2008 Saturn VUE Owners Manual

Download PDF Manual
you are listening to in random order, press the pushbutton positioned under the RDM label until Random Current Disc displays. Press the same pushbutton again to turn off random play.

2. To play songs from all CDs loaded in a six-disc CD player in random order, press the pushbutton positioned under the RDM label until Randomize All Discs displays. Press the same pushbutton again to turn off random play.

h (Music Navigator): Use the music navigator feature to play MP3 ﬁles on the CD-R or CD-RW in order by artist or album. Press the pushbutton located below the music navigator label. The player scans the disc to sort the ﬁles by artist and album ID3 tag information. It can take several minutes to scan the disc depending on the number of MP3 ﬁles recorded to the CD-R or CD-RW. The radio can begin playing while it is scanning the disc in the background. When the scan is ﬁnished, the CD-R or CD-RW begins playing again.

3-67

Once the disc has been scanned, the player defaults to playing MP3 ﬁles in order by artist. The current artist playing is shown on the second line of the display between the arrows. Once all songs by that artist are played, the player moves to the next artist in alphabetical order on the CD-R/CD-RW and begins playing MP3 ﬁles by that artist. If you want to listen to MP3 ﬁles by another artist, press the pushbutton located below either arrow button. The disc goes to the next or previous artist in alphabetical order. Continue pressing either button until the desired artist is displayed.

To change from playback by artist to playback by album, press the pushbutton located below the Sort By label. From the sort screen, push one of the buttons below the album button. Press the pushbutton below the back label to return to the main music navigator screen. Now the album name is displayed on the second line between the arrows and songs from the current album begins to play. Once all songs from that album are played, the player moves to the next album in alphabetical order on the CD-R/CD-RW and begins playing MP3 ﬁles from that album.

To exit music navigator mode, press the pushbutton below the Back label to return to normal MP3 playback.

BAND: Press this button to listen to the radio while a CD is playing. The inactive CD remains inside the radio for future listening.

3-68

CD/AUX (CD/Auxiliary): Press this button to play a CD while listening to the radio. The CD icon and a message showing disc and/or track number displays while a CD is in the player. Press this button again and the system automatically searches for an auxiliary input device such as a portable audio player. If a portable audio player is not connected, “No Aux Input Device” displays.

XM Radio Messages

XL (Explicit Language Channels): These channels, or any others, can be blocked at a customer’s request, by calling 1-800-852-XMXM (9696).

XM Updating: The encryption code in the receiver is being updated, and no action is required. This process should take no longer than 30 seconds.

No XM Signal: The system is functioning correctly, but the vehicle is in a location that is blocking the XM™ signal. When you move into an open area, the signal should return.

Loading XM: The audio system is acquiring and processing audio and text data. No action is needed. This message should disappear shortly.

Channel Off Air: This channel is not currently in service. Tune to another channel.

Channel Unavail: This previously assigned channel is no longer assigned. Tune to another station. If this station was one of the presets, choose another station for that preset button.

No Artist Info: No artist information is available at this time on this channel. The system is working properly.

XM Radio ID: If tuned to channel 0, this message alternates with the XM Radio eight digit radio ID label. This label is needed to activate the service.

Unknown: If this message is received when tuned to channel 0, there could be a receiver fault. Consult with your dealer/retailer.

No Title Info: No song title information is available at this time on this channel. The system is working properly.

Check XM Receivr: If this message does not clear within a short period of time, the receiver could have a fault. Consult with your dealer/retailer.

No CAT Info: No category information is available at this time on this channel. The system is working properly.

XM Not Available: If this message does not clear within a short period of time, the receiver could have a fault. Consult with your dealer/retailer.

No Information: No text or informational messages are available at this time on this channel. The system is working properly.

CAT Not Found: There are no channels available for the selected category. The system is working properly.

XM TheftLocked: The XM receiver in the vehicle could have previously been in another vehicle. For security purposes, XM receivers cannot be swapped between vehicles. If this message appears after having your vehicle serviced, check with your dealer/retailer.

Navigation/Radio System Your vehicle may have a navigation radio system. The navigation system has built-in features intended to minimize driver distraction. Technology alone, no matter how advanced, can never replace your own judgment. See the Navigation System manual for some tips to help you reduce distractions while driving.

3-69

Audio Steering Wheel Controls

Some audio controls can be adjusted at the steering wheel. They include the following:

+ / − (Next/Previous): Press and release either the plus or minus button to go to the next or the previous preset radio station.

When a CD is playing, press and release either the plus or minus button to go to the next or the previous track. For vehicles with the OnStar® system, press the minus (previous) button to end a Hands-Free call, an OnStar® call, cancel an incoming call, or end the Advisor Playback.

3 (Volume): Move the thumbwheel up or down to increase or to decrease the volume.

3-70

Press and release the thumbwheel to mute the system. Press it again to turn the sound back on.

If your vehicle has the navigation system, press and hold the thumbwheel for longer than one second to initiate voice recognition. See “Voice Recognition” in the navigation manual for more information. If your vehicle has OnStar®, press and hold the thumbwheel for longer than one second to interact with the OnStar® system. OnStar® voice command does not work unless Personal Calling is activated. To activate OnStar® Personal Calling please refer to the OnStar® Owner’s manual. If your vehicle also has the navigation system, press the thumbwheel to initiate voice recognition and say, “OnStar” to enter the OnStar® mode. See OnStar® System on page 2-35 in this manual or the navigation manual for more information. Radio Reception Frequency interference and static can occur during normal radio reception if items such as cell phone chargers, vehicle convenience accessories, and external electronic devices are plugged into the accessory power outlet. If there is interference or static, unplug the item from the accessory power outlet.

AM The range for most AM stations is greater than for FM, especially at night. The longer range can cause station frequencies to interfere with each other. For better radio reception, most AM radio stations boost the power levels during the day, and then reduce these levels during the night. Static can also occur when things like storms and power lines interfere with radio reception. When this happens, try reducing the treble on the radio. FM Stereo FM stereo gives the best sound, but FM signals only reach about 10 to 40 miles (16 to 65 km). Tall buildings or hills can interfere with FM signals, causing the sound to fade in and out. XM™ Satellite Radio Service XM™ Satellite Radio Service gives digital radio reception from coast-to-coast in the 48 contiguous United States, and in Canada. Just as with FM, tall buildings or hills can interfere with satellite radio signals, causing the sound to fade in and out. In addition, traveling or standing under heavy foliage, bridges, garages, or through tunnels could cause loss of the XM signal for a period of time. The radio may display NO XM SIGNAL to indicate interference.

Fixed Mast Antenna The ﬁxed mast antenna can withstand most car washes without being damaged. If the mast should ever become slightly bent, straighten it out by hand. If the mast is badly bent, replace it. Check occasionally to make sure the mast is still tightened to the antenna base. If tightening is required, tighten by hand.

XM™ Satellite Radio Antenna System The XM™ Satellite Radio antenna is located on the roof of the vehicle. Keep this antenna clear of snow and ice build up for clear radio reception. If the vehicle has a sunroof, the performance of the XM™ system may be affected if the sunroof is open. Loading items onto the roof of the vehicle can interfere with the performance of the XM™ system. Make sure the XM™ Satellite Radio antenna is not obstructed.

3-71

✍ NOTES

3-72

Section 4

Driving Your Vehicle

Your Driving, the Road, and Your Vehicle ..........4-2
Driving Your Vehicle .......................................4-2
Driver Behavior ..............................................4-2
Driving Environment ........................................4-2
Vehicle Design ...............................................4-3
Defensive Driving ...........................................4-3
Drunk Driving .................................................4-4
Control of a Vehicle ........................................4-4
Braking .........................................................4-5
Antilock Brake System (ABS) ...........................4-6
Braking in Emergencies ...................................4-6
Traction Control System (TCS) .........................4-7
Electronic Stability Program ..............................4-8
All-Wheel Drive (AWD) System .......................4-10
Steering ......................................................4-10
Off-Road Recovery .......................................4-13
Passing .......................................................4-13

Loss of Control .............................................4-13
Off-Road Driving ...........................................4-15
Driving at Night ............................................4-27
Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads ..................4-28
Before Leaving on a Long Trip .......................4-29
Highway Hypnosis ........................................4-29
Hill and Mountain Roads ................................4-30
Winter Driving ..............................................4-31
If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand, Mud,

Ice, or Snow .............................................4-34
Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out .................4-35
Loading Your Vehicle ....................................4-35
Towing ..........................................................4-41
Towing Your Vehicle .....................................4-41
Recreational Vehicle Towing ...........................4-41
Towing a Trailer ...........................................4-44

4-1

Your Driving, the Road, and Your Vehicle

Driving Your Vehicle Whenever we drive, we are taking on an important responsibility. This is true for any motor vehicle — passenger car, van, truck, sport utility. Driver behavior, the driving environment, and the vehicle’s design all affect how well a vehicle performs. But statistics show that the most important factor, by far, is how we drive. Knowing how these three factors work together can help you understand how your vehicle handles and what you can do to avoid many types of crashes, including a rollover crash.

