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CD until the 25-second time period has elapsed. Z (Eject) (Radio with Single CD): Press to eject a CD. Eject can be activated with either the ignition or radio off. CDs can be loaded with the ignition and radio off if this button is pressed first. 1 r (Previous) (Radio with Single CD): Press to go to the start of the current track if more than eight seconds have played. The previous symbol and the track number displays. If this button is held or pressed more than once, the player continues moving backward through the CD. r (Reverse) (Radio with Six-Disc CD Player): Press to reverse within the track. 2 [ (Next) (Radio with Single CD): Press to go to the next track. The next symbol and the track number displays. If this button is held or pressed more than once, the player continues moving forward through the CD.


[ (Fast Forward) (Radio with Six-Disc CD Player): Press to fast forward within the track.


N (Repeat): With repeat, one track or an entire CD can be repeated.


To use repeat, do the following:


To repeat the track you are listening to, press and release this button. RPT ON displays. Press again to turn off repeat play. RPT OFFdisplays. To repeat the CD you are listening to, press and hold this button for two seconds. RPT ON displays. Press again to turn off repeat play. RPT OFF displays.


4 y (Random) (Radio with Single CD): Press to hear the tracks in random, rather than sequential, order. The random symbol displays. Press again to turn off random play.


y (Random) (Radio with Six-Disc CD Player): With random, you can listen to the tracks in random, rather than sequential, order, on one CD or on all of the CDs. To use random, do one of the following:


To play the tracks on the CD you are listening to in random order, press and release this button. RANDOM ONE displays. Press again to turn off random play.


To play the tracks on all of the CDs that are loaded in random order, press and hold this button for more than two seconds. A beep sounds and RANDOM ALL displays. Press again to turn off random play.


t SEEK u (Radio with Single CD): Press the left arrow to go to the start of the current or the previous track. Press the right arrow to go to the start of the next track. Pressing either arrow for more than two seconds searches the previous or next tracks at two tracks per second. Release either arrow to stop searching and to play the track. t SEEK u (Radio with Six-Disc CD Player): Press the left arrow to go to the start of the current track, if more than ten seconds have played. Press the right arrow to go to the next track. If either arrow is held or pressed more than once, the player continues moving backward or forward through the CD.


To scan one CD, press and hold either arrow for more than two seconds until SCAN displays and a beep sounds. The radio goes to the next track, plays for 10 seconds, then goes to the next track. Press either arrow again, to stop scanning.


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(cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) To scan all loaded CDs, press and hold either arrow for more than four seconds until CD SCAN displays and a beep sounds. Use this feature to listen to 10 seconds of the first track of each loaded CD. Press either arrow again, to stop scanning.


DISP (Display): Press to see how long the current track has been playing. The elapsed time of the track displays. To change the default on the display, track or elapsed time, press until you see the desired display, then hold for two seconds. The radio produces one beep and the selected display becomes the default.


BAND: Press to listen to the radio when a CD is playing. The inactive CD(s) remains inside the radio for future listening.


B (CD): Press to play a CD while listening to the radio. The CD symbol displays when a CD is loaded.


AUTO EQ (Automatic Equalization): Press to select an equalization setting while playing a CD. The equalization is set when a CD is played. See “AUTO EQ” listed previously for more information. If you select an EQ setting for your CD, it is activated each time you play a CD.


Using Song List Mode (Radio with Six-Disc CD Player)


R (Song List): The six-disc CD changer has a feature called song list. This feature is capable of saving 20 track selections. To save tracks into the song list feature, perform the following steps: 1. Turn the CD player on and load it with at least one CD. See “LOAD CD” listed previously in this section for more information.


2. Check to see that the CD changer is not in song list


mode. S-LIST should not display. If S-LIST is present, press the R button to turn it off.


3. Select the desired CD by pressing the numbered


pushbutton and then use the right u SEEK arrow to locate the track to be saved. The track begins to play.


4. Press and hold the R button to save the track


into memory. When this button is pressed, one beep sounds. After two seconds of continuously pressing this button, two beeps sounds to confirm the track has been saved.


5. Repeat Steps 3 and 4 for saving other selections.


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To delete the entire song list, perform the following steps: 1. Turn the CD player on. 2. Press the R button to turn song list on. S-LIST


displays.


3. Press and hold the R button for more than four seconds. One beep sounds, followed by two beeps after two seconds, and a final beep sounds after four seconds. S-LIST EMPTY displays indicating the song list has been deleted.


If a CD is ejected, and the song list contains saved tracks from that CD, those tracks are automatically deleted from the song list. Any tracks saved to the song list again are added to the bottom of the list.


To end song list mode, press the R button. One beep sounds and S-LIST is removed from the display.


