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self-adjusting. This system does not have its own reservoir. It receives fluid from the brake master cylinder reservoir. See Brakes on page 268 for more information.
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Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for five years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if you add only DEX-COOL® extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating on page 258. A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant will: (cid:127) Give freezing protection down to −34°F (−37°C). (cid:127) Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C). (cid:127) Protect against rust and corrosion.
(cid:127) Help keep the proper engine temperature. (cid:127) Let the warning lights and gages work as they
should.
Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at the first maintenance service after each 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle.
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If you use an improper coolant
Notice: mixture, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core, and other parts. If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your retailer check your cooling system. Notice: If you use extra inhibitors and/or additives in your vehicle’s cooling system, you could damage your vehicle. Use only the proper mixture of the engine coolant listed in this manual for the cooling system. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 345 for more information.
What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL® coolant which will not damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you do not need to add anything else.
{CAUTION:
Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.
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Checking Coolant
The coolant surge tank is located in the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 242
for more information on location.{CAUTION:
Turning the surge tank pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. Never turn the surge tank pressure cap — even a little — when the engine and radiator are hot.
The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the COLD FILL line. Do not overfill the surge tank. Too much coolant can result in an overflow condition when the fluid is hot.
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Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture at the coolant surge tank, but only when the engine is cool. If the coolant surge tank is empty, a special fill procedure is necessary. See Engine Overheating on page 258 for instructions on “How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Surge Tank.”
{CAUTION:
You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.
When replacing the pressure cap, make sure it is hand-tight and fully seated.
If the pressure cap is not tightly
Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap Notice: installed, coolant loss and possible engine damage may occur. Be sure the cap is properly and tightly secured. The coolant surge tank pressure cap must be fully installed on the coolant surge tank. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 242 for more information on location.
Engine Overheating There is an engine coolant temperature warning light on your vehicle’s instrument panel. See Engine Coolant Temperature Warning Light on page 137 for more information.
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If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine
{CAUTION:
Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool.
If your engine catches fire because
Notice: you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty.
If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine An engine coolant temperature warning can indicate a serious problem. See Engine Coolant Temperature Warning Light on page 137. If you get an engine coolant temperature warning, but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: (cid:127) Climb a long hill on a hot day. (cid:127) Stop after high-speed driving. (cid:127) Idle for long periods in traffic. If you get the engine coolant temperature warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. If your air conditioner is on, turn it off. 2. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in
NEUTRAL (N) while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) and let the engine idle.
3. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan
speed and open the windows as necessary.
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Cooling System When you decide it is safe to lift the hood, here is what you will see:
If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning does not come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues and you have not stopped, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there is still no sign of steam, you can idle the engine for three minutes while you are parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.
2.4L L4 Engine
A. Electric Engine Cooling Fan (Out of View) B. Coolant Surge Tank and Pressure Cap
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2.0L L4 Engine
A. Coolant Surge Tank and Pressure Cap B. Electric Engine Cooling Fan (Out of View)
{CAUTION:
An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan.
If the coolant inside the coolant surge tank is boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface.
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Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant could require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle.
How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Surge Tank Notice: Your engine has a specific cooling system drain and fill procedure. Failure to follow this procedure could cause your engine to overheat and be severely damaged. If your engine’s cooling system needs to be drained and re-filled, please see your dealer. If you have not found a problem yet, check to see if coolant is visible in the coolant surge tank.
The coolant level should be at the COLD FILL line. If it is not, you may have a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump, or somewhere in the cooling system.
{CAUTION:
Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.
If there seems to be no leak, with the engine on, check to see if the electric engine cooling fan are running. If the engine is overheating, the fan should be running. If they are not, your vehicle needs service. Notice: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant is not covered by your warranty.
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If coolant is visible but the coolant level is not at the COLD FILL line, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant at the coolant surge tank, but be sure the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is cool before you do it. See Engine Coolant on page 255 for more information. If no coolant is visible in the coolant surge tank, add coolant as follows:
{CAUTION:
Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the coolant surge tank pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and coolant surge tank pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.
{CAUTION:
Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.
In cold weather, water can freeze and
Notice: crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture.
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2. Then keep turning the pressure cap slowly, and remove it.
{CAUTION:
You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.
1. Remove the coolant surge tank pressure cap
when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise about two or two and one-half turns. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. This will allow any pressure still left to be vented out the discharge hose.
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4. With the coolant surge tank pressure cap off,
start the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fan. By this time, the coolant level inside the coolant surge tank may be lower. If the level is lower than the COLD FILL line, add more of the proper mixture to the coolant surge tank until the level reaches the COLD FILL line.
5. Then replace the pressure cap. Be sure the pressure cap is hand-tight and fully seated. See your retailer, if necessary.
