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H. Engine Oil Dipstick (out of view). Engine Oil on


page 5-13.


Engine Oil Checking Engine Oil It is a good idea to check the engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground. The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine oil dipstick. 1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you do not do this, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.


2. Pull the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down and check the level.


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When to Add Engine Oil


See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12
for the location of the engine oil fill cap.


If the oil is below the MIN (minimum) mark, add at least one quart/liter of the recommended oil. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Specifications on page 5-98. Notice: Do not add too much oil. If the engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the upper mark that shows the proper operating range, the engine could be damaged.


Be sure to add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you are through.


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What Kind of Engine Oil to Use


These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50.


(cid:127) American Petroleum Institute (API) starburst symbol


Oils meeting these requirements should have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API).


Look for three things: (cid:127) GM6094M


Your vehicle’s engine requires oil meeting GM Standard GM6094M. Look for and use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM6094M.


(cid:127) SAE 5W-30


As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle.


Look for this information on the oil container, and use only those oils that are identified as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and have the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. Notice: Use only engine oil identified as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and showing the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty.


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When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it will indicate that an oil change is necessary. A change engine oil light will come on. See Change Engine Oil Light on page 3-39. Change the oil as soon as possible within the next 600 miles (1 000 km). It is possible that, if you are driving under the best conditions, the oil life system might not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, the engine oil and filter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. Your dealer/retailer has trained service people who will perform this work using genuine parts and reset the system. It is also important to check the oil regularly and keep it at the proper level. If the system is ever reset accidentally, you must change the oil at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since your last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed.


If you are in an area of extreme cold, where the temperature falls below −20°F (−29°C), it is recommended that you use either an SAE 5W-30
synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both provide easier cold starting and better protection for the engine at extremely low temperatures. Engine Oil Additives Do not add anything to the oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol that meet GM Standard GM6094M are all you need for good performance and engine protection.


Engine Oil Life System When to Change Engine Oil Your vehicle has a computer system that lets you know when to change the engine oil and filter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change will be indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, you must reset the system every time the oil is changed.


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How to Reset the Engine Oil Life System The Engine Oil Life System calculates when to change the engine oil and filter based on vehicle use. Whenever the oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where you change the oil prior to a change engine oil light being turned on, reset the system. After changing the engine oil, reset the system: 1. Turn the ignition key to ON/RUN with the engine off. 2. Fully press and release the accelerator pedal three


times within five seconds. If the change engine oil light is not on, the system is reset.


If the light comes on again and stays on for 30 seconds at the next ignition cycle, it did not reset. You will need to reset the system again.


What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that can be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the filter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of used oil, ask your dealer/retailer, a service station, or a local recycling center for help.


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Engine Air Cleaner/Filter See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine air cleaner/filter. When to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Inspect the air cleaner/filter at the Maintenance II intervals and replace it at the first oil change after each 50,000 mile (80 000 km) interval. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 for more information. If you are driving in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect the filter at each engine oil change. How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter To inspect the air cleaner/filter remove the filter from the vehicle and lightly shake the filter to release loose dust and dirt. If the filter remains caked with dirt, a new filter is required.


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To inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/filter, do the following:


1. Unscrew the clamp on


the air duct hose.


2. Disconnect the hose. 3. Unscrew the four bolts on the side of the air cleaner


assembly.


4. Turn the cover upward to disengage the cover


hinges.


5. Remove the air cleaner cover assembly and air


filter element.


6. Inspect or replace the air filter element.


If the air filter element is dirty, you should replace it. If it is only dusty, it may be cleaned by blowing compressed air through it from the clean side. Make sure you are away from the engine compartment when cleaning the air filter with compressed air. Wipe all dust from inside of the housing and inspect the air cleaner and air outlet duct for cracks, cuts and deterioration. The air outlet duct must be replaced if damaged.


7. Reverse Steps 1 through 5 to reinstall the engine


air cleaner/filter cover and air duct hose.


{CAUTION:


Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps to stop flames if the engine backfires. If it is not there and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.


If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire can


Notice: cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you are driving.


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Automatic Transmission Fluid It is not necessary to check the transmission fluid level. A transaxle fluid leak is the only reason for fluid loss. If a leak occurs, take the vehicle to your dealer/retailer service department and have it repaired as soon as possible. Change the fluid and filter at the intervals listed in Additional Required Services on page 6-6, and be sure to use the transaxle fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. Notice: Use of the incorrect automatic transaxle fluid may damage your vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use the automatic transaxle fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12.


Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for five years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if you add only DEX-COOL® extended life coolant.


The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating on page 5-23. A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant will: (cid:127) Give freezing protection down to −34°F (−37°C). (cid:127) Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C). (cid:127) Protect against rust and corrosion. (cid:127) Help keep the proper engine temperature. (cid:127) Let the warning lights and gages work as they


should.


Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at the first maintenance service after each 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle.


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What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL® coolant which will not damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you do not need to add anything else.


{CAUTION:


Adding only plain water to the cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. The vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, the engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. The engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.


If you use an improper coolant mixture,


Notice: your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core, and other parts. If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer/retailer check your cooling system. Notice: If you use extra inhibitors and/or additives in your vehicle’s cooling system, you could damage your vehicle. Use only the proper mixture of the engine coolant listed in this manual for the cooling system. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12 for more information.


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Checking Coolant


The surge tank is located on the driver side of the engine compartment. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.


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{CAUTION:


Turning the surge tank pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. Never turn the surge tank pressure cap — even a little — when the engine and radiator are hot.


The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be between the MIN and MAX lines. Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture at the surge tank, but only when the engine is cool. See Engine Overheating on page 5-23
for instructions on “How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Surge Tank.”


