2006 Buick Lacrosse Owners Manual

Download PDF Manual
Your dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you will go to your dealer for all your service needs. You will get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. We hope you will want to keep your GM vehicle all GM. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks: Accessories and Modiﬁcations When you add non-GM accessories to your vehicle they can affect your vehicle’s performance and safety, including such things as, braking, stability, ride and handling, emissions systems, aerodynamics, durability, and electronic systems like antilock brakes, traction control and stability control. Some of these accessories may even cause malfunction or damage not covered by warranty. GM Accessories are designed to complement and function with other systems on your vehicle. Your GM dealer can accessorize your vehicle using genuine GM Accessories. When you go to your GM dealer and ask for GM Accessories, you will know that GM-trained and supported service technicians will perform the work using genuine GM Accessories. 5-3 California Proposition 65 Warning Most motor vehicles, including this one, contain and/or emit chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. Engine exhaust, many parts and systems (including some inside the vehicle), many ﬂuids, and some component wear by-products contain and/or emit these chemicals. Doing Your Own Service Work {CAUTION: You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it. (cid:127) Be sure you have sufficient knowledge, experience, the proper replacement parts, and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task. (cid:127) Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts, and other fasteners. English and metric fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt. If you want to do some of your own service work, you will want to use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 7-15. 5-4 Your vehicle has an airbag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see Servicing Your Airbag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-65. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See Maintenance Record on page 6-14. Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airﬂow around it. This may cause wind noise and affect windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle. Fuel The 8th digit of your vehicle identiﬁcation number (VIN) shows the code letter or number that identiﬁes your engine. You will ﬁnd the VIN at the top left of the instrument panel. See Vehicle Identiﬁcation Number (VIN) on page 5-92. Gasoline Octane If your vehicle has the 3.8L V6 engine (VIN Code 2), use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 87 or higher. If the octane rating is less than 87, you may notice an audible knocking noise when you drive, commonly referred to as spark knock. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. If you are using gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service. If your vehicle has the 3.6L V6 engine (VIN Code 7), use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 87 or higher. For best performance or trailer towing, you may choose to use middle grade 89 octane unleaded gasoline. If the octane rating is less than 87, you may notice an audible knocking noise when you drive, commonly referred to as spark knock. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. If you are using gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service. 5-5 Gasoline Speciﬁcations At a minimum, gasoline should meet ASTM speciﬁcation D 4814 in the United States or CAN/CGSB-3.5 in Canada. Some gasolines may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT). General Motors recommends against the use of gasolines containing MMT. See Additives on page 5-6 for additional information. California Fuel If your vehicle is certiﬁed to meet California Emissions Standards, it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California speciﬁcations. See the underhood emission control label. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal speciﬁcations, but emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on and your vehicle may fail a smog-check test. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-41. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs may not be covered by your warranty. Additives To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that will help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing your emission control system to work properly. 5-6 In most cases, you should not have to add anything to your fuel. However, some gasolines contain only the minimum amount of additive required to meet U.S. Environmental Protection Agency regulations. To help keep fuel injectors and intake valves clean, or if your vehicle experiences problems due to dirty injectors or valves, look for gasoline that is advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. Also, your GM dealer has additives that will help correct and prevent most deposit-related problems. Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in your area. General Motors recommends that you use these gasolines if they comply with the speciﬁcations described earlier. However, E85 (85% ethanol) and other fuels containing more than 10% ethanol must not be used in vehicles that were not designed for those fuels. Notice: Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage the plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under your warranty. Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT. General Motors recommends against the use of such gasolines. Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for service. Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard to ﬁnd. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel would not be covered by your warranty. To check the fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you will be driving. 5-7 Filling the Tank {CAUTION: Fuel vapor burns violently and a fuel ﬁre can cause bad injuries. To help avoid injuries to you and others, read and follow all the instructions on the pump island. Turn off your engine when you are refueling. Do not smoke if you are near fuel or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, ﬂames, and smoking materials away from fuel. Do not leave the fuel pump unattended when refueling your vehicle — this is against the law in some places. Keep children away from the fuel pump; never let children pump fuel. 5-8 The tethered fuel cap is located behind a hinged fuel door on the driver’s side of the vehicle. To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly counterclockwise. The fuel cap has a spring in it; if the cap is released too soon, it will spring back to the right. While refueling, hang the tethered fuel cap from the hook on the fuel door. {CAUTION: If you spill fuel and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any hiss noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way. Be careful not to spill fuel. Do not top off or overﬁll the tank and wait a few seconds after you have ﬁnished pumping before removing the nozzle. Clean fuel from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-87. When replacing the fuel cap, turn it clockwise until it clicks. Make sure the cap is fully installed. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-41. Your vehicle may also be equipped with a check gas cap warning light, which will be displayed on the instrument panel cluster if the fuel cap is not properly installed. See Check Gas Cap Light on page 3-48 for more information. If your vehicle has a Driver Information Center (DIC), the CHECK GAS CAP message will be displayed if the fuel cap is not properly installed. