2005 Pontiac Bonneville Owners Manual

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This symbol indicates that the oil has been certiﬁed by the American Petroleum Institute (API). You should look for this information on the oil container, and use only those oils that are identiﬁed as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and have the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. Notice: Use only engine oil identiﬁed as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and showing the American Petroleum Institute Certiﬁed For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty. GM Goodwrench® oil meets all the requirements for your vehicle. If you are in an area of extreme cold, where the temperature falls below −20°F (−29°C) it is recommended that you use either an SAE 5W-30 synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both will provide easier cold starting and better protection for your engine at extremely low temperatures. Engine Oil Additives Do not add anything to your oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol that meet GM Standard GM6094M are all you will need for good performance and engine protection. 5-19 When to Change Engine Oil (Vehicles Without the Engine Oil Life System) If any one of these is true for you, use the short trip/city maintenance schedule: (cid:127) Most trips are less than 5 miles (8 km). This is particularly important when outside temperatures are below freezing. (cid:127) Most trips include extensive idling, such as frequent driving in stop-and-go traffic. (cid:127) You frequently tow a trailer or use a carrier on top of your vehicle. The vehicle is used for delivery service, police, taxi, or other commercial application. Driving under these conditions causes engine oil to break down sooner. If any one of these is true for your vehicle, then you need to change your oil and ﬁlter every 3,000 miles (5 000 km) or 3 months — whichever occurs ﬁrst. If none of them is true, use the long trip/highway maintenance schedule. Change the oil and ﬁlter every 7,500 miles (12 500 km) or 12 months — whichever occurs ﬁrst. Driving a vehicle with a fully warmed engine under highway conditions will cause engine oil to break down slower. If your vehicle has the Engine Oil Life System, see Engine Oil Life System on page 5-20 for information on when to change your engine oil. 5-20 Engine Oil Life System When to Change Engine Oil If your vehicle has the Engine Oil Life System, it has a computer system that lets you know when to change the engine oil and ﬁlter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change will be indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, you must reset the system every time the oil is changed. When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it will indicate that an oil change is necessary. An ENGINE OIL CHANGE SOON DIC message will come on. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-62. Change your oil as soon as possible within the next 600 miles (1 000 km). It is possible that, if you are driving under the best conditions, the oil life system may not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, your engine oil and ﬁlter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. Your dealer has GM-trained service people who will perform this work using genuine GM parts and reset the system. It is also important to check your oil regularly and keep it at the proper level. (cid:127) If the system is ever reset accidentally, you must change your oil at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since your last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed. How to Reset the Engine Oil Life System The Engine Oil Life System calculates when to change your engine oil and ﬁlter based on vehicle use. Anytime your oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where you change your oil prior to an ENGINE OIL CHANGE SOON DIC message being turned on, reset the system. Always reset the engine oil life to 100% after every oil change. It will not reset itself. To reset the Engine Oil Life System, do the following: 1. Display OIL LIFE on the DIC. 2. Press and hold the RESET button for more than ﬁve seconds. The oil life will change to 100%. 3. Turn the key to OFF. If the ENGINE OIL CHANGE SOON DIC message comes back on when you start your vehicle, the Engine Oil Life System has not reset. Repeat the procedure. What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the ﬁlter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help. 5-21 Engine Air Cleaner/Filter (3.8L V6 Engine) See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter. 5-22 When to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Inspect the air cleaner/ﬁlter every 15,000 miles (25 000 km) and replace every 45,000 miles (75 000 km). If you are driving in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect the ﬁlter at each engine oil change. How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter To inspect the air cleaner/ﬁlter remove the ﬁlter from the vehicle and lightly shake the ﬁlter to release loose dust and dirt. If the ﬁlter remains caked with dirt, a new ﬁlter is required. To inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter do the following: 1. Loosen the two clips on top of the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter housing and lift the ﬁlter cover tabs out of the housing. 2. Push the housing cover toward the engine, compressing the hose. 3. Pull out the ﬁlter. Inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter. 4. To reinstall the housing cover, make sure the ﬁlter cover tabs position through the slots in the housing. A notch on the sides of the ﬁlter cover will indicate the correct engagement. 5. Fasten the two clips on the top of the housing when you are ﬁnished. {CAUTION: Operating the engine with the air cleaner/ﬁlter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps to stop ﬂame if the engine backﬁres. If it is not there and the engine backﬁres, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/ﬁlter off. If the air cleaner/ﬁlter is off, a backﬁre can Notice: cause a damaging engine ﬁre. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/ﬁlter in place when you are driving. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter (4.6L V8 Engine) See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter. When to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Inspect the air cleaner/ﬁlter every 15,000 miles (25 000 km) and replace every 45,000 miles (75 000 km). If you are driving in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect the ﬁlter at each engine oil change. How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter To inspect the air cleaner/ﬁlter remove the ﬁlter from the vehicle and lightly shake the ﬁlter to release loose dust and dirt. If the ﬁlter remains caked with dirt, a new ﬁlter is required. 5-23 To inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter, do the following: 1. Loosen and remove both wing screws on the top of the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter cover. 2. Lift up the outboard side of the cover at an angle while pulling toward you. This is necessary due to the three tabs located on the rear of the cover. 