{CAUTION:


You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.


When replacing the pressure cap, make sure it is hand-tight and fully seated.


Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap Notice: If the pressure cap is not tightly installed, coolant loss and possible engine damage may occur. Be sure the cap is properly and tightly secured. If you need to replace your coolant surge tank pressure cap, see your retailer.


Engine Overheating There is a coolant temperature warning light on your vehicle’s instrument panel. See Engine Coolant Temperature Warning Light on page 3-35.


If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine


{CAUTION:


Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool.


If your engine catches fire because you


Notice: keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty.


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If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about ten minutes. If the warning does not come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues and you have not stopped, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there is still no sign of steam, idle the engine for three minutes while you are parked. If the warning continues, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.


If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine If you get an engine overheat warning, but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: (cid:127) Climb a long hill on a hot day. (cid:127) Stop after high-speed driving. (cid:127) Idle for long periods in traffic. (cid:127) Tow a trailer. If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. If you have an air conditioner and it is on, turn it off. 2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan


speed and open the windows as necessary.


3. Try to minimize engine load. If you are in a traffic jam, shift to NEUTRAL (N); otherwise, shift to the highest gear possible while driving.


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Cooling System When you decide it is safe to lift the hood, here is what you will see:


{CAUTION:


An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan.


If the coolant inside the coolant surge tank is boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface.


A. Electric Engine Fan (Not Shown) B. Coolant Surge Tank C. Pressure Cap


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The coolant level should be between the MIN and MAX lines. If it is not, you may have a leak at the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump, or somewhere else in the cooling system.


{CAUTION:


Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.


If there seems to be no leak, with the engine on, check to see if the electric engine cooling fan is running. If the engine is overheating, the fan should be running. If it is not, your vehicle needs service. Turn off the engine. Notice: Engine damage from running the engine without coolant is not covered by the warranty.


Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant could require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by the warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in the vehicle. How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Surge Tank Notice: This vehicle has a specific coolant fill procedure. Failure to follow this procedure could cause your engine to overheat and be severely damaged. If you have not found a problem yet, check to see if coolant is visible in the surge tank. If coolant is visible but the coolant level is not at between the MIN and MAX lines, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant at the coolant surge tank, but be sure the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is cool before you do it. See Engine Coolant on page 5-20 for more information.


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{CAUTION:


{CAUTION:


Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the coolant surge tank pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and coolant surge tank pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.


Adding only plain water to the cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. The vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, the engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. The engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.


In cold weather, water can freeze and crack


Notice: the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture.


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{CAUTION:


You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.


1. You can remove the


coolant surge tank pressure cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot.


Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise about one-quarter of a turn. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. This will allow any pressure still left to be vented out the discharge hose.


2. Then keep turning the pressure cap slowly, and


remove it.


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3. Fill the coolant surge tank with the proper


DEX-COOL® coolant mixture, to between the MIN and MAX lines.


4. With the coolant surge tank pressure cap off, start the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fan. By this time, the coolant level inside the coolant surge tank may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture to the coolant surge tank until the level reaches between the MIN and MAX lines.


5. Then replace the pressure cap. Be sure the


pressure cap is hand-tight.


Check the level in the surge tank when the cooling system has cooled down. If the coolant is not at the proper level, repeat Steps 1 through 3 and reinstall the pressure cap. If the coolant still is not at the proper level when the system cools down again, see your retailer.


Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield or rear window washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing. Adding Windshield Washer Fluid


Notice: (cid:127) When using concentrated washer fluid, follow


the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.


(cid:127) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid.


Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer fluid.


(cid:127) Fill the washer fluid tank only three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for fluid expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.


(cid:127) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage the vehicle’s windshield washer system and paint.


Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer fluid until the tank is full. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for reservoir location.


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Brakes Brake Fluid


The brake master cylinder reservoir is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the reservoir.


There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake hydraulic system. If it is, have the brake hydraulic system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later the brakes will not work well.


It is not a good idea to top off the brake fluid. Adding brake fluid will not correct a leak. If fluid is added when the linings are worn, there will be too much fluid when new brake linings are installed. Add or remove brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.


{CAUTION:


If your vehicle has too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.


When the brake fluid falls to a low level, the brake warning light comes on. See Brake System Warning Light on page 3-32.


5-30


What to Add When you need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This helps keep dirt from entering the reservoir.


{CAUTION:


With the wrong kind of fluid in the brake hydraulic system, the brakes might not work well. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.


Notice: (cid:127) Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake


hydraulic system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in the brake hydraulic system can damage brake hydraulic system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid.


(cid:127) If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted


surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-82.


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Brake Wear Your vehicle has disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound can come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving, except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly.


{CAUTION:


The brake wear warning sound means that soon the brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.


Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair.


Some driving conditions or climates can cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with the brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to torque specifications in Capacities and Specifications on page 5-98. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer/retailer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign that brake service might be required. Brake Adjustment Every time you apply the brakes, with or without the vehicle moving, the brakes adjust for wear.


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Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality brake parts. When you replace parts of the braking system — for example, when the brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure you get new approved replacement parts. If you do not, the brakes might not work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between the front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance you have come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.


Battery


{CAUTION:


Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 5-34 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.


Warning: Battery posts, terminals, and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling. Your vehicle has a standard 12-volt battery and a 36-volt hybrid battery system.


