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XM™ Radio eight-digit radio ID label. This label is needed to activate the service. If this message is received when tuned to channel 0, there may be a receiver fault. Consult with your GM dealer.


If this message does not clear within a short period of time, the receiver may have a fault. Consult with your GM dealer.


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Playing a CD If the ignition or radio is turned off, with a CD in the player, it will stay in the player. When the ignition or radio is turned on, the CD will start playing where it stopped, if it was the last selected audio source. When a CD is inserted, the CD symbol will appear on the CD. As each new track starts to play, the track number will appear on the display. The CD player can play the smaller 3 inch (8 cm) single CDs with an adapter ring. Full-size CDs and the smaller CDs are loaded in the same manner. If playing a CD-R, the sound quality may be reduced due to CD-R quality, the method of recording, the quality of the music that has been recorded, and the way the CD-R has been handled. There may be an increase in skipping, difficulty in finding tracks, and/or difficulty in loading and ejecting. If these problems occur, check the bottom surface of the CD. If the surface of the CD is damaged, such as cracked, broken, or scratched, the CD will not play properly. If the surface of the CD is soiled, see Care of Your CDs on page 3-126 for more information. If there is no apparent damage, try a known good CD.


If you add any label to a CD, insert more


Do not add any label to a CD, it could get caught in the CD player. If a CD is recorded on a personal computer and a description label is needed, try labeling the top of the recorded CD with a marking pen instead. Notice: than one CD into the slot at a time, or attempt to play scratched or damaged CDs, you could damage the CD player. When using the CD player, use only CDs in good condition without any label, load one CD at a time, and keep the CD player and the loading slot free of foreign materials, liquids, and debris. If an error appears on the display, see “CD Messages” later in this section.


LOAD: Press this button to load CDs into the CD player. This CD player will hold up to six CDs. To insert one CD, do the following: 1. Turn the ignition on. 2. Press and release the LOAD button. 3. Wait for the indicator light, located to the right of


the slot, to turn green.


4. Load a CD. Insert the CD partway into the slot,


label side up. The player will pull the CD in.


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To insert multiple CDs, do the following: 1. Turn the ignition on. 2. Press and hold the LOAD button for two seconds.


You will hear a beep and the indicator light, located to the right of the slot, will begin to flash and MULTI LOAD # will appear on the display.


3. Once the light stops flashing and turns green, INSERT CD # will appear on the display, load a CD. Insert the CD partway into the slot, label side up. The player will pull the CD in. Once the CD is loaded, the indicator light will begin flashing again. Once the light stops flashing and turns green, you can load another CD. The CD player takes up to six CDs. Do not try to load more than six.


To load more than one CD but less than six, complete Steps 1 through 3. When finished loading CDs, press the LOAD button to cancel the loading function. The radio will begin to play the last CD loaded. If more than one CD has been loaded, a number for each CD will appear on the display.


Playing a Specific Loaded CD For every CD loaded, a number will appear on the display. To play a specific CD, press the numbered pushbutton that corresponds to the CD. A small bar will appear under the CD number that is playing and the track number will appear on the display. If an error appears on the display, see “CD Messages” later in this section. Z (Eject): Press this button to eject CD(s). To eject the CD that is currently playing, press and release this button. To eject multiple CDs, do the following: 1. Press and hold the CD eject button for two seconds. You will hear a beep and the indicator light, located to the right of the slot, will begin to flash and EJECT ALL will appear on the display.


2. Once the light stops flashing, REMOVE CD # will appear on the display. The CD will eject and can be removed. Once the CD is removed, the indicator light will begin flashing again and another CD will eject. To stop ejecting the CDs, press the LOAD or the eject button.


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If the CD is not removed, after 25 seconds, the CD will be automatically pulled back into the player. If CD is pushed back into the player, before the 25 second time period is complete, the player will sense an error and will try to eject the CD several times before stopping. Do not repeatedly press the CD eject button to eject a CD after you have tried to push it in manually. The player’s 25-second eject timer will reset at each press of eject, causing the player to not eject the CD until the 25-second time period has elapsed. s (Reverse): Press this button to reverse within the current track. \ (Fast Forward): Press this button to fast forward within the current track.


N (Repeat): With repeat, one track or an entire CD can be repeated.


To use repeat, do the following:


To repeat the track you are listening to, press and release the repeat button. RPT # will appear on the display. Press this button again to turn off repeat play. To repeat the CD you are listening to, press and hold the repeat button for two seconds. REPEAT CD # will appear on the display. Press this button again to turn off repeat play.


RDM (Random): With random, you can listen to the tracks in random, rather than sequential, order, on one CD or on all of the CDs. To use random, do one of the following:


To play the tracks on the CD you are listening to in random order, press and release the random button. RANDOM ONE will appear on the display. Press this button again to turn off random play. To play the tracks on all of the CDs that are loaded in random order, press and hold this button for more than two seconds. You will hear a beep and RANDOM ALL will appear on the display. Press this button again to turn off random play.


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(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) o SEEK p: Press the left arrow to go to the start of the current track, if more than ten seconds have played. Press the right arrow to go to the next track. If either arrow is held or pressed more than once, the player will continue moving backward or forward through the CD.


To scan one CD, press and hold either SEEK arrow for more than two seconds until TRACK SCAN appears on the display and you hear a beep. The radio will go to the next track, play for 10 seconds, then go on to the next track. Press either SEEK arrow again, to stop scanning.


To scan all loaded CDs, press and hold either SEEK arrow for more than four seconds until ALL CD SCAN appears on the display and you hear a beep. Use this feature to listen to 10 seconds of the first track of each loaded CD. Press either SEEK arrow again, to stop scanning.


DISP (Display): Press this knob to see how long the current track has been playing. The elapsed time of the track will appear on the display. To change the default on the display, track or elapsed time, press this knob until you see the display you want, then hold the knob for two seconds. The radio will produce one beep and the selected display will now be the default.


BAND: Press this button to listen to the radio when a CD is playing. The inactive CD(s) will remain safely inside the radio for future listening.


CD: Press this button to play a CD when listening to the radio. The CD symbol will appear on the display when a CD is loaded.


EQ (Equalization): Press EQ to select an equalization setting while playing a CD. The equalization will be set whenever a CD is played. See “EQ” listed previously for more information. If you select an EQ setting for your CD, it will be activated each time you play a CD.


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Using List Mode The six-disc CD changer has a feature called song list. This feature is capable of saving 20 track selections. To save tracks into the song list feature, perform the following steps: 1. Turn the CD player on and load it with at least


one CD. See “LOAD” listed previously in this section for more information.


2. Check to see that the CD changer is not in song list mode. LIST should not appear on the display. If LIST is present, press the LIST button to turn it off.


3. Select the desired CD by pressing the numbered


pushbutton and then use the SEEK right arrow to locate the track to be saved. The track will begin to play.


4. Press and hold the LIST button to save the track


into memory. When LIST is pressed, one beep will be heard immediately. After two seconds of continuously pressing the LIST button, TRACK ADD will appear on the display and two beeps will sound to confirm the track has been saved.


5. Repeat Steps 3 and 4 for saving other selections. S-LIST FULL will appear on the display if you try to save more than 20 selections.


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To play the song list, press the LIST button. One beep will be heard and S-LIST will appear on the display. The recorded tracks will begin to play in the order they were saved. Seek through the song list by using the SEEK arrows. Seeking past the last saved track will return to the first saved track. To delete tracks from the song list, perform the following steps: 1. Turn the CD player on. 2. Press the LIST button to turn song list on.


LIST will appear on the display.


3. Press either SEEK arrow to select the desired


track to be deleted.


4. Press and hold the LIST button for two seconds.


When LIST is pressed, one beep will be heard immediately. After two seconds of continuously pressing the LIST button, TRACK DELETE will appear on the display and two beeps will be heard to confirm that the track has been deleted. After a track has been deleted, the remaining tracks are moved up the list. When another track is added to the song list, the track will be added to the end of the list.


To delete the entire song list, perform the following steps: 1. Turn the CD player on. 2. Press the LIST button to turn song list on.


LIST will appear on the display.


3. Press and hold the LIST button for more than


four seconds. One beep will be heard, followed by two beeps after two seconds, and a final beep will be heard after four seconds. LIST EMPTY will appear on the display indicating the song list has been deleted.


