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driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as responsive as your vehicle is by itself. Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform (and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector, lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your electrical connection at the same time. During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working.


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Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns. Passing You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal longer when towing a trailer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane. Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you.


Making Turns Notice: Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering. When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance. Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer When you tow a trailer, your vehicle may need a different turn signal flasher and/or extra wiring. See your retailer if you need information. The arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other drivers you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop. When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working.


4-43


Driving on Grades Notice: Do not tow on steep continuous grades exceeding 6 miles (9.6 km). Extended, higher than normal engine and transaxle temperatures may result and damage your vehicle. Frequent stops are very important to allow the engine and transaxle to cool. Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce your speed to around 45 mph (70 km/h) to reduce the possibility of the engine and the transmission overheating. If your engine does overheat, see Engine Overheating on page 5-29.


Parking on Hills


{CAUTION:


You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged.


But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s how to do it: 1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into


PARK (P) for an automatic transaxle, or into gear for a manual transaxle. When parking uphill, turn your wheels away from the curb. When parking downhill, turn your wheels into the curb.


2. Have someone place chocks behind the trailer


wheels.


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3. When the chocks are in place, release the regular


brakes until the chocks absorb the load.


4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking brake and shift into PARK (P) for an automatic transaxle or REVERSE (R) for a manual transaxle.


5. Release the regular brakes.


When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal


down while you: (cid:127) start your engine (cid:127) shift into a gear, and (cid:127) release the parking brake.


2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks. 4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the


chocks.


Maintenance When Trailer Towing Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 for more information. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transaxle fluid (don’t overfill), engine oil, axle lubricant, drive belt, cooling system and brake system. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review this information before you start your trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight. Engine Cooling When Trailer Towing Your cooling system may temporarily overheat during severe operating conditions. See Engine Overheating on page 5-29. Changing a Tire When Trailer Towing If you get a flat tire while towing a trailer, be sure to secure the trailer and disconnect it from the vehicle before changing the tire.


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✍ NOTES


4-46


Section 5


Service and Appearance Care


Service ............................................................5-3
Accessories and Modifications ..........................5-3
California Proposition 65 Warning .....................5-3
Doing Your Own Service Work .........................5-4
Adding Equipment to the Outside


of Your Vehicle ...........................................5-4
Fuel ................................................................5-4
Gasoline Octane ............................................5-5
Gasoline Specifications ....................................5-5
California Fuel ...............................................5-5
Additives .......................................................5-6
Fuels in Foreign Countries ...............................5-6
Filling the Tank ..............................................5-7
Filling a Portable Fuel Container .......................5-9
Checking Things Under the Hood ....................5-10
Hood Release ..............................................5-10
Engine Compartment Overview .......................5-12
Engine Oil ...................................................5-15
Engine Oil Life System ..................................5-20
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter ................................5-22
Automatic Transaxle Fluid ..............................5-24
Manual Transaxle Fluid ..................................5-24
Hydraulic Clutch ...........................................5-25
Engine Coolant .............................................5-25
Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap ..................5-29
Engine Overheating .......................................5-29


Cooling System ............................................5-31
Windshield Washer Fluid ................................5-38
Brakes ........................................................5-39
Battery ........................................................5-42
Jump Starting ...............................................5-43
Headlamp Aiming ...........................................5-48
Bulb Replacement ..........................................5-48
Halogen Bulbs ..............................................5-48
Headlamps (Coupe) ......................................5-49
Headlamps (Sedan) ......................................5-50
Front Turn Signal, Parking and Daytime


Running Lamps (DRL) (Coupe) ...................5-52


Front Turn Signal, Parking and Daytime


Running Lamps (DRL) (Sedan) ....................5-53
Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) .........5-54
Taillamps, Turn Signal, Stoplamps and


Back-up Lamps .........................................5-54
Replacement Bulbs .......................................5-55
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement ..............5-56
Tires ..............................................................5-57
Tire Sidewall Labeling ...................................5-59
Tire Terminology and Definitions .....................5-62
Inflation - Tire Pressure .................................5-64
Tire Inspection and Rotation ...........................5-66
When It Is Time for New Tires .......................5-68
Buying New Tires .........................................5-68


5-1


Section 5


Service and Appearance Care


Different Size Tires and Wheels ......................5-70
Uniform Tire Quality Grading ..........................5-70
Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance ..................5-72
Wheel Replacement ......................................5-72
Tire Chains ..................................................5-74
If a Tire Goes Flat ........................................5-75
Changing a Flat Tire .....................................5-76
Removing the Spare Tire and Tools ................5-77
Removing the Flat Tire and Installing


the Spare Tire ..........................................5-82
Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools ............5-87
Compact Spare Tire ......................................5-90
Appearance Care ............................................5-90
Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle .................5-90
Fabric/Carpet ...............................................5-92
Instrument Panel, Vinyl, and Other


Plastic Surfaces ........................................5-93
Care of Safety Belts ......................................5-93
Weatherstrips ...............................................5-93
Washing Your Vehicle ...................................5-94
Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses .....................5-94