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12-Volt Battery When it is time for a new standard 12-volt battery, see your dealer/retailer for one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. 36-Volt Battery System If you need a new 36-volt hybrid battery system, see your dealer/retailer. Vehicle Storage Infrequent Usage: If you drive your vehicle infrequently, remove the 12-volt battery black, negative (−) cable from the battery, the one that is exposed. This will help keep the battery from running down. Extended Storage: For extended storage of your vehicle, remove the 12-volt battery black, negative (−) cable from the battery or use a battery trickle charger. This will help maintain the charge of the battery over an extended period of time. Remember to reconnect the battery when you are ready to drive your vehicle. Notice: The 36-volt hybrid battery system should be serviced only by a qualified facility to avoid battery system damage. See your dealer/retailer if service is needed.


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If the vehicle is not driven for over


Notice: two months, the 36-volt hybrid battery can be permanently damaged. The 36-volt battery is located behind the rear seat, under the cargo floor. If the vehicle is stored for an extended period of time, drive the vehicle every two months for about half an hour to keep the 36-volt hybrid battery charged and in good working condition.


Jump Starting Your hybrid vehicle has a standard 12-volt battery in the engine compartment, and a 36-volt battery under the rear load floor.


{CAUTION:


Personal injury or damage to the vehicle can result if you try jump starting or using a battery charger on the 36-volt battery. Use only the 12-volt battery for jump starting and charging.


If your vehicle’s standard 12-volt battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely.


{CAUTION:


Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:


(cid:127) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:127) They contain gas that can explode or


(cid:127) They contain enough electricity to


ignite.


burn you.


If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.


Ignoring these steps could result in costly


Notice: damage to your vehicle that would not be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage your vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt


battery with a negative ground system.


If the other vehicle’s system is not a 12-volt


Notice: system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transaxle in PARK (P) or a manual transaxle in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake.


If you leave your radio or other accessories


Notice: on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and other accessories when jump starting your vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug


unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or the accessory power outlet. Turn off the radio and all lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save the radio!


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4. Open each vehicle’s hood and locate the


positive (+) and negative (−) terminal locations of the other vehicle. Your vehicle has a remote positive (+) 12-volt jump starting terminal and a remote negative (−) jump starting terminal. You should always use these remote terminals instead of the terminals on the battery. The remote positive (+) terminal is located inside the junction box located above the engine cover. To access the remote positive (+) terminal, unlatch the box cover.


{CAUTION:


Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you do not, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.


5. The remote negative (−) terminal is a stud on the driver side near the underhood fuse block.


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{CAUTION:


An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.


{CAUTION:


Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.


6. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables to the other vehicle, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will


go to positive (+) or to a remote positive terminal (+) if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal, if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too.


7. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the remote


positive (+) terminal of your hybrid vehicle.


8. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the other vehicle has one.


9. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to your vehicle’s remote negative (−) terminal. The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less.


10. Try to start the hybrid vehicle.


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If the jumper cables are connected or


Notice: removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always connect and remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal.


To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the


vehicle that had the dead battery.


2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the


vehicle with the good battery.


3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the


vehicle with the good battery.


4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the


other vehicle.


5. Close the remote positive junction box cover.


Jumper Cable Removal


A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or Remote


Negative (−) Terminal


B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and Remote


Negative (−) Terminals


C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal


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Headlamp Aiming The headlamp aiming system has been preset at the factory. If the vehicle is damaged in an accident, the aim of the headlamps may be affected and adjustment may be necessary. It is recommended that a dealer/retailer adjust the headlamps. To re-aim the headlamps yourself, use the following procedure. The vehicle should be properly prepared as follows: (cid:127) The vehicle should be placed so the headlamps are


25 ft. (7.6 m) from a light colored wall.


(cid:127) The vehicle must have all four tires on a level surface which is level all the way to the wall.


(cid:127) The vehicle should be placed so it is perpendicular


to the wall or other flat surface.


(cid:127) The vehicle should not have any snow, ice, or mud


on it.


(cid:127) The vehicle should be fully assembled and all


other work stopped while headlamp aiming is being performed.


(cid:127) The vehicle should be normally loaded with a full


tank of fuel and one person or 160 lbs (75 kg) sitting on the driver’s seat.


(cid:127) Tires should be properly inflated.


Headlamp aiming is done with the vehicle’s low-beam headlamps. The high-beam headlamps will be correctly aimed if the low-beam headlamps are aimed properly. To adjust the vertical aim, do the following: 1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on page 5-11


for more information.


2. Locate the aim dot on the lens of the low-beam


headlamp.


3. Measure the distance from the ground to the aim


dot on the low-beam headlamp. Record the distance.


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4. At the wall measure from the ground upward (A) to


the recorded distance from Step 3 and mark it.


5. Draw or tape a horizontal line (B) on the wall the


width of the vehicle at the height of the mark in Step 4.


Notice: Do not cover a headlamp to improve beam cut-off when aiming. Covering a headlamp may cause excessive heat build-up which may cause damage to the headlamp. 6. Turn on the low-beam headlamps and place a piece of cardboard or equivalent in front of the headlamp not being adjusted. This allows only the beam of light from the headlamp being adjusted to be seen on the flat surface.


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7. Locate the vertical headlamp aiming screws, which are under the hood near each headlamp assembly. The adjustment screw can be turned with a E8 Torx® socket.


8. Turn the vertical aiming screw until the headlamp beam is aimed to the horizontal tape line. Turn it clockwise or counterclockwise to raise or lower the angle of the beam.


9. Make sure that the light from the headlamp is


positioned at the bottom edge of the horizontal tape line. The lamp on the left (A) shows the correct headlamp aim. The lamp on the right (B) shows the incorrect headlamp aim.


10. Repeat Steps 7 through 9 for the opposite


headlamp.


Bulb Replacement For the proper type of replacement bulbs, see Replacement Bulbs on page 5-45. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer/retailer.


