1994 Buick Century Owners Manual

trailer towing equipment. To identify what the vehicle trailering capacity is for your vehicle, you should read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this section. But trailering is different than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, durability, and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly. That’s the reason for this section. In it are many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before you pull a trailer.

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Load-pulling components such as the engine, transaxle, wheel assemblies, and tires are forced to work harder against the drag of the added weight. The engine is required to operate at relatively higher speeds and under greater loads, generating extra heat. What’s more, the trailer adds considerably to wind resistance, increasing the pulling requirements. If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer If you do, here are some important points.

There are many different laws having to do with trailering. Make sure your rig will be legal, not on!y where you live but also where you’ll be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police. Consider using a sway control,

You can ask a hitch dealer about sway controls.

Don’t tow a trailer at all during the first 500 miles (800 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine, axle or other parts could be damaged.

0 Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that you

tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the heavier loads.

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Obey speed limit restrictions when towing a trailer. Don’t drive faster than the maximum posted speed for trailers (or no more than 55 mph (90 Km/h) to save wear on your vehicle’s parts.

Three important considerations have to do with weight: Weight of the Trailer Your vehicle can tow normally up to 1,000 pounds (450kg). If your vehicle has a 3100 V6 engine with a four-speed automatic transaxle and is equipped with the optional heavy-duty engine cooling system, it can tow up to 2,000 pounds (900 kg). It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. And, it can also depend on any special equipment that you have on your vehicle. You can ask your dealer for our trailering information or advice, or you can write us at Buick Motor Division, Customer Assistance Center, 902 E. Hamilton Ave., Flint, MI 48550. In Canada, write to General Motors of Canada Limited, Customer Assistance Center, 1908 Colonel Sam Drive, Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7.

Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total capacity weight of your vehicle. The capacity weight includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. And if you will tow a trailer, you must subtract the tongue load from your vehicle’s capacity weight because your vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index for more information about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.

If you’re using a “dead-weight” hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 10% of the total loaded trailer weight (B). If you have a “weight-distributing” hitch, the trailer

tongue (A) should weigh 12% of the total loaded trailer weight (B). After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they aren’t, you may be able to get them right simply by moving some items around in the trailer. Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the limit for cold tires, You’ll find these numbers on the Certification label at the rear edge of the driver’s door or see “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index. Then be sure you don’t go over the GVW limit for your vehicle. Hitches It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by, and rough roads are a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch. Here are some rules to follow: 0 Will you have to make any holes in the body of your

vehicle when you install a trailer hitch? If you do, then be sure to seal the holes later when you remove the hitch. If you don’t seal them, deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from your exhaust can get into your vehicle (see “Carbon Monoxide” in the Index). Dirt and water can, too.

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The bumpers on your vehicle are not intended for hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or other bumper-type hitches to them. Use only a frame-mounted hitch that does not attach to the bumper.

Safety Chains You should always attach chains between your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer so that the tongue will not drop to the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety chains. Always leave just enough slack so you can turn with your rig. And, never allow safety chains to drag on the ground. Trailer Brakes Does your trailer have its own brakes? Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install, adjust and maintain them properly. Because you have anti-lock brakes, do not try to tap into your vehicle’s brake system. If you do, both brake systems won’t work well, or at all.

Driving with a Trailer Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly so responsive as your vehicle is by itself. Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform, safety chains, electrical connector, lights, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your electrical connection at the same time. During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lights and any trailer brakes are still working. Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns.

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Passing You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane. Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you. Making Turns When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees, or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance. Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have a different turn signal flasher and extra wiring. The green

arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lights will also flash, telling other drivers you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop. When towing a trailer, the green arrows on your instrument panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working. Driving On Grades Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce your speed to around 45 mph (70 km/h) to reduce the possibility of engine and transaxle overheating. If you are towing a trailer that weighs more than 1,000 pounds (450 kg) and you have an automatic transaxle with Overdrive, you may prefer to drive in “D” instead of Overdrive. An overdrive transmission is required if towing a trailer more than 1,000 pounds (450 kg).

Parking on Hills You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both your,vehicle and the trailer can be damaged. But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s how to do it: 1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into “P”

(Park) yet.

2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels. 3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.

4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then, apply your

parking brake, and then shift to “P” (Park).

5. Release the regular brakes.

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When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down

while you:

Start your engine; Shift into a gear; and Release the parking brake.

2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks. 4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks. Maintenance When Trailer Towing Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more on this. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transaxle fluid (don’t overfill), engine oil, belt, cooling system, and brake adjustment. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review these sections before you start your trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight.

@) Part 5 Problems on the Road

Here you’ll find what to do about some problems that can occur on the road . Part 5 includes:

HazardWarningFlashers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172 OtherWarningDevices ............................................................. 173 “Jump”Starting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174 TowingYourBuick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178 Engineoverheating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184 IfaTireGoesFlat ................................................................. 193 ChangingaFlatTire . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194 CompactSpareTire ................................................................ 205 If You’re Stuck in Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow .............................................. 206

1 I 1

Hazard Warning Flashers

Your hazard warning flashers let you warn others. They also let police know you have a problem. Your front and rear turn signal lights will flash on and off.

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Press the button in to make your front and rear turn signal lights flash on and off. Your hazard warning flashers work no matter what position your key is in, and even if the key isn't in.

Other Warning Devices If you carry reflective triangles, you can set one up at the side of the road about 300 feet (100 m) behind your vehicle. Jump Starting If your battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your Buick. But please follow the steps below to do it safely.

.-

To turn off the flashers, pull out on the collar. When the hazard warning flashers are on, your turn signals won't work.

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NOTICE: Ignoring these steps could result in costly damage to your vehicle that wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your Buick by pushing or pulling it won’t work, and it could damage your vehicle.

To Jump Start Your Buick: 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt

battery with a negative ground system.

I NOTICE: I If the other system isn’t a 12-volt system with a

negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged.