Finish Care ..................................................5-94
Windshield and Wiper Blades .........................5-95
Aluminum Wheels .........................................5-95
Tires ...........................................................5-96
Sheet Metal Damage .....................................5-96
Finish Damage .............................................5-96
Underbody Maintenance ................................5-97
Chemical Paint Spotting .................................5-97
Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials ..................5-98
Vehicle Identification ......................................5-99
Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) .................5-99
Service Parts Identification Label .....................5-99
Electrical System ............................................5-99
Add-On Electrical Equipment ..........................5-99
Windshield Wiper Fuses ...............................5-100
Power Windows and Other Power Options ......5-100
Fuses and Circuit Breakers ..........................5-100
Floor Console Fuse Block ............................5-100
Engine Compartment Fuse Block ...................5-102
Capacities and Specifications ........................5-109


5-2


Service Your Saturn retailer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you will go to your retailer for all your service needs. You will get genuine Saturn parts and Saturn-trained and supported service people. We hope you will want to keep your Saturn vehicle all Saturn. Genuine Saturn parts have one of these marks.


Accessories and Modifications When you add non-Saturn accessories to your vehicle they can affect your vehicle’s performance and safety, including such things as, airbags, braking, stability, ride and handling, emissions systems, aerodynamics, durability, and electronic systems like anti-lock brakes, traction control, and stability control. Some of these accessories may even cause malfunction or damage not covered by warranty. Saturn accessories are designed to complement and function with other systems on your vehicle. Your Saturn retailer can accessorize your vehicle using genuine Saturn accessories. When you go to your Saturn retailer and ask for Saturn accessories, you will know that Saturn-trained and supported service technicians will perform the work using genuine Saturn accessories.


California Proposition 65 Warning Most motor vehicles, including this one, contain and/or emit chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. Engine exhaust, many parts and systems (including some inside the vehicle), many fluids, and some component wear by-products contain and/or emit these chemicals.


5-3


Doing Your Own Service Work


{CAUTION:


You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it.


(cid:127) Be sure you have sufficient knowledge,


experience, the proper replacement parts, and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task.


(cid:127) Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts,


and other fasteners. English and metric fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.


If you want to do some of your own service work, you will want to use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 7-12.


5-4


Your vehicle has an airbag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see Servicing Your Airbag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-66. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See Maintenance Record on page 6-16.


Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airflow around it. This may cause wind noise and affect windshield washer performance. Check with your retailer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle. Fuel The 8th digit of your vehicle identification number (VIN) shows the code letter or number that identifies your engine. You will find the VIN at the top left of the instrument panel. See Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) on page 5-99.


Gasoline Octane If your vehicle has the 2.2L L4 engine (VIN Code F), use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 87 or higher. If the octane rating is less than 87, you may notice an audible knocking noise when you drive, commonly referred to as spark knock. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. If you are using gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service. If your vehicle has the 2.4L L4 engine (VIN Code B) or the 2.0L Supercharged engine (VIN Code P), use premium unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 91 or higher. You may also use regular unleaded gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher, but your vehicle’s acceleration may be slightly reduced, and you may notice a slight audible knocking noise, commonly referred to as spark knock. If the octane is less than 87, you may notice a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. Otherwise, you might damage your engine. If you are using gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service.


Gasoline Specifications At a minimum, gasoline should meet ASTM specification D 4814 in the United States or CAN/CGSB-3.5 in Canada. Some gasolines may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT). General Motors recommends against the use of gasolines containing MMT. See Additives on page 5-6
for additional information.


California Fuel If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emissions Standards, it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. See the underhood emission control label. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on and your vehicle may fail a smog-check test. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-36. If this occurs, return to your authorized Saturn retailer for diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs may not be covered by your warranty.


5-5


Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT. General Motors recommends against the use of such gasolines. Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on. If this occurs, return to your authorized Saturn retailer for service.


Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel would not be covered by your warranty. To check the fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you will be driving.


Additives To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that will help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing your emission control system to work properly. In most cases, you should not have to add anything to your fuel. However, some gasolines contain only the minimum amount of additive required to meet U.S. Environmental Protection Agency regulations. To help keep fuel injectors and intake valves clean, or if your vehicle experiences problems due to dirty injectors or valves, look for gasoline that is advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. Also, your retailer has additives that will help correct and prevent most deposit-related problems. Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in your area. General Motors recommends that you use these gasolines if they comply with the specifications described earlier. However, E85 (85% ethanol) and other fuels containing more than 10% ethanol must not be used in vehicles that were not designed for those fuels. Notice: Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage the plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under your warranty.


5-6


Filling the Tank


{CAUTION:


Fuel vapor burns violently and a fuel fire can cause bad injuries. To help avoid injuries to you and others, read and follow all the instructions on the pump island. Turn off your engine when you are refueling. Do not smoke if you are near fuel or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, flames, and smoking materials away from fuel. Do not leave the fuel pump unattended when refueling your vehicle — this is against the law in some places. Keep children away from the fuel pump; never let children pump fuel.


The tethered fuel cap is located behind a hinged fuel door on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly counterclockwise. The fuel cap has a spring in it; if the cap is released too soon, it will spring back to the right.