Halogen Bulbs


{CAUTION:


Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.


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Headlamps To replace one of the headlamp bulbs, use the following procedure. To replace the parking/turn signal lamp bulb, see Front Turn Signal and Parking Lamps on page 5-43. 1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on page 5-11


for more information.


2. Remove the two screws from the top of the front


fascia and grille. They are inboard of the headlamp assembly.


3. Remove the three screws retaining the headlamp


assembly.


4. Insert a flat blade tool through the opening in the top. Make sure the tool fits through the opening in the headlamp bracket lower arm.


5. Push the locking tab toward the rear of the vehicle with the tool to lift the headlamp bracket lower arm.


6. Pull back on the front fascia and then pull the


headlamp assembly out from the vehicle. Another person might be needed to assist with this step.


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7. Disconnect the electrical connector from the bulb


assembly.


8. Turn the bulb assembly counterclockwise to remove


it from the housing.


9. Replace the old bulb with a new one. 10. Reverse Steps 1 through 8 to reinstall.


Front Turn Signal and Parking Lamps To replace a front turn signal or parking lamp bulb: 1. Follow Steps 1 through 6 under Headlamps on page 5-42 to access the front turn signal or parking lamp.


3. Pull the bulb out of the bulb socket assembly. 4. Push the new bulb into the bulb socket assembly. 5. Insert the bulb assembly into the headlamp


assembly.


6. Turn the bulb assembly clockwise until seated. 7. Reverse the steps to reinstall the headlamp


assembly.


2. Turn the bulb to be replaced counterclockwise to


remove it from the headlamp assembly.


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Taillamps, Turn Signal, Stoplamps and Back-up Lamps To replace one of these bulbs:


A. Taillamp/Stoplamp B. Turn Signal Lamp C. Back-up Lamp


1. Open the liftgate.


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2. Remove the two screws holding in the taillamp


assembly.


3. Slide the taillamp assembly rearward and away


from the vehicle.


4. Turn the bulb socket being replaced


counterclockwise to disconnect it.


5. Pull the bulb out of the bulb socket. 6. Push the new bulb into the bulb socket. 7. Reverse Steps 2 through 4 to reinstall the taillamp


assembly.


License Plate Lamp To replace one of these bulbs: 1. Remove the two screws holding each of the license


plate lamps to the fascia.


3. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and pull the


bulb straight out of the socket.


4. Install the new bulb. 5. Reverse Steps 1 through 3 to reinstall the license


plate lamp.


2. Turn and pull the license plate lamp forward


through the fascia opening.


Replacement Bulbs


Exterior Lamp


Bulb Number


Back-up Lamp Front Turn Signal/Parking Headlamps


High-beam Low-beam/DRL


Rear Turn Signal, Stoplamp and Taillamp


3156
3157K


9005 or HB3
9006 or HB4


3057


For replacement bulbs not listed here, contact your dealer/retailer.


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Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected for wear and cracking. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4
for more information. Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. For proper type and length, see Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 6-13. To replace the windshield wiper blade assembly do the following:


1. Lift the wiper arm away from the windshield.


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2. Push the release lever (B) to disengage the hook and push the wiper arm (A) out of the blade (C). 3. Push the new wiper blade securely on the wiper


arm until you hear the release lever click into place.


To replace the rear wiper blade, lift the rear wiper arm from the window and pull the blade.


Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your vehicle Warranty booklet for details.


{CAUTION:


Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous.


(cid:127) Overloading your vehicle’s tires can cause overheating as a result of too much flexing. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-22.


CAUTION:


(Continued)


CAUTION:


(Continued)


(cid:127) Underinflated tires pose the same


danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your vehicle’s tires are cold. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-52.


(cid:127) Overinflated tires are more likely to


be cut, punctured, or broken by a sudden impact — such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure.


(cid:127) Worn, old tires can cause accidents.


If the tire’s tread is badly worn, or if your vehicle’s tires have been damaged, replace them.


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Tire Sidewall Labeling Useful information about a tire is molded into the sidewall. The following illustration is an example of a typical P-Metric tire sidewall.


(A) Tire Size: The tire size code is a combination of letters and numbers used to define a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type, and service description. See the Tire Size illustration later in this section for more detail.


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(B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines. (C) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards. (D) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following the DOT code are the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (E) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (F) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction, and temperature resistance. For more information, see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-62.


(G) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. For information on recommended tire pressure see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-52
and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-22. Tire Size The following illustration shows, an example of, a typical passenger car tire size.


(A) Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter P as the first character in the tire size means a passenger vehicle tire engineered to standards set by the U.S. Tire and Rim Association.


(B) Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall. (C) Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is 75, as shown in item C, of the illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is 75 percent as high as it is wide. (D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter R means radial ply construction; the letter D means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter B means belted-bias ply construction. (E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches. (F) Service Description: The service description indicates the load range and speed rating of a tire. The load index can range from 1 to 279. Speed ratings range from A to Z.


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Tire Terminology and Definitions


Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa). Accessory Weight: This means the combined weight of optional accessories. Some examples of optional accessories are, automatic transmission, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air conditioning. Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire’s height to its width. Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials. Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim. Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the plies are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.


Cold Tire Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up heat from driving. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-52. Curb Weight: The weight of a motor vehicle with standard and optional equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil, and coolant, but without passengers and cargo. DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identification Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand, and date of production. GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-22. GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front axle. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-22. GAWR RR: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-22.