3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Turn off all lights that aren’t needed, and radios. This will avo sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save your radio!

‘id

I NOTICE:

If you leave your radio on, it could be badly damaged. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.

4. Open the hoods and locate the batteries.

2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles aren’t touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you don’t want. You wouldn’t be able to start your car, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems.

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Find the positive (+) and nenative (-) terminals on each battery.

Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) and negative (-) will go to negative (-) or a metal engine part. Don’t connect (+) to (-) or you’ll get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts, too.

5. Check that the jumper cables don’t have loose or

missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged, too.

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7. Don’t let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

8. Now connect the black negative (-) cable to the good battery’s negative (-) terminal.

6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the vehicle with the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

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Don’t let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative cable doesn’t go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy unpainted metal part on the engine of the vehicle with the dead battery. 9. Attach the cable at least 18 inches (45 cm) away

from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, but the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less.

11. Try to start the vehicle with the dead battery. If it

won’t start after a few tries, it probably needs service.

12. Remove the cables in reverse order to prevent

electrical shorting. Take care that they don’t touch

each other or any other metal. -+7

10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run

the engine for a while.

Remove cables in this order.

GOOD B A ~ E R Y

DEAD BAlTERY

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Towing Your Buick Try to have a GM dealer or a professional towing service tow your Buick. The usual towing equipment is a sling-type (A) or a wheel-lift (B) or car carrier (C) tow truck.

If your vehicle has been changed or modified since it was factory-new by adding aftermarket items like fog lamps, aero skirting, or special tires and wheels, these instructions and illustrations may not be correct. Before you do anything, turn on the hazard warning flashers. When you call, tell the towing service: 0 That your vehicle has front-wheel drive. 0 The make, model, and year of your vehicle. 0 Whether you can still move the shift lever. 0 If there was an accident, what was damaged. When the towing service arrives, let the tow operator know that this manual contains detailed towing instructions and illustrations. The operator may want to see them.

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When your vehicle is being towed, have the ignition key off. The steering wheel should be clamped in a straight-ahead position, with a clamping device designed for towing service. Do not use the vehicle’s steering column lock for this. The transaxle should be in Neutral and the parking brake released.

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Don’t have your vehicle towed on the front wheels, unless you must. If the vehicle must be towed on the front wheels, don’t go more than 35 mph (56 km/h) or farther than 50 miles (80 km) or your transaxle will be damaged. If these limits must be exceeded, then the front wheels have to be supported on a dolly.

Front Towing Hookups

Before hooking up to a tow truck, be sure to read all the information in “Towing Your Buick” earlier in this part. 1. Attach T-hook chains behind the front wheels into

the bottom of the floor pan on both sides.

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2. Position a 4" x 4" wood beam across sling chains

with spacer blocks contacting the forward extensions of the engine cradle.

3. Position the lower sling crossbar halfway between

the timber and the lower edge of the fascia.

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Rear Towing Hookups

4. Attach a separate safety chain around the outboard

end of each lower control arm.

Before hooking up to a tow truck, be sure to read all the information in “Towing Your Buick” earlier in this part. 1. Attach T-hook chains on both sides in the slotted

holes in the floor pan just ahead of the rear wheels.

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I

2. Position the lower sling crossbar directly under the

rear bumper.

3. Attach a separate safety chain to each side of the

axle inboard of the spring.

4. Be certain your vehicle is towed no faster than 35 mph (56 km/h) and no farther than 50 miles (80 km) to avoid damage to your transaxle.

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Engine Overheating You will find a coolant temperature gage or the warning light about a hot engine on your Buick’s instrument panel. If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine

I NOTICE:

If your engine catches fire because you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty.

If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine If you get the overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you:

Climb a long hill on a hot day. Stop after high speed driving. Idle for long periods in traffic. Tow a trailer.

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If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. Turn off your air conditioner. 2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan

speed and open the window as necessary.

3. Try to keep your engine under load (in a drive gear

where the engine runs slower).

If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about ten minutes. If the warning doesn't come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there's still no sign of steam, you can idle the engine for two or three minutes while you're parked, to see if the warning stops. But then, if you still have the warning, TURN OFF THE ENGINE AND GET EVERYONE OUT OF THE VEHICLE until it cools down. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.

When you decide it's safe to lift the hood, here's what you'll see: (A) Coolant recovery tank (B) Radiator pressure cap (C) Electric engine fan

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I I

If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, don’t do anything else until it cools down.

The coolant level should be at or above the “FULL HOT” mark. If it isn’t, you may have a leak in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system.

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1 NOTICE: I Engine damage from running your engine

without coolant isn’t covered by your warranty.

If there seems to be no leak, check to see if the electric engine fan is running. If the engine is overheating, the fan should be running. If it isn’t, your vehicle needs service.

How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Recovery Tank If you haven’t found a problem yet, but the coolant level isn’t at or above the “ADD” mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean water (preferably distilled) and a proper antifreeze at the coolant recovery tank. (See “Engine Coolant” in the Index for more information about the proper coolant mix.)

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NOTICE: In cold weather, water can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant.

When the coolant in the coolant recovery tank is at or above the the “FULL HOT” mark, start your vehicle. If the overheat warning continues, there’s one more thing you can try. You can add the proper coolant mix directly to the radiator, but be sure the cooling system is cool before you do it.

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How to Add Coolant to the Radiator

NOTICE: Your engine has a specific radiator fill procedure. Failure to follow this procedure could cause your engine to overheat and be severely damaged.

1. You can remove the radiator pressure cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly to the left until it first stops. (Don't press down while turning the pressure cap.)

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If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.

CAUTION:

2. Then keep turning the pressure cap, but now push down as you turn it. Remove the pressure cap.

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol -and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Pon’t spill coolant on .a hot engine.

