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ground, always set the parking brake and move the shift lever to PARK (P).
Follow the proper steps to be sure your vehicle will not move. See Shifting Into Park on page 8-11.
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Driving and Operating
Driving Your Vehicle Defensive Driving Defensive driving means “always expect the unexpected.” The first step in driving defensively is to wear your safety belt, see Safety Belts on page 1-8.
CAUTION (Continued)
Driver distraction can cause collisions resulting in injury or possible death. These simple defensive driving techniques could save your life.
{ CAUTION
Drunk Driving
Assume that other road users (pedestrians, bicyclists, and other drivers) are going to be careless and make mistakes. Anticipate what they might do and be ready. In addition: (cid:129) Allow enough following
distance between you and the driver in front of you.
(cid:129) Focus on the task of driving. (Continued)
{ CAUTION
Drinking and then driving is very dangerous. Your reflexes, perceptions, attentiveness, and judgment can be affected by even a small amount of alcohol. You can have a serious — or even fatal — collision if you drive after drinking. Do not drink and drive or ride with a driver who has been drinking. Ride home in a cab; or if you are with a group, designate a driver who will not drink.
Death and injury associated with drinking and driving is a global tragedy. Alcohol affects four things that anyone needs to drive a vehicle: judgment, muscular coordination, vision, and attentiveness. Police records show that almost 40 percent of all motor vehicle-related deaths involve alcohol. In most cases, these deaths are the result of someone who was drinking and driving. In recent years, more than 17,000 annual motor vehicle-related deaths have been associated with the use of alcohol, with about 250,000 people injured. For persons under 21, it is against the law in every U.S. state to drink alcohol. There are good medical, psychological, and developmental reasons for these laws. The obvious way to eliminate the leading highway safety problem is for people never to drink alcohol and then drive.
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Medical research shows that alcohol in a person’s system can make crash injuries worse, especially injuries to the brain, spinal cord, or heart. This means that when anyone who has been drinking — driver or passenger — is in a crash, that person’s chance of being killed or permanently disabled is higher than if the person had not been drinking.
Control of a Vehicle The following three systems help to control your vehicle while driving — brakes, steering, and accelerator. At times, as when driving on snow or ice, it is easy to ask more of those control systems than the tires and road can provide. Meaning, you can lose control of your vehicle. Adding non-dealer/non-retailer accessories can affect your vehicle’s performance. See Accessories and Modifications on page 9-3.
Braking See Brake System Warning Light on page 4-17. Braking action involves perception time and reaction time. First, you have to decide to push on the brake pedal. That is perception time. Then you have to bring up your foot and do it. That is reaction time. Average reaction time is about three-fourths of a second. But that is only an average. It might be less with one driver and as long as two or three seconds or more with another. Age, physical condition, alertness, coordination, and eyesight all play a part. So do alcohol, drugs, and frustration. But even in three-fourths of a second, a vehicle moving at 60 mph (100 km/h) travels 66 feet (20 m). That could be a lot of distance in an emergency, so keeping enough space between your vehicle and others is important.
And, of course, actual stopping distances vary greatly with the surface of the road, whether it is pavement or gravel; the condition of the road, whether it is wet, dry, or icy; tire tread; the condition of the brakes; the weight of the vehicle; and the amount of brake force applied. Avoid needless heavy braking. Some people drive in spurts — heavy acceleration followed by heavy braking — rather than keeping pace with traffic. This is a mistake. The brakes might not have time to cool between hard stops. The brakes will wear out much faster if you do a lot of heavy braking. If you keep pace with the traffic and allow realistic following distances, you will eliminate a lot of unnecessary braking. That means better braking and longer brake life.
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If your vehicle’s engine ever stops while you are driving, brake normally but do not pump the brakes. If you do, the pedal could get harder to push down. If the engine stops, you will still have some power brake assist. But you will use it when you brake. Once the power assist is used up, it can take longer to stop and the brake pedal will be harder to push. Adding non-dealer/non-retailer accessories can affect your vehicle’s performance. See Accessories and Modifications on page 9-3.
Antilock Brake System (ABS) Your vehicle has the Antilock Brake System (ABS), an advanced electronic braking system that will help prevent a braking skid. When you start the engine and begin to drive away, ABS will check itself. You might hear a momentary motor or clicking noise while this test is going on, and you might even notice that the brake pedal moves a little. This is normal.
If there is a problem with ABS, this warning light will stay on. See Antilock Brake System (ABS) Warning Light on page 4-18.
Let us say the road is wet and you are driving safely. Suddenly, an animal jumps out in front of you. You slam on the brakes and continue braking. Here is what happens with ABS: A computer senses that wheels are slowing down. If one of the wheels is about to stop rolling, the computer will separately work the brakes at each wheel. ABS can change the brake pressure faster than any driver could. The computer is programmed to make the most of available tire and road conditions. This can help you steer around the obstacle while braking hard. As you brake, the computer keeps receiving updates on wheel speed and controls braking pressure accordingly.
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Remember: ABS does not change the time you need to get your foot up to the brake pedal or always decrease stopping distance. If you get too close to the vehicle in front of you, you will not have time to apply the brakes if that vehicle suddenly slows or stops. Always leave enough room up ahead to stop, even though you have ABS.
