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Here are some things you can check before a trip: (cid:129) Windshield Washer Fluid: Is the reservoir
full? Are all windows clean inside and outside?
(cid:129) Wiper Blades: Are they in good shape? (cid:129) Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: Have you
checked all levels? Lamps: Are they all working? Are the lenses clean?
(cid:129) Tires: They are vitally important to a safe, trouble-free trip. Is the tread good enough for long-distance driving? Are the tires all inflated to the recommended pressure?
(cid:129) Weather Forecasts: What is the weather
outlook along your route? Should you delay your trip a short time to avoid a major storm system?
(cid:129) Maps: Do you have up-to-date maps?
Highway Hypnosis Is there actually such a condition as highway hypnosis? Or is it just plain falling asleep at the wheel? Call it highway hypnosis, lack of awareness, or whatever. There is something about an easy stretch of road with the same scenery, along with the hum of the tires on the road, the drone of the engine, and the rush of the wind against the vehicle that can make you sleepy. Do not let it happen to you! If it does, your vehicle can leave the road in less than a second, and you could crash and be injured. What can you do about highway hypnosis? First, be aware that it can happen.
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(cid:129) Hill and Mountain Roads
Then here are some tips: (cid:129) Make sure your vehicle is well ventilated, with
a comfortably cool interior.
(cid:129) Keep your eyes moving. Scan the road ahead and to the sides. Check your vehicle’s mirrors and instruments frequently. If you get sleepy, pull off the road into a rest, service, or parking area and take a nap, get some exercise, or both. For safety, treat drowsiness on the highway as an emergency.
Driving on steep hills or mountains is different from driving in flat or rolling terrain.
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(cid:129) If you drive regularly in steep country, or if you are planning to visit there, here are some tips that can make your trips safer and more enjoyable. (cid:129) Keep your vehicle in good shape. Check all fluid levels and also the brakes, tires, cooling system, and transmission. These parts can work hard on mountain roads.
{CAUTION:
If you do not shift down, the brakes could get so hot that they would not work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Shift down to let the engine assist the brakes on a steep downhill slope.
{CAUTION:
Coasting downhill in NEUTRAL (N) or with the ignition off is dangerous. The brakes will have to do all the work of slowing down. They could get so hot that they would not work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Always have the engine running and your vehicle in gear when you go downhill.
(cid:129) Know how to go down hills. The most important thing to know is this: let the engine do some of the slowing down. Shift to a lower gear when you go down a steep or long hill.
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(cid:129) Stay in your own lane when driving on two-lane roads in hills or mountains. Do not swing wide or cut across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let you stay in your own lane.
(cid:129) As you go over the top of a hill, be alert. There could be something in your lane, like a stalled car or an accident.
(cid:129) You might see highway signs on mountains that
warn of special problems. Examples are long grades, passing or no-passing zones, a falling rocks area, or winding roads. Be alert to these and take appropriate action.
Winter Driving Here are some tips for winter driving: (cid:129) Have your vehicle in good shape for winter. (cid:129) You might want to put winter emergency
supplies in your vehicle.
Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a supply of windshield washer fluid, a rag, some winter outer clothing, a small shovel, a flashlight, a red cloth, and a couple of reflective warning triangles. And, if you will be driving under severe conditions, include a small bag of sand, a piece of old carpet, or a couple of burlap bags to help provide traction. Be sure you properly secure these items in your vehicle. Also see Tires on page 425.
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Driving on Snow or Ice Most of the time, those places where the tires meet the road probably have good traction. However, if there is snow or ice between the tires and the road, you can have a very slippery situation. You have a lot less traction, or grip, and need to be very careful.
What is the worst time for this? Wet ice. Very cold snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice can be even more trouble because it can offer the least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it is about freezing, 32°F (0°C), and freezing rain begins to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews can get there.
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Whatever the condition — smooth ice, packed, blowing, or loose snow — drive with caution. StabiliTrak® improves your ability to accelerate when driving on a slippery road. Even with StabiliTrak®, slow down and adjust your driving to the road conditions. Under certain conditions, you might want to turn the traction control part of the StabiliTrak® System off, such as when driving through deep snow and loose gravel, to help maintain vehicle motion at lower speeds. See StabiliTrak® System on page 329 and If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand, Mud, Ice, or Snow on page 352.
The Antilock Brake System (ABS) improves your vehicle’s stability when you make a hard stop on a slippery road. Even though you have ABS, begin stopping sooner than you would on dry pavement. See Antilock Brake System (ABS) on page 327. (cid:129) Allow greater following distance on any
slippery road.
(cid:129) Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine until you hit a spot that is covered with ice. On an otherwise clear road, ice patches can appear in shaded areas where the sun cannot reach, such as around clumps of trees, behind buildings, or under bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass can remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you are on it. Try not to brake while you are actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers.
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If You Are Caught in a Blizzard If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a serious situation. You should probably stay with your vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near help and you can hike through the snow. Here are some things to do to summon help and keep yourself and your passengers safe: (cid:129) Turn on the hazard warning flashers. (cid:129) Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police
that you have been stopped by the snow.
(cid:129) Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around
you. If you do not have blankets or extra clothing, make body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags, floor mats — anything you can wrap around yourself or tuck under your clothing to keep warm.
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You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.
{CAUTION:
Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you. You cannot see it or smell it, so you might not know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking the exhaust pipe. And check around again from time to time to be sure snow does not collect there. Open a window just a little on the side of the vehicle that is away from the wind. This will help keep CO out.
Run the engine only as long as you must. This saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps the battery charged. You will need a well-charged battery to restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with the headlamps. Let the heater run for a while. Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again and repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or so until help comes.
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If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand, Mud, Ice, or Snow In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you need to spin the wheels, but you do not want to spin the wheels too fast. The method known as rocking can help you get out when you are stuck, but you must use caution.
