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for the vehicle, the balance between the front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance expected can change in many other ways if the wrong replacement brake parts are installed.

6-42

{ WARNING:

A battery that is not properly vented can let sulfuric acid fumes into the area under the rear seat cushion. These fumes can damage the rear seat safety belt systems. You might not be able to see this damage and the safety belts might not provide the protection needed in a crash. If a replacement battery is ever needed, it must be vented in the same manner as the original battery. Always make sure that the vent hose is properly reattached before reinstalling the seat cushion.

To be sure the vent hose (A) is properly attached, the vent hose connectors (B) must be securely reattached to the vent outlets (C) on each side of the battery and the vent assembly grommet (D) must be secured to the floor pan (E).

6-43

Jump Starting If the vehicle's battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely.

{ WARNING:

Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:

They contain acid that can burn you. They contain gas that can explode or ignite. They contain enough electricity to burn you. If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.

Vehicle Storage

{ WARNING:

Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 6‑44 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.

Infrequent Usage: Remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery to keep the battery from running down. Extended Storage: Remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery or use a battery trickle charger. See Theft-Deterrent Feature on page 4‑104 for the audio system.

6-44

Notice: Ignoring these steps could result in costly damage to the vehicle that would not be covered by the warranty. Trying to start the vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage the vehicle.

1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt

battery with a negative ground system.

Notice: If the other vehicle's system is not a 12-volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle.

2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper

cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transmission in P (Park) or a manual transmission in Neutral before setting the parking brake.

Notice: If you leave the radio or other accessories on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by the warranty. Always turn off the radio and other accessories when jump starting the vehicle.

3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug

unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or the accessory power outlet(s). Turn off the radio and all lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save the radio!

4. Open the hood on the other vehicle and locate the positive (+) and negative (−) terminal locations on that vehicle. You will not see the battery of your vehicle under the hood. It is located under the rear passenger's seat. You will not need to access the battery for jump starting. The remote positive (+) terminal is for that purpose. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 6‑14 for location.

6-45

{ WARNING:

Using an open flame near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you do not, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.

Access the remote positive (+) terminal by removing the cover.

{ WARNING:

An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

6-46

{ WARNING:

Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.

5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or

missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks.

6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the

positive (+) terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.

9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable at least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less.

10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run

the engine for a while.

11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery.

If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service.

6-47

Notice: If the jumper cables are connected or removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Always connect and remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal.

To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following:

1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the

vehicle that had the dead battery.

2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other

vehicle.

5. Return the positive (+) remote terminal cover to its

original position.

Jumper Cable Removal

A. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and Remote

Negative (−) Terminals

C. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or Remote

Negative (−) Terminal

6-48

Headlamp Aiming The vehicle has a visual optical headlamp aiming system. The aim of the headlamps have been preset at the factory and should need no further adjustment. However, if the vehicle is damaged in a crash, the aim of the headlamps may be affected and adjustment may be necessary. If oncoming vehicles flash their high beams at you, this may mean the vertical aim of your headlamps needs to be adjusted. It is recommended that the vehicle is taken to your dealer for service if the headlamps need to be adjusted. It is possible however, to re-aim the headlamps as described.

The vehicle should:

. Be placed so the headlamps are 25 ft. (7.6 m) from

a light colored wall.

. Have all four tires on a level surface which is level

all the way to the wall.

. Be placed so it is perpendicular to the wall. . Not have any snow, ice or mud on it. . Be fully assembled and all other work stopped

while headlamp aiming is being performed.

. Be normally loaded with a full tank of fuel and one person or 160 lbs (75 kg) sitting on the driver seat.

. Have all tires properly inflated. . Have the spare tire is in its proper location in the

vehicle.

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Headlamp aiming is done with the vehicle's low-beam headlamps. The high-beam headlamps will be correctly aimed if the low-beam headlamps are aimed properly. To adjust the vertical aim:

1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on page 6‑13

for more information.

4. At a wall, measure from the ground upward (A) to

the recorded distance from Step 3 and mark it.

5. Draw or tape a horizontal line (B) on the wall the

width of the vehicle at the height of the mark in Step 4.

Notice: Do not cover a headlamp to improve beam cut-off when aiming. Covering a headlamp may cause excessive heat build-up which may cause damage to the headlamp.

6. Turn on the low-beam headlamps and place a piece of cardboard or equivalent in front of the headlamp not being adjusted. Do not place directly on the headlamp. This allows only the beam of light from the headlamp being adjusted to be seen on the flat surface.

2. Locate the aim dot on the lens of the low‐beam

headlamp.

3. Record the distance from the ground to the aim dot

on the low‐beam headlamp.