S-LIST FULL displays if you try to save more than 20 selections.


To play the song list, press the R button. One beep sounds and S-LIST displays. The recorded tracks begins to play in the order they were saved. Seek through the song list by using the SEEK arrows. Seeking past the last saved track returns to the first saved track. To delete tracks from the song list, perform the following steps: 1. Turn the CD player on. 2. Press the R button to turn song list on. S-LIST


displays.


3. Press either SEEK arrow to select the desired track


to be deleted.


4. Press and hold the R button for two seconds. When this button is pressed, one beep sounds. After two seconds of continuously pressing this button, two beeps sound to confirm that the track has been deleted.


After a track has been deleted, the remaining tracks are moved up the list. When another track is added to the song list, the track is added to the end of the list.


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CD Messages


XM Radio Messages


CHECK CD: If this message displays and/or the CD comes out, it could be for one of the following reasons:


It is very hot. When the temperature returns to normal, the CD should play.


(cid:129) You are driving on a very rough road. When the


road becomes smoother, the CD should play. The CD is dirty, scratched, wet, or upside down. The air is very humid. If so, wait about an hour and try again. The format of the CD might not be compatible. There could have been a problem while burning the CD. The label could be caught in the CD player.


If the CD is not playing correctly, for any other reason, try a known good CD. If any error occurs repeatedly or if an error cannot be corrected, contact your dealer/retailer. If the radio displays an error message, write it down and provide it to your dealer/retailer when reporting the problem.


xL (Explicit Language Channels): These channels, or any others, can be blocked at a customer’s request, by calling 1-800-852-XMXM (9696).


Updating: The encryption code in the receiver is being updated, and no action is required. This process should take no longer than 30 seconds.


No Signal: The system is functioning correctly, but the vehicle is in a location that is blocking the XM™ signal. When the vehicle is moved into an open area, the signal should return.


Loading XM: The audio system is acquiring and processing audio and text data. No action is needed. This message should disappear shortly.


CH Off Air: This channel is not currently in service. Tune in to another channel.


CH Unavail: This previously assigned channel is no longer assigned. Tune to another station. If this station was one of the presets, choose another station for that preset button.


No Info: No artist, song title, category, or text information is available at this time on this channel. The system is working properly.


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(cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) Not Found: There are no channels available for the selected category. The system is working properly.


XM Locked: The XM™ receiver in your vehicle may have previously been in another vehicle. For security purposes, XM™ receivers cannot be swapped between vehicles. If this message is received after having your vehicle serviced, check with your dealer/retailer.


Radio ID: If tuned to channel 0, this message will alternate with the XM Radio 8 digit radio ID label. This label is needed to activate the service.


Unknown: If this message is received when tuned to channel 0, there may be a receiver fault. Consult with your dealer/retailer.


Chk XMRcvr: If this message does not clear within a short period of time, the receiver may have a fault. Consult with your dealer/retailer.


Navigation/Radio System Your vehicle may have a navigation radio system. The navigation system has built-in features intended to minimize driver distraction. Technology alone, no matter how advanced, can never replace your own judgment. See the Navigation System manual for some tips to help you reduce distractions while driving.


Theft-Deterrent Feature THEFTLOCK® is designed to discourage theft of your vehicle’s radio. The feature works automatically by learning a portion of the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). If the radio is moved to a different vehicle, it does not operate and LOCKED displays. When the radio and vehicle are turned off, the blinking red light indicates that THEFTLOCK® is armed. With THEFTLOCK® activated, the radio does not operate if stolen.


Radio Reception Frequency interference and static during normal radio reception can occur if items such as cellphone chargers, vehicle convenience accessories, and external electronic devices are plugged into the accessory power outlet. If there is interference or static, unplug the item from the accessory power outlet.


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Fixed Mast Antenna The fixed mast antenna can withstand most car washes without being damaged. If the mast should ever become slightly bent, straighten it out by hand. If the mast is badly bent, replace it. Check occasionally to make sure the mast is still tightened to its base. If tightening is required, tighten by hand, then with a wrench one quarter turn.


XM™ Satellite Radio Antenna System The XM™ Satellite Radio antenna is located on the roof of your vehicle. Keep this antenna clear of snow and ice build up for clear radio reception. If your vehicle has a sunroof, the performance of the XM™ system may be affected if the sunroof is open. Loading items onto the roof of your vehicle can interfere with the performance of the XM™ system. Make sure the XM™ Satellite Radio antenna is not obstructed.


