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light to see the same thing at night as a 20-year-old.


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Hydroplaning Hydroplaning is dangerous. Water can build up under your vehicle’s tires so they actually ride on the water. This can happen if the road is wet enough and you are going fast enough. When your vehicle is hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road. There is no hard and fast rule about hydroplaning. The best advice is to slow down when the road is wet. Other Rainy Weather Tips Besides slowing down, other wet weather driving tips include: (cid:127) Allow extra following distance. (cid:127) Pass with caution. (cid:127) Keep windshield wiping equipment in good shape. (cid:127) Keep the windshield washer fluid reservoir filled. (cid:127) Have good tires with proper tread depth. See Tires


on page 5-63.


Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads Rain and wet roads can reduce vehicle traction and affect your ability to stop and accelerate. Always drive slower in these types of driving conditions and avoid driving through large puddles and deep-standing or flowing water.


{CAUTION:


Wet brakes can cause crashes. They might not work as well in a quick stop and could cause pulling to one side. You could lose control of the vehicle. After driving through a large puddle of water or a car/vehicle wash, lightly apply the brake pedal until the brakes work normally. Flowing or rushing water creates strong forces. Driving through flowing water could cause your vehicle to be carried away. If this happens, you and other vehicle occupants could drown. Do not ignore police warnings and be very cautious about trying to drive through flowing water.


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Before Leaving on a Long Trip To prepare your vehicle for a long trip, consider having it serviced by your dealer/retailer before departing. Things to check on your own include: (cid:127) Windshield Washer Fluid: Reservoir full? Windows


clean — inside and outside?


(cid:127) Wiper Blades: In good shape?


Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: All levels checked? Lamps: Do they all work and are lenses clean? Tires: Are treads good? Are tires inflated to recommended pressure?


(cid:127) Weather and Maps: Safe to travel? Have up-to-date


maps?


Highway Hypnosis Always be alert and pay attention to your surroundings while driving. If you become tired or sleepy, find a safe place to park your vehicle and rest. Other driving tips include: (cid:127) Keep the vehicle well ventilated. (cid:127) Keep interior temperature cool. (cid:127) Keep your eyes moving — scan the road ahead


and to the sides.


(cid:127) Check the rearview mirror and vehicle instruments


often.


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(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) Hill and Mountain Roads Driving on steep hills or through mountains is different than driving on flat or rolling terrain. Tips for driving in these conditions include: (cid:127) Keep your vehicle serviced and in good shape. (cid:127) Check all fluid levels and brakes, tires, cooling


system, and transmission.


(cid:127) Going down steep or long hills, shift to a


lower gear.


{CAUTION:


If you do not shift down, the brakes could get so hot that they would not work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Shift down to let the engine assist the brakes on a steep downhill slope.


{CAUTION:


Coasting downhill in NEUTRAL (N) or with the ignition off is dangerous. The brakes will have to do all the work of slowing down and they could get so hot that they would not work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Always have the engine running and your vehicle in gear when you go downhill.


(cid:127) Stay in your own lane. Do not swing wide or cut


across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let you stay in your own lane. Top of hills: Be alert — something could be in your lane (stalled car, accident).


(cid:127) Pay attention to special road signs (falling rocks


area, winding roads, long grades, passing or no-passing zones) and take appropriate action.


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(cid:127) Winter Driving Here are some tips for winter driving: (cid:127) Have your vehicle in good shape for winter. (cid:127) You might want to put winter emergency supplies in


your trunk.


Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a supply of windshield washer fluid, a rag, some winter outer clothing, a small shovel, a flashlight, a red cloth, and a couple of reflective warning triangles. And, if you will be driving under severe conditions, include a small bag of sand, a piece of old carpet, or a couple of burlap bags to help provide traction. Be sure you properly secure these items in your vehicle. Also see Tires on page 5-63. Driving on Snow or Ice Most of the time, those places where the tires meet the road probably have good traction. However, if there is snow or ice between the tires and the road, you can have a very slippery situation. You have a lot less traction, or grip, and need to be very careful.


What is the worst time for this? Wet ice. Very cold snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice can be even more trouble because it can offer the least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it is about freezing, 32°F (0°C), and freezing rain begins to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews can get there. Whatever the condition — smooth ice, packed, blowing, or loose snow — drive with caution.


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If You Are Caught in a Blizzard If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a serious situation. You should probably stay with your vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near help and you can hike through the snow. Here are some things to do to summon help and keep yourself and your passengers safe:


Turn on the hazard warning flashers. Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police that you have been stopped by the snow.


(cid:127) Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around you. If you do not have blankets or extra clothing, make body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags, floor mats — anything you can wrap around yourself or tuck under your clothing to keep warm.


A traction system improves your ability to accelerate when driving on a slippery road. Even though you have a traction system, slow down and adjust your driving to the road conditions. Under certain conditions, you might want to turn the traction system off, such as when driving through deep snow and loose gravel, to help maintain vehicle motion at lower speeds. See Traction Control System (TCS) on page 4-6, Enhanced Traction System (ETS) on page 4-7, and StabiliTrak® System on page 4-8. The Antilock Brake System (ABS) improves your vehicle’s stability when you make a hard stop on a slippery road. Even though you have ABS, begin stopping sooner than you would on dry pavement. See Antilock Brake System (ABS) on page 4-4. (cid:127) Allow greater following distance on any


slippery road.


(cid:127) Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine


until you hit a spot that is covered with ice. On an otherwise clear road, ice patches can appear in shaded areas where the sun cannot reach, such as around clumps of trees, behind buildings, or under bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass can remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you are on it. Try not to brake while you are actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers.


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(cid:127) (cid:127) You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.


{CAUTION:


Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you. You cannot see it or smell it, so you might not know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking the exhaust pipe. And check around again from time to time to be sure snow does not collect there. Open a window just a little on the side of the vehicle that is away from the wind. This will help keep CO out.


Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps the battery charged. You will need a well-charged battery to restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with the headlamps. Let the heater run for a while.