6-50

9. Make sure that the light from the headlamp is

positioned at the bottom edge of the horizontal tape line. The lamp on the left (A) shows the correct headlamp aim. The lamp on the right (B) shows the incorrect headlamp aim.

10. Repeat Steps 7 through 9 for the opposite

headlamp.

7. Locate the vertical headlamp aiming screws, which are under the hood near each headlamp assembly. The adjustment screw can be turned with a 6 mm male hex.

8. Turn the vertical aiming screw until the headlamp beam is aimed to the horizontal tape line. Turn it clockwise or counterclockwise to raise or lower the angle of the beam.

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Taillamps, Turn Signal, Stoplamps and Sidemarker Lamps

A. Sidemarker Lamp B. Stoplamp/Taillamp/Turn Signal Lamp

Bulb Replacement For the proper type of replacement bulbs, see Replacement Bulbs on page 6‑55. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer. Halogen Bulbs

{ WARNING:

Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.

6-52

To replace one of these bulbs:

1. Open the trunk. See Trunk on page 3‑12. 2. Remove the convenience net. 3. Remove the plastic wing nuts retaining the

trunk trim.

4. Pull back the trunk trim.

5. Remove the three hex nuts holding the taillamp

assembly in place.

6. Pull the taillamp assembly straight out.

7. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and pull it

straight out to remove it.

8. Pull the old bulb straight out of the socket. 9. Push the new bulb straight in until it clicks.

10. Push the bulb socket in and turn it clockwise to

secure it in the taillamp assembly.

11. Push the taillamp assembly straight in to its

original location. When reinstalling the taillamp assembly, make sure the plastic pin on the taillamp assembly lines up and is inserted correctly into the opening of the vehicle.

12. Reinstall the three hex nuts holding the taillamp

assembly in place.

13. Put the trunk trim back into place. 14. Reinstall the plastic wing nuts that retain the

trunk trim.

15. Put the convenience net back in its original

location.

6-53

Taillamps and Back-Up Lamps

A. Taillamp B. Back-up Lamp

To replace an auxiliary taillamp or back-up lamp bulb:

1. Open the trunk. See Trunk on page 3‑12.

6-54

2. Remove the three fasteners from the trunk trim. 3. Pull back the trunk trim to access the bulbs. 4. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise to

remove it.

5. Pull the bulb straight out. 6. Push the bulb straight in until it clicks. 7. Push the bulb socket in and turn it clockwise to

secure it.

8. Put the trunk trim and three fasteners back into

place.

Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected for wear or cracking. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 7‑3. It is a good idea to clean or replace the wiper blade assembly on a regular basis or when worn. For proper windshield wiper blade length and type, see Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 7‑11. To replace the wiper blade assembly:

1. Turn the ignition to ACC/ACCESSORY with the

engine off.

2. Pull the windshield wiper assembly away from the

windshield.

License Plate Lamp To replace one of these bulbs: 1. Remove the license plate. 2. Reach up through the opening above the license

plate to access the two license plate lamps. 3. Turn the socket counterclockwise to remove. 4. Grasp the bulb in the socket and pull straight out. 5. Push the bulb straight into the socket until it clicks

to secure it.

6. Push the socket in and turn it clockwise to

secure it.

7. Reinstall the license plate in its original location. Replacement Bulbs

Exterior Lamps

Bulb Number

Back-up Lamp Sidemarker, License Plate Lamp, and Auxiliary Taillamp Stoplamp, Taillamp, and Turn Signal Lamp

921

194

3057K

For replacement bulbs not listed here, contact your dealer.

6-55

3. Squeeze the tabs on each side of the wiper blade

4. Replace the blade assembly with a new one.

assembly and slide the assembly off the end of the wiper arm.

Allowing the wiper blade arm to touch the windshield when no wiper blade is installed could damage the windshield. Any damage that occurs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not allow the wiper blade arm to touch the windshield.

5. Repeat the steps for the other wiper.

6-56

Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your vehicle Warranty booklet for details. For additional information refer to the tire manufacturer.

{ WARNING:

Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous. . Overloading your vehicle's tires can cause overheating as a result of too much flexing. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See Loading the Vehicle on page 5‑19.

(Continued)

WARNING: (Continued)

. Underinflated tires pose the same danger

as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your vehicle's tires are cold. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 6‑65.

. Overinflated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured, or broken by a sudden impact — such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure.

. Worn, old tires can cause accidents.

If the tire's tread is badly worn, or if your vehicle's tires have been damaged, replace them.

6-57

Tire Sidewall Labeling Useful information about a tire is molded into its sidewall. The examples below show a typical passenger vehicle tire and a compact spare tire sidewall.

Passenger (P‐Metric) Tire Example

6-58

(A) Tire Size: The tire size is a combination of letters and numbers used to define a particular tire's width, height, aspect ratio, construction type, and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail. (B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM's specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM's TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines. (C) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards. (D) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT (Department of Transportation) code is the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture.