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3. After the engine cools, open the coolant air bleed

valve. On the 3100 SF1 V6 (VIN Code M), it is located on the thermostat bypass tube.

5. Rinse or wipe any spilled coolant from the engine

and compartment.

4. Fill the radiator with the proper mix, up to the base

of the filler neck. If you see a stream of coolant coming from an air bleed valve, close the valve. Otherwise, close the valve after the radiator is filled.

6. Then fill the coolant recovery tank to “FULL HOT’’

mark.

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7 . Put the cap back on the coolant recovery tank, but

leave the radiator pressure cap off.

8. Start the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine fan.

9. By this time the coolant level inside the radiator

filler neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper mix through the filler neck until the level reaches the base of the filler neck.

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10. Then replace the

pressure cap. At any time during this procedure if coolant begins to flow out of the filler neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure the arrows on pressure cap line up like this.

11. Check the coolant in the recovery tank. The level in

the coolant recovery tank should be at the “HOT” mark when the engine is hot or at the “ADD” mark when the engine is cold.

If a Tire Goes Flat It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving, especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane. A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you’d use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop, well off the road if possible. If a tire goes flat, the next section shows how to use your jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.

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Changing a Flat Tire If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard warning flashers.

The following steps will tell you how to use the jack and change a tire.

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Sedan

The equipment you'll need is stored in the trunk. Pull the carpeting from the floor of the trunk. Turn the center retainer bolt on the compact spare tire housing counterclockwise to remove it, then lift the tire cover.

Lift off the jack and remove the spare tire. Remove the wheel wrench from the bag.

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Wagon

The equipment you’ll need is stored in the rear of your vehicle, behind the spare tire cover.

To remove the spare tire cover: Fold down the third seat, if so equipped. Then release the housing that covers the spare tire by carefully pushing in on the top edge of the cover.

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Slide the spare tire cover back while lifting it up and out of the lower track.

To remove the tire-changing equipment: Remove the wing nut and retainer from the center of the spare tire. Remove the spare tire.

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Standard Wheel Cover

Turn the two wing nuts counterclockwise and remove the jack retainer plate. Then pull out the jack and wheel wrench.

You will be using the flat end of the wheel wrench to remove the wheel cover. Pry along the edge of the wheel cover until it comes off.

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Next, attach the wheel wrench to the bolt on the end of the jack. Raise the jack a little by rotating the wheel wrench clockwise (to the right). Using the wheel wrench, loosen all the wheel nuts. Don't remove them yet.

Position the jack under the vehicle nearest the tire to be changed. The jack location should be approximately five inches (12.7 cm) from the wheel well.

Wire Wheel Cover

Removing the wire wheel cover requires this wire wheel key wrench.

F1 Put the flat end into the

notch and carefully pry the small center cover off.

Remove the theft deterrent wheel nut by placing the key end of the wire wheel wrench over the nut and turning it to the left. Pull off the wire wheel cover.

I NOTICE:

Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned will damage the vehicle or may allow the vehicle to fall off the jack. Be sure to fit the jack lift head into the proper location before raising your vehicle.

Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so there is enough room for the spare tire to fit. Remove all the wheel nuts and take off the flat tire.

Remove any rust or dirt from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces or spare wheel.

Raise the vehicle by rotating the wheel wrench clockwise.

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Place the spare on the wheel mounting surface.

Replace the wheel nuts with the rounded end of the nuts toward the wheel. Tighten each nut by hand until the wheel is held against the hub.

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Tighten the wheel nuts firmly in a criss-cross sequence as shown.

Lower the vehicle by rotating the wheel wrench counterclockwise. Lower the jack completely.

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Don’t try to put a wheel cover on your compact spare tire. It won’t fit. Store the wheel cover in the trunk or, if you have the wagon, in the rear cargo area, until you have the flat tire repaired or replaced.

I NOTICE:

Wheel covers won’t fit on your compact spare. If you try to put a wheel cover on your compact spare, you could damage the cover or the spare.

Now put all the equipment back in the vehicle.

BOLT

Sedan

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Wagon Spare Cover Replacement To install the spare tire cover in your station wagon when you are finished changing the tire: 1.

Put the front lower corner of the cover into the floor track. Overlap the lower rear edge of the front panel one to two inches. Slide the cover to the front;. the tabs must go under the rear edge. Insert the front upper corner into the track, at the bottom of the glass. Adjust the position of the cover to fit over the weatherstrip. Push the panel down into the track in the floor. Push the panel to lock it into the track of the molding at the bottom of the glass.

WHEEL WRENCH

FULL SIZE FLAT

JACK

USE TOP HOLE WITH VALVE STEM OUTBOARD

FOR STORAGE OF FULL-SIZE FLAT

2.

3.

4.

5.

U T

Wagon

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Compact Spare Tire Although the compact spare was fully inflated when your vehicle was new, it can lose air after a time. Check the inflation pressure regularly. It should be 60 psi (420 kPa). After installing the compact spare on your vehicle, you should stop as soon as possible and make sure your spare tire is correctly inflated. The compact spare is made to perform well at posted speed limits for distances up to 3,000 miles (5 000 km). The compact spare is made to go up to 3,000 miles (5 000 km), so you can finish your trip and have your full-size tire repaired or replaced where you want. Of course, it’s best to replace your spare with a full-size tire as soon as you can. Your spare will last longer and be in good shape in case you need it again.

I NOTICE:

Don’t take your compact spare through an automatic car wash with guide rails. The compact spare can get caught on the rails. That can damage the tire and wheel, and maybe other parts of your vehicle.

Don’t use your compact spare on some other vehicle. And don’t mix your compact spare or wheel with other wheels or tires. They won’t fit. Keep your spare and its wheel together.

NOTICE: Tire chains won’t fit yoUP-Cijimpct spare. Using them will damage your vehicle and destroy the chains too. Don’t use tire chains on your compact spare.