Driver Behavior The single most important thing is this: everyone in the vehicle, including the driver, should buckle up. See Safety Belts: They Are for Everyone on page 1-14. In fact, most serious injuries and fatalities to unbelted occupants can be reduced or prevented by the use of safety belts. In a rollover crash, an unbelted person is signiﬁcantly more likely to die than a person wearing a seat belt. In addition, avoiding excessive speed, sudden or abrupt turns, and drunken or aggressive driving can help make trips safer and avoid the possibility of a crash, especially a rollover crash. This section provides many useful tips to help you drive more safely.

Driving Environment You can also help avoid a rollover or other type of crash by being prepared for driving in inclement weather, at night, or during other times where visibility or traction may be limited, such as on curves, slippery roads, or hilly terrain. Unfamiliar surroundings can also have hidden hazards. To help you learn more about driving in different conditions, this section contains information about city, freeway, and off-road driving, as well as other hints for driving in various weather conditions.

4-2

Vehicle Design According to the U.S. Department of Transportation, utility vehicles have a signiﬁcantly higher rollover rate than other types of vehicles. Utility vehicles do have higher ground clearance and a narrower track or shorter wheelbase than passenger cars, to make them more capable for off-road driving. Speciﬁc design characteristics like these give the driver a better view of the road, but also give utility vehicles a higher center of gravity than other types of vehicles. This means that you should not expect a utility vehicle to handle the same way a vehicle with a lower center of gravity, like a car, would in similar situations. But driver behavior factors are far more often the cause of a utility vehicle rollover than are environmental or vehicle factors. Safe driver behavior and understanding the environment in which you will be driving can help avoid a rollover crash in any type of vehicle, including utility vehicles.

Defensive Driving Defensive driving means “always expect the unexpected.” The ﬁrst step in driving defensively is to wear your safety belt — See Safety Belts: They Are for Everyone on page 1-14.

{CAUTION:

Assume that other road users (pedestrians, bicyclists, and other drivers) are going to be careless and make mistakes. Anticipate what they might do and be ready. In addition:

(cid:127) Allow enough following distance between

you and the driver in front of you.

(cid:127) Focus on the task of driving.

Driver distraction can cause collisions resulting in injury or possible death. These simple defensive driving techniques could save your life.

4-3

Drunk Driving

{CAUTION:

Drinking and then driving is very dangerous. Your reﬂexes, perceptions, attentiveness, and judgment can be affected by even a small amount of alcohol. You can have a serious — or even fatal — collision if you drive after drinking. Do not drink and drive or ride with a driver who has been drinking. Ride home in a cab; or if you are with a group, designate a driver who will not drink.

Death and injury associated with drinking and driving is a global tragedy. Alcohol affects four things that anyone needs to drive a vehicle: judgment, muscular coordination, vision, and attentiveness. Police records show that almost 40 percent of all motor vehicle-related deaths involve alcohol. In most cases, these deaths are the result of someone who was drinking and driving. In recent years, more than 17,000 annual motor vehicle-related deaths have been associated with the use of alcohol, with about 250,000 people injured.

4-4

For persons under 21, it is against the law in every U.S. state to drink alcohol. There are good medical, psychological, and developmental reasons for these laws. The obvious way to eliminate the leading highway safety problem is for people never to drink alcohol and then drive. Medical research shows that alcohol in a person’s system can make crash injuries worse, especially injuries to the brain, spinal cord, or heart. This means that when anyone who has been drinking — driver or passenger — is in a crash, that person’s chance of being killed or permanently disabled is higher than if the person had not been drinking.

Control of a Vehicle The following three systems help to control your vehicle while driving — brakes, steering, and accelerator. At times, as when driving on snow or ice, it is easy to ask more of those control systems than the tires and road can provide. Meaning, you can lose control of your vehicle. See Traction Control System (TCS) on page 4-7. Adding non-dealer/non-retailer accessories can affect your vehicle’s performance. See Accessories and Modiﬁcations on page 5-3.

Braking See Brake System Warning Light on page 3-37. Braking action involves perception time and reaction time. First, you have to decide to push on the brake pedal. That is perception time. Then you have to bring up your foot and do it. That is reaction time. Average reaction time is about three-fourths of a second. But that is only an average. It might be less with one driver and as long as two or three seconds or more with another. Age, physical condition, alertness, coordination, and eyesight all play a part. So do alcohol, drugs, and frustration. But even in three-fourths of a second, a vehicle moving at 60 mph (100 km/h) travels 66 feet (20 m). That could be a lot of distance in an emergency, so keeping enough space between your vehicle and others is important. And, of course, actual stopping distances vary greatly with the surface of the road, whether it is pavement or gravel; the condition of the road, whether it is wet, dry, or icy; tire tread; the condition of the brakes; the weight of the vehicle; and the amount of brake force applied.

Avoid needless heavy braking. Some people drive in spurts — heavy acceleration followed by heavy braking — rather than keeping pace with traffic. This is a mistake. The brakes might not have time to cool between hard stops. The brakes will wear out much faster if you do a lot of heavy braking. If you keep pace with the traffic and allow realistic following distances, you will eliminate a lot of unnecessary braking. That means better braking and longer brake life. If your vehicle’s engine ever stops while you are driving, brake normally but do not pump the brakes. If you do, the pedal could get harder to push down. If the engine stops, you will still have some power brake assist. But you will use it when you brake. Once the power assist is used up, it can take longer to stop and the brake pedal will be harder to push. Adding non-dealer/non-retailer accessories can affect your vehicle’s performance. See Accessories and Modiﬁcations on page 5-3.

4-5

Antilock Brake System (ABS) Your vehicle has the Antilock Brake System (ABS), an advanced electronic braking system that will help prevent a braking skid. When you start the engine and begin to drive away, ABS will check itself. You might hear a momentary motor or clicking noise while this test is going on, and you might even notice that the brake pedal moves a little. This is normal.

If there is a problem with ABS, this warning light will stay on. See Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) Warning Light on page 3-37.

Let us say the road is wet and you are driving safely. Suddenly, an animal jumps out in front of you. You slam on the brakes and continue braking. Here is what happens with ABS: A computer senses that wheels are slowing down. If one of the wheels is about to stop rolling, the computer will separately work the brakes at each wheel.

4-6

ABS can change the brake pressure faster than any driver could. The computer is programmed to make the most of available tire and road conditions. This can help you steer around the obstacle while braking hard. As you brake, the computer keeps receiving updates on wheel speed and controls braking pressure accordingly. Remember: ABS does not change the time you need to get your foot up to the brake pedal or always decrease stopping distance. If you get too close to the vehicle in front of you, you will not have time to apply the brakes if that vehicle suddenly slows or stops. Always leave enough room up ahead to stop, even though you have ABS. Using ABS Do not pump the brakes. Just hold the brake pedal down ﬁrmly and let antilock work for you. You might hear the antilock pump or motor operate, and feel the brake pedal pulsate, but this is normal.

Braking in Emergencies With ABS, you can steer and brake at the same time. In many emergencies, steering can help you more than even the very best braking.

The TCS button is located on the instrument panel.

Press this button brieﬂy to turn off the TCS.

One of these TCS warning lights will be displayed on the instrument panel when the TCS is off.

Traction Control System (TCS) Your vehicle has a Traction Control System (TCS) that limits wheel spin. This is especially useful in slippery road conditions. The system operates only if it senses that one or both of the front wheels are spinning or beginning to lose traction. When this happens, the system reduces engine power to limit wheel spin. You may feel or hear the system working, but this is normal.

This light will ﬂash when your traction control system is limiting wheel spin.

The traction control system automatically comes on whenever you start your vehicle. To limit wheel spin, especially in slippery road conditions, you should always leave the system on. But you can turn the traction control system off if you ever need to. You should turn the system off if your vehicle ever gets stuck in sand, mud, ice or snow and rocking the vehicle is required. See Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out on page 4-35
and If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand, Mud, Ice, or Snow on page 4-34 for more information.

