Download PDF Manual

into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you are driving.


Automatic Transaxle Fluid It is not necessary to check the transaxle fluid level. A transaxle fluid leak is the only reason for fluid loss. If a leak occurs, take the vehicle to your retailer’s service department and have it repaired as soon as possible. Change the fluid and filter at the intervals listed in Additional Required Services on page 6-6, and be sure to use the transaxle fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13. Notice: Use of the incorrect automatic transaxle fluid may damage your vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use the automatic transaxle fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13.


Manual Transaxle Fluid It is not necessary to check the transaxle fluid level. A transaxle fluid leak is the only reason for fluid loss. If a leak occurs, take the vehicle to your retailer’s service department and have it repaired as soon as possible. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13
for the proper fluid to use.


5-24


Hydraulic Clutch The hydraulic clutch linkage in your vehicle is self-adjusting. This system does not have its own reservoir. It receives fluid from the brake master cylinder reservoir. See Brakes on page 5-39 for more information.


Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for five years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if you add only DEX-COOL® extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating on page 5-29.


A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant will: (cid:127) Give freezing protection down to −34°F (−37°C). (cid:127) Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C). (cid:127) Protect against rust and corrosion. (cid:127) Help keep the proper engine temperature. (cid:127) Let the warning lights and gages work as


they should.


Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at the first maintenance service after each 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle.


5-25


If you use an improper coolant mixture,


Notice: your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core, and other parts. If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your retailer check your cooling system. Notice: in your vehicle’s cooling system, you could damage your vehicle. Use only the proper mixture of the engine coolant listed in this manual for the cooling system. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13 for more information.


If you use extra inhibitors and/or additives


What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL® coolant which will not damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you do not need to add anything else.


{CAUTION:


Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.


5-26


Checking Coolant


The surge tank is located on the driver’s side of the engine compartment. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.


{CAUTION:


Turning the surge tank pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. Never turn the surge tank pressure cap — even a little — when the engine and radiator are hot.


The vehicle must be parked on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be near the cold fill line. When your engine is warm, the level should be at the cold fill line or a little higher. If the COOLANT warning message comes on and stays on, it means you are low on engine coolant.


5-27


Checking Intercooler System Coolant (2.0L L4 Engine Only)


Park your vehicle on a level surface and turn off the engine. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be just visible within the horizontal tube section of the fill neck. When your engine is warm, the coolant level could be as high as the FULL HOT line, or a little higher. The FULL HOT line has an arrow pointing down at it.


5-28


Notice: This vehicle has a specific coolant fill procedure. Failure to follow this procedure could cause your engine to overheat and be severely damaged. Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture at the surge tank and/or intercooler fill neck, but only when the engine is cool. See Cooling System on page 5-31 for instructions on how to add coolant to the coolant surge tank and/or intercooler fill neck.


{CAUTION:


You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.


When replacing a pressure cap, make sure it is hand-tight and fully seated.


Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap If the pressure cap is not tightly installed, Notice: coolant loss and possible engine damage may occur. Be sure the cap is properly and tightly secured. If you replace your coolant surge tank pressure cap, a Saturn cap is required.


Engine Overheating You will find a coolant temperature gage and a low coolant level warning message on your vehicle’s instrument panel. See Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 3-36 for more information. You also have a check gage message and a transaxle fluid hot message. See Check Gage Message on page 3-45 and Transaxle Fluid Hot Message on page 3-45. Notice: Driving with either the CHK GAGE message or the COOLANT message displayed in the message center and the Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on your instrument panel in the red zone could cause your vehicle to overheat. See Engine Overheating on page 5-29. Your vehicle could be damaged and the damages might not be covered by your warranty.


If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine


{CAUTION:


Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool.


If your engine catches fire because you


Notice: keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty.


5-29


If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning does not come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues and you have not stopped, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there is still no sign of steam, you can idle the engine for three minutes while you are parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.


If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine If you get an engine overheat warning with no warning messages, but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: (cid:127) Climb a long hill on a hot day. (cid:127) Stop after high-speed driving. (cid:127) Idle for long periods in traffic. (cid:127) Tow a trailer. If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. If you have an air conditioner and it is on, turn it off. 2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan


speed and open the windows as necessary.


3. Try to minimize engine load. If you are in a traffic jam, shift to NEUTRAL (N); otherwise, shift to the highest gear possible while driving.


5-30


Cooling System When you decide it is safe to lift the hood, here is what you will see:


{CAUTION:


An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.


If the coolant inside the coolant surge tank is boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface.


2.2L L4 Engine shown, 2.4L L4 and


2.0L L4 Supercharged Engines similar


A. Electric Engine Cooling Fan B. Coolant Surge Tank with Pressure Cap


5-31


The coolant level should be at the cold fill line. If it is not, you may have a leak at the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump, or somewhere else in the cooling system.


{CAUTION:


Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.


If there seems to be no leak, with the engine on, check to see if the electric engine cooling fan is running. If the engine is overheating, the fan should be running. If it is not, your vehicle needs service. Turn off the engine. Notice: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant is not covered by your warranty. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle.


5-32


{CAUTION:


Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.


How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Surge Tank If you have not found a problem yet, check to see if coolant is visible in the surge tank. If coolant is visible but the coolant level is not at the cold fill line, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant at the coolant surge tank, but be sure the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is cool before you do it. See Engine Coolant on page 5-25 for more information.


