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you will want to slow down and adjust your driving to the road conditions. See Traction Control System (TCS) on page 4-9. Unless you have the anti-lock braking system, you will want to brake very gently, too. (If you do have anti-lock, see Braking on page 4-6. This system improves your vehicle’s stability when you make a hard stop on a slippery road.) Whether you have the anti-lock braking system or not, you will want to begin stopping sooner than you would on dry pavement. Without anti-lock brakes, if you feel your vehicle begin to slide, let up on the brakes a little. Push the brake pedal down steadily to get the most traction you can.


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Remember, unless you have anti-lock, if you brake so hard that your wheels stop rolling, you will just slide. Brake so your wheels always keep rolling and you can still steer. (cid:127) Whatever your braking system, allow greater


following distance on any slippery road.


(cid:127) Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine


until you hit a spot that is covered with ice. On an otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in shaded areas where the sun can not reach: around clumps of trees, behind buildings or under bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass may remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you are on it. Try not to brake while you are actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers.


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If You Are Caught in a Blizzard


If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a serious situation. You should probably stay with your vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near help and you can hike through the snow. Here are some things to do to summon help and keep yourself and your passengers safe:


Turn on your hazard flashers. Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police that you have been stopped by the snow.


(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around you.


If you have no blankets or extra clothing, make body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags, floor mats — anything you can wrap around yourself or tuck under your clothing to keep warm.


You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.


{CAUTION:


Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you. You can not see it or smell it, so you might not know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking your exhaust pipe. And check around again from time to time to be sure snow does not collect there. Open a window just a little on the side of the vehicle that is away from the wind. This will help keep CO out.


Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps the battery charged. You will need a well-charged battery to restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with your headlamps. Let the heater run for a while.


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Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again and repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or so until help comes.


If You Are Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you will need to spin the wheels, but you do not want to spin your wheels too fast. The method known as “rocking” can help you get out when you are stuck, but you must use caution.


{CAUTION:


If you let your tires spin at high speed, they can explode, and you or others could be injured. And, the transaxle or other parts of the vehicle can overheat. That could cause an engine compartment fire or other damage. When you are stuck, spin the wheels as little as possible. Do not spin the wheels above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.


Notice: Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting your transaxle back and forth, you can destroy your transaxle. See “Rocking Your Vehicle To Get It Out.” For information about using tire chains on your vehicle, see Tire Chains on page 5-68.


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Rocking Your Vehicle To Get It Out First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will clear the area around your front wheels. You should turn your traction control system off. See Traction Control System (TCS) on page 4-9. Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transaxle is in gear. By slowly spinning your wheels in the forward and reverse directions, you will cause a rocking motion that may free your vehicle. If that does not get you out after a few tries, you may need to be towed out. Or, you can use your recovery hook. If you do need to be towed out, see Towing Your Vehicle on page 4-32. Using the Recovery Hook Your vehicle is equipped with a recovery hook. The recovery hook is provided at the rear of your vehicle. It can only be used for pulling your vehicle out.


{CAUTION:


The recovery hook, when used, is under a lot of force. Always pull the vehicle straight out. Never pull on the hook at a sideways angle. The hook could break off and you or others could be injured from the chain or cable snapping back.


Notice: Never use the recovery hook to tow the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged and it would not be covered by warranty.


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Towing


Towing Your Vehicle Consult your dealer or a professional towing service if you need to have your disabled vehicle towed. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-6. If you want to tow your vehicle behind another vehicle for recreational purposes (such as behind a motorhome), see “Recreational Vehicle Towing” following.


Recreational Vehicle Towing Recreational vehicle towing means towing your vehicle behind another vehicle – such as behind a motorhome. The two most common types of recreational vehicle towing are known as “dinghy towing” (towing your vehicle with all four wheels on the ground) and “dolly towing” (towing your vehicle with two wheels on the ground and two wheels up on a device known as a “dolly”).


With the proper preparation and equipment, many vehicles can be towed in these ways. See “Dinghy Towing” and “Dolly Towing,” following. Here are some important things to consider before you do recreational vehicle towing: (cid:127) What’s the towing capacity of the towing vehicle? Be sure you read the tow vehicle manufacturer’s recommendations.


(cid:127) How far will you tow? Some vehicles have


restrictions on how far and how long they can tow.


(cid:127) Do you have the proper towing equipment? See your dealer or trailering professional for additional advice and equipment recommendations. Is your vehicle ready to be towed? Just as you would prepare your vehicle for a long trip, you’ll want to make sure your vehicle is prepared to be towed. See Before Leaving on a Long Trip on page 4-23.


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(cid:127) Dinghy Towing You may dinghy tow your vehicle from the front following these steps:


6. Close the hood. 7. Release the parking brake. Once you have reached your destination replace the IGN 0/3/CR and IGN 1/2 fuses. Notice: towing your vehicle, it could be damaged. Never exceed 65 mph (110 km/h) while towing your vehicle.