4-7

The traction control system can be activated again by pressing the traction control button. If the system is limiting wheel spin when you press the button, the system will not turn off until there is no longer a current need to limit wheel spin. You can turn the system back on at any time by pressing the button again. If the TCS light does not come on, you may not have traction control and your vehicle should be serviced at a dealer/retailer. Adding non-dealer/non-retailer accessories can affect your vehicle’s performance. See Accessories and Modiﬁcations on page 5-3 for more information. Electronic Stability Program Your vehicle has an Electronic Stability Program (ESP) system which combines antilock brake, traction and stability control systems and helps the driver maintain directional control of the vehicle in most driving conditions. When you ﬁrst start your vehicle and begin to drive away, the system performs several diagnostic checks to ensure there are no problems. You may hear or feel the system working. This is normal and does not mean there is a problem with your vehicle.

4-8

This light is located on the instrument panel cluster.

It will ﬂash when the ESP system is both on and activated.

If the system fails to turn on or activate, this light will be on solid.

When the light is on solid, the system will not assist the driver maintain directional control of the vehicle. Adjust your driving accordingly. The Electronic Stability Program (ESP) system automatically comes on whenever you start your vehicle. To assist the driver with vehicle directional control, especially in slippery road conditions, you should always leave the system on. You can turn ESP off if you ever need to.

The ESP/TCS button is located on the instrument panel.

The Traction Control System (TCS) can be turned off or back on by pressing the ESP/TCS button. To disable both traction control and ESP, press and hold the button brieﬂy. When the ESP system is turned off, the ESP/TCS warning light will be on solid to warn the driver that both traction control and ESP are disabled. It is recommended to leave the system on for normal driving conditions, but it may be necessary to turn the system off if your vehicle is stuck in sand, mud, ice or snow, and you want to “rock” your vehicle to attempt to free it.

ESP may also turn off automatically if it determines that a problem exists with the system. The ESP/TCS warning light will be on solid to warn the driver that ESP is disabled and requires service. If the problem does not clear itself after restarting the vehicle, you should see your dealer/retailer for service. If your vehicle is in cruise control when the system begins to assist the driver maintain directional control of the vehicle, the ESP/TCS light will ﬂash and the cruise control will automatically disengage. When road conditions allow you to use cruise again, you may re-engage the cruise control. See Cruise Control on page 3-11. Adding non-dealer/non-retailer accessories can affect your vehicle’s performance. See Accessories and Modiﬁcations on page 5-3 for more information.

4-9

All-Wheel Drive (AWD) System If your vehicle has all-wheel drive (AWD), the AWD system operates automatically without any action required by the driver. If the front drive wheels begin to slip, the rear wheels will automatically begin to drive the vehicle as required. There may be a slight engagement noise during hard use but this is normal.

This light is located on the instrument panel cluster.

It will come on and stay on to indicate there may be a problem with the drive system and service is required. If the light stays on, it must be reset. To reset the light, turn the ignition off and then back on again. If the light stays on, see your dealer/retailer for service. If the vehicle is exposed to extended heavy AWD usage, the AWD system will shut itself off to protect the system from overheating. When the system cools down, the AWD system will activate itself again automatically; this cool-down can take up to 20 minutes depending on outside temperature and vehicle use.

4-10

Steering Electric Power Steering If your vehicle has the electric power steering system and the engine stalls while you are driving, the power steering assist system will continue to operate until you are able to stop your vehicle. If you lose power steering assist because the electric power steering system is not functioning, you can steer, but it will take more effort. If you turn the steering wheel in either direction several times until it stops, or hold the steering wheel in the stopped position for an extended amount of time, you may notice a reduced amount of power steering assist. The normal amount of power steering assist should return shortly after a few normal steering movements. The electric power steering system does not require regular maintenance. If you suspect steering system problems and/or the Service Vehicle Soon light comes on, contact your dealer/retailer for service repairs. Hydraulic Power Steering If your vehicle has the hydraulic power steering system and you lose power steering assist because the engine stops or the power steering system is not functioning, you can steer, but it will take much more effort.

Steering Tips It is important to take curves at a reasonable speed. A lot of the “driver lost control” accidents mentioned on the news happen on curves. Here is why: Experienced driver or beginner, each of us is subject to the same laws of physics when driving on curves. The traction of the tires against the road surface makes it possible for the vehicle to change its path when you turn the front wheels. If there is no traction, inertia will keep the vehicle going in the same direction. If you have ever tried to steer a vehicle on wet ice, you will understand this. Traction in a curve depends on the condition of the tires and the road surface, the angle at which the curve is banked, and your speed. While in a curve, speed is the one factor you can control. Suppose you are steering through a sharp curve. Then you suddenly accelerate. Both control systems — steering and acceleration — have to do their work where the tires meet the road. Adding the sudden acceleration can demand too much of those places. You can lose control. See Traction Control System (TCS) on page 4-7 and Electronic Stability Program on page 4-8.

What should you do if this ever happens? Ease up on the brake or accelerator pedal, steer the vehicle the way you want it to go, and slow down. Speed limit signs near curves warn that you should adjust your speed. Of course, the posted speeds are based on good weather and road conditions. Under less favorable conditions you will want to go slower. If you need to reduce speed when approaching a curve, do it before you enter the curve, while the front wheels are straight ahead. Try to adjust the speed so you can drive through the curve. Maintain a reasonable, steady speed. Wait to accelerate until you are out of the curve, and then accelerate gently into the straightaway. Adding non-dealer/non-retailer accessories can affect your vehicle’s performance. See Accessories and Modiﬁcations on page 5-3.

4-11

Steering in Emergencies There are times when steering can be more effective than braking. For example, you come over a hill and ﬁnd a truck stopped in your lane, or a car suddenly pulls out from nowhere, or a child darts out from between parked cars and stops right in front of you. You can avoid these problems by braking — if you can stop in time. But sometimes you cannot; there is not room. That is the time for evasive action — steering around the problem. Your vehicle can perform very well in emergencies like these. First apply the brakes. See Braking on page 4-5. It is better to remove as much speed as you can from a possible collision. Then steer around the problem, to the left or right depending on the space available.

4-12

An emergency like this requires close attention and a quick decision. If you are holding the steering wheel at the recommended 9 and 3 o’clock positions, you can turn it a full 180 degrees very quickly without removing either hand. But you have to act fast, steer quickly, and just as quickly straighten the wheel once you have avoided the object. The fact that such emergency situations are always possible is a good reason to practice defensive driving at all times and wear safety belts properly.

Off-Road Recovery Your vehicle’s right wheels can drop off the edge of a road onto the shoulder while driving.

If the level of the shoulder is only slightly below the pavement, recovery should be fairly easy. Ease off the accelerator and then, if there is nothing in the way, steer so that your vehicle straddles the edge of the pavement. Turn the steering wheel up to one-quarter turn until the right front tire contacts the pavement edge. Then turn the steering wheel to go straight down the roadway.

Passing Passing another vehicle on a two-lane road can be dangerous. To reduce the risk of danger while passing: (cid:127) Look down the road, to the sides, and to crossroads

for situations that might affect a successful pass. If in doubt, wait.

(cid:127) Watch for traffic signs, pavement markings, and lines that could indicate a turn or an intersection. Never cross a solid or double-solid line on your side of the lane.

(cid:127) Do not get too close to the vehicle you want to

pass. Doing so can reduce your visibility.

(cid:127) Wait your turn to pass a slow vehicle. (cid:127) When you are being passed, ease to the right.

Loss of Control Let us review what driving experts say about what happens when the three control systems — brakes, steering, and acceleration — do not have enough friction where the tires meet the road to do what the driver has asked. In any emergency, do not give up. Keep trying to steer and constantly seek an escape route or area of less danger.

4-13

Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice, gravel, or other material is on the road. For safety, you will want to slow down and adjust your driving to these conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and vehicle control more limited. While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try your best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration, or braking, including reducing vehicle speed by shifting to a lower gear. Any sudden changes could cause the tires to slide. You may not realize the surface is slippery until your vehicle is skidding. Learn to recognize warning clues — such as enough water, ice, or packed snow on the road to make a mirrored surface — and slow down when you have any doubt. Remember: Any Antilock Brake System (ABS) helps avoid only the braking skid.

Skidding In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle. Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking reasonable care suited to existing conditions, and by not overdriving those conditions. But skids are always possible. The three types of skids correspond to your vehicle’s three control systems. In the braking skid, the wheels are not rolling. In the steering or cornering skid, too much speed or steering in a curve causes tires to slip and lose cornering force. And in the acceleration skid, too much throttle causes the driving wheels to spin. A cornering skid is best handled by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal. Remember: Any traction control system helps avoid only the acceleration skid. If your traction control system is off, then an acceleration skid is also best handled by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal. If your vehicle starts to slide, ease your foot off the accelerator pedal and quickly steer the way you want the vehicle to go. If you start steering quickly enough, your vehicle may straighten out. Always be ready for a second skid if it occurs.