{CAUTION:


Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the coolant surge tank pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and coolant surge tank pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.


5-33


In cold weather, water can freeze and crack


Notice: the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture.


{CAUTION:


You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.


5-34


1. You can remove the coolant surge tank pressure cap when the cooling system, including the upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise about one-quarter of a turn. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. This will allow any pressure still left to be vented out the discharge hose.


2. Then keep turning the pressure cap slowly, and


remove it.


3. Fill the coolant surge tank with the proper


DEX-COOL® coolant mixture, to the cold fill line.


4. With the coolant surge tank pressure cap off, start


the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fan.


By this time, the coolant level inside the coolant surge tank may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture to the coolant surge tank until the level reaches the cold fill line.


5. Then replace the pressure cap. Be sure the pressure cap is hand-tight and fully seated.


Check the level in the surge tank when the cooling system has cooled down. If the coolant is not at the proper level, repeat Steps 1 through 3 and reinstall the pressure cap. If the coolant is not at the proper level when the system cools down again, see your retailer.


5-35


How to Add Coolant to the Intercooler System Fill Neck (2.0L L4 Supercharged Engine Only) If you have not found a problem yet, turn the engine off and allow it to cool down, then check to see if coolant is visible within the horizontal tube section of the fill neck. If coolant is not visible, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant to the fill neck. Be sure the Intercooler System, including the Intercooler System pressure cap, is cool before doing so. See Engine Coolant on page 5-25 for more information.


{CAUTION:


Turning the Intercooler System pressure cap when the engine and intercooler are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. Never turn the Intercooler System pressure cap, even a little, when the engine and intercooler are hot.


{CAUTION:


Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.


In cold weather, water can freeze and crack


Notice: the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture.


5-36


{CAUTION:


You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.


1. You can remove the Intercooler System pressure


cap when the Intercooler System, including the upper intercooler hoses, are no longer hot.


Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise about one-quarter of a turn. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. This will allow any pressure still left to be vented.


2. Then keep turning the pressure cap slowly, and


remove it.


3. Add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture to the fill neck, until there is coolant visible in the horizontal tube section of the fill neck.


4. With the Intercooler System pressure cap off, start


the engine and let it run for a couple of minutes. Watch out for the engine cooling fan. Turn the engine off. By this time, the coolant level inside the fill neck may be lower. If the level drops to where coolant is no longer visible in the horizontal tube section of the fill neck, with the engine off add more of the DEX-COOL® coolant mixture to the fill neck until the level is again visible in the horizontal tube section.


5. Then replace the pressure cap. Be sure the pressure cap is hand-tight and fully seated.


If the coolant is not at the proper level when the system cools down again, see your retailer.


5-37


Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing. Adding Windshield Washer Fluid


Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer fluid until the tank is full. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for reservoir location.


Notice: (cid:127) When using concentrated washer fluid,


follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.


(cid:127) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer


fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer fluid.


(cid:127) Fill your washer fluid tank only three-quarters full


when it is very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.


(cid:127) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.


5-38


Brakes Brake Fluid


The hydraulic clutch and brake master cylinder use the same reservoir. The reservoir is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12
for the location of the reservoir.


There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system or hydraulic clutch system if you have a manual transaxle. If it is, you should have both systems checked and the necessary repairs made, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes and/or clutch will not work well, or will not work at all.


So, it is not a good idea to top off your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid will not correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you will have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add or remove brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake and/or clutch hydraulic system.


{CAUTION:


If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake and/or clutch hydraulic system.


When your brake fluid falls to a low level, your brake warning light will come on. See Brake System Warning Light on page 3-34.


5-39


Checking Brake Fluid You can check the brake fluid level without removing the reservoir cap by just looking at the brake fluid reservoir. The fluid level should be at or below the MAX fill mark. After work has been done on the brake hydraulic system, make sure the level does not exceed the MAX fill mark on the reservoir. What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.


{CAUTION:


With the wrong kind of fluid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.


Notice: (cid:127) Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. (cid:127) If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted


surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-94.


5-40


Brake Wear Your vehicle has front disc brakes and rear drum brakes or rear disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving, except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly.


{CAUTION:


The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.


Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair. Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes.


Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to Saturn specifications. The rear drum brakes do not have wear indicators, but if you ever hear a rear brake rubbing noise, have the rear brake linings inspected immediately. Also, the rear brake drums should be removed and inspected each time the tires are removed for rotation or changing. When you have the front brake pads replaced, have the rear brakes inspected, too. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. Brake Pedal Travel See your retailer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you make a moderate brake stop, your brakes adjust for wear. If you rarely make a moderate or heavier stop, then your brakes might not adjust correctly. If you drive in that way, then — very carefully — make a few moderate brake stops about every 1,000 miles (1 600 km), so your brakes will adjust properly.


5-41


Warning: Battery posts, terminals, and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling. Vehicle Storage If you are not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.


{CAUTION:


Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 5-43 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.


Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system — for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure you get new approved Saturn replacement parts. If you do not, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance you have come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.


Battery Your vehicle has a maintenance free battery. When it is time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco® replacement battery. Your vehicle’s battery is located in the trunk next to the compact spare tire. To access the battery, use the trunk’s floor carpet latch to lift the cover up.


5-42


Jump Starting If your vehicle’s battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely.