If a CD is ejected, and the song list contains saved tracks from that CD, those tracks are automatically deleted from the song list. Any tracks saved to the song list again are added to the bottom of the list. To end song list mode, press the LIST button. One beep will be heard and LIST will be removed from the display.


CD Messages


CHECK CD: If this message appears on the display and/or the CD comes out, it could be for one of the following reasons:


It is very hot. When the temperature returns to normal, the CD should play.


(cid:127) You are driving on a very rough road. When the


road becomes smoother, the CD should play. The CD is dirty, scratched, wet, or upside down. The air is very humid. If so, wait about an hour and try again. There may have been a problem while burning the CD. The label may be caught in the CD player.


If the CD is not playing correctly, for any other reason, try a known good CD. If any error occurs repeatedly or if an error cannot be corrected, contact your GM dealer. If the radio displays an error message, write it down and provide it to your GM dealer when reporting the problem.


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(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) Audio Steering Wheel Controls


Theft-Deterrent Feature THEFTLOCK® is designed to discourage theft of your vehicle’s radio. The feature works automatically by learning a portion of the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). If the radio is moved to a different vehicle, it will not operate and LOC or LOCKED will appear on the display. With THEFTLOCK® activated, the radio will not operate if stolen.


If your vehicle has this feature, some audio functions can be adjusted at the steering wheel. They include the following: p SEEK o: Press and release the right or the left arrow to go to the next or to the previous station and stay there.


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To scan stations, press and hold either arrow for more than two seconds. SCAN will appear on the display and the radio will produce one beep. The radio will go to a station, play for a few seconds, then go on to the next station. Press either arrow again or one of the pushbuttons to stop scanning presets.


To scan preset stations, press and hold either arrow for more than four seconds. PSCAN will appear on the display and the radio will produce two beeps. The radio will go to a preset station, play for a few seconds, then go on to the next preset station. Press either arrow again or one of the pushbuttons to stop scanning presets.


The radio will only seek and scan stations with a strong signal that are in the selected band.


When a CD is playing, press the right or the left arrow to go to the next or the previous track.


BAND: Press this button to switch between FM1, FM2, or AM, or XM1 or XM2 (if equipped).


When a CD is playing, press this button to listen to the radio. The inactive CD will remain safely inside the radio for future listening.


1 – 6 (Preset Stations): Press this button to go to the next station that is programmed on the radio preset pushbuttons.


> (Mute/OnStar®): Press and release this button to silence the audio system. Press it again, or any other radio button, to turn on the sound.


If your vehicle is equipped with OnStar, press and hold this button for two seconds to interact with the OnStar system. See the OnStar® System on page 2-38 in this manual for more information. wx x (Volume): Press the up or the down arrow to increase or to decrease the volume.


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Radio Reception You may experience frequency interference and static during normal radio reception if items such as cellphone chargers, vehicle convenience accessories, and external electronic devices are plugged into the accessory power outlet. If there is interference or static, unplug the item from the accessory power outlet. AM The range for most AM stations is greater than for FM, especially at night. The longer range can cause station frequencies to interfere with each other. For better radio reception, most AM radio stations will boost the power levels during the day, and then reduce these levels during the night. Static can also occur when things like storms and power lines interfere with radio reception. When this happens, try reducing the treble on your radio. FM Stereo FM stereo will give the best sound, but FM signals will reach only about 10 to 40 miles (16 to 65 km). Tall buildings or hills can interfere with FM signals, causing the sound to fade in and out.


XM™ Satellite Radio Service XM™ Satellite Radio Service gives digital radio reception from coast-to-coast in the 48 contiguous United States, and in Canada (if available). Just as with FM, tall buildings or hills can interfere with satellite radio signals, causing the sound to fade in and out. In addition, traveling or standing under heavy foliage, bridges, garages, or tunnels may cause loss of the XM™ signal for a period of time. The radio may display NO SIGNAL to indicate interference.


Care of Your CDs Handle CDs carefully. Store them in their original cases or other protective cases and away from direct sunlight and dust. The CD player scans the bottom surface of the disc. If the surface of a CD is damaged, such as cracked, broken, or scratched, the CD will not play properly or not at all. If the surface of a CD is soiled, take a soft, lint free cloth or dampen a clean, soft cloth in a mild, neutral detergent solution mixed with water, and clean it. Make sure the wiping process starts from the center to the edge. Do not touch the bottom side of a CD while handling it; this could damage the surface. Pick up CDs by grasping the outer edges or the edge of the hole and the outer edge.


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Care of the CD Player The use of CD lens cleaners for CD players is not advised, due to the risk of contaminating the internal lens of the CD optics with lubricants.


Backglass Antenna The AM-FM antenna is integrated with the rear window defogger, located in the rear window. Be sure that the inside surface of the rear window is not scratched and that the lines on the glass are not damaged. If the inside surface is damaged, it could interfere with radio reception. Also, for proper radio reception, the antenna connector at the top-center of the rear window needs to be properly attached to the post on the glass. Notice: Using a razor blade or sharp object to clear the inside rear window may damage the rear window antenna and/or the rear window defogger. Repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not clear the inside rear window with sharp objects.


Notice: Do not apply aftermarket glass tinting with metallic film. The metallic film in some tinting materials will interfere with or distort the incoming radio reception. Any damage caused to your backglass antenna due to metallic tinting materials will not be covered by your warranty. Because this antenna is built into your rear window, there is a reduced risk of damage caused by car washes and vandals. If you choose to add a cellular telephone to your vehicle, and the antenna needs to be attached to the glass, be sure that you do not damage the grid lines for the AM-FM antenna. There is enough space between the lines to attach a cellular telephone antenna without interfering with radio reception. Do not apply aftermarket glass tinting to the back glass. The metallic film in some tinting materials will interfere with or distort the incoming radio reception. Care must be taken when cleaning the rear window because it breaks in the resistive material heating element and will adversely affect radio and defogger performance. See your dealer for details.


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XM™ Satellite Radio Antenna System The XM™ Satellite Radio antenna is located on the roof of your vehicle. Keep this antenna clear of snow and ice build up for clear radio reception. If your vehicle has a sunroof, the performance of the XM™ system may be affected if the sunroof is open. Loading items onto the roof of your vehicle can interfere with the performance of the XM™ system. Make sure the XM™ Satellite Radio antenna is not obstructed.


Chime Level Adjustment The radio is used to adjust the vehicle’s chime level. To change the volume level of the chime, press and hold pushbutton 6 with the ignition on and the radio power off. The volume level will change from the normal level to loud, and LOUD will appear on the radio display. To change back to the default or normal setting, press and hold pushbutton 6 again. The volume level will change from the loud level to normal, and NORMAL will appear on the radio display. Removing the radio and not replacing it with a factory radio or chime module will disable vehicle chimes.


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Section 4


Driving Your Vehicle


Your Driving, the Road, and Your Vehicle ..........4-2
Defensive Driving ...........................................4-2
Drunken Driving .............................................4-3
Control of a Vehicle ........................................4-6
Braking .........................................................4-6
Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) .........................4-7
Braking in Emergencies ...................................4-9
Traction Control System (TCS) .......................4-10
StabiliTrak® System ......................................4-11
Steering ......................................................4-11
Off-Road Recovery .......................................4-13
Passing .......................................................4-14
Loss of Control .............................................4-15
Driving at Night ............................................4-16
Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads ..................4-17


City Driving ..................................................4-20
Freeway Driving ...........................................4-21
Before Leaving on a Long Trip .......................4-22
Highway Hypnosis ........................................4-23
Hill and Mountain Roads ................................4-24
Winter Driving ..............................................4-26
If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand, Mud,


Ice or Snow ..............................................4-30
Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out .................4-31
Loading Your Vehicle ....................................4-31
Towing ..........................................................4-36
Towing Your Vehicle .....................................4-36
Recreational Vehicle Towing ...........................4-36
Towing a Trailer ...........................................4-38


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Your Driving, the Road, and Your Vehicle


{CAUTION:


Defensive Driving The best advice anyone can give about driving is: Drive defensively. Please start with a very important safety device in your vehicle: Buckle up. See Safety Belts: They Are for Everyone on page 1-8.