4-14

Off-Road Driving This off-road guide is for vehicles that have all-wheel drive. If your vehicle does not have all-wheel drive, you should not drive off-road unless you are on a level, solid surface. Many of the same design features that help make your vehicle responsive on paved roads during poor weather conditions — features like all-wheel drive — help make it much better suited for off-road use. Its higher ground clearance also helps your vehicle step over some off-road obstacles. But your vehicle does not have features like special underbody shielding and a transfer case low gear range, things that are usually thought necessary for extended or severe off-road service. Also, see Braking on page 4-5. The airbag system is designed to work properly under a wide range of conditions, including off-road usage. Observe safe driving speeds, especially on rough terrain. As always, wear your safety belt. Off-road driving can be great fun. But it does have some deﬁnite hazards. The greatest of these is the terrain itself.

“Off-roading” means you have left the North American road system behind. Traffic lanes are not marked. Curves are not banked. There are no road signs. Surfaces can be slippery, rough, uphill, or downhill. In short, you have gone right back to nature. Off-road driving involves some new skills. And that is why it is very important that you read this guide. You will ﬁnd many driving tips and suggestions. These will help make your off-road driving safer and more enjoyable. Before You Go Off-Roading There are some things to do before you go out. For example, be sure to have all necessary maintenance and service work done. Is there enough fuel? Is the spare tire fully inﬂated? Are the ﬂuid levels up where they should be? What are the local laws that apply to off-roading where you will be driving? If you do not know, you should check with law enforcement people in the area. Will you be on someone’s private land? If so, be sure to get the necessary permission.

4-15

There are some important things to remember about how to load your vehicle. (cid:127) The heaviest things should be on the load ﬂoor and

forward of the rear axle. Put heavier items as far forward as you can.

(cid:127) Be sure the load is secured properly, so driving on

the off-road terrain does not toss things around.

You will ﬁnd other important information in this manual. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-35, Luggage Carrier on page 2-46, and Tires on page 5-51.

Loading Your Vehicle for Off-Road Driving

{CAUTION:

(cid:127) Cargo on the load ﬂoor piled higher than

the seatbacks can be thrown forward during a sudden stop. You or your passengers could be injured. Keep cargo below the top of the seatbacks.

(cid:127) Unsecured cargo on the load ﬂoor can be

tossed about when driving over rough terrain. You or your passengers can be struck by ﬂying objects. Secure the cargo properly.

(cid:127) Heavy loads on the roof raise the vehicle’s

center of gravity, making it more likely to roll over. You can be seriously or fatally injured if the vehicle rolls over. Put heavy loads inside the cargo area, not on the roof. Keep cargo in the cargo area as far forward and low as possible.

4-16

Environmental Concerns Off-road driving can provide wholesome and satisfying recreation. However, it also raises environmental concerns. We recognize these concerns and urge every off-roader to follow these basic rules for protecting the environment: (cid:127) Always use established trails, roads, and areas that

have been specially set aside for public off-road recreational driving; obey all posted regulations. (cid:127) Avoid any driving practice that could damage the

environment — shrubs, ﬂowers, trees, grasses — or disturb wildlife. This includes wheel-spinning, breaking down trees, or unnecessary driving through streams or over soft ground.

(cid:127) Always carry a litter bag — make sure all refuse is

removed from any campsite before leaving.

(cid:127) Take extreme care with open ﬁres where permitted,

camp stoves, and lanterns.

(cid:127) Never park your vehicle over dry grass or other

combustible materials that could catch ﬁre from the heat of the vehicle’s exhaust system.

Traveling to Remote Areas It makes sense to plan your trip, especially when going to a remote area. Know the terrain and plan your route. You are much less likely to get bad surprises. Get accurate maps of trails and terrain. Try to learn of any blocked or closed roads. It is also a good idea to travel with at least one other vehicle. If something happens to one of them, the other can help quickly. Getting Familiar with Off-Road Driving It is a good idea to practice in an area that is safe and close to home before you go into the wilderness. Off-road driving does require some new and different driving skills. Here is what we mean. Tune your senses to different kinds of signals. Your eyes, for example, need to constantly sweep the terrain for unexpected obstacles. Your ears need to listen for unusual tire or engine sounds. With your arms, hands, feet, and body, you will need to respond to vibrations and vehicle bounce.

4-17

Controlling your vehicle is the key to successful off-road driving. One of the best ways to control your vehicle is to control your speed. Here are some things to keep in mind. At higher speeds: (cid:127) You approach things faster and you have less time

to scan the terrain for obstacles.

(cid:127) You have less time to react. (cid:127) You have more vehicle bounce when you drive over

obstacles.

(cid:127) You will need more distance for braking, especially

since you are on an unpaved surface.

{CAUTION:

When you are driving off-road, bouncing and quick changes in direction can easily throw you out of position. This could cause you to lose control and crash. So, whether you are driving on or off the road, you and your passengers should wear safety belts.

Scanning the Terrain Off-road driving can take you over many different kinds of terrain. You need to be familiar with the terrain and its many different features. Here are some things to consider.

Surface Conditions: Off-roading can take you over hard-packed dirt, gravel, rocks, grass, sand, mud, snow, or ice. Each of these surfaces affects the steering, acceleration, and braking of your vehicle in different ways. Depending upon the kind of surface you are on, you may experience slipping, sliding, wheel spinning, delayed acceleration, poor traction, and longer braking distances.

Surface Obstacles: Unseen or hidden obstacles can be hazardous. A rock, log, hole, rut, or bump can startle you if you are not prepared for them. Often these obstacles are hidden by grass, bushes, snow, or even the rise and fall of the terrain itself. Here are some things to consider: (cid:127) Is the path ahead clear? (cid:127) Will the surface texture change abruptly up ahead? (cid:127) Does the travel take you uphill or downhill?

There is more discussion of these subjects later.

(cid:127) Will you have to stop suddenly or change direction

quickly?

4-18

When you drive over obstacles or rough terrain, keep a ﬁrm grip on the steering wheel. Ruts, troughs, or other surface features can jerk the wheel out of your hands if you are not prepared. When you drive over bumps, rocks, or other obstacles, the wheels can leave the ground. If this happens, even with one or two wheels, you cannot control the vehicle as well or at all. Because you will be on an unpaved surface, it is especially important to avoid sudden acceleration, sudden turns, or sudden braking. In a way, off-road driving requires a different kind of alertness from driving on paved roads and highways. There are no road signs, posted speed limits, or signal lights. You have to use your own good judgment about what is safe and what is not. Drinking and driving can be very dangerous on any road. And this is certainly true for off-road driving. At the very time you need special alertness and driving skills, your reﬂexes, perceptions, and judgment can be affected by even a small amount of alcohol. You could have a serious — or even fatal — accident if you drink and drive or ride with a driver who has been drinking. See Drunk Driving on page 4-4.

Driving on Off-Road Hills Off-road driving often takes you up, down, or across a hill. Driving safely on hills requires good judgment and understanding of what your vehicle can and cannot do. There are some hills that simply cannot be driven, no matter how well built the vehicle.

{CAUTION:

Many hills are simply too steep for any vehicle. If you drive up them, you will stall. If you drive down them, you cannot control your speed. If you drive across them, you will roll over. You could be seriously injured or killed. If you have any doubt about the steepness, do not drive the hill.

4-19

Approaching a Hill When you approach a hill, you need to decide if it is one of those hills that is just too steep to climb, descend, or cross. Steepness can be hard to judge. On a very small hill, for example, there may be a smooth, constant incline with only a small change in elevation where you can easily see all the way to the top. On a large hill, the incline may get steeper as you near the top, but you may not see this because the crest of the hill is hidden by bushes, grass, or shrubs. Here are some other things to consider as you approach a hill. (cid:127) Is there a constant incline, or does the hill get

sharply steeper in places?

(cid:127) Is there good traction on the hillside, or will the

surface cause tire slipping?

(cid:127) Is there a straight path up or down the hill so you

will not have to make turning maneuvers?

(cid:127) Are there obstructions on the hill that can block your

path, such as boulders, trees, logs, or ruts?

(cid:127) What is beyond the hill? Is there a cliff, an

embankment, a drop-off, a fence? Get out and walk the hill if you do not know. It is the smart way to ﬁnd out.

(cid:127) Is the hill simply too rough? Steep hills often have ruts, gullies, troughs, and exposed rocks because they are more susceptible to the effects of erosion.