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-57 for more information. {CAUTION: If a ﬁre starts while you are refueling, do not remove the nozzle. Shut off the ﬂow of fuel by shutting off the pump or by notifying the station attendant. Leave the area immediately. If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get Notice: the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not ﬁt properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage your fuel tank and emissions system. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-41. 5-9 Filling a Portable Fuel Container {CAUTION: Never ﬁll a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others: (cid:127) Dispense gasoline only into approved containers. (cid:127) Do not ﬁll a container while it is inside a vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed, or on any surface other than the ground. (cid:127) Bring the ﬁll nozzle in contact with the inside of the ﬁll opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the ﬁlling is complete. (cid:127) Do not smoke while pumping gasoline. Checking Things Under the Hood {CAUTION: An electric fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan. {CAUTION: Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a ﬁre. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake ﬂuid, windshield washer and other ﬂuids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine. 5-10 Hood Release To open the hood, do the following: 1. Pull the interior hood release handle with this symbol on it. It is located to the left of the steering column below the instrument panel. 2. Push the secondary hood release lever, located under the center of the hood above the grille, up and to the right to disengage it. 3. Lift the hood. Before closing the hood, make sure all the ﬁller caps are properly secured. Pull the hood down and close it ﬁrmly. 5-11 Engine Compartment Overview When you open the hood on the 3.6L V6 engine, here is what you will see: 5-12 A. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-38. B. Battery. See Battery on page 5-42. C. Remote Positive (+) Terminal. See Jump Starting on page 5-42. D. Underhood Fuse Block. See Underhood Fuse Block on page 5-95. E. Passenger Compartment Air Filter. See Passenger Compartment Air Filter on page 3-30. F. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank. See Cooling System on page 5-30. G. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See Power Steering Fluid on page 5-37. H. Pressure Cap. See Radiator Pressure Cap on page 5-27. I. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 5-15. J. Electric Engine Cooling Fans. See Cooling System on page 5-30. K. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 5-15. L. Automatic Transaxle Fluid Dipstick. See “Checking the Fluid Level” under Automatic Transaxle Fluid on page 5-21. M. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid” under Brakes on page 5-39. N. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air Cleaner/Filter on page 5-20. 5-13 When you open the hood on the 3.8L V6 engine, here is what you will see: 5-14 A. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-38. M. Engine Coolant Bleed Valve. See “How to Add Coolant to the Radiator” under Cooling System on page 5-30. B. Battery. See Battery on page 5-42. C. Remote Positive (+) Terminal. See Jump Starting on page 5-42. D. Passenger Compartment Air Filter. See Passenger Compartment Air Filter on page 3-30. E. Underhood Fuse Block. See Underhood Fuse Block on page 5-95. F. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank. See Cooling System on page 5-30. G. Radiator Pressure Cap. See Radiator Pressure Cap on page 5-27. H. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir (Below Generator). See Power Steering Fluid on page 5-37. I. Electric Engine Cooling Fans. See Cooling System on page 5-30. J. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 5-15. K. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 5-15. L. Automatic Transaxle Fluid Dipstick. See “Checking the Fluid Level” under Automatic Transaxle Fluid on page 5-21. N. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid” under Brakes on page 5-39. O. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air Cleaner/ Filter on page 5-20. Engine Oil Checking Engine Oil It is a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground. The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine oil dipstick. 1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you do not do this, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level. 2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level. 5-15 When to Add Engine Oil 3.6L V6 Engine Notice: Do not add too much oil. If the engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, the engine could be damaged. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine oil ﬁll cap. Be sure to add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range in the cross-hatched area. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you are through. 3.8L V6 Engine If the oil is below the cross-hatched area at the tip of the dipstick, you will need to add at least one quart/liter of oil. But you must use the right kind. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Speciﬁcations on page 5-98. 5-16 What Kind of Engine Oil to Use These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50. Oils meeting these requirements should also have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certiﬁed by the American Petroleum Institute (API). Look for two things: (cid:127) GM6094M Your vehicle’s engine requires oil meeting GM Standard GM6094M. You should look for and use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM6094M. (cid:127) SAE 5W-30 As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. You should look for this information on the oil container, and use only those oils that are identiﬁed as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and have the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. Notice: Use only engine oil identiﬁed as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and showing the American Petroleum Institute Certiﬁed For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty. GM Goodwrench® oil meets all the requirements for your vehicle. 5-17 If you are in an area of extreme cold, where the temperature falls below −20°F (−29°C), it is recommended that you use either an SAE 5W-30 synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both will provide easier cold starting and better protection for your engine at extremely low temperatures. Engine Oil Additives Do not add anything to your oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol that meet GM Standard GM6094M are all you will need for good performance and engine protection. Engine Oil Life System When to Change Engine Oil Your vehicle has a computer system that lets you know when to change the engine oil and ﬁlter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change will be indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, you must reset the system every time the oil is changed. When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it will indicate that an oil change is necessary. A change engine oil light or, if your vehicle has the Driver Information Center (DIC), a CHANGE OIL SOON message will come on. See Change Engine Oil Light on page 3-45 or DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-57. 