1999 Pontiac Bonneville Owners Manual

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A. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank

B. Battery C. Radiator Pressure Cap

D. Engine Oil Dipstick E. Engine Oil Fill Cap F. Automatic Transaxle

Fluid Dipstick

G. Brake Master Cylinder H. Air Cleaner I. Windshield Washer

Fluid Reservoir

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3800 Supercharged Engine (L67 - Code 1) (If Equipped) When you open the hood, you’ll see:

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A. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank

B. Battery C. Radiator Pressure Cap 6-12

D. Engine Oil Dipstick E. Engine Oil Fill Cap F. Automatic Transaxle

Fluid Dipstick

G. Brake Master Cylinder H. Air Cleaner I. Windshield Washer

Fluid Reservoir

Supercharged Engine (If Equipped) Your vehicle may have a 3800 Supercharged engine. The supercharger is a device designed to pump more air into the engine than it would normally use. This air, mixed with fuel, creates increased engine power. Since the supercharger is a pump and is driven from an engine accessory drive belt, increased pressure is available at all driving conditions. The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) works with a vacuum control to regulate the increased pressure required during specific driving conditions. When this increased pressure or boost is not desired, such as during idling and light throttle cruising, the excess air that the supercharger is pumping is routed through a bypass. All of these controls, working together, provide high performance character and fuel efficiency in the 3800 V6 Supercharged engine.

Engine Oil

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If the CHECK OIL LEVEL light on the instrument panel comes on, it means you need to check your engine oil level right away. For more information, see “Check Oil Level Light” in the Index.

You should check your engine oil level regularly; this is an added reminder. It’s a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.

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The engine oil dipstick is located behind the engine fans and in front of the engine oil fill cap. The top of the dipstick is a round, yellow loop.

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Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you don’t, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level. Checking Engine Oil Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.

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When to Add Engine Oil If the oil is at or below the ADD mark, then you’ll need to add at least one quart of oil. But you must use the right kind. This part explains what kind of oil to use. For crankcase capacity, see “Capacities and Specifications” in the Index.

NOTICE:

Don’t add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged.

The engine oil fill cap is behind the engine oil dipstick and engine fans. Be sure to fill it enough to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you’re through. What Kind of Engine Oil to Use Oils recommended for your vehicle can be identified by looking for the “Starburst” symbol. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API). Do not use any oil which does not carry this Starburst symbol.

If you change your own oil, be sure you use oil that has the Starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. If you have your oil changed for you, be sure the oil put into your engine is American Petroleum Institute certified for gasoline engines.

You should also use the proper viscosity oil for your vehicle, as shown in the following chart:

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As shown in the chart, SAE 10W-30 is best for your vehicle. However, you can use SAE 5W-30 if it’s going to be colder than 60_F (16_C) before your next oil change. When it’s very cold, you should use SAE 5W-30. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils, such as SAE 20W-50.

NOTICE:

Use only engine oil with the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines “Starburst” symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty.

Engine Oil Additives Don’t add anything to your oil. Your dealer is ready to advise if you think something should be added. When to Change Engine Oil If any one of these is true for you, use the short trip/city maintenance schedule: D Most trips are less than 5 to 10 miles (8 to 16 km).

This is particularly important when outside temperatures are below freezing.

D Most trips include extensive idling (such as frequent

driving in stop-and-go traffic).

D Most trips are through dusty areas. D You frequently tow a trailer or use a carrier on top of

your vehicle.

GM GoodwrenchR oil meets all the requirements for your vehicle. If you are in an area where the temperature falls below -20_F (-29_C), consider using either an SAE 5W-30
synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both will provide easier cold starting and better protection for your engine at extremely low temperatures.

D The vehicle is used for delivery service, police, taxi

or other commercial application.

Driving under these conditions causes engine oil to break down sooner. If any one of these is true for your vehicle, then you need to change your oil and filter every 3,000 miles (5 000 km) or 3 months -- whichever occurs first.

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If none of them is true, use the long trip/highway maintenance schedule. Change the oil and filter every 7,500 miles (12 500 km) or 12 months -- whichever occurs first. Driving a vehicle with a fully warmed engine under highway conditions causes engine oil to break down slower. What to Do with Used Oil Did you know that used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer? Don’t let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly throw away clothing or rags containing used engine oil. (See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products.) Used oil can be a real threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all free-flowing oil from the filter before disposal. Don’t ever dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help.

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Engine Air Cleaner/Filter The air cleaner and filter are on the driver’s side of the engine compartment.

1. Remove the screws on the air cleaner housing cover.

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4. After detaching the hose from the throttle body and disconnecting the electrical connector, pull back the entire rear portion of the air cleaner by pulling upward and rearward.

2. Remove the air intake hose that is fitted over the throttle body located near the top of the engine by pulling the hose upward and away from the throttle body.

3. Disconnect the electrical

connector which is attached to the air temperature sensor located in the hose. This will allow you to lift the rear portion of the air cleaner.

5. Replace the air filter. 6. Reinstall the rear section of the air cleaner. 7. Reconnect the electrical connector. 8. Reattach the air intake hose. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to replace the air filter. the air filter and the crankcase ventilation filter. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.

