Download PDF Manual

later in this section for more information about the compact spare.

4. Unscrew the wing nuts to remove the container that

holds the wrench and jack.

5. Remove the wheel wrench, jack and the spare tire

from the trunk.

Removing Wheel Covers and Wheel Nut Caps

If you have steel wheels with full plastic wheel covers, loosen each nut cap using the wheel wrench.

The tools you’ll be using include the jack (A) and wheel wrench (B).

Please note that nut caps will not remove from the cover completely. Gently pry the wheel cover off using the flat end of the wheel wrench.


If you have aluminum wheels with plastic nut caps, loosen and remove them using the wheel wrench.

If you have aluminum wheels and a center cover hides the wheel nuts, remove the center cover by using the flat end of the wrench to pry it off.

Do not drop the cover or lay it face down, as it could become scratched or damaged. Do not use a hammer or mallet on this type of cover.


Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire

1. Use the wheel wrench to loosen the wheel nuts, but

don’t remove them.

2. Turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise to lower

the jack lift head until it fits under the vehicle.



Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack, you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack.


Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned can damage the vehicle and even make the vehicle fall. To help avoid personal injury and vehicle damage, be sure to fit the jack lift head into the proper location before raising the vehicle.

3. Put the jack head into a notch in the frame which is

located near each wheel well. The front notch is 11 inches (28 cm) back from the front wheel well. The rear notch is 3.5 inches (9 cm) forward from the rear wheel well.


4. Raise the vehicle by turning the wheel wrench clockwise. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so there is enough room for the spare tire to fit.

5. Remove all the wheel nuts and take off the flat tire.

6. Remove any rust or dirt

from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces and spare wheel.


Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from the places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off.



Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If you do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel could fall off, causing a serious accident.

7. Place the compact spare tire on the

wheel-mounting surface.

8. Then reinstall the wheel nuts with rounded end of the nuts toward the wheel.

Make sure each wheel bolt is centered in each wheel hole while tightening the nuts. Tighten each nut by hand until the wheel is held against the hub.


9. Lower the vehicle by turning the wheel wrench counterclockwise. Lower the jack completely.

10. Tighten the wheel

nuts firmly in a crisscross sequence.


Incorrect wheel nuts or improperly tightened wheel nuts can cause the wheel to become loose and even come off. This could lead to an accident. Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts. If you have to replace them, be sure to get new GM original equipment wheel nuts. Stop somewhere as soon as you can and have the nuts tightened with a torque wrench to 100 lb-ft (140 N·m).


Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque specification.

Don’t try to put the wheel cover on the compact spare tire. It won’t fit. Store the wheel cover in the trunk until you have replaced the compact spare tire with a regular tire.


Wheel covers won’t fit on your compact spare. If you try to put a wheel cover on your compact spare, you could damage the cover or the spare.

When you reinstall the full size wheel and tire, you install the wheel cover or nut caps at this point.


When reinstalling the full plastic wheel cover, align the valve stem with the opening.

When reinstalling the nut caps on aluminum wheels, tighten the caps snug with the wheel wrench.

Start the nut cap by pushing it onto the lug nut with the wheel wrench. Tighten the nut caps snug using the wheel wrench. Then continue tightening one-quarter turn. Do not overtighten.

Then continue tightening one-quarter turn for plastic caps, or one-eighth turn for steel caps. Do not overtighten.


When reinstalling the center cover, do not use a hammer or mallet, as they could damage the cover.

Storing the Flat Tire and Tools


Storing a jack, a tire or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place.

After you’ve put the compact spare tire on your vehicle, you’ll need to store the flat tire in your trunk. Store the flat tire as far forward in the trunk as possible. Store the jack and wheel wrench in their compartment in the trunk. For storage, the jack must be raised until the screw end is flush with the edge of the jack.


Storing the Spare Tire and Tools


Storing a jack, a tire or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place.

The compact spare is for temporary use only. Replace the compact spare tire with a full-size tire as soon as you can. See “Compact Spare Tire” later in this section. See the storing instructions label to replace your compact spare into your trunk properly.


Compact Spare Tire Although the compact spare tire was fully inflated when your vehicle was new, it can lose air after a time. Check the inflation pressure regularly. It should be 60 psi (420 kPa). After installing the compact spare on your vehicle, you should stop as soon as possible and make sure your spare tire is correctly inflated. The compact spare is made to perform well at speeds up to 65 mph (105 km/h) for distances up to 3,000 miles (5 000 km), so you can finish your trip and have your full-size tire repaired or replaced where you want. You must calibrate the Check Tire Pressure System after installing or removing the compact spare. See “Check Tire Pressure System” in the Index. Of course, it’s best to replace your spare with a full-size tire as soon as you can. Your spare will last longer and be in good shape in case you need it again.


When the compact spare is installed, don’t take your vehicle through an automatic vehicle wash with guide rails. The compact spare can get caught on the rails. That can damage the tire and wheel, and maybe other parts of your vehicle.

Don’t use your compact spare on other vehicles. And don’t mix your compact spare tire or wheel with other wheels or tires. They won’t fit. Keep your spare tire and its wheel together.


Tire chains won’t fit your compact spare. Using them can damage your vehicle and can damage the chains too. Don’t use tire chains on your compact spare.


If You’re Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you will need to spin the wheels, but you don’t want to spin your wheels too fast. The method known as “rocking” can help you get out when you’re stuck, but you must use caution.


If you let your tires spin at high speed, they can explode, and you or others could be injured. And, the transaxle or other parts of the vehicle can overheat. That could cause an engine compartment fire or other damage. When you’re stuck, spin the wheels as little as possible. Don’t spin the wheels above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.



Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting your transaxle back and forth, you can destroy your transaxle.

