1999 Oldsmobile Bravada Owners Manual

Customer Assistance Representative Oldsmobile Customer Assistance Network 16 E. Judson Street P.O. Box 436006
Pontiac, MI 48343-6006

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Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the upper limit for cold tires. You’ll find these numbers on the Certification/Tire label on the driver’s door edge, above the door latch or see “Tire Loading” in the Index. Then be sure you don’t go over the GVW limit for your vehicle, including the weight of the trailer tongue. Hitches It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch. Here are some rules to follow: D If you’ll be pulling a trailer that, when loaded, will

weigh more than 2,000 lbs. (900 kg), be sure to use a properly mounted, weight-distributing hitch and sway control of the proper size. This equipment is very important for proper vehicle loading and good handling when you’re driving.

D Will you have to make any holes in the body of your

vehicle when you install a trailer hitch? If you do, then be sure to seal the holes later when you remove the hitch. If you don’t seal them, deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from your exhaust can get into your vehicle (see “Carbon Monoxide” in the Index). Dirt and water can, too.

If you’re using a weight-carrying hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 10 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B). If you’re using a weight-distributing hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 12 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B). After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they aren’t, you may be able to get them right simply by moving some items around in the trailer.

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Safety Chains You should always attach chains between your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer to help prevent the tongue from contacting the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety chains and do not attach them to the bumper. Always leave just enough slack so you can turn with your rig. Never allow safety chains to drag on the ground. Trailer Brakes If your trailer weighs more than 1,000 lbs. (450 kg) loaded, then it needs its own brakes -- and they must be adequate. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install, adjust and maintain them properly.

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Your trailer’s brake system can tap into the vehicle’s hydraulic brake system only if: D The trailer parts can withstand 3,000 psi

(20 650 kPa) of pressure.

D The trailer’s brake system will use less than

0.02 cubic inch (0.3 cc) of fluid from your vehicle’s master cylinder. Otherwise, both braking systems won’t work well. You could even lose your brakes. If everything checks out this far, then make the brake fluid tap at the port on the master cylinder that sends fluid to the rear brakes. But don’t use copper tubing for this. If you do, it will bend and finally break off. Use steel brake tubing.

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Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as responsive as your vehicle is by itself. Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform (and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector, lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your electrical connection at the same time. During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working. Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns.

Driving with a Trailer

CAUTION:

If you have a rear-most window open and you pull a trailer with your vehicle, carbon monoxide (CO) could come into your vehicle. You can’t see or smell CO. It can cause unconsciousness or death. (See “Engine Exhaust” in the Index.) To maximize your safety when towing a trailer: D Have your exhaust system inspected for leaks, and make necessary repairs before starting on your trip.

D Keep the rear-most windows closed. D If exhaust does come into your vehicle

through a window in the rear or another opening, drive with your front, main heating or cooling system on and with the fan on any speed. This will bring fresh, outside air into your vehicle. Do not use MAX A/C because it only recirculates the air inside your vehicle. (See “Comfort Controls” in the Index.)

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Passing You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane. Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you. Making Turns

NOTICE:

Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering.

When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.

Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have extra wiring and a heavy-duty turn signal flasher (included in the optional trailering package). The arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other drivers you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop. When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working. Driving On Grades Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. You should use THIRD (3) when towing a trailer. Operating your vehicle in THIRD (3) when towing a trailer will minimize heat buildup and extend the life of your transmission.

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Parking on Hills

CAUTION:

You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged.

But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s how to do it: 1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into

PARK (P) yet. Then turn your wheels into the curb if facing downhill or into traffic if facing uphill.

2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels. 3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.

4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking

brake and shift into PARK (P).

5. Release the regular brakes.

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When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down

while you: D Start your engine; D Shift into a gear; and D Release the parking brake.

2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks. 4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks. Maintenance When Trailer Towing Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more on this. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transmission fluid (don’t overfill), engine oil, axle lubricant, belt, cooling system and brake system. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review these sections before you start your trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight.

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Trailer Wiring Harness The trailer wiring harness is an eight-wire harness assembly. The harness is stored under the vehicle, on the driver’s side corner frame crossmember. The harness has a 30-amp feed wire with an inline fuse located by the junction block. See “Fuses and Circuit Breakers” in the Index. The harness does not have a connector and should be wired by a qualified electrical technician. The technician can use the following color code chart when connecting the wiring harness to your trailer. D Dark Blue: Use for electric trailer brakes or

auxiliary wiring.

D Red: Use for battery charging; it connects to the

starter solenoid.