4-20

Driving Uphill Once you decide you can safely drive up the hill, you need to take some special steps. (cid:127) Use a low gear and get a ﬁrm grip on the steering

wheel.

(cid:127) Get a smooth start up the hill and try to maintain

speed. Do not use more power than you need, because you do not want the wheels to start spinning or sliding.

{CAUTION:

Turning or driving across steep hills can be dangerous. You could lose traction, slide sideways, and possibly roll over. You could be seriously injured or killed. When driving up hills, always try to go straight up.

(cid:127) Try to drive straight up the hill if at all possible. If the path twists and turns, you might want to ﬁnd another route.

(cid:127) Ease up on the speed as you approach the top of

the hill.

(cid:127) Attach a ﬂag to the vehicle to make it more visible

to approaching traffic on trails or hills.

(cid:127) Sound the horn as you approach the top of the hill

to let opposing traffic know you are there.

(cid:127) Use your headlamps even during the day. They

make your vehicle more visible to oncoming traffic.

{CAUTION:

Driving to the top (crest) of a hill at full speed can cause an accident. There could be a drop-off, embankment, cliff, or even another vehicle. You could be seriously injured or killed. As you near the top of a hill, slow down and stay alert.

There are some things you should do if the vehicle stalls, or is about to stall, and you cannot make it up the hill: (cid:127) Push the brake pedal to stop the vehicle and keep it from rolling backwards. Also, apply the parking brake.

(cid:127) If the engine is still running, shift the transmission to REVERSE (R), release the parking brake, and slowly back down the hill in REVERSE (R).

(cid:127) If the engine has stopped running, you will need to restart it. With the brake pedal pressed and the parking brake still applied, shift the transmission to PARK (P), or shift to NEUTRAL if you have a manual transmission, and restart the engine. Then shift to REVERSE (R), release the parking brake, and slowly back down the hill as straight as possible in REVERSE (R).

(cid:127) As you are backing down the hill, put your left hand on the steering wheel at the 12 o’clock position. This way you will be able to tell if the wheels are straight and maneuver as you back down. It is best that you back down the hill with the wheels straight rather than in the left or right direction. Turning the wheel too far to the left or right will increase the possibility of a rollover.

4-21

Driving Downhill When off-roading takes you downhill, you will want to consider a number of things: (cid:127) How steep is the downhill? Will I be able to maintain

vehicle control?

(cid:127) What is the surface like? Smooth? Rough?

Slippery? Hard-packed dirt? Gravel?

(cid:127) Are there hidden surface obstacles? Ruts? Logs?

Boulders?

(cid:127) What is at the bottom of the hill? Is there a hidden creek bank or even a river bottom with large rocks? If you decide you can go down a hill safely, then try to keep your vehicle headed straight down, and use a low gear. This way, engine drag can help the brakes and they will not have to do all the work. Descend slowly, keeping your vehicle under control at all times.

There are also some things you must not do if you stall, or are about to stall, when going up a hill: (cid:127) Never attempt to prevent a stall by shifting into NEUTRAL (N), or pressing the clutch if you have a manual transmission, to rev-up the engine and regain forward momentum. This will not work. Your vehicle will roll backwards very quickly and you could go out of control. Instead, apply the regular brake to stop the vehicle. Then apply the parking brake. Shift to REVERSE (R), release the parking brake, and slowly back straight down.

(cid:127) Never attempt to turn around if you are about to stall when going up a hill. If the hill is steep enough to stall your vehicle, it is steep enough to cause it to roll over if you turn around. If you cannot make it up the hill you must back straight down the hill.

If, after stalling, you try to back down the hill and decide you just cannot do it, set the parking brake, put your transmission in PARK (P), or FIRST (1) if your vehicle has a manual transmission, and turn off the engine. Leave the vehicle and go get some help. Exit on the uphill side and stay clear of the path the vehicle would take if it rolled downhill.

4-22

{CAUTION:

Heavy braking when going down a hill can cause your brakes to overheat and fade. This could cause loss of control and a serious accident. Apply the brakes lightly when descending a hill and use a low gear to keep vehicle speed under control.

There some things not to do when driving down a hill. These are important because, if you ignore them, you could lose control and have a serious accident: (cid:127) When driving downhill, avoid turns that take you across the incline of the hill. A hill that is not too steep to drive down may be too steep to drive across. Your vehicle could roll over if you do not drive straight down.

(cid:127) Never go downhill with the transmission in

NEUTRAL (N). This is called “free wheeling.” The brakes will have to do all the work and could overheat and fade.

(cid:127) Unless your vehicle has anti-lock brakes, avoid braking so hard that you lock the wheels when going downhill. If the wheels are locked, you cannot steer your vehicle. If the wheels lock up during downhill braking, you may feel the vehicle starting to slide sideways. To regain your direction, just ease off the brakes and steer to keep the front of the vehicle pointing straight downhill.

Your vehicle is much more likely to stall when going uphill. But if it happens when going downhill: 1. Stop your vehicle by applying the regular brakes.

Apply the parking brake.

2. Shift to PARK (P), or NEUTRAL if you have a manual transmission, and, while still braking, restart the engine.

3. Shift back to a low gear, release the parking brake,

and drive straight down.

4. If the engine will not start, get out and get help.

4-23

(cid:127) Surface conditions can be a problem when you drive across a hill. Loose gravel, muddy spots, or even wet grass can cause your tires to slip sideways, downhill. If the vehicle slips sideways, it can hit something that will trip it — a rock, a rut, etc. — and roll over.

(cid:127) Hidden obstacles can make the steepness of the

incline even worse. If you drive across a rock with the uphill wheels, or if the downhill wheels drop into a rut or depression, your vehicle can tilt even more.

For reasons like these, you need to decide carefully whether to try to drive across an incline. Just because the trail goes across the incline does not mean you have to drive it. The last vehicle to try it might have rolled over. When driving across an incline that is not too steep, the vehicle can hit some loose gravel and start to slide downhill. If you feel your vehicle starting to slide sideways, turn downhill. This should help straighten out the vehicle and prevent the side slipping. However, a much better way to prevent this is to get out and “walk the course” so you know what the surface is like before you drive it.

Driving Across an Incline Sooner or later, an off-road trail will probably go across the incline of a hill. If this happens, you have to decide whether to try to drive across the incline. Here are some things to consider:

{CAUTION:

Driving across an incline that is too steep will make your vehicle roll over. You could be seriously injured or killed. If you have any doubt about the steepness of the incline, do not drive across it. Find another route instead.

(cid:127) A hill that can be driven straight up or down

may be too steep to drive across. When you go straight up or down a hill, the length of the wheel base — the distance from the front wheels to the rear wheels — reduces the likelihood the vehicle will tumble end over end. But when you drive across an incline, the much more narrow track width — the distance between the left and right wheels — may not prevent the vehicle from tilting and rolling over. Also, driving across an incline puts more weight on the downhill wheels. This could cause a downhill slide or a rollover.

4-24

Stalling on an Incline

{CAUTION:

Getting out on the downhill (low) side of a vehicle stopped across an incline is dangerous. If the vehicle rolls over, you could be crushed or killed. Always get out on the uphill (high) side of the vehicle and stay well clear of the rollover path.

If your vehicle stalls when you are crossing an incline, be sure you, and any passengers, get out on the uphill side, even if the door there is harder to open. If you get out on the downhill side and the vehicle starts to roll over, you will be right in its path. If you have to walk down the slope, stay out of the path the vehicle will take if it does roll over.

Driving in Mud, Sand, Snow, or Ice When you drive in mud, snow, or sand, the wheels will not get good traction. You cannot accelerate as quickly, turning is more difficult, and you will need longer braking distances. It is best to use a low gear when you are in mud — the deeper the mud, the lower the gear. In really deep mud, the idea is to keep your vehicle moving so you do not get stuck. When you drive on sand, you will sense a change in wheel traction. But it will depend upon how loosely packed the sand is. On loosely packed sand, such as on beaches or sand dunes, your tires will tend to sink into the sand. This has an effect on steering, accelerating, and braking. Drive at a reduced speed and avoid sharp turns or abrupt maneuvers.

4-25

Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire traction. On these surfaces, it is very easy to lose control. On wet ice, for example, the traction is so poor that you will have difficulty accelerating. And, if you do get moving, poor steering and difficult braking can cause you to slide out of control.

Driving in Water

{CAUTION:

{CAUTION:

Driving on frozen lakes, ponds, or rivers can be dangerous. Underwater springs, currents under the ice, or sudden thaws can weaken the ice. Your vehicle could fall through the ice and you and your passengers could drown. Drive your vehicle on safe surfaces only.