5-7


While refueling, let the fuel cap hang by the tether below the fuel fill opening.


{CAUTION:


If you spill fuel and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any hiss noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.


Be careful not to spill fuel. Do not top off or overfill the tank and wait a few seconds after you have finished pumping before removing the nozzle. Clean fuel from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-94. When replacing the fuel cap, turn it clockwise until it clicks. Make sure the cap is fully installed. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-36. In addition, the CHECK GAS CAP message will be displayed in the Message Center if the fuel cap is not properly reinstalled. See Check Gas Cap Message on page 3-46 for more information.


5-8


{CAUTION:


If a fire starts while you are refueling, do not remove the nozzle. Shut off the flow of fuel by shutting off the pump or by notifying the station attendant. Leave the area immediately.


If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get


Notice: the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage your fuel tank and emissions system. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-36.


Filling a Portable Fuel Container


{CAUTION:


Never fill a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others:


(cid:127) Dispense gasoline only into approved


containers.


(cid:127) Do not fill a container while it is inside a


vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed, or on any surface other than the ground. (cid:127) Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the


inside of the fill opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the filling is complete.


(cid:127) Do not smoke while pumping gasoline.


5-9


Checking Things Under the Hood


Hood Release To open the hood, do the following:


1. Pull the interior hood


release handle with this symbol on it. It is located to the left of the steering column below the instrument panel.


{CAUTION:


An electric fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan.


{CAUTION:


Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.


5-10


2. Push the secondary hood release lever, located under the center of the hood above the grille, to the right to disengage it.


3. Lift the hood, release the hood prop from its


retainer and put the hood prop into the slot in the hood.


Before closing the hood, be sure all the filler caps are on properly. Then lift the hood to relieve pressure on the hood prop. Remove the hood prop from the slot in the hood and return the prop to its retainer. Then just let the hood down and close it firmly.


5-11


Engine Compartment Overview When you open the hood on the 2.2L L4 engine (2.4L L4 engine similar), here is what you will see:


5-12


A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air


Cleaner/Filter on page 5-22.


E. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. See Engine


Compartment Fuse Block on page 5-102.


B. Engine Oil Dipstick (Out of View). See “Checking


Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 5-15.


C. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”


under Engine Oil on page 5-15.


F. Remote Positive (+) Terminal. See Jump Starting on


page 5-43.


G. Engine Coolant Surge Tank. See Engine Coolant on


page 5-25.


D. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid”


under Brakes on page 5-39 and Hydraulic Clutch on page 5-25.


H. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding


Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-38.


5-13


When you open the hood on the 2.0L L4 Supercharged engine, here is what you will see:


5-14


A. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”


under Engine Oil on page 5-15.


B. Electric Engine Cooling Fan. See Cooling System on


page 5-31.


C. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”


under Engine Oil on page 5-15.


D. Intercooler System Pressure Cap. See Engine


Coolant on page 5-25.


E. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid”


under Brakes on page 5-39 and Hydraulic Clutch on page 5-25.


F. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air


Cleaner/Filter on page 5-22.


G. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. See Engine


Compartment Fuse Block on page 5-102.


H. Remote Positive (+) Terminal. See Jump Starting on


page 5-43.


I. Engine Coolant Surge Tank. See Coolant Surge


Tank Pressure Cap on page 5-29.


J. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding


Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-38.


Engine Oil Checking Engine Oil It is a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground. The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine oil dipstick. 1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you do not do this, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.


2. Pull out the dipstick, clean it with a paper towel or


cloth and then push it back in all the way.


3. Pull out the dipstick again, keeping the tip down,


and check the level.


5-15


When to Add Engine Oil


If the oil is below the MIN (minimum) mark, you will need to add at least one quart/liter of oil. But you must use the right kind. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Specifications on page 5-109. Notice: Do not add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the upper mark that shows the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged.


2.2L L4 Engine and


2.4L L4 Engine


2.0L L4 Supercharged


Engine


See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine oil fill cap. Be sure to add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you are through.


5-16


What Kind of Engine Oil to Use For Vehicles With the 2.2L or 2.4L L4
Engine


(cid:127) SAE 5W-30


As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50.


Oils meeting these requirements should also have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API).


Look for two things: (cid:127) GM6094M


Your vehicle’s engine requires oil meeting GM Standard GM6094M. You should look for and use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM6094M.


You should look for this information on the oil container, and use only those oils that are identified as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and have the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container.


5-17


For Vehicles with the 2.0L L4
Supercharged Engine Only


Notice: Use only engine oil identified as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and showing the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty. GM Goodwrench® oil meets all the requirements for your vehicle. If you are in an area of extreme cold, where the temperature falls below −20°F (−29°C), it is recommended that you use either an SAE 5W-30
synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both will provide easier cold starting and better protection for your engine at extremely low temperatures.


Look for two things: (cid:127) GM4718M


Your vehicle’s engine requires a special oil meeting GM Standard GM4718M, such as Mobil 1® or equivalent. Oils meeting this standard may be identified as synthetic. However, not all synthetic oils will meet this GM standard. You should look for and use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM4718M.