{CAUTION:
If you let your vehicle’s tires spin at high speed, they can explode, and you or others could be injured. And, the transmission or other parts of the vehicle can overheat. That could cause an engine compartment fire or other damage. When you are stuck, spin the wheels as little as possible. Do not spin the wheels above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.
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Notice: Spinning the wheels can destroy parts of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting the transmission back and forth, you can destroy the transmission. For information about using tire chains on your vehicle, see Tire Chains on page 445.
Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out First, turn the steering wheel left and right to clear the area around the front wheels. Turn the traction control part of the StabiliTrak® System off. See StabiliTrak® System on page 329. Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible. To prevent transmission wear, wait until the wheels stop spinning before shifting gears. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear. By slowly spinning the wheels in the forward and reverse directions, you will cause a rocking motion that could free your vehicle. If that does not get your vehicle out after a few tries, it might need to be towed out. If your vehicle does need to be towed out, see Towing Your Vehicle on page 358.
Loading Your Vehicle It is very important to know how much weight your vehicle can carry. This weight is called the vehicle capacity weight and includes the weight of all occupants, cargo, and all nonfactory-installed options. Two labels on your vehicle show how much weight it may properly carry, the Tire and Loading Information label and the Certification/Tire label.
{CAUTION:
Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle.
Tire and Loading Information Label
Example Label
A vehicle specific Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the center pillar (B-pillar) of your vehicle. With the driver’s door open, you will find the label attached below the door lock post (striker). The tire and loading information label shows the number of occupant seating positions (A), and the maximum vehicle capacity weight (B) in kilograms and pounds.
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4. The resulting figure equals the available
amount of cargo and luggage load capacity. For example, if the “XXX” amount equals 1400 lbs and there will be five 150 lb passengers in your vehicle, the amount of available cargo and luggage load capacity is 650 lbs (1400 − 750 (5 x 150) = 650 lbs).
5. Determine the combined weight of luggage and cargo being loaded on the vehicle. That weight may not safely exceed the available cargo and luggage load capacity calculated in Step 4.
6. If your vehicle will be towing a trailer, the load
from your trailer will be transferred to your vehicle. Consult this manual to determine how this reduces the available cargo and luggage load capacity for your vehicle.
See Towing a Trailer on page 362 for important information on towing a trailer, towing safety rules, and trailering tips.
The Tire and Loading Information label also shows the size of the original equipment tires (C) and the recommended cold tire inflation pressures (D). For more information on tires and inflation see Tires on page 425 and Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 432. There is also important loading information on the vehicle Certification/Tire label. It tells you the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) and the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for the front and rear axle. See “Certification/Tire Label” later in this section. Steps for Determining Correct Load Limit 1. Locate the statement “The combined
weight of occupants and cargo should never exceed XXX kg or XXX lbs” on your vehicle’s placard.
2. Determine the combined weight of the driver
and passengers that will be riding in your vehicle.
3. Subtract the combined weight of the driver and passengers from XXX kg or XXX lbs.
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Example 1
Example 2
Item
Description
Total
Item
Description
Total
Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 1 = Subtract Occupant Weight 150 lbs (68 kg) × 2 = Available Occupant and Cargo Weight =
1,000 lbs (453 kg)
300 lbs (136 kg)
700 lbs (317 kg)
Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 2 = Subtract Occupant Weight 150 lbs (68 kg) × 5 = Available Cargo Weight =
1,000 lbs (453 kg)
750 lbs (340 kg)
250 lbs (113 kg)
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Certification/Tire Label
Example 3
Item
Description
Total
Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 3 = Subtract Occupant Weight 200 lbs (91 kg) × 5 = Available Cargo Weight =
1,000 lbs (453 kg)
1,000 lbs (453 kg)
0 lbs (0 kg)
Refer to your vehicle’s tire and loading information label for specific information about your vehicle’s capacity weight and seating positions. The combined weight of the driver, passengers, and cargo should never exceed your vehicle’s capacity weight.
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A vehicle specific Certification/Tire label is attached to the rear edge of the driver’s door. The label shows the gross weight capacity of your vehicle. This is called the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel, and cargo. The Certification/Tire label also tells you the maximum weights for the front and rear axles, called the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR).
To find out the actual loads on your front and rear axles, you need to go to a weigh station and weigh your vehicle. Your dealer/retailer can help you with this. Be sure to spread out your load equally on both sides of the centerline. Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle or the Rating GAWR for either the front or rear axle.
If you put things inside your vehicle — like suitcases, tools, packages, or anything else, they will go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they will keep going.
{CAUTION:
{CAUTION:
Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle.
Notice: Overloading your vehicle may cause damage. Repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not overload your vehicle.
Things you put inside your vehicle can strike and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or in a crash.
(cid:129) Put things in the cargo area of your
vehicle. Try to spread the weight evenly.
(cid:129) Never stack heavier things, like
suitcases, inside the vehicle so that some of them are above the tops of the seats.
(cid:129) Do not leave an unsecured child
restraint in your vehicle.
(cid:129) When you carry something inside the vehicle, secure it whenever you can.
(cid:129) Do not leave a seat folded down
unless you need to.
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Towing
Towing Your Vehicle Consult your dealer/retailer or a professional towing service if you need to have your disabled vehicle towed. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 509. If you want to tow your vehicle behind another vehicle for recreational purposes (such as behind a motorhome), see “Recreational Vehicle Towing” following.
Recreational Vehicle Towing Recreational vehicle towing means towing your vehicle behind another vehicle – such as behind a motorhome. The two most common types of recreational vehicle towing are known as “dinghy towing” (towing your vehicle with all four wheels on the ground) and “dolly towing” (towing your vehicle with two wheels on the ground and two wheels up on a device known as a “dolly”).
With the proper preparation and equipment, many vehicles can be towed in these ways. See “Dinghy Towing” and “Dolly Towing” following in this section. Here are some important things to consider before you do recreational vehicle towing: (cid:129) What’s the towing capacity of the towing vehicle? Be sure you read the tow vehicle manufacturer’s recommendations.