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Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again and repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or so until help comes.


If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand, Mud, Ice, or Snow Slowly and cautiously spin the wheels to free your vehicle when stuck in sand, mud, ice, or snow. See Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out on page 4-21. If your vehicle has a traction system, it can often help to free a stuck vehicle. Refer to your vehicle’s traction system in the Index. If the stuck condition is too severe for the traction system to free the vehicle, turn the traction system off and use the rocking method.


{CAUTION:


If you let your vehicle’s tires spin at high speed, they can explode, and you or others could be injured. The vehicle can overheat, causing an engine compartment fire or other damage. Spin the wheels as little as possible and avoid going above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.


For information about using tire chains on your vehicle, see Tire Chains on page 5-84.


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Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out First, turn the steering wheel left and right to clear the area around the front wheels. Turn off any traction or stability system. See Traction Control System (TCS) on page 4-6, Enhanced Traction System (ETS) on page 4-7, and StabiliTrak® System on page 4-8. Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible. To prevent transmission wear, wait until the wheels stop spinning before shifting gears. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear. By slowly spinning the wheels in the forward and reverse directions, you will cause a rocking motion that could free your vehicle. If that does not get your vehicle out after a few tries, it might need to be towed out. If your vehicle does need to be towed out, see Towing Your Vehicle on page 4-27.


Loading Your Vehicle It is very important to know how much weight your vehicle can carry. Two labels on your vehicle show how much weight it may properly carry, the Tire and Loading Information label and the Vehicle Certification label.


{CAUTION:


Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle.


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The Tire and Loading Information label lists the number of occupant seating positions (A), and the maximum vehicle capacity weight (B) in kilograms and pounds. The vehicle capacity weight includes the weight of all occupants, cargo, and all nonfactory-installed options. The Tire and Loading Information label also lists the tire size of the original equipment tires (C) and the recommended cold tire inflation pressures (D). For more information on tires and inflation, see Tires on page 5-63 and Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-70. There is also important loading information on the Certification label. It tells you the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) and the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for the front and rear axle, see “Certification Label” later in this section.


Tire and Loading Information Label


Label Example


A vehicle specific Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar). With the driver’s door open, you will find the label attached below the door lock post (striker).


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Steps for Determining Correct Load Limit 1. Locate the statement “The combined weight of


occupants and cargo should never exceed XXX kg or XXX lbs” on your vehicle’s placard. 2. Determine the combined weight of the driver


and passengers that will be riding in your vehicle.


3. Subtract the combined weight of the driver and passengers from XXX kg or XXX lbs.


4. The resulting figure equals the available


amount of cargo and luggage load capacity. For example, if the “XXX” amount equals 1400 lbs and there will be five 150 lb passengers in your vehicle, the amount of available cargo and luggage load capacity is 650 lbs (1400 − 750 (5 x 150) = 650 lbs).


5. Determine the combined weight of luggage and cargo being loaded on the vehicle. That weight may not safely exceed the available cargo and luggage load capacity calculated in Step 4.


6. If your vehicle will be towing a trailer, the load


from your trailer will be transferred to your vehicle. Consult this manual to determine how this reduces the available cargo and luggage load capacity for your vehicle.


If your vehicle can tow a trailer, see Towing a Trailer on page 4-28 for important information on towing a trailer, towing safety rules, and trailering tips.


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Example 1


Item


Description Maximum Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 1 = Subtract Occupant Weight 150 lbs (68 kg) × 2 = Available Occupant and Cargo Weight =


Total


Item


1,000 lbs (453 kg)


300 lbs (136 kg)


700 lbs (317 kg)


Example 2


Description Maximum Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 2 = Subtract Occupant Weight 150 lbs (68 kg) × 5 = Available Cargo Weight =


Total


1,000 lbs (453 kg)


750 lbs (340 kg)


250 lbs (113 kg)


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Certification Label


Example 3


Item


Description Maximum Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 3 = Subtract Occupant Weight 200 lbs (91 kg) × 5 = Available Cargo Weight =


Total


1,000 lbs (453 kg)


1,000 lbs (453 kg)


0 lbs (0 kg)


Refer to your vehicle’s Tire and Loading Information label for specific information about your vehicle’s maximum vehicle capacity weight and seating positions. The combined weight of the driver, passengers, and cargo should never exceed your vehicle’s maximum vehicle capacity weight.


A vehicle specific Certification label is found on the rear edge of the driver’s door. The label shows the gross weight capacity of your vehicle, called the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel, and cargo.


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Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle or the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for either the front or rear axle. If the vehicle is going to carry a heavy load, spread it out. See “Steps for Determining Correct Load Limit” earlier in this section.


If things like suitcases, tools, packages, or anything else are put inside the vehicle, they will go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they will keep going.


{CAUTION:


Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle.


Notice: Overloading your vehicle may cause damage. Repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not overload your vehicle.


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{CAUTION:


Things you put inside your vehicle can strike and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or in a crash.


(cid:127) Put things in the trunk of your vehicle. In a trunk, put them as far forward as you can. Try to spread the weight evenly.


(cid:127) Never stack heavier things, like


suitcases, inside the vehicle so that some of them are above the tops of the seats.


(cid:127) Do not leave an unsecured child


restraint in your vehicle.


(cid:127) When you carry something inside the vehicle, secure it whenever you can.


(cid:127) Do not leave a seat folded down


unless you need to.


Towing


Towing Your Vehicle Consult your dealer/retailer or a professional towing service if you need to have your disabled vehicle towed. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-8. If you want to tow your vehicle behind another vehicle for recreational purposes (such as behind a motorhome), see “Recreational Vehicle Towing” following.


Recreational Vehicle Towing Recreational vehicle towing means towing your vehicle behind another vehicle — such as behind a motorhome. The two most common types of recreational vehicle towing are known as dinghy towing, towing your vehicle with all four wheels on the ground, and dolly towing, towing your vehicle with two wheels on the ground and two wheels up on a device known as a dolly. With the proper preparation and equipment, many vehicles can be towed in these ways. See “Dinghy Towing” and “Dolly Towing,” following.