Driving through rushing water can be dangerous. Deep water can sweep your vehicle downstream and you and your passengers could drown. If it is only shallow water, it can still wash away the ground from under your tires, and you could lose traction and roll the vehicle over. Do not drive through rushing water.

Heavy rain can mean ﬂash ﬂooding, and ﬂood waters demand extreme caution. Find out how deep the water is before you drive through it. If it is deep enough to cover the wheel hubs, axles, or exhaust pipe, do not try it — you probably will not get through. Also, water that deep can damage the axle and other vehicle parts.

4-26

If the water is not too deep, drive slowly through it. At faster speeds, water splashes on the ignition system and your vehicle can stall. Stalling can also occur if you get the tailpipe under water. And, as long as the tailpipe is under water, you will never be able to start the engine. When you go through water, remember that when the brakes get wet, it may take you longer to stop. See Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads on page 4-28 for more information on driving through water. After Off-Road Driving Remove any brush or debris that has collected on the underbody, chassis, or under the hood. These accumulations can be a ﬁre hazard. After operation in mud or sand, have the brake linings cleaned and checked. These substances can cause glazing and uneven braking. Check the body structure, steering, suspension, wheels, tires, and exhaust system for damage. Also, check the fuel lines and cooling system for any leakage. Your vehicle will require more frequent service due to off-road use. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule for additional information.

Driving at Night Night driving is more dangerous than day driving because some drivers are likely to be impaired — by alcohol or drugs, with night vision problems, or by fatigue. Night driving tips include: (cid:127) Drive defensively. (cid:127) Do not drink and drive. (cid:127) Reduce headlamp glare by adjusting the inside

rearview mirror.

(cid:127) Slow down and keep more space between you and other vehicles because headlamps can only light up so much road ahead.

(cid:127) Watch for animals. (cid:127) When tired, pull off the road. (cid:127) Do not wear sunglasses. (cid:127) Avoid staring directly into approaching headlamps. (cid:127) Keep the windshield and all glass on your vehicle

clean — inside and out.

(cid:127) Keep your eyes moving, especially during turns or

curves.

4-27

CAUTION:

(Continued)

Flowing or rushing water creates strong forces. Driving through ﬂowing water could cause your vehicle to be carried away. If this happens, you and other vehicle occupants could drown. Do not ignore police warnings and be very cautious about trying to drive through ﬂowing water.

Hydroplaning Hydroplaning is dangerous. Water can build up under your vehicle’s tires so they actually ride on the water. This can happen if the road is wet enough and you are going fast enough. When your vehicle is hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road. There is no hard and fast rule about hydroplaning. The best advice is to slow down when the road is wet.

No one can see as well at night as in the daytime. But, as we get older, these differences increase. A 50-year-old driver might need at least twice as much light to see the same thing at night as a 20-year-old.

Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads Rain and wet roads can reduce vehicle traction and affect your ability to stop and accelerate. Always drive slower in these types of driving conditions and avoid driving through large puddles and deep-standing or ﬂowing water.

{CAUTION:

Wet brakes can cause crashes. They might not work as well in a quick stop and could cause pulling to one side. You could lose control of the vehicle. After driving through a large puddle of water or a car/vehicle wash, lightly apply the brake pedal until the brakes work normally.

CAUTION:

(Continued)

4-28

Other Rainy Weather Tips Besides slowing down, other wet weather driving tips include: (cid:127) Allow extra following distance. (cid:127) Pass with caution. (cid:127) Keep windshield wiping equipment in good shape. (cid:127) Keep the windshield washer ﬂuid reservoir ﬁlled. (cid:127) Have good tires with proper tread depth. See Tires

on page 5-51.

Before Leaving on a Long Trip To prepare your vehicle for a long trip, consider having it serviced by your dealer/retailer before departing. Things to check on your own include: (cid:127) Windshield Washer Fluid: Reservoir full? Windows

clean — inside and outside?

(cid:127) Wiper Blades: In good shape?

(cid:127) Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: All levels checked? (cid:127) Lamps: Do they all work and are lenses clean? (cid:127) Tires: Are treads good? Are tires inﬂated to

recommended pressure?

(cid:127) Weather and Maps: Safe to travel? Have

up-to-date maps?

Highway Hypnosis Always be alert and pay attention to your surroundings while driving. If you become tired or sleepy, ﬁnd a safe place to park your vehicle and rest. Other driving tips include: (cid:127) Keep the vehicle well ventilated. (cid:127) Keep interior temperature cool. (cid:127) Keep your eyes moving — scan the road ahead

and to the sides.

(cid:127) Check the rearview mirror and vehicle instruments

often.

4-29

Hill and Mountain Roads Driving on steep hills or through mountains is different than driving on ﬂat or rolling terrain. Tips for driving in these conditions include: (cid:127) Keep your vehicle serviced and in good shape. (cid:127) Check all ﬂuid levels and brakes, tires, cooling

system, and transmission.

(cid:127) Going down steep or long hills, shift to a

lower gear.

{CAUTION:

If you do not shift down, the brakes could get so hot that they would not work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Shift down to let the engine assist the brakes on a steep downhill slope.

{CAUTION:

Coasting downhill in NEUTRAL (N) or with the ignition off is dangerous. The brakes will have to do all the work of slowing down and they could get so hot that they would not work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Always have the engine running and your vehicle in gear when you go downhill.

(cid:127) Stay in your own lane. Do not swing wide or cut

across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let you stay in your own lane.

(cid:127) Top of hills: Be alert — something could be in your

lane (stalled car, accident).

(cid:127) Pay attention to special road signs (falling rocks

area, winding roads, long grades, passing or no-passing zones) and take appropriate action.

4-30

Winter Driving Here are some tips for winter driving: (cid:127) Have your vehicle in good shape for winter. (cid:127) You might want to put winter emergency supplies in

your vehicle.

Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a supply of windshield washer ﬂuid, a rag, some winter outer clothing, a small shovel, a ﬂashlight, a red cloth, and reﬂective warning triangles. And, if you will be driving under severe conditions, include a small bag of sand, a piece of old carpet, or a couple of burlap bags to help provide traction. Be sure you properly secure these items in your vehicle. Also see Tires on page 5-51. Driving on Snow or Ice Most of the time, those places where the tires meet the road probably have good traction. However, if there is snow or ice between the tires and the road, you can have a very slippery situation. You have a lot less traction, or grip, and need to be very careful.

What is the worst time for this? Wet ice. Very cold snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice can be even more trouble because it can offer the least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it is about freezing, 32°F (0°C), and freezing rain begins to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews can get there. Whatever the condition — smooth ice, packed, blowing, or loose snow — drive with caution.

4-31

Accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction. If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and polish the surface under the tires even more. The Antilock Brake System (ABS) improves your vehicle’s stability when you make a hard stop on a slippery road. Even though you have ABS, begin stopping sooner than you would on dry pavement. See Antilock Brake System (ABS) on page 4-6. (cid:127) Allow greater following distance on any

slippery road.

(cid:127) Watch for slippery spots. The road might be ﬁne until you hit a spot that is covered with ice. On an otherwise clear road, ice patches can appear in shaded areas where the sun cannot reach, such as around clumps of trees, behind buildings, or under bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass can remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you are on it. Try not to brake while you are actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers.

If You Are Caught in a Blizzard If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a serious situation. You should probably stay with your vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near help and you can hike through the snow. Here are some things to do to summon help and keep yourself and your passengers safe: (cid:127) Turn on the hazard warning ﬂashers. (cid:127) Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police that you

have been stopped by the snow.

(cid:127) Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around you. If you do not have blankets or extra clothing, make body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags, ﬂoor mats — anything you can wrap around yourself or tuck under your clothing to keep warm.

4-32

You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.

{CAUTION:

Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you. You cannot see it or smell it, so you might not know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking the exhaust pipe. And check around again from time to time to be sure snow does not collect there. Open a window just a little on the side of the vehicle that is away from the wind. This will help keep CO out.

Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps the battery charged. You will need a well-charged battery to restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with the headlamps. Let the heater run for a while.

4-33

Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again and repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or so until help comes.

If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand, Mud, Ice, or Snow Slowly and cautiously spin the wheels to free your vehicle when stuck in sand, mud, ice, or snow. See Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out on page 4-35. If your vehicle has a traction system, it can often help to free a stuck vehicle. Refer to your vehicle’s traction system in the Index. If the stuck condition is too severe for the traction system to free the vehicle, turn the traction system off and use the rocking method.

{CAUTION:

If you let your vehicle’s tires spin at high speed, they can explode, and you or others could be injured. The vehicle can overheat, causing an engine compartment ﬁre or other damage. Spin the wheels as little as possible and avoid going above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.