(cid:129) How far will you tow? Some vehicles have restrictions on how far and how long they can tow.
(cid:129) Do you have the proper towing equipment?
See your dealer/retailer or trailering professional for additional advice and equipment recommendations. Is your vehicle ready to be towed? Just as you would prepare your vehicle for a long trip, you’ll want to make sure your vehicle is prepared to be towed. See Before Leaving on a Long Trip on page 343.
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(cid:129) Dinghy Towing If you have a front-wheel-drive vehicle, it can be dinghy towed from the front. These vehicles may also be towed by putting the front wheels on a dolly. See “Dolly Towing” later in this section. If you have an all-wheel-drive vehicle, it can be dinghy towed from the front. You can also tow these vehicles by placing them on a platform trailer with all four wheels off of the ground. These vehicles cannot be towed using a dolly. For vehicles being dinghy towed, the vehicle should be run at the beginning of each day and at each RV fuel stop for about five minutes. This will ensure proper lubrication of transmission components. Put the IGN (Ignition) fuse in to start the vehicle.
To tow your vehicle from the front with all four wheels on the ground: 1. Position the vehicle to tow and then secure it. 2. Turn the ignition to OFF. 3. Set the parking brake. 4. To prevent your battery from draining while the vehicle is being towed, remove the IGN (Ignition) fuse from the underhood fuse block. See Underhood Fuse Block on page 479.
5. Turn the ignition to ACCESSORY.
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Dolly Towing (All-Wheel-Drive Vehicles)
All-wheel-drive vehicles must not be towed with two wheels on the ground. To properly tow these vehicles, they should be placed on a platform trailer with all four wheels off of the ground or dinghy towed from the front.
If you tow your vehicle without
6. Shift your transmission to NEUTRAL (N). 7. Release the parking brake. Notice: performing each of the steps listed under “Dinghy Towing,” you could damage the automatic transmission. Be sure to follow all steps of the dinghy towing procedure prior to and after towing your vehicle. Notice: towing your vehicle, it could be damaged. Never exceed 65 mph (105 km/h) while towing your vehicle. Once you have reached your destination, do the following: 1. Set the parking brake. 2. Turn the ignition key to OFF and remove the
If you exceed 65 mph (105 km/h) while
key from the ignition.
3. Reinstall the IGN (Ignition) fuse. Notice: Don’t tow a vehicle with the front drive wheels on the ground if one of the front tires is a compact spare tire. Towing with two different tire sizes on the front of the vehicle can cause severe damage to the transmission.
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Dolly Towing (Front-Wheel-Drive Vehicles Only)
Towing Your Vehicle From the Rear
To tow your front-wheel-drive vehicle from the front with two wheels on the ground: 1. Put the front wheels on a dolly. 2. Move the shift lever to PARK (P). 3. Set the parking brake and then remove the key. 4. Clamp the steering wheel in a straight-ahead position with a clamping device designed for towing.
5. Release the parking brake.
Notice: Towing your vehicle from the rear could damage it. Also, repairs would not be covered by the warranty. Never have your vehicle towed from the rear. Do not tow your vehicle from the rear.
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Towing a Trailer
{CAUTION:
If you do not use the correct equipment and drive properly, you can lose control when you pull a trailer. For example, if the trailer is too heavy, the brakes may not work well — or even at all. You and your passengers could be seriously injured. You may also damage your vehicle; the resulting repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Pull a trailer only if you have followed all the steps in this section. Ask your dealer/retailer for advice and information about towing a trailer with your vehicle.
To identify the trailering capacity of your vehicle, you should read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this section. But trailering is different than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, acceleration, braking, durability and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly. That’s the reason for this part. In it are many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before you pull a trailer. Load-pulling components such as the engine, transmission, rear axle, wheel assemblies and tires are forced to work harder against the drag of the added weight. The engine is required to operate at relatively higher speeds and under greater loads, generating extra heat. What’s more, the trailer adds considerably to wind resistance, increasing the pulling requirements.
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If You Do Decide to Pull a Trailer If you do, here are some important points: (cid:129) There are many different laws, including speed
limit restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure your rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you’ll be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police.
(cid:129) Consider using a sway control. You can ask a
hitch dealer/retailer about sway controls. (cid:129) Don’t tow a trailer at all during the first
500 miles (805 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine, axle or other parts could be damaged.
(cid:129) Then, during the first 500 miles (805 km) that
you tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the heavier loads.
(cid:129) Obey speed limit restrictions when towing a trailer. Don’t drive faster than the maximum posted speed for trailers, or no more than 55 mph (90 km/h), to save wear on your vehicle’s parts.
(cid:129) You can tow in DRIVE (D). You may want to
shift the transmission to THIRD (3) or, if necessary, a lower gear selection if the transmission shifts too often (e.g., under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions). See “Tow/Haul Mode” later in this section.
Three important considerations have to do with weight: (cid:129) The weight of the trailer (cid:129) The weight of the trailer tongue (cid:129) And the total weight on your vehicle’s tires
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Tow/Haul Mode Tow/Haul is a feature that assists when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load. The purpose of the Tow/Haul mode is to: (cid:129) Reduce the frequency and improve the predictability of transmission shifts when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load. (cid:129) Provide the same solid shift feel when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load as when the vehicle is unloaded. Improve control of vehicle speed while requiring less throttle pedal activity when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load. Increase the charging system voltage to assist in recharging a battery installed in a trailer.
Press this button on the console to enable/disable the tow/haul mode.
A light on the instrument panel will come on to indicate that tow/haul mode has been selected.
Tow/Haul may be turned off by pressing the button again, at which time the indicator light on the instrument panel will turn off. The vehicle will automatically turn off Tow/Haul every time it is started.
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(cid:129) (cid:129) Tow/Haul is designed to be most effective when the vehicle and trailer combined weight is at least 75 percent of the vehicle’s Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR). See Weight of the Trailer later in this section. Tow/Haul is most useful under the following driving conditions: (cid:129) When pulling a heavy trailer or a large or
heavy load through rolling terrain.
