2004 Oldsmobile Alero Owners Manual

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(Continued) (cid:127) Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts and other fasteners. “English” and “metric” fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt. Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airﬂow around it. This may cause wind noise and affect windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle. Fuel Use of the recommended fuel is an important part of the proper maintenance of your vehicle. Gasoline Octane Use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane of 87 or higher. If the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. Otherwise, you might damage your engine. A little pinging noise when you accelerate or drive uphill is considered normal. This does not indicate a problem exists or that a higher-octane fuel is necessary. If you are using 87 octane or higher-octane fuel and hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service. Gasoline Speciﬁcations It is recommended that gasoline meet speciﬁcations which were developed by automobile manufacturers around the world and contained in the World-Wide Fuel Charter which is available from the Alliance of Automobile Manufacturers at www.autoalliance.org. Gasoline meeting these speciﬁcations could provide improved driveability and emission control system performance compared to other gasoline. 5-4 In Canada, look for the “Auto Makers’ Choice” label on the pump. diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs may not be covered by your warranty. Canada Only California Fuel If your vehicle is certiﬁed to meet California Emission Standards (see the underhood emission control label), it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California speciﬁcations. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal speciﬁcations, but emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on (see Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-32 ) and your vehicle may fail a smog-check test. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for Additives To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that will help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing your emission control system to work properly. You should not have to add anything to your fuel. However, some gasolines contain only the minimum amount of additive required to meet U.S. Environmental Protection Agency regulations. General Motors recommends that you buy gasolines that are advertised to help keep fuel injectors and intake valves clean. If your vehicle experiences problems due to dirty injectors or valves, try a different brand of gasoline. Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in your area to contribute to clean air. General Motors recommends that you use these gasolines, particularly if they comply with the speciﬁcations described earlier. Notice: Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage the plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under your warranty. 5-5 Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT. General Motors does not recommend the use of such gasolines. Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for service. Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard to ﬁnd. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel would not be covered by your warranty. To check the fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you will be driving. Filling Your Tank {CAUTION: Fuel vapor burns violently and a fuel ﬁre can cause bad injuries. To help avoid injuries to you and others, read and follow all the instructions on the pump island. Turn off your engine when you are refueling. Do not smoke if you are near fuel or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, ﬂames and smoking materials away from fuel. Do not leave the fuel pump unattended when refueling your vehicle — this is against the law in some places. Keep children away from the fuel pump; never let children pump fuel. 5-6 The tethered fuel cap is behind a hinged door on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. While refueling, hang the tethered fuel cap inside the fuel door. 5-7 To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly to the left (counterclockwise). The fuel cap has a spring in it; if you let go of the cap too soon, it will spring back to the right. {CAUTION: When you put the fuel cap back on, turn it to the right (clockwise) until you hear a clicking sound. Make sure you fully install the cap. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-32. If you spill fuel and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any “hiss” noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way. {CAUTION: If a ﬁre starts while you are refueling, do not remove the nozzle. Shut off the ﬂow of fuel by shutting off the pump or by notifying the station attendant. Leave the area immediately. Be careful not to spill fuel. Don’t top off or overﬁll your tank, and wait a few seconds after you’ve ﬁnished pumping before you remove the nozzle. Clean fuel from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle on page 5-85. If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get Notice: the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not ﬁt properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage your fuel tank and emissions system. See “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index. 5-8 Filling a Portable Fuel Container {CAUTION: Never ﬁll a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others: (cid:127) Dispense gasoline only into approved containers. (cid:127) Do not ﬁll a container while it is inside a vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed or on any surface other than the ground. (cid:127) Bring the ﬁll nozzle in contact with the inside of the ﬁll opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the ﬁlling is complete. (cid:127) Do not smoke while pumping gasoline. Checking Things Under the Hood {CAUTION: An electric fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan. {CAUTION: Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a ﬁre. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake ﬂuid, windshield washer and other ﬂuids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine. 5-9 Hood Release To open the hood, do the following: 1. Pull the handle located under the instrument panel on the driver’s side of the vehicle. 5-10 2. Then go to the front of the vehicle and pull up clockwise on the secondary hood release. 3. Lift the hood. 4. Release the hood prop rod from its retainer and put the hood prop into the slot in the hood marked PROP ROD. Before closing the hood, be sure all the ﬁller caps are on properly. Then lift the hood to relieve pressure on the hood prop. Remove the hood prop from the slot in the hood and return the prop to its retainer. Then let the hood down and close it ﬁrmly. 5-11 Engine Compartment Overview When you open the hood on the 2.2L L4 ECOTEC™ ™ engine, you’ll see the following: 5-12 A. Engine Coolant Surge Tank. See Cooling System on page 5-29. B. Ground. See Jump Starting on page 5-42. C. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil” in Engine Oil on page 5-15. D. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil” in Engine Oil on page 5-15. E. Brake Fluid Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid” in Brakes on page 5-38. F. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See Power Steering Fluid on page 5-35. G. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. See Fuses and Circuit Breakers on page 5-90. H. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air Cleaner/Filter on page 5-20. I. Battery. See Battery on page 5-41. J. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-36. 5-13 When you open the hood on the 3400 V6 engine, you’ll see the following: 5-14 A. Engine Coolant Surge Tank. See Cooling System on page 5-29. B. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See Power Steering Fluid on page 5-35. C. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil” in Engine Oil on page 5-15. D. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil” in Engine Oil on page 5-15. E. Brake Fluid Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid” in Brakes on page 5-38. F. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air Cleaner/Filter on page 5-20. G. Battery. See Battery on page 5-41. H. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-36. Engine Oil Checking Engine Oil It is a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground. The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine oil dipstick. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you don’t, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level. 2.2L L4 ECOTEC™ Engine 5-15 See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine oil ﬁll cap. 3400 V6 Engine When to Add Engine Oil If the oil is at or below the MIN mark for the 2.2L L4 ECOTEC™ engine or below the cross-hatched area at the tip of the dipstick for the 3400 V6 engine, then you will need to add at least one quart of oil. But you must use the right kind. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Speciﬁcations on page 5-95. Notice: Do not add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the upper mark that shows the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged. Be sure to add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you are through. What Kind of Engine Oil to Use Look for two things: • GM6094M Your vehicle’s engine requires oil meeting GM Standard GM6094M. You should look for and use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM6094M. 5-16 • SAE 5W-30 As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. However, if it is going to be 0°F (–18°C) or above and SAE 5W-30 is not available, you may use SAE 10W-30. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50. Oils meeting these requirements should also have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certiﬁed by the American Petroleum Institute (API). You should look for this information on the oil container, and use only those oils that are identiﬁed as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and have the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. 5-17 Notice: Use only engine oil identiﬁed as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and showing the American Petroleum Institute Certiﬁed For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty. GM Goodwrench® oil meets all the requirements for your vehicle. If you are in an area of extreme cold, where the temperature falls below −20°F (−29°C), it is recommended that you use either an SAE 5W-30 synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both will provide easier cold starting and better protection for your engine at extremely low temperatures. Engine Oil Additives Do not add anything to your oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol that meet GM Standard GM6094M are all you will need for good performance and engine protection. When to Change Engine Oil (GM Oil Life System) Your vehicle has a computer system that lets you know when to change the engine oil and ﬁlter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change will be indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, you must reset the system every time the oil is changed. When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it will indicate that an oil change is necessary. A CHANGE OIL light will come on. Change your oil as soon as possible within the next two times you stop for fuel. It is possible that, if you are driving under the best conditions, the oil life system may not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, your engine oil and ﬁlter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. Your dealer has GM-trained service people who will perform this work using genuine GM parts and reset the system. It is also important to check your oil regularly and keep it at the proper level. If the system is ever reset accidentally, you must change your oil at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since your last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed. 5-18 What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the ﬁlter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help. How to Reset the CHANGE OIL Light The GM Oil Life System calculates when to change your engine oil and ﬁlter based on vehicle use. Anytime your oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where you change your oil prior to a CHANGE OIL light being turned on, reset the system. After changing the engine oil, the system must be reset. To reset the CHANGE OIL light use the following procedure: Using the Accelerator Pedal 1. Turn the ignition to ON, with the engine off. 2. Fully press and release the accelerator pedal slowly three times within ﬁve seconds. The reset is complete when you hear the chimes and the CHANGE OIL light goes out. However, if the light stays on and no chime is heard, you will need to repeat the reset procedure. 3. Turn the key to OFF. If the CHANGE OIL light comes back on when you start your vehicle, the engine oil life system has not reset. Repeat the procedure. 5-19 Engine Air Cleaner/Filter 2.2L L4 ECOTEC™ Engine shown, 3400 V6 Engine similar See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. 5-20 When to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Inspect the air cleaner/ﬁlter at every oil change and replace at the ﬁrst oil change after 25,000 miles (40 000 km). How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter To inspect the air cleaner/ﬁlter, remove the ﬁlter from the vehicle and lightly shake ﬁlter to release loose dust and dirt. If the ﬁlter remains “caked” with dirt, a new ﬁlter is required. To inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter, do the following: 1. Remove the screws that hold the cover on. 2. Lift off the cover. 3. Check or replace the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter. 4. Put the cover back on tightly. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to replace the air ﬁlter. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4. {CAUTION: Operating the engine with the air cleaner/ﬁlter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air, it helps to stop ﬂame if the engine backﬁres. If it is not there and the engine backﬁres, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/ ﬁlter off. If the air cleaner/ﬁlter is off, a backﬁre can Notice: cause a damaging engine ﬁre. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/ﬁlter in place when you’re driving. Automatic Transaxle Fluid It is not necessary to check the transaxle ﬂuid level. A transaxle ﬂuid leak is the only reason for ﬂuid loss. If a leak occurs, take the vehicle to the dealership service department and have it repaired as soon as possible. You may also have your ﬂuid level checked by your dealer or service center when you have your oil changed. Change both the ﬂuid and ﬁlter every 50,000 miles (83 000 km) if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions: • In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or higher. • In hilly or mountainous terrain. • When doing frequent trailer towing. • Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service. If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, the ﬂuid and ﬁlter do not require changing. Notice: Use of automatic transaxle ﬂuid labeled other than DEXRON®-III may damage your vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEXRON®-III labeled automatic transaxle ﬂuid. 5-21 When to Check and What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often you should check the ﬂuid level in your master cylinder reservoir and for the proper ﬂuid. See Owner Checks and Services on page 6-8 and Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. Manual Transaxle Fluid It is not necessary to check the transaxle ﬂuid level. A transaxle ﬂuid leak is the only reason for ﬂuid loss. If a leak occurs, take the vehicle to the dealership service department and have it repaired as soon as possible. You may also have your ﬂuid level checked by your dealer or service center when you have your oil changed. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12 for the proper ﬂuid to use. Hydraulic Clutch The hydraulic clutch linkage in your vehicle is self-adjusting. The clutch master cylinder reservoir is ﬁlled with hydraulic clutch ﬂuid. It is not necessary to regularly check clutch ﬂuid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system. Adding ﬂuid won’t correct a leak. A ﬂuid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. 5-22 How to Check and Add Fluid You do not need to check the ﬂuid level unless you suspect a clutch problem. To check the ﬂuid level, take the cap off. If the ﬂuid level reaches the top of the reservoir, the ﬂuid level is correct. It isn’t a good idea to top off your clutch ﬂuid. Adding ﬂuid won’t correct a leak. A ﬂuid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is ﬁlled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for 5 years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs ﬁrst, if you add only DEX-COOL® extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating on page 5-26. A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant will: • Give freezing protection down to −34°F (−37°C). • Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C). • Protect against rust and corrosion. • Help keep the proper engine temperature. • Let the warning lights and gages work as they should. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs ﬁrst. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle. 5-23 If you use an improper coolant mixture, Notice: your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system. Notice: have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful. If you use the proper coolant, you don’t What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL® coolant which won’t damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you don’t need to add anything else. {CAUTION: Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch ﬁre and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant. 5-24 Checking Coolant {CAUTION: Turning the surge tank pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. Never turn the surge tank pressure cap — even a little — when the engine and radiator are hot. 2.2L L4 ECOTEC™ Engine shown, 3400 V6 Engine similar The coolant surge tank is located in the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. 5-25 The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the FULL COLD mark, or a little higher. {CAUTION: If the low coolant light comes on and stays on, it means you’re low on engine coolant. You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine. When replacing the pressure cap, make sure it is hand-tight. Engine Overheating You will ﬁnd a coolant temperature gage and a low coolant warning light on your vehicle’s instrument panel. See Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 3-31 and Low Coolant Warning Light on page 3-32. See Low Coolant Warning Light on page 3-32 for more information. Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture at the surge tank, but only when the engine is cool. If the surge tank is empty, a special ﬁll procedure is necessary. See Engine Overheating on page 5-26 and “How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Surge Tank” under Cooling System on page 5-29 for instructions. 5-26 If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine {CAUTION: Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch ﬁre. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool. If your engine catches ﬁre because you Notice: keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty. 5-27 If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine An overheat warning, along with a low coolant light, can indicate a serious problem. See Low Coolant Warning Light on page 3-32. If you get an engine overheat warning with no low coolant light, but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: • Climb a long hill on a hot day. • Stop after high-speed driving. • Idle for long periods in traffic. • Tow a trailer. If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in NEUTRAL (N) while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) and let the engine idle. 2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan speed and open the window as necessary. If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning doesn’t come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there’s still no sign of steam, you can idle the engine for three minutes while you’re parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away. 5-28 Cooling System When you decide it’s safe to lift the hood, here’s what you’ll see: {CAUTION: An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan. If the coolant inside the coolant surge tank is boiling, don’t do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface. 2.2L L4 Engine shown, 3400 V6 Engine similar A. Coolant Surge Tank with Pressure Cap B. Electric Engine Cooling Fan 5-29 The coolant level should be at or above the FULL COLD mark. If it isn’t, you may have a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system. {CAUTION: Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine ﬁre, and you could be burned. Get any leak ﬁxed before you drive the vehicle. If you operate the engine without coolant If there seems to be no leak, with the engine on, check to see if the electric engine cooling fans are running. If the engine is overheating, both fans should be running. If they aren’t, your vehicle needs service. Notice: or fail to maintain the cooling system properly, you could damage the engine. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always follow the maintenance schedule in this manual for maintaining your cooling system. See Cooling System on page 5-29 for more information. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs ﬁrst. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle. 5-30 How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Surge Tank Notice: This vehicle has a speciﬁc coolant ﬁll procedure. Failure to follow this procedure could cause your engine to overheat and be severely damaged. If you haven’t found a problem yet, check to see if coolant is visible in the surge tank. If coolant is visible but the coolant level isn’t at or above the FULL COLD mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant at the coolant surge tank, but be sure the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is cool before you do it. See Engine Coolant on page 5-23 for more information. If no coolant is visible in the surge tank, add coolant as follows: {CAUTION: Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the radiator pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and radiator pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap. 5-31 CAUTION: (Continued) vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch ﬁre and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant. In cold weather, water can freeze and crack Notice: the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture. {CAUTION: You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine. {CAUTION: Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your CAUTION: (Continued) 5-32 1. Park the vehicle on a level surface. You can remove the coolant surge tank pressure cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. 2. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise (left) about two or two and one-half turns. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. This will allow any pressure still left to be vented out the discharge hose. 3. Keep turning the pressure cap slowly, and remove it. 5-33 4. Fill the coolant surge tank with the proper mixture, to the hash mark on the label. Wait about ﬁve minutes, then check to see if the level is below the hash mark. If the level is below the hash mark, add additional coolant to bring the level up to the hash mark. Repeat this procedure until the level remains constant at the hash mark for at least ﬁve minutes. 5. With the coolant surge tank pressure cap off, start the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fans. By this time, the coolant level inside the coolant surge tank may be lower. If the level is lower than the FULL COLD mark, add more of the proper mixture to the coolant surge tank until the level reaches the FULL COLD mark. 5-34 6. Replace the pressure cap. Be sure the pressure cap is hand-tight and fully seated. See your dealer, if necessary. Power Steering Fluid When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering ﬂuid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A ﬂuid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for reservoir location. 5-35 How to Check Power Steering Fluid Turn the key off, let the engine compartment cool down, wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean, then unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. Then remove the cap again and look at the ﬂuid level on the dipstick. The level should be at the FULL COLD mark. If necessary, add only enough ﬂuid to bring the level up to the mark. What to Use To determine what kind of ﬂuid to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. Always use the proper ﬂuid. Failure to use the proper ﬂuid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals. Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer ﬂuid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a ﬂuid that has sufficient protection against freezing. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for reservoir location. Adding Washer Fluid Your vehicle has a low washer ﬂuid telltale that will come on in the instrument panel cluster when the washer ﬂuid is low. See Low Washer Fluid Warning Light on page 3-37 for more information. 5-36 The windshield washer ﬂuid reservoir is located in the engine compartment towards the front of the vehicle. Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer ﬂuid until the tank is full. Notice: (cid:127) When using concentrated washer ﬂuid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water. (cid:127) Don’t mix water with ready-to-use washer ﬂuid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer ﬂuid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water doesn’t clean as well as washer ﬂuid. Fill your washer ﬂuid tank only three-quarters full when it’s very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full. (cid:127) Don’t use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint. 5-37 (cid:127) should have your brake system ﬁxed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes will not work well, or will not work at all. So, it is not a good idea to “top off” your brake ﬂuid. Adding brake ﬂuid will not correct a leak. If you add ﬂuid when your linings are worn, then you will have too much ﬂuid when you get new brake linings. You should add (or remove) brake ﬂuid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. {CAUTION: If you have too much brake ﬂuid, it can spill on the engine. The ﬂuid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake ﬂuid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. Brakes Brake Fluid Your brake master cylinder reservoir is ﬁlled with DOT-3 brake ﬂuid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the reservoir. There are only two reasons why the brake ﬂuid level in the reservoir might go down. The ﬁrst is that the brake ﬂuid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the ﬂuid level goes back up. The other reason is that ﬂuid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you 5-38 United States Canada When your brake ﬂuid falls to a low level, your brake warning light will come on. See Brake System Warning Light on page 3-28. What to Add When you do need brake ﬂuid, use only DOT-3 brake ﬂuid. Use new brake ﬂuid from a sealed container only. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. Always clean the brake ﬂuid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir. {CAUTION: With the wrong kind of ﬂuid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake ﬂuid. Notice: (cid:127) Using the wrong ﬂuid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of ﬂuid. If you spill brake ﬂuid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint ﬁnish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake ﬂuid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Appearance Care on page 5-81. 5-39 (cid:127) Brake Wear Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving (except when you are pushing on the brake pedal ﬁrmly). {CAUTION: The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced. Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair. Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are ﬁrst applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM torque speciﬁcations. If you have rear drum brakes, they do not have wear indicators, but if you ever hear a rear brake rubbing noise, have the rear brake linings inspected immediately. Also, the rear brake drums should be removed and inspected each time the tires are removed for rotation or changing. When you have the front brake pads replaced, have the rear brakes inspected, too. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. 5-40 Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you make a moderate brake stop, your disc brakes adjust for wear. If you rarely make a moderate or heavier stop, then your brakes might not adjust correctly. If you drive in that way, then — very carefully — make a few moderate brake stops about every 1,000 miles (1 600 km), so your brakes will adjust properly. Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system — for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure you get new approved replacement parts. If you do not, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance you have come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts. Battery Your new vehicle comes with a maintenance free ACDelco® battery. When it is time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco® battery. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for battery location. Warning: Battery posts, terminals and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling. 5-41 Vehicle Storage If you are not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down. Jump Starting If your battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to follow the steps below to do it safely. {CAUTION: Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 5-42 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt. Contact your dealer to learn how to prepare your vehicle for longer storage periods. Also, for your audio system, see Theft-Deterrent Feature (RDS Radios) on page 3-67. 5-42 {CAUTION: Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because: (cid:127) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:127) They contain gas that can explode or (cid:127) They contain enough electricity to ignite. burn you. If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you. Ignoring these steps could result in costly Notice: damage to your vehicle that wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it won’t work, and it could damage your vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt battery with a negative ground system. If the other vehicle’s system is not a 12-volt Notice: system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles aren’t touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you don’t want. You wouldn’t be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake ﬁrmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transaxle in PARK (P) or a manual transaxle in Neutral before setting the parking brake. If you leave your radio or other accessories Notice: on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and other accessories when jump starting your vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter. Turn off the radio and all lamps that aren’t needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save your radio! 4. Open the hoods and locate the batteries. Find the positive (+) and negative (−) terminal locations on each vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. {CAUTION: An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan. 5-43 {CAUTION: {CAUTION: Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a ﬂashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the ACDelco® battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has ﬁller caps, be sure the right amount of ﬂuid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that ﬁrst. If you do not, explosive gas could be present. Battery ﬂuid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, ﬂush the place with water and get medical help immediately. Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running. 5. Check that the jumper cables don’t have loose or missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle with the dead battery has one. Don’t connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you’ll get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts, too. And don’t connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks. 5-44 6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. 7. Don’t let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. 8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. 5-45 Don’t let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable doesn’t go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery. 9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable at least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less. 10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run the engine for a while. 11. Try to start the vehicle that has the dead battery. If it won’t start after a few tries, it probably needs service. 5-46 If the jumper cables are removed in the Notice: wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal. To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the vehicle that had the dead battery. 2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the vehicle with the good battery. 3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the vehicle with the good battery. 4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other vehicle. Jumper Cable Removal A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part B. Good Battery C. Dead Battery 5-47 Headlamp Aiming Your vehicle has a headlamp system equipped with horizontal and vertical aim indicators. The aim has been pre-set at the factory and should need no further adjustment. This is true even though your vertical and horizontal aim indicators may not fall exactly on the “0” (zero) marks on their scales. If your vehicle is damaged in an accident, the headlamp aim may be affected. Aim adjustment may be necessary if it is difficult to see lane markers (for horizontal aim), or if oncoming drivers ﬂash their high beams at you (for vertical aim). If you believe your headlamps need to be re-aimed, we recommend that you take it to your dealer for service; however, it is possible for you to re-aim your headlamps as described in the following procedure. 5-48 Notice: To make sure your headlamps are aimed properly, read all the instructions before beginning. Failure to follow these instructions could cause damage to headlamp parts. To check the aim, the vehicle should be properly prepared as follows: • The vehicle must have all four tires on a perfectly level surface. • If necessary, pads may be used on an uneven surface. • The vehicle should not have any snow, ice or mud attached to it. • The vehicle should be fully assembled and all other work stopped while headlamp aiming is being done. • There should not be any cargo or loading of the vehicle, except it should have a full tank of fuel and one person or 160 lbs. (75 kg) on the driver’s seat. • Close all doors. • Tires should be properly inﬂated. • Rock the vehicle to stabilize the suspension. Start with the horizontal aim. The adjustment screws can be turned with an E8 Torx ® socket. Once the horizontal aim is adjusted, then adjust the vertical aim. Horizontal Aiming Vertical Aiming 1. Turn the horizontal aiming screw until the indicator is lined up with zero. 2. Turn the vertical aiming screw until the level bubble is lined up with zero. 5-49 Bulb Replacement For the type of bulb to use, see Replacement Bulbs on page 5-52. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer. Headlamps 1. Lift up on the two retaining clips which secure the headlamp assembly. Halogen Bulbs {CAUTION: Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package. 5-50 2. Lift and pull the headlamp assembly forward, out of the mounting bracket. 3. Remove the rubber cap covering the bulb assembly. 4. Turn the bulb assembly retainer counterclockwise one-sixth of a turn and pull out the bulb assembly. 5. Unclip the bulb assembly from the wiring harness. 6. Replace the bulb. 7. Reverse Steps 1 through 5 to reinstall the bulb assembly and headlamp housing. Front Turn Signal and Parking Lamps 1. Remove the headlamp assembly. Refer to the removal procedure earlier in this section. 2. Turn the bulb assembly retainer and pull out the bulb. 3. Unclip the bulb assembly from the wiring harness. 