For information about using tire chains on your vehicle, see Tire Chains on page 5-74.

4-34

Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out First, turn the steering wheel left and right to clear the area around the front wheels. Turn off any traction or stability system. See Traction Control System (TCS) on page 4-7 and Electronic Stability Program on page 4-8. Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear, or with a manual transmission, between FIRST (1) or SECOND (2) and REVERSE (R), spinning the wheels as little as possible. To prevent transmission wear, wait until the wheels stop spinning before shifting gears. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear. By slowly spinning the wheels in the forward and reverse directions, you will cause a rocking motion that could free your vehicle. If that does not get your vehicle out after a few tries, it might need to be towed out. If your vehicle does need to be towed out, see Towing Your Vehicle on page 4-41.

Loading Your Vehicle It is very important to know how much weight your vehicle can carry. This weight is called the vehicle capacity weight and includes the weight of all occupants, cargo, and all nonfactory-installed options. Two labels on your vehicle show how much weight it may properly carry, the Tire and Loading Information label and the Certiﬁcation/Tire label.

{CAUTION:

Do not load the vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on the vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of the vehicle.

4-35

The Tire and Loading Information label also shows the size of the original equipment tires (C) and the recommended cold tire inﬂation pressures (D). For more information on tires and inﬂation see Tires on page 5-51 and Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-58. There is also important loading information on the vehicle Certiﬁcation/Tire label. It tells you the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) and the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for the front and rear axle. See “Certiﬁcation/Tire Label” later in this section. Steps for Determining Correct Load Limit 1. Locate the statement “The combined weight

of occupants and cargo should never exceed XXX lbs” on your vehicle’s placard.

2. Determine the combined weight of the driver

and passengers that will be riding in your vehicle.

3. Subtract the combined weight of the driver and passengers from XXX kg or XXX lbs.

Tire and Loading Information Label

Example Label

A vehicle speciﬁc Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the center pillar (B-pillar). With the driver’s door open, you will ﬁnd the label attached below the door lock post (striker). The tire and loading information label shows the number of occupant seating positions (A), and the maximum vehicle capacity weight (B) in kilograms and pounds.

4-36

4. The resulting ﬁgure equals the available

amount of cargo and luggage load capacity. For example, if the “XXX” amount equals 1,400 lbs and there will be ﬁve 150 lb passengers in your vehicle, the amount of available cargo and luggage load capacity is 650 lbs (1,400 − 750 (5 x 150) = 650 lbs). 5. Determine the combined weight of luggage and cargo being loaded on the vehicle. That weight may not safely exceed the available cargo and luggage load capacity calculated in Step 4.

6. If your vehicle will be towing a trailer, the load

from your trailer will be transferred to your vehicle. Consult this manual to determine how this reduces the available cargo and luggage load capacity of your vehicle.

See Towing a Trailer on page 4-44 for important information on towing a trailer, towing safety rules and trailering tips.

Example 1

Item

Description Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 1 = Subtract Occupant Weight 150 lbs (68 kg) × 2 = Available Occupant and Cargo Weight =

Total

1,000 lbs (453 kg)

300 lbs (136 kg)

700 lbs (317 kg)

4-37

Example 2

Example 3

Item

Description Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 2 = Subtract Occupant Weight 150 lbs (68 kg) × 5 = Available Occupant and Cargo Weight =

Total

1,000 lbs (453 kg)

750 lbs (340 kg)

250 lbs (113 kg)

Item

Description Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 3 = Subtract Occupant Weight 200 lbs (91 kg) × 5 = Available Occupant and Cargo Weight =

Total

1,000 lbs (453 kg)

1,000 lbs (453 kg)

0 lbs (0 kg)

Refer to your vehicle’s tire and loading information label for speciﬁc information about your vehicle’s capacity weight and seating positions.

4-38

The combined weight of the driver, passengers and cargo should never exceed your vehicle’s maximum vehicle capacity weight. Certiﬁcation/Tire Label

capacity of your vehicle. This is called the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel, cargo, and trailer tongue weight, if your vehicle is pulling a trailer. The Certiﬁcation/Tire label also tells you the maximum weights for the front and rear axles, called Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). To ﬁnd out the actual loads on your front and rear axles, you need to go to a weigh station and weigh your vehicle. Your dealer/retailer can help you with this. Be sure to spread out your load equally on both sides of the centerline. Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle, or the GAWR for either the front or rear axle.

A vehicle speciﬁc Certiﬁcation/Tire label is attached to the lower area of the center pillar (B-pillar). The label shows the gross weight

4-39

Similar looking vehicles may have different GVWRs and payloads. Please consult your vehicle’s Certiﬁcation/Tire label or your retailer for additional details.

If you put things inside your vehicle — like suitcases, tools, packages, or anything else — they will go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they will keep going.

{CAUTION:

Do not load the vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on the vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of the vehicle.

Using heavier suspension components to get added durability might not change your vehicle’s weight ratings. Ask your dealer/retailer to help you load your vehicle correctly if you are using these components. Notice: Overloading your vehicle may cause damage. Repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not overload your vehicle.

4-40

{CAUTION:

Things you put inside your vehicle can strike and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or in a crash.

(cid:127) Put things in the cargo area of your

vehicle. Try to spread the weight evenly.

(cid:127) Never stack heavier things, like

suitcases, inside the vehicle so that some of them are above the tops of the seats.

(cid:127) Do not leave an unsecured child

restraint in your vehicle.

(cid:127) When you carry something inside the vehicle, secure it whenever you can.

(cid:127) Do not leave a seat folded down

unless you need to.

Towing

Towing Your Vehicle To avoid vehicle damage, a platform or ﬂatbed trailer should be used to transport this vehicle. Consult your dealer/retailer or a professional towing service if you need to have your disabled vehicle towed. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-7. If you want to tow your vehicle behind another vehicle for recreational purposes (such as behind a motorhome), see “Recreational Vehicle Towing” following.

Recreational Vehicle Towing Recreational vehicle towing means towing your vehicle behind another vehicle – such as behind a motorhome. The two most common types of recreational vehicle towing are known as “dinghy towing” (towing your vehicle with all four wheels on the ground) and “dolly towing” (towing your vehicle with two wheels on the ground and two wheels up on a device known as a “dolly”).

With the proper preparation and equipment, many vehicles can be towed in these ways. See “Dinghy Towing” and “Dolly Towing” following in this section. Here are some important things to consider before you do recreational vehicle towing: (cid:127) What’s the towing capacity of the towing vehicle? Be sure you read the tow vehicle manufacturer’s recommendations.

(cid:127) How far will you tow? Some vehicles have

restrictions on how far and how long they can tow.

(cid:127) Do you have the proper towing equipment?

See your dealer/retailer or trailering professional for additional advice and equipment recommendations.

(cid:127) Is your vehicle ready to be towed? Just as you would prepare your vehicle for a long trip, you’ll want to make sure your vehicle is prepared to be towed. See Before Leaving on a Long Trip on page 4-29.

4-41

Dinghy Towing Front-wheel-drive and all-wheel-drive vehicles may be dinghy towed from the front. You can also tow these vehicles by placing them on a platform trailer with all four wheels off of the ground. For other towing options, see “Dolly Towing” following in this section. For vehicles being dinghy towed, the vehicle should be run at the beginning of each day and at each RV fuel stop for about ﬁve minutes. This will ensure proper lubrication of transmission components.

4-42

To tow your vehicle from the front with all four wheels on the ground: 1. Position and attach the vehicle to tow it behind the

recreational vehicle.

2. Turn the ignition key to ACC/ACCESSORY. 3. Shift the transmission to NEUTRAL (N). 4. Turn fog lamps and all accessories off. 5. Remove the IGN SW fuse from the Instrument Panel Fuse Block. See Instrument Panel Fuse Block on page 5-97.

If you tow your vehicle without performing

Notice: each of the steps listed under “Dinghy Towing,” you could damage the automatic transmission. Be sure to follow all steps of the dinghy towing procedure prior to and after towing your vehicle. Notice: If your vehicle has a four-speed automatic transmission, it can be dinghy towed from the front for unlimited miles at 65 mph (105 km/h). If you exceed 65 mph (105 km/h) while towing your vehicle, it could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Never exceed 65 mph (105 km/h) while towing your vehicle. Once you have reached your destination: 1. Set the parking brake. 2. Shift the transmission to PARK (P).

3. Reinstall the IGN SW fuse into the Instrument

Panel Fuse Block.

4. Turn the ignition key to LOCK/OFF and remove the

key from the ignition.