For information about using tire chains on your vehicle, see “Tire Chains” in the Index. Rocking Your Vehicle To Get It Out First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will clear the area around your front wheels. If your vehicle has traction control, you should turn the system off. (See “Traction Control System” in the Index.) Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transaxle is in gear. By slowly spinning your wheels in the forward and reverse directions, you will cause a rocking motion that may free your vehicle. If that doesn’t get you out after a few tries, you may need to be towed out. If you do need to be towed out, see “Towing Your Vehicle” in the Index.

Section 6 Service and Appearance Care

Here you will find information about the care of your vehicle. This section begins with service and fuel information, and then it shows how to check important fluid and lubricant levels. There is also technical information about your vehicle, and a part devoted to its appearance care.


Service Fuel Fuels in Foreign Countries Filling Your Tank Filling a Portable Fuel Container Checking Things Under the Hood Supercharged Engine (If Equipped) Engine Oil Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Supercharger Oil Automatic Transaxle Fluid Engine Coolant Radiator Pressure Cap Power Steering Fluid Windshield Washer Fluid Brakes Battery




Bulb Replacement Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Tires Appearance Care Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle Care of Safety Belts Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle Cleaning Aluminum or Chrome-Plated Wheels (If Equipped) Sheet Metal Damage GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) Electrical System Removing the Rear Seat Cushion Replacement Bulbs Capacities and Specifications Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts


Service Your dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you’ll go to your dealer for all your service needs. You’ll get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. We hope you’ll want to keep your GM vehicle all GM. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:

Doing Your Own Service Work If you want to do some of your own service work, you’ll want to use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see “Service and Owner Publications” in the Index. Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see “Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped Vehicle” in the Index. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See “Maintenance Record” in the Index.



You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it. D Be sure you have sufficient knowledge,

experience, the proper replacement parts and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task.

D Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts and other fasteners. “English” and “metric” fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.

Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airflow around it. This may cause wind noise and affect windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle.

Fuel The 8th digit of your vehicle identification number (VIN) shows the code letter for your engine. You will find the VIN at the top left of your instrument panel. (See “Vehicle Identification Number” in the Index.) If you have the 3800 V6 engine (VIN Code K), use regular unleaded gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher. If you’re using fuel rated at the recommended octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service. But don’t worry if you hear a little pinging noise when you’re accelerating or driving up a hill. That’s normal, and you don’t have to buy a higher octane fuel to get rid of pinging. It’s the heavy, constant knock that means you have a problem. If you have the 3800 Supercharged V6 engine (VIN Code 1), use premium unleaded gasoline rated at 91 octane or higher. With the 3800 Supercharged engine, in an emergency, you may be able to use a lower octane -- as low as 87 -- if heavy knocking does not occur. If you are using 91 or higher octane unleaded gasoline and you hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service.


It is recommended that the gasoline meet specifications which have been developed by the American Automobile Manufacturers Association (AAMA) and endorsed by the Canadian Motor Vehicle Manufacturers Association for better vehicle performance and engine protection. Gasolines meeting the AAMA specification could provide improved driveability and emission control system performance compared to other gasolines. Be sure the posted octane for premium is at least 91 (at least 87 for regular). If the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If it’s bad enough, it can damage your engine. If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emission Standards (indicated on the underhood emission control label), it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. If such fuels are not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp on your instrument panel may turn on and/or your vehicle may fail a smog-check test. (See “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index.) If this occurs, return to your authorized Pontiac dealer for diagnosis to determine the cause of failure. In the event it is determined that the cause of the condition is the type of fuels used, repairs may not be covered by your warranty. 6-4

Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask your service station operator whether or not the fuel contains MMT. General Motors does not recommend the use of such gasolines. If fuels containing MMT are used, spark plug life may be reduced and your emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp on your instrument panel may turn on. If this occurs, return to your authorized Pontiac dealer for service. To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that will help prevent deposits from forming in your engine and fuel system, allowing your emission control system to function properly. Therefore, you should not have to add anything to the fuel. In addition, gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in your area to contribute to clean air. General Motors recommends that you use these gasolines, particularly if they comply with the specifications described earlier.


Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Don’t use it. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage wouldn’t be covered under your warranty.

Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. To check on fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you’ll be driving. You can also write us at the following address for advice. Just tell us where you’re going and give your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN).

General Motors Overseas Distribution Corporation 1908 Colonel Sam Drive Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7

Filling Your Tank


Gasoline vapor is highly flammable. It burns violently, and that can cause very bad injuries. Don’t smoke if you’re near gasoline or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, flames and smoking materials away from gasoline.

The cap is behind a hinged door on the driver’s side of your vehicle.



If you get gasoline on yourself and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. Gasoline can spray out on you if you open the fuel filler cap too quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel filler cap slowly and wait for any “hiss” noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.

Be careful not to spill gasoline. Clean gasoline from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See “Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle” in the Index. When you put the cap back on, turn it to the right (clockwise) until you hear a clicking sound. Make sure you fully install the cap. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index.

While refueling, hang the tethered cap on the hook on the inside of the fuel door. To remove the cap, turn it slowly to the left (counterclockwise). The cap has a spring in it; if you let go of the cap too soon, it will spring back to the right.



If you need a new cap, be sure to get the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and your fuel tank and emissions system may be damaged. See “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index.

Fuel Door Lock (Option) On models equipped with the theft-deterrent system, the fuel door is locked and unlocked together with the driver’s power door lock. Therefore, to unlock the fuel filler door, you may use the inside power door lock button or the remote keyless entry transmitter (if equipped). To unlock the fuel door, unlock the driver’s door.

If your vehicle has a fuel door lock, the fuel door can be opened manually in case of an electrical power failure.