5-18 Change the oil as soon as possible within the next 600 miles (1 000 km). It is possible that, if you are driving under the best conditions, the oil life system may not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, the engine oil and ﬁlter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. Your dealer has GM-trained service people who will perform this work using genuine GM parts and reset the system. It is also important to check your oil regularly and keep it at the proper level. If the system is ever reset accidentally, you must change the oil at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since the last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed. How to Reset the Engine Oil Life System The Engine Oil Life System calculates when to change the engine oil and ﬁlter based on vehicle use. Anytime the oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where you change the oil prior to a change engine oil light or CHANGE OIL SOON message being turned on, reset the system. What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the ﬁlter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help. After changing the engine oil, reset the system by performing the following steps: (cid:127) Vehicles with Driver Information Center (DIC) 1. Press the option button on the DIC until ENGINE OIL MONITOR appears on the DIC screen. 2. Press the set/reset button to reset the system. The next screen indicates that the CHANGE OIL SOON message has been reset. If the vehicle has the uplevel DIC, when the gages button is pressed and the OIL LIFE REMAINING mode appears, it should read 100 percent OIL LIFE REMAINING. 3. Turn the key to OFF. (cid:127) Vehicles without Driver Information Center (DIC) 1. With the engine off, turn the ignition key to RUN. 2. Fully press and release the accelerator pedal slowly three times within ﬁve seconds. 3. Turn the key to OFF, then start the vehicle. If the light or message comes back on when you start your vehicle, the oil life system has not reset. Repeat the procedure. 5-19 Engine Air Cleaner/Filter 3.6L V6 Engine shown, 3.8L V6 Engine similar The engine air cleaner/ﬁlter is located in the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. 5-20 When to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Inspect the air cleaner/ﬁlter at the Maintenance II intervals and replace it at the ﬁrst oil change after each 50,000 mile (83 000 km) interval. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 for more information. If you are driving in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect the ﬁlter at each engine oil change. How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter To inspect the air cleaner/ﬁlter, remove the ﬁlter from the vehicle and lightly shake the ﬁlter to release loose dust and dirt. If the ﬁlter remains caked with dirt, a new ﬁlter is required. To inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter do the following: 1. Lift the ﬁlter cover tabs on top of the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter housing. 2. Push the ﬁlter cover housing toward the engine. 3. Pull out the ﬁlter. 4. Inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter. See Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 6-13. Automatic Transaxle Fluid When to Check and Change Automatic Transaxle Fluid A good time to check the automatic transaxle ﬂuid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change the ﬂuid and ﬁlter at the intervals listed in Additional Required Services on page 6-6, and be sure to use the transaxle ﬂuid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. 5. To reinstall the cover, position the tabs through the slots on the housing. A notch on the sides of the ﬁlter cover will indicate the correct engagement. 6. Push the cover tabs on top of the housing to lock the cover in place. {CAUTION: Operating the engine with the air cleaner/ﬁlter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps to stop ﬂames if the engine backﬁres. If it is not there and the engine backﬁres, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/ﬁlter off. If the air cleaner/ﬁlter is off, a backﬁre Notice: can cause a damaging engine ﬁre. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/ﬁlter in place when you are driving. 5-21 How to Check Automatic Transaxle Fluid Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick. Notice: Too much or too little ﬂuid can damage the transaxle. Too much can mean that some of the ﬂuid could come out and fall on hot engine or exhaust system parts, starting a ﬁre. Too little ﬂuid could cause the transaxle to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check the transaxle ﬂuid. Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transaxle ﬂuid level if you have been driving: (cid:127) When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C). (cid:127) At high speed for quite a while. In heavy traffic — especially in hot weather. (cid:127) While pulling a trailer. To get the right reading, the ﬂuid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), you may have to drive longer. Checking the Fluid Level Prepare the vehicle as follows: 1. Park the vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine running. 2. With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever in PARK (P). 3. With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear, pausing for about three seconds in each one. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P). 4. Let the engine run at idle for three to ﬁve minutes. 5-22 (cid:127) Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps: The transaxle ﬂuid dipstick handle has this symbol on it, and is located near the rear of the engine compartment. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. 1. Pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel. 2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and then pull it back out again. 3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower level. The ﬂuid level must be in the crosshatched area. 4. If the ﬂuid level is in the acceptable range, push the dipstick back in all the way. How to Add Automatic Transaxle Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transaxle ﬂuid to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. If the ﬂuid level is low, add only enough of the proper ﬂuid to bring the level into the crosshatched area on the dipstick. 1. Pull out the dipstick. 2. Using a long-neck funnel, add enough ﬂuid at the dipstick hole to bring it to the proper level. It does not take much ﬂuid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Do not overﬁll. Notice: Use of the incorrect automatic transaxle ﬂuid may damage your vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use the automatic transaxle ﬂuid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. 3. After adding ﬂuid, recheck the ﬂuid level as described under “How to Check Automatic Transaxle Fluid,” earlier in this section. 4. When the correct ﬂuid level is obtained, push the dipstick back in all the way. 5-23 Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at the ﬁrst maintenance service after each 25,000 miles (41 500 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs ﬁrst. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle. What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL® engine coolant which will not damage aluminum parts. If this coolant mixture is used, nothing else needs to be added. Engine Coolant The cooling system in the vehicle is ﬁlled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in the vehicle for ﬁve years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs ﬁrst, if only DEX-COOL® extended life coolant is added. The following explains the cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If there is a problem with engine overheating or if coolant needs to be added to the radiator, see Engine Overheating on page 5-27. A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® engine coolant will: (cid:127) Give freezing protection down to −34°F (−37°C). (cid:127) Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C). (cid:127) Protect against rust and corrosion. (cid:127) Help keep the proper engine temperature. Let the warning lights and gages work as they should. 