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3. Fill the coolant surge tank with the proper mixture, to the COLD FILL line. Wait about five minutes, then check to see if the level is below the COLD FILL line. If the level is below the line, add additional coolant to bring the level up to the line. Repeat this procedure until the level remains constant at the COLD FILL line for at least five minutes.
Power Steering Fluid
See Engine Compartment Overview on page 242
for reservoir location.When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.
How to Check Power Steering Fluid To check the power steering fluid, do the following: 1. Turn the key off and let the engine
compartment cool down.
2. Wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean. 3. Unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a
clean rag.
4. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. 5. Remove the cap again and look at the
fluid level on the dipstick.
The level should be between the COLD and HOT marks. If necessary, add only enough fluid to bring the level up to the COLD mark. What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 345. Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.
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Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing. Adding Washer Fluid
Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer fluid until the tank is full. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 242
for reservoir location.Notice: (cid:127) When using concentrated washer fluid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.
(cid:127) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer
fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer fluid.
(cid:127) Fill your washer fluid tank only
three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.
(cid:127) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in
your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.
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Brakes Brake Fluid
Your brake master cylinder reservoir is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 242 for the location of the reservoir.
There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake and/or clutch hydraulic system. If it is, you should have your brake and/or clutch system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes and/or clutch will not work well, or will not work at all.
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So, it is not a good idea to top off your brake/clutch fluid. Adding fluid will not correct a leak. If you add fluid when your brake linings are worn, then you will have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add or remove fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake/clutch hydraulic system.
{CAUTION:
If your vehicle has too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake and/or clutch hydraulic system.
When your brake fluid falls to a low level, your brake warning light will come on. See Brake System Warning Light on page 134.
What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3
brake fluid. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 345. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.{CAUTION:
With the wrong kind of fluid in the brake/clutch system, the brakes/clutch may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.
Notice: (cid:127) Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake/clutch system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in the brake/clutch hydraulic system can damage brake/clutch system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 318.
(cid:127)
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Brake Wear Your vehicle has four-wheel disc brakes. Front disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving, except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly.
{CAUTION:
The brake wear warning sound means that soon the brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.
Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair.
Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to Saturn torque specifications. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. Brake Pedal Travel See your retailer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you apply the brakes, with or without the vehicle moving, your brakes adjust for wear.
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Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality Saturn brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system — for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure you get new approved Saturn replacement parts. If you do not, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance you have come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.
Battery Your vehicle has a maintenance free battery. When it is time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco® replacement battery. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 242 for battery location. Warning: Battery posts, terminals, and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling.
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Vehicle Storage If you are not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.
Jump Starting If your vehicle’s battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely.
{CAUTION:
{CAUTION:
Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:
(cid:127) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:127) They contain gas that can explode
(cid:127) They contain enough electricity to
or ignite.
burn you.
If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.
Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 272 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.
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Ignoring these steps could result in
Notice: costly damage to your vehicle that would not be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage your vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a
12-volt battery with a negative ground system.
If the other vehicle’s system is not
Notice: a 12-volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper
cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems.
To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transmission in PARK (P) or a manual transmission in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake.
Notice: If you leave your radio or other accessories on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and other accessories when jump starting your vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles.
Unplug unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or the accessory power outlet. Turn off the radio and all lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save the radio!
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4. Open the hood on the other vehicle and locate the positive (+) and negative (−) terminal locations on that vehicle. You will not need to access your battery for jump starting. Your vehicle has a remote positive (+) and a remote negative (−) jump starting terminal.
The remote positive (+) terminal is located under a red plastic cover on the engine compartment fuse block. Open the cover to access the terminal.
The remote negative (−) ground bracket is located in the rear of the engine compartment, on the passenger’s side of the vehicle, and is marked GND (−).
See Engine Compartment Overview on page 242 for more information on the location of the positive (+) and negative (−) terminals on your vehicle.
{CAUTION:
An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.
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{CAUTION:
{CAUTION:
Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you don’t, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.
Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.
5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks.
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6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the
positive (+) terminal location on the vehicle with the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal.
7. Do not let the other end touch metal.
Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.
8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.
9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal location on the vehicle with the dead battery. Your vehicle has a remote negative (−) ground bracket for this purpose. See Engine Compartment Overview Engine Compartment Overview on page 242 for more information on the location of the remote positive (+) and remote negative (−) terminals.
10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery
and run the engine for a while.
11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery. If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service.
If the jumper cables are connected
Notice: or removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always connect and remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal.
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To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from
the vehicle that had the dead battery.
2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from
the vehicle with the good battery.
3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the
vehicle with the good battery.
4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the
other vehicle.
5. Return the positive (+) terminal cover to its
original position.
Jumper Cable Removal
A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or
Remote Negative (−) Terminal
B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and
Remote Negative (−) Terminals
C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal
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Rear Axle When to Check Lubricant It is not necessary to regularly check rear axle fluid unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired. How to Check Lubricant
To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface.