D Light Green: Back-up lamps. D Brown: Taillamps and parking lamps. D Yellow: Left stoplamp and turn signal. D Dark Green: Right stoplamp and turn signal. D White (Heavy Gauge): Ground wire. D White (Light Gauge): Auxiliary stoplamp. Securely attach the harness to the trailer, then tape or strap it to your vehicle’s frame rail. Be sure you leave it loose enough so the wiring doesn’t bend or break, but not so loose that it drags on the ground. Store the harness in its original place. Wrap the harness together and tie it neatly so it won’t be damaged.

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- NOTES

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Section 5 Problems on the Road

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Here you’ll find what to do about some problems that can occur on the road.

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Hazard Warning Flashers Other Warning Devices Jump Starting Towing Your Vehicle

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Engine Overheating If a Tire Goes Flat Changing a Flat Tire If You’re Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow

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Hazard Warning Flashers

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Press the button on top of the steering column all the way down to make your front and rear turn signal lamps flash on and off.

Your hazard warning flashers work no matter what position your key is in, and even if the key isn’t in. To turn off the flashers, press the button until the first click and release. When the hazard warning flashers are on, your turn signals won’t work. The flashers will stop if you step on the brake.

Your hazard warning flashers let you warn others. They also let police know you have a problem. Your front and rear turn signal lamps will flash on and off.

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Other Warning Devices If you carry reflective triangles, you can set one up at the side of the road about 300 feet (100 m) behind your vehicle. Jump Starting If your battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. But please use the following steps to do it safely.

CAUTION:

Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because: D They contain acid that can burn you. D They contain gas that can explode or ignite. D They contain enough electricity to burn you. If you don’t follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.

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NOTICE:

Ignoring these steps could result in costly damage to your vehicle that wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. The ACDelco FreedomR battery in your vehicle has a built-in hydrometer. Do not charge, test or jump start the battery if the hydrometer looks clear or light yellow. Replace the battery when there is a clear or light yellow hydrometer and a cranking complaint. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it won’t work, and it could damage your vehicle.

1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt

battery with a negative ground system.

NOTICE:

If the other system isn’t a 12-volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged.

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2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles aren’t touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you don’t want. You wouldn’t be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the procedure. Put an automatic transmission vehicle in PARK (P) and a manual transmission vehicle in NEUTRAL (N).

3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug

unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter, or accessory power outlets, if you have this option. Turn off all lamps that aren’t needed as well as radios. This will avoid sparks and help to save both batteries. In addition, it could save your radio!

NOTICE:

If you leave your radio on, it could be badly damaged. The repair wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.

CAUTION:

An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

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5. Check that the jumper cables don’t have loose or

missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) and negative (-) will go to an unpainted metal engine part or a body metal surface. Don’t connect positive (+) to negative (-) or you’ll get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And don’t connect the negative (-) to negative (-).

6. Connect the red

positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the vehicle with the dead battery.

4. Open both hoods and locate the batteries. Find the positive (+) and negative (-) terminals on each battery.

CAUTION:

Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You don’t need to add water to the ACDelco FreedomR battery installed in every new GM vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you don’t, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Don’t get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.

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7. Don’t let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery.

Don’t let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (-) cable doesn’t go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy unpainted metal part on the engine of the vehicle with the dead battery.

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9. Attach the cable at least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, but the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less.

8. Now connect the black

negative (-) cable to the good battery’s negative (-) terminal.

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10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run

the engine for a while.

11. Try to start the vehicle with the dead battery. If it

won’t start after a few tries, make sure all connections are good. If it still won’t start, it probably needs service.

CAUTION:

Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.

12. Remove the cables in reverse order to prevent

electrical shorting. Take care that they don’t touch each other or any other metal.

A. Heavy Metal Engine Part B. Good Battery C. Dead Battery

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Towing Your Vehicle

CAUTION:

To help avoid serious personal injury to you or others: D Never let passengers ride in a vehicle that is

being towed.

D Never tow faster than safe or posted speeds. D Never tow with damaged parts not

fully secured.

D Never get under your vehicle after it has

been lifted by the tow truck.

D Always secure the vehicle on each side with

separate safety chains when towing it.

D Use only the correct hooks.

NOTICE:

Use the proper towing equipment to avoid damage to the bumper, fascia or fog lamp areas of the vehicle.

With current trends in automotive styles and design, it is essential that the correct towing equipment is used to tow a vehicle. Your vehicle can be towed with wheel-lift or car carrier equipment. When using wheel-lift equipment, you must have a towing dolly under the rear wheels when towing from the front and under the front wheels when towing from the rear. Consult your dealer or a professional towing service if you need to have your vehicle towed. See “Roadside Assistance” in the Index.