If you exceed 65 mph (110 km/h) while


1. Set the parking brake. 2. Turn the ignition key to ACC to unlock the steering


wheel.


3. Shift your transaxle to NEUTRAL (N). 4. Open the lid on the underhood fuse block and


remove the IGN 0/3/CR and IGN 1/2 fuses. Refer to the underside of the underhood fuse block cover for specific fuse locations.


5. Close the lid on the underhood fuse block and store


the two fuses in a safe place.


Notice: Towing your vehicle from the rear could damage it. Also, repairs would not be covered by the warranty. Never have your vehicle towed from the rear.


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Loading Your Vehicle It is very important to know how much weight your vehicle can carry. This weight is called the vehicle capacity weight and includes the weight of all occupants, cargo and all nonfactory-installed options. Two labels on your vehicle show how much weight it may properly carry, the Tire and Loading Information label and the Certification label.


{CAUTION:


Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the GVWR, or either the maximum front or rear GAWR. If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle.


Dolly Towing


Your vehicle can be towed using a dolly. To tow your vehicle using a dolly, follow these steps: 1. Put the front wheels on a dolly. 2. Put the vehicle in PARK (P). 3. Set the parking brake and remove the key. 4. Clamp the steering wheel in a straight-ahead


position with a clamping device designed for towing.


5. Release the parking brake.


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Tire and Loading Information Label


A. Vehicle Capacity Weight


Example 1


Example 2


A. Vehicle Capacity Weight The Tire and Loading Information label shows the seating capacity and the total weight your vehicle can properly carry. This weight is called the vehicle capacity weight. If your vehicle has the Tire and Loading Information label, Example 1, the label is attached to the center pillar, near the driver’s door latch. If your vehicle has the Tire-Loading Information label, Example 2, the label is on the rear edge of the driver’s door.


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The Tire and Loading Information label also gives you the size and recommended inflation pressure for the factory-installed, original equipment tires on your vehicle. For more information on tires and inflation see Tires on page 5-54 and Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-61. There is also important loading information on the Certification label. It tells you the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) and the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for the front and rear axle; see “Certification Label” later in this section. Steps for Determining Correct Load Limit 1. Locate the statement “The combined weight of occupants and cargo should never exceed XXX pounds” on your vehicle placard.


2. Determine the combined weight of the driver and


passengers that will be riding in your vehicle.


3. Subtract the combined weight of the driver and


passengers from XXX kilograms or XXX pounds.


4. The resulting figure equals the available amount of


cargo and luggage load capacity. For example, if the “XXX” amount equals 1400 lbs. and there will be five 150 lb. passengers in your vehicle, the amount of available cargo and luggage load capacity is 650 lbs. (1400 − 750 (5 x 150) = 650 lbs.).


5. Determine the combined weight of luggage and cargo being loaded on the vehicle. That weight may not safely exceed the available cargo and luggage load capacity calculated in Step 4.


6. If your vehicle will be towing a trailer, the load from


your trailer will be transferred to your vehicle. Consult this manual to determine how this reduces the available cargo and luggage load capacity of your vehicle.


If your vehicle can tow a trailer, see Towing a Trailer on page 4-40, for important information on towing a trailer, towing safety rules and trailering tips.


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Example 1


Example 2


Loading Your Vehicle


Loading Your Vehicle


Item


Description


Total


Item


Description


Total


Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 1= Subtract Occupant Weight 150 lbs (68 kg) × 2 = Available Occupant and Cargo Weight =


1,000 lbs (453 kg)


300 lbs (136 kg)


700 lbs (317 kg)


Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 2 = Subtract Occupant Weight 150 lbs (68 kg) × 5 = Available Occupant and Cargo Weight =


1,000 lbs (453 kg)


750 lbs (340 kg)


250 lbs (113 kg)


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Refer to your vehicle’s tire and loading information label for specific information about your vehicle’s capacity weight and seating positions. The combined weight of the driver, passengers and cargo should never exceed your vehicle’s capacity weight. Also see Towing a Trailer on page 4-40. Certification Label


The Certification label is found on the rear edge of the driver’s door. It tells you the gross weight capacity of your vehicle, called the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR).


Example 3


Loading Your Vehicle


Item


Description


Total


Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 3 = Subtract Occupant Weight 200 lbs (91 kg) × 5 = Available Occupant and Cargo Weight =


1,000 lbs (453 kg)


1,000 lbs (453 kg)


0 lbs (0 kg)


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The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel and cargo. Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle or the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for either the front or rear axle. If you do have a heavy load, spread it out. Don’t carry more than 167 pounds (75 kg) in your trunk.


{CAUTION:


Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the GVWR, or either the maximum front or rear GAWR. If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle.


Notice: Overloading your vehicle may cause damage. Repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not overload your vehicle. If you put things inside your vehicle — like suitcases, tools, packages or anything else — they will go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they’ll keep going.


{CAUTION:


Things you put inside your vehicle can strike and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or in a crash.


(cid:127) Put things in the trunk of your vehicle. In a trunk, put them as far forward as you can. Try to spread the weight evenly.