Defensive driving really means “Be ready for anything.” On city streets, rural roads, or expressways, it means “Always expect the unexpected.” Assume that pedestrians or other drivers are going to be careless and make mistakes. Anticipate what they might do and be ready. Rear-end collisions are about the most preventable of accidents. Yet they are common. Allow enough following distance. Defensive driving requires that a driver concentrate on the driving task. Anything that distracts from the driving task makes proper defensive driving more difficult and can even cause a collision, with resulting injury. Ask a passenger to help do these things, or pull off the road in a safe place to do them. These simple defensive driving techniques could save your life.


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Drunken Driving Death and injury associated with drinking and driving is a national tragedy. It is the number one contributor to the highway death toll, claiming thousands of victims every year. Alcohol affects four things that anyone needs to drive a vehicle:


Judgment


(cid:127) Muscular Coordination (cid:127) Vision (cid:127) Attentiveness Police records show that almost half of all motor vehicle-related deaths involve alcohol. In most cases, these deaths are the result of someone who was drinking and driving. In recent years, more than 16,000 annual motor vehicle-related deaths have been associated with the use of alcohol, with more than 300,000 people injured.


Many adults — by some estimates, nearly half the adult population — choose never to drink alcohol, so they never drive after drinking. For persons under 21, it is against the law in every U.S. state to drink alcohol. There are good medical, psychological, and developmental reasons for these laws. The obvious way to eliminate the leading highway safety problem is for people never to drink alcohol and then drive. But what if people do? How much is “too much” if someone plans to drive? It is a lot less than many might think. Although it depends on each person and situation, here is some general information on the problem. The Blood Alcohol Concentration (BAC) of someone who is drinking depends upon four things:


The amount of alcohol consumed The drinker’s body weight The amount of food that is consumed before and during drinking The length of time it has taken the drinker to consume the alcohol


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(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) According to the American Medical Association, a 180 lb (82 kg) person who drinks three 12 ounce (355 ml) bottles of beer in an hour will end up with a BAC of about 0.06 percent. The person would reach the same BAC by drinking three 4 ounce (120 ml) glasses of wine or three mixed drinks if each had 1-1/2 ounces (45 ml) of liquors like whiskey, gin, or vodka.


It is the amount of alcohol that counts. For example, if the same person drank three double martinis (3 ounces or 90 ml of liquor each) within an hour,


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the person’s BAC would be close to 0.12 percent. A person who consumes food just before or during drinking will have a somewhat lower BAC level. There is a gender difference, too. Women generally have a lower relative percentage of body water than men. Since alcohol is carried in body water, this means that a woman generally will reach a higher BAC level than a man of her same body weight will when each has the same number of drinks. The law in most U.S. states, and throughout Canada, sets the legal limit at 0.08 percent. In some other countries, the limit is even lower. For example, it is 0.05 percent in both France and Germany. The BAC limit for all commercial drivers in the United States is 0.04 percent. The BAC will be over 0.10 percent after three to six drinks (in one hour). Of course, as we have seen, it depends on how much alcohol is in the drinks, and how quickly the person drinks them. But the ability to drive is affected well below a BAC of 0.10 percent. Research shows that the driving skills of many people are impaired at a BAC approaching 0.05 percent, and that the effects are worse at night. All drivers are impaired at BAC levels above 0.05 percent.


{CAUTION:


Drinking and then driving is very dangerous. Your reflexes, perceptions, attentiveness, and judgment can be affected by even a small amount of alcohol. You can have a serious — or even fatal — collision if you drive after drinking. Please do not drink and drive or ride with a driver who has been drinking. Ride home in a cab; or if you are with a group, designate a driver who will not drink.


Statistics show that the chance of being in a collision increases sharply for drivers who have a BAC of 0.05 percent or above. A driver with a BAC level of 0.06 percent has doubled his or her chance of having a collision. At a BAC level of 0.10 percent, the chance of this driver having a collision is 12 times greater; at a level of 0.15 percent, the chance is 25 times greater! The body takes about an hour to rid itself of the alcohol in one drink. No amount of coffee or number of cold showers will speed that up. “I will be careful” is not the right answer. What if there is an emergency, a need to take sudden action, as when a child darts into the street? A person with even a moderate BAC might not be able to react quickly enough to avoid the collision. There is something else about drinking and driving that many people do not know. Medical research shows that alcohol in a person’s system can make crash injuries worse, especially injuries to the brain, spinal cord, or heart. This means that when anyone who has been drinking — driver or passenger — is in a crash, that person’s chance of being killed or permanently disabled is higher than if the person had not been drinking.


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Control of a Vehicle You have three systems that make your vehicle go where you want it to go. They are the brakes, the steering, and the accelerator. All three systems have to do their work at the places where the tires meet the road. Sometimes, as when you are driving on snow or ice, it is easy to ask more of those control systems than the tires and road can provide. That means you can lose control of your vehicle. See Traction Control System (TCS) on page 4-10. Adding non-GM accessories can affect your vehicle’s performance. See Accessories and Modifications on page 5-3.


Braking See Brake System Warning Light on page 3-38. Braking action involves perception time and reaction time. First, you have to decide to push on the brake pedal. That is perception time. Then you have to bring up your foot and do it. That is reaction time. Average reaction time is about three-fourths of a second. But that is only an average. It might be less with one driver and as long as two or three seconds or more with another. Age, physical condition, alertness, coordination, and eyesight all play a part. So do alcohol, drugs, and frustration. But even in three-fourths of a second, a vehicle moving at 60 mph (100 km/h) travels 66 feet (20 m). That could be a lot of distance in an emergency, so keeping enough space between your vehicle and others is important. And, of course, actual stopping distances vary greatly with the surface of the road, whether it is pavement or gravel; the condition of the road, whether it is wet, dry, or icy; tire tread; the condition of your brakes; the weight of the vehicle; and the amount of brake force applied.


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Avoid needless heavy braking. Some people drive in spurts — heavy acceleration followed by heavy braking — rather than keeping pace with traffic. This is a mistake. Your brakes may not have time to cool between hard stops. Your brakes will wear out much faster if you do a lot of heavy braking. If you keep pace with the traffic and allow realistic following distances, you will eliminate a lot of unnecessary braking. That means better braking and longer brake life. If your engine ever stops while you are driving, brake normally but do not pump your brakes. If you do, the pedal may get harder to push down. If your engine stops, you will still have some power brake assist. But you will use it when you brake. Once the power assist is used up, it may take longer to stop and the brake pedal will be harder to push. Adding non-GM accessories can affect your vehicle’s performance. See Accessories and Modifications on page 5-3.


Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) Your vehicle may have anti-lock brakes. ABS is an advanced electronic braking system that will help prevent a braking skid.


If your vehicle has anti-lock brakes, this warning light on the instrument panel will come on briefly when you start your vehicle.


When you start your engine, or when you begin to drive away, your anti-lock brake system will check itself. You may hear a momentary motor or clicking noise while this test is going on, and you may even notice that your brake pedal moves or pulses a little. This is normal.


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The anti-lock system can change the brake pressure faster than any driver could. The computer is programmed to make the most of available tire and road conditions. This can help you steer around the obstacle while braking hard.


Let us say the road is wet and you are driving safely. Suddenly, an animal jumps out in front of you. You slam on the brakes and continue braking. Here is what happens with ABS: A computer senses that wheels are slowing down. If one of the wheels is about to stop rolling, the computer will separately work the brakes at each wheel.


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As you brake, your computer keeps receiving updates on wheel speed and controls braking pressure accordingly.


Remember: Anti-lock does not change the time you need to get your foot up to the brake pedal or always decrease stopping distance. If you get too close to the vehicle in front of you, you will not have time to apply your brakes if that vehicle suddenly slows or stops. Always leave enough room up ahead to stop, even though you have anti-lock brakes. Using Anti-Lock Do not pump the brakes. Just hold the brake pedal down firmly and let anti-lock work for you. You may feel a slight brake pedal pulsation or notice some noise, but this is normal.


Braking in Emergencies At some time, nearly every driver gets into a situation that requires hard braking. If you have anti-lock brakes, you can steer and brake at the same time. However, if you do not have anti-lock brakes, your first reaction — to hit the brake pedal hard and hold it down — may be the wrong thing to do.