Using ABS Do not pump the brakes. Just hold the brake pedal down firmly and let antilock work for you. You might hear the antilock pump or motor operate, and feel the brake pedal pulsate, but this is normal.
Braking in Emergencies With ABS, you can steer and brake at the same time. In many emergencies, steering can help you more than even the very best braking.
StabiliTrak® System Your vehicle may have StabiliTrak which combines antilock brake, traction and stability control systems and helps the driver maintain directional control of the vehicle in most driving conditions. When you first start your vehicle and begin to drive away, the system performs several diagnostic checks to ensure there are no problems. You may hear or feel the system working. This is normal and does not mean there is a problem with your vehicle. The system should initialize before the vehicle reaches 20 mph (32 km/h). The system monitors vehicle movements, and helps the driver maintain control of the vehicle in most driving situations. When the vehicle’s stability is affected the engine output is reduced, and the brakes are applied to individual wheels.
When you turn the ignition on, this light on the instrument panel cluster will come on for a few seconds, then go out when the system is ready. You may also feel or hear the system working; this is normal. StabiliTrak is automatically enabled whenever you start your vehicle. To assist the driver with vehicle directional control, especially in slippery road conditions, you should always leave the system on. But, you can turn it off if you ever need to.
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It is recommended to leave the system on for normal driving conditions, but it may be necessary to turn the system off if your vehicle is stuck in sand, mud, ice or snow, and you want to “rock” your vehicle to attempt to free it. It may also be necessary to turn off the system when driving in extreme off-road conditions where high wheel spin is required. See If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand, Mud, Ice, or Snow on page 8-29. StabiliTrak may also turn off automatically if it determines that a problem exists with the system. The light on the instrument panel cluster will be on solid to warn the driver that StabiliTrak is disabled and requires service. If the problem does not clear after restarting the vehicle, you should see your dealer/retailer for service.
Steering If the engine stalls while you are driving, the power steering assist system should continue to operate until you are able to stop the vehicle. If you lose power steering assist because the power steering system is not functioning, you can steer, but it will take more effort. If you turn the steering wheel in either direction several times until it stops, or hold the steering wheel in the stopped position for an extended amount of time, you may notice a reduced amount of power steering assist. The normal amount of power steering assist should return shortly after a few normal steering movements. The power steering system does not require regular maintenance. If you suspect steering system problems and/or the Service Vehicle Soon light comes on, contact your dealer/ retailer for service repairs.
The g switch is located on the instrument panel below the Driver Information Center (DIC). To turn off StabiliTrak, press and hold the g switch until the light in the switch illuminates. To turn StabiliTrak on again, press the g switch again or restart the vehicle. A light in the switch should come on briefly when the ignition key is turned to ON/RUN as a check to let you know that the light is working. Adding non-dealer/non-retailer accessories can affect your vehicle’s performance. See Accessories and Modifications on page 9-3 for more information.
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If you need to reduce speed when approaching a curve, do it before you enter the curve, while the front wheels are straight ahead. Try to adjust the speed so you can drive through the curve. Maintain a reasonable, steady speed. Wait to accelerate until you are out of the curve, and then accelerate gently into the straightaway. Adding non-dealer/non-retailer accessories can affect your vehicle’s performance. See Accessories and Modifications on page 9-3.
Steering Tips It is important to take curves at a reasonable speed. A lot of the “driver lost control” accidents mentioned on the news happen on curves. Here is why: Experienced driver or beginner, each of us is subject to the same laws of physics when driving on curves. The traction of the tires against the road surface makes it possible for the vehicle to change its path when you turn the front wheels. If there is no traction, inertia will keep the vehicle going in the same direction. If you have ever tried to steer a vehicle on wet ice, you will understand this. Traction in a curve depends on the condition of the tires and the road surface, the angle at which the curve is banked, and your speed. While in a curve, speed is the one factor you can control.
Suppose you are steering through a sharp curve. Then you suddenly accelerate. Both control systems — steering and acceleration — have to do their work where the tires meet the road. Adding the sudden acceleration can demand too much of those places. You can lose control. See StabiliTrak® System on page 8-19. What should you do if this ever happens? Ease up on the brake or accelerator pedal, steer the vehicle the way you want it to go, and slow down. Speed limit signs near curves warn that you should adjust your speed. Of course, the posted speeds are based on good weather and road conditions. Under less favorable conditions you will want to go slower.
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Steering in Emergencies There are times when steering can be more effective than braking. For example, you come over a hill and find a truck stopped in your lane, or a car suddenly pulls out from nowhere, or a child darts out from between parked cars and stops right in front of you. You can avoid these problems by braking — if you can stop in time. But sometimes you cannot; there is not room. That is the time for evasive action — steering around the problem. Your vehicle can perform very well in emergencies like these. First apply the brakes. See Braking on page 8-17. It is better to remove as much speed as you can from a possible collision. Then steer around the problem, to the left or right depending on the space available.
Off-Road Recovery Your vehicle’s right wheels can drop off the edge of a road onto the shoulder while driving.