Open the trunk. The release mechanism is on the driver’s side of the vehicle, at the top of the trunk compartment. Pull the tab to release the fuel door.


Prying on a locked fuel filler door can damage it. Use the remote fuel door manual release located in the trunk.


Filling a Portable Fuel Container


Never fill a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others: D Dispense gasoline only into

approved containers.

D Do not fill a container while it is inside a

vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed or on any surface other than the ground. D Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the

inside of the fill opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the filling is complete.

D Don’t smoke while pumping gasoline.

Checking Things Under the Hood The following sections tell you how to check fluids, lubricants and important underhood parts.


An electric fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.


Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like gasoline, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.


Hood Release

1. To open the hood, first pull the hood release handle inside the vehicle. It is next to the parking brake pedal near the floor.

2. Then go to the front of the vehicle and push up on

the secondary hood release.

3. Lift the hood. 4. Before closing the hood, be sure all the filler caps are

on properly. Then pull the hood down and close it firmly.


3800 V6 Series II Engine (L36) When you open the hood on the 3800 (L36) engine, here’s what you will see (3800 Supercharged (L67) engine similar):

A. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank B. Power Steering Fluid C. Automatic Transaxle Fluid Dipstick D. Brake Master Cylinder E. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir 6-10

F. Radiator Pressure Cap G. Engine Oil Dipstick H. Engine Oil Fill Cap I. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter

Supercharged Engine (If Equipped) Your vehicle may have a 3800 V6 (L67) Supercharged engine. The supercharger is a device designed to pump more air into the engine than it would normally use. This air, mixed with fuel, creates increased engine power. Since the supercharger is a pump and is driven from an engine accessory drive belt, increased pressure is available at all driving conditions. The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) works with a vacuum control to regulate the increased pressure required during specific driving conditions. When this increased pressure or boost is not desired, such as during idling and light throttle cruising, the excess air that the supercharger is pumping is routed through a bypass. All of these controls, working together, provide high performance character and fuel efficiency in the 3800 V6 Supercharged engine. Engine Oil

For more information, see “Check Oil Level Light” or “DIC Warnings and Messages” in the Index. You should check your engine oil level regularly; this is an added reminder. Checking Engine Oil It’s a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.

The engine oil dipstick is located behind the engine fans and in front of the engine oil fill cap. The top of the dipstick is a round yellow loop.

If the OIL LEVEL LOW message appears on the DIC, or the CHECK OIL LEVEL light appears on the instrument panel, it means you need to check your engine oil level right away.

Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you don’t, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.


Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.


Don’t add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged.

Add engine oil at the engine oil fill cap near the oil dipstick.

Be sure to fill it enough to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you’re through.

When to Add Engine Oil If the oil is at or below the ADD mark, then you’ll need to add at least one quart of oil. But you must use the right kind. This part explains what kind of oil to use. For crankcase capacity, see “Capacities and Specifications” in the Index.


What Kind of Engine Oil to Use Oils recommended for your vehicle can be identified by looking for the starburst symbol. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API). Do not use any oil which does not carry this starburst symbol.

If you change your own oil, be sure you use oil that has the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. If you have your oil changed for you, be sure the oil put into your engine is American Petroleum Institute certified for gasoline engines.

You should also use the proper viscosity oil for your vehicle, as shown in the following chart:


As shown in the chart, SAE 10W-30 is best for your vehicle. However, you can use SAE 5W-30 if it’s going to be colder than 60_F (16_C) before your next oil change. When it’s very cold, you should use SAE 5W-30. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils, such as SAE 20W-50.


Use only engine oil with the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty.

GM GoodwrenchR oil meets all the requirements for your vehicle. If you are in an area where the temperature falls below -20_F (-29_C), consider using either an SAE 5W-30
synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both will provide easier cold starting and better protection for your engine at extremely low temperatures.


Engine Oil Additives Don’t add anything to your oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol are all you will need for good performance and engine protection. When to Change Engine Oil (Vehicles Without the GM Oil Life Systemt) If any one of these is true for you, use the short trip/city maintenance schedule: D Most trips are less than 5 to 10 miles (8 to 16 km).

This is particularly important when outside temperatures are below freezing.

D Most trips include extensive idling (such as frequent

driving in stop-and-go traffic).

D Most trips are through dusty areas. D You frequently tow a trailer or use a carrier on top of

your vehicle.

D The vehicle is used for delivery service, police, taxi

or other commercial application.

Driving under these conditions causes engine oil to break down sooner. If any one of these is true for your vehicle, then you need to change your oil and filter every 3,000 miles (5 000 km) or 3 months -- whichever occurs first.

If none of them is true, use the long trip/highway maintenance schedule. Change the oil and filter every 7,500 miles (12 500 km) or 12 months -- whichever occurs first. Driving a vehicle with a fully warmed engine under highway conditions causes engine oil to break down slower. When to Change Engine Oil (Vehicles With the GM Oil Life Systemt Option) If so equipped, your vehicle has a computer that lets you know when to change your engine oil. This is not based on mileage, but on engine revolutions and engine operating temperature. When the computer has calculated that the oil needs changing, the GM Oil Life Systemt will indicate that a change is necessary. The mileage between oil and filter changes will vary depending on how you drive your vehicle -- usually between 3,000 miles (5 000 km) and 7,500 miles (12 500 km) since your last oil and filter change. Under severe conditions, the system may come on before 3,000 miles (5 000 km). Never drive your vehicle more than 7,500 miles (12 500 km) or 12 months (whichever occurs first) without an oil change. The system won’t detect dust in the oil. So, if you drive in a dusty area, be sure to change your oil and filter every 3,000 miles (5 000 km) or sooner. Remember to reset the Oil Life System whenever the oil is changed.