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Engine Overheating You will find a coolant temperature gage on your vehicle’s instrument panel. See “Gages” in the Index. If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine

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CAUTION:

Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool.

NOTICE:

If your engine catches fire because you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty.

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If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning doesn’t come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there’s still no sign of steam, push down the accelerator until the engine speed is about twice as fast as normal idle speed for at least three minutes while you’re parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.

If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine If you get an engine overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: D Climb a long hill on a hot day. D Stop after high-speed driving. D Idle for long periods in traffic. D Tow a trailer. If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. If your air conditioner is on, turn it off. 2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan

speed and open the window as necessary.

3. If you’re in a traffic jam, shift to NEUTRAL (N);

otherwise, shift to the highest gear while driving --DRIVE (D) or THIRD (3).

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When you decide it’s safe to lift the hood, here’s what you’ll see:

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The coolant level should be at least up to the ADD mark. If it isn’t, you may have a leak in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system.

A. Coolant Recovery Tank B. Radiator Pressure Cap C. Engine Fan If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, don’t do anything else until it cools down.

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CAUTION:

NOTICE:

Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Don’t touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Don’t run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.

NOTICE:

Engine damage from running your engine without coolant isn’t covered by your warranty.

When adding coolant, it is important that you use only DEX-COOLR (silicate-free) coolant. If coolant other than DEX-COOL is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine coolant will require change sooner -- at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Damage caused by the use of coolant other than DEX-COOLR is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

If there seems to be no leak, start the engine again. See if the engine cooling fan speed increases when idle speed is doubled by pushing the accelerator pedal down. If it doesn’t, your vehicle needs service. Turn off the engine.

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How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Recovery Tank If you haven’t found a problem yet, but the coolant level isn’t at the ADD mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOLR engine coolant at the coolant recovery tank. (See “Engine Coolant” in the Index for more information.)

NOTICE:

In cold weather, water can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture.

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CAUTION:

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid like alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOLR coolant.

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CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.

CAUTION: (Continued)

at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and radiator pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.

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When the coolant in the coolant recovery tank is at the ADD mark, start your vehicle. If the overheat warning continues, there’s one more thing you can try. You can add the proper coolant mixture directly to the radiator, but be sure the cooling system is cool before you do it.

CAUTION:

Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the radiator pressure cap -- even a little -- they can come out CAUTION: (Continued)

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How to Add Coolant to the Radiator

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2. Then keep turning the pressure cap, but now push

down as you turn it. Remove the pressure cap.

1. You can remove the radiator pressure cap when the

cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise until it first stops. (Don’t press down while turning the pressure cap.) If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.

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3. Fill the radiator with the proper DEX-COOLR

coolant mixture, up to the base of the filler neck. (See “Engine Coolant” in the Index for more information about the proper coolant mixture.)

4. Then fill the coolant recovery tank to the ADD mark. 5. Put the cap back on the coolant recovery tank, but

leave the radiator pressure cap off.

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6. Start the engine and let it run until you can feel the

upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fan.

7. By this time, the coolant level inside the radiator filler neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper DEX-COOLR coolant mixture through the filler neck until the level reaches the base of the filler neck.

8. Then replace the pressure cap. At any time during this procedure if coolant begins to flow out of the filler neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure the arrows on the pressure cap line up like this.

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If a Tire Goes Flat It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving, especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane. A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you’d use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop -- well off the road if possible. If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.

Changing a Flat Tire If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard warning flashers.

CAUTION:

Changing a tire can cause an injury. The vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over you or other people. You and they could be badly injured. Find a level place to change your tire. To help prevent the vehicle from moving:

1. Set the parking brake firmly. 2. Put the shift lever in PARK (P). 3. Turn off the engine.

To be even more certain the vehicle won’t move, you can put blocks at the front and rear of the tire farthest away from the one being changed. That would be the tire on the other side of the vehicle, at the opposite end.

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To remove the jack cover, pull up on the latch(es) on the cover. Remove the wheel blocks, jack and wheel wrench.

The following steps will tell you how to use the jack and change a tire. Removing the Spare Tire and Tools The jacking equipment you’ll need is stored along the driver’s side inner rear quarter panel. Your vehicle is also equipped with work gloves and a plastic ground mat to assist in the changing of a flat tire.

The spare tire is stored under the vehicle.