An emergency like this requires close attention and a quick decision. If you are holding the steering wheel at the recommended 9 and 3 o’clock positions, you can turn it a full 180 degrees very quickly without removing either hand. But you have to act fast, steer quickly, and just as quickly straighten the wheel once you have avoided the object. The fact that such emergency situations are always possible is a good reason to practice defensive driving at all times and wear safety belts properly.
If the level of the shoulder is only slightly below the pavement, recovery should be fairly easy. Ease off the accelerator and then, if there is nothing in the way, steer so that your vehicle straddles the edge of the pavement.
Turn the steering wheel 3 to 5 inches (about one-eighth turn) until the right front tire contacts the pavement edge. Then turn the steering wheel to go straight down the roadway.
Passing Passing another vehicle on a two-lane road can be dangerous. To reduce the risk of danger while passing:
Look down the road, to the sides, and to crossroads for situations that might affect a successful pass. If in doubt, wait.
(cid:129) Watch for traffic signs, pavement
markings, and lines that could indicate a turn or an intersection. Never cross a solid or double-solid line on your side of the lane.
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(cid:129) Do not get too close to the vehicle
you want to pass. Doing so can reduce your visibility.
(cid:129) Wait your turn to pass a slow
vehicle.
(cid:129) When you are being passed, ease
to the right.
Loss of Control Let us review what driving experts say about what happens when the three control systems — brakes, steering, and acceleration — do not have enough friction where the tires meet the road to do what the driver has asked. In any emergency, do not give up. Keep trying to steer and constantly seek an escape route or area of less danger.
Skidding In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle. Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking reasonable care suited to existing conditions, and by not overdriving those conditions. But skids are always possible. The three types of skids correspond to your vehicle’s three control systems. In the braking skid, the wheels are not rolling. In the steering or cornering skid, too much speed or steering in a curve causes tires to slip and lose cornering force. And in the acceleration skid, too much throttle causes the driving wheels to spin. A cornering skid is best handled by easing your foot off of the accelerator pedal.
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Driving and Operating
If your vehicle starts to slide, ease your foot off the accelerator pedal and quickly steer the way you want the vehicle to go. If you start steering quickly enough, your vehicle may straighten out. Always be ready for a second skid if it occurs. Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice, gravel, or other material is on the road. For safety, you want to slow down and adjust your driving to these conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery surfaces because stopping distance is longer and vehicle control more limited. While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try your best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration, or braking, including reducing vehicle speed by shifting to a lower gear. Any sudden changes could cause the tires to slide. You might not realize the surface is
slippery until your vehicle is skidding. Learn to recognize warning clues — such as enough water, ice, or packed snow on the road to make a mirrored surface — and slow down when you have any doubt. Remember: Any Antilock Brake System (ABS) helps avoid only the braking skid.
Driving at Night Night driving is more dangerous than day driving because some drivers are likely to be impaired — by alcohol or drugs, with night vision problems, or by fatigue. Night driving tips include: (cid:129) Drive defensively. (cid:129) Do not drink and drive. (cid:129) Reduce headlamp glare by adjusting the inside rearview mirror.
(cid:129) Slow down and keep more space
between you and other vehicles because headlamps can only light up so much road ahead.
(cid:129) Watch for animals. (cid:129) When tired, pull off the road. (cid:129) Do not wear sunglasses. (cid:129) Avoid staring directly into approaching headlamps.
(cid:129) Keep the windshield and all glass
on your vehicle clean — inside and out.
(cid:129) Keep your eyes moving,
especially during turns or curves. No one can see as well at night as in the daytime. But, as we get older, these differences increase. A 50-year-old driver might need at least twice as much light to see the same thing at night as a 20-year-old.
Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads Rain and wet roads can reduce vehicle traction and affect your ability to stop and accelerate. Always drive slower in these types of driving conditions and avoid driving through large puddles and deep-standing or flowing water.
{ CAUTION
Wet brakes can cause crashes. They might not work as well in a quick stop and could cause pulling to one side. You could lose control of the vehicle. After driving through a large puddle of water or a car/vehicle wash, lightly apply the brake pedal until the brakes work normally.
(Continued)
CAUTION (Continued)
Flowing or rushing water creates strong forces. Driving through flowing water could cause your vehicle to be carried away. If this happens, you and other vehicle occupants could drown. Do not ignore police warnings and be very cautious about trying to drive through flowing water.
Hydroplaning Hydroplaning is dangerous. Water can build up under your vehicle’s tires so they actually ride on the water. This can happen if the road is wet enough and you are going fast enough. When your vehicle is hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road.
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There is no hard and fast rule about hydroplaning. The best advice is to slow down when the road is wet.
Other Rainy Weather Tips Besides slowing down, other wet weather driving tips include: (cid:129) Allow extra following distance. (cid:129) Pass with caution. (cid:129) Keep windshield wiping
equipment in good shape.
(cid:129) Keep the windshield washer fluid
reservoir filled.
(cid:129) Have good tires with proper tread
depth. See Tires on page 9-38. Turn off cruise control, if equipped.
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Highway Hypnosis Always be alert and pay attention to your surroundings while driving. If you become tired or sleepy, find a safe place to park your vehicle and rest. Other driving tips include: (cid:129) Keep the vehicle well ventilated. (cid:129) Keep interior temperature cool. (cid:129) Keep your eyes moving — scan the road ahead and to the sides.
