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Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 5-36 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.


Warning: Battery posts, terminals, and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling. Your vehicle has a standard 12-volt battery and a 36-volt hybrid battery system.


Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer/retailer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign that brake service might be required. Brake Adjustment Every time you apply the brakes, with or without the vehicle moving, the brakes adjust for wear. Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality brake parts. When you replace parts of the braking system — for example, when the brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure you get new approved replacement parts. If you do not, the brakes might not work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between the front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance you have come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.


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12-Volt Battery When it is time for a new standard 12-volt battery, see your dealer/retailer for one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. 36-Volt Battery System If you need a new 36-volt hybrid battery system, see your dealer/retailer. Vehicle Storage Infrequent Usage: If you drive your vehicle infrequently, remove the 12-volt battery black, negative (−) cable, the one that is exposed. This will help keep the battery from running down. Extended Storage: For extended storage of your vehicle, remove the 12-volt battery black, negative (−) cable from the battery or use a battery trickle charger. This will help maintain the charge of the battery over an extended period of time.


Remember to reconnect the battery when you are ready to drive your vehicle. Notice: The 36-volt hybrid battery system should be serviced only by a qualified facility to avoid battery system damage. See your dealer/retailer if service is needed. Notice: two months, the 36-volt hybrid battery can be permanently damaged. The 36-volt battery is located behind the rear seat, in the trunk. If the vehicle is stored for an extended period of time, drive the vehicle every two months for about half an hour to keep the 36-volt hybrid battery charged and in good working condition.


If the vehicle is not driven for over


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Ignoring these steps could result in costly


Notice: damage to your vehicle that would not be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage your vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt


battery with a negative ground system.


If the other vehicle’s system is not a 12-volt


Notice: system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle.


2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems.


Jump Starting If your battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely.


{CAUTION:


Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:


(cid:127) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:127) They contain gas that can explode


(cid:127) They contain enough electricity to


or ignite.


burn you.


If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.


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To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transmission in PARK (P) or a manual transmission in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake.


If you leave your radio or other accessories


Notice: on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and other accessories when jump starting your vehicle.


3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug


unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or the accessory power outlet. Turn off the radio and all lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save the radio!


4. Open the hoods and locate the batteries. Find the positive (+) and negative (−) terminal locations on each vehicle. Your vehicle’s positive (+) terminal is located under a red tethered cap on the battery. The negative (–) terminal is located under a black tethered cap on the battery. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for more information on location. Flip the caps up to access the positive (+) and negative (–) terminals.


{CAUTION:


An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.


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{CAUTION:


{CAUTION:


Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you don’t, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.


Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.


5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks.


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6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+)


terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.


7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. 8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.


9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable at


least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less.


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10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run


the engine for a while.


11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery.


If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service.


If the jumper cables are connected or


Notice: removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always connect and remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal.


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Jumper Cable Removal


A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or Remote


Negative (–) Terminal


B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and Remote


Negative (–) Terminals


C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal


To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the


vehicle that had the dead battery.


2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the


vehicle with the good battery.


3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the


vehicle with the good battery.


4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the


other vehicle.


5. Return the caps over the positive (+) and


negative (–) terminals to their original positions.


Headlamp Aiming Headlamp aim has been preset at the factory and should need no further adjustment. However, if your vehicle is damaged in a crash, the headlamp aim may be affected. Aim adjustment to the low-beam headlamps may be necessary if oncoming drivers flash their high-beam headlamps at you (for vertical aim). If the headlamps need to be re-aimed, it is recommended that you take the vehicle to your dealer/retailer for service.


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Bulb Replacement For the proper type of replacement bulbs, see Replacement Bulbs on page 5-44. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer/retailer.


Halogen Bulbs


{CAUTION:


Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.


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Taillamps, Turn Signal, Sidemarker, Stoplamps and Back-up Lamps


A. Turn Signal Lamp B. Stoplamp/Taillamp


C. Backup Lamp D. Sidemarker Lamp


If a stoplamp or a taillamp needs to be replaced, see your dealer/retailer.


To replace a sidemarker lamp, turn signal lamp, or a back-up lamp: 1. Open the trunk. See Trunk on page 2-10 for


more information.


2. Remove the convenience net, if the vehicle


has one.


3. Remove the wing nuts holding the trunk trim.


5. Remove the taillamp assembly. 6. Remove the wiring harness from the taillamp


assembly by lifting the release tab.


7. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise to remove it. 8. Pull the bulb from the socket. 9. Install a new bulb. 10. Reverse Steps 2 through 6 to reinstall the taillamp


assembly.


4. Remove the three wing nuts, which hold the


taillamp assembly, from inside the vehicle.


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3. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and pull


the bulb straight out of the socket.


4. Install the new bulb. 5. Reverse Steps 1 through 3 to reinstall the lamp


assembly.


Replacement Bulbs


Exterior Lamp


Bulb Number


Back-up Lamp


License Plate Lamp and Rear Sidemarker Lamp


Turn Signal Lamp


921


168


3156


For replacement bulbs not listed here, contact your dealer/retailer.


License Plate Lamp To replace the license plate lamp bulb:


1. Remove the two screws holding the license plate


lamp assembly to the fascia.


2. Turn and pull the license plate lamp forward


through the fascia opening.


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Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected for wear or cracking. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 for more information on wiper blade inspection. To remove the wiper blade: 1. Pull the windshield wiper arm connector


away from the windshield.


2. Push the release button. 3. Slide the blade forward. 4. Rotate the blade toward you and continue


to slide forward.


5. Install the new blade onto the arm connector


and make sure the grooved areas are fully set in the locked position.


For the proper type and size, see Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 6-13.


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CAUTION:


(Continued)


(cid:127) Underinflated tires pose the same


danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your vehicle’s tires are cold. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-52.


(cid:127) Overinflated tires are more likely to


be cut, punctured, or broken by a sudden impact — such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure.


(cid:127) Worn, old tires can cause accidents.


If the tire’s tread is badly worn, or if your vehicle’s tires have been damaged, replace them.


Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your vehicle Warranty booklet for details.


{CAUTION:


Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous.


(cid:127) Overloading your vehicle’s tires can cause overheating as a result of too much flexing. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-22.


CAUTION:


(Continued)


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Tire Sidewall Labeling Useful information about a tire is molded into the sidewall. The following illustration is an example of a typical P-Metric tire sidewall.


(A) Tire Size: The tire size code is a combination of letters and numbers used to define a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type, and service description. See the Tire Size illustration later in this section for more detail. (B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines. (C) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards. (D) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following the DOT code are the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture.