NOTICE:

Never remove or restow a tire from/to a stowage position under the vehicle while the vehicle is supported by a jack. Always tighten the tire fully against the underside of the vehicle when restowing.

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To remove the spare, insert the chisel end of the wheel wrench, on an angle, into the hole in the rear bumper. Be sure the chisel end of the wheel wrench connects into the hoist shaft.

NOTICE:

To help avoid vehicle damage, do not drive the vehicle before the cable is restored.

Put the spare tire near the flat tire.

Turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise to lower the spare tire. Keep turning the wheel wrench until the spare tire can be pulled out from under the vehicle. When the tire has been completely lowered, tilt the retainer at the end of the cable and pull it through the wheel opening. Pull the tire out from under the vehicle.

The tools you’ll be using include the jack (A), and the wheel wrench (B).

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Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire

Position the chisel end of your wheel wrench in the notch of the hub cap and pry off the hub cap.

1. Using the wheel wrench, loosen all the wheel nuts.

Don’t remove them yet.

2. Turn the jack handle clockwise to raise the jack

lift head.

3. Fit the jack into the appropriate hole nearest the

flat tire.

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CAUTION:

Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned can damage the vehicle and even make the vehicle fall. To help avoid personal injury and vehicle damage, be sure to fit the jack lift head into the proper location before raising the vehicle.

A. Front Frame Hole B. Spring Hanger Hole

CAUTION:

Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack, you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack.

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4. Raise the vehicle by turning the jack handle clockwise. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so there is enough room for the spare tire to fit.

5. Remove all the wheel nuts and take off the flat tire.

6. Remove any rust or dirt

from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces and spare wheel.

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CAUTION:

Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from the places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off.

CAUTION:

Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If you do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel could fall off, causing a serious accident.

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7. Place the spare on the wheel mounting surface.

8. Put the nuts on by hand.

Make sure the cone-shaped end is toward the wheel.

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Tighten each nut by hand until the wheel is held against the hub. If a nut can’t be turned by hand, use the wheel wrench and see your dealer as soon as possible.

9. Lower the vehicle by turning the jack handle counterclockwise. Lower the jack completely.

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10. Use the wrench to

tighten the wheel nuts firmly in a crisscross sequence as shown.

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CAUTION:

Incorrect wheel nuts or improperly tightened wheel nuts can cause the wheel to become loose and even come off. This could lead to an accident. Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts. If you have to replace them, be sure to get new GM original equipment wheel nuts. Stop somewhere as soon as you can and have the nuts tightened with a torque wrench to 100 lb-ft (140 N·m).

NOTICE:

Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque specification.

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Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools

CAUTION:

Storing a jack, a tire or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place.

NOTICE:

An aluminum wheel with a flat tire should always be stored under the vehicle with the hoist. However, storing it that way for an extended period could damage the wheel. To avoid this, have the wheel repaired as soon as possible.

Follow this diagram to store the spare or flat tire.

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A. Retainer B. Valve Stem (Pointed

Down)

C. Spare Tire D. Spring E. Wheel Wrench F. Lower G. Raise H. Hoist Arm

1. Put the tire on the ground at the rear of the vehicle,

with the valve stem pointed down and to the rear.

2. Pull the retainer through the wheel. 3. Put the chisel end of the wheel wrench, on an angle, through the hole in the rear bumper and into the hoist shaft. Turn the wheel wrench clockwise until the tire is raised against the underside of the vehicle. You will hear two “clicks” when the tire is secure, but pull on the tire to make sure.

Return the jack, wheel wrench and wheel blocks to the proper location in your vehicle’s rear area. Secure the items and replace the jack cover.

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CAUTION:

Make sure the tire and carrier are secure. Driving with the tire or carrier unlatched could injure pedestrians or damage the vehicle.

A. Retainer B. Rubber Band (Some Models) C. Work Gloves D. Mat E. Jack Storage Cover F. Wheel Blocks G. Hub Cap Removal Tool (Some Models) H. Wheel Wrench I. J. Jacking Instructions

Jack

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NOTICE:

Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting your transmission back and forth, you can destroy your transmission.

For information about using tire chains on your vehicle, see “Tire Chains” in the Index.

If You’re Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you will need to spin the wheels, but you don’t want to spin your wheels too fast. The method known as “rocking” can help you get out when you’re stuck, but you must use caution.

CAUTION:

If you let your tires spin at high speed, they can explode, and you or others could be injured. And, the transmission or other parts of the vehicle can overheat. That could cause an engine compartment fire or other damage. When you’re stuck, spin the wheels as little as possible. Don’t spin the wheels above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.