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If You’re Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow What you don’t want to do when your vehicle is stuck is to spin your wheels. The method known as “rocking” can help you get out when you’re stuck, but you must use caution.

I NOTICE:

Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting your transaxle back and forth, you can destroy your transaxle.

Rocking your vehicle to get it out: First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will clear the area around your front wheels. Then shift back and forth between “R” (Reverse) and a forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transaxle is in gear. If that doesn’t get you out after a few tries, you may need to be towed out. If you do need to be towed out, see “Towing Your Buick” in the Index.

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. @)

Part 6 Service and Appearance Care

Here you will find information about the care of your Buick . This part begins with service and fuel information. and then it shows how to check important fluid and lubricant levels . There is also technical information about your vehicle. and a section devoted to its appearance care . Part 6 includes:

~~~~~

Service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Fuel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HoodRelease . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . EngineOil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Aircleaner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . TransaxleFluid .................................................................... Enginecoolant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Powersteering . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Windshield Washer Fluid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Brakes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Battery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . BulbReplacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . LoadingYourVehicle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tires . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Appearancecare . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Fuses and Circuit Breakers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ReplacementBulbs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Capacities and Specifications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

208 209 212 213 218 220 223 226 227 228 231 232 236 238 245 253 254 258 259

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Service Your Buick dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you’ll go to your dealer for all your service needs. You’ll get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. We hope you’ll want to keep your GM vehicle all GM. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:

You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See “Maintenance Record” in the Index.

Doing Your Own Service Work If you want to do some of your own service work, you’ll want to get the proper Buick Service Manual. It tells you much more about how to service your Buick than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see “Service Publications” in the Index. Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see “Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped Buick” in the Index. 208

NOTICE: If you try to do your own service work without knowing enough about it, your vehicle could be damaged.

Fuel Use regular unleaded gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher. It should meet specifications ASTM D4814 in the U.S. and CGSB 3.5-92 in Canada. These fuels should have the proper additives, so you should not have to add anything to the fuel. In the U.S. and Canada, it’s easy to be sure you get the right kind of gasoline (unleaded). You’ll see “UNLEADED’ right on the pump. And only unleaded nozzles will fit into your vehicle’s filler neck. Be sure the posted octane is at least 87. If the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If it’s bad enough, it can damage your engine. If you’re using fuel rated at 87 octane or higher and you still hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service. But don’t worry if you hear a little pinging noise when you’re accelerating or driving up a hill. That’s normal, and you don’t have to buy a higher octane fuel to get rid of pinging. It’s the heavy, constant knock that means you have a problem. What about gasoline with blending materials that contain oxygen (oxygenates), such as MTBE or alcohol?

MTBE is “methyl tertiary-butyl ether.’’ Fuel that is no more than 15% MTBE is fine for your vehicle. Ethanol is ethyl or grain alcohol. Properly-blended fuel that is no more than 10% ethanol is fine for your vehicle. Methanol is methyl or wood alcohol.

NOTICE: Fuel that is more than 5% methanol is bad for your vehicle. Don’t use it. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage wouldn’t be covered under your warranty. And even at 5% or less, there must be “cosolvents” and corrosion preventers in this fuel to help avoid these problems.

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Gasolines for Cleaner Air Your use of gasoline with deposit control additives will help prevent deposits from forming in your engine and fuel system. That helps keep your engine in tune and your emission control system working properly. It’s good for your vehicle, and you’ll be doing your part for cleaner air. Many gasolines are now blended with oxygenates. General Motors recommends that you use gasolines with these blending materials, such as MTBE and ethanol. By doing so, you can help clean the air, especially in those parts of the country that have high carbon monoxide levels. In addition, some gasoline suppliers are now producing reformulated gasolines. These gasolines are specially designed to reduce vehicle emissions. General Motors recommends that you use reformulated gasoline. By doing so, you can help clean the air, especially in those parts of the country that have high ozone levels. You should ask your service station operators if their gasolines contain deposit control additives and oxygenates, and if they have been reformulated to reduce vehicle emissions.

210

Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the U.S. or Canada, unleaded fuel may be hard to find. Do not use leaded gasoline. If you use even one tankful, your emission controls won’t work well or at all. With continuous use, spark plugs can get fouled, the exhaust system can corrode, and your engine oil can deteriorate quickly. Your vehicle’s oxygen sensor will be damaged. All of that means costly repairs that wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. To check on fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you’ll be driving. You can also write us at the following address for advice. Just tell us where you’re going and give your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN).

General Motors Overseas Distribution Corporation, North American Export Sales (NAES) 1908 Colonel Sam Drive Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7

Filling Your Tank

The cap is behind a hinged door on the left side of your vehicle. To take off the cap, turn it slowly to the left (counterclockwise).

Be careful not to spill gasoline. Clean gasoline from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See “Cleaning the Outside of Your Buick” in the Index.

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When you put the cap back on, turn it to the right until you hear at least three clicks.

NOTICE: If you need a new cap, be sure to get the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit or have proper venting, and your fuel tank and emissions system might be damaged.

Checking Things Under the Hood Hood Release

To open the hood, first pull the handle inside the vehicle. It is located on the lower left side of the instrument panel.

Then go to the front of the vehicle and release the secondary hood release. Lift the hood.