(E) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (F) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction, and temperature resistance. For more information see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 6‑76. (G) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load.

Compact Spare Tire Example

(A) Temporary Use Only: The compact spare tire or temporary use tire has a tread life of approximately 3,000 miles (5 000 km) and should not be driven at speeds over 65 mph (105 km/h). The compact spare tire is for emergency use when a regular road tire has lost air and gone flat. If your vehicle has a compact spare tire, see Compact Spare Tire on page 6‑100 and If a Tire Goes Flat on page 6‑81.

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(B) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (C) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following the DOT (Department of Transportation) code is the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (D) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load.

(E) Tire Inflation: The temporary use tire or compact spare tire should be inflated to 60 psi (420 kPa). For more information on tire pressure and inflation see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 6‑65. (F) Tire Size: A combination of letters and numbers define a tire's width, height, aspect ratio, construction type, and service description. The letter T as the first character in the tire size means the tire is for temporary use only. (G) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM's specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM's TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines.

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Tire Size The following illustration shows an example of a typical passenger vehicle tire size.

(A) Passenger (P‐Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter P as the first character in the tire size means a passenger vehicle tire engineered to standards set by the U.S. Tire and Rim Association. (B) Tire Width: The three‐digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall.

(C) Aspect Ratio: A two‐digit number that indicates the tire height‐to‐width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is 60, as shown in item C of the illustration, it would mean that the tire's sidewall is 60 percent as high as it is wide. (D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter R means radial ply construction; the letter D means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter B means belted‐bias ply construction. (E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches. (F) Service Description: These characters represent the load index and speed rating of the tire. The load index represents the load carry capacity a tire is certified to carry. The speed rating is the maximum speed a tire is certified to carry a load.

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Tire Terminology and Definitions Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa). Accessory Weight: This means the combined weight of optional accessories. Some examples of optional accessories are, automatic transmission, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air conditioning. Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire's height to its width. Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials. Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim. Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the plies are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.

Cold Tire Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up heat from driving. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 6‑65. Curb Weight: The weight of a motor vehicle with standard and optional equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil, and coolant, but without passengers and cargo. DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identification Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand, and date of production. GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. See Loading the Vehicle on page 5‑19. GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front axle. See Loading the Vehicle on page 5‑19.

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GAWR RR: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle. See Loading the Vehicle on page 5‑19. Intended Outboard Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire, that must always face outward when mounted on a vehicle. Kilopascal (kPa): The metric unit for air pressure. Light Truck (LT‐Metric) Tire: A tire used on light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles. Load Index: An assigned number ranging from 1 to 279 that corresponds to the load carrying capacity of a tire. Maximum Inflation Pressure: The maximum air pressure to which a cold tire can be inflated. The maximum air pressure is molded onto the sidewall. Maximum Load Rating: The load rating for a tire at the maximum permissible inflation pressure for that tire.

Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight: The sum of curb weight, accessory weight, vehicle capacity weight, and production options weight. Normal Occupant Weight: The number of occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg). See Loading the Vehicle on page 5‑19. Occupant Distribution: Designated seating positions. Outward Facing Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that faces outward when mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears white lettering, or bears manufacturer, brand, and/ or model name molding that is higher or deeper than the same moldings on the other sidewall of the tire. Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: A tire used on passenger cars and some light duty trucks and multipurpose vehicles.

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Recommended Inflation Pressure: Vehicle manufacturer's recommended tire inflation pressure as shown on the tire placard. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 6‑65 and Loading the Vehicle on page 5‑19. Radial Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. Rim: A metal support for a tire and upon which the tire beads are seated. Sidewall: The portion of a tire between the tread and the bead. Speed Rating: An alphanumeric code assigned to a tire indicating the maximum speed at which a tire can operate. Traction: The friction between the tire and the road surface. The amount of grip provided. Tread: The portion of a tire that comes into contact with the road. Treadwear Indicators: Narrow bands, sometimes called wear bars, that show across the tread of a tire when only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) of tread remains. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 6‑73.

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UTQGS (Uniform Tire Quality Grading Standards): A tire information system that provides consumers with ratings for a tire's traction, temperature, and treadwear. Ratings are determined by tire manufacturers using government testing procedures. The ratings are molded into the sidewall of the tire. See Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 6‑76. Vehicle Capacity Weight: The number of designated seating positions multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg) plus the rated cargo load. See Loading the Vehicle on page 5‑19. Vehicle Maximum Load on the Tire: Load on an individual tire due to curb weight, accessory weight, occupant weight, and cargo weight. Vehicle Placard: A label permanently attached to a vehicle showing the vehicle's capacity weight and the original equipment tire size and recommended inflation pressure. See “Tire and Loading Information Label” under Loading the Vehicle on page 5‑19.