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(E) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (F) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction, and temperature resistance. For more information, see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-62. (G) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. For information on recommended tire pressure see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-52
and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-22.


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Tire Size The following illustration shows, an example of, a typical passenger car tire size.


(A) Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter P as the first character in the tire size means a passenger vehicle tire engineered to standards set by the U.S. Tire and Rim Association. (B) Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall. (C) Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is 75, as shown in item C, of the illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is 75 percent as high as it is wide.


(D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter R means radial ply construction; the letter D means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter B means belted-bias ply construction. (E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches. (F) Service Description: The service description indicates the load range and speed rating of a tire. The load index can range from 1 to 279. Speed ratings range from A to Z.


Tire Terminology and Definitions


Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa). Accessory Weight: This means the combined weight of optional accessories. Some examples of optional accessories are, automatic transmission, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air conditioning. Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire’s height to its width.


Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials. Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim. Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the plies are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. Cold Tire Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up heat from driving. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-52. Curb Weight: The weight of a motor vehicle with standard and optional equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil, and coolant, but without passengers and cargo. DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identification Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand, and date of production.


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GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-22. GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front axle. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-22. GAWR RR: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-22. Intended Outboard Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire, that must always face outward when mounted on a vehicle. Kilopascal (kPa): The metric unit for air pressure. Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: A tire used on light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles. Load Index: An assigned number ranging from 1 to 279 that corresponds to the load carrying capacity of a tire. Maximum Inflation Pressure: The maximum air pressure to which a cold tire can be inflated. The maximum air pressure is molded onto the sidewall. Maximum Load Rating: The load rating for a tire at the maximum permissible inflation pressure for that tire.


Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight: The sum of curb weight, accessory weight, vehicle capacity weight, and production options weight. Normal Occupant Weight: The number of occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-22. Occupant Distribution: Designated seating positions. Outward Facing Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that faces outward when mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears white lettering, or bears manufacturer, brand, and/or model name molding that is higher or deeper than the same moldings on the other sidewall of the tire. Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: A tire used on passenger cars and some light duty trucks and multipurpose vehicles. Recommended Inflation Pressure: Vehicle manufacturer’s recommended tire inflation pressure as shown on the tire placard. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-52 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-22.


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Radial Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. Rim: A metal support for a tire and upon which the tire beads are seated. Sidewall: The portion of a tire between the tread and the bead. Speed Rating: An alphanumeric code assigned to a tire indicating the maximum speed at which a tire can operate. Traction: The friction between the tire and the road surface. The amount of grip provided. Tread: The portion of a tire that comes into contact with the road. Treadwear Indicators: Narrow bands, sometimes called wear bars, that show across the tread of a tire when only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) of tread remains. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-59.


UTQGS (Uniform Tire Quality Grading Standards): A tire information system that provides consumers with ratings for a tire’s traction, temperature, and treadwear. Ratings are determined by tire manufacturers using government testing procedures. The ratings are molded into the sidewall of the tire. See Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-62. Vehicle Capacity Weight: The number of designated seating positions multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg) plus the rated cargo load. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-22. Vehicle Maximum Load on the Tire: Load on an individual tire due to curb weight, accessory weight, occupant weight, and cargo weight. Vehicle Placard: A label permanently attached to a vehicle showing the vehicle’s capacity weight and the original equipment tire size and recommended inflation pressure. See “Tire and Loading Information Label” under Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-22.


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Inflation - Tire Pressure Tires need the correct amount of air pressure to operate effectively. Notice: Do not let anyone tell you that under-inflation or over-inflation is all right. It is not. If your tires do not have enough air (under-inflation), you can get the following: (cid:127) Too much flexing (cid:127) Too much heat (cid:127) Tire overloading (cid:127) Premature or irregular wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Reduced fuel economy If your tires have too much air (over-inflation), you can get the following: (cid:127) Unusual wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Rough ride (cid:127) Needless damage from road hazards


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A vehicle specific Tire and Loading Information label is attached to your vehicle. This label shows your vehicle’s original equipment tires and the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they are cold. The recommended cold tire inflation pressure, shown on the label, is the minimum amount of air pressure needed to support your vehicle’s maximum load carrying capacity. For additional information regarding how much weight your vehicle can carry, and an example of the Tire and Loading Information label, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-22. How you load your vehicle affects vehicle handling and ride comfort. Never load your vehicle with more weight than it was designed to carry. When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You cannot tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they are under-inflated. Check the tire’s inflation pressure when the tires are cold. Cold means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km).


Remove the valve cap from the tire valve stem. Press the tire gage firmly onto the valve to get a pressure measurement. If the cold tire inflation pressure matches the recommended pressure on the Tire and Loading Information label, no further adjustment is necessary. If the inflation pressure is low, add air until you reach the recommended amount. If you overfill the tire, release air by pushing on the metal stem in the center of the tire valve. Re-check the tire pressure with the tire gage. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.


Tire Pressure Monitor System The Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) uses radio and sensor technology to check tire pressure levels. The TPMS sensors monitor the air pressure in your vehicle’s tires and transmit tire pressure readings to a receiver located in the vehicle.


Each tire, including the spare (if provided), should be checked monthly when cold and inflated to the inflation pressure recommended by the vehicle manufacturer on the vehicle placard or tire inflation pressure label. (If your vehicle has tires of a different size than the size indicated on the vehicle placard or tire inflation pressure label, you should determine the proper tire inflation pressure for those tires.) As an added safety feature, your vehicle has been equipped with a tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS) that illuminates a low tire pressure telltale when one or more of your tires is significantly under-inflated. Accordingly, when the low tire pressure telltale illuminates, you should stop and check your tires as soon as possible, and inflate them to the proper pressure. Driving on a significantly under-inflated tire causes the tire to overheat and can lead to tire failure. Under-inflation also reduces fuel efficiency and tire tread life, and may affect the vehicle’s handling and stopping ability. Please note that the TPMS is not a substitute for proper tire maintenance, and it is the driver’s responsibility to maintain correct tire pressure, even if under-inflation has not reached the level to trigger illumination of the TPMS low tire pressure telltale.


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Your vehicle has also been equipped with a TPMS malfunction indicator to indicate when the system is not operating properly. The TPMS malfunction indicator is combined with the low tire pressure telltale. When the system detects a malfunction, the telltale will flash for approximately one minute and then remain continuously illuminated. This sequence will continue upon subsequent vehicle start-ups as long as the malfunction exists. When the malfunction indicator is illuminated, the system may not be able to detect or signal low tire pressure as intended. TPMS malfunctions may occur for a variety of reasons, including the installation of replacement or alternate tires or wheels on the vehicle that prevent the TPMS from functioning properly. Always check the TPMS malfunction telltale after replacing one or more tires or wheels on your vehicle to ensure that the replacement or alternate tires and wheels allow the TPMS to continue to function properly. See Tire Pressure Monitor Operation on page 5-55, for additional information.