(cid:129) Check the rearview mirror and
vehicle instruments often.
Before Leaving on a Long Trip To prepare your vehicle for a long trip, consider having it serviced by your dealer/retailer before departing. Things to check on your own include: (cid:129) Windshield Washer Fluid: Reservoir full? Windows clean — inside and outside?
(cid:129) Wiper Blades: In good shape?
Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: All levels checked? Lamps: Do they all work and are lenses clean? Tires: Are treads good? Are tires inflated to recommended pressure?
(cid:129) Weather and Maps: Safe to
travel? Have up-to-date maps?
Hill and Mountain Roads Driving on steep hills or through mountains is different than driving on flat or rolling terrain. Tips for driving in these conditions include: (cid:129) Keep the vehicle serviced
and in good shape.
(cid:129) Check all fluid levels and brakes,
tires, cooling system, and transmission.
(cid:129) Going down steep or long hills,
shift to a lower gear.
{ CAUTION
If you do not shift down, the brakes could get so hot that they would not work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Shift down to let the engine assist the brakes on a steep downhill slope.
(cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) Driving and Operating
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{ CAUTION
Coasting downhill in N (Neutral) or with the ignition off is dangerous. The brakes will have to do all the work of slowing down and they could get so hot that they would not work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Always have the engine running and the vehicle in gear when going downhill.
(cid:129) Stay in your own lane. Do not swing wide or cut across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let you stay in your own lane. Top of hills: Be alert — something could be in your lane (stalled car, accident).
(cid:129) Pay attention to special road
signs (falling rocks area, winding roads, long grades, passing or no-passing zones) and take appropriate action.
Winter Driving Here are some tips for winter driving: (cid:129) Have your vehicle in good shape
for winter.
(cid:129) You might want to put winter emergency supplies in your vehicle.
Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a supply of windshield washer fluid, a rag, some winter outer clothing, a small shovel, a flashlight, a red cloth, and reflective warning triangles. And, if you will be driving under severe conditions, include a small bag of sand, a piece
of old carpet, or a couple of burlap bags to help provide traction. Be sure you properly secure these items in your vehicle. Also see Tires on page 9-38.
Driving on Snow or Ice Most of the time, those places where the tires meet the road probably have good traction. However, if there is snow or ice between the tires and the road, you can have a very slippery situation. You have a lot less traction, or grip, and need to be very careful. What is the worst time for this? Wet ice. Very cold snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice can be even more trouble because it can offer the least traction of all.
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Driving and Operating
You can get wet ice when it is about freezing, 32°F (0°C), and freezing rain begins to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews can get there. Whatever the condition — smooth ice, packed, blowing, or loose snow — drive with caution. Accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction. If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and polish the surface under the tires even more. The Antilock Brake System (ABS) improves your vehicle’s stability when you make a hard stop on a slippery road. Even though you have ABS, begin stopping sooner
than you would on dry pavement. See Antilock Brake System (ABS) on page 8-18. (cid:129) Allow greater following distance
on any slippery road.
(cid:129) Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine until you hit a spot that is covered with ice. On an otherwise clear road, ice patches can appear in shaded areas where the sun cannot reach, such as around clumps of trees, behind buildings, or under bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass can remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you are on it. Try not to brake while you are actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers.
If You Are Caught in a Blizzard If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a serious situation. You should probably stay with your vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near help and you can hike through the snow. Here are some things to do to summon help and keep yourself and your passengers safe:
Turn on the hazard warning flashers. Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police that you have been stopped by the snow.
(cid:129) Put on extra clothing or wrap a
blanket around you. If you do not have blankets or extra clothing, make body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags, floor mats — anything you can wrap around yourself or tuck under your clothing to keep warm.
You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.
(cid:129) (cid:129) { CAUTION
Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you. You cannot see it or smell it, so you might not know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking the exhaust pipe. And check around again from time to time to be sure snow does not collect there. Open a window just a little on the side of the vehicle that is away from the wind. This will help keep CO out.
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Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps the battery charged. You will need a well-charged battery to restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with the headlamps. Let the heater run for a while. Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again and repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or so until help comes.
If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand, Mud, Ice, or Snow Slowly and cautiously spin the wheels to free the vehicle when stuck in sand, mud, ice, or snow. See Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out on page 8-30.
{ CAUTION
If you let your vehicle’s tires spin at high speed, they can explode, and you or others could be injured. The vehicle can overheat, causing an engine compartment fire or other damage. Spin the wheels as little as possible and avoid going above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.
For information about using tire chains on the vehicle, see Tire Chains on page 9-59.
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Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out First, turn the steering wheel left and right to clear the area around the front wheels. Turn off any stability system. See StabiliTrak® System on page 8-19. Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear, or with a manual transmission, between FIRST (1) or SECOND (2) and REVERSE (R), spinning the wheels as little as possible. To prevent transmission wear, wait until the wheels stop spinning before shifting gears.
Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear. By slowly spinning the wheels in the forward and reverse directions, you will cause a rocking motion that could free your vehicle. If that does not get your vehicle out after a few tries, it might need to be towed out. If your vehicle does need to be towed out, see Towing Your Vehicle on page 9-72.