Here are some important things to consider before you do recreational vehicle towing: (cid:127) What is the towing capacity of the towing vehicle? Be sure you read the tow vehicle manufacturer’s recommendations.


(cid:127) How far will you tow? Some vehicles have


restrictions on how far and how long they can tow.


(cid:127) Do you have the proper towing equipment?


See your dealer/retailer or trailering professional for additional advice and equipment recommendations. Is your vehicle ready to be towed? Just as you would prepare your vehicle for a long trip, you will want to make sure your vehicle is prepared to be towed. See Before Leaving on a Long Trip on page 4-15.


If you tow your vehicle with all four wheels


Dinghy Towing Notice: on the ground, the drivetrain components could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not tow your vehicle with all four wheels on the ground. The vehicle was not designed to be towed with all four wheels on the ground. If your vehicle must be towed, you should use a dolly. See “Dolly Towing” that follows for more information.


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(cid:127) Dolly Towing


Your vehicle can be towed using a dolly. To tow your vehicle using a dolly: 1. Put the front wheels on a dolly. 2. Put the gear shift lever in PARK (P). 3. Set the parking brake and then remove the


ignition key.


4. Clamp the steering wheel in a straight-ahead


position.


5. Release the parking brake.


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Towing a Trailer


{CAUTION:


If you do not use the correct equipment and drive properly, you can lose control when you pull a trailer. For example, if the trailer is too heavy, the brakes may not work well — or even at all. You and your passengers could be seriously injured. You may also damage your vehicle; the resulting repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Pull a trailer only if you have followed all the steps in this section. Ask your dealer/retailer for advice and information about towing a trailer with your vehicle.


Your vehicle can tow a trailer if it has the proper trailer towing equipment. To identify the trailering capacity of your vehicle, read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this section. Trailering is different than just driving the vehicle by itself.


(cid:127) Do not tow a trailer at all during the first 1,000 miles (1 600 km) the vehicle is driven. The engine, axle or other parts could be damaged. Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that the vehicle tows a trailer, do not drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and do not make starts at full throttle. This helps the engine and other parts of the vehicle wear in at the heavier loads.


(cid:127) Obey speed limit restrictions when towing a trailer. Do not drive faster than the maximum posted speed for trailers, or no more than 55 mph (90 km/h), to save wear on the vehicle’s parts.


There are three important considerations have to do with weight:


The weight of the trailer The weight of the trailer tongue The total weight on the vehicle’s tires


Trailering means changes in handling, acceleration, braking, durability, and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly. That is the reason for this part. In it are many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before pulling a trailer. Load-pulling components such as the engine, transmission, wheel assembly, and tires are forced to work harder against the drag of the added weight. The engine is required to operate at relatively higher speeds and under greater loads, generating extra heat. What is more, the trailer adds considerably to wind resistance, increasing the pulling requirements. If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer Here are some important points:


There are many different laws, including speed limit restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure your rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you will be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police.


(cid:127) Consider using a sway control. Ask a hitch


dealer about sway controls.


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(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total or gross weight of the vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. If there are a lot of options, equipment, passengers or cargo in the vehicle, it will reduce the tongue weight the vehicle can carry, which will also reduce the trailer weight the vehicle can tow. And if you tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load to the GVW because the vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-21 for more information about the vehicle’s maximum load capacity.


Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It should never weigh more than 1,000 lbs (450 kg). But even that can be too heavy. It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much the vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. It can also depend on any special equipment that is on the vehicle, and the amount of tongue weight the vehicle can carry. See “Weight of the Trailer Tongue” later in this section for more information. Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming only the driver is in the tow vehicle and it has all the required trailering equipment. The weight of additional optional equipment, passengers and cargo must be subtracted from the maximum trailer weight. Ask your dealer/retailer for our trailering information or advice, or write us at our Customer Assistance Offices. See Customer Assistance Offices on page 7-6
for more information.


4-30


Hitches It is important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a few reasons why the right hitch is needed. Here are some rules to follow:


The rear bumper on the vehicle is not intended for hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or other bumper-type hitches to it. Use only a frame-mounted hitch that does not attach to the bumper. If holes need to be made in the body of the vehicle to install a trailer hitch, then be sure to seal the holes later when the hitch is removed. If the holes are not sealed, deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from the exhaust can get into the vehicle. See Engine Exhaust on page 2-37. Dirt and water can, too.


Safety Chains Chains should always be attached between the vehicle and the trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer so that the tongue will not drop to the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety chains and do not attach them to the bumper. Always leave just enough slack so the rig can be turned. And, never allow safety chains to drag on the ground.


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When using a weight-carrying hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 10 percent to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B). After the trailer is loaded, weigh the trailer and the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. The correct weight could be achieved simply by moving some items around in the trailer. Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires Be sure the vehicle’s tires are inflated to the upper limit for cold tires. These numbers can be found on the Tire-Loading Information label. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-21. Be sure not to go over the GVW limit for the vehicle, or the GAWR, including the weight of the trailer tongue. If a weight distribution hitch is used, make sure not to go over the rear axle limit before applying the weight distribution spring bars.


(cid:127) (cid:127) Trailer Brakes Does your trailer have its own brakes? Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install, adjust and maintain them properly.


If your vehicle has antilock brakes, do not try to tap into your vehicle’s brake system. If you do, both brake systems will not work well, or at all. (cid:127) Even if your vehicle does not have antilock


brakes, do not tap into your vehicle’s brake system if the trailer’s brake system will use more than 0.02 cubic inch (0.3 cc) of fluid from your vehicle’s master cylinder. If it does, both braking systems will not work well. You could even lose your brakes.


(cid:127) Will the trailer brake parts take 3,000 psi


(20 650 kPa) of pressure? If not, the trailer brake system must not be used with your vehicle. If everything checks out this far, then make the brake fluid tap at the upper rear master cylinder port. But do not use copper tubing for this. If you do, it will bend and break off. Use steel brake tubing.