4. When replacing the bulb, be sure to properly align the bulb with the locating feature in the assembly. 5. Reverse Steps 1 through 3 to reinstall the bulb assembly. Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) 1. Open the trunk lid and locate the center high-mounted stop lamp on the inside of the lid. 2. Use a tool to remove the three screws. 3. Gently remove and replace the bulb(s). 4. Reverse this procedure to reassemble the lamp. 5-51 Taillamps, Turn Signal, and Stoplamps A. Taillamp B. Tail/Brake Lamp C. Taillamp D. Turn Signal E. Back-Up Lamp 5-52 1. Disconnect the cargo net in the trunk. 2. Pull back the trunk trim. 3. Remove the three wing nut bolts which fasten the taillamp lens to the vehicle. 4. Carefully remove the taillamp lens from the body and avoid scratching the paint or dropping it. 5. Turn the bulb socket 1/6 of a turn counterclockwise and pull out the bulb assembly. 6. To remove a bulb, gently pull the bulb out from the socket. Put in a new bulb. 7. Reverse Steps 3 through 5 to reassemble the taillamp. Replacement Bulbs Exterior Lamps Bulb Number Center High-Mounted Stop Lamp Turn Signal Lamps Stop/Taillamps Halogen Headlamps-Low Beam Halogen Headlamps-High Beam Parking/Turn Signal Lamps For any bulb not listed here contact your dealer. 912 3157 3157 9006 9005 3157NA or 3157A Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected at least twice a year for wear or cracking. See “Wiper Blade Check” in Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 for more information. Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. Here’s how to remove the wiper blade: 1. Pull the windshield wiper arm away from the windshield. 2. Push the release lever and slide the wiper assembly toward the driver’s side of the vehicle. 3. Install a new blade by reversing Steps 1 and 2. For the proper type and size, see Capacities and Speciﬁcations on page 5-95. 5-53 Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your GM Warranty booklet for details. For additional information refer to the tire manufacturer’s booklet included with your vehicle’s Owner’s Manual. {CAUTION: Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous. (cid:127) Overloading your tires can cause overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index. CAUTION: (Continued) 5-54 CAUTION: (Continued) (cid:127) Underinﬂated tires pose the same danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold. (cid:127) Overinﬂated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured or broken by a sudden impact — such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure. (cid:127) Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If your tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them. Tire Sidewall Labeling Useful information about a tire is molded into its sidewall. The examples below show a typical passenger car tire and a compact spare tire sidewall. (A) Tire Size: The tire size code is a combination of letters and numbers used to deﬁne a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail. (B) Tire Performance Criteria Speciﬁcation (TPC Spec): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s speciﬁc tire performance criteria have a TPC speciﬁcation code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC speciﬁcations meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines. (C) Department of Transportation (DOT): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards. (D) Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT code are the Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. Passenger Car Tire Example 5-55 (E) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (F) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction and temperature resistance. For more information see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-66. (G) Maximum Cold Inﬂation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. For more information on recommended tire pressure see Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-61 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-34. 5-56 Compact Spare Tire Example (A) Temporary Use Only: The compact spare tire or temporary use tire has a tread life of approximately 3,000 miles (5 000 km) and should not be driven at speeds over 65 mph (105 km/h). The compact spare tire is for emergency use when a regular road tire has lost air and gone ﬂat. See Compact Spare Tire on page 5-80 and If a Tire Goes Flat on page 5-70. (B) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (E) Tire Inﬂation: The temporary use tire or compact spare tire should be inﬂated to 60 psi (420 kPa). For more information on tire pressure and inﬂation see Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-61. (F) Tire Size: A combination of letters and numbers deﬁne a tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type and service description. The letter “T” as the ﬁrst character in the tire size means the tire is for temporary use only. (C) Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN): The Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (G) Tire Performance Criteria Speciﬁcation (TPC Spec): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s speciﬁc tire performance criteria have a TPC speciﬁcation code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC speciﬁcations meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines. (D) Maximum Cold Inﬂation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. See Compact Spare Tire on page 5-80 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-34. 5-57 (B) Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall. (C) Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is “70,” as shown in item “C” of the illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is 70% as high as it is wide. (D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter “R” means radial ply construction; the letter “D” means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter “B” means belted-bias ply construction. (E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches. (F) Service Description: These characters represent the load range and the speed rating of a tire. The load range represents the load carrying capacity a tire is certiﬁed to carry. The load index can range from 1 to 279. The speed rating is the maximum speed a tire is certiﬁed to carry a load. Speed ratings range from “A” to “Z”. Tire Size The following illustration shows an example of a typical passenger car tire size. (A) P-Metric Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter “P” as the ﬁrst character in the tire size means a passenger vehicle tire engineered to standards set by the U. S. Tire and Rim Association. 5-58 Tire Terminology and Deﬁnitions Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa). Accessory Weight: This means the combined weight of optional accessories. Some examples of optional accessories are, automatic transmission, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air conditioning. Curb Weight: This means the weight of a motor vehicle with standard and optional equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil and coolant, but without passengers and cargo. DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand and date of production. Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire’s height to its width. GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-34. Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials. Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim. Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the plies are laid at alternate angles substantially less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. Cold Inﬂation Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) before a tire has built up heat from driving. See Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-61. GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front axle, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-34. GAWR RR: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-34. Intended Outboard Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire that must always face outward when mounted on a vehicle. Kilopascal (kPa): The metric unit for air pressure. There are 6.9 kPa’s to one psi. Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: A tire used on light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles. 5-59 Load Index: An assigned number ranging from 1 to 279 that corresponds to the load carrying capacity of a tire. Maximum Inﬂation Pressure: The maximum air pressure to which a cold tire may be inﬂated. The maximum air pressure is molded onto the sidewall. Maximum Load Rating: The load rating for a tire at the maximum permissible inﬂation pressure for that tire. Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight: The sum of curb weight; accessory weight; vehicle capacity weight; and production options weight. Recommended Inﬂation Pressure: Vehicle manufacturer’s recommended tire inﬂation pressure and shown on the tire placard. See Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-61 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-34. Radial Ply tire: A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. Rim: A metal support for a tire and upon which the tire beads are seated. Sidewall: The portion of a tire between the tread and the bead. Normal Occupant Weight: The number of occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 150 pounds (68 kg). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-34. Speed Rating: An alphanumeric code assigned to a tire indicating the maximum speed at which a tire can operate. Occupant Distribution: Designated seating positions. Outward Facing Sidewall: The side of a asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that faces outward when mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears white lettering or bears manufacturer, brand and or model name molding that is higher or deeper than the same moldings on the other sidewall of the tire. Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: A tire used on passenger cars and some light duty trucks and multipurpose vehicles. 5-60 Traction: The friction between the tire and the road surface. The amount of grip provided. Tread: The portion of a tire that comes into contact with the road. Treadwear Indicators: Narrow bands, sometimes called “wear bars,” that show across the tread of a tire when only 2/32 inch of tread remains. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-64. UTQGS: Uniform Tire Quality Grading Standards, a tire information system that provides consumers with ratings for a tire’s traction, temperature and treadwear. Ratings are determined by tire manufacturers using government testing procedures. The ratings are molded into the sidewall of the tire. See Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-66. Vehicle Capacity Weight: The number of designated seating positions multiplied by 150 lbs. (68 kg) plus the rated cargo load. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-34. Vehicle Maximum Load on the Tire: Load on an individual tire due to curb weight, accessory weight, occupant weight and cargo weight. Vehicle Placard: A label permanently attached to a vehicle showing the original equipment tire size and recommended inﬂation pressure. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-34. Inﬂation - Tire Pressure The tire and loading information label, shows the correct inﬂation pressures for your tires when they’re cold. “Cold” means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-34, for the location of your vehicle’s tire and loading information label. Notice: Don’t let anyone tell you that underinﬂation or overinﬂation is all right. It’s not. If your tires don’t have enough air (underinﬂation), you can get the following: Too much ﬂexing Too much heat Tire overloading (cid:127) Bad wear (cid:127) Bad handling (cid:127) Bad fuel economy If your tires have too much air (overinﬂation), you can get the following: (cid:127) Unusual wear (cid:127) Bad handling (cid:127) Rough ride (cid:127) Needless damage from road hazards 5-61 (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Don’t forget your compact spare tire. It should be at 60 psi (420 kPa). How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You can’t tell if your tires are properly inﬂated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inﬂated even when they’re underinﬂated. Check the tire’s inﬂation pressure when the tires are cold. Cold means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km). Remove the valve cap from the tire valve stem. Press the tire gage ﬁrmly onto the valve to get a pressure measurement. If the cold tire inﬂation pressure matches the recommended pressure on the Tire and Loading Information label, no further adjustment is necessary. If the inﬂation pressure is low, add air until you reach the recommended amount. If you overﬁll the tire, release air by pushing on the metal stem in the center of the tire valve. Recheck the tire pressure with the tire gage. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture. Tire Inspection and Rotation Tires should be rotated every 5,000 to 8,000 miles (8 000 to 13 000 km). Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-64 and Wheel Replacement on page 5-67 for more information. The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The ﬁrst rotation is the most important. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4, for scheduled rotation intervals. 5-62 When rotating your tires, always use the correct rotation pattern shown here. Don’t include the compact spare tire in your tire rotation. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inﬂation pressures as shown on the Tire and Loading Information label. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” under Capacities and Speciﬁcations on page 5-95. {CAUTION: Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off. See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index. 5-63 You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true: • You can see the indicators at three or more places around the tire. • You can see cord or fabric showing through the tire’s rubber. • The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged deep enough to show cord or fabric. • The tire has a bump, bulge or split. • The tire has a puncture, cut or other damage that can’t be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage. When It Is Time for New Tires One way to tell when it’s time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining. 