Loading the Vehicle It is very important to know how much weight your vehicle can carry. This weight is called the vehicle capacity weight and includes the weight of all occupants, cargo and all nonfactory-installed options. Two labels on your vehicle show how much weight it may properly carry, the Tire and Loading Information label and the Certification label.
{ CAUTION
Tire and Loading Information Label
Do not load the vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on the vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of the vehicle.
Label Example
A vehicle specific Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar). With the driver’s door open, you will find the label attached below the door lock post. The Tire
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and Loading Information label shows the number of occupant seating positions (A), and the maximum vehicle capacity weight (B) in kilograms and pounds. The Tire and Loading Information label also shows the tire size of the original equipment tires (C) and the recommended cold tire inflation pressures (D). For more information on tires and inflation see Tires on page 9-38
and Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 9-46. There is also important loading information on the Certification label. It tells you the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) and the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for the front and rear axle; see “Certification Label” later in this section.8-32
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5. Determine the combined
weight of luggage and cargo being loaded on the vehicle. That weight may not safely exceed the available cargo and luggage load capacity calculated in Step 4. 6. If your vehicle will be towing a trailer, the load from your trailer will be transferred to your vehicle. Consult this manual to determine how this reduces the available cargo and luggage load capacity of your vehicle.
The vehicle is neither designed nor intended to tow a trailer.
Steps for Determining Correct Load Limit 1. Locate the statement “The
combined weight of occupants and cargo should never exceed XXX kg or XXX lbs” on your vehicle placard. 2. Determine the combined weight of the driver and passengers that will be riding in your vehicle.
3. Subtract the combined weight of the driver and passengers from XXX kg or XXX lbs.
4. The resulting figure equals the available amount of cargo and luggage load capacity. For example, if the “XXX” amount equals 1400 lbs and there will be five 150 lb passengers in your vehicle, the amount of available cargo and luggage load capacity is 650 lbs (1400 − 750 (5 x 150) = 650 lbs).
Example 1
A. Vehicle Capacity Weight for
Example 1 = 1,000 lbs (453 kg).
B. Subtract Occupant Weight
150 lbs (68 kg) × 2 = 300 lbs (136 kg).
C. Available Occupant and Cargo Weight = 700 lbs (317 kg).
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vehicle’s capacity weight and seating positions. The combined weight of the driver, passengers, and cargo should never exceed the vehicle’s capacity weight. Certification Label
Example 2
Example 3
A. Vehicle Capacity Weight for
Example 2 = 1,000 lbs (453 kg).
B. Subtract Occupant Weight
150 lbs (68 kg) × 5 = 750 lbs (340 kg).
C. Available Cargo
Weight = 250 lbs (113 kg).
A. Vehicle Capacity Weight for
Example 3 = 1,000 lbs (453 kg).
B. Subtract Occupant
Weight 200 lbs (91 kg) × 5 = 1,000 lbs (453 kg).
C. Available Cargo
Weight = 0 lbs (0 kg).
Refer to the vehicle’s Tire and Loading Information label for specific information about the
Label Example
A vehicle specific Certification label, found on the rear edge of the driver’s door, tells you the gross weight capacity of the vehicle, called the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR).
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The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel, and cargo. Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle, or the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for either the front or rear axle. And, if you do have a heavy load, you should spread it out. See “Steps for Determining Correct Load Limit” earlier in this section.
{ CAUTION
Do not load the vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). (Continued)
CAUTION (Continued)
If you do, parts on the vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of the vehicle.
If you put things inside your vehicle — like suitcases, tools, packages, or anything else — they will go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they will keep going.
{ CAUTION
Things you put inside the vehicle can strike and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or in a crash. (cid:129) Put things in the trunk of
your vehicle. In a trunk, put them as far forward as you can. Try to spread the weight evenly.
(cid:129) Never stack heavier
things, like suitcases, inside the vehicle so that some of them are above the tops of the seats.
(cid:129) Do not leave an
unsecured child restraint in the vehicle.
(cid:129) When you carry
something inside the vehicle, secure it whenever you can.
(cid:129) Do not leave a seat folded down unless you need to.
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Fuel Use of the recommended fuel is an important part of the proper maintenance of your vehicle. To help keep the engine clean and maintain optimum vehicle performance, we recommend the use of gasoline advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline.
Gasoline Octane Use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 87 or higher. If the octane rating is less than 87, you might notice an audible knocking noise when you drive, commonly referred to as spark knock. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as
soon as possible. If you are using gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, the engine needs service.
Gasoline Specifications At a minimum, gasoline should meet ASTM specification D 4814 in the United States or CAN/CGSB-3.5 or 3.511 in Canada. Some gasolines contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT). We recommend against the use of gasolines containing MMT. See Additives on page 8-36 for additional information.
California Fuel If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emissions Standards, it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. See the underhood emission control label. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance might be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp could turn on and your vehicle might fail a smog-check test. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 4-20. If this occurs, return to your authorized dealer/retailer for diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs might not be covered by the vehicle warranty.