Driving with a Trailer Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out for the open road, get to know the rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle is now a good deal longer and not nearly as responsive as the vehicle is by itself. Before starting, check all trailer hitch parts and attachments, safety chains, electrical connector, lamps, tires, and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start the vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check the electrical connection at the same time. During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working.


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(cid:127) (cid:127) Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as when driving the vehicle without a trailer. This can help avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns. Passing More passing distance is needed up ahead when towing a trailer. And, because the vehicle is a good deal longer with the trailer, you will need to go much farther beyond the vehicle you have passed before you can return to the proper lane. Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you.


Making Turns Notice: Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering. When turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so the trailer will not strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees, or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance. Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer When towing a trailer, the vehicle may need a different turn signal flasher and/or extra wiring. Check with your dealer/retailer. The arrows on the instrument panel will flash whenever signaling a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other drivers you are about to turn, change lanes or stop. When towing a trailer, the arrows on the instrument panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. You may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It is important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working.


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Driving On Grades Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before starting down a long hill or steep downgrade. If the vehicle is not shifted down, the brakes might have to be used so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce the vehicle’s speed to around 45 mph (70 km/h) to reduce the possibility of engine and transmission overheating. If towing a trailer, you may want to drive in THIRD (3) instead of DRIVE (D). Shift to a lower gear as needed. Parking on Hills


But if the rig ever has to be parked on a hill, here is how to do it: 1. Apply the regular brakes, but do not shift into


PARK (P) yet.


2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer’s


wheels.


3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.


4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply the parking


brake, and shift to PARK (P).


5. Release the regular brakes.


{CAUTION:


You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged.


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When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply the regular brakes and hold the pedal down


while you: (cid:127) Start the engine. (cid:127) Shift into a gear. (cid:127) Release the parking brake.


2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks. 4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the


chocks.


Maintenance When Trailer Towing The vehicle will need service more often when it pulls a trailer. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 for more information. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transmission fluid; which should not be overfilled; engine oil, drive belt(s), and cooling and brake systems. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly. If trailering, it is a good idea to review this information before starting on a trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight. Engine Cooling When Trailer Towing The cooling system may temporarily overheat during severe operating conditions. See Engine Overheating on page 5-30.


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✍ NOTES


4-36


Section 5


Service and Appearance Care


Service ............................................................5-3
Accessories and Modifications ..........................5-3
California Proposition 65 Warning .....................5-3
California Perchlorate Materials Requirements .....5-4
Doing Your Own Service Work .........................5-4
Adding Equipment to the Outside of


Your Vehicle ..............................................5-5
Fuel ................................................................5-5
Gasoline Octane ............................................5-5
Gasoline Specifications ....................................5-6
California Fuel ...............................................5-6
Additives .......................................................5-7
Fuels in Foreign Countries ...............................5-7
Filling the Tank ..............................................5-8
Filling a Portable Fuel Container .....................5-10
Checking Things Under the Hood ....................5-10
Hood Release ..............................................5-11
Engine Compartment Overview .......................5-12
Engine Oil ...................................................5-18
Engine Oil Life System ..................................5-21
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter ................................5-23
Automatic Transmission Fluid .........................5-25
Engine Coolant .............................................5-27
Radiator Pressure Cap ..................................5-29
Pressure Cap ...............................................5-30


Engine Overheating .......................................5-30
Overheated Engine Protection


Operating Mode ........................................5-32
Cooling System ............................................5-33
Power Steering Fluid .....................................5-43
Windshield Washer Fluid ................................5-44
Brakes ........................................................5-46
Battery ........................................................5-49
Jump Starting ...............................................5-50
Headlamp Aiming ...........................................5-56
Bulb Replacement ..........................................5-58
Halogen Bulbs ..............................................5-58
Taillamps, Turn Signal, Sidemarker, Stoplamps


and Back-up Lamps ...................................5-59
License Plate Lamp ......................................5-61
Replacement Bulbs .......................................5-61
Windshield Replacement .................................5-62
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement ..............5-62
Tires ..............................................................5-63
Tire Sidewall Labeling ...................................5-64
Tire Terminology and Definitions .....................5-67
Inflation - Tire Pressure .................................5-70
Tire Pressure Monitor System .........................5-71
Tire Pressure Monitor Operation .....................5-73


5-1


Section 5


Service and Appearance Care


Tire Inspection and Rotation ...........................5-75
When It Is Time for New Tires .......................5-77
Buying New Tires .........................................5-78
Different Size Tires and Wheels ......................5-80
Uniform Tire Quality Grading ..........................5-80
Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance ..................5-82
Wheel Replacement ......................................5-82
Tire Chains ..................................................5-84
If a Tire Goes Flat ........................................5-86
Changing a Flat Tire .....................................5-87
Removing the Spare Tire and Tools ................5-88
Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the


Spare Tire ................................................5-89


Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools


(Base Model) ............................................5-95


Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools


(Super Only) .............................................5-97
Compact Spare Tire ......................................5-98
Appearance Care ............................................5-99
Interior Cleaning ...........................................5-99
Fabric/Carpet ..............................................5-100
Leather ......................................................5-101
Instrument Panel, Vinyl, and Other Plastic


Surfaces .................................................5-101
Care of Safety Belts ....................................5-102
Weatherstrips .............................................5-102


5-2


Washing Your Vehicle ..................................5-102
Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses ....................5-103
Finish Care ................................................5-103
Windshield and Wiper Blades .......................5-104
Aluminum or Chrome-Plated Wheels


and Trim ................................................5-104
Tires .........................................................5-105
Sheet Metal Damage ...................................5-105
Finish Damage ...........................................5-105
Underbody Maintenance ...............................5-106
Chemical Paint Spotting ...............................5-106
Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials ................5-106
Vehicle Identification .....................................5-107
Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) ................5-107
Service Parts Identification Label ...................5-108
Electrical System ..........................................5-108
Add-On Electrical Equipment .........................5-108
Headlamp Wiring ........................................5-109
Windshield Wiper Fuses ...............................5-109
Power Windows and Other Power Options ......5-109
Fuses and Circuit Breakers ..........................5-109
Instrument Panel Fuse Block ........................5-110
Underhood Fuse Block ................................5-112
Capacities and Specifications ........................5-116
Capacities and Specifications ........................5-116