{CAUTION:


Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:


(cid:127) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:127) They contain gas that can explode or


(cid:127) They contain enough electricity to


ignite.


burn you.


If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.


Ignoring these steps could result in costly


Notice: damage to your vehicle that would not be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage your vehicle.


1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt


battery with a negative ground system.


If the other vehicle’s system is not a 12-volt


Notice: system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle.


2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transaxle in PARK (P) or a manual transaxle in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake.


5-43


If you leave your radio or other accessories


Notice: on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and other accessories when jump starting your vehicle.


3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug


unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or the accessory power outlet. Turn off the radio and all lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save the radio!


4. Open the hoods and locate the positive (+) and negative (−) terminal locations on each vehicle. You will not need to access your battery for jump starting. Your vehicle has a remote positive (+) and a remote negative (−) jump starting terminal.


The remote positive (+) terminal is located on the engine compartment fuse block, under a red cap. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. The remote negative (−) ground terminal is a bolt located under the metal frame that supports the radiator. It is at the front of the engine compartment, on the driver’s side of the vehicle, and is marked with a label that says GND (−).


{CAUTION:


An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.


5-44


{CAUTION:


{CAUTION:


Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you do not, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.


Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.


5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or


missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks.


5-45


8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.


9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable at


least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less. Your vehicle has a remote negative (−) terminal for this purpose.


10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run


the engine for a while.


6. Remove the terminal cover and connect the red


positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.


7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.


11. Press the unlock button on the remote keyless


entry transmitter to disarm your security system, if equipped.


12. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery.


If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service.


5-46


If the jumper cables are connected or


Notice: removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always connect and remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal.


To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the


vehicle that had the dead battery.


2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the


vehicle with the good battery.


3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the


vehicle with the good battery.


4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the


other vehicle.


5. Return the red protector cap to its original position.


Jumper Cable Removal


A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part B. Good Battery C. Dead Battery


5-47


Halogen Bulbs


{CAUTION:


Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.


Headlamp Aiming Headlamp aim has been preset at the factory and should need no further adjustment. If your vehicle is damaged in an accident, the headlamp aim may be affected. Aim adjustment to the low-beam headlamps may be necessary if it is difficult to see the lane markers (for horizontal aim), or if oncoming drivers flash their high-beam headlamps at you (for vertical aim). If you believe your headlamps need to be re-aimed, we recommend that you take your vehicle to your retailer for service. Bulb Replacement For the type of bulb to use, see Replacement Bulbs on page 5-55. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your retailer.


5-48


Headlamps (Coupe) To change a headlamp bulb on a coupe model, do the following: 1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on page 5-10


for more information.


4. Raise the lock tab and pull the connector from the base of the bulb to remove the electrical connector from the headlamp bulb.


2. Pull up on the headlamp retaining pins to remove


them from the headlamp assembly.


3. Pull the headlamp assembly away from the vehicle


and remove the electrical connector.


5. Remove the retaining nut by turning it


counterclockwise.


6. Remove the bulb and replace it with the


appropriate bulb.


7. Reverse the steps to reinstall the headlamp


assembly.


5-49


Headlamps (Sedan) To change a headlamp bulb on a sedan model, do the following: 1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on page 5-10


for more information.


4. Access the bulb by turning the dust cap


counterclockwise to remove it.


2. Pull up on the headlamp retaining pins to remove


them from the headlamp assembly.


3. Pull the headlamp assembly away from the vehicle


and remove the electrical connector.


5-50


5. Raise the lock tab and pull the connector (A) from


the base of the bulb to remove the electrical connector.


6. Remove the bulb retaining nut by turning it


counterclockwise.


7. Remove the bulb and replace it with the


appropriate bulb.


8. Reverse the steps to reinstall the lamp assembly.


5-51


Front Turn Signal, Parking and Daytime Running Lamps (DRL) (Coupe) To change this bulb on a coupe model, do the following: 1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on page 5-10


for more information.


2. Reach behind the headlamp from inside the hood. 3. Rotate the bulb socket counterclockwise to


remove it from the housing.


5-52


4. Pull the bulb from the socket and replace it with the


appropriate bulb.


5. Reinstall the bulb socket by turning it clockwise.


Front Turn Signal, Parking and Daytime Running Lamps (DRL) (Sedan) To change this bulb on a sedan model, do the following: 1. Follow Steps 1 through 4 to remove the headlamp


assembly. See the headlamp removal for sedan under Headlamps (Coupe) on page 5-49 or Headlamps (Sedan) on page 5-50. This bulb is located next to the high/low-beam headlamp.


2. Remove the bulb socket by rotating it


counterclockwise.


3. Remove the bulb and replace it with the


appropriate bulb.


4. Reverse the steps to reinstall the lamp assembly.


5-53


Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) To change a CHMSL bulb, do the following: 1. Remove the CHMSL cover by pulling down on the


cover edges from inside the vehicle.


Taillamps, Turn Signal, Stoplamps and Back-up Lamps To change one of these bulbs, do the following: 1. Open the trunk. See Trunk on page 2-11 for more


information.


2. Remove the three retaining screws from the


taillamp assembly.


2. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise to remove it. 3. Replace with the appropriate bulb. 4. Reinstall the bulb socket by turning it clockwise. 5. Replace the cover.


5-54


3. Slide the taillamp assembly back and remove it


from the quarter panel.