8-36
Driving and Operating
Additives To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing the emission control system to work properly. In most cases, you should not have to add anything to the fuel. However, some gasolines contain only the minimum amount of additive required to meet U.S. Environmental Protection Agency regulations. To help keep fuel injectors and intake valves clean, or if your vehicle experiences problems due to dirty injectors or valves, look for gasoline that is advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. Also, your dealer/retailer has additives that will help correct and prevent most deposit-related problems. Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines might be available in your area.
We recommend that you use these gasolines, if they comply with the specifications described earlier. However, E85 (85% ethanol) and other fuels containing more than 10% ethanol must not be used in vehicles that were not designed for those fuels. Notice: Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in the fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under your warranty. Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions can contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT. We recommend against the use of such gasolines.
Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system could be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp might turn on. If this occurs, return to your dealer/retailer for service.
Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel might be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel would not be covered by your warranty. To check the fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you will be driving.
Filling the Tank
{ CAUTION
Fuel vapor burns violently and a fuel fire can cause bad injuries. To help avoid injuries to you and others, read and follow all the instructions on the pump island. Turn off your engine when you are refueling. Do not smoke if you are near fuel or refueling your vehicle. Do not use cellular phones. Keep sparks, flames, and smoking materials away from fuel. Do not leave the fuel pump unattended when refueling your vehicle. This is against the law in some places. Do not re-enter the vehicle while pumping fuel. Keep children away from the fuel pump; never let children pump fuel.
Driving and Operating
8-37
{ CAUTION
Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. If you spill fuel and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any hiss noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.
Be careful not to spill fuel. Do not top off or overfill the tank and wait a few seconds after you have finished pumping before removing the nozzle. Clean fuel from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See Exterior Cleaning on page 9-75.
The fuel cap is located behind a hinged fuel door on the passenger side of the vehicle. To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly counterclockwise. The fuel cap has a spring in it, if the cap is released too soon it will spring back.
8-38
Driving and Operating
When replacing the fuel cap, turn it clockwise until it clicks. Make sure the cap is fully installed. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 4-20.
{ CAUTION
If a fire starts while you are refueling, do not remove the nozzle. Shut off the flow of fuel by shutting off the pump or by notifying the station attendant. Leave the area immediately.
If you need a new fuel
Notice: cap, be sure to get the right type. Your dealer/retailer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage your fuel tank and emissions system. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 4-20.
Filling a Portable Fuel Container
{ CAUTION Never fill a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the fuel vapor.
(Continued)
CAUTION (Continued)
You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others: (cid:129) Dispense fuel only into
approved containers.
(cid:129) Do not fill a container while
it is inside a vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed, or on any surface other than the ground.
(cid:129) Bring the fill nozzle in
contact with the inside of the fill opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the filling is complete.
(cid:129) Do not smoke while
pumping fuel.
(cid:129) Do not use a cellular phone
while pumping fuel.
Vehicle Service and Care
Service Service ...............................9-2
Accessories and Modifications .....................9-3
California Proposition 65
Warning ............................9-3
California Perchlorate Materials Requirements .....9-3
Doing Your Own Service Work ....................9-4
Adding Equipment to the Outside of the Vehicle ......9-4Owner Checks Owner Checks ....................9-5
Hood Release .....................9-5
Engine Compartment Overview ...........................9-6
Engine Oil ..........................9-7
Engine Oil Life System .......9-9
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter ....9-11Vehicle Service and Care
9-1
Automatic Transmission Fluid ................................9-12
Manual Transmission Fluid ................................9-12
Hydraulic Clutch ................9-12
Engine Coolant .................9-12
Pressure Cap ....................9-15
Engine Overheating ...........9-15
Cooling System .................9-16
Power Steering Fluid .........9-20
Windshield Washer Fluid ....9-20
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement ...................9-21
Brakes ..............................9-22
Battery ..............................9-25
Headlamp Aiming Headlamp Aiming ..............9-26
Bulb Replacement Bulb Replacement .............9-28
Halogen Bulbs ..................9-28
Front Turn Signal Lamps ...9-28
Taillamps (Five-Door Hatchback) .....9-29
Taillamps (Three-Door Hatchback) ...9-30
License Plate Lamp ..........9-32
Replacement Bulbs ...........9-33Electrical System Add-On Electrical Equipment .......................9-33
Headlamp Wiring ..............9-33
Windshield Wiper Fuses ....9-34
Power Windows and Other Power Options .......9-34
Fuses ...............................9-34
Engine Compartment Fuse Block ......................9-34
Rear Compartment Fuse Block ......................9-36Tires Tires .................................9-38
Winter Tires ......................9-39
Tire Sidewall Labeling .......9-40
Tire Terminology and Definitions .......................9-43
Inflation - Tire Pressure ....9-46
High-Speed Operation .......9-47
Tire Pressure Monitor System ............................9-48
Tire Pressure Monitor Operation ........................9-50
Tire Inspection and Rotation ..........................9-51
When It Is Time for New Tires .......................9-539-2
Vehicle Service and Care
Buying New Tires .............9-54
Different Size Tires and Wheels .....................9-55
Uniform Tire Quality Grading ...........................9-56
Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance ....................9-58
Wheel Replacement ..........9-58
Tire Chains .......................9-59
Tire Changing If a Tire Goes Flat ............9-60
Changing a Flat Tire .........9-60
Removing the Spare Tire and Tools .................9-61
Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire .......................9-62
Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools .................9-66
Compact Spare Tire ..........9-67Jump Starting Jump Starting ...................9-68
Towing Towing Your Vehicle .........9-72
Recreational Vehicle Towing ............................9-72
Towing a Trailer ................9-72
Appearance Care Interior Cleaning ................9-72
Exterior Cleaning ..............9-75
Sheet Metal Damage ........9-78
Finish Damage ..................9-79
Underbody Maintenance ....9-79
Chemical Paint Spotting ....9-79
Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials .........................9-80Service For service and parts needs, visit your dealer/retailer. You will receive genuine Saturn parts and Saturn-trained and supported service people. Genuine Saturn parts have one of these marks.