5-18


Your vehicle’s engine is filled at the factory with a synthetic oil which meets all requirements for your vehicle. Substitute Engine Oil: When adding oil to maintain engine oil level, oil meeting GM Standard GM4718M may not be available. You can add substitute oil designated SAE 5W-30 with the starburst symbol at all temperatures. Substitute oil not meeting GM Standard GM4718M should not be used for an oil change. Engine Oil Additives Do not add anything to your oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol that meet GM standards are all you will need for good performance and engine protection.


If you use oils that do not have the


Notice: GM4718M Standard designation, you can cause engine damage not covered by your warranty. (cid:127) SAE 5W-30


As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50.


Oils meeting these requirements should also have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API).


You should look for this on the oil container, and use only those oils that are identified as meeting GM Standard GM4718M and have the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container.


5-19


Engine Oil Life System When to Change Engine Oil Your vehicle has a computer system that lets you know when to change the engine oil and filter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change will be indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, you must reset the system every time the oil is changed. When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it will indicate that an oil change is necessary. A CHG OIL message will come on. See Change Engine Oil Message on page 3-45 for more information on this message. Change your oil as soon as possible within the next 600 miles (1 000 km). It is possible that, if you are driving under the best conditions, the oil life system may not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, your engine oil and filter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset.


Your retailer has trained service people who will perform this work using genuine Saturn parts and reset the system. It is also important to check your oil regularly and keep it at the proper level. If the system is ever reset accidentally, you must change your oil at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since your last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed. How to Reset the Engine Oil Life System The Engine Oil Life System calculates when to change your engine oil and filter based on vehicle use. Anytime your oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where you change your oil prior to the CHG OIL message being turned on, reset the system.


5-20


After changing the engine oil, reset the system by doing the following: 1. Press and release the trip/reset button until the


OIL LIFE message is displayed.


2. Then press and hold the trip/reset button until a


chime sounds five times, and RESET is displayed in the message center. When the system is reset, the odometer will again be displayed in the message center.


3. Turn the key to LOCK. If the CHG OIL message comes back on when you start your vehicle, the engine oil life system has not reset. Repeat the procedure. Your vehicle has a unique oil filter element. When installing the filler cap do not exceed 18 lb-ft (25 Y). Inspect the condition of the O-ring and replace if damaged. See your Saturn retailer for additional information.


What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the filter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your retailer, a service station or a local recycling center for help.


5-21


Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Replacement


2.2L L4 Engine shown, 2.4L L4 Engine similar


2.0L L4 Supercharged Engine


See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine air cleaner/filter.


5-22


When to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Inspect the air cleaner/filter at the Maintenance II intervals and replace it at the first oil change after each 50,000 mile (83 000 km) interval. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 for more information. If you are driving in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect the filter at each engine oil change. How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter To inspect the air cleaner/filter remove the filter from the vehicle and lightly shake the filter to release loose dust and dirt. If the filter remains caked with dirt, a new filter is required.


To inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/filter, do the following: 1. Loosen the hose clamp that is on the inlet duct on


the cover and pull off the hose.


2. For vehicles equipped with the 2.2L L4 or 2.4L L4


engine, release the two clips and turn the cover upward to unhook the hinges. For vehicles equipped with the 2.0L L4 supercharged engine, remove the three screws on the cover.


3. Pull the air cleaner/filter box cover out and remove


the air filter element from the air filter box. If the element is dirty, you should replace it. If the element is only dusty, it may be cleaned by blowing compressed air through it from the clean side. Make sure you are away from your engine compartment when cleaning the air filter with compressed air.


4. Wipe all dust from inside the housing and inspect


the air cleaner and air inlet tube for cracks, cuts and deterioration. The air inlet tube must be replaced if it is damaged.


5-23


5. Install the air filter element, hose, hose clamp and


cover.


6. For vehicles equipped with the 2.2L L4 or 2.4L L4
engine, latch the two clips. For vehicles equipped with the 2.0L L4 supercharged engine, reinstall the three screws.


{CAUTION:


Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps to stop flames if the engine backfires. If it is not there and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.


If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire can


Notice: cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you are driving.


Automatic Transaxle Fluid It is not necessary to check the transaxle fluid level. A transaxle fluid leak is the only reason for fluid loss. If a leak occurs, take the vehicle to your retailer’s service department and have it repaired as soon as possible. Change the fluid and filter at the intervals listed in Additional Required Services on page 6-6, and be sure to use the transaxle fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13. Notice: Use of the incorrect automatic transaxle fluid may damage your vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use the automatic transaxle fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13.


Manual Transaxle Fluid It is not necessary to check the transaxle fluid level. A transaxle fluid leak is the only reason for fluid loss. If a leak occurs, take the vehicle to your retailer’s service department and have it repaired as soon as possible. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13
for the proper fluid to use.


5-24


Hydraulic Clutch The hydraulic clutch linkage in your vehicle is self-adjusting. This system does not have its own reservoir. It receives fluid from the brake master cylinder reservoir. See Brakes on page 5-39 for more information.


Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for five years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if you add only DEX-COOL® extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating on page 5-29.


A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant will: (cid:127) Give freezing protection down to −34°F (−37°C). (cid:127) Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C). (cid:127) Protect against rust and corrosion. (cid:127) Help keep the proper engine temperature. (cid:127) Let the warning lights and gages work as


they should.


Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at the first maintenance service after each 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle.


5-25


If you use an improper coolant mixture,


Notice: your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core, and other parts. If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your retailer check your cooling system. Notice: in your vehicle’s cooling system, you could damage your vehicle. Use only the proper mixture of the engine coolant listed in this manual for the cooling system. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13 for more information.


If you use extra inhibitors and/or additives


What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL® coolant which will not damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you do not need to add anything else.


{CAUTION:


Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.


5-26


Checking Coolant


The surge tank is located on the driver’s side of the engine compartment. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.


{CAUTION:


Turning the surge tank pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. Never turn the surge tank pressure cap — even a little — when the engine and radiator are hot.


The vehicle must be parked on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be near the cold fill line. When your engine is warm, the level should be at the cold fill line or a little higher. If the COOLANT warning message comes on and stays on, it means you are low on engine coolant.


5-27


Checking Intercooler System Coolant (2.0L L4 Engine Only)


Park your vehicle on a level surface and turn off the engine. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be just visible within the horizontal tube section of the fill neck. When your engine is warm, the coolant level could be as high as the FULL HOT line, or a little higher. The FULL HOT line has an arrow pointing down at it.


5-28


Notice: This vehicle has a specific coolant fill procedure. Failure to follow this procedure could cause your engine to overheat and be severely damaged. Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture at the surge tank and/or intercooler fill neck, but only when the engine is cool. See Cooling System on page 5-31 for instructions on how to add coolant to the coolant surge tank and/or intercooler fill neck.


{CAUTION:


You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.


When replacing a pressure cap, make sure it is hand-tight and fully seated.


Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap If the pressure cap is not tightly installed, Notice: coolant loss and possible engine damage may occur. Be sure the cap is properly and tightly secured. If you replace your coolant surge tank pressure cap, a Saturn cap is required.


Engine Overheating You will find a coolant temperature gage and a low coolant level warning message on your vehicle’s instrument panel. See Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 3-36 for more information. You also have a check gage message and a transaxle fluid hot message. See Check Gage Message on page 3-45 and Transaxle Fluid Hot Message on page 3-45. Notice: Driving with either the CHK GAGE message or the COOLANT message displayed in the message center and the Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on your instrument panel in the red zone could cause your vehicle to overheat. See Engine Overheating on page 5-29. Your vehicle could be damaged and the damages might not be covered by your warranty.


If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine


{CAUTION:


Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool.


If your engine catches fire because you


Notice: keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty.


5-29


If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning does not come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues and you have not stopped, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there is still no sign of steam, you can idle the engine for three minutes while you are parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.


If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine If you get an engine overheat warning with no warning messages, but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: (cid:127) Climb a long hill on a hot day. (cid:127) Stop after high-speed driving. (cid:127) Idle for long periods in traffic. (cid:127) Tow a trailer. If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. If you have an air conditioner and it is on, turn it off. 2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan


speed and open the windows as necessary.


3. Try to minimize engine load. If you are in a traffic jam, shift to NEUTRAL (N); otherwise, shift to the highest gear possible while driving.


5-30


Cooling System When you decide it is safe to lift the hood, here is what you will see:


{CAUTION:


An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.


If the coolant inside the coolant surge tank is boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface.


2.2L L4 Engine shown, 2.4L L4 and


2.0L L4 Supercharged Engines similar


A. Electric Engine Cooling Fan B. Coolant Surge Tank with Pressure Cap


5-31


The coolant level should be at the cold fill line. If it is not, you may have a leak at the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump, or somewhere else in the cooling system.


{CAUTION:


Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.


If there seems to be no leak, with the engine on, check to see if the electric engine cooling fan is running. If the engine is overheating, the fan should be running. If it is not, your vehicle needs service. Turn off the engine. Notice: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant is not covered by your warranty. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle.


5-32


{CAUTION:


Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.


How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Surge Tank If you have not found a problem yet, check to see if coolant is visible in the surge tank. If coolant is visible but the coolant level is not at the cold fill line, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant at the coolant surge tank, but be sure the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is cool before you do it. See Engine Coolant on page 5-25 for more information.


{CAUTION:


Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the coolant surge tank pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and coolant surge tank pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.


5-33


In cold weather, water can freeze and crack


Notice: the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture.


{CAUTION:


You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.


5-34


1. You can remove the coolant surge tank pressure cap when the cooling system, including the upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise about one-quarter of a turn. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. This will allow any pressure still left to be vented out the discharge hose.


2. Then keep turning the pressure cap slowly, and


remove it.


3. Fill the coolant surge tank with the proper


DEX-COOL® coolant mixture, to the cold fill line.


4. With the coolant surge tank pressure cap off, start


the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fan.