Replacement Bulbs


Exterior Lamp


Bulb Number


Back-up Lamps


CHMSL


Front Turn Signal/ Parking Lamp/DRL


Headlamps


Stoplamp and Taillamps (Top)


1Phillips Only


921


PC-175


5702KA 1


9007


3057K


For replacement bulbs not listed here, contact your retailer.


5-55


4. Remove the bulb socket by turning it


counterclockwise.


5. Pull the bulb from the socket and replace it with the


appropriate bulb.


6. Reverse the steps to reinstall the taillamp assembly.


Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected for wear and cracking. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4
for more information. Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. For proper type and length, see Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 6-15.


To replace the windshield wiper blade assembly do the following: 1. Lift the wiper arm away from the windshield.


5-56


2. Push the release lever (B) to disengage the hook and push the wiper arm (A) out of the blade (C).


3. Push the new wiper blade securely on the


wiper arm until you hear the release lever click into place.


Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your Saturn Warranty booklet for details. For additional information refer to the tire manufacturer’s booklet included with your vehicle.


{CAUTION:


(cid:127) Poorly maintained and improperly used


tires are dangerous.


(cid:127) Overloading your tires can cause


overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31.


CAUTION:


(Continued)


CAUTION:


(Continued)


(cid:127) Underinflated tires pose the same danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold.


(cid:127) Overinflated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured, or broken by a sudden impact — such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure.


(cid:127) Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If your tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them.


See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-64
for inflation pressure adjustment for high speed driving.


5-57


Low-Profile Performance Tire (Red Line) If your vehicle has 215/45ZR17 size tires, they are classified as “low-profile performance” tires. These tires are designed for very responsive driving on wet or dry pavement. You may also notice more road noise with low-profile performance tires and that they tend to wear faster. Notice: are more susceptible to damage from road hazards or curb impact than standard profile tires. Tire and/or wheel assembly damage can occur when coming into contact with road hazards like, potholes, or sharp edged objects, or when sliding into a curb. Your GM warranty does not cover this type of damage. Keep tires set to the correct inflation pressure and, when possible avoid contact with curbs, potholes, and other road hazards.


If your vehicle has low-profile tires, they


For cold weather driving conditions, you may prefer to get tires designed for snow or ice. See your dealer for details regarding winter tire availability and proper tire selection. Also, see Buying New Tires on page 5-68. If you choose to use winter tires: (cid:127) Use tires of the same brand and tread type on all


four wheel positions.


(cid:127) Use only radial ply tires of the same size, load


range, and speed rating as your original equipment tires.


Winter tires with the same speed rating as your original equipment tires may not be available for H, V, W and ZR speed rated tires. If you choose winter tires with a lower speed rating, never exceed the tire’s maximum speed capability.


5-58


Tire Sidewall Labeling Useful information about a tire is molded into its sidewall. The examples below show a typical passenger vehicle tire and a compact spare tire sidewall.


Passenger (P-Metric) Tire Example


(A) Tire Size: The tire size is a combination of letters and numbers used to define a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type, and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail.


(B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines. (C) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards. (D) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT (Department of Transportation) code is the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture.


(E) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread.


(F) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction, and temperature resistance. For more information see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-70.


(G) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load.


5-59


(C) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following the DOT (Department of Transportation) code is the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture.


(D) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load.


(E) Tire Inflation: The temporary use tire or compact spare tire should be inflated to 60 psi (420 kPa). For more information on tire pressure and inflation see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-64.


(F) Tire Size: A combination of letters and numbers define a tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type, and service description. The letter T as the first character in the tire size means the tire is for temporary use only.


(G) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines.


Compact Spare Tire Example


(A) Temporary Use Only: The compact spare tire or temporary use tire has a tread life of approximately 3,000 miles (5 000 km) and should not be driven at speeds over 65 mph (105 km/h). The compact spare tire is for emergency use when a regular road tire has lost air and gone flat. If your vehicle has a compact spare tire, see Compact Spare Tire on page 5-90
and If a Tire Goes Flat on page 5-75.


(B) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread.


5-60


Tire Size The following illustration shows an example of a typical passenger vehicle tire size.


(A) Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter P as the first character in the tire size means a passenger vehicle tire engineered to standards set by the U.S. Tire and Rim Association.


(B) Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall.


(C) Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is 60, as shown in item C of the illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is 60 percent as high as it is wide.


(D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter R means radial ply construction; the letter D means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter B means belted-bias ply construction.


(E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches.


(F) Service Description: These characters represent the load range and speed rating of the tire. The load index represents the load carry capacity a tire is certified to carry. The load index can range from 1 to 279. The speed rating is the maximum speed a tire is certified to carry a load. Speed ratings range from A to Z.


5-61


Tire Terminology and Definitions


Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa).


Accessory Weight: This means the combined weight of optional accessories. Some examples of optional accessories are, automatic transmission, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air conditioning.


Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire’s height to its width.


Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials.


Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim.


Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the plies are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.


Cold Inflation Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up heat from driving. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-64.


Curb Weight: This means the weight of a motor vehicle with standard and optional equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil, and coolant, but without passengers and cargo.


DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identification Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand, and date of production.


GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31.


GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front axle, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31.


GAWR RR: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31.


5-62


Intended Outboard Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire, that must always face outward when mounted on a vehicle.