5-64 Buying New Tires To ﬁnd out what kind and size of tires you need, look at the tire and loading information label. For an example of this label and its location, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-34. The tires installed on your vehicle when it was new had a Tire Performance Criteria Speciﬁcation (TPC Spec) number on each tire’s sidewall. When you get new tires, get ones with that same TPC Spec number. That way your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give proper endurance, handling, speed rating, load range, traction, ride and other things during normal service on your vehicle. If your tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC number will be followed by an “MS” (for mud and snow). If you ever replace your tires with those not having a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating and construction type (bias, bias-belted or radial) as your original tires. {CAUTION: Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes or types (radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the same size and type tires on all wheels. It’s all right to drive with your compact spare temporarily, it was developed for use on your vehicle. See “Compact Spare Tire” in the index. {CAUTION: If you use bias-ply tires on your vehicle, the wheel rim ﬂanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle. 5-65 Uniform Tire Quality Grading Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum section width. For example: Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, which grades tires by treadwear, traction and temperature performance. (This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.) The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards. Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a speciﬁed government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1.5) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart signiﬁcantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction – AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on speciﬁed government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics. 5-66 Temperature – A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a speciﬁed indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inﬂated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinﬂation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure. Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. Scheduled wheel alignment and wheel balancing are not needed. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling one way or the other, the alignment may need to be reset. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your wheels may need to be rebalanced. Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your dealer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need. Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces. 5-67 If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for your vehicle. {CAUTION: Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for replacement. Notice: The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-70 for more information. Used Replacement Wheels {CAUTION: Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is dangerous. You can’t know how it’s been used or how far it’s been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause a crash. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new GM original equipment wheel. 5-68 Tire Chains {CAUTION: If your vehicle has P225/50R16 size tires, don’t use tire chains, there’s not enough clearance. Tire chains used on a vehicle without the proper amount of clearance can cause damage to the brakes, suspension or other vehicle parts. The area damaged by the tire chains could cause you to lose control of your vehicle and you or others may be injured in a crash. CAUTION: (Continued) CAUTION: (Continued) Use another type of traction device only if its manufacturer recommends it for use on your vehicle and tire size combination and road conditions. Follow that manufacturer’s instructions. To help avoid damage to your vehicle, drive slowly, readjust or remove the device if it’s contacting your vehicle, and don’t spin your wheels. If you do ﬁnd traction devices that will ﬁt, install them on the front tires. Notice: If your vehicle has a tire size other than P225/50R16 size tires, use tire chains only where legal and only when you must. Use only SAE Class “S” type chains that are the proper size for your tires. Install them on the front tires and tighten them as tightly as possible with the ends securely fastened. Drive slowly and follow the chain manufacturer’s instructions. If you can hear the chains contacting your vehicle, stop and retighten them. If the contact continues, slow down until it stops. Driving too fast or spinning the wheels with chains on will damage your vehicle. 5-69 If a Tire Goes Flat It’s unusual for a tire to “blowout” while you’re driving, especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the ﬂat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel ﬁrmly. Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane. A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you’d use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop, well off the road if possible. {CAUTION: Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do maintenance or repairs is dangerous without the appropriate safety equipment and training. The jack provided with your vehicle is designed only for changing a ﬂat tire. If it is used for anything else, you or others could be badly injured or killed if the vehicle slips off the jack. Use the jack provided with your vehicle only for changing a ﬂat tire. If a tire goes ﬂat, the next part shows how to use your jacking equipment to change a ﬂat tire safely. Changing a Flat Tire If a tire goes ﬂat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard warning ﬂashers. 5-70 {CAUTION: Changing a tire can cause an injury. The vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over you or other people. You and they could be badly injured. Find a level place to change your tire. To help prevent the vehicle from moving: 1. Set the parking brake ﬁrmly. 2. Put an automatic transaxle shift lever in PARK (P), or shift a manual transaxle to FIRST (1) or REVERSE (R). 3. Turn off the engine. To be even more certain the vehicle won’t move, you can put blocks at the front and rear of the tire farthest away from the one being changed. That would be the tire on the other side of the vehicle, at the opposite end. The following steps will tell you how to use the jack and change a tire. 5-71 Removing the Spare Tire and Tools The equipment you’ll need is in the trunk. 3. Turn the wing nut counterclockwise and remove it. Then lift off the spacer and remove the compact spare tire. See Compact Spare Tire on page 5-80 for more information about the compact spare. 1. Pull the carpeting from the ﬂoor of the trunk. Turn the center retainer nut on the compact spare tire cover counterclockwise to remove it. 2. Lift and remove the cover. 4. Remove the jack and wheel wrench from the trunk. Your vehicle’s jack and wheel wrench are stored in a foam tray. Remove the band around the jack. 5-72 The tools you’ll be using include the jack (A) and wheel wrench (B). Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire 1. If your vehicle has a wheel cover or hubcap that has a plastic wheel nut cap, then loosen the plastic nut caps (you may need to use the wheel wrench to loosen them). Do not pry off wheel covers or center caps that have plastic wheel nut caps. 2. Remove the wheel cover or center cap. 3. If your vehicle has a wheel cover or hubcap without plastic wheel nut caps, gently pry on the edge of the plastic wheel trim to remove it from the wheel to ﬁnd the wheel nuts.

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2004 Oldsmobile Alero Owners Manual