How to Reset the Oil Life System (If Equipped) Always reset the engine oil life to 100% after every oil change. It will not reset itself. To reset the Oil Life System, press and hold the RESET button for more than five seconds while the OIL LIFE is being displayed on the DIC. The oil life will change to 100%. What to Do with Used Oil Did you know that used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer? Don’t let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly throw away clothing or rags containing used engine oil. (See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products.) Used oil can be a real threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all free-flowing oil from the filter before disposal. Don’t ever dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help.


Engine Air Cleaner/Filter The air cleaner/filter is on the driver’s side of the engine compartment. To check or replace the air cleaner/filter:

1. Loosen the two clips on top of the air cleaner

housing and lift the filter cover tabs out of the housing.

2. Push the filter housing cover toward the engine,

compressing the hose.


3. Pull out the filter. 4. Replace the air filter and make sure the filter cover

tabs position through the slots in the housing. A notch on the sides of the filter cover will indicate the correct engagement.

5. Fasten the two clips on the top of the housing when

you are finished.

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to replace the air filter. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.


Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air, it stops flame if the engine backfires. If it isn’t there, and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Don’t drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.


If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you’re driving.

Passenger Compartment Air Filter (If Equipped) If your vehicle has this feature, the outside air entering the vehicle is routed through a filter. The filter removes certain particles from the air, including pollen and dust particles. Reductions in airflow, which may occur more quickly in dusty areas, indicate that the filter needs to be replaced early.

The particle filter is located under a removeable panel located at the base of the windshield on the passenger’s side.

The filter should be replaced as part of the routine scheduled maintenance. See “Maintenance Schedule” in the Index for replacement intervals. See your dealer for details on changing the filter. Once you remove your filter, if you choose not to replace it, it will not damage your vehicle. However, the air will no longer be filtered.


Supercharger Oil

Unless you are technically qualified and have the proper tools, you should let your dealer or a qualified service center perform this maintenance.

How to Check and Add Oil Check oil only when the engine is cold. Allow the engine to cool two to three hours after running.


If you remove the supercharger oil fill plug while the engine is hot, pressure may cause hot oil to blow out of the oil fill hole. You may be burned. Do not remove the plug until the engine cools.

When to Check Check oil level every 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or every 36 months, whichever occurs first. What Kind of Oil to Use Use only the recommended supercharger oil. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.

1. Clean the area around the oil fill plug before

removing it.

2. Remove the oil fill plug using a 3/16 inch

Allen wrench.

3. The oil level is correct when it just reaches the

bottom of the threads of the inspection hole.

4. Replace the oil plug with the O-ring in place.

Torque to 88 lb-in (10 N·m).


Automatic Transaxle Fluid When to Check and Change A good time to check your automatic transaxle fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change both the fluid and filter every 50,000 miles (83 000 km) if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions: D In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature

regularly reaches 90_F (32_C) or higher.

D In hilly or mountainous terrain. D When doing frequent trailer towing. D Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service. If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, change the fluid and filter at 100,000 miles (166 000 km). See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index. How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.


Too much or too little fluid can damage your transaxle. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transaxle fluid.

Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transaxle fluid level if you have been driving: D When outside temperatures are above 90_F (32_C). D At high speed for quite a while. D In heavy traffic -- especially in hot weather. D While pulling a trailer. To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180_F to 200_F (82_C to 93_C). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50_F (10_C). If it’s colder than 50_F (10_C), you may have to drive longer.


Checking the Fluid Level Prepare your vehicle as follows: D Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the

engine running.

D With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever

in PARK (P).

D With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P).

D Let the engine run at idle for three to five minutes.

Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:

The transaxle fluid dipstick top is a round, red loop and is located next to the brake master cylinder behind the engine block.

1. Pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or

paper towel.

2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and

then pull it back out again.


1. Pull out the dipstick. 2. Using a long-neck funnel, add enough fluid at the

dipstick hole to bring it to the proper level. It doesn’t take much fluid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Don’t overfill.


We recommend you use only fluid labeled DEXRONR-III, because fluid with that label is made especially for your automatic transaxle. Damage caused by fluid other than DEXRONR-III is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

3. After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as

described under “How to Check.”

4. When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the

dipstick back in all the way.


3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the

lower level. The fluid level must be in the cross-hatched area.

4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the

dipstick back in all the way.

How to Add Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transaxle fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level into the cross-hatched area on the dipstick.

Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with DEX-COOLR engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for 5 years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if you add only DEX-COOLR extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see “Engine Overheating” in the Index. A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOLR coolant will: D Give freezing protection down to -34_F (-37_C). D Give boiling protection up to 265_F (129_C). D Protect against rust and corrosion. D Help keep the proper engine temperature. D Let the warning lights and gages work as

they should.


When adding coolant, it is important that you use only DEX-COOLR (silicate-free) coolant. If coolant other than DEX-COOL is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine coolant will require change sooner -- at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Damage caused by the use of coolant other than DEX-COOLR is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOLR coolant which won’t damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you don’t need to add anything else.



Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid like alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOLR coolant.


If you use an improper coolant mixture, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts.

If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system.


If you use the proper coolant, you don’t have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful.

Checking Coolant

The engine coolant recovery tank is located on the passenger’s side of the engine compartment, near the windshield.

The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the FULL COLD mark or a little higher. When your engine is warm, the level should be up to the FULL HOT mark or a little higher.


Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOLR coolant mixture at the coolant recovery tank, but be careful not to spill it.

Occasionally check the coolant level in the radiator. For information on how to add coolant to the radiator, see “Cooling System” in the Index. Radiator Pressure Cap



Turning the radiator pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. With the coolant recovery tank, you will almost never have to add coolant at the radiator. Never turn the radiator pressure cap -- even a little -- when the engine and radiator are hot.