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CAUTION:

Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air, it stops flame if the engine backfires. If it isn’t there, and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Don’t drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.

Supercharger Oil

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Unless you are technically qualified and have the proper tools, you should let your dealer or a qualified service center perform this maintenance.

NOTICE:

If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you’re driving.

When to Check Check oil level every 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or every 36 months, whichever occurs first. What Kind of Oil to Use See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index and use only the recommended oil.

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How to Check and Add Oil Check oil only when the engine is cold. Allow the engine to cool two to three hours after running.

CAUTION:

If you remove the supercharger oil fill plug while the engine is hot, pressure may cause hot oil to blow out of the oil fill hole. You may be burned. Do not remove the plug until the engine cools.

1. Clean the area around the oil fill plug before

removing it.

2. Remove the oil fill plug using a 3/16 inch

Allen wrench.

3. The oil level is correct when it just reaches the

bottom of the threads of the inspection hole.

4. Replace the oil plug with the O-ring in place. Torque

to 88 lb-in (10 N·m).

Automatic Transaxle Fluid When to Check and Change A good time to check your automatic transaxle fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change both the fluid and filter every 50,000 miles (83 000 km) if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions: D In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature

regularly reaches 90_F (32_C) or higher.

D In hilly or mountainous terrain. D When doing frequent trailer towing. D Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service. If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, change the fluid and filter at 100,000 miles (166 000 km). See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.

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How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the your Pontiac dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.

NOTICE:

Too much or too little fluid can damage your transaxle. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transaxle fluid.

Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transaxle fluid level if you have been driving: D When outside temperatures are above 90_F (32_C). D At high speed for quite a while. D In heavy traffic -- especially in hot weather. D While pulling a trailer.

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To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180_F to 200_F (82_C to 93_C). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50_F (10_C). If it’s colder than 50_F (10_C), you may have to drive longer.

Checking the Fluid Level D Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the

engine running.

D With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever

in PARK (P).

D With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P).

D Let the engine run at idle for three to five minutes.

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Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:

1. The transaxle fluid

dipstick top is a round, red loop and is next to the brake master cylinder behind the engine block. Pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.

2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and

then pull it back out again.

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3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the

lower level. The fluid level must be in the cross-hatched area.

4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the

dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place. way; then press the tab down to lock the dipstick in place. way.

How to Add Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transaxle fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.

If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level into the cross-hatched area on the dipstick. 1. Pull out the dipstick. 2. Using a long-neck funnel, add enough fluid at the

dipstick hole to bring it to the proper level. It doesn’t take much fluid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Don’t overfill.

NOTICE:

We recommend you use only fluid labeled DEXRONR-III, because fluid with that label is made especially for your automatic transaxle. Damage caused by fluid other than DEXRONR-III is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

3. After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as

described under “How to Check.”

4. When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place. way; then press the tab down to lock the dipstick in place. way.

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Radiator Pressure Cap

NOTICE:

Your radiator cap is a 15 psi (105 kPa) pressure-type cap and must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss and possible engine damage from overheating. Be sure the arrows on the cap line up with the overflow tube on the radiator filler neck.

Thermostat Engine coolant temperature is controlled by a thermostat in the engine coolant system. The thermostat stops the flow of coolant through the radiator until the coolant reaches a preset temperature.

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NOTICE:

When adding coolant, it is important that you use only DEX-COOLR (silicate-free) coolant. If coolant other than DEX-COOL is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine coolant will require change sooner -- at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Damage caused by the use of coolant other than DEX-COOLR is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with DEX-COOLR engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for 5 years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if you add only DEX-COOLR extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see “Engine Overheating” in the Index. A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOLR coolant will: D Give freezing protection down to -34_F (-37_C). D Give boiling protection up to 265_F (129_C). D Protect against rust and corrosion. D Help keep the proper engine temperature. D Let the warning lights gages lights and gages work

as they should.

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What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOLR coolant which won’t damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you don’t need to add anything else.

CAUTION:

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid like alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOLR coolant.

NOTICE:

If you use an improper coolant mixture, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts.

If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system.

NOTICE:

If you use the proper coolant, you don’t have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful.

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Checking Coolant

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If this LOW COOLANT warning light comes on and stays on, it means you’re low on engine coolant.

Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOLR coolant mixture at the coolant recovery tank, but be careful not to spill it.

CAUTION:

Turning the radiator pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. With the coolant recovery tank, you will almost never have to add coolant at the radiator. Never turn the radiator pressure cap -- even a little -- when the engine and radiator are hot.

The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the FULL COLD mark or a little higher. When your engine is warm, the level should be up to the FULL HOT mark or a little higher.

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CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.

Power Steering Fluid

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When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. How to Check Power Steering Fluid When the engine compartment is cool, wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean, then unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. Then remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on the dipstick. The level should be at the FULL COLD mark. If necessary, add only enough fluid to bring the level up to the mark. What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.

The power steering fluid reservoir is located on the rear passenger side of the engine compartment.

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Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing. Adding Washer Fluid

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NOTICE:

D When using concentrated washer fluid,

follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.

D Don’t mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water doesn’t clean as well as washer fluid.

D Fill your washer fluid tank only

three-quarters full when it’s very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.

D Don’t use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.