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If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, located on the rear axle, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 345. Headlamp Aiming Headlamp aim has been preset at the factory and should need no further adjustment. If your vehicle is damaged in an accident, the headlamp aim may be affected. Aim adjustment to the low-beam headlamps may be necessary if it is difficult to see the lane markers (for horizontal aim), or if oncoming drivers flash their high-beam headlamps at you (for vertical aim). If you believe your headlamps need to be re-aimed, we recommend that you take your vehicle to your retailer for service.
Headlamps and Parking Lamps
Bulb Replacement For the type of bulb to use, see Replacement Bulbs on page 283. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your retailer.
Halogen Bulbs
{CAUTION:
Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.
A. High-beam Headlamp B. Low-beam Headlamp C. Parking Lamp
279
To replace one of these bulbs, do the following: 1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on page 241 for more information.
Front Turn Signal, Parking and Fog Lamps
A. Front Turn Signal/
Parking Lamp
B. Fog Lamp
2. Remove the bulb access cover from the bulb (high or low-beam only) you need to change.
3. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and
pull it from the headlamp assembly.
4. Remove the electrical connector from the
bulb socket.
5. Holding the base of the socket, pull the old
bulb from the socket.
6. Install a new bulb. 7. Reverse Steps 2 through 5 to reinstall.
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To replace one of these bulbs, do the following: 1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on
page 241 for more information.
2. Reach underneath the front bumper and
locate the bulb assembly.
3. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and
pull out the bulb assembly.
4. Disconnect the bulb socket from the electrical
connector.
5. Install a new bulb. 6. Reverse the steps to reinstall.
Taillamps, Turn Signal, Stoplamps and Sidemarker Lamps To replace one of these bulbs, do the following: 1. Open the trunk. See Trunk on page 68
for more information.
4. Remove the taillamp assembly. 5. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise
to remove.
6. Pull the bulb from the socket. 7. Install a new bulb. 8. Reverse the steps to reinstall the taillamp
assembly.
2. Remove the two screws, which hold the
taillamp assembly, from inside the vehicle.
3. Pull the taillamp assembly upwards and
sideways to disengage it from the vehicle.
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Back-Up Lamps
License Plate Lamp To replace the license plate lamp bulb, do the following:
1. Remove the two screws holding the license
plate lamp assembly to the fascia.
2. Turn and pull the license plate lamp forward
through the fascia opening.
3. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and
pull the bulb straight out of the socket.
4. Install the new bulb. 5. Reverse Steps 1 through 3 to reinstall the
lamp assembly.
The back-up lamps are located in the rear bumper. To replace a bulb, do the following: 1. Reach behind, up and under the rear bumper
and locate the bulb socket.
2. Turn it counterclockwise to remove from the
bulb assembly.
3. Pull the bulb from the bulb socket. 4. Push in a new bulb into the bulb socket. 5. Reinstall the bulb socket by lining up the tabs in the lamp assembly and turn it clockwise to secure it.
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Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected for wear and cracking. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 336 for more information. Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. For proper type and length, see Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 347.
Replacement Bulbs
Exterior Lamp
Bulb Number
Back-Up, Stoplamp, Taillamp and Turn Signal
Fog Lamp
Front Parking Lamp (In Headlamp Assembly)
Front Parking/Turn Signal Lamp (Below Headlamp Assembly)
Front and Rear Sidemarker Lamp
License Plate Lamp
Headlamps
High-Beam
Low-Beam
3157K
H11
W5W-B50X2
5702KA
194
168
H9
H11
For replacement bulbs not listed here, contact your retailer.
To replace the windshield wiper blade assembly do the following: 1. Lift the wiper arm away from the windshield.
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Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your Saturn Warranty booklet for details. For additional information refer to the tire manufacturer’s booklet included with your vehicle.
{CAUTION:
Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous.
(cid:127) Overloading your vehicle’s tires can cause overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 225.
CAUTION:
(Continued)
2. Push the release lever (B) to disengage the hook and push the wiper arm (A) out of the blade (C).
3. Push the new wiper blade securely on the wiper arm until you hear the release lever click into place.
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If your vehicle has P245/45R18 size
Notice: tires, they are classified as low-profile tires. Low-profile tires are more susceptible to damage from road hazards or curb impact than standard profile tires. Tire and or wheel assembly damage can occur when coming into contact with road hazards like, potholes or sharp edged objects or when sliding into a curb. Your Saturn Warranty does not cover this type of damage. Keep tires set to the correct inflation pressure and when possible avoid contact with curbs, potholes, and other road hazards.
CAUTION:
(Continued)
(cid:127) Underinflated tires pose the same
danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your vehicle’s tires are cold. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 292.