Kilopascal (kPa): The metric unit for air pressure.


Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: A tire used on light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles.


Load Index: An assigned number ranging from 1 to 279
that corresponds to the load carrying capacity of a tire.


Maximum Inflation Pressure: The maximum air pressure to which a cold tire may be inflated. The maximum air pressure is molded onto the sidewall.


Maximum Load Rating: The load rating for a tire at the maximum permissible inflation pressure for that tire.


Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight: The sum of curb weight, accessory weight, vehicle capacity weight, and production options weight.


Normal Occupant Weight: The number of occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31.


Occupant Distribution: Designated seating positions.


Outward Facing Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that faces outward when mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears white lettering, or bears manufacturer, brand, and/or model name molding that is higher or deeper than the same moldings on the other sidewall of the tire.


Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: A tire used on passenger cars and some light duty trucks and multipurpose vehicles.


Recommended Inflation Pressure: Vehicle manufacturer’s recommended tire inflation pressure as shown on the tire placard. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-64 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31.


Radial Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.


Rim: A metal support for a tire and upon which the tire beads are seated.


5-63


Sidewall: The portion of a tire between the tread and the bead.


Speed Rating: An alphanumeric code assigned to a tire indicating the maximum speed at which a tire can operate.


Traction: The friction between the tire and the road surface. The amount of grip provided.


Tread: The portion of a tire that comes into contact with the road.


Treadwear Indicators: Narrow bands, sometimes called wear bars, that show across the tread of a tire when only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) of tread remains. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-68.


UTQGS (Uniform Tire Quality Grading Standards): A tire information system that provides consumers with ratings for a tire’s traction, temperature, and treadwear. Ratings are determined by tire manufacturers using government testing procedures. The ratings are molded into the sidewall of the tire. See Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-70.


Vehicle Capacity Weight: The number of designated seating positions multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg) plus the rated cargo load. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31.


Vehicle Maximum Load on the Tire: Load on an individual tire due to curb weight, accessory weight, occupant weight, and cargo weight.


Vehicle Placard: A label permanently attached to a vehicle showing the vehicle’s capacity weight and the original equipment tire size and recommended inflation pressure. See “Tire and Loading Information Label” under Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31.


Inflation - Tire Pressure Tires need the correct amount of air pressure to operate effectively. Notice: Do not let anyone tell you that under-inflation or over-inflation is all right. It is not. If your tires do not have enough air (under-inflation), you can get the following: (cid:127) Too much flexing (cid:127) Too much heat (cid:127) Tire overloading (cid:127) Premature or irregular wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Reduced fuel economy


5-64


If your tires have too much air (over-inflation), you can get the following: (cid:127) Unusual wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Rough ride (cid:127) Needless damage from road hazards A Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the vehicle’s center pillar, below the driver’s door latch or inside the glove box. This label lists your vehicle’s original equipment tires and their recommended cold tire inflation pressures. The recommended cold tire inflation pressure, shown on the label, is the minimum amount of air pressure needed to support your vehicle’s maximum load carrying capacity. For additional information regarding how much weight your vehicle can carry, and an example of the tire and loading information label, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31. How you load your vehicle affects vehicle handling and ride comfort, never load your vehicle with more weight than it was designed to carry. When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Do not forget to check the compact spare tire, it should be at 60 psi (420 kPa). For additional information regarding the compact spare tire, see Compact Spare Tire on page 5-90.


How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You cannot tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they’re under-inflated. Check the tire’s inflation pressure when the tires are cold. Cold means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km). Remove the valve cap from the tire valve stem. Press the tire gage firmly onto the valve to get a pressure measurement. If the cold tire inflation pressure matches the recommended pressure on the Tire and Loading Information label, no further adjustment is necessary. If the inflation pressure is low, add air until you reach the recommended amount. If you overfill the tire, release air by pushing on the metal stem in the center of the tire valve. Recheck the tire pressure with the tire gage. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.


5-65


High Speed Operation (Red Line)


{CAUTION:


Driving at high speeds, 100 mph (160 km/h) or higher, puts an additional strain on tires. Sustained high-speed driving causes excessive heat build up and can cause sudden tire failure. You could have a crash and you or others could be killed. Some high-speed rated tires require inflation pressure adjustment for high speed operation. When speed limits and road conditions are such that a vehicle can be driven at high speeds, make sure the tires are rated for high speed operation, in excellent condition, and set to the correct cold tire inflation pressure for the vehicle load.


If your vehicle has 215/45ZR17 size tires, set the cold tire inflation pressure to 33 psi (227 kPa) for the front and rear tires when operating your vehicle under high-speed conditions. When you end high-speed driving, return the tires to the cold inflation pressure shown on the tire and loading information label.


5-66


Tire Inspection and Rotation Tires should be rotated every 5,000 to 8,000 miles (8 000 to 13 000 km). Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-68 and Wheel Replacement on page 5-72 for more information. The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The first rotation is the most important. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4.


Non-Directional Tires


When rotating non-directional tires, always use the correct rotation pattern shown here.


After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the Tire and Loading Information label. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31 for an example of the tire and loading information label and its location on your vehicle. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” under Capacities and Specifications on page 5-109.


{CAUTION:


Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel bolts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-76.