(cid:129) When pulling a heavy trailer or a large or
heavy load in stop and go traffic.
(cid:129) When pulling a heavy trailer or a large or
heavy load in busy parking lots where improved low speed control of the vehicle is desired.
Operating the vehicle in tow/haul when lightly loaded or with no trailer at all will not cause damage. However, there is no benefit to the selection of Tow/Haul when the vehicle is unloaded. Such a selection when unloaded may result in unpleasant engine and transmission driving characteristics and reduced fuel economy. Tow/Haul is recommended only when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load.
Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. It can also depend on any special equipment that you have on your vehicle, and the amount of tongue weight the vehicle can carry. See “Weight of the Trailer Tongue” later in this section for more information. Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming only the driver is in the tow vehicle and it has all the required trailering equipment. The weight of additional optional equipment, passengers and cargo in the tow vehicle must be subtracted from the maximum trailer weight.
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Look in the following chart to find the maximum trailer weight for your vehicle.
Package
Front-Wheel
Drive
All-Wheel Drive
Maximum
Trailer Weight
4,500 lbs (2 041 kg) 4,500 lbs (2 041 kg)
*GCWR
9,500 lbs (4 309 kg) 9,700 lbs (4 400 kg)
*The Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR) is the total allowable weight of the completely loaded vehicle and trailer including any passengers, cargo, equipment and conversions. The GCWR for your
vehicle should not be exceeded.
Ask your dealer/retailer for our trailering information or advice, or write us at our Customer Assistance Offices. See Customer Assistance Offices on page 508 for more information.
Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total or gross weight of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. If you have a lot of options, equipment, passengers or cargo in the vehicle, it will reduce the tongue weight your vehicle can carry, which will also reduce the trailer weight your vehicle can tow. And if you tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load to the GVW because your vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 353 for more information about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.
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Consider the following example: A vehicle model base weight is 5,500 lbs (2 495 kg); 2,800 lbs (1 270 kg) at the front axle and 2,700 lbs (1 225 kg) at the rear axle. It has a GVWR of 7,200 lbs (3 266 kg), a RGAWR of 4,000 lbs (1 814 kg) and a GCWR (Gross Combination Weight Rating) of 14,000 lbs (6 350 kg). The trailer rating should be:
You can expect tongue weight to be at least 10 percent of trailer weight (850 lbs (386 kg)) and because the weight is applied well behind the rear axle, the effect on the rear axle will be greater than just the weight itself, as much as 1.5 times as much. The weight at the rear axle could be 850 lbs (386 kg) X 1.5 = 1,275 lbs (578 kg). Since the rear axle already weighs 2,700 lbs (1 225 kg), adding 1,275 lbs (578 kg) brings the total to 3,975 lbs (1 803 kg). This is very close to, but within the limit for RGAWR as well. The vehicle is set to trailer up to 8,500 lbs (3 856 kg).
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If you’re using a weight-carrying hitch or a weight-distributing hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 10-15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B). After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they aren’t, you may be able to get them right simply by moving some items around in the trailer. Trailering may also be limited by the vehicle’s ability to carry tongue weight. Tongue weight cannot cause the vehicle to exceed the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) or the RGAWR (Rear Gross Axle Weight Rating). The effect of additional weight may reduce your trailering capacity more than the total of the additional weight.
1.5 times the actual weight. Dividing the 900 lbs (408 kg) by 1.5 leaves you with being able to handle only 600 lbs (272 kg) of tongue weight. Since tongue weight is usually at least 10 percent of total loaded trailer weight, you can expect that the largest trailer your vehicle can properly handle is 6,000 lbs (2 721 kg). It is important that you make sure your vehicle does not exceed any of its ratings — GCWR, GVWR, RGAWR, Maximum Trailer Rating or Tongue Weight. The only way to be sure you are not exceeding any of these ratings is to weigh your vehicle and trailer. Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the upper limit for cold tires. You’ll find these numbers on the Certification/Tire label. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 353. Then be sure you don’t go over the GVW limit for your vehicle, including the weight of the trailer tongue.
But let’s say your specific vehicle is equipped with some of the latest options and you have a front seat passenger and two rear seat passengers with some luggage and gear in the vehicle as well. You may add 300 lbs (136 kg) to the front axle weight and 400 lbs (181 kg) to the rear axle weight. Your vehicle now weighs:
Weight is still below 7,200 lbs (3 266 kg) and you may think that you should subtract 700 additional pounds (318 kg) from your trailering capacity to stay within GCWR limits. Your maximum trailer would only be 7,800 lbs (3 538 kg). You may go further and think you must limit tongue weight to less than 1,000 lbs (454 kg) to avoid exceeding GVWR. But, you must still consider the effect on the rear axle. Because your rear axle now weighs 3,100 lbs (1 406 kg), you can only put 900 lbs (408 kg) on the rear axle without exceeding RGAWR. The effect of tongue weight is about
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Hitches It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch. Here are some rules to follow: (cid:129) The rear bumper on your vehicle is not
intended for hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or other bumper-type hitches to it. Use only a frame-mounted hitch that does not attach to the bumper.
(cid:129) Will you have to make any holes in the body
of your vehicle when you install a trailer hitch? If you do, then be sure to seal the holes later when you remove the hitch. If you don’t seal them, deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from your exhaust can get into your vehicle. See Engine Exhaust on page 137. Dirt and water can, too.
Safety Chains You should always attach chains between your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer so that the tongue will not drop to the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety chains and do not attach them to the bumper. Always leave just enough slack so you can turn with your rig. And, never allow safety chains to drag on the ground. Trailer Brakes If you tow more than 1,000 lbs (450 kg), use trailer brakes. Because your vehicle has anti-lock brakes, don’t try to tap into your vehicle’s hydraulic brake system. If you do, both brake systems won’t work well, or at all. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install, adjust and maintain them properly.