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Using the Recovery Hooks

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Rocking Your Vehicle To Get It Out First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will clear the area around your front wheels. Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear. By slowly spinning your wheels in the forward and reverse directions, you will cause a rocking motion that may free your vehicle. If that doesn’t get you out after a few tries, you may need to be towed out. Or, you can use your recovery hooks if your vehicle has them. If you do need to be towed out, see “Towing Your Vehicle” in the Index.

Your vehicle is equipped with recovery hooks. The recovery hooks are provided at the front of your vehicle. You may need to use them if you’re stuck off-road and need to be pulled to some place where you can continue driving.

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CAUTION:

The recovery hooks, when used, are under a lot of force. Always pull the vehicle straight out. Never pull on the hooks at a sideways angle. The hooks could break off and you or others could be injured from the chain or cable snapping back.

NOTICE:

Never use the recovery hooks to tow the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged and it would not be covered by warranty.

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Section 6 Service and Appearance Care

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Here you will find information about the care of your vehicle. This section begins with service and fuel information, and then it shows how to check important fluid and lubricant levels. There is also technical information about your vehicle, and a part devoted to its appearance care.

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Service Fuel Fuels in Foreign Countries Filling Your Tank Filling a Portable Fuel Container Checking Things Under the Hood Engine Oil Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Automatic Transmission Fluid All-Wheel Drive Rear Axle Radiator Pressure Cap Thermostat Engine Coolant Power Steering Fluid Windshield Washer Fluid

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Brakes Battery Bulb Replacement Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Tires Appearance Care Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle Care of Safety Belts Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) Service Parts Identification Label Electrical System Replacement Bulbs Capacities and Specifications Air Conditioning Refrigerants

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Service Your dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you’ll go to your dealer for all your service needs. You’ll get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. We hope you’ll want to keep your GM vehicle all GM. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:

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Doing Your Own Service Work If you want to do some of your own service work, you’ll want to use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see “Service and Owner Publications” in the Index. Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see “Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped Vehicle” in the Index. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See “Maintenance Record” in the Index.

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CAUTION:

You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it. D Be sure you have sufficient knowledge,

experience, the proper replacement parts and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task.

D Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts and other fasteners. “English” and “metric” fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.

Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airflow around it. This may cause wind noise and affect windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle.

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Fuel Use regular unleaded gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher. It is recommended that the gasoline meet specifications which have been developed by the American Automobile Manufacturers Association (AAMA) and endorsed by the Canadian Motor Vehicle Manufacturers Association for better vehicle performance and engine protection. Gasolines meeting the AAMA specification could provide improved driveability and emission control system performance compared to other gasolines. For more information, write to: American Automobile Manufacturer’s Association, 7430 Second Ave, Suite 300, Detroit MI 48202. Be sure the posted octane is at least 87. If the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If it’s bad enough, it can damage your engine. If you’re using fuel rated at 87 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service. But don’t worry if you hear a little pinging noise when you’re accelerating or driving up a hill. That’s normal, and you don’t have to buy a higher octane fuel to get rid of pinging. It’s the heavy, constant knock that means you have a problem.

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To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that will help prevent deposits from forming in your engine and fuel system, allowing your emission control system to function properly. Therefore, you should not have to add anything to the fuel. In addition, gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in your area to contribute to clean air. General Motors recommends that you use these gasolines, particularly if they comply with the specifications described earlier.

NOTICE:

Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Don’t use it. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage wouldn’t be covered under your warranty.

If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emission Standards (indicated on the underhood emission control label), it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. If such fuels are not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp on your instrument panel may turn on and/or your vehicle may fail a smog-check test. (See “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index.) If this occurs, return to your authorized Oldsmobile dealer for diagnosis to determine the cause of failure. In the event it is determined that the cause of the condition is the type of fuels used, repairs may not be covered by your warranty. Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask your service station operator whether or not the fuel contains MMT. General Motors does not recommend the use of such gasolines. If fuels containing MMT are used, spark plug life may be reduced and your emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp on your instrument panel may turn on. If this occurs, return to your authorized Oldsmobile dealer for service.

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Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. To check on fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you’ll be driving. You can also write us at the following address for advice. Just tell us where you’re going and give your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN).

General Motors Overseas Distribution Corporation 1908 Colonel Sam Drive Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7

Filling Your Tank

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The fuel cap is behind a hinged door on the driver’s side of your vehicle.

CAUTION:

Gasoline vapor is highly flammable. It burns violently, and that can cause very bad injuries. Don’t smoke if you’re near gasoline or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, flames and smoking materials away from gasoline.