Service For service and parts needs, visit your dealer/retailer. You will receive genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:


Accessories and Modifications When non-dealer/non-retailer accessories are added to your vehicle they can affect your vehicle’s performance and safety, including such things as, airbags, braking, stability, ride and handling, emissions systems, aerodynamics, durability, and electronic systems like antilock brakes, traction control and stability control. Some of these accessories could even cause malfunction or damage not covered by warranty. GM Accessories are designed to complement and function with other systems on your vehicle. Your GM dealer/retailer can accessorize your vehicle using genuine GM Accessories. When you go to your GM dealer/retailer and ask for GM Accessories, you will know that GM-trained and supported service technicians will perform the work using genuine GM Accessories. Also, see Adding Equipment to Your Airbag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-67.


California Proposition 65 Warning Most motor vehicles, including this one, contain and/or emit chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. Engine exhaust, many parts and systems (including some inside the vehicle), many fluids, and some component wear by-products contain and/or emit these chemicals.


5-3


California Perchlorate Materials Requirements Certain types of automotive applications, such as airbag initiators, seat belt pretensioners, and lithium batteries contained in remote keyless entry transmitters, may contain perchlorate materials. Special handling may be necessary. For additional information, see www.dtsc.ca.gov/hazardouswaste/perchlorate.


Doing Your Own Service Work


{CAUTION:


You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it.


CAUTION:


(Continued)


5-4


CAUTION:


(Continued)


(cid:127) Be sure you have sufficient knowledge,


experience, the proper replacement parts, and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task.


(cid:127) Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts, and


other fasteners. English and metric fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.


If you want to do some of your own service work, you should use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 7-16. Your vehicle has an airbag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see Servicing Your Airbag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-66. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See Maintenance Record on page 6-16.


Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airflow around it. This can cause wind noise and can affect fuel economy and windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer/retailer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle. Fuel Use of the recommended fuel is an important part of the proper maintenance of your vehicle. To help keep the engine clean and maintain optimum vehicle performance, we recommend the use of gasoline advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. The 8th digit of the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) shows the code letter or number that identifies your vehicle’s engine. The VIN is at the top left of the instrument panel. See Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) on page 5-107.


Gasoline Octane If your vehicle has the 3.8L V6 engine (VIN Code 2), use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 87 or higher. If the octane rating is less than 87, you might notice an audible knocking noise when you drive, commonly referred to as spark knock. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. If you are using gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, the engine needs service. If your vehicle has the 3.6L V6 engine (VIN Code 7), use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 87 or higher. For best performance or trailer towing, you could choose to use middle grade 89 octane unleaded gasoline. If the octane rating is less than 87, you might notice an audible knocking noise when you drive, commonly referred to as spark knock. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. If you are using gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, the engine needs service.


5-5


California Fuel If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emissions Standards, it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. See the underhood emission control label. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance might be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp could turn on and your vehicle might fail a smog-check test. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-42. If this occurs, return to your authorized dealer/retailer for diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs might not be covered by your warranty.


If your vehicle has the 5.3L V8 engine (VIN Code C), use premium unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 91 or higher. You can also use regular unleaded gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher, but your vehicle’s acceleration could be slightly reduced, and you might notice a slight audible knocking noise, commonly referred to as spark knock. If the octane is less than 87, you might notice a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. Otherwise, you could damage the engine. If you are using gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, the engine needs service.


Gasoline Specifications At a minimum, gasoline should meet ASTM specification D 4814 in the United States or CAN/CGSB-3.5 or 3.511
in Canada. Some gasolines contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT). We recommend against the use of gasolines containing MMT. See Additives on page 5-7 for additional information.


5-6


Additives To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing the emission control system to work properly. In most cases, you should not have to add anything to the fuel. However, some gasolines contain only the minimum amount of additive required to meet U.S. Environmental Protection Agency regulations. To help keep fuel injectors and intake valves clean, or if your vehicle experiences problems due to dirty injectors or valves, look for gasoline that is advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. Also, your dealer/retailer has additives that will help correct and prevent most deposit-related problems. Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines might be available in your area. We recommend that you use these gasolines, if they comply with the specifications described earlier. However, E85 (85% ethanol) and other fuels containing more than 10% ethanol must not be used in vehicles that were not designed for those fuels. Notice: Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in the fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under your warranty.


Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions can contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT. We recommend against the use of such gasolines. Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system could be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp might turn on. If this occurs, return to your dealer/retailer for service.


Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel might be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel would not be covered by your warranty. To check the fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you will be driving.


5-7


Filling the Tank


{CAUTION:


Fuel vapor burns violently and a fuel fire can cause bad injuries. To help avoid injuries to you and others, read and follow all the instructions on the pump island. Turn off your engine when you are refueling. Do not smoke if you are near fuel or refueling your vehicle. Do not use cellular phones. Keep sparks, flames, and smoking materials away from fuel. Do not leave the fuel pump unattended when refueling your vehicle. This is against the law in some places. Do not re-enter the vehicle while pumping fuel. Keep children away from the fuel pump; never let children pump fuel.


5-8


The tethered fuel cap is located behind a hinged fuel door on the driver’s side of the vehicle. To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly counterclockwise. While refueling, hang the tethered fuel cap from the hook on the fuel door.


{CAUTION:


Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. If you spill fuel and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any hiss noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.