3. Remove the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter element and any loose debris that may be found in the air cleaner base. 4. Inspect or replace the air ﬁlter element. 5-24 Follow these steps to reinstall the cover to the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter housing: 1. Align the three tabs located on the back of the cover with the three slots on the back of the housing. 2. Push the cover slightly down and towards the engine to engage the tabs in the slots and align the two wing screws. 3. Engage and tighten the two wing screws on the top of the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter housing cover. {CAUTION: Operating the engine with the air cleaner/ﬁlter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps to stop ﬂame if the engine backﬁres. If it is not there and the engine backﬁres, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/ﬁlter off. If the air cleaner/ﬁlter is off, a backﬁre can Notice: cause a damaging engine ﬁre. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/ﬁlter in place when you are driving. Automatic Transaxle Fluid (3.8L V6 Engine) When to Check and Change A good time to check your automatic transaxle ﬂuid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change both the ﬂuid and ﬁlter every 50,000 miles (83 000 km) if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions: In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or higher. In hilly or mountainous terrain. (cid:127) When doing frequent trailer towing. (cid:127) Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service. If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, change the ﬂuid and ﬁlter at 100,000 miles (166 000 km). See Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services on page 6-4. 5-25 (cid:127) (cid:127) How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick. Notice: Too much or too little ﬂuid can damage the transaxle. Too much can mean that some of the ﬂuid could come out and fall on hot engine or exhaust system parts, starting a ﬁre. Too little ﬂuid could cause the transaxle to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check the transaxle ﬂuid. Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transaxle ﬂuid level if you have been driving: (cid:127) When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C). (cid:127) At high speed for quite a while. In heavy traffic — especially in hot weather. (cid:127) While pulling a trailer. To get the right reading, the ﬂuid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), you may have to drive longer. Checking the Fluid Level Prepare your vehicle as follows: (cid:127) Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine running. (cid:127) With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever in PARK (P). (cid:127) With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P). Let the engine run at idle for three to ﬁve minutes. 5-26 (cid:127) (cid:127) Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps: The transaxle ﬂuid dipstick top is a round, red loop and is located next to the brake master cylinder behind the engine block. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. 1. Pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel. 2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and then pull it back out again. 3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower level. The ﬂuid level must be in the cross-hatched area. 4. If the ﬂuid level is in the acceptable range, push the dipstick back in all the way. 5-27 How to Add Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transaxle ﬂuid to use. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-24. If the ﬂuid level is low, add only enough of the proper ﬂuid to bring the level into the cross-hatched area on the dipstick. 1. Pull out the dipstick. 2. Using a long-neck funnel, add enough ﬂuid at the dipstick hole to bring it to the proper level. It does not take much ﬂuid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Do not overﬁll. Notice: Use of automatic transaxle ﬂuid labeled other than DEXRON®-III, Approved for the H-Speciﬁcation, may damage your vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use automatic transaxle ﬂuid labeled DEXRON®-III, Approved for the H-Speciﬁcation. 3. After adding ﬂuid, recheck the ﬂuid level as described under “How to Check,” earlier in this section. 4. When the correct ﬂuid level is obtained, push the dipstick back in all the way. Automatic Transaxle Fluid (4.6L V8 Engine) When to Check and Change A good time to check your automatic transaxle ﬂuid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change both the ﬂuid and ﬁlter every 50,000 miles (83 000 km) if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions: In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or higher. In hilly or mountainous terrain. (cid:127) When doing frequent trailer towing. (cid:127) Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service. (cid:127) Use such as limousine service. If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, change the ﬂuid and ﬁlter at 100,000 miles (166 000 km). See Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services on page 6-4. 5-28 (cid:127) (cid:127) How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick. Notice: Too much or too little ﬂuid can damage the transaxle. Too much can mean that some of the ﬂuid could come out and fall on hot engine or exhaust system parts, starting a ﬁre. Too little ﬂuid could cause the transaxle to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check the transaxle ﬂuid. Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transaxle ﬂuid level if you have been driving: (cid:127) When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C). (cid:127) At high speed for quite a while. In heavy traffic — especially in hot weather. (cid:127) While pulling a trailer. To get the right reading, the ﬂuid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). If it is colder than 50° F (10°C), you may have to drive longer. Checking the Fluid Level Prepare you vehicle as follows: (cid:127) Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine running. (cid:127) With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever in PARK (P). (cid:127) With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P). Let the engine run at idle for three to ﬁve minutes. 5-29 (cid:127) (cid:127) Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps: The transaxle ﬂuid cap is located next to the radiator hose and below the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter assembly on the driver’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. 1. After removing the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter assembly to reach the transaxle ﬂuid cap, turn the cap counterclockwise to remove. Pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel. 2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds, and then pull it back out again. 5-30 3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower level. The ﬂuid level must be in the cross-hatched area. 4. If the ﬂuid level is in the acceptable range, push the dipstick back in all the way and turn the handle clockwise. Reinstall the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter assembly. How to Add Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transaxle ﬂuid to use. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-24. If the ﬂuid level is low, add only enough of the proper ﬂuid to bring the level into the cross-hatched area on the dipstick. 1. Pull out the dipstick. 2. Using a long-neck funnel, add enough ﬂuid at the dipstick hole to bring it to the proper level. It does not take much ﬂuid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Do not overﬁll. Notice: Use of automatic transaxle ﬂuid labeled other than DEXRON®-III, Approved for the H-Speciﬁcation, may damage your vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use automatic transaxle ﬂuid labeled DEXRON®-III, Approved for the H-Speciﬁcation. 3. After adding ﬂuid, recheck the ﬂuid level as described under “How to Check,” earlier in this section. 4. When the correct ﬂuid level is obtained, push the dipstick back in all the way and turn the handle clockwise. Engine Coolant (3.8L V6 Engine) The cooling system in your vehicle is ﬁlled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for 5 years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs ﬁrst, if you add only extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating (3.8L V6 Engine) on page 5-36 or Engine Overheating (4.6L V8 Engine) on page 5-38. A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant will: (cid:127) Give freezing protection down to −34°F (−37°C). (cid:127) Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C). (cid:127) Protect against rust and corrosion. (cid:127) Help keep the proper engine temperature. Let the warning lights and gages work as they should. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs ﬁrst. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle. 5-31 (cid:127) What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL® coolant which will not damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you do not need to add anything else. If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system. Notice: have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful. If you use the proper coolant, you do not {CAUTION: Checking Coolant Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch ﬁre and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant. If you use an improper coolant mixture, Notice: your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. 5-32 The engine coolant recovery tank is located in the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle, near the windshield. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the FULL COLD mark or a little higher. When your engine is warm, the level should be up to the FULL HOT mark or a little higher. Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture at the coolant recovery tank, but be careful not to spill it. {CAUTION: Turning the radiator pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. With the coolant recovery tank, you will almost never have to add coolant at the radiator. Never turn the radiator pressure cap — even a little — when the engine and radiator are hot. {CAUTION: You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine. Occasionally check the coolant level in the radiator. For information on how to add coolant to the radiator, see Cooling System (3.8L V6 Engine) on page 5-40 or Cooling System (4.6L V8 Engine) on page 5-47. 5-33 Engine Coolant (4.6L V8 Engine) The cooling system in your vehicle is ﬁlled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for 5 years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs ﬁrst, if you add only DEX-COOL® extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating (3.8L V6 Engine) on page 5-36 or Engine Overheating (4.6L V8 Engine) on page 5-38. A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant will: (cid:127) Giving freezing protection down to −34°F (−37°C). (cid:127) Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C). (cid:127) Protect against rust and corrosion. (cid:127) Help keep the proper engine temperature. Let the warning lights and gages work as they should. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs ﬁrst. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle. 5-34 What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL® coolant which will not damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you do not need to add anything else. {CAUTION: Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch ﬁre and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant. If you use an improper coolant mixture, Notice: your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. (cid:127) If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system. Notice: have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful. If you use the proper coolant, you do not Checking Coolant The engine coolant surge tank is located toward the rear of the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the FULL COLD mark which is located on the side of the surge tank that faces the engine. If the LOW ENGINE COOLANT message comes on and stays on, it means you are low on engine coolant. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-62 for more information. Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture at the surge tank, but only when the engine is cool. {CAUTION: Turning the surge tank pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. Never turn the surge tank pressure cap — even a little — when the engine and radiator are hot. 5-35 Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap (4.6L V8 Engine) Notice: coolant loss and possible engine damage may occur. Be sure the cap is properly and tightly secured. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. If the pressure cap is not tightly installed, Engine Overheating (3.8L V6 Engine) You will ﬁnd a coolant temperature gage or a DIC warning message about a hot engine on your vehicle’s instrument panel. See Engine Coolant Temperature Gage (V6 Engine) on page 3-45 or Engine Coolant Temperature Gage (V8 Engine) on page 3-46 and DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-62. {CAUTION: You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine. When replacing the pressure cap, make sure the arrow lines up with the tube. Radiator Pressure Cap (3.8L V6 Engine) Notice: The radiator cap on your vehicle is a pressure-type cap and must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss and possible engine damage from overheating. Be sure the arrows on the cap line up with the overﬂow tube on the radiator ﬁller neck. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. 5-36 If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine {CAUTION: Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch ﬁre. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool. If your engine catches ﬁre because you Notice: keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty. If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine If you get an engine overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: (cid:127) Climb a long hill on a hot day. (cid:127) Stop after high-speed driving. Idle for long periods in traffic. Tow a trailer. If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in NEUTRAL (N) while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) and let the engine idle. 2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan speed and open the windows as necessary. If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning does not come back on, you can drive normally. 