5-24 (cid:127) {CAUTION: Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch ﬁre and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant. If you use an improper coolant mixture, Notice: your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. If coolant needs to be added more than four times a year, have your dealer check the cooling system. Notice: in your vehicle’s cooling system, you could damage your vehicle. Use only the proper mixture of the engine coolant listed in this manual for the cooling system. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12 for more information. If you use extra inhibitors and/or additives 5-25 Adding Coolant If more coolant is needed, add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture at the coolant recovery tank, but be careful not to spill it. If the coolant recovery tank is completely empty, add coolant to the radiator. See Engine Overheating on page 5-27. {CAUTION: Turning the radiator pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. With the coolant recovery tank, you will almost never have to add coolant at the radiator. Never turn the radiator pressure cap — even a little — when the engine and radiator are hot. Checking Coolant The coolant recovery tank is located in the engine compartment toward the rear of the engine on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. 3.8L V6 Engine shown, 3.6L V6 Engine similar The vehicle must be on a level surface when checking the coolant level. When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the cold ﬁll line or a little higher. The cold ﬁll line is near the bottom of the surge tank and has an arrow pointing down at it. 5-26 Engine Overheating There is a coolant temperature gage and a warning light on the instrument panel cluster that indicate an overheated engine condition. See Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 3-40 and Engine Coolant Temperature Warning Light on page 3-40 for more information. In addition, if your vehicle is equipped with a Driver Information Center (DIC), you will ﬁnd an ENGINE COOLANT HOT and a REDUCED POWER STOP WHEN SAFE message displayed on the DIC. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-57 for more information. {CAUTION: You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine. If the pressure cap is not tightly installed, Occasionally check the coolant level in the radiator. For information on how to add coolant to the radiator, see Cooling System on page 5-30. Radiator Pressure Cap Notice: coolant loss and possible engine damage may occur. Be sure the cap is properly and tightly secured. The radiator pressure cap is located in the front of the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. 5-27 If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine {CAUTION: Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch ﬁre. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 5-29 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency. If your engine catches ﬁre because you Notice: keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 5-29 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency. If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine If you get an engine overheat warning, but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: (cid:127) Climb a long hill on a hot day. (cid:127) Stop after high-speed driving. Idle for long periods in traffic. Tow a trailer. 5-28 (cid:127) (cid:127) If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in NEUTRAL (N) while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) and let the engine idle. 2. Set the climate controls to the highest heat setting and fan speed and open the windows as necessary. If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning does not come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues and you have not stopped, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there is still no sign of steam, you can idle the engine for three minutes while you are parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. Also, see “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” later in this section. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away. Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode This emergency operating mode allows your vehicle to be driven to a safe place in an emergency situation. If an overheated engine condition exists, an overheat protection mode which alternates ﬁring groups of cylinders helps prevent engine damage. In this mode, you will notice a signiﬁcant loss in power and engine performance. The REDUCED POWER STOP WHEN SAFE message will come on in the Driver Information Center (DIC), along with the engine coolant temperature warning light on the instrument panel, to indicate the vehicle has entered overheated engine protection operating mode. The temperature gage will also indicate an overheat condition exists. Driving extended miles (km) and/or towing a trailer in the overheat protection mode should be avoided. Notice: After driving in the overheated engine protection operating mode, to avoid engine damage, allow the engine to cool before attempting any repair. The engine oil will be severely degraded. Repair the cause of coolant loss, change the oil and reset the oil life system. See Engine Oil on page 5-15. 5-29 Cooling System When you decide it is safe to lift the hood, here is what you will see: 3.8L V6 Engine A. Coolant Recovery Tank B. Radiator Pressure Cap C. Electric Engine Cooling Fans 5-30 3.6L V6 Engine A. Coolant Recovery Tank B. Pressure Cap C. Electric Engine Cooling Fans {CAUTION: An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan. If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface. When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be at or above the cold ﬁll line on the coolant recovery tank. If it is not, there may be a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump, or somewhere else in the cooling system. {CAUTION: Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine ﬁre, and you could be burned. Get any leak ﬁxed before you drive the vehicle. If there seems to be no leak, with the engine on, check to see if the electric engine cooling fans are running. If the engine is overheating, the fans should be running. If the fans are not running, the vehicle needs service. Notice: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant is not covered by your warranty. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 5-29 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs ﬁrst. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle. 5-31 How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Recovery Tank {CAUTION: Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch ﬁre and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant. If you have not found a problem yet, but the coolant level is not at the cold ﬁll line, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® engine coolant at the coolant recovery tank. See Engine Coolant on page 5-24 for more information. Notice: the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture. In cold weather, water can freeze and crack {CAUTION: You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine. When the coolant level in the coolant recovery tank is at the cold ﬁll line, start the vehicle. 