AM The range for most AM stations is greater than for FM, especially at night. The longer range can cause station frequencies to interfere with each other. For better radio reception, most AM radio stations boost the power levels during the day, and then reduce these levels during the night. Static can also occur when things like storms and power lines interfere with radio reception. When this happens, try reducing the treble on your radio. FM Stereo FM stereo gives the best sound, but FM signals reach only about 10 to 40 miles (16 to 65 km). Tall buildings or hills can interfere with FM signals, causing the sound to fade in and out. XM™ Satellite Radio Service XM™ Satellite Radio Service gives digital radio reception from coast-to-coast in the 48 contiguous United States, and in Canada. Just as with FM, tall buildings or hills can interfere with satellite radio signals, causing the sound to fade in and out. In addition, traveling or standing under heavy foliage, bridges, garages, or tunnels may cause loss of the XM™ signal for a period of time. The radio may display NO SIGNAL to indicate interference.


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Section 4


Driving Your Vehicle


Your Driving, the Road, and Your Vehicle ..........4-2
Defensive Driving ...........................................4-2
Drunk Driving .................................................4-2
Control of a Vehicle ........................................4-3
Braking .........................................................4-3
Antilock Brake System (ABS) ...........................4-4
Braking in Emergencies ...................................4-5
Traction Control System (TCS) .........................4-5
Locking Rear Axle ..........................................4-6
StabiliTrak® System ........................................4-7
Steering ........................................................4-8
Off-Road Recovery .......................................4-10
Passing .......................................................4-10
Loss of Control .............................................4-10
Off-Road Driving ...........................................4-12
Assist Steps .................................................4-31


Driving at Night ............................................4-32
Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads ..................4-33
Before Leaving on a Long Trip .......................4-34
Highway Hypnosis ........................................4-34
Hill and Mountain Roads ................................4-34
Winter Driving ..............................................4-35
If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand,


Mud, Ice, or Snow .....................................4-39
Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out .................4-40
Recovery Loops ...........................................4-40
Loading Your Vehicle ....................................4-42
Towing ..........................................................4-48
Towing Your Vehicle .....................................4-48
Recreational Vehicle Towing ...........................4-48
Towing a Trailer ...........................................4-50
Trailer Recommendations ...............................4-62


4-1


Your Driving, the Road, and Your Vehicle


Defensive Driving Defensive driving means “always expect the unexpected.” The first step in driving defensively is to wear your safety belt — See Safety Belts: They Are for Everyone on page 1-10.


{CAUTION:


Assume that other road users (pedestrians, bicyclists, and other drivers) are going to be careless and make mistakes. Anticipate what they might do and be ready. In addition:


(cid:129) Allow enough following distance between


you and the driver in front of you.


(cid:129) Focus on the task of driving.


Driver distraction can cause collisions resulting in injury or possible death. These simple defensive driving techniques could save your life.


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Drunk Driving


{CAUTION:


Drinking and then driving is very dangerous. Your reflexes, perceptions, attentiveness, and judgment can be affected by even a small amount of alcohol. You can have a serious — or even fatal — collision if you drive after drinking. Do not drink and drive or ride with a driver who has been drinking. Ride home in a cab; or if you are with a group, designate a driver who will not drink.


Death and injury associated with drinking and driving is a global tragedy. Alcohol affects four things that anyone needs to drive a vehicle: judgment, muscular coordination, vision, and attentiveness. Police records show that almost 40 percent of all motor vehicle-related deaths involve alcohol. In most cases, these deaths are the result of someone who was drinking and driving. In recent years, more than 17,000 annual motor vehicle-related deaths have been associated with the use of alcohol, with about 250,000 people injured.


For persons under 21, it is against the law in every U.S. state to drink alcohol. There are good medical, psychological, and developmental reasons for these laws. The obvious way to eliminate the leading highway safety problem is for people never to drink alcohol and then drive. Medical research shows that alcohol in a person’s system can make crash injuries worse, especially injuries to the brain, spinal cord, or heart. This means that when anyone who has been drinking — driver or passenger — is in a crash, that person’s chance of being killed or permanently disabled is higher than if the person had not been drinking.


Control of a Vehicle The following three systems help to control your vehicle while driving — brakes, steering, and accelerator. At times, as when driving on snow or ice, it is easy to ask more of those control systems than the tires and road can provide. Meaning, you can lose control of your vehicle. See Traction Control System (TCS) on page 4-5. Adding non-dealer/non-retailer accessories can affect your vehicle’s performance. See Accessories and Modifications on page 5-3.