5-37 (cid:127) (cid:127) If the warning continues and you have not stopped, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there is still no sign of steam, you can idle the engine for three minutes while you are parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away. Engine Overheating (4.6L V8 Engine) You will ﬁnd an ENGINE HOT, IDLE ENGINE message or an ENGINE HOT, STOP ENGINE message displayed in the Driver Information Center (DIC). There is also an engine coolant temperature gage on the instrument panel cluster. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-62 and Engine Coolant Temperature Gage (V6 Engine) on page 3-45 or Engine Coolant Temperature Gage (V8 Engine) on page 3-46. If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine {CAUTION: Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch ﬁre. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode (4.6L V8 Engine) on page 5-40 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency. 5-38 If your engine catches ﬁre because you Notice: keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode (4.6L V8 Engine) on page 5-40 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency. If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine An overheat warning, along with a low coolant message, can indicate a serious problem. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-62. If you get an engine overheat warning with no low coolant message, but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: (cid:127) Climb a long hill on a hot day. (cid:127) Stop after high-speed driving. Idle for long periods in traffic. If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in NEUTRAL (N) while stopped. If it safe to do so, pull off the road, shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) and let the engine idle. 2. Set the climate controls to the highest heat setting and fan speed and open the windows as necessary. If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning does not come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there is still no sign of steam, idle the engine for three minutes while you are parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. Also, see “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” later in this section. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away. 5-39 (cid:127) Cooling System (3.8L V6 Engine) When you decide it is safe to lift the hood, here is what you will see: A. Coolant Recovery Tank B. Radiator Pressure Cap C. Electric Engine Cooling Fans Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode (4.6L V8 Engine) If an overheated engine condition exists and the message ENGINE HOT, STOP ENGINE is displayed, an overheat protection mode which alternates ﬁring groups of cylinders helps prevent engine damage. In this mode, you will notice a loss in power and engine performance. This operating mode allows your vehicle to be driven to a safe place in an emergency. Driving extended miles (km) in the overheat protection mode should be avoided. Notice: After driving in the overheated engine protection operating mode, to avoid engine damage, allow the engine to cool before attempting any repair. The engine oil will be severely degraded. Repair the cause of coolant loss, change the oil and reset the oil life system. See Engine Oil on page 5-16. 5-40 {CAUTION: {CAUTION: An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan. If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. The coolant level should be at or above the FULL COLD mark when the engine is cold. The coolant level should be at the FULL HOT mark under normal operating conditions. If it is not, you may have a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system. Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine ﬁre, and you could be burned. Get any leak ﬁxed before you drive the vehicle. If there seems to be no leak, with the engine on, check to see if the electric engine cooling fans are running. If the engine is overheating, both fans should be running. If they are not, your vehicle needs service. Notice: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant is not covered by your warranty. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs ﬁrst. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle. 5-41 In cold weather, water can freeze and crack Notice: the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture. {CAUTION: You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine. When the coolant in the coolant recovery tank is at the FULL COLD mark, start your vehicle. How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Recovery Tank If you have not found a problem yet, but the coolant level is not at the FULL COLD mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® engine coolant at the coolant recovery tank. See Engine Coolant (3.8L V6 Engine) on page 5-31 or Engine Coolant (4.6L V8 Engine) on page 5-34 for more information. {CAUTION: Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch ﬁre and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant. 5-42 If the overheat warning continues, there is one more thing you can try. You can add the proper coolant mixture directly to the radiator, but be sure the cooling system is cool before you do it. {CAUTION: Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the radiator pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and radiator pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap. How to Add Coolant to the Radiator 1. You can remove the radiator pressure cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise until it ﬁrst stops. Do not press down while turning the pressure cap. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left. 2. Then keep turning the pressure cap, but now push down as you turn it. Remove the pressure cap. 5-43 3. Remove the 3800 Series II V6 engine cover shield to access the bleed valve. 3.2. Lift the engine cover shield at the front, slide the catch tab out of the engine bracket and remove the cover shield. 3.3. Put the oil ﬁll tube, with cap attached, in the valve cover oil ﬁll hole until you are ready to replace the cover shield. 4. After the engine cools, open the coolant air bleed valve. There is one bleed valve. It is located on the thermostat housing. 3.1. Clean the area around the engine oil ﬁll tube and cap before removing. Twist the oil ﬁll tube, with cap attached, counterclockwise and remove it. 5-44 6. Rinse or wipe any spilled coolant from the engine and the compartment. 7. Replace the 3800 Series II V6 engine cover shield. 7.1. Remove the oil ﬁll tube, with cap attached, from the valve cover. 7.2. Insert the catch tab on the cover shield under the bracket on the engine. 7.3. Place the hole in the cover shield over the hole in the valve cover. Install oil ﬁll tube and cap by twisting clockwise. 