Open the cap labeled WASHER FLUID ONLY. Add washer fluid until the tank is full.

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Brakes Brake Fluid

Your brake master cylinder reservoir is on the driver’s side of the engine compartment. It is filled with DOT-3
brake fluid.

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There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes won’t work well, or won’t work at all. So, it isn’t a good idea to “top off” your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid won’t correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you’ll have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add (or remove) brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

CAUTION:

If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

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When your brake fluid falls to a low level, your brake warning light will come on. A chime will sound if you try to drive with this warning light on. See “Brake System Warning Light” in the Index.

What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. Refer to “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Maintenance Schedule. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.

CAUTION:

With the wrong kind of fluid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.

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NOTICE:

D Using the wrong fluid can badly damage

brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they’ll have to be replaced. Don’t let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid.

D If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See “Appearance Care” in the Index.

Brake Wear Your vehicle has front disc brakes and rear drum brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving (except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly).

CAUTION:

The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes won’t work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.

NOTICE:

Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair.

Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. See “Caliper/Knuckle Maintenance Inspection” in Section 7 of this manual under Part C “Periodic Maintenance Inspections.”

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Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly torque wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM specifications. Your rear drum brakes don’t have wear indicators, but if you ever hear a rear brake rubbing noise, have the rear brake linings inspected immediately. Also, the rear brake drums should be removed and inspected each time the tires are removed for rotation or changing. When you have the front brake pads replaced, have the rear brakes inspected, too. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. See “Brake System Inspection” in Section 7 of this manual under Part C “Periodic Maintenance Inspections.” Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble.

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Vehicle Storage If you’re not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (-) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.

CAUTION:

Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you aren’t careful. See “Jump Starting” in the Index for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.

Contact your dealer to learn how to prepare your vehicle for longer storage periods. Also, for your audio system, see “Theft-Deterrent Feature” in the Index.

Brake Adjustment Every time you apply the brakes, with or without the vehicle moving, your brakes adjust for wear. Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system -- for example, when your brake linings wear down and you have to have new ones put in -- be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you don’t, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change -- for the worse. The braking performance you’ve come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts. Battery Your new vehicle comes with an ACDelco FreedomR battery. When it’s time for a new battery, we recommend an ACDelco Freedom battery. Get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label.

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Driver’s Side Replacement

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Bulb Replacement For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer’s service department. Halogen Bulbs

CAUTION:

Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.

If you go through a high pressure car wash, or it is very humid, your headlamps may “fog up.” This is normal. The lenses should clear by themselves in time. Headlamps For the proper bulb type, see “Replacement Bulbs” in the Index.

1. Reach behind the headlamp assembly and turn

the bulb assembly counterclockwise to remove the bulb assembly.

2. Remove the bulb from the assembly. 3. Replace the bulb and reverse the steps to install the

new bulb assembly.

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Passenger’s Side Replacement

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1. Remove the two bolts with a 10 mm socket.

2. Slide the headlamp assembly outward (to the left)

and lift it out.

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3. Tip the assembly and turn the bulb assembly

counterclockwise to remove it.

4. Replace the bulb and reverse the steps to install the

new bulb assembly.

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The vehicle should be properly prepared as follows: D The vehicle must have all four tires on a perfectly

level surface.

D If necessary, pads may be used on an uneven surface. D The vehicle should not have any snow, ice or mud

attached to it.

D The vehicle should be fully assembled and all other work stopped while headlamp aiming is being done.

D There should not be any cargo or loading of the

vehicle, except it should have a full tank of fuel and one person or 160 lbs. (75 kg) on the driver’s seat.

D Close all doors. D Tires should be properly inflated. D Rock the vehicle to stabilize the suspension.

Headlamp Aiming Your vehicle has a headlamp system equipped with horizontal and vertical aim indicators. The aim has been pre-set at the factory and should need no further adjustment. This is true even though your vertical and horizontal aim indicators may not fall exactly on the “0” (zero) marks on their scales. If your vehicle is damaged in an accident, the headlamp aim may be affected. Aim adjustment may be necessary if it is difficult to see lane markers (for horizontal aim), or if oncoming drivers flash their high beams at you (for vertical aim). If you believe your headlamps need to be re-aimed, we recommend that you take it to your dealer for service; however, it is possible for you to re-aim your headlamps as described in the following procedure.

NOTICE:

To make sure your headlamps are aimed properly, read all the instructions before beginning. Failure to follow these instructions could cause damage to headlamp parts.

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The headlamp aiming devices are under the hood near the headlamps.

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A. Turn the horizontal

aiming screw until the indicator is lined up with zero.

Start with the horizontal aim. The adjustment screws can be turned with Once the horizontal aim is adjusted, then adjust the vertical aim.

B. Turn the vertical aiming screw until the level bubble

is lined up with zero.

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Rear Quarter Tail/Stop/Turn Signal/Sidemarker Lamps For the proper bulb type, see “Replacement Bulbs” in the Index.

2. Pull the carpeting away from the rear corner of

the trunk.

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1. Remove the plastic nut holding the carpeting

in place.

3. Turn the bulb socket assembly counterclockwise to

remove it from the lamp assembly. Turn the bulb one-quarter turn counterclockwise to remove it from the socket.

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4. Replace the bulb and reverse the steps to install the

new bulb assembly.