Your wheels can stop rolling. Once they do, the vehicle cannot respond to your steering. Momentum will carry it in whatever direction it was headed when the wheels stopped rolling. That could be off the road, into the very thing you were trying to avoid, or into traffic. If you do not have anti-lock brakes, use a “squeeze” braking technique. This will give you maximum braking while maintaining steering control. You can do this by pushing on the brake pedal with steadily increasing pressure. In an emergency, you will probably want to squeeze the brakes hard without locking the wheels. If you hear or feel the wheels sliding, ease off the brake pedal. This will help you retain steering control. If you do have anti-lock brakes, it is different. See Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) on page 4-7. In many emergencies, steering can help you more than even the very best braking.


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Traction Control System (TCS) Your vehicle may have a Traction Control System (TCS) that limits wheel spin. This is especially useful in slippery road conditions. The system operates only if it senses that one or both of the front wheels are spinning or beginning to lose traction. When this happens, the system reduces engine power and may also upshift the transaxle to limit wheel spin.


The traction control system active light will come on while the TCS is limiting wheel spin.


If your vehicle has a Driver Information Center (DIC), the TRACTION CONTROL ACTIVE message will come on in the while the TCS is limiting wheel spin. You may feel or hear the system working, but this is normal. If the vehicle is in cruise control when the TCS begins to limit wheel spin, the cruise control will automatically disengage. When road conditions allow safe use of the cruise control, it can be used again. See Cruise Control on page 3-10.


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The TCS operates in all transaxle shift lever positions. But the system can upshift the transaxle only as high as the shift lever position that was chosen, so use the lower gears only when necessary. See Automatic Transaxle Operation on page 2-26. To limit wheel spin, especially in slippery road conditions, you should always leave the TCS on. But you can turn the system off if you ever need to. The TCS should be turned off if the vehicle ever gets stuck in sand, mud or snow and rocking the vehicle is required. See Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out on page 4-31 and If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow on page 4-30. To turn the TCS on or off, press the TCS button located directly behind the gear shift lever. If your vehicle has a DIC, the TCS button is located above the radio. When the TCS is turned off, the TCS warning light will come on. It will disappear when the TCS is turned back on. If the TCS is limiting wheel spin when the TCS button is pressed, the TCS warning light will come on and the TCS will turn off right away. Adding non-GM accessories can affect your vehicle’s performance. See Accessories and Modifications on page 5-3 for more information.


StabiliTrak® System Your vehicle may be equipped with a vehicle stability enhancement system called StabiliTrak®. It is an advanced computer controlled system that assists you with directional control of the vehicle in difficult driving conditions. StabiliTrak® activates when the computer senses a discrepancy between your intended path and the direction the vehicle is actually traveling. StabiliTrak® selectively applies braking pressure at any one of the vehicle’s brakes to help steer the vehicle in the direction which you are steering. When the system activates, a STABILITY CONTROL ACTIVE message will be displayed on the Driver Information Center (DIC). See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-57. You may also hear a noise or feel vibration in the brake pedal. This is normal. Continue to steer the vehicle in the direction you want it to go. If there is a problem detected with StabiliTrak®, a SERVICE STABILITY SYSTEM message will be displayed on the Driver Information Center (DIC). See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-57. When this message is displayed, the system is not operational. Driving should be adjusted accordingly.


If your vehicle is in cruise control when the StabiliTrak® activates, the cruise control will automatically disengage. When road conditions allow you to safely use it again, you may reengage the cruise control. See Cruise Control on page 3-10 for more information.


Steering Power Steering If you lose power steering assist because the engine stops or the system is not functioning, you can steer but it will take much more effort. Steering Tips It is important to take curves at a reasonable speed. A lot of the “driver lost control” accidents mentioned on the news happen on curves. Here is why: Experienced driver or beginner, each of us is subject to the same laws of physics when driving on curves. The traction of the tires against the road surface makes it possible for the vehicle to change its path when you turn the front wheels. If there is no traction, inertia will keep the vehicle going in the same direction. If you have ever tried to steer a vehicle on wet ice, you will understand this.


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The traction you can get in a curve depends on the condition of your tires and the road surface, the angle at which the curve is banked, and your speed. While you are in a curve, speed is the one factor you can control. Suppose you are steering through a sharp curve. Then you suddenly apply the brakes. Both control systems — steering and braking — have to do their work where the tires meet the road. Unless you have four-wheel anti-lock brakes, adding the hard braking can demand too much of those places. You can lose control. The same thing can happen if you are steering through a sharp curve and you suddenly accelerate. Those two control systems — steering and acceleration — can overwhelm those places where the tires meet the road and make you lose control. See Traction Control System (TCS) on page 4-10. What should you do if this ever happens? Ease up on the brake or accelerator pedal, steer the vehicle the way you want it to go, and slow down. Speed limit signs near curves warn that you should adjust your speed. Of course, the posted speeds are based on good weather and road conditions. Under less favorable conditions you will want to go slower. If you need to reduce your speed as you approach a curve, do it before you enter the curve, while your front wheels are straight ahead.


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Try to adjust your speed so you can “drive” through the curve. Maintain a reasonable, steady speed. Wait to accelerate until you are out of the curve, and then accelerate gently into the straightaway. Adding non-GM accessories can affect your vehicle’s performance. See Accessories and Modifications on page 5-3.


Steering in Emergencies There are times when steering can be more effective than braking. For example, you come over a hill and find a truck stopped in your lane, or a car suddenly pulls out from nowhere, or a child darts out from between parked cars and stops right in front of you. You can avoid these problems by braking — if you can stop in time. But sometimes you cannot; there is not room. That is the time for evasive action — steering around the problem. Your vehicle can perform very well in emergencies like these. First apply your brakes. See Braking on page 4-6. It is better to remove as much speed as you can from a possible collision. Then steer around the problem, to the left or right depending on the space available.


Off-Road Recovery You may find that your right wheels have dropped off the edge of a road onto the shoulder while you are driving.


An emergency like this requires close attention and a quick decision. If you are holding the steering wheel at the recommended 9 and 3 o’clock positions, you can turn it a full 180 degrees very quickly without removing either hand. But you have to act fast, steer quickly, and just as quickly straighten the wheel once you have avoided the object. The fact that such emergency situations are always possible is a good reason to practice defensive driving at all times and wear safety belts properly.


If the level of the shoulder is only slightly below the pavement, recovery should be fairly easy. Ease off the accelerator and then, if there is nothing in the way, steer so that your vehicle straddles the edge of the pavement. You can turn the steering wheel up to one-quarter turn until the right front tire contacts the pavement edge. Then turn your steering wheel to go straight down the roadway.


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Passing The driver of a vehicle about to pass another on a two-lane highway waits for just the right moment, accelerates, moves around the vehicle ahead, then goes back into the right lane again. A simple maneuver? Not necessarily! Passing another vehicle on a two-lane highway is a potentially dangerous move, since the passing vehicle occupies the same lane as oncoming traffic for several seconds. A miscalculation, an error in judgment, or a brief surrender to frustration or anger can suddenly put the passing driver face to face with the worst of all traffic accidents — the head-on collision. So here are some tips for passing: (cid:127) Drive ahead. Look down the road, to the sides and to crossroads for situations that might affect your passing patterns. If you have any doubt whatsoever about making a successful pass, wait for a better time.


(cid:127) Watch for traffic signs, pavement markings and lines. If you can see a sign up ahead that might indicate a turn or an intersection, delay your pass. A broken center line usually indicates it is all right to pass, providing the road ahead is clear. Never cross a solid line on your side of the lane or a double solid line, even if the road seems empty of approaching traffic.


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(cid:127) Do not get too close to the vehicle you want to


pass while you are awaiting an opportunity. For one thing, following too closely reduces your area of vision, especially if you are following a larger vehicle. Also, you will not have adequate space if the vehicle ahead suddenly slows or stops. Keep back a reasonable distance.


(cid:127) When it looks like a chance to pass is coming up, start to accelerate but stay in the right lane and do not get too close. Time your move so you will be increasing speed as the time comes to move into the other lane. If the way is clear to pass, you will have a running start that more than makes up for the distance you would lose by dropping back. And if something happens to cause you to cancel your pass, you need only slow down and drop back again and wait for another opportunity. If other vehicles are lined up to pass a slow vehicle, wait your turn. But take care that someone is not trying to pass you as you pull out to pass the slow vehicle. Remember to glance over your shoulder and check the blind spot.