Vehicle Service and Care
9-3
Accessories and Modifications When non-dealer/non-retailer accessories are added to your vehicle they can affect your vehicle’s performance and safety, including such things as, airbags, braking, stability, ride and handling, emissions systems, aerodynamics, durability, and electronic systems like antilock brakes, traction control and stability control. Some of these accessories could even cause malfunction or damage not covered by warranty. GM Accessories are designed to complement and function with other systems on your vehicle. Your GM dealer/retailer can accessorize your vehicle using genuine GM Accessories. When you go to your GM dealer/retailer and ask for
GM Accessories, you will know that GM-trained and supported service technicians will perform the work using genuine GM Accessories. Also, see Adding Equipment to Your Airbag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-35.
California Proposition 65
Warning Most motor vehicles, including this one, contain and/or emit chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. Engine exhaust, many parts and systems (including some inside the vehicle), many fluids, and some component wear by-products contain and/or emit these chemicals.California Perchlorate Materials Requirements Certain types of automotive applications, such as airbag initiators, seat belt pretensioners, and lithium batteries contained in remote keyless entry transmitters, may contain perchlorate materials. Special handling may be necessary. For additional information, see www.dtsc.ca.gov/hazardouswaste/ perchlorate.
9-4
Vehicle Service and Care
Doing Your Own Service Work
{ CAUTION
You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it. (cid:129) Be sure you have sufficient knowledge, experience, the proper replacement parts, and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task. (cid:129) Be sure to use the proper
nuts, bolts, and other fasteners. English and metric fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.
If you want to do some of your own service work, you should use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 11-14. Your vehicle has an airbag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see Airbag System Check on page 1-36. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See “Maintenance Record” in the Limited Warranty, Maintenance and Owner Assistance Information manual.
Adding Equipment to the Outside of the Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airflow around it. This can cause wind noise and can affect fuel economy and windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer/retailer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle.
Owner Checks { CAUTION
Hood Release To open the hood:
Vehicle Service and Care
9-5
An electric fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan.
{ CAUTION
Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.
1. Pull the handle that is located
under the instrument panel.
2. Push the secondary hood
release lever upward.
3. Lift the hood. After the hood is slightly lifted, it will continue to open to the full position. Before closing the hood, be sure all the filler caps are on properly. Then lift the hood to relieve pressure. Pull the hood down, close it firmly.
9-6
Vehicle Service and Care
Engine Compartment Overview When you open the hood, this is what you will see:
Vehicle Service and Care
9-7
A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter on
page 9-11.
B. Engine Oil Fill Cap. Engine Oil
on page 9-7.
C. Brake Fluid Reservoir. Brakes
on page 9-22.
D. Coolant Reservoir. Cooling
System on page 9-16.
E. Coolant Reservoir Pressure Cap.
Pressure Cap on page 9-15.
F. Engine Compartment Fuse Block
on page 9-34.
G. Battery on page 9-25. H. Windshield Washer Fluid on
page 9-20.
I. Engine Oil Dipstick. Engine Oil
on page 9-7.
Engine Oil
If the low oil level light appears on the instrument cluster, check the engine oil level right away. See Low Oil Level Light on page 4-23. You should check the engine oil level regularly; this is just a reminder.
Checking Engine Oil It is a good idea to check the engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground. The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 9-6
for the location of the engine oil dipstick. 1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you do not do this, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.2. Pull the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down and check the level.
9-8
Vehicle Service and Care
What Kind of Engine Oil to Use Look for three things:
(cid:129) GM6094M
Use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM6094M.
(cid:129) SAE 5W-30
SAE 5W-30 is best for the vehicle. If you are in an area of extreme cold, where the temperature falls below −20°F (−29°C), use either an SAE 5W-30 synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both provide easier cold starting and better protection for the engine at extremely low temperatures. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50.
When to Add Engine Oil If the oil is below the MIN (minimum) mark, add at least one quart/liter of the recommended oil. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Specifications on page 10-2. Notice: Do not add too much oil. If the engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the upper mark that shows the proper operating range, the engine could be damaged.
See Engine Compartment Overview on page 9-6 for the location of the engine oil fill cap. Add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you are through.
(cid:129) American Petroleum Institute
(API) starburst symbol
Oils meeting these requirements should have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API). Notice: Use only engine oil identified as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and showing the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty.