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Trunk-Mounted Taillamps and Back-up Lamps For the proper bulb type, see “Replacement Bulbs” in the Index.

1. Push in on the center of the plastic push pin with a

pen. The push pin should eject.

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2. Pull the push pin with your fingers to remove it.

(There are four pins altogether -- two on the driver’s side and two on the passenger’s side.)

3. Remove the five nuts that hold the assembly in place

with a 10 mm socket. Pull the carpet up and out of the way to remove the center nut. (There are two nuts on the driver’s side, two on the passenger’s side and one in the middle.)

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4. Lift up on both plastic side flaps at the same time

(driver’s side shown) and lift the assembly out.

5. Carefully let go of the decklid and let it raise

completely. The assembly will still be connected to the wiring harness, but now you will have access to the bulbs.

6. Turn the bulb assembly counterclockwise to

remove it.

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7. Pull out the taillamp bulb to remove it.

8. If you are replacing the back-up bulb, it must be

turned and pulled out to be removed.

9. Reverse the steps to install the new bulb assembly.

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Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected at least twice a year for wear or cracking. See “Wiper Blade Check” in Section 7 of this manual under Part B “Owner Checks and Services” for more information.

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Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. Here’s how to remove the type with a release hole: 1. Pull the windshield wiper arm away from

the windshield.

2. Insert a small screwdriver into the hole (A) and pull

the blade assembly off the wiper arm (B).

3. Push the new wiper blade securely on the wiper arm. For the proper windshield wiper blade replacement length and type, see “Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts” in the Index.

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Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your Pontiac Warranty booklet for details.

CAUTION:

Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous. D Overloading your tires can cause

overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index.

CAUTION: (Continued)

CAUTION: (Continued)

D Underinflated tires pose the same danger as

overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold.

D Overinflated tires are more likely to be cut,

punctured or broken by a sudden impact -- such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure.

D Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If your

tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them.

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Inflation -- Tire Pressure The Tire-Loading Information label, which is on the rear edge of the driver’s door, shows the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they’re cold. “Cold” means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km).

NOTICE:

Don’t let anyone tell you that underinflation or overinflation is all right. It’s not. If your tires don’t have enough air (underinflation), you can get the following: D Too much flexing D Too much heat D Tire overloading D Bad wear D Bad handling D Bad fuel economy.

NOTICE: (Continued)

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NOTICE: (Continued)

If your tires have too much air (overinflation), you can get the following: D Unusual wear D Bad handling D Rough ride D Needless damage from road hazards.

When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Don’t forget your compact spare tire. It should be at 60 psi (420 kPa).

How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You can’t tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they’re underinflated. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.

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Don’t include the compact spare tire in your tire rotation. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the Tire-Loading Information label. Make certain that all wheelnuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” in the Index.

CAUTION:

Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off. (See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index.)

Tire Inspection and Rotation Tires should be rotated every 6,000 to 8,000 miles (10 000 to 13 000 km). Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See “When It’s Time for New Tires” and “Wheel Replacement” later in this section for more information. The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The first rotation is the most important. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index for scheduled rotation intervals.

When rotating your tires, always use the correct rotation pattern shown here. 6-46

When It’s Time for New Tires

One way to tell when it’s time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining.

You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true: D You can see the indicators at three or more places

around the tire.

D You can see cord or fabric showing through the

tire’s rubber.

D The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged deep

enough to show cord or fabric.

D The tire has a bump, bulge or split. D The tire has a puncture, cut or other damage that

can’t be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage.

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Buying New Tires To find out what kind and size of tires you need, look at the Tire-Loading Information label. The tires installed on your vehicle when it was new had a Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC Spec) number on each tire’s sidewall. When you get new tires, get ones with that same TPC Spec number. That way your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give proper endurance, handling, speed rating, traction, ride and other things during normal service on your vehicle. If your tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC number will be followed by an “MS” (for mud and snow). If you ever replace your tires with those not having a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating and construction type (bias, bias-belted or radial) as your original tires.

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Uniform Tire Quality Grading The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, which grades tires by treadwear, traction and temperature performance. (This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.) The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to Federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards.

CAUTION:

Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes or types (radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the same size and type tires on all wheels. It’s all right to drive with your compact spare, though. It was developed for use on your vehicle.

CAUTION:

If you use bias-ply tires on your vehicle, the wheel rim flanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle.

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Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1 1/2) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction -- AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics.

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Temperature -- A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.

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Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. Scheduled wheel alignment and wheel balancing are not needed. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling one way or the other, the alignment may need to be reset. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your wheels may need to be rebalanced. Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked, or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your dealer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need. Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces. If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for your vehicle.

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CAUTION:

Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for replacement.

NOTICE:

The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis.

See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index for more information.

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Used Replacement Wheels

CAUTION:

Tire Chains

NOTICE:

Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is dangerous. You can’t know how it’s been used or how far it’s been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause an accident. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new GM original equipment wheel.

Use tire chains only where legal and only when you must. Use only SAE Class “S” type chains that are the proper size for your tires. Install them on the front tires and tighten them as tightly as possible with the ends securely fastened. Drive slowly and follow the chain manufacturer’s instructions. If you can hear the chains contacting your vehicle, stop and retighten them. If the contact continues, slow down until it stops. Driving too fast or spinning the wheels with chains on will damage your vehicle.