(cid:127) Check your mirrors, glance over your shoulder,


and start your left lane change signal before moving out of the right lane to pass. When you are far enough ahead of the passed vehicle to see its front in your inside mirror, activate your right lane change signal and move back into the right lane.


(cid:127) Remember that your passenger side outside mirror is convex. The vehicle you just passed may seem to be farther away from you than it really is. Try not to pass more than one vehicle at a time on two-lane roads. Reconsider before passing the next vehicle.


(cid:127) Do not overtake a slowly moving vehicle too rapidly.


Even though the brake lamps are not flashing, it may be slowing down or starting to turn. If you are being passed, make it easy for the following driver to get ahead of you. Perhaps you can ease a little to the right.


Loss of Control Let us review what driving experts say about what happens when the three control systems — brakes, steering, and acceleration — do not have enough friction where the tires meet the road to do what the driver has asked. In any emergency, do not give up. Keep trying to steer and constantly seek an escape route or area of less danger.


Skidding In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle. Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking reasonable care suited to existing conditions, and by not overdriving those conditions. But skids are always possible. The three types of skids correspond to your vehicle’s three control systems. In the braking skid, your wheels are not rolling. In the steering or cornering skid, too much speed or steering in a curve causes tires to slip and lose cornering force. And in the acceleration skid, too much throttle causes the driving wheels to spin. A cornering skid is best handled by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal. If you have the Traction Control System (TCS), remember: It helps avoid only the acceleration skid. See Traction Control System (TCS) on page 4-10. If you do not have this system, or if the system is off, then an acceleration skid is also best handled by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal. If your vehicle starts to slide, ease your foot off the accelerator pedal and quickly steer the way you want the vehicle to go. If you start steering quickly enough, your vehicle may straighten out. Always be ready for a second skid if it occurs.


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(cid:127) (cid:127) Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice, gravel, or other material is on the road. For safety, you will want to slow down and adjust your driving to these conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and vehicle control more limited. While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try your best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration, or braking, including engine braking by shifting to a lower gear. Any sudden changes could cause the tires to slide. You may not realize the surface is slippery until your vehicle is skidding. Learn to recognize warning clues — such as enough water, ice, or packed snow on the road to make a mirrored surface — and slow down when you have any doubt. If you have the Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS), remember: It helps avoid only the braking skid. If you do not have ABS, then in a braking skid, where the wheels are no longer rolling, release enough pressure on the brakes to get the wheels rolling again. This restores steering control. Push the brake pedal down steadily when you have to stop suddenly. As long as the wheels are rolling, you will have steering control.


Driving at Night Night driving is more dangerous than day driving. One reason is that some drivers are likely to be impaired — by alcohol or drugs, with night vision problems, or by fatigue. Here are some tips on night driving. (cid:127) Drive defensively. (cid:127) Do not drink and drive. (cid:127) Adjust the inside rearview mirror to reduce the


glare from headlamps behind you.


(cid:127) Since you cannot see as well, you may need to slow down and keep more space between you and other vehicles.


(cid:127) Slow down, especially on higher speed roads. Your vehicle’s headlamps can light up only so much road ahead. In remote areas, watch for animals. If you are tired, pull off the road in a safe place and rest.


No one can see as well at night as in the daytime. But as we get older these differences increase. A 50-year-old driver may require at least twice as much light to see the same thing at night as a 20-year-old.


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(cid:127) (cid:127) What you do in the daytime can also affect your night vision. For example, if you spend the day in bright sunshine you are wise to wear sunglasses. Your eyes will have less trouble adjusting to night. But if you are driving, do not wear sunglasses at night. They may cut down on glare from headlamps, but they also make a lot of things invisible. You can be temporarily blinded by approaching headlamps. It can take a second or two, or even several seconds, for your eyes to re-adjust to the dark. When you are faced with severe glare, as from a driver who does not lower the high beams, or a vehicle with misaimed headlamps, slow down a little. Avoid staring directly into the approaching headlamps. Keep the windshield and all the glass on your vehicle clean — inside and out. Glare at night is made much worse by dirt on the glass. Even the inside of the glass can build up a film caused by dust. Dirty glass makes lights dazzle and flash more than clean glass would, making the pupils of your eyes contract repeatedly. Remember that the headlamps light up far less of a roadway when you are in a turn or curve. Keep your eyes moving; that way, it is easier to pick out dimly lighted objects. Just as the headlamps should be checked regularly for proper aim, so should your eyes be examined regularly. Some drivers suffer from night blindness — the inability to see in dim light — and are not even aware of it.


Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads


Rain and wet roads can mean driving trouble. On a wet road, you cannot stop, accelerate, or turn as well because your tire-to-road traction is not as good as on dry roads. And, if your tires do not have much tread left, you will get even less traction. It is always wise to go slower and be cautious if rain starts to fall while you are driving. The surface may get wet suddenly when your reflexes are tuned for driving on dry pavement.


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The heavier the rain, the harder it is to see. Even if your windshield wiper blades are in good shape, a heavy rain can make it harder to see road signs and traffic signals, pavement markings, the edge of the road, and even people walking. It is wise to keep your windshield wiping equipment in good shape and keep your windshield washer fluid reservoir filled with washer fluid. Replace your windshield wiper inserts when they show signs of streaking or missing areas on the windshield, or when strips of rubber start to separate from the inserts.


{CAUTION:


Wet brakes can cause accidents. They will not work as well in a quick stop and may cause pulling to one side. You could lose control of the vehicle. After driving through a large puddle of water or a car wash, apply your brake pedal lightly until your brakes work normally.


Driving too fast through large water puddles or even going through some car washes can cause problems, too. The water may affect your brakes. Try to avoid puddles. But if you cannot, try to slow down before you hit them.


Hydroplaning Hydroplaning is dangerous. So much water can build up under your tires that they can actually ride on the water. This can happen if the road is wet enough and you are going fast enough. When your vehicle is hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road. Hydroplaning does not happen often. But it can if your tires do not have much tread or if the pressure in one or more is low. It can happen if a lot of water is standing on the road. If you can see reflections from trees, telephone poles, or other vehicles, and raindrops dimple the water’s surface, there could be hydroplaning. Hydroplaning usually happens at higher speeds. There just is not a hard and fast rule about hydroplaning. The best advice is to slow down when it is raining.


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Driving Through Deep Standing Water Notice: If you drive too quickly through deep puddles or standing water, water can come in through your engine’s air intake and badly damage your engine. Never drive through water that is slightly lower than the underbody of your vehicle. If you cannot avoid deep puddles or standing water, drive through them very slowly. Driving Through Flowing Water


Some Other Rainy Weather Tips (cid:127) Besides slowing down, allow some extra following


distance. And be especially careful when you pass another vehicle. Allow yourself more clear room ahead, and be prepared to have your view restricted by road spray.


(cid:127) Have good tires with proper tread depth.


See Tires on page 5-57.


{CAUTION:


Flowing or rushing water creates strong forces. If you try to drive through flowing water, as you might at a low water crossing, your vehicle can be carried away. As little as six inches of flowing water can carry away a smaller vehicle. If this happens, you and other vehicle occupants could drown. Do not ignore police warning signs, and otherwise be very cautious about trying to drive through flowing water.


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City Driving


Here are ways to increase your safety in city driving: (cid:127) Know the best way to get to where you are going. Get a city map and plan your trip into an unknown part of the city just as you would for a cross-country trip. Try to use the freeways that rim and crisscross most large cities. You will save time and energy. See Freeway Driving on page 4-21. Treat a green light as a warning signal. A traffic light is there because the corner is busy enough to need it. When a light turns green, and just before you start to move, check both ways for vehicles that have not cleared the intersection or may be running the red light.


One of the biggest problems with city streets is the amount of traffic on them. You will want to watch out for what the other drivers are doing and pay attention to traffic signals.


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(cid:127) (cid:127) Freeway Driving


Mile for mile, freeways — also called thruways, parkways, expressways, turnpikes, or superhighways — are the safest of all roads. But they have their own special rules.