Be careful not to spill fuel. Do not top off or overfill the tank and wait a few seconds after you have finished pumping before removing the nozzle. Clean fuel from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-102. When replacing the fuel cap, turn it clockwise until it clicks. Make sure the cap is fully installed. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-42. Your vehicle may also have a check gas cap warning light, which will be displayed on the instrument panel cluster if the fuel cap is not properly installed. See Check Gas Cap Light on page 3-49 for more information.


If your vehicle has a Driver Information Center (DIC), the CHECK GAS CAP message will be displayed if the fuel cap is not properly installed. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-58 for more information.


{CAUTION:


If a fire starts while you are refueling, do not remove the nozzle. Shut off the flow of fuel by shutting off the pump or by notifying the station attendant. Leave the area immediately.


Notice: If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get the right type. Your dealer/retailer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage your fuel tank and emissions system. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-42.


5-9


Filling a Portable Fuel Container


{CAUTION:


Never fill a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the fuel vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others:


(cid:127) Dispense fuel only into approved


containers.


(cid:127) Do not fill a container while it is inside a


vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed, or on any surface other than the ground. (cid:127) Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the


inside of the fill opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the filling is complete.


(cid:127) Do not smoke while pumping fuel. (cid:127) Do not use a cellular phone while


pumping fuel.


Checking Things Under the Hood


{CAUTION:


An electric fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan.


{CAUTION:


Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.


5-10


Hood Release To open the hood, do the following:


1. Pull the interior hood


release handle with this symbol on it. It is located to the left of the steering column below the instrument panel.


2. Push the secondary hood release lever, located under the center of the hood above the grille, up and to the right to disengage it.


3. Lift the hood. Before closing the hood, make sure all the filler caps are properly secured. Pull the hood down and close it firmly.


5-11


Engine Compartment Overview When you open the hood on the 3.6L V6 engine, this is what you will see:


5-12


A. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-44.


B. Battery. See Battery on page 5-49. C. Remote Positive (+) Terminal. See Jump Starting on


page 5-50.


D. Underhood Fuse Block. See Underhood Fuse Block


on page 5-112.


E. Passenger Compartment Air Filter. See Passenger


Compartment Air Filter on page 3-29.


F. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank. See Cooling System


on page 5-33.


G. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See Power Steering


Fluid on page 5-43.


H. Pressure Cap. See Radiator Pressure Cap on


page 5-29.


I. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”


under Engine Oil on page 5-18.


J. Electric Engine Cooling Fans. See Cooling System


on page 5-33.


K. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”


under Engine Oil on page 5-18.


L. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick. See “Checking the Fluid Level” under Automatic Transmission Fluid on page 5-25.


M. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid”


under Brakes on page 5-46.


N. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air


Cleaner/Filter on page 5-23.


5-13


When you open the hood on the 3.8L V6 engine, this is what you will see:


5-14


A. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding


Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-44.


B. Battery. See Battery on page 5-49. C. Remote Positive (+) Terminal. See Jump Starting on


page 5-50.


D. Passenger Compartment Air Filter. See Passenger


Compartment Air Filter on page 3-29.


E. Underhood Fuse Block. See Underhood Fuse Block


on page 5-112.


F. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank. See Cooling System


on page 5-33.


G. Radiator Pressure Cap. See Radiator Pressure Cap


on page 5-29.


H. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir (Out of View). See


Power Steering Fluid on page 5-43.


I. Electric Engine Cooling Fans. See Cooling System


on page 5-33.


J. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”


under Engine Oil on page 5-18.


K. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”


under Engine Oil on page 5-18.


L. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick. See “Checking the Fluid Level” under Automatic Transmission Fluid on page 5-25.


M. Engine Coolant Bleed Valve. See “How to Add


Coolant to the Radiator” under Cooling System on page 5-33.


N. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid”


under Brakes on page 5-46.


O. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air


Cleaner/Filter on page 5-23.


5-15


When you open the hood on the 5.3L V8 engine, here is what you will see:


5-16


A. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding


Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-44.


B. Battery. See Battery on page 5-49. C. Underhood Fuse Block. See Underhood Fuse Block


on page 5-112.


D. Remote Positive (+) Terminal. See Jump Starting on


page 5-50.


E. Pressure Cap. See Pressure Cap on page 5-30. F. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See Power Steering


Fluid on page 5-43.


G. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”


under Engine Oil on page 5-18.


H. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”


under Engine Oil on page 5-18.


I. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick. See “Checking the Fluid Level” under Automatic Transmission Fluid on page 5-25.


J. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid”


under Brakes on page 5-46.


K. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air


Cleaner/Filter on page 5-23.


L. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank. See Cooling System


on page 5-33.


5-17


Engine Oil Checking Engine Oil It is a good idea to check the engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground. The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine oil dipstick. 1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you do not do this, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.


2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.


When to Add Engine Oil


3.6L V6 Engine


3.8L V6 Engine


5-18


See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine oil fill cap.


5.3L V8 Engine


If the oil is below the cross-hatched area at the tip of the dipstick, add at least one quart/liter of the recommended oil. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Specifications on page 5-116. Notice: Do not add too much oil. If the engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, the engine could be damaged.


Be sure to add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range in the cross-hatched area. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you are through.


5-19


What Kind of Engine Oil to Use


These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50.


(cid:127) Oils meeting these


requirements should have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API).


Look for this information on the oil container, and use only those oils that are identified as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and have the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. Notice: Use only engine oil identified as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and showing the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty. If you are in an area of extreme cold, where the temperature falls below −20°F (−29°C), it is recommended that you use either an SAE 5W-30
synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both provide easier cold starting and better protection for the engine at extremely low temperatures.


Look for three things: (cid:127) GM6094M


Your vehicle’s engine requires oil meeting GM Standard GM6094M. Look for and use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM6094M.


(cid:127) SAE 5W-30


As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle.


5-20


Engine Oil Additives Do not add anything to the oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol that meet GM Standard GM6094M are all you need for good performance and engine protection.


Engine Oil Life System When to Change Engine Oil Your vehicle has a computer system that lets you know when to change the engine oil and filter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change will be indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, you must reset the system every time the oil is changed.