Federal Communications Commission (FCC) and Industry and Science Canada The Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) operates on a radio frequency and complies with Part 15 of the FCC Rules. Operation is subject to the following two conditions: 1. This device may not cause harmful interference. 2. This device must accept any interference received,


including interference that may cause undesired operation.


The Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) operates on a radio frequency and complies with RSS-210
of Industry and Science Canada. Operation is subject to the following two conditions: 1. This device may not cause interference. 2. This device must accept any interference received,


including interference that may cause undesired operation of the device.


Changes or modifications to this system by other than an authorized service facility could void authorization to use this equipment.


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Tire Pressure Monitor Operation The Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) is designed to warn the driver when a low tire pressure condition exists. TPMS sensors are mounted onto each tire and wheel assembly. The TPMS sensors monitor the air pressure in the vehicle’s tires and transmits the tire pressure readings to a receiver located in the vehicle.


When a low tire pressure condition is detected, the TPMS turns on the low tire pressure warning light located on the instrument panel cluster.


At the same time a message to check the pressure in a specific tire appears on the Driver Information Center (DIC) display. The low tire pressure warning light and the DIC warning message come on at each ignition cycle until the tires are inflated to the correct inflation pressure. Using the DIC, tire pressure levels can be viewed by the driver.


For additional information and details about the DIC operation and displays see DIC Operation and Displays on page 3-44 and DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-46. The low tire pressure warning light may come on in cool weather when the vehicle is first started, and then turn off as you start to drive. This could be an early indicator that the air pressure in the tire(s) are getting low and need to be inflated to the proper pressure. A Tire and Loading Information label shows the size of your vehicle’s original equipment tires and the correct inflation pressure for your vehicle’s tires when they are cold. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-22, for an example of the Tire and Loading Information label and its location on your vehicle. Also see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-52. Your vehicle’s TPMS system can warn you about a low tire pressure condition but it does not replace normal tire maintenance. See Tire Inspection and Rotation on page 5-58 and Tires on page 5-46. Notice: Using non-approved tire sealants could damage the Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) sensors. TPMS sensor damage caused by using an incorrect tire sealant is not covered by the vehicle warranty. Always use the GM approved tire sealant available through your dealer/retailer.


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TPMS Malfunction Light and Message The TPMS will not function properly if one or more of the TPMS sensors are missing or inoperable. When the system detects a malfunction, the low tire warning light flashes for about one minute and then stays on for the remainder of the ignition cycle. A DIC warning message is also displayed. The low tire warning light and DIC warning message come on at each ignition cycle until the problem is corrected. Some of the conditions that can cause the malfunction light and DIC message to come on are:


The TPMS sensor matching process was started but not completed or not completed successfully after rotating the vehicle’s tires. The DIC message and TPMS malfunction light should go off once the TPMS sensor matching process is performed successfully. See “TPMS Sensor Matching Process” later in this section.


(cid:127) One or more TPMS sensors are missing or damaged. The DIC message and the TPMS malfunction light should go off when the TPMS sensors are installed and the sensor matching process is performed successfully. See your dealer/retailer for service.


(cid:127) Replacement tires or wheels do not match your


vehicle’s original equipment tires or wheels. Tires and wheels other than those recommended for your vehicle could prevent the TPMS from functioning properly. See Buying New Tires on page 5-60.


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(cid:127) Operating electronic devices or being near facilities using radio wave frequencies similar to the TPMS could cause the TPMS sensors to malfunction.


If the TPMS is not functioning it cannot detect or signal a low tire condition. See your dealer/retailer for service if the TPMS malfunction light and DIC message comes on and stays on. TPMS Sensor Matching Process Each TPMS sensor has a unique identification code. Any time you replace one or more of the TPMS sensors or rotate the vehicle’s tires, the identification codes need to be matched to the new tire/wheel location. The sensors are matched, to the tire/wheel locations, in the following order: driver side front tire, passenger side front tire, passenger side rear tire, and driver side rear tire using a TPMS diagnostic tool. See your dealer/retailer for service. The TPMS sensors can also be matched to each tire/wheel position by increasing or decreasing the tire’s air pressure. When increasing the tire’s pressure, do not exceed the maximum inflation pressure indicated on the tire’s sidewall. To decrease the tire’s air-pressure use the pointed end of the valve cap, a pencil-style air pressure gage, or a key.


(cid:127) You have two minutes to match each tire and wheel position. If it takes longer than two minutes to match any tire and wheel position, the matching process stops and you need to start over. The TPMS matching process is outlined below: 1. Set the parking brake. 2. Turn the ignition switch to ON/RUN with the


engine off.


3. Press and hold the Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) transmitter’s LOCK and UNLOCK buttons, at the same time, for about five seconds to start the TPMS learn mode. The horn sounds twice indicating the TPMS receiver is ready and in learn mode.


4. Start with the driver side front tire. The driver side


front turn signal also comes on to indicate that corner’s sensor is ready to be learned.


5. Remove the valve cap from the tire’s valve stem.


Activate the TPMS sensor by increasing or decreasing the tire’s air pressure for about eight seconds. The horn chirp, can take up to 30 seconds to sound. It chirps one time and then all the turn signals flash one time to confirm the sensor identification code has been matched to the tire/wheel position.


6. The passenger side front turn signal comes on to indicate that corner sensor is ready to be learned. Proceed to the passenger side front tire and repeat the procedure in Step 5.


7. The passenger side rear turn signal comes on to indicate that corner sensor is ready to be learned. Proceed to the passenger side rear tire and repeat the procedure in Step 5.


8. The driver side rear turn signal comes on to


indicate that corner sensor is ready to be learned. Proceed to the driver side rear tire, and repeat the procedure in Step 5.


9. After hearing the single horn chirp for the driver side rear tire, two additional horn chirps sound to indicate the tire learning process is done. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK/OFF. If no tires are learned after entering the TPMS learn mode, or if communication with the receiver stops, or if the time limit has expired, turn the ignition switch to LOCK/OFF and start over beginning with Step 2. 10. Set all four tires to the recommended air pressure


level as indicated on the Tire and Loading Information label.