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Engine Oil It’s a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.

Before closing the hood, be sure all the filler caps are on properly. Then just pull the hood down and close it firmly.

The 3100 V6 engine oil dipstick is located near the front and center of the engine compartment.

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The 2.2L L4 engine oil dipstick is located in the fill cap near the front and center of the engine compartment. Turn off the engine and give the oil a few minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you don’t, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.

To Check Engine Oil Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip lower, and check the level.

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When to Add Oil If the oil is at or below the ADD line, then you’ll need to add some oil. But you must use the right kind. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For crankcase capacity, see “Capacities and Specifications” in the Index.

NOTICE: Don’t add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged.

Just fill it enough to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you’re through.

What Kind of Oil to Use Beginning midyear 1993, oils of the proper quality for your vehicle will be identified with this new “starburst” symbol, The “starburst” symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API), and is preferred for use in your gasoline engine.

the front of the oil container, and use only oils that display this new symbol.

I You should look for this on

You should also use the proper viscosity oil for your vehicle, as shown in the following chart:

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RECOMMENDED SAE VISCOSITY GRADE ENGINE OILS

FOR BEST FUEL ECONOMY AND COLD Sw“nwl’l li, SELECT THE LOWEST SAE VISCOSITY GRADE OIL FOR THE EX. _____ TEMPERATURE RANGE.

HOT

WEATHER 7 ”F

t 100

+ 80

+ 60 + 40

+ 20

SAE 5W-30 PREFERRED

WEATHER

IF NEITHER SAE 5W-30 NOR SAE 1OW-30 GRADE OILS ARE AVAILABLE, SAE 30 .,. GRADE MAY BE USED AT TEMPERATURES ABOVE 40 DEGREES F (4 DEGREES C). DO NOT USE SAE 1OW-40, SAE 2OW-50 OR ANY OTHER GRADE OIL NOT RECOMMENDED

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As shown in the chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. However, you can use S A E 1OW-30 if it’s going to be 0°F (-18°C) or above. These numbers on an oil container show it.+ viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils, such as SAE low-40 or SAE 20W-50. If you cannot find oils with the new “starburst”symbo1 on the front of the-container, you should look for and use oils containing the following three things:

SHor SG “SH or SG” must be on the oil container, either by itself or combined with other quality designations, such as “SH/CD,” “SH,SG,CD,” “SG/CD,” etc. These letters show American Petroleum Institute (API) levels of quality. SAE 5W-30 Energy Conserving I1 Oils with these words on the container will help you save fuel.

These three things are usually included in a doughnut shaped logo (symbol) on most containers. If you cannot find oils with the “starburst” symbol, you should look for oils with the doughnut shaped symbol, containing the three things noted above.

NOTICE: If you use oils that do not have either the “starburst” symbol or an API SH or SG designation, you can cause engine damage not covered by your warranty.

GM Goodwrench@ oil (in Canada, GM Engine Oil) meets all the requirements for your vehicle.

Engine Oil Additives Don’t add anything to your oil. Your Buick dealer is ready to advise if you think something should be added. When to Change Engine Oil See if any one of these is true for you: 0 Most trips are less than 4 miles (6 km). 0 It’s below freezing outside and most trips are less

than 10 miles (1 6 km).

0 The engine is at low speed most of the time (as in door-to-door delivery, or in stop-and-go traffic).

0 You tow a trailer often. 0 Most trips are through dwty places. If any one of these is true for your vehicle, then you need to change your oil and filter every 3,000 miles (5 000 km) or 3 months -- whichever comes first. If none of them is true, change the oil every 7,500 miles (12 500 km) or 12 months -- whichever comes first. Change the filter at the first oil change and at every other oil change after that.

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Air Cleaner

Your air cleaner is on the driver’s side of the engine compartment. To check or replace the filter, use a screwdriver to loosen the hose clamp, then lift the rubber duct.

Engine Coolant Heater (Engine Block Heater) An engine coolant heater can be a big help if you have to park outside in very cold weather, 0°F (- 18 “C) or colder. If your vehicle has this option, see “Engine Coolant Heater” in the Index. What to Do with Used Oil Did you know that used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer? Don’t let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly throw away clothing or rags containing used engine oil. (See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products.) Used oil can be a real threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all free-flowing oil from the filter before disposal. Don’t ever dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help.

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Remove the wing nut and pull off the cover.

Remove and replace the filter. Replace the cover, wing nut and rubber duct. Tighten the hose clamp. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to replace the air filter. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services’’ in the Index.

219

Automatic Transaxle Fluid When to Check and Change A good time to check your automatic transaxle fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to change your fluid. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index. How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at a Buick dealership Service Department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.

I NOTICE:

loo much or too little fluid can damage your transaxle. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system, starting a fire. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transaxle fluid.

I NOTICE:

If the air cleaner is off, a backfire can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner in place when you’re driving.

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0 With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in “P” (Park).

0 Let the engine run at idle for three to five minutes. Then, without shutting off the engine. follow these steps:

Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transaxle fluid level if you have been driving: 0 When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C). 0 At high speed for quite a while. 0 In heavy traffic -- especially in hot weather. 0 While pulling a trailer. To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). If it’s colder than 50°F ( 10°C), you may have to drive longer. To check the fluid level 0 Park your vehicle on a level place and keep the

engine running.

0 With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever

in “P’ (Park).

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The dipstick on the 2.2L L4 engine looks like this. 1. Pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or

paper towel.

2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and

then pull it back out again.

3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower

level. The fluid level must be in the cross-hatched area.

4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the

dipstick back in all the way.

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How to Add Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transaxle fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level into the cross-hatched area on the dipstick. 1. Pull out the dipstick. 2. Using a long-neck funnel, add enough fluid at the