(cid:127) Overinflated tires are more likely to
be cut, punctured, or broken by a sudden impact — such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure.
(cid:127) Worn, old tires can cause accidents.
If the tire’s tread is badly worn, or if your vehicle’s tires have been damaged, replace them.
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Winter Tires If your vehicle has P245/45R18 size tires, they are classified as low-profile performance tires. These tires are designed for very responsive driving on wet or dry pavement. If you expect to drive on snow or ice covered roads often, you may want to get winter tires for your vehicle. The low-profile performance tires may not offer the traction you would like or the same level of performance as winter tires on snow or ice covered roads. Winter tires, in general, are designed for increased traction on snow and ice covered roads. With winter tires, there may be decreased dry road traction, increased road noise and shorter tire tread life. After switching to winter tires, be alert for changes in vehicle handling and braking.
See your retailer for details regarding winter tire availability and proper tire selection. Also, see Buying New Tires on page 296. If you choose to use winter tires: (cid:127) Use tires of the same brand and tread type
on all four wheel positions.
(cid:127) Use only radial ply tires of the same size,
load range, and speed rating as the original equipment tires.
Winter tires with the same speed rating as your original equipment tires may not be available for H, V, W, Y, and ZR speed rated tires. If you choose winter tires with a lower speed rating, never exceed the tire’s maximum speed capability.
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Tire Sidewall Labeling Useful information about a tire is molded into its sidewall. The example below shows a typical passenger (p-metric) tire sidewall.
Passenger (P-Metric) Tire Example
(A) Tire Size: The tire size is a combination of letters and numbers used to define a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type, and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail.
(B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines.
(C) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards.
(D) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT code are the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture.
(E) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread.
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(F) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction and temperature resistance. For more information see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 299.
(G) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. Tire Size The following illustration shows an example of a typical passenger (p-metric) vehicle tire size.
(A) Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter P as the first character in the tire size means a passenger vehicle tire engineered to standards set by the U. S. Tire and Rim Association.
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(B) Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall.
(C) Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is 60, as shown in item C of the illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is 60 percent as high as it is wide.
(D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter R means radial ply construction; the letter D means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter B means belted-bias ply construction.
(E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches.
(F) Service Description: These characters represent the load range and speed rating of the tire. The load index represents the load carry capacity a tire is certified to carry. The load index can range from 1 to 279. The speed rating is the maximum speed a tire is certified to carry a load. Speed ratings range from A to Z.
Tire Terminology and Definitions
Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa).
Accessory Weight: This means the combined weight of optional accessories. Some examples of optional accessories are, automatic transmission/ transaxle, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air conditioning.
Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire’s height to its width.
Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials.
Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim.
Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the plies are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.
Cold Tire Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up heat from driving. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 292.
Curb Weight: This means the weight of a motor vehicle with standard and optional equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil, and coolant, but without passengers and cargo.
DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identification Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand, and date of production.
GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 225.
GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front axle. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 225.
GAWR RR: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 225.
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Intended Outboard Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire, that must always face outward when mounted on a vehicle.
Kilopascal (kPa): The metric unit for air pressure.
Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: A tire used on light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles.
Load Index: An assigned number ranging from 1 to 279 that corresponds to the load carrying capacity of a tire.
Maximum Inflation Pressure: The maximum air pressure to which a cold tire may be inflated. The maximum air pressure is molded onto the sidewall.
Maximum Load Rating: The load rating for a tire at the maximum permissible inflation pressure for that tire.
Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight: The sum of curb weight, accessory weight, vehicle capacity weight, and production options weight.
Normal Occupant Weight: The number of occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 225.
Occupant Distribution: Designated seating positions.
Outward Facing Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that faces outward when mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears white lettering, or bears manufacturer, brand, and/or model name molding that is higher or deeper than the same moldings on the other sidewall of the tire.
Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: A tire used on passenger cars and some light duty trucks and multipurpose vehicles.
Recommended Inflation Pressure: Vehicle manufacturer’s recommended tire inflation pressure as shown on the tire placard. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 292 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 225.
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Radial Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.
Rim: A metal support for a tire and upon which the tire beads are seated.
Sidewall: The portion of a tire between the tread and the bead.
Speed Rating: An alphanumeric code assigned to a tire indicating the maximum speed at which a tire can operate.
Traction: The friction between the tire and the road surface. The amount of grip provided.
Tread: The portion of a tire that comes into contact with the road.
Treadwear Indicators: Narrow bands, sometimes called wear bars, that show across the tread of a tire when only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) of tread remains. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 296.
UTQGS (Uniform Tire Quality Grading Standards): A tire information system that provides consumers with ratings for a tire’s traction, temperature, and treadwear. Ratings are determined by tire manufacturers using government testing procedures. The ratings are molded into the sidewall of the tire. See Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 299.