Your radiator cap is a 15 psi (105 kPa) pressure-type cap and must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss and possible engine damage from overheating. Be sure the arrows on the cap line up with the overflow tube on the radiator filler neck.


You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.


Power Steering Fluid

The power steering fluid reservoir is located on the rear passenger side of the engine compartment. When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.

How to Check Power Steering Fluid Turn the key off, let the engine compartment cool down, wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean, then unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. Then remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on the dipstick. The level should be at the FULL COLD mark. If necessary, add only enough fluid to bring the level up to the mark. What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals. Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing.


Adding Washer Fluid The washer fluid warning light will come on when the ignition switch is ON and the fluid container is less than one-third full. On vehicles with the optional Driver Information Center (DIC), a WASHER FLUID LOW message will be displayed and a chime will sound letting you know to add windshield washer fluid to your vehicle.

Open the cap labeled WASHER FLUID. Add washer fluid until the tank is full.


D When using concentrated washer fluid,

follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.

D Don’t mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water doesn’t clean as well as washer fluid.

D Fill your washer fluid tank only

three-quarters full when it’s very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.

D Don’t use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.


Brakes Brake Fluid

Your brake master cylinder reservoir is on the driver’s side of the engine compartment. It is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid.

There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes won’t work well, or won’t work at all. So, it isn’t a good idea to “top off” your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid won’t correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you’ll have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add (or remove) brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.


If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.


When your brake fluid falls to a low level, your brake warning light will come on. If your vehicle has the Driver Information Center, the BRAKE FLUID LOW message will also be displayed. A chime will sound if you try to drive with this warning light on. See “Brake System Warning Light” in the Index.

What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. Refer to “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Maintenance Schedule. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.


With the wrong kind of fluid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.



D Using the wrong fluid can badly damage

brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they’ll have to be replaced. Don’t let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid.

D If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See “Appearance Care” in the Index.

Brake Wear Your vehicle has four-wheel disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving (except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly).


The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes won’t work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.


Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair.

Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. See “Caliper/Knuckle Maintenance Inspection” in Section 7 of this manual under Part C “Periodic Maintenance Inspections.”

Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly torque wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM specifications. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. See “Brake System Inspection” in Section 7 of this manual under Part C “Periodic Maintenance Inspections.” Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you apply the brakes, with or without the vehicle moving, your brakes adjust for wear.


Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system -- for example, when your brake linings wear down and you have to have new ones put in -- be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you don’t, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change -- for the worse. The braking performance you’ve come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts. Battery Your new vehicle comes with a maintenance free ACDelcoR battery. When it’s time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco battery.

The battery is located under the rear seat cushion. To access the battery, see “Removing the Rear Seat Cushion” in the Index. You don’t need to access the battery to jump start your vehicle. See “Jump Starting” in the Index.


A battery that isn’t properly vented can let sulfuric acid fumes into the area under the rear seat cushion. These fumes can damage your rear seat safety belt systems. You may not be able to see this damage, and the safety belts might not provide the protection needed in a crash. If a replacement battery is ever needed, it must be vented in the same manner as the original battery. Always make sure that the vent hose is properly reattached before reinstalling the seat cushion.


To be sure the vent hose (A) is properly attached, the vent hose connectors (B) must be securely reattached to the vent outlets (C) on each side of the battery, and the vent assembly grommet (D) must be secured to the floor pan (E).

Vehicle Storage If you’re not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (-) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.


Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you aren’t careful. See “Jump Starting” in the Index for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.

Contact your dealer to learn how to prepare your vehicle for longer storage periods. Also, for your audio system, see “Theft-Deterrent Feature” in the Index.


Bulb Replacement For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer’s service department. Halogen Bulbs


Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.

If you go through a high pressure car wash, or it is very humid, your headlamps may “fog up.” This is normal. The lenses should clear by themselves in time.


Headlamps For the proper bulb type, see “Replacement Bulbs” in the Index.

1. Reach behind the headlamp assembly, push in and turn the bulb assembly counterclockwise to remove the bulb assembly from the headlamp assembly.

Headlamp Aiming

2. Lift the tabs to remove the bulb from the assembly. 3. Replace the bulb. Push the bulb assembly in and turn

it clockwise to install the bulb assembly into the headlamp assembly.

Your vehicle has a visual optical headlamp aiming system equipped with horizontal aim indicators. The aim has been pre-set at the factory and should need no further adjustment. This is true even though your horizontal aim indicators may not fall exactly on the “0” (zero) marks on their scales.


If your vehicle is damaged in an accident, the headlamp aim may be affected. Aim adjustment to the low beam may be necessary if it is difficult to see lane markers (for horizontal aim), or if oncoming drivers flash their high beams at you (for vertical aim). If you believe your headlamps need to be re-aimed, we recommend that you take your vehicle to your dealer for service. However, it is possible for you to re-aim your headlamps as described in the following procedure.


To make sure your headlamps are aimed properly, read all the instructions before beginning. Failure to follow these instructions could cause damage to headlamp parts.

The vehicle should be properly prepared as follows: D The vehicle should be placed so the headlamps are

25 ft. (7.6 m) from a light colored wall or other flat surface.

D The vehicle must have all four tires on a perfectly

level surface which is level all the way to the wall or other flat surface.

D The vehicle should be placed so it is perpendicular to

the wall or other flat surface.

D The vehicle should not have any snow, ice or mud

attached to it.

D The vehicle should be fully assembled and all other work stopped while headlamp aiming is being done.

D The vehicle should be normally loaded with a full

tank of fuel and one person or 160 lbs. (75 kg) on the driver’s seat.