5-32 If the overheat warning continues, there is one more thing you can try. You can add the proper coolant mixture directly to the radiator, but be sure the system is cool before you do it. {CAUTION: Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the radiator pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and radiator pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap. How to Add Coolant to the Radiator (3.8L V6 Engine) Notice: Your engine has a speciﬁc radiator ﬁll procedure. Failure to follow this procedure could cause your engine to overheat and be severely damaged. 1. You can remove the radiator pressure cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise until it ﬁrst stops. Do not press down while turning the pressure cap. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left. 2. Then keep turning the pressure cap, but now push down as you turn it. Remove the pressure cap. 5-33 3. Open the coolant air bleed valve located on the thermostat housing near the heater hose. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. 4. Fill the radiator with the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture, up to the base of the ﬁller neck. See Engine Coolant on page 5-24 for more information about the proper coolant mixture. If you see a stream of coolant coming from the air bleed valve, close the valve. Otherwise, close the valve after the radiator is ﬁlled. 5. Rinse or wipe any spilled coolant from the engine and the compartment. 6. Then ﬁll the coolant recovery tank to the cold ﬁll line. 7. Put the cap back on the coolant recovery tank, but leave the radiator pressure cap off. 5-34 8. Start the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fans. 9. By this time, the coolant level inside the radiator ﬁller neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture through the ﬁller neck until the level reaches the base of the ﬁller neck. 10. Then replace the radiator pressure cap. At any time during this procedure if coolant begins to ﬂow out of the ﬁller neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure the pressure cap is hand-tight and fully seated. 11. Check the coolant in the recovery tank. The level in the coolant recovery tank should be at the cold ﬁll line when the engine is cold. 5-35 {CAUTION: You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine. 3. Fill the cooling system with the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture, up to the base of the ﬁller neck. See Engine Coolant on page 5-24 for more information about the proper coolant mixture. 4. Rinse or wipe any spilled coolant from the engine and the compartment. How to Add Coolant to the Cooling System (3.6L V6 Engine) Notice: Your engine has a speciﬁc cooling system drain and ﬁll procedure. Failure to follow this procedure could cause your engine to overheat and be severely damaged. If your engine’s cooling system needs to be drained and re-ﬁlled, please see your dealer. 1. You can remove the pressure cap when the cooling system, including the pressure cap and upper radiator hose is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means that there is still some pressure left. 2. Then keep turning the pressure cap and remove it. 5-36 Power Steering Fluid See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for reservoir location. 5. Then ﬁll the coolant recovery tank to the cold ﬁll line. 6. Reinstall the coolant recovery tank cap and the pressure cap. 7. If the coolant in the recovery tank is constantly low, you should have your dealership service department inspect the vehicle for leaks. When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering ﬂuid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A ﬂuid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. 5-37 How to Check Power Steering Fluid To check the power steering ﬂuid, do the following: 1. Turn the key off and let the engine compartment cool down. 2. Wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean. 3. Unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. 4. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. 5. Remove the cap again and look at the ﬂuid level on the dipstick. If your vehicle has the 3.8L V6 engine, the ﬂuid level should be between the ADD and HOT marks when the engine is cold, and at the HOT mark when the engine is hot. If the ﬂuid is at the ADD mark when the engine is cold or hot, power steering ﬂuid should be added. If your vehicle has the 3.6L V6 engine, the ﬂuid level should be between the Min (Minimum) and Max (Maximum) marks when the engine is cold, and at the Max mark when the engine is hot. If the ﬂuid is at the Min mark when the engine is cold or hot, power steering ﬂuid should be added. What to Use To determine what kind of ﬂuid to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. Always use the proper ﬂuid. Failure to use the proper ﬂuid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals. Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer ﬂuid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a ﬂuid that has sufficient protection against freezing. Adding Washer Fluid When the windshield washer ﬂuid is low, a low washer ﬂuid light may appear on the instrument panel cluster. See Low Washer Fluid Warning Light on page 3-47 for more information. In addition, if your vehicle is equipped with a Driver Information Center (DIC), the LOW WASHER FLUID message will appear when the ﬂuid level is low. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-57 for more information. 5-38 Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer ﬂuid until the tank is full. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for reservoir location. Brakes Brake Fluid Your brake master cylinder reservoir is ﬁlled with DOT-3 brake ﬂuid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the reservoir. Notice: (cid:127) When using concentrated washer ﬂuid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water. (cid:127) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer ﬂuid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer ﬂuid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer ﬂuid. Fill your washer ﬂuid tank only three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full. (cid:127) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint. There are only two reasons why the brake ﬂuid level in the reservoir might go down. The ﬁrst is that the brake ﬂuid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the ﬂuid level goes back up. The other reason is that ﬂuid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system ﬁxed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes will not work well, or will not work at all. 5-39 (cid:127) So, it is not a good idea to top off your brake ﬂuid. Adding brake ﬂuid will not correct a leak. If you add ﬂuid when your linings are worn, then you will have too much ﬂuid when you get new brake linings. You should add or remove brake ﬂuid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. {CAUTION: If you have too much brake ﬂuid, it can spill on the engine. The ﬂuid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake ﬂuid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. When your brake ﬂuid falls to a low level, your brake warning light will come on. See Brake System Warning Light on page 3-38. What to Add When you do need brake ﬂuid, use only DOT-3 brake ﬂuid. Use new brake ﬂuid from a sealed container only. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. 5-40 Always clean the brake ﬂuid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir. {CAUTION: With the wrong kind of ﬂuid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake ﬂuid. Notice: (cid:127) Using the wrong ﬂuid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of ﬂuid. If you spill brake ﬂuid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint ﬁnish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake ﬂuid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-87. (cid:127) Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM torque speciﬁcations. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you apply the brakes, with or without the vehicle moving, your brakes adjust for wear. Brake Wear Your vehicle has four-wheel disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving, except when you are pushing on the brake pedal ﬁrmly. {CAUTION: The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced. Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair. Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are ﬁrst applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. 5-41 Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system — for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you do not, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance you have come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts. Battery Your vehicle has a maintenance free battery. When it is time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco® replacement battery. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for battery location. Warning: Battery posts, terminals, and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling. 5-42 If the battery has a very low charge or is dead, you may not be able to remove the ignition key from the ignition switch or shift out of PARK (P). Refer to Shifting Out of Park (P) on page 2-32. Vehicle Storage If you are not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery. This will help keep the battery from running down. {CAUTION: Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 5-42 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt. Jump Starting If your vehicle’s battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely. {CAUTION: Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because: (cid:127) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:127) They contain gas that can explode or (cid:127) They contain enough electricity to ignite. burn you. If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you. Ignoring these steps could result in costly Notice: damage to your vehicle that would not be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage your vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt battery with a negative ground system. If the other vehicle’s system is not a 12-volt Notice: system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake ﬁrmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transaxle in PARK (P) or a manual transaxle in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake. If you leave your radio or other accessories Notice: on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and other accessories when jump starting your vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or the accessory power outlets. Turn off the radio and all lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save the radio! 5-43 4. Open the hood on the other vehicle and locate the positive (+) and negative (−) terminal locations on that vehicle. You will not use your vehicle’s battery for jump starting. It has a remote positive (+) jump starting terminal, located on the underhood fuse block, for that purpose. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. {CAUTION: An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan. To uncover the remote positive (+) terminal, press the tab at the bottom of the fuse block and lift the cover up. {CAUTION: Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running. 3.8L V6 Engine shown, 3.6L V6 Engine similar Always use the remote positive (+) terminal instead of the positive (+) terminal on the battery. 5-44 {CAUTION: Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a ﬂashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has ﬁller caps, be sure the right amount of ﬂuid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that ﬁrst. If you do not, explosive gas could be present. Battery ﬂuid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, ﬂush the place with water and get medical help immediately. 5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. If you connect a negative cable to the ECM, Notice: ECM mounting bracket or any cables that attach to the ECM bracket, you may damage the ECM. Attach the negative cable to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part, other than the ECM, ECM bracket or cables attached to the ECM bracket. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−), or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks. 5-45 8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal location on the vehicle with the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (–) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery. 9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable at least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less. 10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run the engine for a while. 11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery. If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service. 3.8L V6 Engine shown, 3.6L V6 Engine similar 6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal location on the vehicle with the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. 7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal location on the vehicle with the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. 5-46 If the jumper cables are connected or Notice: removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always connect and remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal. To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the vehicle that had the dead battery. 2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the vehicle with the good battery. 3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the vehicle with the good battery. 4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other vehicle. 5. Return the fuse block cover to its original position. Jumper Cable Removal A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or Remote Negative (−) Terminal B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and Remote Negative (−) Terminals C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal 5-47 Headlamp Aiming The vehicle has a visual optical headlamp aiming system. The aim has been preset at the factory and should need no further adjustment However, If the vehicle is damaged in an accident, the headlamp aim may be affected and adjustment may be necessary. If oncoming vehicles ﬂash their high beams at you, this may also mean the vertical aim needs to be adjusted. It is recommended that the vehicle is taken to your dealer for service if the headlamps need to be re-aimed. It is possible however, to re-aim the headlamps as described in the following procedure. The vehicle should be properly prepared as follows: The vehicle should be placed so the headlamps are 25 ft. (7.6 m) from a light colored wall or other ﬂat surface. The vehicle must have all four tires on a perfectly level surface which is level all the way to the wall or other ﬂat surface. The vehicle should be placed so it is perpendicular to the wall or other ﬂat surface. The vehicle should not have any snow, ice or mud on it. The vehicle should be fully assembled and all other work stopped while headlamp aiming is being done. The vehicle should be normally loaded with a full tank of fuel and one person or 160 lbs (75 kg) on the driver’s seat. Tires should be properly inﬂated. Headlamp aiming is done with the vehicle’s low-beam headlamps. The high-beam headlamps will be correctly aimed if the low-beam headlamps are aimed properly. 