Vehicle Capacity Weight: The number of designated seating positions multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg) plus the rated cargo load. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 225.
Vehicle Maximum Load on the Tire: Load on an individual tire due to curb weight, accessory weight, occupant weight, and cargo weight.
Vehicle Placard: A label permanently attached to a vehicle showing the vehicle’s capacity weight and the original equipment tire size and recommended inflation pressure. See “Tire and Loading Information Label” under Loading Your Vehicle on page 225.
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A Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar), below the driver’s door latch. This label shows your vehicle’s original equipment tires and the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they are cold. The recommended cold tire inflation pressure, shown on the label, is the minimum amount of air pressure needed to support your vehicle’s maximum load carrying capacity. For additional information regarding how much weight your vehicle can carry, and an example of the Tire and Loading Information label, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 225. How you load your vehicle affects vehicle handling and ride comfort, never load your vehicle with more weight than it was designed to carry.
Inflation - Tire Pressure Tires need the correct amount of air pressure to operate effectively. Notice: Do not let anyone tell you that under-inflation or over-inflation is all right. It is not. If your tires do not have enough air (under-inflation), you can get the following: (cid:127) Too much flexing (cid:127) Too much heat (cid:127) Tire overloading (cid:127) Premature or irregular wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Reduced fuel economy If your tires have too much air (over-inflation), you can get the following: (cid:127) Unusual wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Rough ride (cid:127) Needless damage from road hazards
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When to Check Check your tires once a month or more.
How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You cannot tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they are under-inflated. Check the tire’s inflation pressure when the tires are cold. Cold means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km).
Remove the valve cap from the tire valve stem. Press the tire gage firmly onto the valve to get a pressure measurement. If the cold tire inflation pressure matches the recommended pressure on the Tire and Loading Information label, no further adjustment is necessary. If the inflation pressure is low, add air until you reach the recommended amount. If you overfill the tire, release air by pushing on the metal stem in the center of the tire valve. Re-check the tire pressure with the tire gage. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.
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Tire Inspection and Rotation Tires should be rotated every 5,000 to 8,000 miles (8 000 to 13 000 km). Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 296
and Wheel Replacement on page 300 for more information. The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The first rotation is the most important. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 336.Non-Directional Tires
When rotating Goodyear Eagle RSA P245/45R18
non-directional tires, always use the correct rotation pattern shown here.294
After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the Tire and Loading Information label. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 225 for an example of the Tire and Loading Information label and its location on your vehicle. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” under Capacities and Specifications on page 331.
{CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause a crash. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off.
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Directional Tires
If your vehicle has Goodyear Eagle F1-GS1
P245/45R18 size tires, they are directional tires and must roll in a certain direction for the best overall performance. The direction is shown by an arrow on the tire sidewall. Because these tires are directional, they should be rotated as shown here. These tires should only be moved from front to rear and rear to front on the same side of the vehicle.When It Is Time for New Tires
One way to tell when it is time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining.
You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true: (cid:127) You can see the indicators at three or more
places around the tire.
(cid:127) You can see cord or fabric showing through
the tire’s rubber.
(cid:127) The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut, or
snagged deep enough to show cord or fabric.
(cid:127) The tire has a bump, bulge, or split. (cid:127) The tire has a puncture, cut, or other damage
that cannot be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage.
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Buying New Tires Saturn has developed and matched specific tires for your vehicle. The original equipment tires installed on your vehicle, when it was new, were designed to meet General Motors Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC spec) system rating. If you need replacement tires, Saturn strongly recommends that you get tires with the same TPC spec rating. This way, your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give the same performance and vehicle safety, during normal use, as the original tires. GM’s exclusive TPC spec system considers over a dozen critical specifications that impact the overall performance of your vehicle, including brake system performance, ride and handling, traction control, and tire pressure monitoring performance. GM’s TPC spec number is molded onto the tire’s sidewall by the tire manufacturer. If the tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC spec number will be followed by a MS, for mud and snow. See Tire Sidewall Labeling on page 287 for additional information.
{CAUTION:
{CAUTION:
Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes, brands, or types (radial and bias-belted tires) the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes, brands, or types may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the correct size, brand, and type of tires on your vehicle’s wheels.
If you use bias-ply tires on your vehicle, the wheel rim flanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle.
If you must replace your vehicle’s tires with those that do not have a TPC spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating, and construction type (radial and bias-belted tires) as your vehicle’s original tires. Your vehicle’s original equipment tires are listed on the Tire and Loading Information label. This label is attached to the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 225, for more information about the Tire and Loading Information label.
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Different Size Tires and Wheels If you add wheels or tires that are a different size than your original equipment wheels and tires, this may affect the way your vehicle performs, including its braking, ride and handling characteristics, stability, and resistance to rollover. Additionally, if your vehicle has electronic systems such as, anti-lock brakes, traction control, and stability control, the performance of these systems can be affected.