D Tires should be properly inflated. Headlamp aiming is done with the vehicle low beam lamps. The high beam lamps will be correctly aimed if the low beam lamps are aimed properly. The headlamp aiming devices are under the hood near the headlamps.


Headlamp Horizontal Aiming Turn the horizontal aiming screw (A) until the indicator (B) is lined up with zero.

If you believe your headlamps need horizontal (left/right) adjustment, follow the horizontal aiming procedure. If you believe your headlamps need only vertical (up/down) adjustment, follow only the vertical aiming procedure. Adjustment screws can be turned with an E8 TorxR socket or T15 Torx screwdriver.

Once the horizontal aim is adjusted, then adjust the vertical aim.


Headlamp Vertical Aiming 1. Find the aim dot on the lens of the lamps.

2. Measure the distance from the ground to the aim dot on each lamp; if left low beam, subtract two inches. Record this distance.

3. At the wall or other flat surface, measure from the

floor to the recorded distance and draw a horizontal line the width of the vehicle.

4. Turn on the low beam headlamps and cover the lamp not being evaluated. The ambient light should allow the beam cut off to be seen on the wall.


5. Turn the vertical aiming screw (C) until the

headlamp beam is aimed to the horizontal line. It is recommended to cover the lamp that is not being evaluated to better see the beam being aimed.


Front Turn Signals and Parking Lamps

1. Remove the two bolts with a 10 mm socket. 2. Use a large screwdriver by the outside mount to

separate the lamp assembly from the outboard snap mounting pin. Slide the headlamp assembly outward and lift it out.

3. Disconnect the wiring harness from the

headlamp assembly.


4. Tip the headlamp assembly and while pressing the

release, turn the bulb and socket counterclockwise to remove them.

5. Replace the bulb and socket. Then reconnect the

wiring harness to the lamp assembly.

6. Slide the lamp assembly back into place by lining up

the track on the bottom of the assembly with the guide on the vehicle. Then connect the outboard snap and secure the lamp assembly with the two bolts.


Rear Turn Signals, Stoplamps, Taillamps and Back-up Lamps For the proper bulb type, see “Replacement Bulbs” in the Index.

1. Open the trunk. Turn the screws located inside of the

trunk counterclockwise and remove them.

2. Remove the plastic trim piece from the trunk. 3. Pull the carpeting away from the rear corner of the trunk.

A. Back-up Lamp B. Turn Signal C. Tail Lamp D. Tail/Brake Lamp


4. Remove the three 10 mm nuts holding the lamp in

place and remove the lamp assembly.

5. While pressing the release, turn the bulb socket assembly counterclockwise to remove it from the lamp assembly. 6. Pull the bulb straight out to remove it from the socket. 7. Replace the bulb and reverse the steps to reinstall the

lamp assembly.

Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected at least twice a year for wear or cracking. See “Wiper Blade Check” in the Index for more information.

To replace the wiper blade assembly: 1. Lift the wiper up from the windshield and set into

the vertically-locked position.

2. Press the tab that holds the wiper blade to the arm. 3. Slide the blade down and off the arm. 4. Slide in the new blade and snap into place. For the proper windshield wiper blade replacement length and type, see “Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts” in the Index.


Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your Pontiac Warranty booklet for details.


Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous. D Overloading your tires can cause

overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index.

CAUTION: (Continued)

CAUTION: (Continued)

D Underinflated tires pose the same danger as

overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold.

D Overinflated tires are more likely to be

cut, punctured or broken by a sudden impact -- such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure.

D Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If your

tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them.

Inflation -- Tire Pressure The Tire-Loading Information label, which is on the rear edge of the driver’s door, shows the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they’re cold. “Cold” means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km).



Don’t let anyone tell you that underinflation or overinflation is all right. It’s not. If your tires don’t have enough air (underinflation), you can get the following: D Too much flexing D Too much heat D Tire overloading D Bad wear D Bad handling D Bad fuel economy. If your tires have too much air (overinflation), you can get the following: D Unusual wear D Bad handling D Rough ride D Needless damage from road hazards.

When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Don’t forget your compact spare tire. It should be at 60 psi (420 kPa).

How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You can’t tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they’re underinflated. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture. Check Tire Pressure System The check tire pressure system can alert you to a large change in the pressure of one tire. The system won’t alert you before you drive that a tire is low or flat. You must begin driving before the system will work properly.


The CHECK TIRE PRESSURE message will appear on the Driver Information Center (DIC) and the systems monitor TIRE PRESS light will come on if pressure difference (low pressure) is detected in one tire. The check tire pressure system may not alert you if: D more than one tire is low, D the vehicle is moving faster than 65 mph (105 km/h), D the system is not yet calibrated, D the tire treadwear is uneven, D the compact spare tire is installed, D tire chains are being used, or D the vehicle is being driven on a rough or frozen road. If the anti-lock brake system warning light comes on, the check tire pressure system may not be working properly. See your dealer for service. (Also, see “Anti-Lock Brake System Warning Light” in the Index.) The check tire pressure system detects differences in tire rotation speeds that are caused by changes in tire pressure. The system can alert you about a low tire -- but it doesn’t replace normal tire maintenance. See “Tires” in the Index.

When the CHECK TIRE PRESSURE message appears on the Driver Information Center and the systems monitor TIRE PRESS light comes on, you should stop as soon as you can and check all your tires for damage. (If a tire is flat, see “If a Tire Goes Flat” in the Index.) Also check the tire pressure in all four tires as soon as you can. See “Inflation-Tire Pressure” in the Index. Any time you adjust a tire’s pressure or have one or more tires repaired or replaced, you’ll need to reset (calibrate) the check tire pressure system. You’ll also need to reset the system whenever you rotate the tires, buy new tires, install or remove the compact spare, and whenever the vehicle’s battery has been disconnected. Don’t reset the check tire pressure system without first correcting the cause of the problem and checking and adjusting the pressure in all four tires. If you reset the system when the tire pressures are incorrect, the check tire pressure system will not work properly and may not alert you when a tire is low or high. To reset (calibrate) the system: 1. Turn the ignition switch to RUN. 2. Using the MODE and SELECT buttons, change the


3. Press and hold the RESET button for about five seconds.


4. The display should change to read TIRE PRESSURE

RESET. If TIRE PRESSURE RESET does not appear on the display after about five seconds, see your dealer for service.