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Driving with a Trailer Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as responsive as your vehicle is by itself. Before you start, check all trailer hitch parts and attachments, safety chains, electrical connector, lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your electrical connection at the same time. During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working.
Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns. Passing You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane. Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you.
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Making Turns Notice: Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering. When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance. Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer When you tow a trailer, your vehicle may need a different turn signal flasher and/or extra wiring. Check with your dealer/retailer. The arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other drivers you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop. When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal
when they are not. It’s important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working. Driving on Grades Your vehicle is designed primarily as a passenger and load carrying vehicle. If you tow a trailer, your vehicle will require more frequent maintenance due to the additional load. Because of the added load of the trailer, your vehicle’s engine may overheat on hot days, when going up a long or steep grade with a trailer. If the engine coolant temperature gage indicates overheating, turn off the air conditioning to reduce engine load, pull off the road and stop in a safe spot. Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce your speed to around 55 mph (88 km/h) to reduce the possibility of the engine and the transmission overheating.
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Parking on Hills
{CAUTION:
You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged.
But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s how to do it: 1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into
PARK (P). When parking uphill, turn your wheels away from the curb. When parking downhill, turn your wheels into the curb.
2. Have someone place chocks behind the trailer
wheels.
3. When the chocks are in place, release
the regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your
parking brake and shift into PARK (P).
5. Release the regular brakes. When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal
down while you:
start your engine, shift into a gear, and release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the
chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the
chocks.
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(cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) Maintenance When Trailer Towing Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 488 for more information. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transmission fluid (don’t overfill), engine oil, axle lubricant, drive belt, cooling system and brake system. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review this information before you start your trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight.
Trailer Wiring Harness Your vehicle is equipped with the following wiring harness for towing a trailer. Basic Trailer Wiring The trailer wiring harness, with a seven-pin connector, is located at the rear of the vehicle and is tied to the vehicle’s frame. The harness connector can be plugged into a seven-pin universal heavy-duty trailer connector available through your dealer/retailer.
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The seven-wire harness contains the following trailer circuits: (cid:129) Yellow: Left Stop/Turn Signal (cid:129) Dark Green: Right Stop/Turn Signal (cid:129) Brown: Taillamps (cid:129) White: Ground
Light Green: Back-up Lamps
(cid:129) Red: Battery Feed* (cid:129) Dark Blue: Trailer Brake* *The fuses for these two circuits are installed in the underhood electrical center, but the wires are not connected. They should be connected by your dealer/retailer or a qualified service center.
If you are charging a remote (non-vehicle) battery, press the tow/haul mode button located at the end of the shift lever. This will boost the vehicle system voltage and properly charge the battery. If the trailer is too light for tow/haul mode, you can turn on the headlamps (Non-HID only) as a second way to boost the vehicle system and charge the battery. Engine Cooling When Trailer Towing Your cooling system may temporarily overheat during severe operating conditions. See Engine Overheating on page 400.
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(cid:129) Section 5
Service and Appearance Care
Service ........................................................ 377
Accessories and Modifications ................... 377
California Proposition 65 Warning .............. 378
Doing Your Own Service Work .................. 378
Adding Equipment to the Outside ofYour Vehicle .......................................... 379
Fuel ............................................................. 379
Gasoline Octane ........................................ 379
Gasoline Specifications .............................. 379
California Fuel ........................................... 380
Additives ................................................... 380
Fuels in Foreign Countries ........................ 381
Filling the Tank ......................................... 381
Filling a Portable Fuel Container ............... 384
Checking Things Under the Hood .............. 384
Hood Release ........................................... 385
Engine Compartment Overview .................. 386
Engine Oil ................................................. 387
Engine Oil Life System .............................. 390
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter ............................ 392
Automatic Transmission Fluid .................... 394
Engine Coolant .......................................... 396
Radiator Pressure Cap .............................. 399
Engine Overheating ................................... 400Overheated Engine Protection
Operating Mode ..................................... 402
Cooling System ......................................... 402
Power Steering Fluid ................................. 408
Windshield Washer Fluid ........................... 409
Brakes ...................................................... 410
Battery ...................................................... 413
Jump Starting ............................................ 414
All-Wheel Drive ........................................... 420
Headlamp Aiming ........................................ 421
Bulb Replacement ....................................... 422
High Intensity Discharge (HID) Lighting ..... 422
Halogen Bulbs ........................................... 422
License Plate Lamp ................................... 423
Replacement Bulbs ................................... 423
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement ....... 424
Tires ............................................................ 425
Tire Sidewall Labeling ............................... 426
Tire Terminology and Definitions ............... 429
Inflation - Tire Pressure ............................. 432
Tire Pressure Monitor System ................... 433
Tire Inspection and Rotation ...................... 438
When It Is Time for New Tires .................. 440375
Section 5
Service and Appearance Care
Buying New Tires ...................................... 440
Different Size Tires and Wheels ................ 442
Uniform Tire Quality Grading ..................... 442
Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance ............ 444
Wheel Replacement .................................. 444
Tire Chains ............................................... 445
If a Tire Goes Flat .................................... 446
Changing a Flat Tire ................................. 447
Removing the Spare Tire and Tools .......... 448
Removing the Flat Tire and Installingthe Spare Tire ....................................... 451
Secondary Latch System ........................... 456
Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools ...... 459
Compact Spare Tire .................................. 463
Appearance Care ........................................ 464
Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle .......... 464
Fabric/Carpet ............................................. 465
Leather ...................................................... 466
Instrument Panel, Vinyl, and OtherPlastic Surfaces ..................................... 467
Care of Safety Belts .................................. 467
Weatherstrips ............................................ 467
Washing Your Vehicle ............................... 468
Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses ................ 468376
Finish Care ............................................... 468
Windshield, Backglass, andWiper Blades .......................................... 469
Aluminum or Chrome-Plated
Wheels and Trim ................................... 470
Tires ......................................................... 471
Sheet Metal Damage ................................. 471
Finish Damage .......................................... 471
Underbody Maintenance ............................ 472
Chemical Paint Spotting ............................ 472
Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials ............ 473
Vehicle Identification .................................. 474
Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) ........... 474
Service Parts Identification Label ............... 474
Electrical System ........................................ 475
High Voltage Devices and Wiring .............. 475
Add-On Electrical Equipment ..................... 475
Windshield Wiper Fuses ............................ 475
Power Windows and OtherPower Options ....................................... 476
Fuses and Circuit Breakers ....................... 476
Instrument Panel Fuse Block ..................... 476
Underhood Fuse Block .............................. 479
Capacities and Specifications .................... 483Service Your dealer/retailer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you will go to your dealer/retailer for all your service needs. You will get genuine Saturn parts and Saturn-trained and supported service people. We hope you will want to keep your Saturn vehicle all Saturn. Genuine Saturn parts have one of these marks.