When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it will indicate that an oil change is necessary. A change engine oil light or, if your vehicle has the Driver Information Center (DIC), a CHANGE OIL SOON message will come on. See Change Engine Oil Light on page 3-45 or DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-58. Change the oil as soon as possible within the next 600 miles (1 000 km). It is possible that, if you are driving under the best conditions, the oil life system might not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, the engine oil and filter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. Your dealer/retailer has trained service people who will perform this work using genuine parts and reset the system. It is also important to check the oil regularly and keep it at the proper level. If the system is ever reset accidentally, you must change the oil at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since the last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed.


5-21


How to Reset the Engine Oil Life System The Engine Oil Life System calculates when to change the engine oil and filter based on vehicle use. Whenever the oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where you change the oil prior to a change engine oil light or CHANGE OIL SOON message being turned on, reset the system. After changing the engine oil, reset the system: (cid:127) Vehicles with Driver Information Center (DIC)


1. Press the option button on the DIC until ENGINE OIL MONITOR appears on the DIC screen.


2. Press the set/reset button to reset the system.


The next screen indicates that the CHANGE OIL SOON message has been reset.


If the vehicle has the uplevel DIC, when the gages button is pressed and the OIL LIFE REMAINING mode appears, it should read 100 percent OIL LIFE REMAINING.


3. Turn the key to LOCK/OFF.


5-22


(cid:127) Vehicles without Driver Information Center (DIC)


1. With the engine off, turn the ignition key to


ON/RUN.


2. Fully press and release the accelerator pedal


slowly three times within five seconds.


3. Turn the key to LOCK/OFF, then start the


vehicle.


If the light or message comes back on when you start your vehicle, the oil life system has not reset. Repeat the procedure. What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that can be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the filter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of used oil, ask your dealer/retailer, a service station, or a local recycling center for help.


Engine Air Cleaner/Filter The engine air cleaner/filter is located in the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. When to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Inspect the air cleaner/filter at the Maintenance II intervals and replace it at the first oil change after each 50,000 mile (80 000 km) interval. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 for more information. If you are driving in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect the filter at each engine oil change. How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter To inspect the air cleaner/filter, remove the filter from the vehicle and lightly shake the filter to release loose dust and dirt. If the filter remains caked with dirt, a new filter is required.


To inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/filter do the following:


3.8L V6 Engine shown, 3.6L Engine similar


5-23


5. To reinstall the cover, position the tabs through the slots on the housing. If your vehicle has one of the V6 engines, a notch on the sides of the filter cover will indicate the correct engagement.


6. Push the cover tabs on top of the housing to lock


the cover in place.


{CAUTION:


Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps to stop flames if the engine backfires. If it is not there and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.


If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire can Notice: cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you are driving.


5.3L V8 Engine


1. Lift the filter cover tabs on top of the engine air


cleaner/filter housing.


2. Push the filter cover housing toward the engine. 3. Pull out the filter. 4. Inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/filter.


5-24


Automatic Transmission Fluid When to Check and Change Automatic Transmission Fluid A good time to check the automatic transmission fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change the fluid and filter at the intervals listed in Additional Required Services on page 6-6, and be sure to use the transmission fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. How to Check Automatic Transmission Fluid Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealer/retailer service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.


Notice: Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Too little fluid could cause the transmission to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid. Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission fluid level if you have been driving: (cid:127) When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C). (cid:127) At high speed for quite a while.


In heavy traffic — especially in hot weather.


(cid:127) While pulling a trailer. To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), you may have to drive longer.


5-25


(cid:127) Checking the Fluid Level Prepare the vehicle as follows: 1. Park the vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine


running.


2. With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever


in PARK (P).


3. With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift


lever through each gear, pausing for about three seconds in each one. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P).


4. Let the engine run at idle for three to five minutes. Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:


The transmission fluid dipstick handle has this symbol on it, and is located near the rear of the engine compartment.


See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. 1. Pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or


paper towel.


2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and


then pull it back out again.


3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the


lower level. The fluid level must be in the crosshatched area.


4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the


dipstick back in all the way.


5-26


How to Add Automatic Transmission Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transmission fluid to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level into the crosshatched area on the dipstick. 1. Pull out the dipstick. 2. Using a long-neck funnel, add enough fluid at the


dipstick hole to bring it to the proper level. It does not take much fluid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Do not overfill.


Notice: Use of the incorrect automatic transmission fluid may damage your vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use the automatic transmission fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. 3. After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as described under “How to Check Automatic Transmission Fluid,” earlier in this section.


4. When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the


dipstick back in all the way.


Engine Coolant The cooling system in the vehicle is filled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in the vehicle for five years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if only DEX-COOL® extended life coolant is added. The following explains the cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If there is a problem with engine overheating or if coolant needs to be added to the radiator, see Engine Overheating on page 5-30. A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® engine coolant will: (cid:127) Give freezing protection down to −34°F (−37°C). (cid:127) Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C). (cid:127) Protect against rust and corrosion. (cid:127) Help keep the proper engine temperature.


Let the warning lights and gages work as they should.


Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at the first maintenance service after each 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle.


5-27


(cid:127) What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL® engine coolant which will not damage aluminum parts. If this coolant mixture is used, nothing else needs to be added.


{CAUTION:


Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.


If you use an improper coolant mixture,


Notice: your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core, and other parts.


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If coolant needs to be added more than four times a year, have your dealer/retailer check the cooling system. Notice: If you use extra inhibitors and/or additives in your vehicle’s cooling system, you could damage your vehicle. Use only the proper mixture of the engine coolant listed in this manual for the cooling system. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12 for more information. Checking Coolant


The coolant recovery tank is located in the engine compartment toward the rear of the engine on the passenger side of the vehicle.


If your vehicles is equipped with the 5.3L engine the coolant recovery tank is located in the engine compartment toward the rear of the engine on the driver side of the vehicle See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.