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While refueling, hang the cap by the tether from the hook on the filler door.

CAUTION:

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If you get gasoline on yourself and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. Gasoline can spray out on you if you open the fuel filler cap too quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel filler cap slowly and wait for any “hiss” noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.

Be careful not to spill gasoline. Clean gasoline from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See “Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle” in the Index.

To remove the cap, turn it slowly to the left (counterclockwise). The cap has a spring in it; if you let go of the cap too soon, it will spring back to the right.

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When you put the cap back on, turn it to the right (clockwise) until you hear a clicking sound. Make sure you fully install the cap. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index.

NOTICE:

If you need a new cap, be sure to get the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and your fuel tank and emissions system may be damaged. See “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index.

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Filling a Portable Fuel Container

CAUTION:

Never fill a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others: D Dispense gasoline only into

approved containers.

D Do not fill a container while it is inside a

vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed or on any surface other than the ground. D Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the

inside of the fill opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the filling is complete.

D Don’t smoke while pumping gasoline.

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Checking Things Under the Hood

Then go to the front of the vehicle and release the secondary hood release.

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CAUTION:

Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like gasoline, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.

To open the hood, first pull the handle inside the vehicle on the lower driver’s side of the instrument panel.

Lift the hood, release the hood prop from its retainer and put the hood prop into the slot in the hood. You may have a lamp that comes on when you lift the hood.

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When you lift the hood, you’ll see these items:

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A. Battery B. Coolant Recovery Tank C. Engine Oil Dipstick D. Engine Oil Fill

E. Transmission Dipstick F. Power Steering Reservoir G. Brake Master Cylinder H. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter

I. Engine Compartment

Fuse Block

J. Windshield Washer Fluid

Reservoir

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Before closing the hood, be sure all the filler caps are on properly. Then lift the hood to relieve pressure on the hood prop. Remove the hood prop from the slot in the hood and return the prop to its retainer. Then just pull the hood down firmly to close. It will latch when dropped from 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm) without pressing on the hood.

Engine Oil It’s a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.

The oil dipstick is a yellow ring.

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Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you don’t, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level. Checking Engine Oil Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.

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When to Add Engine Oil If the oil is at or below the ADD line, then you’ll need to add at least one quart of oil. But you must use the right kind. This part explains what kind of oil to use. For crankcase capacity, see “Capacities and Specifications” in the Index.

NOTICE:

Don’t add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged.

Be sure to fill it enough to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you’re through.

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What Kind of Engine Oil to Use Oils recommended for your vehicle can be identified by looking for the “Starburst” symbol. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API). Do not use any oil which does not carry this Starburst symbol.

If you change your own oil, be sure you use oil that has the Starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. If you have your oil changed for you, be sure the oil put into your engine is American Petroleum Institute certified for gasoline engines.

You should also use the proper viscosity oil for your vehicle, as shown in the following chart:

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As shown in the chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. However, you can use SAE 10W-30 if it’s going to be 0_F (-18_C) or above. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils, such as SAE 20W-50.

NOTICE:

Use only engine oil with the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines “Starburst” symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty.

GM GoodwrenchR oil meets all the requirements for your vehicle. If you are in an area where the temperature falls below -20_F (-29_C), consider using either an SAE 5W-30
synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both will provide easier cold starting and better protection for your engine at extremely low temperatures. Engine Oil Additives Don’t add anything to your oil. Your dealer is ready to advise if you think something should be added.

When to Change Engine Oil If any one of these is true for you, use the short trip/city maintenance schedule: D Most trips are less than 5 to 10 miles (8 to 16 km).

This is particularly important when outside temperatures are below freezing.

D Most trips include extensive idling (such as frequent

driving in stop-and-go traffic).

D You operate your vehicle in dusty areas or

off-road frequently.

D You frequently tow a trailer or use a carrier on top of

your vehicle.

D The vehicle is used for delivery service, police, taxi

or other commercial application.

Driving under these conditions causes engine oil to break down sooner. If any one of these is true for your vehicle, then you need to change your oil and filter every 3,000 miles (5 000 km) or 3 months -- whichever occurs first. If none of them is true, use the long trip/highway maintenance schedule. Change the oil and filter every 7,500 miles (12 500 km) or 12 months -- whichever occurs first. Driving a vehicle with a fully warmed engine under highway conditions causes engine oil to break down slower.

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Remote Oil Filter

The access door for the remote oil filter is in the steering linkage shield assembly located under the radiator support. Twist the screw to unlock or lock the door. If you open the door, make sure it is securely closed when you are finished.