Notice: Too much or too little ﬂuid can damage the transmission. Be sure that the transmission ﬂuid is at the proper level before towing with all four wheels on the ground. Notice: Don’t tow a vehicle with the front drive wheels on the ground if one of the front tires is a compact spare tire. Towing with two different tire sizes on the front of the vehicle can cause severe damage to the transmission. Dolly Towing (All-Wheel-Drive Vehicles) All-wheel-drive vehicles should not be towed with two wheels on the ground. To properly tow these vehicles, they should be placed on a platform trailer with all four wheels off of the ground or dinghy towed from the front. Dolly Towing (Front-Wheel-Drive Vehicles) Front-wheel-drive VUE Red Line vehicles should not be towed with two wheels on the ground. To properly tow these vehicles, they should be placed on a platform trailer with all four wheels off of the ground or dinghy towed from the front.

To tow your front-wheel-drive vehicle from the front with two wheels on the ground, do the following: 1. Put the front wheels on a dolly. 2. Move the shift lever to PARK (P). 3. Set the parking brake and then remove the key. 4. Clamp the steering wheel in a straight-ahead

position with a clamping device designed for towing.

5. Secure the vehicle to the dolly. 6. Release the parking brake.

4-43

Towing Your Vehicle From the Rear

Towing a Trailer

{CAUTION:

If you do not use the correct equipment and drive properly, you can lose control when you pull a trailer. For example, if the trailer is too heavy, the brakes may not work well — or even at all. You and your passengers could be seriously injured. You may also damage your vehicle; the resulting repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Pull a trailer only if you have followed all the steps in this section. Ask your dealer/retailer for advice and information about towing a trailer with your vehicle.

Notice: Pulling a trailer improperly can damage your vehicle and result in costly repairs not covered by your warranty. To pull a trailer correctly, follow the advice in this part and see your dealer/retailer for important information about towing a trailer with your vehicle.

Notice: Towing your vehicle from the rear could damage it. Also, repairs would not be covered by the warranty. Never have your vehicle towed from the rear. Do not tow your vehicle from the rear.

4-44

Your vehicle can tow a trailer if it is equipped with the proper trailer towing equipment. To identify the trailering capacity of your vehicle, you should read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this section. Trailering is different than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, acceleration, braking, durability and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly. That is the reason for this part. In it are many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before you pull a trailer. Load-pulling components such as the engine, transmission, rear axle, wheel assemblies and tires are forced to work harder against the drag of the added weight. The engine is required to operate at relatively higher speeds and under greater loads, generating extra heat. What’s more, the trailer adds considerably to wind resistance, increasing the pulling requirements. If You Do Decide to Pull a Trailer If you do, here are some important points: (cid:127) There are many different laws, including speed limit

restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure your rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you will be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police.

(cid:127) Do not tow a trailer at all during the ﬁrst 500 miles (805 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine, axle or other parts could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty.

(cid:127) Then, during the ﬁrst 500 miles (805 km) that you tow

a trailer, do not drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and do not make starts at full throttle. This helps your engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the heavier loads.

(cid:127) You may want to shift to a lower gear selection if the transmission shifts too often (e.g., under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions). Using a lower gear will minimize heat buildup and extend the life of your transmission.

(cid:127) Obey speed limit restrictions when towing a trailer. Do not drive faster than the maximum posted speed for trailers, or no more than 55 mph (90 km/h), to save wear on your vehicle’s parts.

(cid:127) Do not tow a trailer when the outside temperature is

above 100°F (38°C).

Three important considerations have to do with weight: (cid:127) the weight of the trailer (cid:127) the weight of the trailer tongue (cid:127) and the total weight on your vehicle’s tires

4-45

Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. It can also depend on any special equipment that you have on your vehicle, and the amount of tongue weight the vehicle can carry. See “Weight of the Trailer Tongue” later in this section for more information.

Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming only the driver is in the tow vehicle and it has all the required trailering equipment. The weight of additional optional equipment, passengers and cargo must be subtracted from the maximum trailer weight. Look in the following chart to ﬁnd the maximum trailer weight for your vehicle.

Vehicle

Axle Ratio

Max. Trailer Wt.

*GCWR

2WD (2.4L L4 Engine)

2WD (3.6L V6 Engine)

AWD (3.5L V6 Engine)

AWD (3.6L V6 Engine)**

3.91

2.77

2.77

2.77

1,500 lbs (680 kg)

5,375 lbs (2 438 kg)

3,500 lbs (1 588 kg)

7,800 lbs (3 538 kg)

3,500 lbs (1 588 kg)

8,000 lbs (3 629 kg)

3,500 lbs (1 588 kg)

8,000 lbs (3 629 kg)

*The Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR) is the total allowable weight of the completely loaded vehicle and trailer including any passengers, cargo, equipment and conversion. The GCWR for your vehicle should not be exceeded. **The VUE Red Line should not be used to tow a trailer.

You can ask your dealer/retailer for trailering information or advice.

4-46

Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total or gross weight of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. If you have a lot of options, equipment, passengers or cargo in your vehicle, it will reduce the tongue weight your vehicle can carry, which will also reduce the trailer weight your vehicle can tow. And if you tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load to the GVW because your vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-35
for more information about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.

If you are using a weight-carrying hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 10 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B). If you are using a weight-distributing hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 12 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B). After you have loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they are not, you may be able to get them right simply by moving some items around in the trailer. Trailering may be limited by the vehicle’s ability to carry tongue weight. Tongue weight cannot cause the vehicle to exceed the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) or the RGAWR (Rear Gross Axle Weight Rating). The effect of additional weight may reduce your trailering capacity more than the total of the additional weight.

4-47

Consider the following example: A vehicle model base weight is 5,500 lbs (2 495 kg); 2,800 lbs (1 270 kg) at the front axle and 2,700 lbs (1 225 kg) at the rear axle. It has a GVWR of 7,200 lbs (3 266 kg), a RGAWR of 4,000 lbs (1 814 kg) and a GCWR (Gross Combination Weight Rating) of 14,000 lbs (6 350 kg). The trailer rating should be:

But let us say your speciﬁc vehicle is equipped with some of the latest options and you have a front seat passenger and two rear seat passengers with some luggage and gear in the vehicle as well. You may add 300 lbs (136 kg) to the front axle weight and 400 lbs (181 kg) to the rear axle weight. Your vehicle now weighs:

You can expect tongue weight to be at least 10 percent of trailer weight (850 lbs (386 kg)) and because the weight is applied well behind the rear axle, the effect on the rear axle will be greater than just the weight itself, as much as 1.5 times as much. The weight at the rear axle could be 850 lbs (386 kg) X 1.5 = 1,275 lbs (578 kg). Since the rear axle already weighs 2,700 lbs (1 225 kg), adding 1,275 lbs (578 kg) brings the total to 3,975 lbs (1 803 kg). This is very close to, but within the limit for RGAWR as well. The vehicle is set to trailer up to 8,500 lbs (3 856 kg).

Weight is still below 7,200 lbs (3 266 kg) and you may think that you should subtract 700 additional pounds (318 kg) from your trailering capacity to stay within GCWR limits. Your maximum trailer would only be 7,800 lbs (3 538 kg). You may go further and think you must limit tongue weight to less than 1,000 lbs (454 kg) to avoid exceeding GVWR. But, you must still consider the effect on the rear axle. Because your rear axle now weighs 3,100 lbs (1 406 kg), you can only put 900 lbs (408 kg) on the rear axle without exceeding RGAWR.

4-48

The effect of tongue weight is about 1.5 times the actual weight. Dividing the 900 lbs (408 kg) by 1.5 leaves you with being able to handle only 600 lbs (272 kg) of tongue weight. Since tongue weight is usually at least 10 percent of total loaded trailer weight, you can expect that the largest trailer your vehicle can properly handle is 6,000 lbs (2 721 kg). It is important that you make sure your vehicle does not exceed any of its ratings — GCWR, GVWR, RGAWR, Maximum Trailer Rating or Tongue Weight. The only way to be sure you are not exceeding any of these ratings is to weigh your vehicle and trailer. Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inﬂated to the upper limit for cold tires. You will ﬁnd these numbers on the Tire and Loading Information label. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-35. Then be sure you do not go over the GVW limit for your vehicle or the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR), including the weight of the trailer tongue.

Hitches It is important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a few reasons why you will need the right hitch. Here are some rules to follow: (cid:127) The rear bumper on your vehicle is not intended

for hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or other bumper-type hitches to it. Use only a frame-mounted hitch that does not attach to the bumper.

Boost Classifieds - Car Advice, Reviews, Events & Classifieds

2008 Saturn VUE Owners Manual