By this time, the coolant level inside the coolant surge tank may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture to the coolant surge tank until the level reaches the cold fill line.


5. Then replace the pressure cap. Be sure the pressure cap is hand-tight and fully seated.


Check the level in the surge tank when the cooling system has cooled down. If the coolant is not at the proper level, repeat Steps 1 through 3 and reinstall the pressure cap. If the coolant is not at the proper level when the system cools down again, see your retailer.


5-35


How to Add Coolant to the Intercooler System Fill Neck (2.0L L4 Supercharged Engine Only) If you have not found a problem yet, turn the engine off and allow it to cool down, then check to see if coolant is visible within the horizontal tube section of the fill neck. If coolant is not visible, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant to the fill neck. Be sure the Intercooler System, including the Intercooler System pressure cap, is cool before doing so. See Engine Coolant on page 5-25 for more information.


{CAUTION:


Turning the Intercooler System pressure cap when the engine and intercooler are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. Never turn the Intercooler System pressure cap, even a little, when the engine and intercooler are hot.


{CAUTION:


Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.


In cold weather, water can freeze and crack


Notice: the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture.


5-36


{CAUTION:


You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.


1. You can remove the Intercooler System pressure


cap when the Intercooler System, including the upper intercooler hoses, are no longer hot.


Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise about one-quarter of a turn. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. This will allow any pressure still left to be vented.


2. Then keep turning the pressure cap slowly, and


remove it.


3. Add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture to the fill neck, until there is coolant visible in the horizontal tube section of the fill neck.


4. With the Intercooler System pressure cap off, start


the engine and let it run for a couple of minutes. Watch out for the engine cooling fan. Turn the engine off. By this time, the coolant level inside the fill neck may be lower. If the level drops to where coolant is no longer visible in the horizontal tube section of the fill neck, with the engine off add more of the DEX-COOL® coolant mixture to the fill neck until the level is again visible in the horizontal tube section.


5. Then replace the pressure cap. Be sure the pressure cap is hand-tight and fully seated.


If the coolant is not at the proper level when the system cools down again, see your retailer.


5-37


Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing. Adding Windshield Washer Fluid


Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer fluid until the tank is full. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for reservoir location.


Notice: (cid:127) When using concentrated washer fluid,


follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.


(cid:127) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer


fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer fluid.


(cid:127) Fill your washer fluid tank only three-quarters full


when it is very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.


(cid:127) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.


5-38


Brakes Brake Fluid


The hydraulic clutch and brake master cylinder use the same reservoir. The reservoir is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12
for the location of the reservoir.


There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system or hydraulic clutch system if you have a manual transaxle. If it is, you should have both systems checked and the necessary repairs made, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes and/or clutch will not work well, or will not work at all.


So, it is not a good idea to top off your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid will not correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you will have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add or remove brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake and/or clutch hydraulic system.


{CAUTION:


If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake and/or clutch hydraulic system.


When your brake fluid falls to a low level, your brake warning light will come on. See Brake System Warning Light on page 3-34.


5-39


Checking Brake Fluid You can check the brake fluid level without removing the reservoir cap by just looking at the brake fluid reservoir. The fluid level should be at or below the MAX fill mark. After work has been done on the brake hydraulic system, make sure the level does not exceed the MAX fill mark on the reservoir. What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.


{CAUTION:


With the wrong kind of fluid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.


Notice: (cid:127) Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. (cid:127) If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted


surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-94.


5-40


Brake Wear Your vehicle has front disc brakes and rear drum brakes or rear disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving, except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly.


{CAUTION:


The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.


Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair. Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes.


Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to Saturn specifications. The rear drum brakes do not have wear indicators, but if you ever hear a rear brake rubbing noise, have the rear brake linings inspected immediately. Also, the rear brake drums should be removed and inspected each time the tires are removed for rotation or changing. When you have the front brake pads replaced, have the rear brakes inspected, too. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. Brake Pedal Travel See your retailer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you make a moderate brake stop, your brakes adjust for wear. If you rarely make a moderate or heavier stop, then your brakes might not adjust correctly. If you drive in that way, then — very carefully — make a few moderate brake stops about every 1,000 miles (1 600 km), so your brakes will adjust properly.


5-41


Warning: Battery posts, terminals, and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling. Vehicle Storage If you are not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.


{CAUTION:


Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 5-43 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.


Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system — for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure you get new approved Saturn replacement parts. If you do not, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance you have come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.


Battery Your vehicle has a maintenance free battery. When it is time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco® replacement battery. Your vehicle’s battery is located in the trunk next to the compact spare tire. To access the battery, use the trunk’s floor carpet latch to lift the cover up.


5-42


Jump Starting If your vehicle’s battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely.


{CAUTION:


Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:


(cid:127) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:127) They contain gas that can explode or


(cid:127) They contain enough electricity to


ignite.


burn you.


If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.


Ignoring these steps could result in costly


Notice: damage to your vehicle that would not be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage your vehicle.


1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt


battery with a negative ground system.


If the other vehicle’s system is not a 12-volt


Notice: system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle.


2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transaxle in PARK (P) or a manual transaxle in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake.