dipstick hole to bring it to the proper level.

It doesn’t take much fluid, generally less than a pint (OSL). Don’t overfill. We recommend you use only fluid labeled DEXRON@-I11 or DEXRON@-IIE, because fluids with that label are made especially for your automatic transaxle. Damage caused by fluid other than DEXRON@-I11 or DEXRON@-IIE is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as described under “How to Check.”

0 When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the

dipstick back in all the way.

Engine Coolant The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating or if you need to add coolant to your radiator, see “Engine Overheating” in the Index. The proper coolant for your Buick will: 0 Give freezing protection down to -34°F (-37°C). 0 Give boiling protection up to 262 “F ( 128 “C). 0 Protect against rust and corrosion.

Help keep the proper engine temperature.

0 Let the warning lights work as they should. What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean water (preferably distilled) and one-half antifreeze that meets “GM Specification 1825-M,” which won’t damage aluminum parts. You can also use a recycled coolant conforming to GM Specification 1825-M with a complete coolant flush and refill. If you use this mixture, you don’t need to add anything else.

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Adding Coolant

NOTICE: If you use an improper coolant mix, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mix can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts.

224

The coolant recovery tank is located on the passenger’s side of the engine compartment.

Add coolant mix at the recovery tank, but be careful not to spill it.

To Check Coolant When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at “ADD” or a little higher. When your engine is warm, the level should be up to “FULL HOT’’ or a little higher. To Add Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper mix at the coolant recovery tank. If the coolant recovery tank is completely empty, add coolant to the radiator. (See “Engine Overheating” in the Index.)

225

Radiator Pressure Cap

I NOTICE:

Your radiator cap is a 15 psi (105 kPa) pressure-type cap and must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss and possible engine damage from overheating. Be sure the arrows on the cap line up with the overflow tube on the radiator filler neck.

When you replace your radiator pressure cap, an AC@ cap is recommended. Thermostat Engine coolant temperature is controlled by a thermostat in the engine coolant system. The thermostat stops the flow of coolant through the radiator until the coolant reaches a preset temperature. When you replace your thermostat, an AC@ thermostat is recommended.

Power Steering Fluid

The power steering fluid reservoir is located on the passenger’s side of the engine compartment.

How To Check Power Steering Fluid Unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. Then remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on the dipstick. 0 When the engine compartment is hot, the level

should be at the “H” (Hot) mark.

0 When the engine compartment is cool, the level

should be at the “C” (Cold) mark.

Windshield Washer Fluid

To Add -

What to Add Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.

NOTICE: When adding power steering fluid or making a complete fluid change, always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.

The windshield washer reservoir is located on the passenger’s side of the engine compartment. The wagon rear washer fluid comes from the windshield washer reservoir.

227

Open the cap labeled “WASHER FLUID ONLY.” Add washer fluid until the bottle is full.

NOTICE:

When using concentrated washer fluid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water. Don’t mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water doesn’t clean as well as washer fluid. Fill your washer fluid tank only 3/4 full when it’s very cold. This allows for expansion, which could damage the tank if it is completely full. Don’t use radiator antifreeze in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.

228

Brakes Brake Master Cylinder Your brake master cylinder is here. It is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid.

There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in your master cylinder might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you

should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes won’t work well, or won’t work at all. So, it isn’t a good idea to “top off’ your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid won’t correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you’ll have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add (or remove) brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

When your brake fluid falls to a low level, your brake warning light will come on. See “Brake System Warning Light” in the Index.

What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid -- such as Delco Supreme 11 No. 1052535). Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only, and always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap before removing it.

(GM Part

NOTICE:

DOT-5 silicone brake fluid can damage your vehicle. Don’t use it.

a Don’t let someone put in the wrong kind of

fluid. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they’ll have to be replaced. Brake fluid can damage paint, so be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If ,you do, wash it off immediately. See “Appearance Care” in the Index.

229

Brake Wear Your Buick has front disc brakes and rear drum brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving (except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly).

Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair.

230

Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Your rear drum brakes don’t have wear indicators, but if you ever hear a rear brake rubbing noise, have the rear brake linings inspected. Also, the rear brake drums should be removed and inspected each time the tires are removed for rotation or changing. When you have the front brakes replaced, have the rear brakes inspected, too. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you apply the brakes moderately, with or without the vehicle moving, your brakes adjust for wear.

Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a modern vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Vehicles we design and test have top-quality GM brake parts in them, as your Buick does when it is new. When you replace parts of your braking system -- for example, when your brake linings wear down and you have to have new ones put in -- be sure you get new genuine GM replacement parts. If you don’t, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change, for the worse. The braking performance you’ve come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts. Battery Every new Buick has a Delco Freedom’ battery. You never have to add water to one of these. When it’s time for a new battery, we recommend a Delco Freedom’ battery. Get one that has the catalog number shown on the original battery’s label.

Vehicle Storage If you’re not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, take off the black, negative (-) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.

Contact your dealer to learn how to prepare your vehicle for longer storage periods.

3 2 1

Halogen Bulbs

Headlamp Bulb Replacement

For the type of bulb, see the Index under "Replacement Bulbs." 1. Turn the bulb assembly counterclockwise 1/6 turn, pressing in firmly, until the flanges align with the slots in the retainer ring.

2. Pull out the bulb assembly. 3. Disconnect the bulb base from the wiring harness by

lifting the plastic locking tab.

To replace the bulb assembly: 1.

Snap a new bulb into the wiring harness (A). Make sure the locking tab (B) is over the lock (C). Install the bulb assembly by putting the small tab (D) in the small notch in the retainer ring (E).

2.

232