Braking See Brake System Warning Light on page 3-33. Braking action involves perception time and reaction time. First, you have to decide to push on the brake pedal. That is perception time. Then you have to bring up your foot and do it. That is reaction time. Average reaction time is about three-fourths of a second. But that is only an average. It might be less with one driver and as long as two or three seconds or more with another. Age, physical condition, alertness, coordination, and eyesight all play a part. So do alcohol, drugs, and frustration. But even in three-fourths of a second, a vehicle moving at 60 mph (100 km/h) travels 66 feet (20 m). That could be a lot of distance in an emergency, so keeping enough space between your vehicle and others is important. And, of course, actual stopping distances vary greatly with the surface of the road, whether it is pavement or gravel; the condition of the road, whether it is wet, dry, or icy; tire tread; the condition of the brakes; the weight of the vehicle; and the amount of brake force applied. Avoid needless heavy braking. Some people drive in spurts — heavy acceleration followed by heavy braking — rather than keeping pace with traffic.


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This is a mistake. The brakes might not have time to cool between hard stops. The brakes will wear out much faster if you do a lot of heavy braking. If you keep pace with the traffic and allow realistic following distances, you will eliminate a lot of unnecessary braking. That means better braking and longer brake life. If your vehicle ever loses electrical power while you are driving, brake normally but do not pump the brakes. If you do, the pedal could get harder to push down. If your vehicle loses electrical power, you will still have some power brake assist. But you will use it when you brake. Once the power assist is used up, it can take longer to stop, the brake pedal will be harder to push, and you might experience longer pedal travel. Adding non-dealer/non-retailer accessories can affect your vehicle’s performance. See Accessories and Modifications on page 5-3.


Antilock Brake System (ABS) Your vehicle has the Antilock Brake System (ABS), an advanced electronic braking system that will help prevent a braking skid. When you start the engine and begin to drive away, ABS will check itself. You might hear a momentary motor or clicking noise while this test is going on. This is normal.


If there is a problem with ABS, this warning light will stay on. See Antilock Brake System Warning Light on page 3-34.


Let us say the road is wet and you are driving safely. Suddenly, an animal jumps out in front of you. You slam on the brakes and continue braking. Here is what happens with ABS: A computer senses that wheels are slowing down. If one of the wheels is about to stop rolling, the computer will separately work the brakes at each wheel.


4-4


ABS can change the brake pressure faster than any driver could. The computer is programmed to make the most of available tire and road conditions. This can help you steer around the obstacle while braking hard. As you brake, the computer keeps receiving updates on wheel speed and controls braking pressure accordingly. Remember: ABS does not change the time you need to get your foot up to the brake pedal or always decrease stopping distance. If you get too close to the vehicle in front of you, you will not have time to apply the brakes if that vehicle suddenly slows or stops. Always leave enough room up ahead to stop, even though you have ABS. Using ABS Do not pump the brakes. Just hold the brake pedal down firmly and let antilock work for you. You might feel the brakes vibrate or notice some noise, but this is normal.


Braking in Emergencies With ABS, you can steer and brake at the same time. In many emergencies, steering can help you more than even the very best braking.


Traction Control System (TCS) Your vehicle has a Traction Control System (TCS) that limits wheel spin. This is especially useful in slippery road conditions. The system operates only if it senses that any of the wheels are spinning or beginning to lose traction. When this happens, the system applies the brakes to limit wheel spin and also reduces engine power. You may feel or hear the system working, but this is normal. The Traction Control System may operate on dry roads under some conditions. When this happens, you may notice a reduction in acceleration or a pumping sound. This is normal and doesn’t mean there’s a problem with your vehicle. Examples of these conditions include hard acceleration in a turn, an abrupt upshift or downshift of the transmission or driving on rough roads. If your vehicle is in cruise control when the TCS begins to limit wheel spin, the cruise control will automatically disengage. When road conditions allow you to safely use it again, you may re-engage the cruise control. See Cruise Control on page 3-11. If your vehicle has a Driver information Center (DIC), a TRACTION FAULT message will appear when a Traction Control System or Anti-Lock Brake System problem has been detected and the vehicle needs service. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-43
for more information.


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When this message is on, the system will not limit wheel spin. Adjust your driving accordingly. The traction control system automatically comes on whenever you start your vehicle. To limit wheel spin, especially in slippery road conditions, you should always leave the system on. But you can turn the traction control system off if you ever need to.


To turn the system off, press and hold the TCS button for five seconds.


This light will come on steady when the traction control system has been turned off. This light flashes when TCS is active.


If you press and hold the TC button for five seconds, the traction control system will turn off and a TRAC OFF message will appear on the DIC. Press the TC button again to turn the system back on. The TRAC OFF message will then go off. The traction control system will reset itself at each ignition cycle. Adding non-dealer/non-retailer accessories can affect your vehicle’s performance. See Accessories and Modifications on page 5-3 for more information. Locking Rear Axle Your vehicle may have this feature. The locking rear axle can give your vehicle additional traction from the rear wheels when traveling in off-road situations such as mud, snow, sand, steep hills and uneven terrain.