5-48 (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) The vertical headlamp aiming screws are located under the hood near the headlamps. To adjust the vertical aim on the headlamps, do the following: 1. Find the aim dot on the lens of the low-beam lamp. 2. Measure the distance from the ground to the aim dot on the lamp. Record the distance. The adjustment screw can be turned with a 6 mm male hex. 5-49 3. At the wall or other ﬂat surface, measure from the ground upward the recorded distance from Step 2 and draw or tape a horizontal line the width of the vehicle. Notice: Do not cover a headlamp to improve beam cut-off when aiming. Covering a headlamp may cause excessive heat build-up which may cause damage to the headlamp. 4. Turn on the low-beam headlamps and place a piece of cardboard or equivalent in front of the headlamp not being aimed. This should allow only the beam of light from the headlamp being aimed to be seen on the ﬂat surface. 5. Turn the vertical aiming screw until the headlamp beam is aimed to the horizontal tape line. The top edge of the cut-off should be positioned at the bottom edge of the horizontal tape line. 6. Repeat Steps 4 and 5 for the opposite headlamp. 5-50 Headlamps and Sidemarker Lamps Bulb Replacement For the proper type of replacement bulbs, see Replacement Bulbs on page 5-56. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer. Halogen Bulbs {CAUTION: Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package. A. Sidemarker Lamp B. Low-Beam Headlamp C. High-Beam Headlamp 5-51 Low-Beam Headlamp and Sidemarker Bulbs To replace a low-beam headlamp or sidemarker bulb, do the following: 1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on page 5-11 for more information. 2. Remove the fastener from the front fascia. The fastener is located inboard of the headlamp assembly, near the high-beam headlamp. 5-52 3. Pull up on the plastic retaining clip (C) while pushing rearward on the headlamp. Align the square cut-out on the retaining clip with the notch on the headlamp. 4. Remove the screw (A) from the metal headlamp retainer to pull up and release the headlamp assembly. 5. Remove the push pin (B) retaining the front fascia. 6. Pull back on the front fascia and then pull the headlamp assembly out from the vehicle. Moving the headlamp up and down slightly may help with its removal. You may have someone assist you with this step. 7. Remove the access cover from behind the bulb being replaced. 8. Turn the bulb socket one-quarter of a turn to remove it from the headlamp assembly. 9. Holding the base of the socket, pull the old bulb from the socket. 10. Replace with a new bulb. 11. Reverse all the steps to reassemble the headlamp assembly. When replacing the plastic retaining clip, push down on it while pushing rearward on the headlamp, making sure the headlamp assembly is secure. High-Beam Headlamp Bulbs To replace the high-beam headlamp bulb, do the following: 1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on page 5-11 for more information. 2. Locate the high-beam headlamp bulb socket. 3. Remove the access cover from behind the bulb being replaced. 4. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and pull it from the headlamp assembly. 5. Holding the base of the socket, pull the old bulb from the socket. 6. Replace with a new bulb. 7. Reverse Steps 2 through 4 to reinstall. Front Turn Signal and Parking Lamps To replace a front turn signal/parking lamp bulb in the front fascia, do the following: 1. Locate the front turn signal/parking bulb socket by reaching behind the front bumper. 2. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and pull it out of the assembly. 3. Holding the base of the socket, pull the old bulb from the socket. 4. Push the new bulb into the socket. 5. Reverse Steps 1 through 3 to reinstall. 5-53 Taillamps, Turn Signal, Sidemarker, Stoplamps and Back-up Lamps To replace a taillamp, turn signal, sidemarker, stoplamp or back-up lamp bulb, do the following: 1. Open the trunk. See Trunk on page 2-13 for more information. 2. Remove the convenience net if the vehicle has one. 5-54 3. Remove the four plastic wing nuts retaining the trunk trim. There are two wing nuts located on the driver’s side (shown) and two located on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. 4. Pull back the trunk trim. 5. Remove the two wing nuts holding the taillamp assembly in place. 6. Pull out the taillamp assembly and disconnect the wiring harness. A. Taillamp B. Back-up C. Taillamp D. Stoplamp/Taillamp/ Turn Signal E. Sidemarker 7. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise to remove it. 8. Replace with a new bulb. 9. Turn the bulb socket clockwise to reinstall. 10. Reverse these steps to reinstall the taillamp assembly. 5-55 Replacement Bulbs Exterior Lamps Bulb Number Back-Up Lamps Fog Lamp Front Turn Signal and Parking Lamps Headlamps High-Beam Low-Beam Front/Rear Sidemarker and Taillamp Stoplamps and Taillamps 921 H11 3157NAK H9 H11 194 3057 For replacement bulbs not listed here, contact your dealer. Windshield Replacement Your vehicle is equipped with an acoustic windshield. If you ever have to have your windshield replaced be sure to get an acoustic windshield so you will continue to have the beneﬁts an acoustic windshield can provide. Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected for wear or cracking. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 for more information on wiper blade inspection. Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. For the proper type and length, see Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 6-13. Here’s how to remove the wiper blade: 1. Pull the windshield wiper arm connector away from the windshield. 5-56 2. While holding the wiper arm, pull the clip up from the blade connecting point, and pull the blade assembly down toward the windshield to remove it from the wiper arm. 3. Install the new wiper blade onto the wiper arm and snap the clip into place. Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your GM Warranty booklet for details. For additional information refer to the tire manufacturer’s booklet included with your vehicle’s Owner Manual. {CAUTION: Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous. (cid:127) Overloading your tires can cause overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31. (cid:127) Underinﬂated tires pose the same danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold. See Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-63. (cid:127) Overinﬂated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured, or broken by a sudden impact — such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure. (cid:127) Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If your tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them. 5-57 Tire Sidewall Labeling Useful information about a tire is molded into its sidewall. The examples below show a typical passenger vehicle tire and a compact spare tire sidewall. Passenger (P-Metric) Tire Example (A) Tire Size: The tire size is a combination of letters and numbers used to deﬁne a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type, and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail. 5-58 (B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Speciﬁcation): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s speciﬁc tire performance criteria have a TPC speciﬁcation code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC speciﬁcations meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines. (C) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards. (D) Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT (Department of Transportation) code is the Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (E) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (F) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction, and temperature resistance. For more information see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-68. (G) Maximum