Inflation - Tire Pressure Tires need the correct amount of air pressure to operate effectively. Notice: Do not let anyone tell you that under‐inflation or over‐inflation is all right. It is not. If your tires do not have enough air (under‐inflation), you can get the following:

. Too much flexing . Too much heat . Tire overloading . Premature or irregular wear . Poor handling . Reduced fuel economy

If your tires have too much air (over‐inflation), you can get the following:

. Unusual wear . Poor handling . Rough ride . Needless damage from road hazards

A vehicle specific Tire and Loading Information label is attached to your vehicle. This label shows your vehicle's original equipment tires and the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they are cold. The recommended cold tire inflation pressure, shown on the label, is the minimum amount of air pressure needed to support your vehicle's maximum load carrying capacity. For additional information regarding how much weight your vehicle can carry, and an example of the Tire and Loading Information label, see Loading the Vehicle on page 5‑19. How you load your vehicle affects vehicle handling and ride comfort. Never load your vehicle with more weight than it was designed to carry. When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Do not forget to check the compact spare tire, it should be at 60 psi (420 kPa). For additional information regarding the compact spare tire, see Compact Spare Tire on page 6‑100.

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How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gauge to check tire pressure. You cannot tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they are under‐inflated. Check the tire's inflation pressure when the tires are cold. Cold means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km). Remove the valve cap from the tire valve stem. Press the tire gauge firmly onto the valve to get a pressure measurement. If the cold tire inflation pressure matches the recommended pressure on the Tire and Loading Information label, no further adjustment is necessary. If the inflation pressure is low, add air until you reach the recommended amount. If you overfill the tire, release air by pushing on the metal stem in the center of the tire valve. Re‐check the tire pressure with the tire gauge. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.

Tire Pressure Monitor System The Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) uses radio and sensor technology to check tire pressure levels. The TPMS sensors monitor the air pressure in your vehicle's tires and transmit tire pressure readings to a receiver located in the vehicle. Each tire, including the spare (if provided), should be checked monthly when cold and inflated to the inflation pressure recommended by the vehicle manufacturer on the vehicle placard or tire inflation pressure label. (If your vehicle has tires of a different size than the size indicated on the vehicle placard or tire inflation pressure label, you should determine the proper tire inflation pressure for those tires.) As an added safety feature, your vehicle has been equipped with a tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS) that illuminates a low tire pressure telltale when one or more of your tires is significantly under‐inflated. Accordingly, when the low tire pressure telltale illuminates, you should stop and check your tires as soon as possible, and inflate them to the proper pressure. Driving on a significantly under‐inflated tire causes the tire to overheat and can lead to tire failure. Under‐inflation also reduces fuel efficiency and tire tread life, and may affect the vehicle's handling and stopping ability.

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Please note that the TPMS is not a substitute for proper tire maintenance, and it is the driver's responsibility to maintain correct tire pressure, even if under‐inflation has not reached the level to trigger illumination of the TPMS low tire pressure telltale. Your vehicle has also been equipped with a TPMS malfunction indicator to indicate when the system is not operating properly. The TPMS malfunction indicator is combined with the low tire pressure telltale. When the system detects a malfunction, the telltale will flash for approximately one minute and then remain continuously illuminated. This sequence will continue upon subsequent vehicle start‐ups as long as the malfunction exists. When the malfunction indicator is illuminated, the system may not be able to detect or signal low tire pressure as intended. TPMS malfunctions may occur for a variety of reasons, including the installation of replacement or alternate tires or wheels on the vehicle that prevent the TPMS from functioning properly. Always check the TPMS malfunction telltale after replacing one or more tires or wheels on your vehicle to ensure that the replacement or alternate tires and wheels allow the TPMS to continue to function properly. See Tire Pressure Monitor Operation on page 6‑67 for additional information.

Federal Communications Commission (FCC) and Industry Canada See Radio Frequency Statement on page 8‑20 for information regarding Part 15 of the Federal Communications Commission (FCC) Rules and RSS-210/211 of Industry Canada. Tire Pressure Monitor Operation This vehicle may have a Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS). The TPMS is designed to warn the driver when a low tire pressure condition exists. TPMS sensors are mounted onto each tire and wheel assembly, excluding the spare tire and wheel assembly. The TPMS sensors monitor the air pressure in the vehicle's tires and transmits the tire pressure readings to a receiver located in the vehicle.

When a low tire pressure condition is detected, the TPMS illuminates the low tire pressure warning light located on the instrument panel cluster.

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If the warning light comes on, stop as soon as possible and inflate the tires to the recommended pressure shown on the tire loading information label. See