(cid:127) Never stack heavier things, like suitcases,


inside the vehicle so that some of them are above the tops of the seats.


(cid:127) Do not leave an unsecured child restraint


in your vehicle.


(cid:127) When you carry something inside the vehicle, secure it whenever you can.


(cid:127) Do not leave a seat folded down unless


you need to.


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Towing a Trailer


{CAUTION:


If you do not use the correct equipment and drive properly, you can lose control when you pull a trailer. For example, if the trailer is too heavy, the brakes may not work well — or even at all. You and your passengers could be seriously injured. You may also damage your vehicle; the resulting repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Pull a trailer only if you have followed all the steps in this section. Ask your dealer for advice and information about towing a trailer with your vehicle.


Your vehicle can tow a trailer if it is equipped with the proper trailer towing equipment. To identify what the vehicle trailering capacity is for your vehicle, you should read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this section. But trailering is different than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, durability and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly. That’s the reason for this part. In it are many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before you pull a trailer. Load-pulling components such as the engine, transaxle, rear axle, wheel assemblies and tires are forced to work harder against the drag of the added weight. The engine is required to operate at relatively higher speeds and under greater loads, generating extra heat. What’s more, the trailer adds considerably to wind resistance, increasing the pulling requirements.


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If You Do Decide to Pull a Trailer If you do, here are some important points:


There are many different laws, including speed limit restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure your rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you’ll be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police.


(cid:127) Consider using a sway control. You can ask a hitch


dealer about sway controls.


(cid:127) Do not tow a trailer at all during the first 500 miles (805 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine, axle or other parts could be damaged. Then, during the first 500 miles (805 km) that you tow a trailer, do not drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and do not make starts at full throttle. This helps your engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the heavier loads.


(cid:127) Obey speed limit restrictions when towing a trailer.


Do not drive faster than the maximum posted speed for trailers, or no more than 55 mph (90 km/h), to save wear on your vehicle’s parts.


Three important considerations have to do with weight:


the weight of the trailer, the weight of the trailer tongue and the total weight on your vehicle’s tires.


Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It should never weigh more than 1,000 lbs. (454 kg). But even that can be too heavy. It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. And, it can also depend on any special equipment that you have on your vehicle. You can ask your dealer for our trailering information or advice, or you can write us at:


Saturn Customer Assistance Center 100 Saturn Parkway Mail Code 371-999-S24
Spring Hill, TN 37174-1500


In Canada, write to:


Saturn Customer Communication Centre General Motors of Canada, Ltd., 1908 Colonel Sam Drive Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7


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(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total or gross weight of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. And if you tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load to the GVW because your vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-34 for more information about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.


If you are using a weight-carrying hitch or a weight-distributing hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 10 to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B). After you have loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they are not, you may be able to get them right simply by moving some items around in the trailer. Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the upper limit for cold tires. You will find these numbers on the Tire-Loading Information label, See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-34. Then be sure you do not go over the GVW limit for your vehicle, including the weight of the trailer tongue.


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Hitches It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a few reasons why you will need the right hitch. Here are some rules to follow:


The rear bumper on your vehicle is not intended for hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or other bumper-type hitches to it. Use only a frame-mounted hitch that does not attach to the bumper.


(cid:127) Will you have to make any holes in the body of your vehicle when you install a trailer hitch? If you do, then be sure to seal the holes later when you remove the hitch. If you don’t seal them, deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from your exhaust can get into your vehicle. See Engine Exhaust on page 2-31. Dirt and water can, too.


Safety Chains You should always attach chains between your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer so that the tongue will not drop to the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety chains and do not attach them to the bumper. Always leave just enough slack so you can turn with your rig. And, never allow safety chains to drag on the ground. Trailer Brakes Because your vehicle has anti-lock brakes, do not try to tap into your vehicle’s hydraulic brake system. If you do, both brake systems will not work well, or at all. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install, adjust and maintain them properly.


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(cid:127) Driving with a Trailer Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out for the open road, you will want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as responsive as your vehicle is by itself. Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform (and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector, lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your electrical connection at the same time. During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working. Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns.


Passing You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane. Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you. Making Turns Notice: Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering.


When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.


4-44


Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer When you tow a trailer, your vehicle may need a different turn signal flasher and/or extra wiring. Check with your dealer. The arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other drivers you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop. When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working. Driving on Grades Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you do not shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce your speed to around 45 mph (70 km/h) to reduce the possibility of the engine and the transaxle overheating.


Parking on Hills


{CAUTION:


You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged.


But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s how to do it: 1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into


PARK (P). When parking uphill, turn your wheels away from the curb. When parking downhill, turn your wheels into the curb.


2. Have someone place chocks behind the trailer


wheels.


3. When the chocks are in place, release the regular


brakes until the chocks absorb the load.


4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your


parking brake and shift into PARK (P).


5. Release the regular brakes.


4-45


When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down


while you:


start your engine, shift into a gear, and release the parking brake.