Accessories and Modifications When you add non-Saturn accessories to your vehicle they can affect your vehicle’s performance and safety, including such things as, airbags, braking, stability, ride and handling, emissions systems, aerodynamics, durability, and electronic systems like anti-lock brakes, traction control, and stability control. Some of these accessories may even cause malfunction or damage not covered by warranty. Saturn accessories are designed to complement and function with other systems on your vehicle. Your Saturn retailer can accessorize your vehicle using genuine Saturn accessories. When you go to your Saturn retailer and ask for Saturn accessories, you will know that Saturn-trained and supported service technicians will perform the work using genuine Saturn accessories.
377
California Proposition 65 Warning Most motor vehicles, including this one, contain and/or emit chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. Engine exhaust, many parts and systems (including some inside the vehicle), many fluids, and some component wear by-products contain and/or emit these chemicals.
Doing Your Own Service Work
{CAUTION:
You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it.
(cid:129) Be sure you have sufficient knowledge,
experience, the proper replacement parts, and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task. CAUTION:
(Continued)
378
CAUTION:
(Continued)
(cid:129) Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts,
and other fasteners. English and metric fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.
If you want to do some of your own service work, you should use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 518. Your vehicle has an airbag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see Servicing Your Airbag-Equipped Vehicle on page 91. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See Maintenance Record on page 500.
Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airflow around it. This can cause wind noise and can affect fuel economy and windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer/retailer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle. Fuel Use of the recommended fuel is an important part of the proper maintenance of your vehicle. To help keep the engine clean and maintain optimum vehicle performance, we recommend the use of gasoline advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline.
Gasoline Octane Use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 87 or higher. For best performance or trailer towing, you could choose to use middle grade 89 octane unleaded gasoline. If the octane rating is less than 87, you might notice an audible knocking noise when you drive, commonly referred to as spark knock. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. If you are using gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, the engine needs service.
Gasoline Specifications At a minimum, gasoline should meet ASTM specification D 4814 in the United States or CAN/CGSB-3.5 or 3.511 in Canada. Some gasolines contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT). We recommend against the use of gasolines containing MMT. See Additives on page 380 for additional information.
379
California Fuel If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emissions Standards, it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. See the underhood emission control label. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance might be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp could turn on and your vehicle might fail a smog-check test. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 222. If this occurs, return to your authorized dealer/retailer for diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs might not be covered by your warranty.
Additives To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing the emission control system to work properly. In most cases, you should not have to add anything to the fuel.
380
However, some gasolines contain only the minimum amount of additive required to meet U.S. Environmental Protection Agency regulations. To help keep fuel injectors and intake valves clean, or if your vehicle experiences problems due to dirty injectors or valves, look for gasoline that is advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. Also, your dealer/retailer has additives that will help correct and prevent most deposit-related problems. Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines might be available in your area. We recommend that you use these gasolines, if they comply with the specifications described earlier. However, E85 (85% ethanol) and other fuels containing more than 10% ethanol must not be used in vehicles that were not designed for those fuels. Notice: Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in the fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under your warranty.
Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions can contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT. We recommend against the use of such gasolines. Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system could be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp might turn on. If this occurs, return to your dealer/retailer for service.
Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel might be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel would not be covered by your warranty. To check the fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you will be driving.
Filling the Tank
{CAUTION:
Fuel vapor burns violently and a fuel fire can cause bad injuries. To help avoid injuries to you and others, read and follow all the instructions on the pump island. Turn off your engine when you are refueling. Do not smoke if you are near fuel or refueling your vehicle. Do not use cellular phones. Keep sparks, flames, and smoking materials away from fuel. Do not leave the fuel pump unattended when refueling your vehicle. This is against the law in some places. Do not re-enter the vehicle while pumping fuel. Keep children away from the fuel pump; never let children pump fuel.
The tethered fuel cap is located behind a hinged fuel door on the driver’s side of the vehicle.
381
To open the fuel door, push the rearward center edge in and release. The door will pop open.
To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly counterclockwise. The fuel cap has a spring in it; if the cap is released too soon, it will spring back to the right. While refueling, hang the tethered fuel cap from the hook on the fuel door.
382
{CAUTION:
Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. If you spill fuel and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any hiss noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.
Be careful not to spill fuel. Do not top off or overfill the tank and wait a few seconds after you have finished pumping before removing the nozzle. Clean fuel from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 468. When replacing the fuel cap, turn it clockwise until it clicks. Make sure the cap is fully installed. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 222.
If your vehicle has a Driver Information Center (DIC), the TIGHTEN GAS CAP message will be displayed if the fuel cap is not properly installed.
{CAUTION:
If a fire starts while you are refueling, do not remove the nozzle. Shut off the flow of fuel by shutting off the pump or by notifying the station attendant. Leave the area immediately.
If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to
Notice: get the right type. Your dealer/ retailer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage your fuel tank and emissions system. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 222.
383
Filling a Portable Fuel Container
{CAUTION:
Checking Things Under the Hood
Never fill a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others:
(cid:129) Dispense gasoline only into approved
containers.