5-43


If you leave your radio or other accessories


Notice: on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and other accessories when jump starting your vehicle.


3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug


unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or the accessory power outlet. Turn off the radio and all lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save the radio!


4. Open the hoods and locate the positive (+) and negative (−) terminal locations on each vehicle. You will not need to access your battery for jump starting. Your vehicle has a remote positive (+) and a remote negative (−) jump starting terminal.


The remote positive (+) terminal is located on the engine compartment fuse block, under a red cap. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. The remote negative (−) ground terminal is a bolt located under the metal frame that supports the radiator. It is at the front of the engine compartment, on the driver’s side of the vehicle, and is marked with a label that says GND (−).


{CAUTION:


An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.


5-44


{CAUTION:


{CAUTION:


Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you do not, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.


Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.


5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or


missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks.


5-45


8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.


9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable at


least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less. Your vehicle has a remote negative (−) terminal for this purpose.


10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run


the engine for a while.


6. Remove the terminal cover and connect the red


positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.


7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.


11. Press the unlock button on the remote keyless


entry transmitter to disarm your security system, if equipped.


12. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery.


If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service.


5-46


If the jumper cables are connected or


Notice: removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always connect and remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal.


To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the


vehicle that had the dead battery.


2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the


vehicle with the good battery.


3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the


vehicle with the good battery.


4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the


other vehicle.


5. Return the red protector cap to its original position.


Jumper Cable Removal


A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part B. Good Battery C. Dead Battery


5-47


Halogen Bulbs


{CAUTION:


Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.


Headlamp Aiming Headlamp aim has been preset at the factory and should need no further adjustment. If your vehicle is damaged in an accident, the headlamp aim may be affected. Aim adjustment to the low-beam headlamps may be necessary if it is difficult to see the lane markers (for horizontal aim), or if oncoming drivers flash their high-beam headlamps at you (for vertical aim). If you believe your headlamps need to be re-aimed, we recommend that you take your vehicle to your retailer for service. Bulb Replacement For the type of bulb to use, see Replacement Bulbs on page 5-55. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your retailer.


5-48


Headlamps (Coupe) To change a headlamp bulb on a coupe model, do the following: 1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on page 5-10


for more information.


4. Raise the lock tab and pull the connector from the base of the bulb to remove the electrical connector from the headlamp bulb.


2. Pull up on the headlamp retaining pins to remove


them from the headlamp assembly.


3. Pull the headlamp assembly away from the vehicle


and remove the electrical connector.


5. Remove the retaining nut by turning it


counterclockwise.


6. Remove the bulb and replace it with the


appropriate bulb.


7. Reverse the steps to reinstall the headlamp


assembly.


5-49


Headlamps (Sedan) To change a headlamp bulb on a sedan model, do the following: 1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on page 5-10


for more information.


4. Access the bulb by turning the dust cap


counterclockwise to remove it.


2. Pull up on the headlamp retaining pins to remove


them from the headlamp assembly.


3. Pull the headlamp assembly away from the vehicle


and remove the electrical connector.


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5. Raise the lock tab and pull the connector (A) from


the base of the bulb to remove the electrical connector.


6. Remove the bulb retaining nut by turning it


counterclockwise.


7. Remove the bulb and replace it with the


appropriate bulb.


8. Reverse the steps to reinstall the lamp assembly.


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Front Turn Signal, Parking and Daytime Running Lamps (DRL) (Coupe) To change this bulb on a coupe model, do the following: 1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on page 5-10


for more information.


2. Reach behind the headlamp from inside the hood. 3. Rotate the bulb socket counterclockwise to


remove it from the housing.


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4. Pull the bulb from the socket and replace it with the


appropriate bulb.


5. Reinstall the bulb socket by turning it clockwise.


Front Turn Signal, Parking and Daytime Running Lamps (DRL) (Sedan) To change this bulb on a sedan model, do the following: 1. Follow Steps 1 through 4 to remove the headlamp


assembly. See the headlamp removal for sedan under Headlamps (Coupe) on page 5-49 or Headlamps (Sedan) on page 5-50. This bulb is located next to the high/low-beam headlamp.


2. Remove the bulb socket by rotating it


counterclockwise.


3. Remove the bulb and replace it with the


appropriate bulb.


4. Reverse the steps to reinstall the lamp assembly.


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Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) To change a CHMSL bulb, do the following: 1. Remove the CHMSL cover by pulling down on the


cover edges from inside the vehicle.


Taillamps, Turn Signal, Stoplamps and Back-up Lamps To change one of these bulbs, do the following: 1. Open the trunk. See Trunk on page 2-11 for more


information.


2. Remove the three retaining screws from the


taillamp assembly.


2. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise to remove it. 3. Replace with the appropriate bulb. 4. Reinstall the bulb socket by turning it clockwise. 5. Replace the cover.


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3. Slide the taillamp assembly back and remove it


from the quarter panel.