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Don’t use any of these unless this manual says you can. In many uses, these will damage your vehicle: D Alcohol D Laundry Soap D Bleach D Reducing Agents Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle Use a vacuum cleaner often to get rid of dust and loose dirt. Wipe vinyl, leather, plastic and painted surfaces with a clean, damp cloth. Cleaning of Fabric/Carpet Your dealer has two cleaners, Multi-Purpose Interior Cleaner and Capture Non-Solvent Dry Spot and Soil Remover for cleaning fabric and carpet. They will clean normal spots and stains very well. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. (See “Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index.)

Appearance Care Remember, cleaning products can be hazardous. Some are toxic. Others can burst into flame if you strike a match or get them on a hot part of the vehicle. Some are dangerous if you breathe their fumes in a closed space. When you use anything from a container to clean your vehicle, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s warnings and instructions. And always open your doors or windows when you’re cleaning the inside. Never use these to clean your vehicle: D Gasoline D Benzene D Naphtha D Carbon Tetrachloride D Acetone D Paint Thinner D Turpentine D Lacquer Thinner D Nail Polish Remover They can all be hazardous -- some more than others -- and they can all damage your vehicle, too.

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Here are some cleaning tips: D Always read the instructions on the cleaner label. D Clean up stains as soon as you can -- before they set. D Carefully scrape off any excess stain. D Use a clean cloth or sponge, and change to a clean

area often. A soft brush may be used if stains are stubborn.

D If a ring forms on fabric after spot cleaning, clean the

entire area immediately or it will set.

Using Multi-Purpose Interior Cleaner on Fabric 1. Vacuum and brush the area to remove any loose dirt. 2. Always clean a whole trim panel or section. Mask

surrounding trim along stitch or welt lines.

3. Mix powdered cleaner following the directions on

the container label to form thick suds.

4. Use suds only and apply with a clean sponge. Don’t

saturate the material and don’t rub it roughly.

5. As soon as you’ve cleaned the section, use a sponge

to remove the suds.

6. Wipe cleaned area with a clean, damp towel or cloth. 7. Wipe with a clean cloth and let dry.

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Special Fabric Cleaning Problems Stains caused by such things as catsup, coffee (black), egg, fruit, fruit juice, milk, soft drinks, vomit, urine and blood can be removed as follows: 1. Carefully scrape off excess stain, then sponge the

soiled area with cool water.

2. If a stain remains, follow the multi-purpose interior

cleaner instructions described earlier.

3. If an odor lingers after cleaning vomit or urine, treat the area with a water/baking soda solution: 1 teaspoon (5 ml) of baking soda to 1 cup (250 ml) of lukewarm water.

4. Let dry. Stains caused by candy, ice cream, mayonnaise, chili sauce and unknown stains can be removed as follows: 1. Carefully scrape off excess stain. 2. First, clean with cool water and allow to

dry completely.

3. If a stain remains, follow instructions for

Multi-Purpose Interior Cleaner.

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Cleaning Vinyl Use warm water and a clean cloth. D Rub with a clean, damp cloth to remove dirt. You

may have to do it more than once.

D Things like tar, asphalt and shoe polish will stain if

you don’t get them off quickly. Use a clean cloth and a vinyl/leather cleaner. See your dealer for this product.

Cleaning Leather Use a soft cloth with lukewarm water and a mild soap or saddle soap and wipe dry with a soft cloth. Then, let the leather dry naturally. Do not use heat to dry. D For stubborn stains, use a leather cleaner. See your

dealer for this product.

D Never use oils, varnishes, solvent-based or abrasive cleaners, furniture polish or shoe polish on leather.

D Soiled or stained leather should be cleaned

immediately. If dirt is allowed to work into the finish, it can harm the leather.

Cleaning the Top of the Instrument Panel Use only mild soap and water to clean the top surfaces of the instrument panel. Sprays containing silicones or waxes may cause annoying reflections in the windshield and even make it difficult to see through the windshield under certain conditions. Cleaning Interior Plastic Components Use only a mild soap and water solution on a soft cloth or sponge. Commercial cleaners may affect the surface finish. Care of Safety Belts Keep belts clean and dry.

CAUTION:

Do not bleach or dye safety belts. If you do, it may severely weaken them. In a crash, they might not be able to provide adequate protection. Clean safety belts only with mild soap and lukewarm water.

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Cleaning Glass Surfaces Glass should be cleaned often. GM Glass Cleaner or a liquid household glass cleaner will remove normal tobacco smoke and dust films on interior glass. (See “Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index.) Don’t use abrasive cleaners on glass, because they may cause scratches. Avoid placing decals on the inside rear window, since they may have to be scraped off later. If abrasive cleaners are used on the inside of the rear window, an electric defogger element may be damaged. Any temporary license should not be attached across the defogger grid. Cleaning the Outside of the Windshield and Wiper Blades If the windshield is not clear after using the windshield washer, or if the wiper blade chatters when running, wax, sap or other material may be on the blade or windshield. Clean the outside of the windshield with GM Windshield Cleaner, Bon AmiR Powder (non-scratching glass cleaning powder), GM Part No. 1050011. The windshield is clean if beads do not form when you rinse it with water.