The most important advice on freeway driving is: Keep up with traffic and keep to the right. Drive at the same speed most of the other drivers are driving. Too-fast or too-slow driving breaks a smooth traffic flow. Treat the left lane on a freeway as a passing lane. At the entrance, there is usually a ramp that leads to the freeway. If you have a clear view of the freeway as you drive along the entrance ramp, you should begin to check traffic. Try to determine where you expect to blend with the flow. Try to merge into the gap at close to the prevailing speed. Switch on your turn signal, check your mirrors, and glance over your shoulder as often as necessary. Try to blend smoothly with the traffic flow. Once you are on the freeway, adjust your speed to the posted limit or to the prevailing rate if it is slower. Stay in the right lane unless you want to pass. Before changing lanes, check your mirrors. Then use your turn signal. Just before you leave the lane, glance quickly over your shoulder to make sure there is not another vehicle in your blind spot.


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Once you are moving on the freeway, make certain you allow a reasonable following distance. Expect to move slightly slower at night. When you want to leave the freeway, move to the proper lane well in advance. If you miss your exit, do not, under any circumstances, stop and back up. Drive on to the next exit. The exit ramp can be curved, sometimes quite sharply. The exit speed is usually posted. Reduce your speed according to your speedometer, not to your sense of motion. After driving for any distance at higher speeds, you may tend to think you are going slower than you actually are.


Before Leaving on a Long Trip Make sure you are ready. Try to be well rested. If you must start when you are not fresh — such as after a day’s work — do not plan to make too many miles that first part of the journey. Wear comfortable clothing and shoes you can easily drive in. Is your vehicle ready for a long trip? If you keep it serviced and maintained, it is ready to go. If it needs service, have it done before starting out. Of course, you will find experienced and able service experts in GM dealerships all across North America. They will be ready and willing to help if you need it.


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Here are some things you can check before a trip: (cid:127) Windshield Washer Fluid: Is the reservoir full?


Are all windows clean inside and outside?


(cid:127) Wiper Blades: Are they in good shape?


Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: Have you checked all levels? Lamps: Are they all working? Are the lenses clean? Tires: They are vitally important to a safe, trouble-free trip. Is the tread good enough for long-distance driving? Are the tires all inflated to the recommended pressure?


(cid:127) Weather Forecasts: What is the weather outlook


along your route? Should you delay your trip a short time to avoid a major storm system?


(cid:127) Maps: Do you have up-to-date maps?


Highway Hypnosis Is there actually such a condition as highway hypnosis? Or is it just plain falling asleep at the wheel? Call it highway hypnosis, lack of awareness, or whatever. There is something about an easy stretch of road with the same scenery, along with the hum of the tires on the road, the drone of the engine, and the rush of the wind against the vehicle that can make you sleepy. Do not let it happen to you! If it does, your vehicle can leave the road in less than a second, and you could crash and be injured. What can you do about highway hypnosis? First, be aware that it can happen. Then here are some tips: (cid:127) Make sure your vehicle is well ventilated, with a


comfortably cool interior.


(cid:127) Keep your eyes moving. Scan the road ahead and to the sides. Check your rearview mirrors and your instruments frequently. If you get sleepy, pull off the road into a rest, service, or parking area and take a nap, get some exercise, or both. For safety, treat drowsiness on the highway as an emergency.


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(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) If you drive regularly in steep country, or if you are planning to visit there, here are some tips that can make your trips safer and more enjoyable. (cid:127) Keep your vehicle in good shape. Check all fluid levels and also the brakes, tires, cooling system, and transaxle. These parts can work hard on mountain roads.


{CAUTION:


If you do not shift down, your brakes could get so hot that they would not work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Shift down to let your engine assist your brakes on a steep downhill slope.


Hill and Mountain Roads


Driving on steep hills or mountains is different from driving in flat or rolling terrain.


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(cid:127) Stay in your own lane when driving on two-lane roads in hills or mountains. Do not swing wide or cut across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let you stay in your own lane.


(cid:127) As you go over the top of a hill, be alert. There


could be something in your lane, like a stalled car or an accident.


(cid:127) You may see highway signs on mountains that


warn of special problems. Examples are long grades, passing or no-passing zones, a falling rocks area, or winding roads. Be alert to these and take appropriate action.


{CAUTION:


Coasting downhill in NEUTRAL (N) or with the ignition off is dangerous. Your brakes will have to do all the work of slowing down. They could get so hot that they would not work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Always have your engine running and your vehicle in gear when you go downhill.


(cid:127) Know how to go down hills. The most important thing to know is this: let your engine do some of the slowing down. Shift to a lower gear when you go down a steep or long hill.


(cid:127) Know how to go uphill. You may want to shift down


to a lower gear. The lower gears help cool your engine and transaxle, and you can climb the hill better.


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Winter Driving


Here are some tips for winter driving: (cid:127) Have your vehicle in good shape for winter. (cid:127) You may want to put winter emergency supplies


in your trunk.


Also see Tires on page 5-57.


Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a supply of windshield washer fluid, a rag, some winter outer clothing, a small shovel, a flashlight, a red cloth, and a couple of reflective warning triangles. And, if you will be driving under severe conditions, include a small bag of sand, a piece of old carpet, or a couple of burlap bags to help provide traction. Be sure you properly secure these items in your vehicle.


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Driving on Snow or Ice Most of the time, those places where the tires meet the road probably have good traction. However, if there is snow or ice between the tires and the road, you can have a very slippery situation. You will have a lot less traction, or grip, and will need to be very careful.


What is the worst time for this? Wet ice. Very cold snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice can be even more trouble because it may offer the least


traction of all. You can get wet ice when it is about freezing, 32°F (0°C), and freezing rain begins to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews can get there. Whatever the condition — smooth ice, packed, blowing, or loose snow — drive with caution. If you have the Traction Control System (TCS), it improves your ability to accelerate when driving on a slippery road. Even though your vehicle has TCS, you will want to slow down and adjust your driving to the road conditions. Under certain conditions, you may want to turn the TCS off, such as when driving through deep snow and loose gravel, to help maintain vehicle motion at lower speeds. See Traction Control System (TCS) on page 4-10. Unless you have the Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS), you will want to brake very gently, too. If you do have ABS, see Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) on page 4-7. ABS improves your vehicle’s stability when you make a hard stop on a slippery road. Whether you have ABS or not, you will want to begin stopping sooner than you would on dry pavement. Without ABS, if you feel your vehicle begin to slide, let up on the brakes a little. Push the brake pedal down steadily to get the most traction you can.


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Remember, unless you have ABS, if you brake so hard that your wheels stop rolling, you will just slide. Brake so your wheels always keep rolling and you can still steer. (cid:127) Whatever your braking system, allow greater


following distance on any slippery road.


(cid:127) Watch for slippery spots. The road might be


fine until you hit a spot that is covered with ice. On an otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in shaded areas where the sun cannot reach, such as around clumps of trees, behind buildings, or under bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass may remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you are on it. Try not to brake while you are actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers.


If You Are Caught in a Blizzard If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a serious situation. You should probably stay with your vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near help and you can hike through the snow. Here are some things to do to summon help and keep yourself and your passengers safe:


Turn on your hazard flashers. Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police that you have been stopped by the snow.


(cid:127) Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around you. If you do not have blankets or extra clothing, make body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags, floor mats — anything you can wrap around yourself or tuck under your clothing to keep warm.


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(cid:127) (cid:127) You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.


{CAUTION:


Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you. You cannot see it or smell it, so you might not know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking your exhaust pipe. And check around again from time to time to be sure snow does not collect there. Open a window just a little on the side of the vehicle that is away from the wind. This will help keep CO out.


Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps the battery charged. You will need a well-charged battery to restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with your headlamps. Let the heater run for a while.


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Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again and repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or so until help comes.


If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you will need to spin the wheels, but you do not want to spin your wheels too fast. The method known as rocking can help you get out when you are stuck, but you must use caution.


{CAUTION:


If you let your tires spin at high speed, they can explode, and you or others could be injured. And, the transaxle or other parts of the vehicle can overheat. That could cause an engine compartment fire or other damage. When you are stuck, spin the wheels as little as possible. Do not spin the wheels above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.