5-67


Directional Tires


If your vehicle has 215/45ZR17 size tires, they are directional tires and must roll in a certain direction for the best overall performance. The direction is shown by an arrow on the tire sidewall. Because these tires are directional, they should be rotated as shown here. These tires should only be moved from front to rear and rear to front on the same side of the vehicle. Do not include the compact spare tire in your tire rotation.


Buying New Tires GM has developed and matched specific tires for your vehicle. The original equipment tires installed on your vehicle, when it was new, were designed to meet General Motors Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC spec) system rating. If you need replacement tires, GM strongly recommends that you get tires with the same TPC Spec rating. This way, your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give the same performance and vehicle safety, during normal use, as the original tires. GM’s exclusive TPC Spec system considers over a dozen critical specifications that impact the overall performance of your vehicle, including brake system performance, ride and handling, traction control, and tire pressure monitoring performance. GM’s TPC Spec number is molded onto the tire’s sidewall by the tire manufacturer. If the tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC spec number will be followed by an MS for mud and snow. See Tire Sidewall Labeling on page 5-59 for additional information.


When It Is Time for New Tires


One way to tell when it is time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining.


You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true: (cid:127) You can see the indicators at three or more places


(cid:127) You can see cord or fabric showing through the


around the tire.


tire’s rubber.


(cid:127) The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut, or snagged


deep enough to show cord or fabric. (cid:127) The tire has a bump, bulge, or split. (cid:127) The tire has a puncture, cut, or other damage that


cannot be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage.


5-68


{CAUTION:


{CAUTION:


Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes, brands, or types (radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes, brands, or types may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the correct size, brand, and type of tires on all wheels. It is all right to drive with your compact spare temporarily, as it was developed for use on your vehicle. See Compact Spare Tire on page 5-90.


If you use bias-ply tires on your vehicle, the wheel rim flanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle.


If you must replace your vehicle’s tires with those that do not have a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating, and construction type (radial and bias-belted tires) as your vehicle’s original tires. Your vehicle’s original equipment tires are listed on the Tire and Loading Information Label. This label is attached to the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31, for more information about the Tire and Loading Information Label and its location on your vehicle.


5-69


Uniform Tire Quality Grading Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum section width. For example: Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA), which grades tires by treadwear, traction, and temperature performance. This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States. The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG) system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver, or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards.


Different Size Tires and Wheels If you add wheels or tires that are a different size than your original equipment wheels and tires, this may affect the way your vehicle performs, including its braking, ride and handling characteristics, stability, and resistance to rollover. Additionally, if your vehicle has electronic systems such as, anti-lock brakes, traction control, and stability control, the performance of these systems can be affected.


{CAUTION:


If you add different sized wheels, your vehicle may not provide an acceptable level of performance and safety if tires not recommended for those wheels are selected. You may increase the chance that you will crash and suffer serious injury. Only use Saturn specific wheel and tire systems developed for your vehicle, and have them properly installed by a Saturn certified technician.


See Buying New Tires on page 5-68 and Accessories and Modifications on page 5-3 for additional information.


5-70


Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1.5) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices, and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction – AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics.


Temperature – A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.


5-71


Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The tires and wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. Adjustments to wheel alignment and tire balancing will not be necessary on a regular basis. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling to one side or the other, the alignment may need to be checked. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your tires and wheels may need to be rebalanced. See your retailer for proper diagnosis.


Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your retailer if any of these conditions exist. Your retailer will know the kind of wheel you need. Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces. If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts, replace them only with new Saturn original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for your vehicle.


5-72


Used Replacement Wheels


{CAUTION:


Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is dangerous. You cannot know how it has been used or how far it has been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause a crash. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new Saturn original equipment wheel.


{CAUTION:


Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts, or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts for replacement.


Notice: The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance, and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-76 for more information.


5-73


If your vehicle has a tire size other than


Notice: P195/60R15, P205/55R16 or 215/45ZR17 size tires, use tire chains only where legal and only when you must. Use only SAE Class “S” type chains that are the proper size for your tires. Install them on the front tires and tighten them as tightly as possible with the ends securely fastened. Drive slowly and follow the chain manufacturer’s instructions. If you can hear the chains contacting your vehicle, stop and retighten them. If the contact continues, slow down until it stops. Driving too fast or spinning the wheels with chains on will damage your vehicle.


Tire Chains


{CAUTION:


If your vehicle has P195/60R15, P205/55R16 or 215/45ZR17 size tires, do not use tire chains, there is not enough clearance. Tire chains used on a vehicle without the proper amount of clearance can cause damage to the brakes, suspension or other vehicle parts. The area damaged by the tire chains could cause you to lose control of your vehicle and you or others may be injured in a crash. Use another type of traction device only if its manufacturer recommends it for use on your vehicle and tire size combination and road conditions. Follow that manufacturer’s instructions. To help avoid damage to your vehicle, drive slowly, re-adjust or remove the device if it is contacting your vehicle, and do not spin your wheels. If you do find traction devices that will fit, install them on the front tires.


5-74


If a Tire Goes Flat It is unusual for a tire to blowout while you are driving, especially if you maintain your vehicle’s tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it is much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a blowout, here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane. A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you would use in a skid. In any rear blowout remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop, well off the road if possible.


{CAUTION:


Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do maintenance or repairs is dangerous without the appropriate safety equipment and training. The jack provided with your vehicle is designed only for changing a flat tire. If it is used for anything else, you or others could be badly injured or killed if the vehicle slips off the jack. Use the jack provided with your vehicle only for changing a flat tire.