5-45 5. Fill the radiator with the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture, up to the base of the ﬁller neck. See Engine Coolant (3.8L V6 Engine) on page 5-31 or Engine Coolant (4.6L V8 Engine) on page 5-34 for more information about the proper coolant mixture. If you see a stream of coolant coming from an air bleed valve, close the valve. Otherwise, close the valve after the radiator is ﬁlled. 8. Then ﬁll the coolant recovery tank to the FULL COLD mark. 9. Put the cap back on the coolant recovery tank, but leave the radiator pressure cap off. 10. Start the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fans. 11. By this time, the coolant level inside the radiator ﬁller neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture through the ﬁller neck until the level reaches the base of the ﬁller neck. 12. Then replace the pressure cap. At any time during this procedure if coolant begins to ﬂow out of the ﬁller neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure the arrow on the pressure cap lines up properly. 5-46 Cooling System (4.6L V8 Engine) When you decide it is safe to lift the hood, here is what you will see: {CAUTION: An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan. If the coolant inside the coolant surge tank is boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface. A. Coolant Surge Tank with Pressure Cap B. Electric Engine Cooling Fans 5-47 Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs ﬁrst. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle. How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Surge Tank If you have not found a problem yet, check to see if coolant is visible in the surge tank. If coolant is visible but the coolant level is not at the proper level (4.5 inches (11.4 cm) below the top of the ﬁller neck), add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant at the coolant surge tank, but be sure the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is cool before you do it. See Engine Coolant (3.8L V6 Engine) on page 5-31 or Engine Coolant (4.6L V8 Engine) on page 5-34 for more information. A low coolant level should be indicated by a LOW ENGINE COOLANT message on the Driver Information Center (DIC). If it is, you may have a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system. {CAUTION: Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine ﬁre, and you could be burned. Get any leak ﬁxed before you drive the vehicle. If there seems to be no leak, with the engine on, check to see if the electric engine cooling fans are running. If the engine is overheating, both fans should be running. If they are not, your vehicle needs service. Notice: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant is not covered by your warranty. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode (4.6L V8 Engine) on page 5-40 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency. 5-48 If no coolant is visible in the surge tank, add coolant as follows: {CAUTION: {CAUTION: Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the coolant surge tank pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and coolant surge tank pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap. Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch ﬁre and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant. 5-49 In cold weather, water can freeze and crack Notice: the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture. {CAUTION: You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine. 5-50 1. You can remove the coolant surge tank pressure cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise (left) until it ﬁrst stops. Do not press down while turning the pressure cap. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left. 2. Then keep turning the cap, but now push down as you turn it. Remove the pressure cap. 3. Fill the coolant surge tank with the proper mixture to the full cold ﬁll mark on the side of the coolant surge tank. 4. With the coolant surge tank pressure cap off, start the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fans. By this time, the coolant level inside the coolant surge tank may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper mixture to the coolant surge tank until the level reaches about 4.5 inches (11.4 cm) from the top of the ﬁller neck. 5. Then replace the pressure cap. Be sure the arrow on the pressure cap lines up with the tube. 5-51 How to Check Power Steering Fluid 1. Turn the key off and let the engine compartment cool down. 2. Wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean. 3. Unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. 4. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. 5. Then remove the cap again and look at the ﬂuid level on the dipstick. The level should be at the FULL COLD mark. If necessary, add only enough ﬂuid to bring the level up to the mark. What to Use To determine what kind of ﬂuid to use, see Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-24. Always use the proper ﬂuid. Failure to use the proper ﬂuid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals. Start the engine and allow it to warm up. If the LOW ENGINE COOLANT message does not appear on the Driver Information Center (DIC), the coolant is at the proper ﬁll level. If a LOW ENGINE COOLANT message does appear, repeat Steps 1 to 3 then reinstall the pressure cap, or see your dealer. Power Steering Fluid The power steering ﬂuid reservoir is located in the rear of the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for reservoir location. When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering ﬂuid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A ﬂuid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. 5-52 Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer ﬂuid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a ﬂuid that has sufficient protection against freezing. Adding Washer Fluid The washer ﬂuid warning light will come on when the ignition switch is on and the ﬂuid container is less than one-third full. On vehicles with the optional Driver Information Center (DIC), a WASHER FLUID LOW message will be displayed and a chime will sound letting you know to add windshield washer ﬂuid to your vehicle. Notice: (cid:127) When using concentrated washer ﬂuid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water. (cid:127) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer ﬂuid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer ﬂuid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer ﬂuid. Fill your washer ﬂuid tank only three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full. (cid:127) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint. Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer ﬂuid until the tank is full. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for reservoir location. 