2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks. 4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the


chocks.


Maintenance When Trailer Towing Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more information. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transaxle fluid (do not overfill), engine oil, axle lubricant, drive belt, cooling system and brake system. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review this information before you start your trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight. Engine Cooling When Trailer Towing Your cooling system may temporarily overheat during severe operating conditions. See Engine Overheating on page 5-26.


4-46


(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) Section 5


Service and Appearance Care


Service ............................................................5-3
Doing Your Own Service Work .........................5-4
Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your


Vehicle ......................................................5-5
Fuel ................................................................5-5
Gasoline Octane ............................................5-5
Gasoline Specifications ....................................5-6
California Fuel ...............................................5-6
Additives .......................................................5-7
Fuels in Foreign Countries ...............................5-7
Filling Your Tank ............................................5-8
Filling a Portable Fuel Container .......................5-9
Checking Things Under the Hood ....................5-10
Hood Release ..............................................5-10
Engine Compartment Overview .......................5-12
Engine Oil ...................................................5-16
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter ................................5-20
Automatic Transaxle Fluid ..............................5-23
Engine Coolant .............................................5-23
Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap ..................5-26
Engine Overheating .......................................5-26
Cooling System ............................................5-29
Power Steering Fluid .....................................5-34
Windshield Washer Fluid ................................5-35
Brakes ........................................................5-36


Battery ........................................................5-39
Jump Starting ...............................................5-40
Bulb Replacement ..........................................5-46
Halogen Bulbs ..............................................5-46
Headlamps, Front Turn Signal, Sidemarker,


and Parking Lamps ....................................5-47
Fog Lamps ..................................................5-49
Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL)


(Sedan) ...................................................5-49


Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL)


(Wagon) ...................................................5-50


Taillamps, Turn Signal, Stoplamps and


Back-up Lamps (Sedan) .............................5-50


Taillamps, Turn Signal, Stoplamps and


Back-up Lamps (Wagon) ............................5-52
Replacement Bulbs .......................................5-52
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement ..............5-53
Tires ..............................................................5-54
Inflation - Tire Pressure .................................5-61
Tire Inspection and Rotation ...........................5-62
When It Is Time for New Tires .......................5-64
Buying New Tires .........................................5-64
Uniform Tire Quality Grading ..........................5-65
Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance ..................5-67
Wheel Replacement ......................................5-67


5-1


Section 5


Service and Appearance Care


Tire Chains ..................................................5-68
If a Tire Goes Flat ........................................5-69
Changing a Flat Tire .....................................5-70
Compact Spare Tire ......................................5-81
Appearance Care ............................................5-82
Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle .................5-82
Care of Safety Belts ......................................5-85
Weatherstrips ...............................................5-85
Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle ..............5-85
Sheet Metal Damage .....................................5-87
Finish Damage .............................................5-88
Underbody Maintenance ................................5-88


Chemical Paint Spotting .................................5-88
Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials ..................5-89
Vehicle Identification ......................................5-90
Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) .................5-90
Service Parts Identification Label .....................5-91
Electrical System ............................................5-91
Add-On Electrical Equipment ..........................5-91
Windshield Wiper Fuses ................................5-91
Power Windows and Other Power Options .......5-92
Fuses and Circuit Breakers ............................5-92
Capacities and Specifications ..........................5-98


5-2


Service Your Saturn retailer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you will go to your retailer for all your service needs. You will get genuine Saturn parts and Saturn-trained and supported service people. We hope you will want to keep your Saturn vehicle all Saturn. Genuine Saturn parts have one of these marks.


California Proposition 65 Warning Most motor vehicles, including this one, contain and/or emit chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. Engine exhaust, many parts and systems (including some inside the vehicle), many fluids, and some component wear by-products contain and/or emit these chemicals.


5-3


{CAUTION:


You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it.


(cid:127) Be sure you have sufficient knowledge,


experience, the proper replacement parts and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task.


(cid:127) Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts and


other fasteners. “English” and “metric” fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.


Doing Your Own Service Work If you want to do some of your own service work, you will want to use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 7-10. Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-71. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See Maintenance Record on page 6-15.


5-4


Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airflow around it. This may cause wind noise and affect windshield washer performance. Check with your retailer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle. Fuel Use of the recommended fuel is an important part of the proper maintenance of your vehicle.


Gasoline Octane Use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane of 87
or higher. If the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. Otherwise, you might damage your engine. A little pinging noise when you accelerate or drive uphill is considered normal. This does not indicate a problem exists or that a higher-octane fuel is necessary. If you are using 87 octane or higher-octane fuel and hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service.


5-5


Gasoline Specifications It is recommended that gasoline meet specifications which were developed by automobile manufacturers around the world and contained in the World-Wide Fuel Charter which is available from the Alliance of Automobile Manufacturers at www.autoalliance.org/fuel_charter.htm. Gasoline meeting these specifications could provide improved driveability and emission control system performance compared to other gasoline.