3. Turn the bulb assembly 1/6 turn clockwise to lock it

in place.

Front Turn and Parking Bulb and/or Side Marker Bulb Replacement

,I'

1. Raise the hood. 2. Insert a screwdriver into the loop of the spring,

which can be seen just behind the bulb assembly. 3. Pull the spring to the rear and slightly toward the

outside of the car until the detent releases from the notch in the headlight mounting frame.

4. The bulb assembly is now loose. Pull it forward until

the bulb assembly can be reached.

To replace the turn/park bulb: 1. Rotate the bulb socket housing 1/4 turn

counterclockwise.

2. Push in and turn the bulb counterclockwise to

remove it.

3. Put in the new bulb and turn it clockwise. 4. Snap the wire connector onto the bulb assembly.

233

To reinstall the lamp: 1. Guide the latch spring through the opening in the metal inner panel.

. ..‘

To replace the side marker bulb: 1. Remove the socket by turning it counterclockwise

and pulling it straight out.

2. Remove the bulb by pulling it straight out of the

socket.

3. Insert the new bulb by pressing it straight into the

socket.

4. Insert the socket by pressing it straight into the bulb

hole and turning it clockwise.

2. Engage the two blades on the lamp into the slots on

the headlamp while engaging the two pins at the rear of the lamp openings into the sockets on the rear of the lamp. The lamp is now in place.

3. Insert a screwdriver into the loop on the latch spring.

Pull the spring to the rear and slightly center of the vehicle until the detent engages into the notch.

Taillight Bulb Replacement (Sedan) For the type of bulb, see the Index under “Replacement Bulbs.” Replacing bulbs in the taillight housing is very difficult, and we recommend that you see your dealer when you need a bulb replaced.

Taillight Bulb Replacement (Wagon)

For the type of bulb, see the Index under “Replacement Bulbs.” 1. Open the liftgate. 2. Remove the three Phillips head screws. 3. Pull the taillight housing away from the body of the

vehicle.

4. Press the bulb housing release lever and turn the housing 1/6 turn counterclockwise to remove it.

5. To remove the bulb, push in and rotate it

counterclockwise.

6. Reverse all steps to reassemble the taillight.

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Loading Your Vehicle

TIRE-LOADING INFORMATION

OCCUPANTS

WT. VEHICLE CAP. TOTAL LBS.

FRT. CTR. RR.

KG

MAX. LOADING & GVWR SAME AS VEHICLE CAPACITY WEIGHT PRESSURE TIRE

SIZE

SPEED

COLD TIRE

XXX

RTG

PSI/KPa

FRT. RR. SPA. IF TIRES ARE HOT, ADD 4PSD28KPa SEE OWNER‘S MANUAL FOR ADDITIONAL

I l r m l I :$#

\ INFORMATION

Two labels on your vehicle show how much weight it may properly carry. The Tire-Loading Information label found on the rear edge of the driver’s door tells you the proper size, speed rating and recommended inflation pressures for the tires on your vehicle. It also gives you important information about the number of people that can be in your vehicle and the total weight that you can carry. This weight is called the Vehicle Capacity Weight and includes the weight of all occupants, cargo, and all nonfactory-installed options.

MFD BY GENERAL MOTORS CORP DATE GVWR GAWR FRT GAWR

RR

THIS VEHICLE CONFORMS TO ALL APPLI- CABLE U.S. FEDERAL MOTOR VEHICLE SAFETY, BUMPER, AND THEFT PREVENTION STANDARDS IN EFFECT ON THE DATE OF MANUFACTURE SHOWN ABOVE.

The other label is the Certification label, found on the rear edge of the driver’s door. It tells you the gross weight capacity of your vehicle, called the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating). The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel and cargo. Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle, or the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for either the front or rear axle. And, if you do have a heavy load, you should spread it out. Don’t carry more than 160 pounds (72 kg) in the sedan trunk or 300 pounds (136 kg) in the six-passenger wagon rear area.

I NOTICE: I Your warranty does not cover parts or

components that fail because of overloading.

If you put things inside your vehicle -- like suitcases, tools, packages, or anything else -- they will go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they’ll keep going.

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Tires We don't make tires. Your new vehicle comes with high quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. These tires are'warranted by the tire manufacturers and their warranties are delivered with every new Buick. If your spare tire is a different brand than your road tires, you will have a tire warranty folder from each of these manufacturers.

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Inflation - Tire Pressure The Tire-Loading Information label which is on the rear edge of the driver’s door shows the correct inflation pressures for your tires, when they’re cold. “Cold” means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than a mile.

I NOTICE:

Don’t let anyone tell you that underinflation 911 overinflation is all right. It’s not. If your tires don’t have enough air (underinflation) you can get:

Too much flexing Too much heat 0 Tire overloading

Bad wear Bad handling

0 Bad fuel economy. If your tires have too much air (overinflation), you can get:

When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Don’t forget your compact spare tire. It should be at 60 psi (420 kPa). How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. Simply looking at the tires will not tell you the pressure, especially if you have radial tires -- which may look properly inflated even if they’re underinflated. If your tires have valve caps, be sure to put them back on. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.

Unusual wear Bad handling Rough ride Needless damage from road hazards.

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Tire Inspection and Rotation To make your tires last longer, have them in rotated at the mileages recommended in the Maintenance Schedule. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.

spected and

FRONT

Use this rotation pattern. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressure as ’shown on the Tire-Loading Information label. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque’’ in the Index.

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When It’s Time for New Tires

One way to tell when it’s time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 2/32 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining.

You need a new tire if 0 You can see the indicators at three or more places

around the tire.

0 You can see cord or fabric showing through the tire’s

rubber.

0 The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged deep

enough to show cord or fabric.

The tire has a bump, bulge or split.

0 The tire has a puncture, cut, or other damage that

can’t be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage.

Buying New Tires To find out what kind and size of tires you need, look at the Tire-Loading Information label. The tires installed on your vehicle when it was new had a Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC Spec) number on each tire’s sidewall. When you get new tires, get ones with that same TPC Spec number. That way, your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give proper endurance, handling, speed rating, traction, ride and other things during normal service on your vehicle. If your tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC number will be followed by a “MS” (for mud and snow). If you ever replace your tires with those not having a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating and construction type (bias, bias-belted or radial) as your original tires.

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Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1 1/2) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and climate.

Traction - A, B, C

The traction grades, from highest to lowest are: A, B, and C. They represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on braking (straight-ahead) traction tests and does not include cornering (turning) traction.