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Grime from the windshield will stick to the wiper blades and affect their performance. Clean the blade by wiping vigorously with a cloth soaked in full-strength windshield washer solvent. Then rinse the blade with water. Check the wiper blades and clean them as necessary; replace blades that look worn. Weatherstrips Silicone grease on weatherstrips will make them last longer, seal better, and not stick or squeak. Apply silicone grease with a clean cloth at least every six months. During very cold, damp weather more frequent application may be required. (See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.) Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle The paint finish on your vehicle provides beauty, depth of color, gloss retention and durability.

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Finish Care Occasional waxing or mild polishing of your vehicle by hand may be necessary to remove residue from the paint finish. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. (See “Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index.) Your vehicle has may have a “basecoat/clearcoat” paint finish. The clearcoat gives more depth and gloss to the colored basecoat. Always use waxes and polishes that are non-abrasive and made for a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish.

NOTICE:

Machine compounding or aggressive polishing on a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish may dull the finish or leave swirl marks.

Washing Your Vehicle The best way to preserve your vehicle’s finish is to keep it clean by washing it often with lukewarm or cold water. Don’t wash your vehicle in the direct rays of the sun. Use a car washing soap. Don’t use strong soaps or chemical detergents. Be sure to rinse the vehicle well, removing all soap residue completely. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. (See “Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index.) Don’t use cleaning agents that are petroleum based, or that contain acid or abrasives. All cleaning agents should be flushed promptly and not allowed to dry on the surface, or they could stain. Dry the finish with a soft, clean chamois or an all-cotton towel to avoid surface scratches and water spotting. High pressure car washes may cause water to enter your vehicle.

Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses Use lukewarm or cold water, a soft cloth and a car washing soap to clean exterior lamps and lenses. Follow instructions under “Washing Your Vehicle.”

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Foreign materials such as calcium chloride and other salts, ice melting agents, road oil and tar, tree sap, bird droppings, chemicals from industrial chimneys, etc., can damage your vehicle’s finish if they remain on painted surfaces. Wash the vehicle as soon as possible. If necessary, use non-abrasive cleaners that are marked safe for painted surfaces to remove foreign matter. Exterior painted surfaces are subject to aging, weather and chemical fallout that can take their toll over a period of years. You can help to keep the paint finish looking new by keeping your vehicle garaged or covered whenever possible. Cleaning Aluminum or Chrome-Plated Wheels (If Equipped) Keep your wheels clean using a soft clean cloth with mild soap and water. Rinse with clean water. After rinsing thoroughly, dry with a soft clean towel. A wax may then be applied. The surface of these wheels is similar to the painted surface of your vehicle. Don’t use strong soaps, chemicals, abrasive polishes, abrasive cleaners, cleaners with acid or abrasive cleaning brushes on them because you could damage the surface. Do not use chrome polish on any wheels other than chrome-plated wheels.

Use chrome polish only on chrome-plated wheels, but avoid any painted surface of the wheel, and buff off immediately after application. Don’t take your vehicle through an automatic car wash that has silicon carbide tire cleaning brushes. These brushes can also damage the surface of these wheels. To clean your tires, use a stiff brush with a tire cleaner.

NOTICE:

When applying a tire dressing always take care to wipe off any overspray or splash from all painted surfaces on the body or wheels of the vehicle. Petroleum-based products may damage the paint finish and tires.

Sheet Metal Damage If your vehicle is damaged and requires sheet metal repair or replacement, make sure the body repair shop applies anti-corrosion material to the parts repaired or replaced to restore corrosion protection.

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Chemical Paint Spotting Some weather and atmospheric conditions can create a chemical fallout. Airborne pollutants can fall upon and attack painted surfaces on your vehicle. This damage can take two forms: blotchy, ringlet-shaped discolorations, and small irregular dark spots etched into the paint surface. Although no defect in the paint job causes this, Pontiac will repair, at no charge to the owner, the surfaces of new vehicles damaged by this fallout condition within 12 months or 12,000 miles (20 000 km) of purchase, whichever occurs first.

Finish Damage Any stone chips, fractures or deep scratches in the finish should be repaired right away. Bare metal will corrode quickly and may develop into a major repair expense. Minor chips and scratches can be repaired with touch-up materials available from your dealer or other service outlets. Larger areas of finish damage can be corrected in your dealer’s body and paint shop. Underbody Maintenance Chemicals used for ice and snow removal and dust control can collect on the underbody. If these are not removed, accelerated corrosion (rust) can occur on the underbody parts such as fuel lines, frame, floor pan and exhaust system even though they have corrosion protection. At least every spring, flush these materials from the underbody with plain water. Clean any areas where mud and other debris can collect. Dirt packed in closed areas of the frame should be loosened before being flushed. Your dealer or an underbody car washing system can do this for you.