11. Put the valve caps back on the valve stems.


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Tire Inspection and Rotation We recommend that you regularly inspect your vehicle’s tires for signs of wear or damage. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-59
for more information. Tires should be rotated every 5,000 to 8,000 miles (8 000 to 13 000 km). See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4. The purpose of a regular tire rotation is to achieve a uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. This will ensure that your vehicle continues to perform most like it did when the tires were new. Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-59
and Wheel Replacement on page 5-64 for more information.


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When rotating the vehicle’s tires, always use the correct rotation pattern shown here. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the Tire and Loading Information label. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-52 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-22. Reset the Tire Pressure Monitor System. See Tire Pressure Monitor Operation on page 5-55. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” under Capacities and Specifications.


{CAUTION:


Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause a crash. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off.


When It Is Time for New Tires Various factors, such as maintenance, temperatures, driving speeds, vehicle loading, and road conditions influence when you need new tires.


One way to tell when it is time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining.


You need new tires if any of the following statements are true: (cid:127) You can see the indicators at three or more


places around the tire.


(cid:127) You can see cord or fabric showing through the


tire’s rubber. The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut, or snagged deep enough to show cord or fabric. The tire has a bump, bulge, or split. The tire has a puncture, cut, or other damage that cannot be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage.


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(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) The rubber in tires degrades over time, even if they are not being used. This is also true for the spare tire, if your vehicle has one. Multiple conditions affect how fast this aging takes place, including temperatures, loading conditions, and inflation pressure maintenance. With proper care and maintenance tires will typically wear out before they degrade due to age. If you are unsure about the need to replace your tires as they get older, consult the tire manufacturer for more information. Buying New Tires GM has developed and matched specific tires for your vehicle. The original equipment tires installed on your vehicle, when it was new, were designed to meet General Motors Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC spec) system rating. If you need replacement tires, GM strongly recommends that you get tires with the same TPC Spec rating. This way, your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give the same performance and vehicle safety, during normal use, as the original tires.


GM’s exclusive TPC Spec system considers over a dozen critical specifications that impact the overall performance of your vehicle, including brake system performance, ride and handling, traction control, and tire pressure monitoring performance. GM’s TPC Spec number is molded onto the tire’s sidewall near the tire size. If the tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC spec number will be followed by a MS, for mud and snow. See Tire Sidewall Labeling on page 5-47
for additional information. GM recommends replacing tires in sets of four. This is because uniform tread depth on all tires will help keep your vehicle performing most like it did when the tires were new. Replacing less than a full set of tires can affect the braking and handling performance of your vehicle. See Tire Inspection and Rotation on page 5-58
for information on proper tire rotation.


5-60


If you must replace your vehicle’s tires with those that do not have a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating, and construction type (radial and bias-belted tires) as your vehicle’s original tires. Vehicles that have a tire pressure monitoring system could give an inaccurate low-pressure warning if non-TPC Spec rated tires are installed on your vehicle. Non-TPC Spec rated tires may give a low-pressure warning that is higher or lower than the proper warning level you would get with TPC Spec rated tires. See Tire Pressure Monitor System on page 5-53. Your vehicle’s original equipment tires are listed on the Tire and Loading Information label. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-22, for more information about the Tire and Loading Information label and its location on your vehicle.


{CAUTION:


Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes, brands, or types (radial and bias-belted tires) the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes, brands, or types may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the correct size, brand, and type of tires on your vehicle’s wheels.


{CAUTION:


If you use bias-ply tires on your vehicle, the wheel rim flanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle.


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Different Size Tires and Wheels If you add wheels or tires that are a different size than your original equipment wheels and tires, this may affect the way your vehicle performs, including its braking, ride and handling characteristics, stability, and resistance to rollover. Additionally, if your vehicle has electronic systems such as, anti-lock brakes, traction control, and stability control, the performance of these systems can be affected.


{CAUTION:


If you add different sized wheels, your vehicle may not provide an acceptable level of performance and safety if tires not recommended for those wheels are selected. You may increase the chance that you will crash and suffer serious injury. Only use Saturn specific wheel and tire systems developed for your vehicle, and have them properly installed by a Saturn certified technician.


See Buying New Tires on page 5-60 and Accessories and Modifications on page 5-3 for additional information.


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Uniform Tire Quality Grading Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum section width. For example: Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA), which grades tires by treadwear, traction, and temperature performance. This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States. The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG) system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver, or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards.


Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1.5) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices, and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction – AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics.


Temperature – A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.


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Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The tires and wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. Adjustments to wheel alignment and tire balancing will not be necessary on a regular basis. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling to one side or the other, the alignment might need to be checked. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, the tires and wheels might need to be rebalanced. See your dealer/retailer for proper diagnosis.


Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked, or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your dealer/retailer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer/retailer will know the kind of wheel you need.


Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces.


{CAUTION:


Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts, or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts for replacement.


If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts, or wheel nuts, replace them only with new Saturn original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts for your vehicle.


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Notice: The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance, and tire clearance to the body and chassis.


{CAUTION:


Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause a crash. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off.


{CAUTION:


Never use oil or grease on studs or the threads of the wheel nuts. If you do, the wheel nuts might come loose and the wheel could fall off, causing a crash.


{CAUTION:


Incorrect wheel nuts or improperly tightened wheel nuts can cause the wheel to become loose and even come off. This could lead to a crash. Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts. If you have to replace them, be sure to get new Saturn original equipment wheel nuts.


Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead


Notice: to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque specification.


5-65


Used Replacement Wheels


Tire Chains


{CAUTION:


{CAUTION:


Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is dangerous. You cannot know how it has been used or how far it has been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause a crash. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new Saturn original equipment wheel.


Do not use tire chains. There is not enough clearance. Tire chains used on a vehicle without the proper amount of clearance can cause damage to the brakes, suspension or other vehicle parts. The area damaged by the tire chains could cause you to lose control of your vehicle and you or others may be injured in a crash. Use another type of traction device only if its manufacturer recommends it for use on your vehicle and tire size combination and road conditions. Follow that manufacturer’s instructions. To help avoid damage to your vehicle, drive slowly, readjust or remove the device if it is contacting your vehicle, and do not spin your vehicle’s wheels. If you do find traction devices that will fit, install them on the front tires.


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If a Tire Goes Flat Your vehicle has a tire sealant and compressor kit. See Tire Sealant and Compressor Kit on page 5-68. There is no spare tire, no tire changing equipment, and no place to store a tire. It is unusual for a tire to blow out while you are driving, especially if you maintain your tires properly. See Tires on page 5-46. If air goes out of a tire, it is much more likely to leak out slowly. But, if you should ever have a blow out, here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane. A rear blow out, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you would use in a skid. In any rear blow out, remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop, well off the road if possible.