Notice: Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting your transaxle back and forth, you can destroy your transaxle. See Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out on page 4-31. For information about using tire chains on your vehicle, see Tire Chains on page 5-72.


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Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will clear the area around your front wheels. If your vehicle has traction control, you should turn your traction control system off. See Traction Control System (TCS) on page 4-10. Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transaxle is in gear. By slowly spinning your wheels in the forward and reverse directions, you will cause a rocking motion that may free your vehicle. If that does not get you out after a few tries, you may need to be towed out. If you do need to be towed out, see Towing Your Vehicle on page 4-36.


Loading Your Vehicle It is very important to know how much weight your vehicle can carry. Two labels on your vehicle show how much weight it may properly carry, the Tire and Loading Information label and the Vehicle Certification label.


{CAUTION:


Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle.


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Tire and Loading Information Label


Label Example


A vehicle specific Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar). With the driver’s door open, you will find the label attached below the door lock post (striker).


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The tire and loading information label lists the number of occupant seating positions (A), and the maximum vehicle capacity weight (B) in kilograms and pounds. The Tire and Loading Information label also lists the tire size of the original equipment tires (C) and the recommended cold tire inflation pressures (D). For more information on tires and inflation, see Tires on page 5-57 and Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-63. There is also important loading information on the Certification label. It tells you the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) and the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for the front and rear axle, see “Certification Label” later in this section.


Steps for Determining Correct Load Limit 1. Locate the statement “The combined weight of


occupants and cargo should never exceed XXX kg or XXX lbs” on your vehicle’s placard.


2. Determine the combined weight of the driver and


passengers that will be riding in your vehicle.


3. Subtract the combined weight of the driver and


passengers from XXX kg or XXX lbs.


4. The resulting figure equals the available amount of


cargo and luggage load capacity. For example, if the “XXX” amount equals 1400 lbs and there will be five 150 lb passengers in your vehicle, the amount of available cargo and luggage load capacity is 650 lbs (1400 − 750 (5 x 150) = 650 lbs).


5. Determine the combined weight of luggage and cargo being loaded on the vehicle. That weight may not safely exceed the available cargo and luggage load capacity calculated in Step 4.


6. If your vehicle will be towing a trailer, the load


from your trailer will be transferred to your vehicle. Consult this manual to determine how this reduces the available cargo and luggage load capacity for your vehicle.


If your vehicle can tow a trailer, see Towing a Trailer on page 4-38 for important information on towing a trailer, towing safety rules, and trailering tips.


Example 1


Item


Description Maximum Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 1 = Subtract Occupant Weight 150 lbs (68 kg) × 2 = Available Occupant and Cargo Weight =


Total


1,000 lbs (453 kg)


300 lbs (136 kg)


700 lbs (317 kg)


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Example 2


Example 3


Item


Description Maximum Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 2 = Subtract Occupant Weight 150 lbs (68 kg) × 5 = Available Cargo Weight =


Total


Item


1,000 lbs (453 kg)


750 lbs (340 kg)


250 lbs (113 kg)


Description Maximum Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 3 = Subtract Occupant Weight 200 lbs (91 kg) × 5 = Available Cargo Weight =


Total


1,000 lbs (453 kg)


1,000 lbs (453 kg)


0 lbs (0 kg)


Refer to your vehicle’s tire and loading information label for specific information about your vehicle’s maximum vehicle capacity weight and seating positions. The combined weight of the driver, passengers, and cargo should never exceed your vehicle’s maximum vehicle capacity weight.


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Certification Label


A vehicle specific Certification label is found on the rear edge of the driver’s door. The label shows the gross weight capacity of your vehicle, called the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel, and cargo.


Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle or the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for either the front or rear axle. If the vehicle is going to carry a heavy load, spread it out. Do not carry more than 167 lbs (76 kg) in the trunk.


{CAUTION:


Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle.


Notice: Overloading your vehicle may cause damage. Repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not overload your vehicle.


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If things like suitcases, tools, packages, or anything else are put inside the vehicle, they will go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they will keep going.


{CAUTION:


Things you put inside your vehicle can strike and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or in a crash.


(cid:127) Put things in the trunk of your vehicle.


In a trunk, put them as far forward as you can. Try to spread the weight evenly.


(cid:127) Never stack heavier things, like suitcases,


inside the vehicle so that some of them are above the tops of the seats.


(cid:127) Do not leave an unsecured child restraint


in your vehicle.


(cid:127) When you carry something inside the vehicle, secure it whenever you can.


(cid:127) Do not leave a seat folded down unless


you need to.


Towing


Towing Your Vehicle Consult your dealer or a professional towing service if you need to have your disabled vehicle towed. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-6. If you want to tow your vehicle behind another vehicle for recreational purposes (such as behind a motorhome), see “Recreational Vehicle Towing” following.


Recreational Vehicle Towing Recreational vehicle towing means towing your vehicle behind another vehicle – such as behind a motorhome. The two most common types of recreational vehicle towing are known as dinghy towing, towing your vehicle with all four wheels on the ground, and dolly towing, towing your vehicle with two wheels on the ground and two wheels up on a device known as a dolly. With the proper preparation and equipment, many vehicles can be towed in these ways. See “Dinghy Towing” and “Dolly Towing,” following.


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Dolly Towing


Here are some important things to consider before you do recreational vehicle towing: (cid:127) What is the towing capacity of the towing vehicle? Be sure you read the tow vehicle manufacturer’s recommendations.


(cid:127) How far will you tow? Some vehicles have


restrictions on how far and how long they can tow.


(cid:127) Do you have the proper towing equipment? See your dealer or trailering professional for additional advice and equipment recommendations. Is your vehicle ready to be towed? Just as you would prepare your vehicle for a long trip, you will want to make sure your vehicle is prepared to be towed. See Before Leaving on a Long Trip on page 4-22.


If you tow your vehicle with all four wheels


Dinghy Towing Notice: on the ground, the drivetrain components could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not tow your vehicle with all four wheels on the ground. The vehicle was not designed to be towed with all four wheels on the ground. If your vehicle must be towed, you should use a dolly. See “Dolly Towing” that follows for more information.


Your vehicle can be towed using a dolly. To tow your vehicle using a dolly, follow these steps: 1. Put the front wheels on a dolly. 2. Put the gear shift lever in PARK (P). 3. Set the parking brake and then remove the


ignition key.


4. Clamp the steering wheel in a straight-ahead


position.


5. Release the parking brake.


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(cid:127) Towing a Trailer


{CAUTION:


If you do not use the correct equipment and drive properly, you can lose control when you pull a trailer. For example, if the trailer is too heavy, the brakes may not work well — or even at all. You and your passengers could be seriously injured. You may also damage your vehicle; the resulting repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Pull a trailer only if you have followed all the steps in this section. Ask your dealer for advice and information about towing a trailer with your vehicle.


Your vehicle can tow a trailer if it is equipped with the proper trailer towing equipment. To identify the trailering capacity of your vehicle, read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this section. Trailering is different than just driving the vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, acceleration, braking, durability, and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly.


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That is the reason for this part. In it are many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before pulling a trailer. Load-pulling components such as the engine, transaxle, wheel assembly, and tires are forced to work harder against the drag of the added weight. The engine is required to operate at relatively higher speeds and under greater loads, generating extra heat. What is more, the trailer adds considerably to wind resistance, increasing the pulling requirements. If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer Here are some important points:


There are many different laws, including speed limit restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure your rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you will be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police.


(cid:127) Consider using a sway control. Ask a hitch


dealer about sway controls.


(cid:127) Do not tow a trailer at all during the first 1,000 miles (1 600 km) the vehicle is driven. The engine, axle or other parts could be damaged.


(cid:127) Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that the vehicle tows a trailer, do not drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and do not make starts at full throttle. This helps the engine and other parts of the vehicle wear in at the heavier loads.


(cid:127) Obey speed limit restrictions when towing a trailer.


Do not drive faster than the maximum posted speed for trailers, or no more than 55 mph (90 km/h), to save wear on the vehicle’s parts.


There are three important considerations have to do with weight:


The weight of the trailer The weight of the trailer tongue The total weight on the vehicle’s tires


Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It should never weigh more than 1,000 lbs (450 kg). But even that can be too heavy. It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much the vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. It can also depend on any special equipment that is on the vehicle, and the amount of tongue weight the vehicle can carry. See “Weight of the Trailer Tongue” later in this section for more information.


Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming only the driver is in the tow vehicle and it has all the required trailering equipment. The weight of additional optional equipment, passengers and cargo must be subtracted from the maximum trailer weight. Ask your dealer for our trailering information or advice, or you can write us at:


Buick Customer Assistance Center P.O. Box 33136
Detroit, MI 48232-5136


In Canada, write to:


General Motors of Canada Limited Customer Communication Centre, 163-005
1908 Colonel Sam Drive Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7


4-39


(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total or gross weight of the vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. If there are a lot of options, equipment, passengers or cargo in the vehicle, it will reduce the tongue weight the vehicle can carry, which will also reduce the trailer weight the vehicle can tow. And if you tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load to the GVW because the vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31 for more information about the vehicle’s maximum load capacity.


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When using a weight-carrying hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 10 percent to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B). After the trailer is loaded, weigh the trailer and the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. The correct weight could be achieved simply by moving some items around in the trailer.


Safety Chains Chains should always be attached between the vehicle and the trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer so that the tongue will not drop to the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety chains and do not attach them to the bumper. Always leave just enough slack so the rig can be turned. And, never allow safety chains to drag on the ground. Trailer Brakes Because the vehicle has anti-lock brakes, do not try to tap into the vehicle’s brake system. If that is done, both brake systems will not work well, or at all.


Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires Be sure the vehicle’s tires are inflated to the upper limit for cold tires. These numbers can be found on the Tire-Loading Information label. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31. Be sure not to go over the GVW limit for the vehicle, or the GAWR, including the weight of the trailer tongue. If a weight distribution hitch is used, make sure not to go over the rear axle limit before applying the weight distribution spring bars. Hitches It is important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a few reasons why the right hitch is needed. Here are some rules to follow:


The rear bumper on the vehicle is not intended for hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or other bumper-type hitches to it. Use only a frame-mounted hitch that does not attach to the bumper. If holes need to be made in the body of the vehicle to install a trailer hitch, then be sure to seal the holes later when the hitch is removed. If the holes are not sealed, deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from the exhaust can get into the vehicle. See Engine Exhaust on page 2-34. Dirt and water can, too.


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(cid:127) (cid:127) Driving with a Trailer Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out for the open road, get to know the rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle is now a good deal longer and not nearly as responsive as the vehicle is by itself. Before starting, check all trailer hitch parts and attachments, safety chains, electrical connector, lamps, tires, and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start the vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check the electrical connection at the same time. During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working. Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as when driving the vehicle without a trailer. This can help avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns.


Passing More passing distance is needed up ahead when towing a trailer. And, because the vehicle is a good deal longer with the trailer, you will need to go much farther beyond the vehicle you have passed before you can return to the proper lane. Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you. Making Turns Notice: Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering. When turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so the trailer will not strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees, or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.


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Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer When towing a trailer, the vehicle may need a different turn signal flasher and/or extra wiring. Check with your dealer. The arrows on the instrument panel will flash whenever signaling a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other drivers you are about to turn, change lanes or stop. When towing a trailer, the arrows on the instrument panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. You may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It is important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working. Driving On Grades Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before starting down a long hill or steep downgrade. If the vehicle is not shifted down, the brakes might have to be used so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce the vehicle’s speed to around 45 mph (70 km/h) to reduce the possibility of engine and transaxle overheating. If towing a trailer, you may want to drive in THIRD (3) instead of AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE (D). Shift to a lower gear as needed.


Parking on Hills


{CAUTION:


You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged.


But if the rig ever has to be parked on a hill, here is how to do it: 1. Apply the regular brakes, but do not shift into


PARK (P) yet.


2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer’s


wheels.


3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.


4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply the parking


brake, and shift to PARK (P).


5. Release the regular brakes.


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When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply the regular brakes and hold the pedal


down while you: (cid:127) Start the engine. (cid:127) Shift into a gear. (cid:127) Release the parking brake.


2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks. 4. Stop and have someone pick up and store


the chocks.


Maintenance When Trailer Towing The vehicle will need service more often when it pulls a trailer. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4
for more information. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transaxle fluid; which should not be overfilled; engine oil, drive belt(s), and cooling and brake systems. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly. If trailering, it is a good idea to review this information before starting on a trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight. Engine Cooling When Trailer Towing The cooling system may temporarily overheat during severe operating conditions. See Engine Overheating on page 5-27.


4-44


Section 5


Service and Appearance Care


Service ............................................................5-3
Accessories and Modifications ..........................5-3
California Proposition 65 Warning .....................5-4
Doing Your Own Service Work .........................5-4
Adding Equipment to the Outside


of Your Vehicle ...........................................5-5
Fuel ................................................................5-5
Gasoline Octane ............................................5-5
Gasoline Specifications ....................................5-6
California Fuel ...............................................5-6
Additives .......................................................5-6
Fuels in Foreign Countries ...............................5-7
Filling the Tank ..............................................5-8
Filling a Portable Fuel Container .....................5-10
Checking Things Under the Hood ....................5-10
Hood Release ..............................................5-11
Engine Compartment Overview .......................5-12
Engine Oil ...................................................5-15
Engine Oil Life System ..................................5-18
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter ................................5-20
Automatic Transaxle Fluid ..............................5-21
Engine Coolant .............................................5-24
Radiator Pressure Cap ..................................5-27
Engine Overheating .......................................5-27
Overheated Engine Protection


Operating Mode ........................................5-29


Cooling System ............................................5-30
Power Steering Fluid .....................................5-37
Windshield Washer Fluid ................................5-38
Brakes ........................................................5-39
Battery ........................................................5-42
Jump Starting ...............................................5-42
Headlamp Aiming ...........................................5-48
Bulb Replacement ..........................................5-51
Halogen Bulbs ..............................................5-51
Headlamps and Sidemarker Lamps .................5-51
Front Turn Signal and Parking Lamps ..............5-53
Taillamps, Turn Signal, Sidemarker,


Stoplamps and Back-up Lamps ...................5-54
Windshield Replacement .................................5-56
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement ..............5-56
Tires ..............................................................5-57
Tire Sidewall Labeling ...................................5-58
Tire Terminology and Definitions .....................5-60
Inflation - Tire Pressure .................................5-63
Tire Inspection and Rotation ...........................5-64
When It Is Time for New Tires .......................5-66
Buying New Tires .........................................5-66
Different Size Tires and Wheels ......................5-68
Uniform Tire Quality Grading ..........................5-68
Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance ..................5-70


5-1


Section 5


Service and Appearance Care


Wheel Replacement ......................................5-70
Tire Chains ..................................................5-72
If a Tire Goes Flat ........................................5-72
Changing a Flat Tire .....................................5-73
Removing the Spare Tire and Tools ................5-74
Removing the Flat Tire and Installing


the Spare Tire ..........................................5-76
Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools ............5-82
Compact Spare Tire ......................................5-83
Appearance Care ............................................5-84
Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle .................5-84
Fabric/Carpet ...............................................5-85
Leather .......................................................5-86
Instrument Panel, Vinyl, and Other


Plastic Surfaces ........................................5-86
Care of Safety Belts ......................................5-87
Weatherstrips ...............................................5-87
Washing Your Vehicle ...................................5-87
Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses .....................5-87
Finish Care ..................................................5-88
Windshield and Wiper Blades .........................5-88


Aluminum or Chrome-Plated Wheels ................5-89
Tires ...........................................................5-89
Sheet Metal Damage .....................................5-90
Finish Damage .............................................5-90
Underbody Maintenance ................................5-90
Chemical Paint Spotting .................................5-90
Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials ..................5-91
Vehicle Identification ......................................5-92
Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) .................5-92
Service Parts Identification Label .....................5-92
Electrical System ............................................5-93
Add-On Electrical Equipment ..........................5-93
Headlamp Wiring ..........................................5-93
Windshield Wiper Fuses ................................5-93
Power Windows and Other Power Options .......5-93
Fuses and Circuit Breakers ............................5-93
Instrument Panel Fuse Block ..........................5-94
Underhood Fuse Block ..................................5-95
Capacities and Specifications ..........................5-98


5-2


Service

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