The button used to turn this feature on or off is located to the right of the transfer case buttons on the center of the instrument panel.


4-6


To lock the rear axle, do the following: 1. Place the transfer case in the 4LO Lock mode. This


is the only mode which will allow the rear axle to lock. See Full-Time Four-Wheel Drive on page 2-27
for more information regarding the transfer case and 4LO Lock mode.


2. Press the button with the vehicle stopped or moving


less than 2 mph (3 km/h).


If you try to lock the rear axle while your


You must wait for the light in the button to stop flashing and remain illuminated before the rear axle is locked. Notice: vehicle is stuck and the tires are spinning, you could damage your vehicle’s drivetrain. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always lock the rear axle before attempting situations and/or navigating terrain which could possibly cause the vehicle to become stuck. The locking rear axle will be disengaged when the wheel speed is greater than 20 mph (32 km/h), if the vehicle’s battery is low and/or the transfer case is shifted out of 4LO Lock mode. Notice: pavement, you could damage your vehicle’s drivetrain. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not use the locking rear axle on pavement. If you need four-wheel drive when traveling on pavement, use only 4HI.


If you lock the rear axle while driving on


StabiliTrak® System Your vehicle has a vehicle stability enhancement system called StabiliTrak®. It is an advanced computer controlled system that assists you with directional control of the vehicle in difficult driving conditions. StabiliTrak® activates when the computer senses a discrepancy between your intended path and the direction the vehicle is actually traveling. StabiliTrak® selectively applies braking pressure at any one of the vehicle’s brakes to assist the driver with keeping the vehicle on the intended path. When you first start your vehicle and begin to drive away, the system performs several diagnostic checks to insure there are no problems. You may hear or feel the system working. This is normal and does not mean there is a problem with your vehicle. If there is a problem detected with StabiliTrak®, a SERVICE STAB SYS message will be displayed on the Driver Information Center (DIC). See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-43 for more information. When this message is displayed, the system is not operational. Adjust your driving accordingly.


4-7


StabiliTrak® comes on automatically whenever you start your vehicle. However, when the transfer case is placed in Four-Wheel-Low Lock mode, StabiliTrak® is automatically disabled. See Full-Time Four-Wheel Drive on page 2-27 for more information. To help assist you with directional control of the vehicle, you should always leave the system on. You can turn StabiliTrak® off if you ever need to using the TC (traction control) on/off button. If you press and hold the TC button for five seconds, the StabiliTrak® system and the traction control system will turn off. When this is done, the STAB SYS OFF message will be displayed on the DIC. Press the TC button again to turn StabiliTrak® back on. See Traction Control System (TCS) on page 4-5. If your vehicle is in cruise control when the StabiliTrak® activates, the cruise control will automatically disengage. When road conditions allow you to safely use it again, you may reengage the cruise control. See Cruise Control on page 3-11 for more information.


Steering Power Steering If you lose power steering assist because the engine stops or the system is not functioning, you can steer but it will take much more effort.


4-8


Steering Tips It is important to take curves at a reasonable speed. A lot of the “driver lost control” accidents mentioned on the news happen on curves. Here is why: Experienced driver or beginner, each of us is subject to the same laws of physics when driving on curves. The traction of the tires against the road surface makes it possible for the vehicle to change its path when you turn the front wheels. If there is no traction, inertia will keep the vehicle going in the same direction. If you have ever tried to steer a vehicle on wet ice, you will understand this. The traction you can get in a curve depends on the condition of the tires and the road surface, the angle at which the curve is banked, and your speed. While you are in a curve, speed is the one factor you can control. Suppose you are steering through a sharp curve. Then you suddenly accelerate. Both control systems — steering and acceleration — have to do their work where the tires meet the road. Adding the sudden acceleration can demand too much of those places. You can lose control. See Traction Control System (TCS) on page 4-5 and StabiliTrak® System on page 4-7. What should you do if this ever happens? Ease up on the accelerator pedal, steer the vehicle the way you want it to go, and slow down.


Speed limit signs near curves warn that you should adjust your speed. Of course, the posted speeds are based on good weather and road conditions. Under less favorable conditions you will want to go slower. If you need to reduce your speed as you approach a curve, do it before you enter the curve, while the front wheels are straight ahead. Try to adjust your speed so you can drive through the curve. Maintain a reasonable, steady speed. Wait to accelerate until you are out of the curve, and then accelerate gently into the straightaway. Adding non-dealer/non-retailer accessories can affect your vehicle’s performance. See Accessories and Modifications on page 5-3. Steering in Emergencies There are times when steering can be more effective than braking. For example, you come over a hill and find a truck stopped in your lane, or a car suddenly pulls out from nowhere, or a child darts out from between parked cars and stops right in front of you. You can avoid these problems by braking — if you can stop in time. But sometimes you cannot; there is not room. That is the time for evasive action — steering around the problem. Your vehicle can perform very well in emergencies like these. First apply the brakes. See Braking on page 4-3. It is better to remove as much speed as you can from a possible collision. Then steer around the problem, to the left or right depending on the space available.