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Intended Outboard Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire, that must always face outward when mounted on a vehicle. Kilopascal (kPa): The metric unit for air pressure. Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: A tire used on light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles. Load Index: An assigned number ranging from 1 to 279 that corresponds to the load carrying capacity of a tire. Maximum Inflation Pressure: The maximum air pressure to which a cold tire can be inflated. The maximum air pressure is molded onto the sidewall. Maximum Load Rating: The load rating for a tire at the maximum permissible inflation pressure for that tire. Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight: The sum of curb weight, accessory weight, vehicle capacity weight, and production options weight. Normal Occupant Weight: The number of occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-22.


Occupant Distribution: Designated seating positions. Outward Facing Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that faces outward when mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears white lettering, or bears manufacturer, brand, and/or model name molding that is higher or deeper than the same moldings on the other sidewall of the tire. Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: A tire used on passenger cars and some light duty trucks and multipurpose vehicles. Recommended Inflation Pressure: Vehicle manufacturer’s recommended tire inflation pressure as shown on the tire placard. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-52 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-22. Radial Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. Rim: A metal support for a tire and upon which the tire beads are seated. Sidewall: The portion of a tire between the tread and the bead.


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Speed Rating: An alphanumeric code assigned to a tire indicating the maximum speed at which a tire can operate. Traction: The friction between the tire and the road surface. The amount of grip provided. Tread: The portion of a tire that comes into contact with the road. Treadwear Indicators: Narrow bands, sometimes called wear bars, that show across the tread of a tire when only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) of tread remains. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-59. UTQGS (Uniform Tire Quality Grading Standards): A tire information system that provides consumers with ratings for a tire’s traction, temperature, and treadwear. Ratings are determined by tire manufacturers using government testing procedures. The ratings are molded into the sidewall of the tire. See Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-62. Vehicle Capacity Weight: The number of designated seating positions multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg) plus the rated cargo load. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-22.


Vehicle Maximum Load on the Tire: Load on an individual tire due to curb weight, accessory weight, occupant weight, and cargo weight. Vehicle Placard: A label permanently attached to a vehicle showing the vehicle’s capacity weight and the original equipment tire size and recommended inflation pressure. See “Tire and Loading Information Label” under Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-22.


Inflation - Tire Pressure Tires need the correct amount of air pressure to operate effectively. Notice: Do not let anyone tell you that under-inflation or over-inflation is all right. It is not. If your tires do not have enough air (under-inflation), you can get the following: (cid:127) Too much flexing (cid:127) Too much heat (cid:127) Tire overloading (cid:127) Premature or irregular wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Reduced fuel economy


5-52


If your tires have too much air (over-inflation), you can get the following: (cid:127) Unusual wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Rough ride (cid:127) Needless damage from road hazards A vehicle specific Tire and Loading Information label is attached to your vehicle. This label shows your vehicle’s original equipment tires and the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they are cold. The recommended cold tire inflation pressure, shown on the label, is the minimum amount of air pressure needed to support your vehicle’s maximum load carrying capacity. For additional information regarding how much weight your vehicle can carry, and an example of the Tire and Loading Information label, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-22. How you load your vehicle affects vehicle handling and ride comfort. Never load your vehicle with more weight than it was designed to carry. When to Check Check your tires once a month or more.


How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You cannot tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they are under-inflated. Check the tire’s inflation pressure when the tires are cold. Cold means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km). Remove the valve cap from the tire valve stem. Press the tire gage firmly onto the valve to get a pressure measurement. If the cold tire inflation pressure matches the recommended pressure on the Tire and Loading Information label, no further adjustment is necessary. If the inflation pressure is low, add air until you reach the recommended amount. If you overfill the tire, release air by pushing on the metal stem in the center of the tire valve. Re-check the tire pressure with the tire gage. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.


5-53


Tire Pressure Monitor System The Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) uses radio and sensor technology to check tire pressure levels. The TPMS sensors monitor the air pressure in your vehicle’s tires and transmit tire pressure readings to a receiver located in the vehicle. Each tire, including the spare (if provided), should be checked monthly when cold and inflated to the inflation pressure recommended by the vehicle manufacturer on the vehicle placard or tire inflation pressure label. (If your vehicle has tires of a different size than the size indicated on the vehicle placard or tire inflation pressure label, you should determine the proper tire inflation pressure for those tires.) As an added safety feature, your vehicle has been equipped with a tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS) that illuminates a low tire pressure telltale when one or more of your tires is significantly under-inflated. Accordingly, when the low tire pressure telltale illuminates, you should stop and check your tires as soon as possible, and inflate them to the proper pressure. Driving on a significantly under-inflated tire causes the tire to overheat and can lead to tire failure. Under-inflation also reduces fuel efficiency and tire tread life, and may affect the vehicle’s handling and stopping ability.


Please note that the TPMS is not a substitute for proper tire maintenance, and it is the driver’s responsibility to maintain correct tire pressure, even if under-inflation has not reached the level to trigger illumination of the TPMS low tire pressure telltale. Your vehicle has also been equipped with a TPMS malfunction indicator to indicate when the system is not operating properly. The TPMS malfunction indicator is combined with the low tire pressure telltale. When the system detects a malfunction, the telltale will flash for approximately one minute and then remain continuously illuminated. This sequence will continue upon subsequent vehicle start-ups as long as the malfunction exists. When the malfunction indicator is illuminated, the system may not be able to detect or signal low tire pressure as intended. TPMS malfunctions may occur for a variety of reasons, including the installation of replacement or alternate tires or wheels on the vehicle that prevent the TPMS from functioning properly. Always check the TPMS malfunction telltale after replacing one or more tires or wheels on your vehicle to ensure that the replacement or alternate tires and wheels allow the TPMS to continue to function properly. See Tire Pressure Monitor Operation on page 5-55 for additional information.