If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place and stopping. Then do this: 1. Turn on the hazard warning flashers. See Hazard


Warning Flashers on page 3-6.


2. Park your vehicle. Set the parking brake firmly and


put the shift lever in PARK (P). See Shifting Into PARK (P) on page 2-29.


3. Turn off the engine. 4. Inspect the flat tire. If the tire has been separated from the wheel, has damaged sidewalls, or has a puncture larger than a 1⁄4 inch (6 mm), the tire is too severely damaged for the tire sealant and compressor kit to be effective. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-7. If the tire has a puncture less than a 1⁄4 inch (6 mm) in the tread area of the tire, see Tire Sealant and Compressor Kit on page 5-68.


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Tire Sealant and Compressor Kit Your vehicle has a tire sealant and compressor kit capable of sealing a small puncture up to 1⁄4 inch (6 mm) in the tread area of the tire. The kit inflates the tire with liquid sealant and air. The tire sealant and compressor kit can also be used to inflate an underinflated tire. After the tire is inflated to the recommended pressure, see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-52, the vehicle must be driven for five miles, the tire pressure must be rechecked and adjusted as needed. See Using the Tire Sealant and Compressor Kit later in this section. Be sure to read and follow all of the tire sealant and compressor kit instructions. The kit includes:


A. Air Compressor B. Tire Sealant Canister C. Air Compressor Accessory Plug


D. On/Off Switch


E. Air Pressure Gage F. Air Compressor


Inflator Hose


G. Sealant Filling Hose


After temporarily repairing a tire using the tire sealant and compressor kit, take your vehicle to an authorized dealer/retailer as soon as possible. If the sealant is removed within 100 miles (161 kilometers) of driving, then it is easier to clean from the tire and you are less likely to require a replacement tire.


5-68


Accessing the Tire Sealant and Compressor Kit To access the tire sealant and compressor kit: 1. Open the trunk. See Trunk on page 2-10 for


more information.


2. Remove the tire sealant and compressor kit by


turning the wing nut counterclockwise.


3. Remove the sealant and compressor kit from


its foam container.


Tire Sealant Read and follow the safe handling instructions on the sealant canister. The sealant can temporarily seal a small puncture up to 1⁄4 inch (6 mm) in the tread area of the tire. The sealant cannot seal sidewall damage, large punctures, or a wheel that has unseated from the wheel. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-7 if you need assistance. The sealant can only be used to seal one tire. After usage, the sealant canister and sealant filling hose assembly must be replaced at a dealer/retailer. See Removal and Installation of Sealant Canister later in this section. Check the tire sealant expiration date on the sealant canister, if it has expired, see your dealer/retailer for a replacement.


5-69


Using the Tire Sealant and Compressor Kit to Temporarily Seal a Punctured Tire Follow these directions closely for correct sealant usage. 1. Place the sealant and compressor kit on the ground


and unwrap the sealant filling hose from the compressor.


2. Remove the air compressor accessory plug from


the unit. To do this, pull the top portion of the wrapped cord out first, then the bottom, and then unsnap the plug. Do not insert the plug into an accessory outlet yet.


3. Remove the valve stem or tire pressure monitoring


sensor cap from the flat tire by turning it counterclockwise. If an object, such as a nail, has penetrated the tire, do not remove it.


5-70


4. Attach the sealant filling hose (A) onto the tire valve


stem. Turn it clockwise until it is tight. Make sure the sealant and compressor kit on/off switch (B) is in the O (off) position.


5. Plug the air compressor accessory plug (C) into


an accessory power outlet in the vehicle. See Accessory Power Outlet(s) on page 3-18
for more information. Do not slam door or close window on the compressor accessory plug.


{CAUTION:


Idling the engine in a closed-in place or with the climate control system off can cause deadly carbon monoxide (CO). See Engine Exhaust on page 2-32.


6. Start the vehicle. See Starting the Engine


(Automatic Engine Start/Stop) on page 2-21
for more information. The vehicle must be running while using the air compressor.


{CAUTION:


Inflating something too much can make it explode, and you or others could be injured. Be sure to read the inflator instructions, and inflate the tire to its recommended pressure. Do not exceed 36 psi (248 kPa).


7. Push the On/Off kit switch to the I (on) position. The sealant and compressor kit injects sealant and air into the tire. Sealant could leak from the puncture hole until the vehicle is driven and the hole has sealed. The pressure gage will initially show a high pressure while the compressor injects the sealant into the tire. Once the sealant is completely dispersed into the tire, the pressure will quickly dropped and start to rise again as the tire inflates with air.


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8. Inflate the tire to the recommended inflation


pressure, found on the Tire and Loading Information label located on the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar) below the vehicle’s door latch, using the air pressure gage on the top of the unit. The pressure gage reads high while the compressor is running. Turn the compressor off to get an accurate pressure reading.


Notice: If the recommended pressure cannot be reached after 15 minutes, the vehicle should not be driven. The tire is too severely damaged and cannot be inflated or sealed with the tire sealant and compressor kit. Remove the air compressor accessory plug from the accessory power outlet and unscrew the sealant filling hose from the tire valve or tire pressure monitoring sensor valve. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-7. 9. Push the On/Off switch to the O (off) position


once the correct tire pressure is obtained.


10. The tire is not sealed and will continue to leak air until the vehicle is driven and the sealant is distributed in the tire. Steps 11 through 17 must be done right after Step 10.


11. Unplug the air compressor accessory plug from


the accessory power outlet in the vehicle.


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12. Disconnect the sealant filling hose from the tire valve stem, by turning it counterclockwise, and replace the tire valve stem cap. Be careful when handling the tire inflator components as they could be hot after usage.


13. Wrap the sealant filling hose around the air


compressor channel to stow it in its original location. 14. Stow the air compressor accessory plug back in the air compressor. To do this, wrap the air compressor accessory plug, snap in the plug, and then push in the bottom and then the top of the wrapped air compressor accessory plug.


15. If the flat tire was


able to inflate to the recommended inflation pressure, remove the maximum speed label from the sealant canister.


Place it in a highly visible location such as the inside of the upper left corner of the windshield or to the face of the radio/clock.


The maximum speed label reminds you to drive cautiously and not to exceed 55 mph (90 km/h) until you have the damaged tire inspected and repaired.


{CAUTION:


16. Return the equipment to the proper storage location in the trunk of your vehicle. Turn the wing nut clockwise to secure the tire sealant and compressor kit.


Storing the tire sealant and compressor kit or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store the tire sealant and compressor kit in the proper place.