An emergency like this requires close attention and a quick decision. If you are holding the steering wheel at the recommended 9 and 3 o’clock positions, you can turn it a full 180 degrees very quickly without removing either hand. But you have to act fast, steer quickly, and just as quickly straighten the wheel once you have avoided the object. The fact that such emergency situations are always possible is a good reason to practice defensive driving at all times and wear safety belts properly.


4-9


Off-Road Recovery You may find that your right wheels have dropped off the edge of a road onto the shoulder while you are driving.


If the level of the shoulder is only slightly below the pavement, recovery should be fairly easy. Ease off the accelerator and then, if there is nothing in the way, steer so that your vehicle straddles the edge of the pavement. You can turn the steering wheel up to one-quarter turn until the right front tire contacts the pavement edge. Then turn the steering wheel to go straight down the roadway.


4-10


Passing Passing another vehicle on a two-lane road can be dangerous. To reduce the risk of danger while passing, we suggest the following tips:


Look down the road, to the sides, and to crossroads for situations that might affect a successful pass. If in doubt, wait.


(cid:129) Watch for traffic signs, pavement markings, and lines that could indicate a turn or an intersection. Never cross a solid or double-solid line on your side of the lane.


(cid:129) Do not get too close to the vehicle you want to


pass. Doing so can reduce your visibility.


(cid:129) Wait your turn to pass a slow vehicle. (cid:129) When you are being passed, ease to the right.


Loss of Control Let us review what driving experts say about what happens when the three control systems — brakes, steering, and acceleration — do not have enough friction where the tires meet the road to do what the driver has asked. In any emergency, do not give up. Keep trying to steer and constantly seek an escape route or area of less danger.


(cid:129) Skidding In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle. Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking reasonable care suited to existing conditions, and by not overdriving those conditions. But skids are always possible. The three types of skids correspond to your vehicle’s three control systems. In the braking skid, the wheels are not rolling. In the steering or cornering skid, too much speed or steering in a curve causes tires to slip and lose cornering force. And in the acceleration skid, too much throttle causes the driving wheels to spin. A cornering skid is best handled by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal. Remember: Any traction control system helps avoid only the acceleration skid. If your traction system is off, then an acceleration skid is also best handled by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal. See Traction Control System (TCS) on page 4-5
and StabiliTrak® System on page 4-7.


If your vehicle starts to slide, ease your foot off the accelerator pedal and quickly steer the way you want the vehicle to go. If you start steering quickly enough, your vehicle may straighten out. Always be ready for a second skid if it occurs. Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice, gravel, or other material is on the road. For safety, you will want to slow down and adjust your driving to these conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and vehicle control more limited. While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try your best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration, or braking, including reducing vehicle speed by shifting to a lower gear. Any sudden changes could cause the tires to slide. You may not realize the surface is slippery until your vehicle is skidding. Learn to recognize warning clues — such as enough water, ice, or packed snow on the road to make a mirrored surface — and slow down when you have any doubt. Remember: Any Antilock Brake System (ABS) helps avoid only the braking skid.


4-11


Before You Go Off-Roading There are some things to do before you go out. For example, be sure to have all necessary maintenance and service work done. Check to make sure all underbody shields are properly attached. Make sure any equipment you may need — first aid kit, cell phone, flashlight, etc. — is securely stored in the vehicle. Be sure you read all the information about your four-wheel-drive vehicle in this manual. Is there enough fuel? Is the spare tire fully inflated? Are the fluid levels up where they should be? What are the local laws that apply to off-roading where you will be driving? If you do not know, you should check with law enforcement people in the area. Will you be on someone’s private land? If so, be sure to get the necessary permission.


Off-Road Driving This off-road guide is meant to provide advice for when you drive your vehicle off paved roads. Also, see Braking on page 4-3. Off-road driving can be great fun. But it does have some definite hazards. The greatest of these is the terrain itself. The airbag system is designed to work properly under a wide range of conditions, including off-road usage. Observe safe driving speeds, especially on rough terrain. As always, wear your safety belt. “Off-roading” means you have left the great North American road system behind. Traffic lanes are not marked. Curves are not banked. There are no road signs. Surfaces can be slippery, rough, uphill or downhill. In short, you have gone right back to nature. Off-road driving involves some new skills. And that is why it is very important that you read this guide. You will find many driving tips and suggestions. These will help make your off-road driving safer and more enjoyable.