{CAUTION:
If you add different sized wheels, your vehicle may not provide an acceptable level of performance and safety if tires not recommended for those wheels are selected. You may increase the chance that you will crash and suffer serious injury. Only use Saturn specific wheel and tire systems developed for your vehicle, and have them properly installed by a Saturn certified technician.
See Buying New Tires on page 296 and Accessories and Modifications on page 233 for additional information.
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Uniform Tire Quality Grading Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum section width. For example: Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA), which grades tires by treadwear, traction, and temperature performance. This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States. The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG) system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver, or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards.
Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1.5) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices, and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction – AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics.
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Temperature – A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.
Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The tires and wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. Adjustments to wheel alignment and tire balancing will not be necessary on a regular basis. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling to one side or the other, the alignment may need to be checked. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your tires and wheels may need to be rebalanced. See your retailer for proper diagnosis.
Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked, or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your retailer if any of these conditions exist. Your retailer will know the kind of wheel you need.
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Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces.
{CAUTION:
Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts, or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts for replacement.
If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts, or wheel nuts, replace them only with new Saturn original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts for your vehicle.
Notice: The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance, and tire clearance to the body and chassis.
{CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause a crash. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off.
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{CAUTION:
Never use oil or grease on studs or the threads of the wheel nuts. If you do, the wheel nuts might come loose and the wheel could fall off, causing a crash.
{CAUTION:
Incorrect wheel nuts or improperly tightened wheel nuts can cause the wheel to become loose and even come off. This could lead to a crash. Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts. If you have to replace them, be sure to get new Saturn original equipment wheel nuts.
Improperly tightened wheel nuts can
Notice: lead to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque specification.
Used Replacement Wheels
{CAUTION:
Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is dangerous. You cannot know how it has been used or how far it has been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause a crash. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new Saturn original equipment wheel.
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Tire Chains
{CAUTION:
Do not use tire chains. There is not enough clearance. Tire chains used on a vehicle without the proper amount of clearance can cause damage to the brakes, suspension, or other vehicle parts. The area damaged by the tire chains could cause you to lose control of your vehicle and you or others may be injured in a crash. Use another type of traction device only if its manufacturer recommends it for use on your vehicle and tire size combination and road conditions. Follow that manufacturer’s instructions. To help avoid damage to your vehicle, drive slowly, re-adjust or remove the device if it is contacting your vehicle, and do not spin your wheels. If you do find traction devices that will fit, install them on the rear tires.
If a Tire Goes Flat Your vehicle has a tire inflator kit. There is no spare tire, no tire changing equipment, and no place to store a tire. It is unusual for a tire to blow out while you are driving, especially if you maintain your tires properly. See Tires on page 284. If air goes out of a tire, it is much more likely to leak out slowly. But, if you should ever have a blow out, here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane. A rear blow out, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you would use in a skid. In any rear blow out, remove your foot from the accelerator pedal.
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Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop, well off the road if possible. If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place and stopping. Then do this: 1. Turn on the hazard warning flashers. See
Hazard Warning Flashers on page 110. 2. Park your vehicle. If your vehicle has an automatic transmission, set the parking brake firmly and put the shift lever in PARK (P). See Shifting Into Park (P) (Automatic Transmission) on page 87. If your vehicle has a manual transmission, move the shift lever to REVERSE (R) and set the parking brake firmly. See Parking Your Vehicle (Manual Transmission) on page 89 for additional information.
3. Turn off the engine. 4. Inspect the flat tire.
If the tire has been separated from the wheel or has damaged sidewalls or large tears that allow rapid air loss, call a tire repair facility. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 359. If the flat tire is due to a slow leak caused by a nail or other similar road hazard, the tire inflator kit may be used to repair the damaged tire temporarily. The kit uses a liquid tire sealant to seal small punctures in the tread area of the tire. After repairing a tire with the tire inflator kit, take your vehicle to an authorized Saturn retailer to have the tire inspected and repaired as soon as possible. The tire sealant is a temporary repair only. See Tire Inflator Kit on page 304.
Tire Inflator Kit Your vehicle has a tire inflator kit. There is no jack or spare tire. The kit uses a liquid tire sealant and air at the same time to seal small punctures in the tread area of the tire. Be sure to read and follow all of the tire inflator kit instructions. The kit includes the following:
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If the flat tire is due to a slow leak caused by a nail or other similar road hazard, the tire inflator kit may be used to temporarily repair the damaged tire. After temporarily repairing a tire using the tire inflator kit, it is recommended to take your vehicle to an authorized Saturn retailer within 100 miles (161 kilometers) of driving to have the tire inspected and repaired. If the sealant is not removed from the tire within 100 miles (161 kilometers) of driving, it is more likely that the tire may get damaged and have to be replaced.