(cid:129) Do not fill a container while it is inside a
vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed, or on any surface other than the ground.
(cid:129) Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the
inside of the fill opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the filling is complete.
(cid:129) Do not smoke while pumping gasoline. (cid:129) Do not use a cellular phone while
pumping gasoline.
384
{CAUTION:
An electric fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan.
{CAUTION:
Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.
Hood Release To open the hood, do the following:
1. Pull the hood
release handle with this symbol on it. It is located under the instrument panel on the driver’s side of the vehicle.
Before closing the hood, be sure all filler caps are on properly. Pull the hood down to close. Lower the hood until the lifting pressure of the strut is reduced. Then allow the hood to fall and latch into place under its own weight. Check to make sure the hood is closed. If the hood does not fully latch, gently push the hood down at the front and center of the hood until it is completely latched.
2. At the front of the vehicle, pull up on the
center of the hood, and push the secondary hood release to the right.
3. After you have partially lifted the hood, gas struts will automatically take over to lift and hold the hood in the fully open position.
385
Engine Compartment Overview When you lift the hood, here is what you will see:
386
A. Radiator Pressure Cap (Out of View). See
Radiator Pressure Cap on page 399.
B. Engine Coolant Recovery Cap. See Cooling
System on page 402.
C. Underhood Fuse Block. See Underhood Fuse
Block on page 479.
D. Remote Positive (+) Terminal. See Jump
Starting on page 414.
E. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See Power
Steering Fluid on page 408.
F. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine
Oil” under Engine Oil on page 387.
G. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”
under Engine Oil on page 387.
H. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick. See “Checking the Fluid Level” under Automatic Transmission Fluid on page 394.
I. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake
Fluid” under Brakes on page 410.
J. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 392.
K. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 409.
Engine Oil Checking Engine Oil It is a good idea to check the engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground. The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 386
for the location of the engine oil dipstick. 1. Turn off the engine and give the oilseveral minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you do not do this, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.
2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper
towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.
387
When to Add Engine Oil
See Engine Compartment Overview on page 386 for the location of the engine oil fill cap.
If the oil is below the cross-hatched area at the tip of the dipstick, you need to add at least one quart/liter of oil. But you must use the right kind. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Specifications on page 483. Notice: Do not add too much oil. If the engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, the engine could be damaged.
Be sure to add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range in the cross-hatched area. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you are through.
388
What Kind of Engine Oil to Use
These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50.
(cid:129) Oils meeting these
requirements should have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API).
Look for three things: (cid:129) GM6094M
Your vehicle’s engine requires oil meeting GM Standard GM6094M. Look for and use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM6094M.
(cid:129) SAE 5W-30
As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle.
Look for this information on the oil container, and use only those oils that are identified as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and have the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. Notice: Use only engine oil identified as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and showing the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty.
389
When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it will indicate that an oil change is necessary. A CHANGE ENGINE OIL SOON message will come on. Change the oil as soon as possible within the next 600 miles (1 000 km). It is possible that, if you are driving under the best conditions, the oil life system might not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, the engine oil and filter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. Your dealer/retailer has trained service people who will perform this work using genuine parts and reset the system. It is also important to check the oil regularly and keep it at the proper level. If the system is ever reset accidentally, you must change the oil at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since your last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed.
If you are in an area of extreme cold, where the temperature falls below −20°F (−29°C), it is recommended that you use either an SAE 5W-30
synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both provide easier cold starting and better protection for the engine at extremely low temperatures. Engine Oil Additives Do not add anything to the oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol that meet GM Standard GM6094M are all you need for good performance and engine protection.Engine Oil Life System When to Change Engine Oil Your vehicle has a computer system that lets you know when to change the engine oil and filter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change will be indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, you must reset the system every time the oil is changed.
390
How to Reset the Engine Oil Life System The Engine Oil Life System calculates when to change the engine oil and filter based on vehicle use. Whenever the oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where you change the oil prior to a CHANGE ENGINE OIL SOON message being turned on, reset the system. If your vehicle does not have Driver Information Center (DIC) buttons: 1. Turn the ignition to ON, with the engine off. The vehicle must be in PARK (P) to access this display. Press the trip odometer reset stem until OIL LIFE REMAINING displays.
2. Press and hold the trip odometer reset stem
until OIL LIFE REMAINING shows 100%. You will hear three chimes and the CHANGE ENGINE OIL SOON message will go off.
3. Turn the key to OFF.
If the CHANGE ENGINE OIL SOON message comes back on when you start your vehicle, the engine oil life system has not reset. Repeat the procedure.
If your vehicle has Driver Information Center (DIC) buttons: 1. Turn the ignition to ON, with the engine off. 2. Press the vehicle information button until OIL
LIFE REMAINING displays.
3. Press and hold the set/reset button until 100%
is displayed. You will hear three chimes and the CHANGE ENGINE OIL SOON message will go off.
4. Turn the key to OFF. If the CHANGE ENGINE OIL SOON message comes back on when you start your vehicle, the engine oil life system has not reset. Repeat the procedure.
391
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter When to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Inspect the air cleaner/filter at the Maintenance II intervals and replace it at the first oil change after each 50,000 mile (83 000 km) interval. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 488 for more information. If you are driving in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect the filter at each engine oil change.
What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that can be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the filter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of used oil, ask your dealer/retailer, a service station, or a local recycling center for help.
392
See Engine Compartment Overview on page 386
for the location of the engine air cleaner/filter.How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter To inspect the air cleaner/filter, remove the filter from the vehicle and lightly shake the filter (away from vehicle) to release loose dust and dirt. If the filter remains caked with dirt, a new filter is required. To inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/filter, do the following: 1. Loosen the screws that hold the cover on. 2. Disconnect the electrical connector. 3. Lift off the cover. 4. Remove the engine air cleaner/filter element
and any loose debris that may be found in the air cleaner base.
5. Inspect or replace the air filter element. 6. Reverse Steps 1 through 3 to reinstall the
cover and reconnect the electrical connector.