4-12


There are some important things to remember about how to load your vehicle.


The heaviest things should be on the load floor and forward of your rear axle. Put heavier items in the rear area, as far forward as you can.


(cid:129) Be sure the load is secured properly, so driving on


the off-road terrain does not toss things around.


You will find other important information in this manual. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-42 and Tires on page 5-54.


Loading Your Vehicle for Off-Road Driving


{CAUTION:


(cid:129) Cargo on the load floor piled higher than


the seatbacks can be thrown forward during a sudden stop. You or your passengers could be injured. Keep cargo below the top of the seatbacks.


(cid:129) Unsecured cargo on the load floor can be


tossed about when driving over rough terrain. You or your passengers can be struck by flying objects. Secure the cargo properly.


(cid:129) Heavy loads on the roof raise the vehicle’s


center of gravity, making it more likely to roll over. You can be seriously or fatally injured if the vehicle rolls over. Put heavy loads inside the cargo area, not on the roof. Keep cargo in the cargo area as far forward and low as possible.


4-13


(cid:129) Traveling to Remote Areas It makes sense to plan your trip, especially when going to a remote area. Know the terrain and plan your route. You are much less likely to get bad surprises. Get accurate maps of trails and terrain. Try to learn of any blocked or closed roads. It is also a good idea to travel with at least one other vehicle. If something happens to one of them, the other can help quickly. Does your vehicle have a winch? If so, be sure to read the winch instructions. In a remote area, a winch can be handy if you get stuck. But you will want to know how to use it properly.


High Mobility Characteristics Your vehicle has a 10 inch (25.4 cm) running ground clearance (A), a 9 inch (22.8 cm) axle to ground clearance (B), and a low center of gravity.


Environmental Concerns Off-road driving can provide wholesome and satisfying recreation. However, it also raises environmental concerns. We recognize these concerns and urge every off-roader to follow these basic rules for protecting the environment: (cid:129) Always use established trails, roads, and areas that


have been specially set aside for public off-road recreational driving; obey all posted regulations. (cid:129) Avoid any driving practice that could damage the


environment — shrubs, flowers, trees, grasses — or disturb wildlife. This includes wheel-spinning, breaking down trees, or unnecessary driving through streams or over soft ground.


(cid:129) Always carry a litter bag — make sure all refuse is


removed from any campsite before leaving. Take extreme care with open fires (where permitted), camp stoves, and lanterns.


(cid:129) Never park your vehicle over dry grass or other combustible materials that could catch fire from the heat of the vehicle’s exhaust system.


4-14


(cid:129) Your vehicle has an approximate approach angle (A) of 37.5 degrees and a departure angle (B) of 35.5 degrees, depending on suspension packages.


4-15


Design specifications required a minimum gradeability of 60% (31 degrees) slope, with the vehicle fully loaded, on high friction surfaces with maximum vehicle speed not to exceed 6 mph (9.7 km/h). The vehicle is expected to traverse this grade only for short durations. Never stop and idle the vehicle or park it on this grade.


Also, your vehicle should be able to traverse a 40% (22 degrees) side slope at 6 mph (9.7 km/h) while fully loaded on high friction surfaces.


4-16


Brake and Accelerator Operation Techniques for Off-Road Driving For logs, walls, rocks, severe ditches, hills, sand, etc. 1. Bring the vehicle to a complete stop. Do not rev


the engine.


2. Select the proper transmission and transfer


case gear range; usually FIRST (1) gear, Four-Wheel-Low Lock for such obstacles.


3. If wheel spin is experienced, maintain steady throttle, with your foot off the brake pedal, to allow the Traction Control System (TCS) to control the wheel spin. TCS might not operate if the brakes are applied.


4. If wheel spin cannot be controlled by the TCS system, fully press the brake pedal with your left foot so all wheel spin is stopped.


5. Back away from the obstacle so that a new


approach can be tried.


6. As the first wheel crosses the obstacle, be


prepared to alternate the brake and accelerator pedal to maintain control and avoid tire drop-off from obstacles. Repeat this process for the other wheels.


4-17


Your vehicle can climb a 16 inch (40.6 cm) vertical step. Step climbing is best done by approaching the step at an angle rather than straight on.