In Canada, look for the “Auto Makers’ Choice” label on the pump.


California Fuel If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emission Standards (see the underhood emission control label), it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on (see Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-34 ) and your vehicle may fail a smog-check test. If this occurs, return to your authorized Saturn retailer for diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs may not be covered by your warranty.


Canada Only


5-6


Additives To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that will help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing your emission control system to work properly. You should not have to add anything to your fuel. However, some gasolines contain only the minimum amount of additive required to meet U.S. Environmental Protection Agency regulations. General Motors recommends that you buy gasolines that are advertised to help keep fuel injectors and intake valves clean. If your vehicle experiences problems due to dirty injectors or valves, try a different brand of gasoline. Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in your area to contribute to clean air. General Motors recommends that you use these gasolines, particularly if they comply with the specifications described earlier. Notice: Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage the plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under your warranty.


Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT. General Motors does not recommend the use of such gasolines. Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on. If this occurs, return to your authorized Saturn retailer for service.


Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel would not be covered by your warranty. To check the fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you will be driving.


5-7


Filling Your Tank


{CAUTION:


Fuel vapor burns violently and a fuel fire can cause bad injuries. To help avoid injuries to you and others, read and follow all the instructions on the pump island. Turn off your engine when you are refueling. Do not smoke if you are near fuel or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, flames and smoking materials away from fuel. Do not leave the fuel pump unattended when refueling your vehicle — this is against the law in some places. Keep children away from the fuel pump; never let children pump fuel.


5-8


The fuel filler cap is located behind a hinged door on the passenger’s side of your vehicle. It is tethered to the door to prevent loss while refueling. Make sure that water, snow, and dirt are kept away from the filler cap and filler pipe nozzle.


To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly to the left (counterclockwise). It will require about 1/2 of a turn to remove the cap. The fuel cap has a spring in it; if you let go of the cap too soon, it will spring back to the right (clockwise).


{CAUTION:


If you get fuel on yourself and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly.


CAUTION:


(Continued)


CAUTION:


(Continued)


This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any “hiss” noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.


Be careful not to spill fuel. Clean fuel from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle on page 5-85. When you put the fuel cap back on, turn it to the right (clockwise) about 1/4 of a turn until you hear three clicks. Make sure you fully install the cap. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere and may cause the malfunction indicator lamp to come on. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-34. If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get the Notice: right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage your fuel tank and emissions system. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-34.


Filling a Portable Fuel Container


{CAUTION:


Never fill a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others:


(cid:127) Dispense gasoline only into approved


containers.


(cid:127) Do not fill a container while it is inside a


vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed or on any surface other than the ground. (cid:127) Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the


inside of the fill opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the filling is complete.


(cid:127) Do not smoke while pumping gasoline.


5-9


Checking Things Under the Hood


Hood Release To open the hood, do the following:


1. Pull the handle located


inside the vehicle.


{CAUTION:


An electric fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.


{CAUTION:


Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.


5-10


3. Lift the hood, release the hood prop from its retainer and put the hood prop into the slot in the hood.


2. Then go to the front of the vehicle and lift up on the


secondary hood release lever.


Before closing the hood, be sure all the filler caps are on properly. Then lift the hood to relieve pressure on the hood prop. Remove the hood prop from the slot in the hood and return the prop to its retainer. Then just let the hood down and close it firmly.


5-11


Engine Compartment Overview When you open the hood on the 2.2L L4 (L61) engine, you’ll see the following:


5-12


A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air


Cleaner/Filter on page 5-20 for more information.


F. Battery. See Battery on page 5-39 for more


information.


B. Engine Oil Dipstick. See Engine Oil on page 5-16 for


more information.


C. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See Engine Oil on page 5-16 for


more information.


D. Power Steering Fluid. See Power Steering Fluid on


page 5-34 for more information.


E. Brake Master Cylinder Fluid. See Brakes on


page 5-36 for more information.


G. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank. See Engine Coolant


on page 5-23 for more information.


H. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See Windshield


Washer Fluid on page 5-35 for more information. Before closing the hood, be sure all filler caps are on properly.


5-13


When you open the hood on the 3.0L V6 (L81) engine, you’ll see the following:


5-14


A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air


Cleaner/Filter on page 5-20 for more information.


F. Battery. See Battery on page 5-39 for more


information.


B. Engine Oil Dipstick. See Engine Oil on page 5-16 for


more information.


C. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See Engine Oil on page 5-16 for


more information.


D. Brake Master Cylinder Fluid. See Brakes on


page 5-36 for more information.


E. Power Steering Fluid. See Power Steering Fluid on


page 5-34 for more information.


G. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank. See Engine Coolant


on page 5-23 for more information.


H. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See Windshield


Washer Fluid on page 5-35 for more information. Before closing the hood, be sure all filler caps are on properly.


5-15


Engine Oil Checking Engine Oil It is a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground. The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine oil dipstick Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you don’t, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.