If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use the jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.


5-75


Changing a Flat Tire If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard warning flashers.


{CAUTION:


Changing a tire can be dangerous. The vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over or fall on you or other people. You and they could be badly injured or even killed. Find a level place to change your tire. To help prevent the vehicle from moving:


1. Set the parking brake firmly. 2. Put an automatic transaxle shift lever in PARK (P), or shift a manual transaxle to FIRST (1) or REVERSE (R).


3. Turn off the engine and do not restart


while the vehicle is raised.


4. Do not allow passengers to remain in the


vehicle.


CAUTION:


(Continued)


5-76


CAUTION:


(Continued)


To be even more certain the vehicle will not move, you should put blocks at the front and rear of the tire farthest away from the one being changed. That would be the tire on the other side, at the opposite end of the vehicle.


When you have a flat tire, use the following example as a guide to assist you in the placement of wheel blocks.


The following information will tell you how to use the jack and change a tire.


Removing the Spare Tire and Tools The equipment you will need is located in the trunk. Models with a 2.2L L4 or 2.4L Engine 1. Open the trunk. See Trunk on page 2-11 for


more information.


2. Lift the trunk liner to access the spare tire and tools.


5-77


A. Cover B. Retainer C. Spare Tire D. Wing Nut E. Jack and Wheel Wrench F. Bolt


3. Remove the retainer (B) that holds down the spare


tire. See Compact Spare Tire on page 5-90.


4. Remove the spare tire (C) by placing your hands at the four and eight o’clock positions. Gently pull it up and out of the trunk.


5. Remove the wing nut (D) that holds the jack and


remove the jack and wheel wrench (E).


5-78


Models with a 2.0L L4 Supercharged Engine 1. Open the trunk. See Trunk on page 2-11 for more


information.


2. Lift the trunk liner to access the spare tire and tools.


5-79


A. Retainer B. Jack and Wheel Wrench C. Spare Tire D. Foam Support E. Bolt 3. Remove the retainer (A) that holds down the jack,


wheel wrench (B) and spare tire (C).


4. Remove the spare tire by placing your hands at the


four and eight o’clock positions. Gently pull it up and out of the trunk.


5-80


The tools you will be using include the jack (A) and wheel wrench (B).


You will need to turn the plastic wheel nut counterclockwise to loosen the wheel wrench from the jack.


Press the button and then pull on the end of the wheel wrench to extend the handle.


5-81


Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire 1. If your vehicle is equipped with plastic wheel


covers, use the wheel wrench to loosen the plastic wheel nut caps. Once you have loosened the plastic wheel nut caps with the wheel wrench, you can finish loosening them with your fingers. The plastic nut caps do not come off. Using the flat end of the wheel wrench, pry along the edge of the wheel cover until it comes off. If your vehicle has aluminum wheels, first remove the center cap by pulling it out with the wheel wrench.


5-82


2. Use the wheel wrench to loosen all the wheel nuts.


Do not remove them yet.


Notice: Make sure that the jack lift head is in the correct position or you may damage your vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty.


3. Position the jack lift head at the jack location


nearest the flat tire. The front location is about 7 inches (17.8 cm) rearward from the front wheel opening. The rear location is about 2 inches (5.1 cm) forward of the rear wheel opening. Make sure the jack head is touching the metal jacking flange under the body. Do not place the jack under the plastic body panel.


4. Put the compact spare tire near you.


{CAUTION:


Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack.


{CAUTION:


Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned can damage the vehicle and even make the vehicle fall. To help avoid personal injury and vehicle damage, be sure to fit the jack lift head into the proper location before raising the vehicle.


5-83


6. Remove all of the


wheel nuts.


5. Raise the vehicle by turning the jack handle


clockwise. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so there is enough room for the compact spare tire to fit under the vehicle.


5-84


{CAUTION:


Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from the places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if needed, to get all the rust or dirt off.


8. Place the compact spare tire on the wheel-mounting


surface.


{CAUTION:


Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If you do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel could fall off, causing a serious accident.


9. Reinstall the wheel nuts with the rounded end of the nuts toward the wheel. Tighten each nut by hand until the wheel is held against the hub.


7. Remove any rust or dirt


from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces and spare wheel.


5-85


{CAUTION:


Incorrect wheel nuts or improperly tightened wheel nuts can cause the wheel to come loose and even come off. This could lead to an accident. Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts. If you have to replace them, be sure to get new GM original equipment wheel nuts. Stop somewhere as soon as you can and have the nuts tightened with a torque wrench to the proper torque specification. See Capacities and Specifications on page 5-109 for wheel nut torque specification.


Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead


Notice: to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque specification. See Capacities and Specifications on page 5-109 for the wheel nut torque specification.


10. Lower the vehicle by turning the jack handle counterclockwise. Lower the jack completely.


5-86


11. Tighten the wheel nuts firmly in a crisscross


sequence, as shown.


Notice: Wheel covers will not fit on your compact spare. If you try to put a wheel cover on the compact spare, you could damage the cover or the spare. Do not try to put a wheel cover on your compact spare tire. It will not fit. Store the wheel cover in the trunk until you have the flat tire repaired or replaced.


Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools


{CAUTION:


Storing a jack, a tire, or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place.