17. Immediately drive the vehicle 5 miles (8 km) to


distribute the sealant evenly in the tire. Stop at a safe location and check the tire pressure, refer to Steps 1
through 8 under “Using the Air Compressor without Sealant” next in this section.


18. If the tire pressure has fallen more then


10 psi (68 kPa), below the recommended inflation pressure, stop driving the vehicle. The tire is too severely damaged and the tire sealant and compressor cannot seal the tire. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-7. If the tire pressure has not dropped more than 10 psi (68 kPa) from the recommended inflation pressure, inflate the tire back up to the recommended inflation pressure.


5-73


19. Wipe off any sealant from the wheel, tire or


vehicle with a rag.


20. Dispose of the sealant canister at a local dealer/retailer or in accordance with local state codes and practices. After using the sealant canister, replace it with a new canister from your dealer/retailer.


21. After temporarily sealing a tire with the tire sealant


and compressor kit, take your vehicle to your dealer/retailer to have the tire inspected and repaired.


Using the Air Compressor without Sealant to Inflate an Underinflated Tire (Not Punctured) To use the air compressor to inflate a tire with air only and not sealant: 1. Remove the air compressor inflating hose connector


from the bottom of the air compressor.


5-74


2. Unlock the air compressor hose from the sealant


canister by pulling up on the lever.


3. Pull the air compressor inflator hose from the


sealant canister.


4. Push the air compressor inflator hose onto the tire


valve stem and push the lever down to secure in place.


5. Plug the air compressor accessory plug into an


accessory power outlet in the vehicle. See Accessory Power Outlet(s) on page 3-18 for more information.


{CAUTION:


Idling the engine in a closed-in place or with the climate control system off can cause deadly carbon monoxide (CO). See Engine Exhaust on page 2-32.


6. Start the vehicle. See Starting the Engine


(Automatic Engine Start/Stop) on page 2-21
for more information. The vehicle must be running while using the air compressor.


{CAUTION:


Inflating something too much can make it explode, and you or others could be injured. Be sure to read the inflator instructions, and inflate the tire to its recommended pressure. Do not exceed 36 psi (248 kPa).


8. Inflate the tire up to the recommended inflation pressure using the air pressure gage on the top of the unit.


9. Turn off the air compressor by moving the switch


to the O (off) position. The pressure gage reads high while the compressor is running. Turn the compressor off to get an accurate reading. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-52 for more information.


10. Disconnect the compressor inflator hose and


wrap the hose in the bottom of the sealant and compressor kit.


{CAUTION:


Storing the tire sealant and compressor kit or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store the tire sealant and compressor kit in the proper place.


7. Push the sealant and compressor kit switch to


the I (on) position.


11. Place the equipment in the original location in


the trunk of your vehicle.


5-75


Removal and Installation of the Sealant Canister To remove the sealant canister:


4. Turn the sealant canister so the inflator filling hose


is aligned with the slot in the compressor.


5. Lift the sealant canister from the compressor and


replace with a new sealant canister. See your dealer/retailer for more information.


1. Unlock the air compressor inflator hose from the


sealant canister by pulling the lever up.


2. Disconnect the air compressor inflator hose from


the sealant canister.


3. Unwrap the sealant filling hose from the


compressor.


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To install a new sealant canister: 1. Align the sealant filling hose with the slot in the


air compressor.


2. Push the sealant canister down and turn it


clockwise.


3. Wrap the sealant filling hose around the air


compressor channel to stow it in its original location.


4. Push the air compressor inflator hose onto the sealant canister inlet and push the lever down.


Appearance Care


Interior Cleaning Your vehicle’s interior will continue to look its best if it is cleaned often. Although not always visible, dust and dirt can accumulate on your upholstery. Dirt can damage carpet, fabric, leather, and plastic surfaces. Regular vacuuming is recommended to remove particles from your upholstery. It is important to keep your upholstery from becoming and remaining heavily soiled. Soils should be removed as quickly as possible. Your vehicle’s interior may experience extremes of heat that could cause stains to set rapidly.


Lighter colored interiors may require more frequent cleaning. Use care because newspapers and garments that transfer color to your home furnishings may also transfer color to your vehicle’s interior. When cleaning your vehicle’s interior, only use cleaners specifically designed for the surfaces being cleaned. Permanent damage may result from using cleaners on surfaces for which they were not intended. Use glass cleaner only on glass. Remove any accidental over-spray from other surfaces immediately. To prevent over-spray, apply cleaner directly to the cleaning cloth. Notice: glass surfaces on your vehicle, you could scratch the glass and/or cause damage to the rear window defogger. When cleaning the glass on your vehicle, use only a soft cloth and glass cleaner. Many cleaners contain solvents that may become concentrated in your vehicle’s breathing space. Before using cleaners, read and adhere to all safety instructions on the label. While cleaning your vehicle’s interior, maintain adequate ventilation by opening your vehicle’s doors and windows. Dust may be removed from small buttons and knobs using a small brush with soft bristles.


If you use abrasive cleaners when cleaning


5-77


Your dealer/retailer has a product for cleaning your vehicle’s glass. Should it become necessary, you can also obtain a product from your dealer/retailer to remove odors from your vehicle’s upholstery. Do not clean your vehicle using the following cleaners or techniques: (cid:127) Never use a knife or any other sharp object to


remove a soil from any interior surface.


(cid:127) Never use a stiff brush. It can cause damage to


your vehicle’s interior surfaces.


(cid:127) Never apply heavy pressure or rub aggressively


with a cleaning cloth. Use of heavy pressure can damage your interior and does not improve the effectiveness of soil removal.


(cid:127) Use only mild, neutral-pH soaps. Avoid laundry


detergents or dishwashing soaps with degreasers. Using too much soap will leave a residue that leaves streaks and attracts dirt. For liquid cleaners, about 20 drops per gallon (3.78 L) of water is a good guide.


(cid:127) Do not heavily saturate your upholstery while


cleaning.


(cid:127) Damage to your vehicle’s interior may result from the use of many organic solvents such as naptha, alcohol, etc.


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Fabric/Carpet Use a vacuum cleaner with a soft brush attachment frequently to remove dust and loose dirt. A canister vacuum with a beater bar in the nozzle may only be used on floor carpet and carpeted floor mats. For soils, always try to remove them first with plain water or club soda. Before cleaning, gently remove as much of the soil as possible using one of the following techniques:


For liquids: gently blot the remaining soil with a paper towel. Allow the soil to absorb into the paper towel until no more can be removed. For solid dry soils: remove as much as possible and then vacuum.