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What to Do with Used Oil Did you know that used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer? Don’t let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly throw away clothing or rags containing used engine oil. (See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products.) Used oil can be a real threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all free-flowing oil from the filter before disposal. Don’t ever dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help.

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Engine Air Cleaner/Filter

See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.

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CAUTION:

Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air, it stops flame if the engine backfires. If it isn’t there, and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Don’t drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.

NOTICE:

If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you’re driving.

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1. To remove the air cleaner, remove the wing nuts that

hold the cover on.

2. Remove the cover and lift out the air filter. 3. Insert a new air filter, then replace the air

cleaner cover.

4. Tighten the wing nuts to hold the cover in place. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to replace the air filter.

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Automatic Transmission Fluid When to Check and Change A good time to check your automatic transmission fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change both the fluid and filter every 15,000 miles (25 000 km) if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions: D In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature

regularly reaches 90_F (32_C) or higher.

D In hilly or mountainous terrain. D When doing frequent trailer towing. D Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service. If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, change the fluid and filter every 50,000 miles (83 000 km). See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.

How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.

NOTICE:

Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid.

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Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission fluid level if you have been driving: D When outside temperatures are above 90_F (32_C). D At high speed for quite a while. D In heavy traffic -- especially in hot weather. D While pulling a trailer. To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180_F to 200_F (82_C to 93_C). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50_F (10_C). If it’s colder than 50_F (10_C), drive the vehicle in THIRD (3) until the engine temperature gage moves and then remains steady for 10 minutes. Then follow the hot check procedures.

Checking Transmission Fluid Cold A cold check is made after the vehicle has been sitting for eight hours or more with the engine off and is used only as a reference. Let the engine run at idle for five minutes if outside temperatures are 50_F (10_C) or more. If it’s colder than 50_F (10_C), you may have to idle the engine longer. Should the fluid level be low during a cold check, you must perform a hot check before adding fluid. This will give you a more accurate reading of the fluid level.

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Checking the Fluid Level D Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the

engine running.

D With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever

in PARK (P).

D With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P).

D Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more.

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Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:

1. The dipstick is located

in the center of the engine compartment in the rear.

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Flip the handle up and then pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.

2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and

then pull it back out again.

3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower level. The fluid level must be in the COLD area for a cold check or in the HOT area or cross-hatched area for a hot check.

4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the

dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.

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D After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as

described under “How to Check.”

D When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.

All-Wheel Drive Transfer Case

When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See “Periodic Maintenance Inspections” in the Index.

How to Add Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transmission fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Add fluid only after checking the transmission fluid while it is hot. (A cold check is used only as a reference.) If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level up to the HOT area for a hot check. It doesn’t take much fluid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Don’t overfill.

NOTICE:

We recommend you use only fluid labeled DEXRONR-III, because fluid with that label is made especially for your automatic transmission. Damage caused by fluid other than DEXRONR-III is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

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How to Check Lubricant

Front Axle

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When to Check and Change Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.

How to Check Lubricant

If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.

What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.

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If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.

How to Check Lubricant

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What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Rear Axle When to Check and Change Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.

If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.

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Thermostat Engine coolant temperature is controlled by a thermostat in the engine coolant system. The thermostat stops the flow of coolant through the radiator until the coolant reaches a preset temperature. Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with DEX-COOLR engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for 5 years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if you add only DEX-COOLR extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see “Engine Overheating” in the Index.

Radiator Pressure Cap

NOTICE:

Your radiator cap is a 15 psi (105 kPa) pressure-type cap and must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss and possible engine damage from overheating. Be sure the arrows on the cap line up with the overflow tube on the radiator filler neck.

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A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOLR coolant will: D Give freezing protection down to -34_F (-37_C). D Give boiling protection up to 265_F (129_C). D Protect against rust and corrosion. D Help keep the proper engine temperature. D Let the warning lights and gages work as

they should.

NOTICE:

When adding coolant, it is important that you use only DEX-COOLR (silicate-free) coolant. If coolant other than DEX-COOL is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine coolant will require change sooner -- at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Damage caused by the use of coolant other than DEX-COOLR is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

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What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOLR coolant which won’t damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you don’t need to add anything else.

CAUTION:

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid like alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOLR coolant.

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Checking Coolant

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NOTICE:

If you use an improper coolant mixture, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts.

If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system.

NOTICE:

If you use the proper coolant, you don’t have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful.

The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at ADD, or a little higher. When your engine is warm, the level should be up to FULL HOT, or a little higher.