When to Add Engine Oil If the oil is at or below the MIN mark, then you will need to add at least one quart of oil. But you must use the right kind. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Specifications on page 5-98. Notice: Do not add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the upper mark that shows the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged.


2.2L L4 (L61) Dipstick Shown, 3.0L V6 (L81) Similar


2.2L L4 (L61) Engine


3.0L V6 (L81) Engine


5-16


See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine oil fill cap. Be sure to add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you are through. What Kind of Engine Oil to Use Look for two things: (cid:127) GM6094M


Your vehicle’s engine requires oil meeting GM Standard GM6094M. You should look for and use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM6094M.


5-17


(cid:127) SAE 5W-30


As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. However, if it is going to be 0°F (–18°C) or above and SAE 5W-30 is not available, you may use SAE 10W-30. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50.


Oils meeting these requirements should also have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API).


Notice: Use only engine oil identified as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and showing the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty. If you are in an area of extreme cold, where the temperature falls below −20°F (−29°C), it is recommended that you use either an SAE 5W-30
synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both will provide easier cold starting and better protection for your engine at extremely low temperatures. Engine Oil Additives Do not add anything to your oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol that meet GM Standard GM6094M are all you will need for good performance and engine protection.


You should look for this information on the oil container, and use only those oils that are identified as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and have the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container.


5-18


When to Change Engine Oil (GM Oil Life System) Your vehicle has a computer system that lets you know when to change the engine oil and filter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change will be indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, you must reset the system every time the oil is changed. When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it will indicate that an oil change is necessary. A Change Engine Oil light will come on. Change your oil as soon as possible within the next two times you stop for fuel. It is possible that, if you are driving under the best conditions, the oil life system may not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, your engine oil and filter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. Your retailer has trained service people who will perform this work using genuine Saturn parts and reset the system. It is also important to check your oil regularly and keep it at the proper level. If the system is ever reset accidentally, you must change your oil at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since your last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed.


How to Reset the Oil Life System The GM Oil Life System calculates when to change your engine oil and filter based on vehicle use. Anytime your oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where you change your oil prior to a Change Engine Oil light being turned on, reset the system. After changing the engine oil, reset the system by performing the following steps: 1. Turn the ignition key to RUN with the engine off. 2. Fully press and release the accelerator pedal three


times within five seconds. If the Change Engine Oil light is flashing, the system is reset. The light will flash for up to 30 seconds or until the ignition is turned off.


If the light comes on again and stays on for 30 seconds at the next ignition cycle, it did not reset. You will need to reset the system again.


5-19


What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the filter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help.


Engine Air Cleaner/Filter When to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Inspect the air cleaner/filter every 15,000 miles (25 000
km) and replace every 30,000 miles (50 000 km). If you are driving in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect the filter at each engine oil change. How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter To inspect the air cleaner/filter, remove the filter from the vehicle and lightly shake filter to release loose dust and dirt. If the filter remains “caked” with dirt, a new filter is required. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for location of air cleaner/filter.


5-20


{CAUTION:


Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air, it helps to stop flame if the engine backfires. If it is not there and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.


If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire can


Notice: cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you are driving. If you want to replace the engine air cleaner/filter yourself, use the following steps.


1. Remove the hose clamp that is on the inlet duct on


the cover and pull off the hose.


2. Release the two clips and turn the cover upward to


unhook the hinges.


5-21


3. Pull the air cleaner/filter box cover out and remove


the air filter element from the air filter box. If the element is dirty, you should replace it. If the element is only dusty, it may be cleaned by blowing compressed air through it from the clean side. Make sure you are away from your engine compartment when cleaning the air filter with compressed air.


4. Wipe all dust from inside the housing and inspect


the air cleaner and air inlet tube for cracks, cuts and deterioration. The air inlet tube must be replaced if it is damaged.


5. Install the air filter element, hose, hose clamp and


cover.


6. Latch the two clips.


5-22


Automatic Transaxle Fluid It is not necessary to check the transaxle fluid level. A transaxle fluid leak is the only reason for fluid loss. If a leak occurs, take the vehicle to retailer’s service department and have it repaired as soon as possible. You may also have your fluid level checked by your retailer or service center when you have your oil changed. Change both the fluid and filter every 50,000 miles (83 000 km) if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions:


In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or higher. In hilly or mountainous terrain.


(cid:127) When doing frequent trailer towing. (cid:127) Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery


service.


If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, the fluid and filter do not require changing. Notice: Use of automatic transaxle fluid labeled other than DEXRON®-III may damage your vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEXRON®-III labeled automatic transaxle fluid.


Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for five years or 100,000 miles (166 000 km), whichever occurs first, if you add only DEX-COOL® extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating on page 5-26. A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant will: (cid:127) Give freezing protection down to −34°F (−37°C). (cid:127) Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C). (cid:127) Protect against rust and corrosion. (cid:127) Help keep the proper engine temperature.


Let the warning lights and gages work as they should.


Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL®(silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle.


5-23


(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) If you use an improper coolant mixture,


Notice: your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your retailer check your cooling system. Notice: have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful.