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A. Air Compressor B. Tire Sealant Canister C. Air Compressor Accessory Plug
D. On/Off Switch
E. Air Pressure Gage F. Air Compressor
Inflator Hose
G. Sealant
Filling Hose
Accessing the Tire Inflator Kit To access the tire inflator kit, do the following: 1. Make sure the convertible top is in the up
position before accessing the tire inflator kit. 2. Open the trunk. See Trunk on page 68 for
more information.
4. Remove the tire inflator kit strap by squeezing the two tabs of the quick release buckle.
5. Remove the inflator kit from its foam container.
3. Locate the tire inflator kit on the driver’s
side of the vehicle, near the back corner of the trunk.
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Tire Sealant The kit contains a liquid sealant that when injected into a flat tire, may temporarily repair nail holes or cuts in the tread area of the tire. The tire sealant cannot repair tire damage caused while driving on a flat tire or a tire that has had a “blow out” or a tire that has punctures in the sidewall areas. The tire sealant solution is to be used for a single tire and can only be used once. Check the tire sealant expiration date on the sealant canister. The sealant may not be as effective beyond the expiration date. If needed, see your retailer for a replacement canister.
Using the Tire Inflator Kit To use the tire inflator kit, do the following: 1. Place the inflator kit on the ground and unwrap
the sealant filling hose from the compressor. 2. Remove the air compressor accessory plug from the unit. To do this, pull the top portion of the wrapped cord out first, then the bottom, and then unsnap the plug. Do not insert the plug into an accessory outlet yet.
3. Remove the valve stem cap from the flat tire
by turning it counterclockwise. If an object, such as a nail, has penetrated the tire, do not remove it.
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{CAUTION:
Idling the engine in a closed-in place or with the climate control system off can cause deadly carbon monoxide (CO). See Engine Exhaust on page 91.
6. Start the vehicle. See Starting the Engine
on page 80 for more information. The vehicle must be running while using the air compressor.
{CAUTION:
Inflating something too much can make it explode, and you or others could be injured. Be sure to read the inflator instructions, and inflate the tire to its recommended pressure. Do not exceed 36 psi (248 kPa).
4. Attach the sealant filling hose (A) onto the tire
valve stem. Turn it clockwise until it is tight. Make sure the inflator kit on/off switch (B) is in the O (off) position.
5. Plug the air compressor accessory plug (C)
into an accessory power outlet in the vehicle. See Accessory Power Outlet(s) on page 121
for more information.308
7. Push the inflator kit switch to the I (on)
position. The inflator kit will force sealant and air into the tire. Sealant may leak from the puncture hole until the vehicle is driven and the hole has sealed.
8. Make sure there is a proper connection
between the tire valve stem and the sealant filling hose by looking at the air pressure gage. If there is not a pressure reading while the compressor is running, the connection between the inflator kit and the tire is bad. Check the attachment between the sealant filling hose and the tire valve stem.
9. Inflate the tire up to the recommended
inflation pressure, found on the Tire and Loading Information label located on the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar) below the vehicle’s door latch, using the air pressure gage on the top of the unit. The pressure gage reading is slightly high while the compressor is on. Turn the compressor off to get an accurate pressure reading.
If the recommended pressure cannot
Notice: be reached after 15 minutes, the vehicle should not be driven farther. Damage to the tire is severe and the sealant will not be effective. Remove the air compressor plug from the accessory power outlet and unscrew the inflating hose from the tire valve. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 359. 10. Push the inflator kit switch to the O (off) position once the correct tire pressure is obtained.
11. Turn off the engine. 12. Unplug the air compressor accessory plug
from the accessory power outlet in the vehicle.
13. Disconnect the sealant filling hose from the
tire valve stem, by turning it counterclockwise, and replace the tire valve stem cap. Be careful when handling the tire inflator components as they may be hot after usage. 14. Wrap the sealant filling hose around the air compressor channel to stow it in its original location.
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15. Stow the air compressor accessory plug back
in the air compressor. To do this, wrap the air compressor accessory plug, snap in the plug, and then push in the bottom and then the top of the wrapped air compressor accessory plug.
16. If the flat tire was able to inflate to the recommended inflation pressure, remove the maximum speed label from the sealant canister.
Place it in a highly visible location such as the inside of the upper left corner of the windshield or to the face of the radio/clock. The maximum speed label reminds you to drive cautiously and not to exceed 55 mph (90 km/h) until you have the damaged tire inspected and repaired.
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{CAUTION:
Storing the tire inflator kit or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store the tire inflator kit in the proper place.
17. Return the equipment to the proper storage
location in the trunk of your vehicle. You may need to loosen the retention strap to wrap it around the inflator kit and foam container. To do this, pull apart the strap and loosen the strap at the quick release buckle. Then snap the buckle together, pull the strap tight, and secure the loose end of the strap by mating the ends.