The vehicle must be on a level surface when checking the coolant level. When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the COLD FILL line or a little higher. The COLD FILL line is near the bottom of the recovery tank and has an arrow pointing down at it. Adding Coolant If more coolant is needed, add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture at the coolant recovery tank, but be careful not to spill it. If the coolant recovery tank is completely empty, add coolant to the radiator. See Engine Overheating on page 5-30.


{CAUTION:


Turning the radiator pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. With the coolant recovery tank, you will almost never have to add coolant at the radiator. Never turn the radiator pressure cap — even a little — when the engine and radiator are hot.


{CAUTION:


You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.


If the pressure cap is not tightly installed,


Occasionally check the coolant level in the radiator. For information on how to add coolant to the radiator, see Cooling System on page 5-33. Radiator Pressure Cap Notice: coolant loss and possible engine damage may occur. Be sure the cap is properly and tightly secured. The radiator pressure cap is located in the front of the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.


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If the pressure cap is not tightly installed,


Pressure Cap Notice: coolant loss and possible engine damage may occur. Be sure the cap is properly and tightly secured. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.


Engine Overheating There is a coolant temperature gage and a warning light on the instrument panel cluster that indicate an overheated engine condition. See Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 3-40 and Engine Coolant Temperature Warning Light on page 3-40 for more information. In addition, if your vehicle is equipped with a Driver Information Center (DIC), you will find an ENGINE COOLANT HOT and a REDUCED POWER STOP WHEN SAFE message displayed on the DIC. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-58 for more information.


5-30


If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine


{CAUTION:


Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when the vehicles engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 5-32 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency.


Notice: If your engine catches fire because you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 5-32 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency. If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine If you get an engine overheat warning, but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: (cid:127) Climb a long hill on a hot day. (cid:127) Stop after high-speed driving. Idle for long periods in traffic. Tow a trailer.


If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in NEUTRAL (N) while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) and let the engine idle.


2. Set the climate controls to the highest heat setting


and fan speed and open the windows as necessary.


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(cid:127) (cid:127) If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning does not come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues and you have not stopped, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there is still no sign of steam, you can idle the engine for three minutes while you are parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. Also, see “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” later in this section. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.


Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode This emergency operating mode allows your vehicle to be driven to a safe place in an emergency situation. If an overheated engine condition exists, an overheat protection mode which alternates firing groups of cylinders helps prevent engine damage. In this mode, you will notice a significant loss in power and engine performance. The REDUCED POWER STOP WHEN SAFE message will come on in the Driver Information Center (DIC), if the vehicle has one, along with the engine coolant temperature warning light on the instrument panel, to indicate the vehicle has entered overheated engine protection operating mode. The temperature gage will also indicate an overheat condition exists. Driving extended miles (km) and/or towing a trailer in the overheat protection mode should be avoided. Notice: After driving in the overheated engine protection operating mode, to avoid engine damage, allow the engine to cool before attempting any repair. The engine oil will be severely degraded. Repair the cause of coolant loss, change the oil and reset the oil life system. See Engine Oil on page 5-18.


5-32


Cooling System When you decide it is safe to lift the hood, this is what you will see:


3.8L V6 Engine


A. Coolant Recovery Tank B. Radiator Pressure Cap C. Electric Engine Cooling Fans


3.6L V6 Engine


A. Coolant Recovery Tank B. Pressure Cap C. Electric Engine Cooling Fans


5-33


{CAUTION:


An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan.


If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface. When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be at or above the COLD FILL line on the coolant recovery tank. If it is not, there may be a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump, or somewhere else in the cooling system.


5.3L V8 Engine


A. Pressure Cap B. Electric Engine Cooling Fans C. Coolant Recovery Tank


5-34


{CAUTION:


Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.


If there seems to be no leak, with the engine on, check to see if the electric engine cooling fans are running. If the engine is overheating, the fans should be running. If the fans are not running, the vehicle needs service.


Notice: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant is not covered by your warranty. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 5-32 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant could require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by the warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in the vehicle.


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If you have not found a problem yet, but the coolant level is not at the COLD FILL line, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® engine coolant at the coolant recovery tank. See Engine Coolant on page 5-27 for more information. Notice: the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture.


In cold weather, water can freeze and crack


How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Recovery Tank


{CAUTION:


Adding only plain water to the cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. The vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, the engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. The engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.


5-36


{CAUTION:


{CAUTION:


You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.


When the coolant level in the coolant recovery tank is at the COLD FILL line, start the vehicle. If the overheat warning continues, there is one more thing you can try. You can add the proper coolant mixture directly to the cooling system through the coolant fill neck under the pressure cap, but be sure the system is cool before you do it.


Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the radiator pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and radiator pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.


5-37


How to Add Coolant to the Cooling System (3.6L V6 Engine) Notice: The engine has a specific cooling system drain and fill procedure. Failure to follow this procedure could cause the engine to overheat and be severely damaged. If the engine’s cooling system needs to be drained and re-filled, please see the dealer/retailer.


1. You can remove the


pressure cap when the cooling system, including the pressure cap and upper radiator hose is no longer hot.


2. Then keep turning the pressure cap and remove it.


{CAUTION:


You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.


3. Fill the cooling system with the proper DEX-COOL®


coolant mixture, up to the base of the filler neck. See Engine Coolant on page 5-27 for more information about the proper coolant mixture.


4. Rinse or wipe any spilled coolant from the engine


and the compartment.


Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means that there is still some pressure left.


5-38


5. Then fill the coolant recovery tank to the COLD


FILL line.


6. Reinstall the coolant recovery tank cap and the


pressure cap.


7. If the coolant in the recovery tank is constantly low,


you should have your dealer/retailer service department inspect the vehicle for leaks.


How to Add Coolant to the Radiator (3.8L V6 Engine) Notice: Your engine has a specific radiator fill procedure. Failure to follow this procedure could cause your engine to overheat and be severely damaged.


1. You can remove the radiator pressure cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot.


Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise until it first stops. Do not press down while turning the pressure cap. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to

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