5-54


Federal Communications Commission (FCC) and Industry and Science Canada The Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) operates on a radio frequency and complies with Part 15 of the FCC Rules. Operation is subject to the following two conditions: 1. This device may not cause harmful interference. 2. This device must accept any interference received,


including interference that may cause undesired operation.


The TPMS operates on a radio frequency and complies with RSS-210 of Industry and Science Canada. Operation is subject to the following two conditions: 1. This device may not cause interference. 2. This device must accept any interference received,


including interference that may cause undesired operation of the device.


Changes or modifications to this system by other than an authorized service facility could void authorization to use this equipment.


Tire Pressure Monitor Operation The Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) is designed to warn the driver when a low tire pressure condition exists. TPMS sensors are mounted onto each tire and wheel assembly. The TPMS sensors monitor the air pressure in the vehicle’s tires and transmit the tire pressure readings to a receiver located in the vehicle.


When a low tire pressure condition is detected, the TPMS illuminates the low tire pressure warning light on the instrument panel cluster.


At the same time a message to check the pressure in a specific tire appears on the Driver Information Center (DIC) display. The low tire pressure warning light and the DIC warning message come on at each ignition cycle until the tires are inflated to the correct inflation pressure.


5-55


Using the DIC, tire pressure levels can be viewed by the driver. For additional information and details about the DIC operation and displays see DIC Operation and Displays on page 3-44 and DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-50. The low tire pressure warning light may come on in cool weather when the vehicle is first started, and then turn off as you start to drive. This may be an early indicator that the air pressure in the tire(s) are getting low and need to be inflated to the proper pressure. A Tire and Loading Information label, attached to your vehicle, shows the size of your vehicle’s original equipment tires and the correct inflation pressure for your vehicle’s tires when they are cold. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-22, for an example of the Tire and Loading Information label and its location on your vehicle. Also see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-52. Your vehicle’s TPMS system can warn you about a low tire pressure condition but it does not replace normal tire maintenance. See Tire Inspection and Rotation on page 5-58 and Tires on page 5-47. Notice: Using non-approved tire sealants could damage the Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) sensors. TPMS sensor damage caused by using an incorrect tire sealant is not covered by the vehicle warranty. Always use the GM approved tire sealant available through your dealer/retailer.


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TPMS Malfunction Light and Message The TPMS will not function properly if one or more of the TPMS sensors are missing or inoperable. When the system detects a malfunction, the low tire warning light flashes for about one minute and then stays on for the remainder of the ignition cycle. A DIC warning message is also displayed. The low tire warning light and DIC warning message come on at each ignition cycle until the problem is corrected. Some of the conditions that can cause the malfunction light to come on are: (cid:127) The TPMS sensor matching process was started but


not completed or not completed successfully after rotating the vehicle’s tires. The TPMS malfunction light should go off once the TPMS sensor matching process is performed successfully. See “TPMS Sensor Matching Process” later in this section.


(cid:127) One or more TPMS sensors are missing or damaged. The DIC message and the TPMS malfunction light should go off when the TPMS sensors are installed and the sensor matching process is performed successfully. See your dealer/retailer for service.


(cid:127) Replacement tires or wheels do not match your


vehicle’s original equipment tires or wheels. Tires and wheels other than those recommended for your vehicle could prevent the TPMS from functioning properly. See Buying New Tires on page 5-60.


(cid:127) Operating electronic devices or being near facilities using radio wave frequencies similar to the TPMS could cause the TPMS sensors to malfunction.


If the TPMS is not functioning it cannot detect or signal a low tire condition. See your dealer/retailer for service if the TPMS malfunction light and DIC message comes on and stays on. TPMS Sensor Matching Process Each TPMS sensor has a unique identification code. Any time you replace one or more of the TPMS sensors or rotate the vehicle’s tires, the identification codes will need to be matched to the new tire/wheel position. The sensors are matched, to the tire/wheel positions, in the following order: driver side front tire, passenger side front tire, passenger side rear tire, and driver side rear tire using a TPMS diagnostic tool. See your dealer/retailer for service. The TPMS sensors can also be matched to each tire/wheel position by increasing or decreasing the tire’s air pressure. When increasing the tire’s pressure, do not exceed the maximum inflation pressure indicated on the tire’s sidewall. To decrease the tire’s air-pressure use the pointed end of the valve cap, a pencil-style air pressure gage, or a key.


You have two minutes to match each tire and wheel position. If it takes longer than two minutes to match any tire and wheel position, the matching process stops and you will need to start over. The TPMS matching process is outlined below: 1. Set the parking brake. 2. Turn the ignition switch to ON/RUN with the


engine off.


3. Press and hold the RKE transmitter’s lock


and unlock buttons at the same time, for about three seconds. The horn sounds twice to indicate the receiver is ready for the sensor matching process to begin. The TIRE LEARNING ACTIVE message displays on the DIC screen.


4. Start with the driver side front tire. The driver side


turn signal lamp comes on.


5. Remove the valve cap from the tire’s valve stem.


Activate the TPMS sensor by increasing or decreasing the tire’s air pressure for five seconds, or until a horn chirp sounds. The horn chirp, which may take up to 30 seconds to sound, confirms that the sensor identification code has been matched to the tire/wheel position.


6. Proceed to the passenger side front tire.


The passenger side front turn signal lamp comes on. Repeat the procedure in Step 5.


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7. Proceed to the passenger side rear tire.


The passenger side rear turn signal lamp comes on. Repeat the procedure in Step 5.


8. Proceed to the driver side rear tire. The driver side rear turn signal lamp comes on. Repeat the procedure in Step 5. The horn sounds two times to indicate the sensor identification code has been matched to the driver side rear tire, and the TPMS sensor matching process is no longer active. The TIRE LEARNING ACTIVE message on the DIC display screen goes off.


9. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK/OFF. 10. Set all four tires to the recommended air pressure


level as indicated on the Tire and Loading Information label.


11. Put the valve caps back on the valve stems.


Tire Inspection and Rotation We recommend that you regularly inspect your vehicle’s tires for signs of wear or damage. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-59
for more information. Tires should be rotated every 5,000 to 8,000 miles (8 000 to 13 000 km). See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4.


5-58


The purpose of a regular tire rotation is to achieve a uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. This will ensure that your vehicle continues to perform most like it did when the tires were new. Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-59 and Wheel Replacement on page 5-64 for more information.


When rotating the vehicle’s tires, always use the correct rotation pattern shown here. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the Tire and Loading Information label. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-52 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-22.


Reset the Tire Pressure Monitor System. See Tire Pressure Monitor Operation on page 5-55. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” under Capacities and Specifications.


When It Is Time for New Tires Various factors, such as maintenance, temperatures, driving speeds, vehicle loading, and road conditions influence when you need new tires.


{CAUTION:


Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause a crash. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off.


One way to tell when it is time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining.


5-59


You need new tires if any of the following statements are true: (cid:127) You can see the indicators at three or more places


around the tire.


(cid:127) You can see cord or fabric showing through the


tire’s rubber.


(cid:127) The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut, or snagged


deep enough to show cord or fabric. (cid:127) The tire has a bump, bulge, or split. (cid:127) The tire has a puncture, cut, or other damage that


cannot be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage.


The rubber in tires degrades over time, even if they are not being used. This is also true for the spare tire, if your vehicle has one. Multiple conditions affect how fast this aging takes place, including temperatures, loading conditions, and inflation pressure maintenance. With proper care and maintenance tires will typically wear out before they degrade due to age. If you are unsure about the need to replace your tires as they get older, consult the tire manufacturer for more information.


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Buying New Tires GM has developed and matched specific tires for your vehicle. The original equipment tires installed on your vehicle, when it was new, were designed to meet General Motors Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC spec) system rating. If you need replacement tires, GM strongly recommends that you get tires with the same TPC Spec rating. This way, your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give the same performance and vehicle safety, during normal use, as the original tires. GM’s exclusive TPC Spec system considers over a dozen critical specifications that impact the overall performance of your vehicle, including brake system performance, ride and handling, traction control, and tire pressure monitoring performance. GM’s TPC Spec number is molded onto the tire’s sidewall near the tire size. If the tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC spec number will be followed by a MS, for mud and snow. See Tire Sidewall Labeling on page 5-48 for additional information. GM recommends replacing tires in sets of four. This is because uniform tread depth on all tires will help keep your vehicle performing most like it did when the tires were new. Replacing less than a full set of tires can affect the braking and handling performance of your vehicle. See Tire Inspection and Rotation on page 5-58 for information on proper tire rotation.


If you must replace your vehicle’s tires with those that do not have a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating, and construction type (radial and bias-belted tires) as your vehicle’s original tires. Vehicles that have a tire pressure monitoring system could give an inaccurate low-pressure warning if non-TPC Spec rated tires are installed on your vehicle. Non-TPC Spec rated tires may give a low-pressure warning that is higher or lower than the proper warning level you would get with TPC Spec rated tires. See Tire Pressure Monitor System on page 5-54. Your vehicle’s original equipment tires are listed on the Tire and Loading Information label. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-22, for more information about the Tire and Loading Information label and its location on your vehicle.


{CAUTION:


Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes, brands, or types (radial and bias-belted tires) the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes, brands, or types may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the correct size, brand, and type of tires on your vehicle’s wheels.


{CAUTION:


If you use bias-ply tires on your vehicle, the wheel rim flanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle.


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Different Size Tires and Wheels If you add wheels or tires that are a different size than your original equipment wheels and tires, this may affect the way your vehicle performs, including its braking, ride and handling characteristics, stability, and resistance to rollover. Additionally, if your vehicle has electronic systems such as, anti-lock brakes, rollover airbags, traction control, and stability control, the performance of these systems can be affected.


{CAUTION:


If you add different sized wheels, your vehicle may not provide an acceptable level of performance and safety if tires not recommended for those wheels are selected. You may increase the chance that you will crash and suffer serious injury. Only use Saturn specific wheel and tire systems developed for your vehicle, and have them properly installed by a Saturn certified technician.


See Buying New Tires on page 5-60 and Accessories and Modifications on page 5-3 for additional information.


Uniform Tire Quality Grading Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum section width. For example: Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA), which grades tires by treadwear, traction, and temperature performance. This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States. The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG) system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver, or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards.


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Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1.5) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices, and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction – AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics.


Temperature – A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.


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Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The tires and wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. Adjustments to wheel alignment and tire balancing will not be necessary on a regular basis. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling to one side or the other, the alignment might need to be checked. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, the tires and wheels might need to be rebalanced. See your dealer/retailer for proper diagnosis.


Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked, or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your dealer/retailer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer/retailer will know the kind of wheel you need. Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces.


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{CAUTION:


Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts, or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts for replacement.


If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts, or wheel nuts, replace them only with new Saturn original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts for your vehicle. Notice: The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance, and tire clearance to the body and chassis.


{CAUTION:


{CAUTION:


Incorrect wheel nuts or improperly tightened wheel nuts can cause the wheel to become loose and even come off. This could lead to a crash. Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts. If you have to replace them, be sure to get new Saturn original equipment wheel nuts.


Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead


Notice: to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque specification.


Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause a crash. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off.


{CAUTION:


Never use oil or grease on studs or the threads of the wheel nuts. If you do, the wheel nuts might come loose and the wheel could fall off, causing a crash.