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GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials PART NUMBER

DESCRIPTION

SIZE

994954
1050172
1050173
1050174
1050214
1050427

Polishing Cloth – Wax Treated

23 in. x 25 in. Tar and Road Oil Remover 16 oz. (0.473 L) 16 oz. (0.473 L) Chrome Cleaner and Polish 16 oz. (0.473 L) White Sidewall Tire Cleaner 32 oz. (0.946 L) 23 oz. (0.680 L)

Vinyl Cleaner Glass Cleaner

1052918**

8 oz. (0.237 L)

Armor Allt Protectant

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USAGE

Exterior polishing cloth

Removes tar, road oil and asphalt

Use on chrome, stainless steel, nickel, copper and brass

Removes soil and black marks from whitewalls Cleans vinyl tops, upholstery and convertible tops

Removes dirt, grime, smoke and fingerprints

Protects leather, wood, acrylics, Plexiglast, plastic,

rubber and vinyl

1052925

16 oz. (0.473 L)

Multi-Purpose Interior

Cleaner

Cleans carpets, seats, interior trim, door panels

and floor mats

Capture Dry Spot Remover

2.5 sq. ft.

Wheel Cleaner

16 oz. (0.473 L) 8 oz. (0.237 L)

1052929
1052930
12345721
12345725
12377964* 12377966* 12377984* See your General Motors Parts Department for these products. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.

12 oz. (0.354 L) 16 oz. (0.473 L) 16 oz. (0.473 L) 16 oz. (0.473 L)

Synthetic Chamois Silicone Tire Shine

Finish Enhancer

Surface Cleaner

Cleaner Wax

Spray on and rinse with water

Attracts, absorbs and removes soils on fabric

Shines vehicle without scratching

Spray on tire shine

Removes dust, fingerprints and surface contaminants Removes light scratches and oxidation and protects finish

Removes contaminants, blemishes and swirl marks

* For exterior use only. **Not recommended for use on instrument panels.

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Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)

This is the legal identifier for your vehicle. It appears on a plate in the front corner of the instrument panel, on the driver’s side. You can see it if you look through the windshield from outside your vehicle. The VIN also appears on the Vehicle Certification and Service Parts labels and the certificates of title and registration.

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Engine Identification The 8th character in your VIN is the engine code. This code will help you identify your engine, specifications and replacement parts. Service Parts Identification Label You’ll find this label on your spare tire cover. It’s very helpful if you ever need to order parts. On this label is: D your VIN, D the model designation, D paint information and D a list of all production options and

special equipment.

Be sure that this label is not removed from the vehicle.

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Electrical System Add-On Electrical Equipment

NOTICE:

Don’t add anything electrical to your vehicle unless you check with your dealer first. Some electrical equipment can damage your vehicle and the damage wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Some add-on electrical equipment can keep other components from working as they should.

Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to add anything electrical to your vehicle, see “Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped Vehicle” in the Index.

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Headlamp Wiring The headlamp wiring is protected by an internal circuit breaker. An electrical overload will cause the lamps to go on and off, or in some cases to remain off. If this happens, have your headlamp system checked right away. Windshield Wipers The windshield wiper motor is protected by an internal circuit breaker and a fuse. If the motor overheats due to heavy snow, etc., the wiper will stop until the motor cools. If the overload is caused by some electrical problem, be sure to have it fixed. Power Windows and Other Power Options Circuit breakers in the fuse panel protect the power windows and other power accessories. When the current load is too heavy, the circuit breaker opens and closes, protecting the circuit until the problem is fixed or goes away.

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Fuses and Circuit Breakers The wiring circuits in your vehicle are protected from short circuits by a combination of fuses, circuit breakers and fusible thermal links. This greatly reduces the chance of damage caused by electrical problems. Look at the silver-colored band inside the fuse. If the band is broken or melted, replace the fuse. Be sure you replace a bad fuse with a new one of the identical size and rating. If you ever have a problem on the road and don’t have a spare fuse, you can borrow one that has the same amperage. Just pick some feature of your vehicle that you can get along without -- like the radio or cigarette lighter -- and use its fuse, if it is the correct amperage. Replace it as soon as you can. There are two fuse blocks in your vehicle: the driver’s side and passenger’s side fuse blocks.

MaxifuseR/Relay Center

To check the fuses in this underhood fuse center, turn the two knobs one-quarter turn counterclockwise and loosen the metal wing nut on the passenger’s side of the cover. Then remove the cover. The inside of the cover has a chart that explains the features and controls governed by each fuse and relay.

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Driver’s Side Fuse Block

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The driver’s side fuse block is to the left of the steering wheel, under the instrument panel. Snap off the cover to reveal the fuses. You’ll find a fuse puller clipped to the inside of the cover. Place the wide end of the fuse puller over the plastic end of the fuse. Squeeze the ends over the fuse and pull it out. Spare fuses are located in the slots labeled “Spare” on the following chart. When finished, replace the cover by snapping it back up into place.