Cold Inﬂation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. (B) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (C) Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following the DOT (Department of Transportation) code is the Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (D) Maximum Cold Inﬂation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. (E) Tire Inﬂation: The temporary use tire or compact spare tire should be inﬂated to 60 psi (420 kPa). For more information on tire pressure and inﬂation see Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-63. (F) Tire Size: A combination of letters and numbers deﬁne a tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type and service description. The letter T as the ﬁrst character in the tire size means the tire is for temporary use only. (G) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Speciﬁcation): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s speciﬁc tire performance criteria have a TPC speciﬁcation code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC speciﬁcations meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines. 5-59 Compact Spare Tire Example (A) Temporary Use Only: The compact spare tire or temporary use tire has a tread life of approximately 3,000 miles (5 000 km) and should not be driven at speeds over 65 mph (105 km/h). The compact spare tire is for emergency use when a regular road tire has lost air and gone ﬂat. If your vehicle has a compact spare tire, see Compact Spare Tire on page 5-83 and If a Tire Goes Flat on page 5-72. Tire Size The following illustration shows an example of a typical passenger vehicle tire size. (A) Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter P as the ﬁrst character in the tire size means a passenger vehicle tire engineered to standards set by the U.S. Tire and Rim Association. (B) Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall. (C) Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is 60, as shown in item C of the illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is 60 percent as high as it is wide. 5-60 (D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter R means radial ply construction; the letter D means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter B means belted-bias ply construction. (E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches. (F) Service Description: These characters represent the load range and speed rating of the tire. The load index represents the load carry capacity a tire is certiﬁed to carry. The load index can range from 1 to 279. The speed rating is the maximum speed a tire is certiﬁed to carry a load. Speed ratings range from A to Z. Tire Terminology and Deﬁnitions Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa). Accessory Weight: This means the combined weight of optional accessories. Some examples of optional accessories are, automatic transmission, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air conditioning. Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire’s height to its width. Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials. Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim. Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the plies are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. Cold Inﬂation Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up heat from driving. See Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-63. Curb Weight: This means the weight of a motor vehicle with standard and optional equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil and coolant, but without passengers and cargo. DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand and date of production. GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31. GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front axle, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31. GAWR RR: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31. Intended Outboard Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire, that must always face outward when mounted on a vehicle. Kilopascal (kPa): The metric unit for air pressure. Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: A tire used on light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles. Load Index: An assigned number ranging from 1 to 279 that corresponds to the load carrying capacity of a tire. Maximum Inﬂation Pressure: The maximum air pressure to which a cold tire may be inﬂated. The maximum air pressure is molded onto the sidewall. Maximum Load Rating: The load rating for a tire at the maximum permissible inﬂation pressure for that tire. Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight: The sum of curb weight; accessory weight; vehicle capacity weight; and production options weight. Normal Occupant Weight: The number of occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31. 5-61 Occupant Distribution: Designated seating positions. Outward Facing Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that faces outward when mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears white lettering, or bears manufacturer, brand, and/or model name molding that is higher or deeper than the same moldings on the other sidewall of the tire. Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: A tire used on passenger cars and some light duty trucks and multipurpose vehicles. Recommended Inﬂation Pressure: Vehicle manufacturer’s recommended tire inﬂation pressure and shown on the tire placard. See Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-63 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31. Radial Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. Rim: A metal support for a tire and upon which the tire beads are seated. Sidewall: The portion of a tire between the tread and the bead. Speed Rating: An alphanumeric code assigned to a tire indicating the maximum speed at which a tire can operate. 5-62 Traction: The friction between the tire and the road surface. The amount of grip provided. Tread: The portion of a tire that comes into contact with the road. Treadwear Indicators: Narrow bands, sometimes called wear bars, that show across the tread of a tire when only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) of tread remains. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-66. UTQGS (Uniform Tire Quality Grading Standards): A tire information system that provides consumers with ratings for a tire’s traction, temperature, and treadwear. Ratings are determined by tire manufacturers using government testing procedures. The ratings are molded into the sidewall of the tire. See Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-68. Vehicle Capacity Weight: The number of designated seating positions multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg) plus the rated cargo load. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31. Vehicle Maximum Load on the Tire: Load on an individual tire due to curb weight, accessory weight, occupant weight, and cargo weight. Vehicle Placard: A label permanently attached to a vehicle showing the vehicle’s capacity weight and the original equipment tire size and recommended inﬂation pressure. See “Tire and Loading Information Label” under Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31. Inﬂation - Tire Pressure Tires need the correct amount of air pressure to operate effectively. Notice: Do not let anyone tell you that under-inﬂation or over-inﬂation is all right. It is not. If your tires do not have enough air (under-inﬂation), you can get the following: Too much ﬂexing Too much heat Tire overloading (cid:127) Premature or irregular wear

Boost Classifieds - Car Advice, Reviews, Events & Classifieds

2006 Buick Lacrosse Owners Manual