5-53 (cid:127) Brakes Brake Fluid Your master cylinder reservoir is ﬁlled with DOT-3 brake ﬂuid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the reservoir. There are only two reasons why the brake ﬂuid level in the reservoir might go down. The ﬁrst is that the brake ﬂuid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the ﬂuid level goes back up. The other reason is that ﬂuid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system ﬁxed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes will not work well, or will not work at all. 5-54 So, it is not a good idea to top off your brake ﬂuid. Adding brake ﬂuid will not correct a leak. If you add ﬂuid when your linings are worn, then you will have too much ﬂuid when you get new brake linings. You should add or remove brake ﬂuid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system {CAUTION: If you have too much brake ﬂuid, it can spill on the engine. The ﬂuid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake ﬂuid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. When your brake ﬂuid falls to a low level, your brake warning light will come on. If your vehicle has the Driver Information Center, the BRAKE FLUID LOW message will also be displayed. A chime will sound if you try to drive with this warning light on. See Brake System Warning Light on page 3-41. What to Add When you do need brake ﬂuid, use only DOT-3 brake ﬂuid. Use new brake ﬂuid from a sealed container only. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-24. Always clean the brake ﬂuid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir. {CAUTION: With the wrong kind of ﬂuid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake ﬂuid. Notice: (cid:127) Using the wrong ﬂuid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of ﬂuid. If you spill brake ﬂuid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint ﬁnish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake ﬂuid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Appearance Care on page 5-101. 5-55 (cid:127) Brake Wear Your vehicle has four-wheel disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving, except when you are pushing on the brake pedal ﬁrmly. {CAUTION: The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced. Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair. Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are ﬁrst applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM torque speciﬁcations. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. See Brake System Inspection on page 6-24. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you apply the brakes, with or without the vehicle moving, your brakes adjust for wear. 5-56 Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system —for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you do not, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance you have come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts. Battery Your vehicle has a maintenance free battery. When it is time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco® replacement battery. Warning: Battery posts, terminals and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling. The battery is located under the rear seat cushion. To access the battery, see “Removing the Rear Seat Cushion” under Rear Underseat Fuse Block on page 5-116. You do not need to access the battery to jump start your vehicle. See Jump Starting (3.8L V6 Engine) on page 5-59 or Jump Starting (4.6L V8 Engine) on page 5-63. {CAUTION: A battery that is not properly vented can let sulfuric acid fumes into the area under the rear seat cushion. These fumes can damage your rear seat safety belt systems. You may not be able to see this damage, and the safety belts might not provide the protection needed in a crash. If a replacement battery is ever needed, it must be vented in the same manner as the original battery. Always make sure that the vent hose is properly reattached before reinstalling the seat cushion. 5-57 Vehicle Storage If you are not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down. {CAUTION: Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting (3.8L V6 Engine) on page 5-59 or Jump Starting (4.6L V8 Engine) on page 5-63 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt. Also, for your audio system, see Theft-Deterrent Feature on page 3-99. To be sure the vent hose (A) is properly attached, the vent hose connectors (B) must be securely reattached to the vent outlets (C) on each side of the battery, and the vent assembly grommet (D) must be secured to the ﬂoor pan (E). 5-58 Jump Starting (3.8L V6 Engine) If your battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely. {CAUTION: Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because: (cid:127) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:127) They contain gas that can explode or ignite. (cid:127) They contain enough electricity to burn you. If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you. Ignoring these steps could result in costly Notice: damage to your vehicle that would not be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage your vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt battery with a negative ground system. If the other vehicle’s system is not a 12-volt Notice: system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake ﬁrmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transaxle in PARK (P) or a manual transaxle in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake. If you leave your radio or other accessories Notice: on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and other accessories when jump starting your vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or the accessory power outlet. Turn off the radio and all lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save the radio! 5-59 4. Open the hood on the other vehicle and locate the positive (+) and negative (−) terminal locations on that vehicle. You will not see the battery of your vehicle under the hood. It is located under the rear passenger’s seat. You will not need to access the battery for jump starting. The remote positive (+) terminal is for that purpose. Open the hood on your vehicle and ﬁnd the remote positive (+) terminal located in the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. Access the remote positive (+) terminal by removing the cover. 5-60 {CAUTION: An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan. {CAUTION: Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a ﬂashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has ﬁller caps, be sure the right amount of ﬂuid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that ﬁrst. If you do not, explosive gas could be present. Battery ﬂuid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, ﬂush the place with water and get medical help immediately. {CAUTION: Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running. 5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks. 6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. 7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. 8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery. 9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable at least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less. 10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run the engine for a while. 11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery. If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service. 5-61 If the jumper cables are removed in the Notice: wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal. To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the vehicle that had the dead battery. 