5. When you release the button after seeing the TIRE

PRESSURE RESET message, the display will change to read TIRE PRESSURE NORMAL.

To reset (calibrate) the system with a systems monitor: D Turn the ignition switch to RUN. D Press and hold the TIRE PRESS RESET button for

about five seconds.

D The TIRE PRESS light on the systems monitor

should begin to flash. If the TIRE PRESS light does not begin to flash after about five seconds, see your dealer for service.

D Release the TIRE PRESS RESET button and the

system should reset (the TIRE PRESS telltale light goes out).

The system completes the calibration process during driving. Calibration time can take 45 to 90 minutes, depending on your driving habits. After the system has been calibrated, the system will alert the driver that a tire is low, up to a maximum speed of 65 mph (105 km/h).

Tire Inspection and Rotation Tires should be rotated every 6,000 to 8,000 miles (10 000 to 13 000 km). Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See “When It’s Time for New Tires” and “Wheel Replacement” later in this section for more information. The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The first rotation is the most important. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index for scheduled rotation intervals.

When rotating your tires, always use the correct rotation pattern shown here.


Don’t include the compact spare tire in your tire rotation. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the Tire-Loading Information label. Reset the Check Tire Pressure System. See “Check Tire Pressure System” in the Index. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” in the Index.


Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off. (See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index.)


When It’s Time for New Tires

One way to tell when it’s time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining.

You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true: D You can see the indicators at three or more places

around the tire.

D You can see cord or fabric showing through the

tire’s rubber.

D The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged deep

enough to show cord or fabric.

D The tire has a bump, bulge or split. D The tire has a puncture, cut or other damage that

can’t be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage.

Buying New Tires To find out what kind and size of tires you need, look at the Tire-Loading Information label. The tires installed on your vehicle when it was new had a Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC Spec) number on each tire’s sidewall. When you get new tires, get ones with that same TPC Spec number. That way your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give proper endurance, handling, speed rating, traction, ride and other things during normal service on your vehicle. If your tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC number will be followed by an “MS” (for mud and snow). If you ever replace your tires with those not having a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating and construction type (bias, bias-belted or radial) as your original tires.


Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes or types (radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the same size and type tires on all wheels. It’s all right to drive with your compact spare, though. It was developed for use on your vehicle.


If you use bias-ply tires on your vehicle, the wheel rim flanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle.


Uniform Tire Quality Grading The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, which grades tires by treadwear, traction and temperature performance. (This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.) The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to Federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards.

Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1 1/2) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction -- AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics.


Temperature -- A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure. Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance.

Scheduled wheel alignment and wheel balancing are not needed. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling one way or the other, the alignment may need to be reset. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your wheels may need to be rebalanced. Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked, or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your dealer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need. Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces. If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for your vehicle.


Used Replacement Wheels


Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is dangerous. You can’t know how it’s been used or how far it’s been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause an accident. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new GM original equipment wheel.

Tire Chains


If your vehicle has P235/55R17 size tires, don’t use tire chains. They can damage your vehicle because there’s not enough clearance.

NOTICE: (Continued)


Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for replacement.


The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis.

See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index for more information.


NOTICE: (Continued)

Use another type of traction device only if its manufacturer recommends it for use on your vehicle and tire size combination and road conditions. Follow that manufacturer’s instructions. To help avoid damage to your vehicle, drive slowly, readjust or remove the device if it’s contacting your vehicle, and don’t spin your wheels. If you do find traction devices that will fit, install them on the front tires. If you have other tires, use tire chains only where legal and only when you must. Use only SAE Class “S” type chains that are the proper size for your tires. Install them on the front tires and tighten them as tightly as possible with the ends securely fastened. Drive slowly and follow the chain manufacturer’s instructions. If you can hear the chains contacting your vehicle, stop and retighten them. If the contact continues, slow down until it stops. Driving too fast or spinning the wheels with chains on will damage your vehicle.

Appearance Care Remember, cleaning products can be hazardous. Some are toxic. Others can burst into flame if you strike a match or get them on a hot part of the vehicle. Some are dangerous if you breathe their fumes in a closed space. When you use anything from a container to clean your vehicle, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s warnings and instructions. And always open your doors or windows when you’re cleaning the inside. Never use these to clean your vehicle: D Gasoline D Benzene D Naphtha D Carbon Tetrachloride D Acetone D Paint Thinner D Turpentine D Lacquer Thinner D Nail Polish Remover They can all be hazardous -- some more than others -- and they can all damage your vehicle, too.


Don’t use any of these unless this manual says you can. In many uses, these will damage your vehicle: D Alcohol D Laundry Soap D Bleach D Reducing Agents Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle Use a vacuum cleaner often to get rid of dust and loose dirt. Wipe vinyl, leather, plastic and painted surfaces with a clean, damp cloth. Cleaning of Fabric/Carpet Your dealer has two cleaners, Multi-Purpose Interior Cleaner and Capture Non-Solvent Dry Spot and Soil Remover for cleaning fabric and carpet. They will clean normal spots and stains very well. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. (See “Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index.) Here are some cleaning tips: D Always read the instructions on the cleaner label. D Clean up stains as soon as you can -- before they set.