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Fuse 1A 2A 3A 4A 5A

6A 7A 8A 9A 1B

2B

Usage Circuit Breaker-Power Sunroof Not Used Circuit Breaker-Power Seats Not Used Not Used PASS-KeyR Spare Not Used Not Used Automatic A/C Control, Base Cluster, Cruise Control Courtesy Lamps, Power Mirrors Not Used Not Used Not Used Turn Signal, Back-Up Lamps, Brake-Transaxle Shift Interlock Spare

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Fuse 3B 4B 5B

6B 7B 8B 9B 1C 2C 3C 4C 5C 6C 7C 8C 9C 1D

Usage Not Used Not Used Anti-Lock Brake System, Computer Command Ride Brake and Hazard Lamps Not Used Interior Lighting Cigarette Lighter Air Bag System Spare Not Used Not Used Cooling Fans, Transaxle Parking Lamps/Interior Lamps Not Used Not Used (Battery), Radio, Cluster Ignition (Run/Crank), Chime, Cluster

Fuse 2D 3D 4D 5D 6D 7D 8D 9D 1E 2E 3E 4E 5E 6E 7E

8E 9E

Usage Spare Heated Mirror Not Used Base A/C Fog Lamps Transaxle Radio Not Used Not Used Air Bag System, PASS-KeyR Not Used Not Used Rear Defog Not Used Miscellaneous Engine Controls (Non-OBD II) Wipers, Washer Not Used

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Passenger’s Side Fuse Block Additional fuses are located in the relay center, on the passenger’s side, below the instrument panel. You must remove the sound insulator on the right side of the passenger footwell to replace these fuses. Since replacing these fuses is difficult. We recommend that you see your dealer if you need one replaced.

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Fuse

Usage Door Locks Trunk Release, RAC Horns Not Used Miscellaneous Engines Controls (OBD II) Fuel Pump

Fuse 10
11
12

Usage Injectors Powertrain Control Module Not Used Not Used A/C Programmer Not Used

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Replacement Bulbs If your vehicle is equipped with the Driver Information Center, the messages will also appear on the Lamp Monitor to alert you that a bulb needs to be replaced.

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Outside Lamps

Front Parking/Turn Lamps Halogen Headlamps

Bulb

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

3157NA

Low Beam High Beam

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9006
9005

Rear Taillamps Back-up Lamps Stoplamps Turn

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

194
1156
2057
1156

For service information on other bulbs, contact your dealer’s service department.

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Capacities and Specifications The following approximate capacities are given in English and metric conversions. Please refer to “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index for more information.

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Automatic Transaxle (Overdrive)

Pan Removal and Replacement . . . . . . . . . . 6.0 quarts (5.6 L) Complete Overhaul

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11.0 quarts (10.4 L) Cooling System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13.0 quarts (12.3 L)

When draining or replacing torque converter, more fluid may be needed. Engine Crankcase . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.5 quarts (4.3 L) Oil change with filter change. Fuel Tank . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18.0 gallons (68.1 L) Tire Pressures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Tire-Loading Information label on the driver’s door. Wheel Nut Torque . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 lb-ft 140 N·m R-134a Air Conditioning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See refrigerant charge label under the hood.

All capacities are approximate. When adding, be sure to fill to the appropriate level, as recommended in this manual.

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Air Conditioning Refrigerants Not all air conditioning refrigerants are the same. If the air conditioning system in your vehicle needs refrigerant, be sure the proper refrigerant is used. If you’re not sure, ask your dealer. Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts Air Cleaner Filter Engine Oil Filter Fuel Filter Transaxle Filter Spark Plugs

AC Type A-1096C AC Type PF-47
AC Type GF-627
GM Part No. 8651909
AC Type 41-921* Gap: 0.060 inch (1.52 mm)

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . .

Windshield Wiper Blades

Type Length

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Pin 22 inches (56 cm)

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

*On 3800 Supercharged Engine (Code 1) only, this replaces original spark plug NGK Type PTR4B-15.

Engine Specifications 3800 Series II Engine (L36)

VIN Engine Code

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Type

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

V6

Displacement

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Horsepower

Firing Order

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Thermostat Temperature

. . . . . . . . . . .

3.8 Liters 205-hp 1-6-5-4-3-2
195_F (91_C)

3800 Series II Supercharged Engine (L67)

VIN Engine Code

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Type

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V6

Displacement

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Horsepower

Firing Order

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3.8 Liters 240-hp 1-6-5-4-3-2
195_F (91_C)

Thermostat Temperature

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Vehicle Dimensions 110.8 inches (281.4 cm) Wheelbase Tread Width . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60.4 inches (153.4 cm) 60.3 inches (153.2 cm) 201.9 inches (512.8 cm) 74.6 inches (189.5 cm) 55.7 inches (141.5 cm)

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Front Rear Length Width Height

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L36 Engine Accessory Belt The L36 engine uses an engine accessory belt. This diagram shows the features connected and the routing. See “Maintenance Schedule” in the Index for when to check the belt.

A. Power Steering B. Generator C. Air Conditioning

D. Crank E. Coolant Pump F.

Idler

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L67 Engine Accessory Belt The Supercharged 3800 (L67) engine uses two accessory drive belts. The inner belt drives the generator, power steering pump, coolant pump and air conditioning. The outer belt drives the supercharger. Each belt has its own tensioner and idler pulley. See “Maintenance Schedule” in the Index for when to check the accessory drive belts and the supercharger oil level. Have your dealer check the oil level in the supercharger.

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1. Front Belt 2. Back Belt A. Generator B. Power Steering Pump

C. Crank D. Supercharger E. Coolant Pump F. Air Conditioning

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Section 7 Maintenance Schedule

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This section covers the maintenance required for your vehicle. Your vehicle needs these services to retain its safety, dependability and emission control performance.

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7-3
7-4
7-7
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Introduction How This Section is Organized Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance Long Trip/Highway Scheduled Maintenance

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