2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the vehicle with the good battery. 3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the vehicle with the good battery. 4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other vehicle. 5. Return the positive (+) remote terminal cover to its original position. Jumper Cable Removal A. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) or Remote Negative (−) Terminals C. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or Remote Negative (−) Terminal 5-62 Jump Starting (4.6L V8 Engine) If your battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely. {CAUTION: Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because: (cid:127) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:127) They contain gas that can explode or ignite. (cid:127) They contain enough electricity to burn you. If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you. Ignoring these steps could result in costly Notice: damage to your vehicle that would not be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage your vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt battery with a negative ground system. If the other vehicle’s system is not a 12-volt Notice: system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake ﬁrmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transaxle in PARK (P) or a manual transaxle in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake. If you leave your radio or other accessories Notice: on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and other accessories when jump starting your vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or the accessory power outlets. Turn off the radio and all lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save the radio! 5-63 4. Open the hoods and locate the positive (+) and negative (−) terminal locations on the other vehicle. You will not see the battery of your vehicle under the hood. It is located under the rear passenger’s seat. You will not need to access the battery for jump starting. Your vehicle has a remote positive (+) jump starting terminal and a remote negative (−) jump starting terminal. {CAUTION: An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan. The remote positive (+) terminal is located in the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. Lift the red plastic cap to access the terminal. The remote negative (−) terminal is located near the power steering ﬂuid reservoir. It is marked “GND (−).” 5-64 {CAUTION: Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a ﬂashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has ﬁller caps, be sure the right amount of ﬂuid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that ﬁrst. If you do not, explosive gas could be present. Battery ﬂuid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, ﬂush the place with water and get medical help immediately. {CAUTION: Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running. 5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks. 6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. 7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. 8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end of the cable touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery. 9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable at least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less. 5-65 Your vehicle has a remote negative (−) terminal marked GND (−). If the jumper cables are removed in the Notice: wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal. 10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run the engine for a while. 11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery. If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service. 5-66 Jumper Cable Removal A. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and Remote Negative (−) Terminals C. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or Remote Negative (−) Terminal (GND) To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the vehicle that had the dead battery. 2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the vehicle with the good battery. 3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the vehicle with the good battery. 4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other vehicle. 5. Return the remote positive (+) terminal cover to its original position. Bulb Replacement For the type of bulb to use, see Replacement Bulbs on page 5-72. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer. Halogen Bulbs {CAUTION: Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package. 5-67 Headlamps 1. Reach behind the headlamp assembly, push in and turn the bulb assembly counterclockwise to remove the bulb assembly from the headlamp assembly. 2. Lift the tabs to remove the bulb from the assembly. 3. Replace the bulb. 4. Push the bulb assembly in and turn it clockwise to install the bulb assembly into the headlamp assembly. 5-68 Front Turn Signal and Parking Lamps 4. Disconnect the wiring harness from the headlamp assembly. 1. Remove the two bolts. 2. Use a ﬂat tool by the outside mount to separate the lamp assembly from the outboard snap mounting pin. 3. Slide the headlamp assembly outward and lift it out. 5-69 5. Tip the headlamp assembly and while pressing the release, turn the bulb and socket counterclockwise to remove them. 6. Replace the bulb and reinstall the socket. Then reconnect the wiring harness to the lamp assembly. 7. Slide the lamp assembly back into place by lining up the track on the bottom of the assembly with the guide on the vehicle. Then connect the outboard snap and secure the lamp assembly with the two bolts. 5-70 Taillamps, Turn Signal, Stoplamps and Back-up Lamps 1. Open the trunk. See Trunk on page 2-15 for more information. 2. Turn the screws located inside of the trunk counterclockwise and remove them. 3. Remove the plastic trim piece from the trunk. 4. Pull the carpeting away from the rear corner of the trunk. A. Back-Up Lamp B. Turn Signal C. Taillamp D. Taillamp/Brake Lamp 5-71 Replacement Bulbs Exterior Lamp Back-Up Lamps Headlamps High-Beam Low-Beam Bulb Number 3057/3155* 9005 / HIR1* 9006 3157 5701KA* Parking/Turn Lamps Rear Turn Lamps Sidemarker Stoplamps Taillamps Turn Signal Bulb numbers denoted by an asterisk (*) only apply to the 4.6L V8 engine. 168* 3057 3057 3157 For replacement bulbs not listed here, contact your dealer. 5. Remove the three nuts holding the lamp in place and remove the lamp assembly. 6. Turn the bulb socket assembly counterclockwise while pressing the release, to remove it from the lamp assembly. 7. Pull the bulb straight out of the socket. 8. Replace the bulb and reverse Steps 1 through 6 to reinstall the lamp assembly. 5-72 Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected at least twice a year for wear or cracking. See Part B: Owner Checks and Services on page 6-19 for more information. For the proper windshield wiper blade replacement length and type, see Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 5-122. To replace the wiper blade assembly: 1. Lift the wiper up from the windshield and set into the vertically-locked position. 2. Press the tab that holds the wiper blade to the arm. 3. Slide the blade down and off the arm. 4. Slide in the new blade and snap into place. 