Replacement Bulbs


Exterior Lamp


Bulb Number


Back-up Lamps


CHMSL


Front Turn Signal/ Parking Lamp/DRL


Headlamps


Stoplamp and Taillamps (Top)


1Phillips Only


921


PC-175


5702KA 1


9007


3057K


For replacement bulbs not listed here, contact your retailer.


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4. Remove the bulb socket by turning it


counterclockwise.


5. Pull the bulb from the socket and replace it with the


appropriate bulb.


6. Reverse the steps to reinstall the taillamp assembly.


Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected for wear and cracking. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4
for more information. Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. For proper type and length, see Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 6-15.


To replace the windshield wiper blade assembly do the following: 1. Lift the wiper arm away from the windshield.


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2. Push the release lever (B) to disengage the hook and push the wiper arm (A) out of the blade (C).


3. Push the new wiper blade securely on the


wiper arm until you hear the release lever click into place.


Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your Saturn Warranty booklet for details. For additional information refer to the tire manufacturer’s booklet included with your vehicle.


{CAUTION:


(cid:127) Poorly maintained and improperly used


tires are dangerous.


(cid:127) Overloading your tires can cause


overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31.


CAUTION:


(Continued)


CAUTION:


(Continued)


(cid:127) Underinflated tires pose the same danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold.


(cid:127) Overinflated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured, or broken by a sudden impact — such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure.


(cid:127) Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If your tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them.


See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-64
for inflation pressure adjustment for high speed driving.


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Low-Profile Performance Tire (Red Line) If your vehicle has 215/45ZR17 size tires, they are classified as “low-profile performance” tires. These tires are designed for very responsive driving on wet or dry pavement. You may also notice more road noise with low-profile performance tires and that they tend to wear faster. Notice: are more susceptible to damage from road hazards or curb impact than standard profile tires. Tire and/or wheel assembly damage can occur when coming into contact with road hazards like, potholes, or sharp edged objects, or when sliding into a curb. Your GM warranty does not cover this type of damage. Keep tires set to the correct inflation pressure and, when possible avoid contact with curbs, potholes, and other road hazards.


If your vehicle has low-profile tires, they


For cold weather driving conditions, you may prefer to get tires designed for snow or ice. See your dealer for details regarding winter tire availability and proper tire selection. Also, see Buying New Tires on page 5-68. If you choose to use winter tires: (cid:127) Use tires of the same brand and tread type on all


four wheel positions.


(cid:127) Use only radial ply tires of the same size, load


range, and speed rating as your original equipment tires.


Winter tires with the same speed rating as your original equipment tires may not be available for H, V, W and ZR speed rated tires. If you choose winter tires with a lower speed rating, never exceed the tire’s maximum speed capability.


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Tire Sidewall Labeling Useful information about a tire is molded into its sidewall. The examples below show a typical passenger vehicle tire and a compact spare tire sidewall.


Passenger (P-Metric) Tire Example


(A) Tire Size: The tire size is a combination of letters and numbers used to define a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type, and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail.


(B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines. (C) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards. (D) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT (Department of Transportation) code is the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture.


(E) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread.


(F) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction, and temperature resistance. For more information see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-70.


(G) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load.


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(C) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following the DOT (Department of Transportation) code is the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture.


(D) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load.


(E) Tire Inflation: The temporary use tire or compact spare tire should be inflated to 60 psi (420 kPa). For more information on tire pressure and inflation see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-64.


(F) Tire Size: A combination of letters and numbers define a tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type, and service description. The letter T as the first character in the tire size means the tire is for temporary use only.


(G) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines.


Compact Spare Tire Example


(A) Temporary Use Only: The compact spare tire or temporary use tire has a tread life of approximately 3,000 miles (5 000 km) and should not be driven at speeds over 65 mph (105 km/h). The compact spare tire is for emergency use when a regular road tire has lost air and gone flat. If your vehicle has a compact spare tire, see Compact Spare Tire on page 5-90
and If a Tire Goes Flat on page 5-75.


(B) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread.


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Tire Size The following illustration shows an example of a typical passenger vehicle tire size.


(A) Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter P as the first character in the tire size means a passenger vehicle tire engineered to standards set by the U.S. Tire and Rim Association.


(B) Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall.


(C) Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is 60, as shown in item C of the illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is 60 percent as high as it is wide.


(D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter R means radial ply construction; the letter D means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter B means belted-bias ply construction.


(E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches.


(F) Service Description: These characters represent the load range and speed rating of the tire. The load index represents the load carry capacity a tire is certified to carry. The load index can range from 1 to 279. The speed rating is the maximum speed a tire is certified to carry a load. Speed ratings range from A to Z.


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Tire Terminology and Definitions


Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa).


Accessory Weight: This means the combined weight of optional accessories. Some examples of optional accessories are, automatic transmission, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air conditioning.


Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire’s height to its width.


Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials.


Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim.


Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the plies are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.


Cold Inflation Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up heat from driving. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-64.


Curb Weight: This means the weight of a motor vehicle with standard and optional equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil, and coolant, but without passengers and cargo.


DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identification Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand, and date of production.


GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31.


GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front axle, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31.


GAWR RR: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31.


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Intended Outboard Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire, that must always face outward when mounted on a vehicle.


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