{CAUTION:
Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps to stop flames if the engine backfires. If it is not there and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.
If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire
Notice: can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you are driving.
393
Automatic Transmission Fluid When to Check and Change Automatic Transmission Fluid A good time to check the automatic transmission fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change the fluid at the intervals listed in Additional Required Services on page 491, and be sure to use the transmission fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 497. How to Check Automatic Transmission Fluid Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealer/retailer service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.
Notice: Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Too little fluid could cause the transmission to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid. Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission fluid level if you have been driving: (cid:129) When outside temperatures are above
90°F (32°C).
(cid:129) At high speed for quite a while.
In heavy traffic — especially in hot weather.
(cid:129) While pulling a trailer. To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), you may have to drive longer.
394
(cid:129) See Engine Compartment Overview on page 386
for more information on location. 1. Remove the dipstick and wipe it with a cleanrag or paper towel.
2. Reinstall back in all the way, wait
three seconds and then pull it back out again.
Checking the Fluid Level Prepare the vehicle as follows: 1. Park the vehicle on a level place. Keep the
engine running.
2. With the parking brake applied, place the shift
lever in PARK (P).
3. With your foot on the brake pedal, move the
shift lever through each gear, pausing for about three seconds in each one. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P).
4. Let the engine run at idle for three to
five minutes.
Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:
The transmission fluid dipstick cap has this symbol on it, and is located near the front of the engine compartment.
3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the
lower level. The fluid level must be in the crosshatched area.
4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range,
twist & lock dipstick cap in place.
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How to Add Automatic Transmission Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transmission fluid to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 497. If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level into the crosshatched area on the dipstick. 1. Remove the dipstick. 2. Using a long-neck funnel, add enough fluid at the dipstick hole to bring it to the proper level. It does not take much fluid, generally less than one half of a pint (0.25 L). Do not overfill.
Notice: Use of the incorrect automatic transmission fluid may damage your vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use the automatic transmission fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 497. 3. After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as described under “How to Check Automatic Transmission Fluid,” earlier in this section.
4. When the correct fluid level is obtained, twist
& lock dipstick cap in place.
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Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for five years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if you add only DEX-COOL® extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating or if you need to add coolant to the radiator, see Engine Overheating on page 400. A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant will: (cid:129) Give freezing protection down
to −34°F (−37°C).
(cid:129) Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C). (cid:129) Protect against rust and corrosion. (cid:129) Help keep the proper engine temperature.
Let the warning lights and gages work as they should.
(cid:129) Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at the first maintenance service after each 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle. What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL® coolant which will not damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you do not need to add anything else.
{CAUTION:
Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.
If you use an improper coolant
Notice: mixture, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core, and other parts.
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If you use extra inhibitors and/or
If coolant needs to be added more than four times a year, have your dealer/retailer check the cooling system. Notice: additives in your vehicle’s cooling system, you could damage your vehicle. Use only the proper mixture of the engine coolant listed in this manual for the cooling system. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 497 for more information.
Checking Coolant
The coolant recovery tank cap has this symbol on it.
See Engine Compartment Overview on page 386
for more information on the location of the coolant recovery tank. The vehicle must be on a level surface when checking the coolant level. When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the FULL COLD line or a little higher. When the engine is warm, the level could be above the FULL COLD level. The FULL COLD line is marked on the coolant recovery tank.398
Adding Coolant If more coolant is needed, add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture at the coolant recovery tank, but be careful not to spill it. If the coolant recovery tank is completely empty, add coolant to the radiator. See Engine Overheating on page 400.
{CAUTION:
Turning the radiator pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. With the coolant recovery tank, you will almost never have to add coolant at the radiator. Never turn the radiator pressure cap — even a little — when the engine and radiator are hot.
{CAUTION:
You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.
Occasionally check the coolant level in the radiator. For information on how to add coolant to the radiator, see Cooling System on page 402. Radiator Pressure Cap Notice: installed, coolant loss and possible engine damage may occur. Be sure the cap is properly and tightly secured. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 386
for more information on location.If the pressure cap is not tightly
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Engine Overheating There is an engine coolant temperature gage on your vehicle’s instrument panel. See Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 220. Your vehicle may also have an ENGINE OVERHEATED IDLE ENGINE and ENGINE OVERHEATED STOP ENGINE message displayed in the Driver Information Center (DIC). See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 239. If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine
{CAUTION:
Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood.
CAUTION:
(Continued)
400
CAUTION:
(Continued)
If you keep driving when the vehicles engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 402 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency.
If your engine catches fire because
Notice: you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 402 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency.
If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning does not come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there is still no sign of steam, idle the engine for three minutes while you are parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. Also, see “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” later in this section. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.
If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine If you get an engine overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: (cid:129) Climb a long hill on a hot day. (cid:129) Stop after high-speed driving. Idle for long periods in traffic.
(cid:129) Tow a trailer. If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. If your air conditioner is on, turn it off. 2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest
fan speed and open the windows as necessary.
3. If you are in a traffic jam, shift to NEUTRAL (N);
otherwise, shift to the highest gear while driving — DRIVE (D) or LOW (L).
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(cid:129) Cooling System When you decide it is safe to lift the hood, here is what you will see:
A. Engine Coolant Reservoir B. Radiator Pressure Cap (covered) C. Engine Cooling Fans
Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode This emergency operating mode lets your vehicle be driven to a safe place in an emergency situation. If an overheated engine condition exists, an overheat protection mode which alternates firing groups of cylinders helps prevent engine damage. In this mode, there is a significant loss in power and engine performance. The temperature gage indicates an overheat condition exists. Driving extended distances and/or towing a trailer in the overheat protection mode should be avoided. Notice: After driving in the overheated engine protection operating mode, to avoid engine damage, allow the engine to cool before attempting any repair. The engine oil will be severely degraded. Repair the cause of coolant loss, change the oil and reset the oil life system. See Engine Oil on page 387.
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