18. Immediately drive the vehicle 5 miles (8 km)
to distribute the sealant evenly in the tire. Stop at a safe location and check the tire pressure, refer to Steps 1 through 8 under “Using the Air Compressor without Sealant” next in this section. If the tire pressure has fallen more then 10 psi (68 kPa), below the recommended inflation pressure, stop driving the vehicle. The tire is too damaged for the sealant to work. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 359. If the tire pressure has not dropped more than 10 psi (68 kPa) from the recommended inflation pressure, you can inflate the tire back up to the recommended inflation pressure. 19. Dispose of the sealant canister at a local
retailer or in accordance with your local state codes and practices. After using the sealant canister, replace it with a new canister from a retailer.
20. After temporarily repairing a tire with the
emergency flat tire repair kit, take your vehicle to an authorized retailer to have the tire inspected and repaired.
Using the Air Compressor without Sealant To use the air compressor by itself to inflate a tire, do the following: 1. Remove the air compressor accessory plug
from the air compressor.
2. Unlock the air compressor hose from the
sealant canister by pulling up on the lever. 3. Pull the air compressor inflator hose from
the sealant canister.
4. Push the air compressor inflator hose onto
the tire valve stem and push the lever down to secure in place.
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5. Plug the air compressor accessory plug into
an accessory power outlet in the vehicle. See Accessory Power Outlet(s) on page 121 for more information.
{CAUTION:
Idling the engine in a closed-in place or with the climate control system off can cause deadly carbon monoxide (CO). See Engine Exhaust on page 91.
6. Start the vehicle. See Starting the Engine
on page 80 for more information. The vehicle must be running while using the air compressor.
{CAUTION:
Inflating something too much can make it explode, and you or others could be injured. Be sure to read the inflator instructions, and inflate the tire to its recommended pressure. Do not exceed 36 psi (248 kPa).
7. Push the inflator kit switch to the I (on) position. 8. Make sure there is a proper connection between the tire valve stem and the air compressor hose by looking at the air pressure gage. If there is not a pressure reading while the compressor is running, the connection between the inflator kit and the tire is bad. Check the attachment between the air compressor hose and the tire valve stem.
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9. Inflate the tire up to the recommended
inflation pressure using the air pressure gage on the top of the unit.
10. Turn off the air compressor by moving the
switch to the O (off) position.
Removal and Installation of the Sealant Canister To remove the sealant canister, do the following:
{CAUTION:
Storing the tire inflator kit or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store the tire inflator kit in the proper place.
11. Disconnect the compressor inflator hose and wrap the hose in the bottom of the inflator kit. 12. Place the equipment in the original location in
the trunk of your vehicle.
1. Unlock the air compressor inflator hose from
the sealant canister by pulling the lever up. 2. Disconnect the air compressor inflator hose
from the sealant canister.
3. Unwrap the sealant filling hose from the
compressor.
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To install a new sealant canister, do the following: 1. Align the sealant filling hose with the slot
in the air compressor.
2. Push the sealant canister down and turn
it clockwise.
3. Wrap the sealant filling hose around the
air compressor channel to stow it in its original location.
4. Push the air compressor inflator hose onto
the sealant canister inlet and push the lever down.
4. Turn the sealant canister so the inflator filling
hose is aligned with the slot in the compressor.
5. Lift the sealant canister from the compressor
and replace with a new sealant canister. See your retailer for more information.
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Appearance Care Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle Your vehicle’s interior will continue to look its best if it is cleaned often. Although not always visible, dust and dirt can accumulate on your upholstery. Dirt can damage carpet, fabric, leather, and plastic surfaces. Regular vacuuming is recommended to remove particles from your upholstery. It is important to keep your upholstery from becoming and remaining heavily soiled. Soils should be removed as quickly as possible. Your vehicle’s interior may experience extremes of heat that could cause stains to set rapidly. Lighter colored interiors may require more frequent cleaning. Use care because newspapers and garments that transfer color to your home furnishings may also transfer color to your vehicle’s interior. When cleaning your vehicle’s interior, only use cleaners specifically designed for the surfaces being cleaned. Permanent damage may result from using cleaners on surfaces for which they were not intended. Use glass cleaner only on glass.
If you use abrasive cleaners when
Remove any accidental over-spray from other surfaces immediately. To prevent over-spray, apply cleaner directly to the cleaning cloth. Notice: cleaning glass surfaces on your vehicle, you could scratch the glass and/or cause damage to the rear window defogger. When cleaning the glass on your vehicle, use only a soft cloth and glass cleaner. Many cleaners contain solvents that may become concentrated in your vehicle’s breathing space. Before using cleaners, read and adhere to all safety instructions on the label. While cleaning