D Carefully scrape off any excess stain. D Use a clean cloth or sponge, and change to a clean

area often. A soft brush may be used if stains are stubborn.

D If a ring forms on fabric after spot cleaning, clean the

entire area immediately or it will set.

Using Multi-Purpose Interior Cleaner on Fabric 1. Vacuum and brush the area to remove any loose dirt. 2. Always clean a whole trim panel or section. Mask

surrounding trim along stitch or welt lines.

3. Mix powdered cleaner following the directions on

the container label to form thick suds.

4. Use suds only and apply with a clean sponge. Don’t

saturate the material and don’t rub it roughly.

5. As soon as you’ve cleaned the section, use a sponge

to remove the suds.

6. Wipe cleaned area with a clean, damp towel or cloth. 7. Wipe with a clean cloth and let dry.

Special Fabric Cleaning Problems Stains caused by such things as catsup, coffee (black), egg, fruit, fruit juice, milk, soft drinks, vomit, urine and blood can be removed as follows: 1. Carefully scrape off excess stain, then sponge the

soiled area with cool water.

2. If a stain remains, follow the multi-purpose interior

cleaner instructions described earlier.

3. If an odor lingers after cleaning vomit or urine, treat the area with a water/baking soda solution: 1 teaspoon (5 ml) of baking soda to 1 cup (250 ml) of lukewarm water.

4. Let dry. Stains caused by candy, ice cream, mayonnaise, chili sauce and unknown stains can be removed as follows: 1. Carefully scrape off excess stain. 2. First, clean with cool water and allow to

dry completely.

3. If a stain remains, follow instructions for

Multi-Purpose Interior Cleaner.

Cleaning Vinyl Use warm water and a clean cloth. D Rub with a clean, damp cloth to remove dirt.

You may have to do it more than once.

D Things like tar, asphalt and shoe polish will stain if

you don’t get them off quickly. Use a clean cloth and a vinyl/leather cleaner. See your dealer for this product.

Cleaning Leather Use a soft cloth with lukewarm water and a mild soap or saddle soap and wipe dry with a soft cloth. Then, let the leather dry naturally. Do not use heat to dry. D For stubborn stains, use a leather cleaner. See your

dealer for this product.

D Never use oils, varnishes, solvent-based or abrasive cleaners, furniture polish or shoe polish on leather.

D Soiled or stained leather should be cleaned

immediately. If dirt is allowed to work into the finish, it can harm the leather.


Cleaning Glass Surfaces Glass should be cleaned often. GM Glass Cleaner or a liquid household glass cleaner will remove normal tobacco smoke and dust films on interior glass. (See “Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index.) Don’t use abrasive cleaners on glass, because they may cause scratches. Avoid placing decals on the inside rear window, since they may have to be scraped off later. If abrasive cleaners are used on the inside of the rear window, an electric defogger element may be damaged. Any temporary license should not be attached across the defogger grid. Cleaning the Outside of the Windshield and Wiper Blades If the windshield is not clear after using the windshield washer, or if the wiper blade chatters when running, wax, sap or other material may be on the blade or windshield.

Cleaning the Top of the Instrument Panel Use only mild soap and water to clean the top surfaces of the instrument panel. Sprays containing silicones or waxes may cause annoying reflections in the windshield and even make it difficult to see through the windshield under certain conditions. Cleaning Interior Plastic Components Use only a mild soap and water solution on a soft cloth or sponge. Commercial cleaners may affect the surface finish. Care of Safety Belts Keep belts clean and dry.


Do not bleach or dye safety belts. If you do, it may severely weaken them. In a crash, they might not be able to provide adequate protection. Clean safety belts only with mild soap and lukewarm water.


Clean the outside of the windshield with GM Windshield Cleaner, Bon AmiR Powder (non-scratching glass cleaning powder), GM Part No. 1050011. The windshield is clean if beads do not form when you rinse it with water. Grime from the windshield will stick to the wiper blades and affect their performance. Clean the blade by wiping vigorously with a cloth soaked in full-strength windshield washer solvent. Then rinse the blade with water. Check the wiper blades and clean them as necessary; replace blades that look worn. Weatherstrips Silicone grease on weatherstrips will make them last longer, seal better, and not stick or squeak. Apply silicone grease with a clean cloth at least every six months. During very cold, damp weather more frequent application may be required. (See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.)

Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle The paint finish on your vehicle provides beauty, depth of color, gloss retention and durability. Washing Your Vehicle The best way to preserve your vehicle’s finish is to keep it clean by washing it often with lukewarm or cold water. Don’t wash your vehicle in the direct rays of the sun. Use a car washing soap. Don’t use strong soaps or chemical detergents. Be sure to rinse the vehicle well, removing all soap residue completely. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. (See “Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index.) Don’t use cleaning agents that are petroleum based, or that contain acid or abrasives. All cleaning agents should be flushed promptly and not allowed to dry on the surface, or they could stain. Dry the finish with a soft, clean chamois or an all-cotton towel to avoid surface scratches and water spotting. High pressure car washes may cause water to enter your vehicle.


Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses Use lukewarm or cold water, a soft cloth and a car washing soap to clean exterior lamps and lenses. Follow instructions under “Washing Your Vehicle.” Finish Care Occasional waxing or mild polishing of your vehicle by hand may be necessary to remove residue from the paint finish. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. (See “Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index.) Your vehicle has a “basecoat/clearcoat” paint finish. The clearcoat gives more depth and gloss to the colored basecoat. Always use waxes and polishes that are non-abrasive and made for a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish.


Machine compounding or aggressive polishing on a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish may dull the finish or leave swirl marks.

Foreign materials such as calcium chloride and other salts, ice melting agents, road oil and tar, tree sap, bird