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CAUTION:


(Continued)


cause damage to the brakes, suspension or other vehicle parts. The area damaged by the tire chains could cause you to lose control of the vehicle and you or others may be injured in a crash. Use another type of traction device only if its manufacturer recommends it for use on the vehicle and tire size combination and road conditions. Follow that manufacturer’s instructions. To help avoid damage to the vehicle, drive slowly, readjust or remove the device if it is contacting the vehicle, and do not spin the vehicle’s wheels. If you do find traction devices that will fit, install them on the front tires.


Used Replacement Wheels


{CAUTION:


Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is dangerous. You cannot know how it has been used or how far it has been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause a crash. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new Saturn original equipment wheel.


Tire Chains


{CAUTION:


Do not use tire chains. There is not enough clearance. Tire chains used on a vehicle without the proper amount of clearance can


CAUTION:


(Continued)


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If a Tire Goes Flat Your vehicle has a tire sealant and compressor kit. See Tire Sealant and Compressor Kit on page 5-68. There is no spare tire, no tire changing equipment, and no place to store a tire. It is unusual for a tire to blow out while you are driving, especially if you maintain your tires properly. See Tires on page 5-47. If air goes out of a tire, it is much more likely to leak out slowly. But, if you should ever have a blow out, here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane. A rear blow out, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you would use in a skid. In any rear blow out, remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop, well off the road if possible.


If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place and stopping. Then do this: 1. Turn on the hazard warning flashers. See Hazard


Warning Flashers on page 3-6.


2. Park your vehicle. Set the parking brake firmly and


put the shift lever in PARK (P). See Shifting Into PARK (P) on page 2-27.


3. Turn off the engine. 4. Inspect the flat tire. If the tire has been separated from the wheel, has damaged sidewalls, or has a puncture larger than a 1⁄4 inch (6 mm), the tire is too severely damaged for the tire sealant and compressor kit to be effective. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-6. If the tire has a puncture less than a 1⁄4 inch (6 mm) in the tread area of the tire, see Tire Sealant and Compressor Kit on page 5-68.


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Tire Sealant and Compressor Kit Your vehicle is equipped with a tire sealant and compressor kit that is capable of temporarily sealing a puncture up to a 1⁄4 inch (6 mm) in the tread area of the tire. There is no jack of spare tire. The kit inflates with liquid sealant and air. The tire sealant and compressor kit can also be used to inflate an underinflated tire. After the tire is inflated to the recommended pressure, see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-52, the vehicle must be driven for five miles to distribute the sealant in the tire and seal the puncture. See “Using the Tire Sealant and Compressor Kit to Temporarily Seal and Inflate a Punctured Tire” later in this section. After temporarily repairing a tire using the tire sealant and compressor kit, take your vehicle to an authorized dealer/retailer as soon as possible. If the sealant is within 100 miles (161 kilometers) of driving, then it is easier to clean from the tire and you are less likely to require a replacement tire.


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A. Air Compressor B. Tire Sealant Canister C. Air Compressor Accessory Plug


D. On/Off Switch E. Air Pressure Gage F. Air Only Hose G. Sealant/Air Hose


Accessing the Tire Sealant and Compressor Kit To access the tire sealant and compressor kit:


3. Remove the forward floor panel of the load floor


cargo organizer and place it in the vehicle while you are removing the tire sealant and compressor kit.


1. Open the liftgate. See Liftgate on page 2-9 for more


information


2. Lift the forward floor panel of the load floor cargo


organizer.


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4. Open the floor cargo organizer locks, located on


the top left and right corners of the organizer, by pushing inward on them.


5. Remove the load floor cargo organizer.


6. Remove the foam retainer bolt (B) holding down the


foam container.


7. Remove the foam container (C). 8. Remove the sealant and compressor kit (A) from its


foam container.


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Using the Tire Sealant and Compressor Kit to Temporarily Seal and Inflate a Punctured Tire Follow the directions closely for correct sealant usage.


Tire Sealant Read and follow the safe handling instructions on the instructional label adhered to the sealant canister. Check the tire sealant expiration date on the sealant canister. The sealant canister should be replaced before its expiration date. Replacement canisters are available at your local dealer/retailer. See “Removal and Installation of Sealant Canister” later in this section. The sealant can temporarily seal a puncture up to 1⁄4 inch (6 mm) in the tread area of the tire. The sealant cannot seal sidewall damage, large punctures, or a tire that has become unseated from the wheel. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-6. The sealant can only be used to seal one tire. After usage, the tire sealant canister and sealant/air hose assembly must be replaced at a dealer/retailer. See “Removal and Installation of Sealant Canister” later in this section.


1. Do a safety check before proceeding. See If a Tire


Goes Flat on page 5-67.


2. Inspect the punctured tire.


The sealant can temporarily seal a puncture up to 1⁄4 inch (6 mm) in the tread area of the tire.


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The sealant cannot seal sidewall damage, large punctures, or a tire that has become unseated from the wheel. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-6. Do not remove any objects that have penetrated the tire.


3. Place the tire sealant and compressor kit on the ground and unwrap the sealant/air hose (G) from the side of the compressor.


4. Remove the valve stem cap from the flat tire by


turning it counterclockwise.


5. Attach the sealant/air hose (G) onto the tire valve


stem. Turn it clockwise until it is tight. Make sure the sealant and compressor kit on/off switch (D) is in the O (off) position.


6. Remove the air compressor accessory plug (C)


from the unit.


7. Plug the air compressor accessory plug (C) into an


accessory power outlet in the vehicle. See Accessory Power Outlet(s) on page 3-17 for more information. Do not slam door or close window on the

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