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Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOLR coolant mixture at the coolant recovery tank.

Power Steering Fluid

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CAUTION:

Turning the radiator pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. With the coolant recovery tank, you will almost never have to add coolant at the radiator. Never turn the radiator pressure cap -- even a little -- when the engine and radiator are hot.

Add coolant mixture at the recovery tank, but be careful not to spill it.

CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.

When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.

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Adding Washer Fluid

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Open the cap labeled WASHER FLUID ONLY with the washer symbol on it. Add washer fluid until the tank is full.

How to Check Power Steering Fluid When the engine compartment is cool, wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean, then unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. Then remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on the dipstick. The level should be between the ADD and FULL marks. If necessary, add only enough fluid to bring the level up to the proper range. What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals. Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing.

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NOTICE:

D When using concentrated washer fluid,

follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.

D Don’t mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water doesn’t clean as well as washer fluid.

D Fill your washer fluid tank only

three-quarters full when it’s very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.

D Don’t use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.

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Brakes Brake Fluid

Your brake master cylinder reservoir is here. It is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid.

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There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes won’t work well, or won’t work at all. So, it isn’t a good idea to “top off” your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid won’t correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you’ll have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add (or remove) brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

CAUTION:

If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

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Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to check your brake fluid. See “Periodic Maintenance Inspections” in the Index.

Checking Brake Fluid

You can check the brake fluid without taking off the cap.

Just look at the brake fluid reservoir. The fluid level should be above MIN. If it isn’t, have your brake system checked to see if there is a leak. After work is done on the brake hydraulic system, make sure the level is above the MIN but not over the MAX mark.

What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid. Refer to “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.

CAUTION:

With the wrong kind of fluid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.

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NOTICE:

D Using the wrong fluid can badly damage

brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they’ll have to be replaced. Don’t let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid.

D If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See “Appearance Care” in the Index.

Brake Wear Your vehicle has four-wheel disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving (except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly).

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CAUTION:

The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes won’t work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.

NOTICE:

Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair.

Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes.

Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly torque wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM specifications. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. See “Brake System Inspection” in Section 7 of this manual under Part C “Periodic Maintenance Inspections.” Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you make a brake stop, your disc brakes adjust for wear.

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Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system -- for example, when your brake linings wear down and you have to have new ones put in -- be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you don’t, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change -- for the worse. The braking performance you’ve come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts. Battery Your new vehicle comes with an ACDelco FreedomR battery. When it’s time for a new battery, we recommend an ACDelco Freedom battery. Get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label.

Vehicle Storage If you’re not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (-) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.

CAUTION:

Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you aren’t careful. See “Jump Starting” in the Index for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.

Contact your dealer to learn how to prepare your vehicle for longer storage periods. Also, for your audio system, see “Theft-Deterrent Feature” in the Index.

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Headlamps 1. Open the hood.

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2. Remove the black retainer clips by lifting up. 3. Pull the headlamp assembly out. 4. Unplug the electrical connector.

Bulb Replacement Before you replace any bulbs, be sure that all the lamps are off and the engine isn’t running. See “Replacement Bulbs” in the Index. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your GM dealer’s service department. Halogen Bulbs

CAUTION:

Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.

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Front Turn Signal Lamps 1. Remove the headlamp assembly as shown earlier in

this section.

2. Twist the bulb socket counterclockwise to remove it from the headlamp assembly.

3. Pull the bulb straight out

to remove it from the socket.

5. Turn the bulb assembly counterclockwise to

remove it.

6. Put the new bulb assembly into the headlamp assembly and turn it clockwise until it is tight.

7. Plug in the electrical connector. 8. Put the headlamp assembly back into the vehicle.

Install the two retaining clips.

4. Push the new bulb into the socket until it snaps

into place.

5. Put the bulb socket into the lamp assembly and twist

it clockwise until it is tight.

6. Put the headlamp assembly back into the vehicle.

Install the two retaining clips.

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Taillamps 1. Open the liftgate.

4. Turn the socket counterclockwise to remove it. Push the tab in while you turn the socket counterclockwise.

2. Remove the two screws from the lamp assembly.

5. Holding the base of the bulb, pull the bulb straight

out of the socket.

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6. Push the new bulb straight into the socket until

it clicks.

7. Put the socket into the lamp assembly and turn the

socket clockwise until it locks into place.

8. Install the lamp assembly and screws. 9. Close the liftgate.

3. Pull the assembly away from the vehicle.

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Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected at least twice a year for wear or cracking. See “Wiper Blade