To clean, use the following instructions: 1. Saturate a lint-free, clean white cloth with water or


club soda.


2. Wring the cloth to remove excess moisture. 3. Start on the outside edge of the soil and gently rub toward the center. Continue cleaning, using a clean area of the cloth each time it becomes soiled. 4. Continue to gently rub the soiled area until the


cleaning cloth remains clean.


5. If the soil is not completely removed, use a mild


soap solution and repeat the cleaning process that was used with plain water.


(cid:127) (cid:127) If any of the soil remains, a commercial fabric cleaner or spot lifter may be necessary. When a commercial upholstery cleaner or spot lifter is to be used, test a small hidden area for colorfastness first. If the locally cleaned area gives any impression that a ring formation may result, clean the entire surface. After the cleaning process has been completed, a paper towel can be used to blot excess moisture from the fabric or carpet.


Instrument Panel, Vinyl, and Other Plastic Surfaces A soft cloth dampened with water may be used to remove dust. If a more thorough cleaning is necessary, a clean soft cloth dampened with a mild soap solution can be used to gently remove dust and dirt. Never use spot lifters or removers on plastic surfaces. Many commercial cleaners and coatings that are sold to preserve and protect soft plastic surfaces may permanently change the appearance and feel of your interior and are not recommended. Do not use silicone or wax-based products, or those containing organic solvents to clean your vehicle’s interior because they can alter the appearance by increasing the gloss in a non-uniform manner.


Some commercial products may increase gloss on your instrument panel. The increase in gloss may cause annoying reflections in the windshield and even make it difficult to see through the windshield under certain conditions.


Care of Safety Belts Keep belts clean and dry.


{CAUTION:


Do not bleach or dye safety belts. If you do, it may severely weaken them. In a crash, they might not be able to provide adequate protection. Clean safety belts only with mild soap and lukewarm water.


5-79


Weatherstrips Silicone grease on weatherstrips will make them last longer, seal better, and not stick or squeak. Apply silicone grease with a clean cloth. During very cold, damp weather frequent application may be required. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12.


Washing Your Vehicle The best way to preserve your vehicle’s finish is to keep it clean by washing it often. Notice: Certain cleaners contain chemicals that can damage the emblems or nameplates on your vehicle. Check the cleaning product label. If it states that it should not be used on plastic parts, do not use it on your vehicle or damage may occur and it would not be covered by the warranty. Do not wash the vehicle in direct sunlight. Use a car washing soap. Do not use cleaning agents that are petroleum based or that contain acid or abrasives, as they can damage the paint, metal or plastic on your vehicle. Approved cleaning products can be obtained


from your dealer/retailer. See Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials on page 5-84. Follow all manufacturers’ directions regarding correct product usage, necessary safety precautions and appropriate disposal of any vehicle care product. Rinse the vehicle well, before washing and after to remove all cleaning agents completely. If they are allowed to dry on the surface, they could stain. Dry the finish with a soft, clean chamois or an all-cotton towel to avoid surface scratches and water spotting High pressure car washes may cause water to enter the vehicle. Avoid using high pressure washes closer than 12 inches (30 cm) to the surface of the vehicle. Use of power washers exceeding 1,200 psi (8 274 kPa) can result in damage or removal of paint and decals.


Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses Use only lukewarm or cold water, a soft cloth and a car washing soap to clean exterior lamps and lenses. Follow instructions under Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-80.


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Finish Care Occasional waxing or mild polishing of your vehicle by hand may be necessary to remove residue from the paint finish. You can get approved cleaning products from your dealer/retailer. See Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials on page 5-84. If your vehicle has a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish, the clearcoat gives more depth and gloss to the colored basecoat. Always use waxes and polishes that are non-abrasive and made for a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish. Notice: Machine compounding or aggressive polishing on a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish may damage it. Use only non-abrasive waxes and polishes that are made for a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish on your vehicle. Foreign materials such as calcium chloride and other salts, ice melting agents, road oil and tar, tree sap, bird droppings, chemicals from industrial chimneys, etc., can damage your vehicle’s finish if they remain on painted surfaces. Wash the vehicle as soon as possible. If necessary, use non-abrasive cleaners that are marked safe for painted surfaces to remove foreign matter.


Exterior painted surfaces are subject to aging, weather and chemical fallout that can take their toll over a period of years. You can help to keep the paint finish looking new by keeping your vehicle garaged or covered whenever possible. Protecting Exterior Bright Metal Parts Bright metal parts should be cleaned regularly to keep their luster. Washing with water is all that is usually needed. However, you may use chrome polish on chrome or stainless steel trim, if necessary. Use special care with aluminum trim. To avoid damaging protective trim, never use auto or chrome polish, steam or caustic soap to clean aluminum. A coating of wax, rubbed to high polish, is recommended for all bright metal parts.


Windshield and Wiper Blades Clean the outside of the windshield with glass cleaner. Clean the rubber blades using a lint free cloth or paper towel soaked with windshield washer fluid or a mild detergent. Wash the windshield thoroughly when cleaning the blades. Bugs, road grime, sap, and a buildup of vehicle wash/wax treatments may cause wiper streaking. Replace the wiper blades if they are worn or damaged.


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Wipers can be damaged by: (cid:127) Extreme dusty conditions (cid:127) Sand and salt (cid:127) Heat and sun (cid:127) Snow and ice, without proper removal


Aluminum Wheels Notice: Chrome wheels and other chrome trim may be damaged if you do not wash your vehicle after driving on roads that have been sprayed with magnesium, calcium or sodium chloride. These chlorides are used on roads for conditions such as ice and dust. Always wash your vehicle’s chrome with soap and water after exposure. Notice: abrasive polishes, cleaners, brushes, or cleaners that contain acid on aluminum or chrome-plated wheels, you could damage the surface of the wheel(s). The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Use only approved cleaners on aluminum or chrome-plated wheels.


If you use strong soaps, chemicals,


Keep the wheels clean using a soft clean cloth with mild soap and water. Rinse with clean water. After rinsing thoroughly, dry with a soft clean towel. A wax may then be applied. Notice: Using chrome polish on aluminum wheels could damage the wheels. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Use chrome polish on chrome wheels only. The surface of these wheels is similar to the painted surface of the vehicle. Do not use strong soaps, chemicals, abrasive polishes, abrasive cleaners, cleaners with acid, or abrasive cleaning brushes on them because the surface could be damaged. Do not use chrome polish on aluminum wheels. Notice: automatic car wash that has silicone carbide tire cleaning brushes, you could damage the aluminum or chrome-plated wheels. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Never drive a vehicle equipped with aluminum or chrome-plated wheels through an automatic car wash that uses silicone carbide tire cleaning brushes.