5-73 CAUTION: (Continued) (cid:127) Underinﬂated tires pose the same danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold. (cid:127) Overinﬂated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured or broken by a sudden impact— such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure. (cid:127) Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If your tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them. See Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-80, for inﬂation pressure adjustment for high speed driving. Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your GM Warranty booklet for details. For additional information refer to the tire manufacturer’s booklet included with your vehicle’s owner’s manual. {CAUTION: (cid:127) Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous. (cid:127) Overloading your tires can cause overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-29. CAUTION: (Continued) 5-74 Tire Sidewall Labelling Useful information about a tire is molded into its sidewall. The examples below show a typical passenger vehicle tire and a compact spare tire sidewall. Passenger (P-Metric) Tire Example (A) Tire Size: The tire size is a combination of letters and numbers used to deﬁne a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail. (B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Speciﬁcation): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s speciﬁc tire performance criteria have a TPC speciﬁcation code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC speciﬁcations meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines. (C) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards. (D) Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT (Department of Transportation) code is the Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (E) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (F) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction and temperature resistance. For more information see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-87. (G) Maximum Cold Inﬂation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. 5-75 (B) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (C) Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following the DOT (Department of Transportation) code is the Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (D) Maximum Cold Inﬂation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. (E) Tire Inﬂation: The temporary use tire or compact spare tire should be inﬂated to 60 psi (420 kPa). For more information on tire pressure and inﬂation see Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-80. (F) Tire Size: A combination of letters and numbers deﬁne a tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type and service description. The letter T as the ﬁrst character in the tire size means the tire is for temporary use only. (G) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Speciﬁcation): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s speciﬁc tire performance criteria have a TPC speciﬁcation code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC speciﬁcations meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines. Compact Spare Tire Example (A) Temporary Use Only: The compact spare tire or temporary use tire has a tread life of approximately 3,000 miles (5 000 km) and should not be driven at speeds over 65 mph (105 km/h). The compact spare tire is for emergency use when a regular road tire has lost air and gone ﬂat. If your vehicle has a compact spare tire, see Compact Spare Tire on page 5-100 and If a Tire Goes Flat on page 5-92. 5-76 Tire Size The following illustration shows an example of a typical passenger vehicle tire size. (A) Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter P as the ﬁrst character in the tire size means a passenger vehicle tire engineered to standards set by the U.S. Tire and Rim Association. (B) Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall. (C) Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is 60, as shown in item C of the illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is 60 percent as high as it is wide. (D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter R means radial ply construction; the letter D means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter B means belted-bias ply construction. (E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches. (F) Service Description: These characters represent the load range and speed rating of the tire. The load index represents the load carry capacity a tire is certiﬁed to carry. The load index can range from 1 to 279. The speed rating is the maximum speed a tire is certiﬁed to carry a load. Speed ratings range from A to Z. Tire Terminology and Deﬁnitions Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or kiloPascal (kPa). Accessory Weight: This means the combined weight of optional accessories. Some examples of optional accessories are, automatic transmission, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air conditioning. 5-77 Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire’s height to its width. Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials. Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim. Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the plies are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. Cold Inﬂation Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up heat from driving. See Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-80. Curb Weight: This means the weight of a motor vehicle with standard and optional equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil and coolant, but without passengers and cargo. DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand and date of production. GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-29. GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front axle, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-29. GAWR RR: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-29. Intended Outboard Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire, that must always face outward when mounted on a vehicle. KiloPascal (kPa): The metric unit for air pressure. Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: A tire used on light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles. 5-78 Load Index: An assigned number ranging from 1 to 279 that corresponds to the load carrying capacity of a tire. Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: A tire used on passenger cars and some light duty trucks and multipurpose vehicles. Maximum Inﬂation Pressure: The maximum air pressure to which a cold tire may be inﬂated. The maximum air pressure is molded onto the sidewall. Maximum Load Rating: The load rating for a tire at the maximum permissible inﬂation pressure for that tire. Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight: The sum of curb weight; accessory weight; vehicle capacity weight; and production options weight. Normal Occupant Weight: The number of occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg).

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2005 Pontiac Bonneville Owners Manual