Uniform Tire Quality Grading The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration which grades tires by treadwear, traction and temperature performance. (This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.)

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Temperature - A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure. These grades are molded on the sidewalls of passenger car tires. While the tires available as standard or optional equipment on General Motors vehicles may vary with respect to these grades, all such tires meet General Motors performance standards and have been approved for use on General Motors vehicles. All passenger type

(P Metric) tires must conform to Federal safety requirements in addition to these grades. Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. In most cases, you will not need to have your wheels aligned again. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling one way or the other, the alignment may need to be reset. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your wheels may need to be rebalanced. Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked or badly rusted. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your Buick dealer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need. Each new wheel should have the same load carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset, and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces.

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If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts, or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts for your Buick model.

Used Replacement Wheels

Tire Chains

NOTICE: Use tire chains only where legal and only when you must. Use only SAE Class “S” type chains that are the proper size for your tires. Install them on the front tires and tighten them as tightly as possible with the ends securely fastened. Drive slowly and follow the chain manufacturer’s instructions. If you can hear the chains contacting your vehicle, stop and retighten them. If the contact continues, slow down until it stops. Driving too fast with chains on will damage your vehicle.

NOTICE: The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer/odometer calibration, headlight aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance, and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis.

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Appearance Care Remember, cleaning products can be hazardous. Some are toxic. Others can burst into flame if you strike a match or get them on a hot part of the vehicle. Some are dangerous if you breathe their fumes in a closed space. When you use anything from a container to clean your Buick, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s warnings and instructions. And always open your doors or windows when you’re cleaning the inside. Never use these to clean your vehicle: 0 Gasoline 0 Benzene Naphtha

0 Carbon Tetrachloride 0 Acetone 0 Paint Thinner 0 Turpentine 0 Lacquer Thinner 0 Nail Polish Remover They can all be hazardous -- some more than others -- and they can all damage your vehicle, too.

I NOTICE:

Don’t use any of these unless this manual says you can. In many uses, these will damage your vehicle:

Laundry Soap Bleach Reducing Agents

Cleaning the Inside of Your Buick Use a vacuum cleaner often to get rid of dust and loose dirt. Wipe vinyl or leather with a clean, damp cloth. Your Buick dealer has two GM cleaners, a solvent-type spot lifter and a foam-type powdered cleaner. They will clean normal spots and stains very well. Do not use them on vinyl or leather. Here are some cleaning tips: 0 Always read the instructions on the cleaner label.

Clean up stains as soon as you can -- before they set.

0 Use a clean cloth or sponge, and change to a clean area often. A soft brush may be used if stains are stubborn.

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I 0 Use solvent-type cleaners in a well-ventilated area

only. If you use them, don’t saturate the stained area.

0 If a ring forms after spot cleaning, clean the entire

area immediately or it will set.

I NOTICE: I Be careful with a hair dryer or heat

could scorch the fabric.

lamp. You

Using Foam-Type Cleaner on Fabric

Vacuum and brush the area to remove any loose dirt. Always clean a whole trim panel or section. Mask surrounding trim along stitch or welt lines. Mix Multi-Purpose Powdered Cleaner following the directions on the container label. Use suds only and apply with a clean sponge. Don’t saturate the material. Don’t rub it roughly. As soon as you’ve cleaned the section, use a sponge to remove the suds. Rinse the section with a clean, wet sponge. Wipe off what’s left with a slightly damp paper towel or cloth. Then dry it immediately with a blow dryer or a heat lamp.

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0 Wipe with a clean cloth. Using Solvent-Qpe Cleaner on Fabric First, see if you have to use solvent-type cleaner at all. Some spots and stains will dean off better with just water and mild soap. If you need to use a solvent: 0 Gently scrape excess soil from the trim material with a clean, dull knife or scraper. Use very little cleaner, light pressure and clean cloths (preferably cheesecloth). Cleaning should start at the outside of the stain, “feathering” toward the center. Keep changing to a clean section of the cloth.

0 When you clean a stain from fabric, immediately dry the area with an air hose, hair dryer, or heat lamp to help prevent a cleaning ring. (See the previous NOTICE.)

Special Cleaning Problems Greasy or Oily Stains Such as grease, oil, butter, margarine, shoe polish, coffee with cream, chewing gum, cosmetic creams, vegetable oils, wax crayon, tar and asphalt. 0 Carefully scrape off excess stain. 0 Follow the solvent-type instructions described

earlier.

0 Shoe polish, wax crayon, tar and asphalt will stain if left on a vehicle seat fabric. They should be removed as soon as possible. Be careful, because the cleaner will dissolve them and may cause them to spread.

Non-Greasy Stains Such as catsup, coffee (black), egg, fruit, fruit juice, milk, soft drinks, wine, vomit, urine and blood. 0 Carefully scrape off excess stain, then sponge the

soiled area with cool water.

0 If a stain remains, follow the foam-type instructions

described earlier.

0 If an odor lingers after cleaning vomit or urine, treat

the area with a waterbaking soda solution: 1 teaspoon (5 ml) of baking soda to 1 cup (250 ml) of lukewarm water. If needed, clean lightly with solvent-type cleaner.

Combination Stains Such as candy, ice cream, mayonnaise, chili sauce and unknown stains. 0 Carefully scrape off excess stain, then clean with

cool water and allow to dry.

0 If a stain remains, clean it with solvent-type cleaner. Cleaning Vinyl Use warm water and a clean cloth. 0 Rub with a clean, damp cloth to remove dirt. You

may have to do it more than once.

0 Things like tar, asphalt and shoe polish will stain if

you don’t get them off quickly. Use a clean cloth and a solvent-type vinyl cleaner.

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Cleaning Leather Use a soft cloth with lukewarm water and a mild soap or saddle soap.

For stubborn stains, use a mild solution of 10% isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) and 90% water. Never use oils, varnishes, solvent-based or abrasive cleaners, furniture polish or shoe polish on leather. Soiled leather should be cleaned immediately. If dirt is allowed to work into finish, it can harm the leather.

Cleaning the Top of the Instrument Panel Use only mild soap and water to clean the top surfaces of the instrument panel. Sprays containing silicones or waxes may cause annoying reflections in the windshield and even make it difficult to see through the windshield under certain conditions.

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Care of Safety Belts Keep belts clean and dry.