If you drive your vehicle through an


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Tires To clean the tires, use a stiff brush with tire cleaner. Notice: Using petroleum-based tire dressing products on your vehicle may damage the paint finish and/or tires. When applying a tire dressing, always wipe off any overspray from all painted surfaces on your vehicle.


Sheet Metal Damage If the vehicle is damaged and requires sheet metal repair or replacement, make sure the body repair shop applies anti-corrosion material to parts repaired or replaced to restore corrosion protection. Original manufacturer replacement parts will provide the corrosion protection while maintaining the warranty.


Finish Damage Any stone chips, fractures or deep scratches in the finish should be repaired right away. Bare metal will corrode quickly and may develop into major repair expense. Minor chips and scratches can be repaired with touch-up materials available from your dealer/retailer. Larger areas of finish damage can be corrected in your dealer’s/retailer’s body and paint shop.


Underbody Maintenance Chemicals used for ice and snow removal and dust control can collect on the underbody. If these are not removed, corrosion and rust can develop on the underbody parts such as fuel lines, frame, floor pan, and exhaust system even though they have corrosion protection. At least every spring, flush these materials from the underbody with plain water. Clean any areas where mud and debris can collect. Dirt packed in close areas of the frame should be loosened before being flushed. Your dealer/retailer or an underbody car washing system can do this for you.


Chemical Paint Spotting Some weather and atmospheric conditions can create a chemical fallout. Airborne pollutants can fall upon and attack painted surfaces on the vehicle. This damage can take two forms: blotchy, ring-shaped discolorations, and small, irregular dark spots etched into the paint surface. Although no defect in the paint job causes this, we will repair, at no charge to the owner, the surfaces of new vehicles damaged by this fallout condition within 12 months or 12,000 miles (20 000 km) of purchase, whichever occurs first.


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Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials


Description


Usage


Description


Usage


Swirl Remover Polish


Interior and exterior polishing cloth.


Removes tar, road oil, and asphalt.


Use on chrome or stainless steel.


Removes soil and black marks from whitewalls.


Cleans vinyl.


Removes dirt, grime, smoke, and fingerprints.


Removes dirt and grime from chrome wheels and wire wheel covers.


Removes dust, fingerprints, and surface contaminants. Spray on wipe off.


Cleaner Wax


Foaming Tire Shine Low Gloss


Wash Wax Concentrate


Spot Lifter


Odor Eliminator


Polishing Cloth Wax-Treated


Tar and Road Oil Remover


Chrome Cleaner and Polish


White Sidewall Tire Cleaner


Vinyl Cleaner


Glass Cleaner


Chrome and Wire Wheel Cleaner


Finish Enhancer


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Removes swirl marks, fine scratches, and other light surface contamination.


Removes light scratches and protects finish.


Cleans, shines, and protects tires. No wiping necessary.


Medium foaming shampoo. Cleans and lightly waxes. Biodegradable and phosphate free.


Removes spots and stains from carpets, vinyl, and cloth upholstery.


Odorless spray odor eliminator used on fabrics, vinyl, leather, and carpet.


Vehicle Identification


Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)


This is the legal identifier for your vehicle. It appears on a plate in the front corner of the instrument panel, on the driver side. You can see it if you look through the windshield from outside your vehicle. The VIN also appears on the Vehicle Certification and Service Parts labels and the certificates of title and registration.


Engine Identification The eighth character in the VIN is the engine code. This code helps you identify your vehicle’s engine, specifications, and replacement parts. See Capacities and Specifications on page 5-95 for your vehicle’s engine code.


Service Parts Identification Label This label is on the inside of the glove box. It is very helpful if you ever need to order parts. The label has the following information: (cid:127) Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) (cid:127) Model designation (cid:127) Paint information (cid:127) Production options and special equipment Do not remove this label from the vehicle.


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Electrical System


Add-On Electrical Equipment Notice: Do not add anything electrical to your vehicle unless you check with your dealer/retailer first. Some electrical equipment can damage your vehicle and the damage would not be covered by your warranty. Some add-on electrical equipment can keep other components from working as they should. Add-on equipment can drain your vehicle’s battery, even if your vehicle is not operating. Your vehicle has an airbag system. Before attempting to add anything electrical to your vehicle, see Servicing Your Airbag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-68.


Windshield Wiper Fuses The windshield wiper motor is protected by an internal circuit breaker and a fuse. If the motor overheats due to heavy snow, etc., the wiper will stop until the motor cools. If the overload is caused by some electrical problem, have it fixed.


Power Windows and Other Power Options Fuses in the fuse block protect the power windows. When the current load is too heavy, the fuse opens protecting the circuit until the problem is fixed.


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Instrument Panel Fuse Block


Fuses The wiring circuits in your vehicle are protected from short circuits by a combination of fuses, circuit breakers and fusible links. This greatly reduces the chance of damage caused by electrical problems. Look at the silver-colored band inside the fuse. If the band is broken or melted, replace the fuse. Be sure to replace a bad fuse with a new one of the identical size and rating. There are three fuse blocks in your vehicle: one in the center of the instrument panel, one in the engine compartment and one in the trunk. There is a fuse puller located on the instrument panel fuse block. It can be used to easily remove fuses from the fuse block.


The instrument panel fuse block is located on the passenger side of the vehicle, on the lower portion of the instrument panel near the floor. Remove the panel cover to access the fuse block, then remove the fuse block cover to access the fuses. Your vehicle might not have all the fuses and features listed.


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Usage


Power Mirrors


Not Used


Fuses


Usage


RUN/CRANK


HVAC BLOWER HIGH


Cruise Control Switch, Passenger Airbag Status Indicator Heating Ventilation Air Conditioning Blower - High Speed Relay


Fuses


POWER MIRRORS NOT INSTALLED


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Fuses CLUSTER/ THEFT ONSTAR NOT INSTALLED AIRBAG (IGN)


HVAC CTRL (BATT)


PEDAL WIPER SW IGN SENSOR STRG WHL ILLUM NOT INSTALLED RADIO INTERIOR LIGHTS REAR WIPER POWER WINDOWS HVAC CTRL (IGN) HVAC BLOWER


Usage


Instrument Panel Cluster, Theft Deterrent System OnStar®


Not Used


Airbag (Ignition) Heating Ventilation Air Conditioning Control Diagnostic Link Connector (Battery) Adjustable Pedals Windshield Wiper/Washer Switch Ignition Switch


Steering Wheel Illumination


Not Used


Audio System


Interior Lamps


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