If you use the proper coolant, you do not


What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL® coolant which won’t damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you don’t need to add anything else.


{CAUTION:


Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.


5-24


Checking Coolant


The surge tank is located on the driver”s side of the engine compartment. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12
for more information on location.


{CAUTION:


Turning the surge tank pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. Never turn the surge tank pressure cap — even a little — when the engine and radiator are hot.


The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the Cold line (surge tank seam). When your engine is warm, the level should be at the Cold line or a little higher. If the low coolant light comes on and stays on, it means you’re low on engine coolant. See Low Coolant Warning Light on page 3-33.


5-25


Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture at the surge tank, but only when the engine is cool. See Engine Overheating on page 5-26
for instructions on “How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Surge Tank.”


{CAUTION:


You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.


When replacing the pressure cap, make sure it is hand-tight.


Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap If the pressure cap is not tightly installed, Notice: coolant loss and possible engine damage may occur. Be sure the cap is properly and tightly secured. If you replace your coolant surge tank pressure cap, a Saturn cap is required.


Engine Overheating You will find a coolant temperature gage and a coolant temperature warning light on your vehicle’s instrument panel. See Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 3-33 and Engine Coolant Temperature Warning Light on page 3-32. You will also find a low coolant level warning light on your vehicle’s instrument panel. See Low Coolant Warning Light on page 3-33.


5-26


If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine


{CAUTION:


Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool.


If your engine catches fire because you


Notice: keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty.


5-27


If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine An overheat warning, along with a low coolant light, can indicate a serious problem. See Low Coolant Warning Light on page 3-33. If you get an engine overheat warning with no low coolant light, but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: (cid:127) Climb a long hill on a hot day. (cid:127) Stop after high-speed driving. Idle for long periods in traffic. Tow a trailer.


If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. If you have an air conditioner and it’s on, turn it off. 2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan


speed and open the window as necessary.


3. Try to minimize engine load. If you’re in a traffic


jam, shift to NEUTRAL (N); otherwise, shift to the highest gear while driving.


If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about ten minutes. If the warning doesn’t come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues and you have not stopped, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there is still no sign of steam, you can idle the engine for three minutes while you’re parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.


5-28


(cid:127) (cid:127) Cooling System When you decide it is safe to lift the hood, here is what you will see:


{CAUTION:


An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.


If the coolant inside the coolant surge tank is boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface.


A. Coolant Surge Tank with Pressure Cap B. Electric Engine Fan


5-29


{CAUTION:


Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.


If there seems to be no leak, with the engine on, check to see if the electric engine cooling fans are running. If the engine is overheating, both fans should be running. If they are not, your vehicle needs service. Turn off the engine. Notice: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant is not covered by your warranty. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL®(silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle.


The coolant level should be at the COLD line (surge tank seam). If it is not, you may have a leak at the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system.


5-30


CAUTION:


(Continued)


Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and coolant surge tank pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.


How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Surge Tank Notice: This vehicle has a specific coolant fill procedure. Failure to follow this procedure could cause your engine to overheat and be severely damaged. If you have not found a problem yet, check to see if coolant is visible in the surge tank. If coolant is visible but the coolant level isn’t at the FULL COLD mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant at the coolant surge tank, but be sure the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is cool before you do it. See Engine Coolant on page 5-23 for more information.


{CAUTION:


Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the coolant surge tank pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed.


CAUTION:


(Continued)


5-31


{CAUTION:


{CAUTION:


You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.


Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.


In cold weather, water can freeze and crack


Notice: the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture.


5-32


1. You can remove the coolant surge tank pressure


cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise (left) about one-quarter of a turn. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. This will allow any pressure still left to be vented out the discharge hose.


2. Then keep turning the pressure cap slowly, and


remove it.


3. Fill the coolant surge tank with the proper


DEX-COOL® coolant mixture, to the COLD line.


4. With the coolant surge tank pressure cap off, start


the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fans. By this time, the coolant level inside the coolant surge tank may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture to the coolant surge tank until the level reaches the COLD line.


5. Then replace the pressure cap. Be sure the


pressure cap is hand-tight.


5-33


Check the level in the surge tank when the cooling system has cooled down. If the coolant is not at the proper level, repeat Steps 1 through 3 and reinstall the pressure cap. If the coolant isn’t at the proper level when the system cools down again, see your retailer.


Power Steering Fluid


The power steering fluid reservoir is located toward the front of the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.


5-34


When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for reservoir location. How to Check Power Steering Fluid Turn the key off, let the engine compartment cool down, wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean, then unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. Then remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on the dipstick. The level should be at the “C” mark. If necessary, add only enough fluid to bring the level up to the mark. What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.


Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield or rear window (wagon models) washer fluid be sure to read the instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing. Adding Windshield Washer Fluid


Open the cap with the washer fluid symbol printed on it and add washer fluid until the tank is full.


Notice: (cid:127) When using concentrated washer fluid, follow


the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.