5-87


A. Cover B. Retainer C. Jack and Wheel Wrench D. Stow Bolt Extension E. Spare Tire F. Bolt


2.2L L4 and 2.4L Engine


5-88


A. Cover B. Retainer C. Jack and Wheel Wrench D. Stow Bolt Extension E. Spare Tire F. Foam Support G. Bolt To store a flat or spare tire and tools, do the following: 1. Remove the stow bolt extension rod and sleeve


from the jack.


2. Re-attach the wheel wrench to the jack. 3. Place the flat tire face down into the spare tire hub. Avoid scraping the aluminum wheel, if equipped, on the hold-down bolt.


4. Screw the stow bolt extension rod and the sleeve


into the existing spare tire hold-down bolt.


5. Place the jack into the center of the flat tire, being


careful not to scratch the inside of the wheel. 6. Place the smaller jack hold-down nut in a safe place for use when you put the compact spare tire back into the trunk.


7. Remove the plastic sleeve from the stow bolt


extension rod. Secure the jack and road wheel using the larger plastic retainer.


5-89


2.0L L4 Supercharged Engine


The compact spare tire is for temporary use only. Replace the compact spare with a full-size tire as soon as possible.


Compact Spare Tire Although the compact spare tire was fully inflated when the vehicle was new, it can lose air after a time. Check the inflation pressure regularly. It should be 60 psi (420 kPa). After installing the compact spare on the vehicle, stop as soon as possible and make sure the spare tire is correctly inflated. The compact spare is made to perform well at speeds up to 65 mph (105 km/h) for distances up to 3,000 miles (5 000 km), so you can finish your trip and have the full-size tire repaired or replaced at your convenience. Of course, it is best to replace the spare with a full-size tire as soon as possible. The spare tire will last longer and be in good shape in case it is needed again. Notice: When the compact spare is installed, do not take your vehicle through an automatic car wash with guide rails. The compact spare can get caught on the rails. That can damage the tire and wheel, and maybe other parts of your vehicle. Do not use the compact spare on other vehicles.


And do not mix the compact spare tire or wheel with other wheels or tires. They will not fit. Keep the spare tire and its wheel together. Notice: Tire chains will not fit your compact spare. Using them can damage your vehicle and can damage the chains too. Do not use tire chains on your compact spare. Appearance Care


Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle Your vehicle’s interior will continue to look its best if it is cleaned often. Although not always visible, dust and dirt can accumulate on your upholstery. Dirt can damage carpet, fabric, leather, and plastic surfaces. Regular vacuuming is recommended to remove particles from your upholstery. It is important to keep your upholstery from becoming and remaining heavily soiled. Soils should be removed as quickly as possible. Your vehicle’s interior may experience extremes of heat that could cause stains to set rapidly. Lighter colored interiors may require more frequent cleaning. Use care because newspapers and garments that transfer color to your home furnishings may also transfer color to your vehicle’s interior.


5-90


If you use abrasive cleaners when cleaning


When cleaning your vehicle’s interior, only use cleaners specifically designed for the surfaces being cleaned. Permanent damage may result from using cleaners on surfaces for which they were not intended. Use glass cleaner only on glass. Remove any accidental over-spray from other surfaces immediately. To prevent over-spray, apply cleaner directly to the cleaning cloth. Notice: glass surfaces on your vehicle, you could scratch the glass and/or cause damage to the rear window defogger. When cleaning the glass on your vehicle, use only a soft cloth and glass cleaner. Many cleaners contain solvents that may become concentrated in your vehicle’s breathing space. Before using cleaners, read and adhere to all safety instructions on the label. While cleaning your vehicle’s interior, maintain adequate ventilation by opening your vehicle’s doors and windows. Dust may be removed from small buttons and knobs using a small brush with soft bristles. Your retailer has a product for cleaning your vehicle’s glass. Should it become necessary, you can also obtain a product from your retailer to remove odors from your vehicle’s upholstery.


Do not clean your vehicle using the following cleaners or techniques: (cid:127) Never use a knife or any other sharp object to


remove a soil from any interior surface.


(cid:127) Never use a stiff brush. It can cause damage to


your vehicle’s interior surfaces.


(cid:127) Never apply heavy pressure or rub aggressively


with a cleaning cloth. Use of heavy pressure can damage your interior and does not improve the effectiveness of soil removal.


(cid:127) Use only mild, neutral-pH soaps. Avoid laundry


detergents or dishwashing soaps with degreasers. Using too much soap will leave a residue that leaves streaks and attracts dirt. For liquid cleaners, about 20 drops per gallon (3.78 L) of water is a good guide.


(cid:127) Do not heavily saturate your upholstery while


cleaning.


(cid:127) Damage to your vehicle’s interior may result from the use of many organic solvents such as naptha, alcohol, etc.


5-91


Fabric/Carpet Use a vacuum cleaner with a soft brush attachment frequently to remove dust and loose dirt. A canister vacuum with a beater bar in the nozzle may only be used on floor carpet and carpeted floor mats. For soils, always try to remove them first with plain water or club soda. Before cleaning, gently remove as much of the soil as possible using one of the following techniques: (cid:127) For liquids: gently blot the remaining soil with a


paper towel. Allow the soil to absorb into the paper towel until no more can be removed.


(cid:127) For solid dry soils: remove as much as possible


and then vacuum.


To clean, use the following instructions: 1. Saturate a lint-free, clean white cloth with water or


club soda.


Loading...
x