Vehicle Service and Care
9-9
Engine Oil Additives Do not add anything to the oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol that meet GM Standard GM6094M are all you need for good performance and engine protection.
Engine Oil Life System When to Change Engine Oil Your vehicle has a computer system that lets you know when to change the engine oil and filter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change will be indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, you must reset the system every time the oil is changed.
When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it will indicate that an oil change is necessary. The letters InSP will appear in the odometer display. Change the oil as soon as possible within the mileage indicated on the display. If you are driving under the best conditions, the oil life system might indicate that an oil change is necessary once a year. The engine oil and filter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. Your dealer/retailer has trained service people who will perform this work using genuine parts and reset the system. It is also important to check the oil regularly and keep it at the proper level. If the system is ever reset accidentally, you must change the oil at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since your last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed.
9-10
Vehicle Service and Care
How to Reset the Engine Oil Life System The Engine Oil Life System calculates when to change the engine oil and filter based on vehicle use. Whenever the oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where you change the oil prior to the letters InSP appearing in the odometer display, reset the system. After changing the engine oil, reset the system: 1. Turn the ignition key to
LOCK/OFF.
2. Press the instrument panel
cluster stem until the odometer is displayed.
3. Press and hold the cluster stem until the letters InSP are displayed.
4. Hold the cluster stem down and turn the ignition key to ON/RUN. 5. The letters InSP in the instrument
panel cluster display will flash. 6. Keep the cluster stem down for
at least 20 seconds and then release the stem.
If the letters InSP and the remaining mileage for the next oil change appear in the instrument panel cluster display, the system is properly reset.
What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that can be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the filter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil.
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter
See Engine Compartment Overview on page 9-6 for the location of the engine air cleaner/filter. When to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Inspect the air cleaner/filter at the Maintenance II intervals and replace it at the first oil change after each 50,000 mile (83 000 km) interval. See “Schedule Maintenance” in Service and Maintenance for
Vehicle Service and Care
9-11
more information. If you are driving in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect the filter at each engine oil change. How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter To inspect the air cleaner/filter, remove the filter from the vehicle and lightly shake the filter to release loose dust and dirt. If the filter remains caked with dirt, a new filter is required. To inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/filter. 1. Remove the screws that hold
the cover on.
2. Disconnect the electrical
connector.
3. Lift off the cover. 4. Inspect or replace the engine air
cleaner/filter.
5. Reverse Steps 1 through 3 to
reinstall the cover and reconnect the electrical connector.
{ CAUTION
Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps to stop flames if the engine backfires. If it is not there and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.
If the air cleaner/filter
Notice: is off, a backfire can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you are driving.
9-12
Vehicle Service and Care
Automatic Transmission Fluid It is not necessary to check the transmission fluid level. A transmission fluid leak is the only reason for fluid loss. If a leak occurs, take your vehicle to the dealer/retailer service department and have it repaired as soon as possible. Change the fluid and filter at the intervals listed in the Maintenance Schedule. See “Additional Required Services” in Service and Maintenance. Be sure to use the transmission fluid listed in “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in Service and Maintenance. Notice: Use of the incorrect automatic transmission fluid may damage your vehicle, and the damages may not be
covered by your warranty. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Limited Warranty, Maintenance and Owner Assistance Information manual.
Manual Transmission Fluid It is not necessary to check the manual transmission fluid level. A transmission fluid leak is the only reason for fluid loss. If a leak occurs, take the vehicle to the dealer/retailer service department and have it repaired as soon as possible. You may also have your fluid level checked by your dealer/retailer when you have your oil changed. See “Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in Service and Maintenance for the proper fluid to use.
Hydraulic Clutch The hydraulic clutch linkage in your vehicle is self-adjusting. This system does not have its own reservoir. It receives fluid from the brake master cylinder reservoir. See Brakes on page 9-22 for more information.
Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for five years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if you add only DEX-COOL® extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating on page 9-15.
Vehicle Service and Care
9-13
A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant will: (cid:129) Give freezing protection down
to −34°F (−37°C).
(cid:129) Give boiling protection up to
265°F (129°C).
(cid:129) Protect against rust and
corrosion.
(cid:129) Help keep the proper engine
temperature. Let the warning lights and gages work as they should.
Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® can cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at the first maintenance service after each 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in the vehicle.
What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL® coolant which will not damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you do not need to add anything else. { CAUTION
Adding only plain water to the cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. The vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, the engine could get too hot but would not get the overheat warning. The engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50
mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.If you use extra
If an improper coolant
Notice: mixture is used, the engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core, and other parts. Notice: inhibitors and/or additives in your vehicle’s cooling system, you could damage your vehicle. Use only the proper mixture of the engine coolant listed in this manual for the cooling system. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants in the Maintenance and Limited Warranty and Owner Assistance Information manual.
(cid:129) 9-14
Vehicle Service and Care
Checking Coolant
The coolant reservoir is located in the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 9-6 for more information on location.
{ CAUTION
Turning the coolant reservoir pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. Never turn the coolant reservoir pressure cap - even a little - when the engine and radiator are hot.
The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the KALT/COLD line. Do not overfill the coolant reservoir. Too much coolant can result in an overflow condition when the fluid is hot.
Adding Coolant