(cid:127) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid.


Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer fluid. Fill your washer fluid tank only three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.


(cid:127) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.


5-35


(cid:127) So, it is not a good idea to “top off” your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid will not correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you will have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add (or remove) brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.


{CAUTION:


If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.


When your brake fluid falls to a low level, your brake warning light will come on. See Brake System Warning Light on page 3-30.


Brakes Brake Fluid


Your brake master cylinder reservoir is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the reservoir.


There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes will not work well, or will not work at all.


5-36


What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.


{CAUTION:


With the wrong kind of fluid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.


Notice: (cid:127) Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Appearance Care on page 5-82.


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(cid:127) Brake Wear Your vehicle has four-wheel disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving (except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly).


{CAUTION:


The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.


Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair.


Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to Saturn torque specifications. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. Brake Pedal Travel See your retailer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you make a moderate brake stop, your brakes adjust for wear. If you rarely make a moderate or heavier stop, then your brakes might not adjust correctly. If you drive in that way, then — very carefully — make a few moderate brake stops about every 1,000 miles (1 600 km), so your brakes will adjust properly.


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Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system — for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure you get new approved Saturn replacement parts. If you do not, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance you have come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.


Battery Your new vehicle comes with a maintenance free ACDelco® battery. When it is time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco® battery. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for battery location.


Warning: Battery posts, terminals and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling.


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Vehicle Storage If you are not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.


Jump Starting If your battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to follow the steps below to do it safely.


{CAUTION:


Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 5-40 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.


Contact your Saturn retailer to learn how to prepare your vehicle for longer storage periods. Also, for your audio system, see Theft-Deterrent Feature on page 3-69.


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{CAUTION:


Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:


(cid:127) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:127) They contain gas that can explode or


(cid:127) They contain enough electricity to


ignite.


burn you.


If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.


Ignoring these steps could result in costly


Notice: damage to your vehicle that would not be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage your vehicle.


1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt


battery with a negative ground system.


If the other vehicle’s system is not a 12-volt


Notice: system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transaxle in PARK (P) or a manual transaxle in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake.


If you leave your radio or other accessories


Notice: on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and other accessories when jump starting your vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug


unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or in the accessory power outlet. Turn off the radio and all lamps that aren’t needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save your radio!


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4. Open the hoods and locate the batteries. Find the positive (+) and negative (−) terminal locations on each vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.


{CAUTION:


{CAUTION:


An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.


Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the ACDelco® battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you do not, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.


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{CAUTION:


Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.


5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or


missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged, too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts, too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks.


6. Remove the terminal cover and connect the red


positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. The positive (+) terminal on your vehicle is covered by a red protector cap which must be removed before you connect the positive (+) jumper cable to the positive (+) terminal of the dead battery.


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7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.


Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable doesn’t go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal part or to a remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.


8. Now connect the black


negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one.


9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable at


least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less.


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10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run


the engine for a while.


11. Press UNLOCK on the RKE transmitter to disarm


your security system (if equipped).


12. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery. If


it won’t start after a few tries, it probably needs service.


If the jumper cables are removed in the


Notice: wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal.


Jumper Cable Removal A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part B. Good Battery C. Dead Battery


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To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the


vehicle that had the dead battery.


2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the


vehicle with the good battery.


3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the


vehicle with the good battery.


4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other


vehicle.


5. Return the terminal cover to its original position.


Bulb Replacement For the type of bulb to use, see Replacement Bulbs on page 5-52. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your retailer.


Halogen Bulbs


{CAUTION:


Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.


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Headlamps, Front Turn Signal, Sidemarker, and Parking Lamps 1. Open the hood and secure it with the prop rod.


4. Remove fasteners from headlamp assembly.


2. Remove push-pin fasteners from grill assembly. 3. Tilt grill assembly forward and lift it up to remove it


from the body of the vehicle.


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5. Push headlamp housing lever up to disengage


headlamp housing from headlamp housing pocket.


7. Disconnect the wire connector from the bulb by lifting the lock tab and pulling it away from the plastic base.


6. Turn the bulb socket being replaced


counterclockwise one–quarter of a turn while pressing the socket in firmly. Pull the socket rearward until the bulb clears the headlamp housing, and lift it up to access the bulb.


8. Remove the bulb assembly and replace it with the


appropriate bulb.


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Fog Lamps


1. Reach up from underneath the front body panel and turn the bulb socket counterclockwise one– quarter of a turn while pressing the socket in firmly. Pull the socket rearward until the bulb clears the fog lamp housing.


2. Disconnect the wire connector from the bulb by lifting the lock tab and pulling it away from the plastic base.


3. Remove the bulb assembly and replace it with the


appropriate bulb.


Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) (Sedan) 1. Remove the center high mounted stop lamp cover


by pulling down on the cover edges. 2. Turn the bulb socket being replaced


counterclockwise one–quarter of a turn and remove the bulb.


3. Replace it with the appropriate bulb.

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