For mounds, washouts, loose up-hill slopes, ditches, etc. When wheel spin occurs as the vehicle is moving, the driver may notice a slight shaking or shuddering of the vehicle. This should be stopped as soon as possible to prevent damage to vehicle components. This is the indication that a loss of traction is occurring on this terrain. The operator should: 1. Reduce speed and apply the brakes. 2. Assess the terrain properly and adjust


vehicle speed and gear ranges accordingly: Four-Wheel High position for higher speeds and Four-Wheel-Low Lock for more torque and lower speeds. Transmission FIRST (1) gear is generally recommended.


3. Apply slight pressure to the brake when the


shaking or shuddering sensation is felt, keeping the vehicle moving in a controlled manner.


4. Be prepared to alternate between braking and


accelerating through the adverse terrain.


Getting Familiar with Off-Road Driving It is a good idea to practice in an area that is safe and close to home before you go into the wilderness. Off-road driving does require some new and different skills. Here is what we mean. Tune your senses to different kinds of signals. Your eyes, for example, need to constantly sweep the terrain for unexpected obstacles. Your ears need to listen for unusual tire or engine sounds. With your arms, hands, feet, and body, you will need to respond to vibrations and vehicle bounce. Controlling your vehicle is the key to successful off-road driving. One of the best ways to control your vehicle is to control your speed. Here are some things to keep in mind. At higher speeds: (cid:129) You approach things faster and you have less time


to scan the terrain for obstacles.


(cid:129) You have less time to react. (cid:129) You have more vehicle bounce when you drive


over obstacles.


(cid:129) You will need more distance for braking, especially


since you are on an unpaved surface.


4-18


{CAUTION:


When you are driving off-road, bouncing and quick changes in direction can easily throw you out of position. This could cause you to lose control and crash. So, whether you are driving on or off the road, you and your passengers should wear safety belts.


Scanning the Terrain Off-road driving can take you over many different kinds of terrain. You need to be familiar with the terrain and its many different features. Here are some things to consider.


Surface Conditions: Off-roading can take you over hard-packed dirt, gravel, rocks, grass, sand, mud, snow, or ice. Each of these surfaces affects the steering, acceleration, and braking of your vehicle in different ways. Depending upon the kind of surface you are on, you may experience slipping, sliding, wheel spinning, delayed acceleration, poor traction, and longer braking distances.


Surface Obstacles: Unseen or hidden obstacles can be hazardous. A rock, log, hole, rut, or bump can startle you if you are not prepared for them. Often these obstacles are hidden by grass, bushes, snow, or even the rise and fall of the terrain itself. Here are some things to consider:


Is the path ahead clear?


(cid:129) Will the surface texture change abruptly up ahead? (cid:129) Does the travel take you uphill or downhill?


There is more discussion of these subjects later.


(cid:129) Will you have to stop suddenly or change


direction quickly?


When you drive over obstacles or rough terrain, keep a firm grip on the steering wheel. Ruts, troughs, or other surface features can jerk the wheel out of your hands if you are not prepared. When possible, it is a good practice to survey the landscape ahead on foot prior to driving to observe hidden obstacles. When you drive over bumps, rocks, or other obstacles, the wheels can leave the ground. If this happens, even with one or two wheels, you cannot control the vehicle as well or at all.


4-19


(cid:129) Because you will be on an unpaved surface, it is especially important to avoid sudden acceleration, sudden turns, or sudden braking. In a way, off-road driving requires a different kind of alertness from driving on paved roads and highways. There are no road signs, posted speed limits, or signal lights. You have to use your own good judgment about what is safe and what is not. Drinking and driving can be very dangerous on any road. And this is certainly true for off-road driving. At the very time you need special alertness and driving skills, your reflexes, perceptions, and judgment can be affected by even a small amount of alcohol. You could have a serious — or even fatal — accident if you drink and drive or ride with a driver who has been drinking. See Drunk Driving on page 4-2.


Crossing Obstacles Approach Angle — a Key to Mobility If you encounter a large dip in the terrain, do not enter straight on; enter at an angle — 15 degrees minimum approach (A), 75 degrees maximum approach angle (B). For very large dips, ditches, or small washes, coast in, using the engine as a brake (transmission and transfer case lowest gears). Then, use the low ranges in the transmission and transfer case to power out.


4-20


Roll Your Tires Over Large Rocks


Do not straddle large rocks; drive over them, letting the tire cover the rock. The tread of the tire is thicker and tougher than the sidewall of the tire and is more resilient to impact than underbody components.


Log Crossing Using the proper technique, your vehicle will cross logs up to 10 inches (25.4 cm) in diameter. Approach the log at approximately a 15 degree angle (A) with the transmission in FIRST (1) and the transfer case in Four-Wheel-Low Lock and “walk” your vehicle over, one tire at a time. It may be necessary to modulate your brake pedal and accelerator to avoid spin-out. Ease the vehicle down from the log with your brake.


4-21


Driving on Off-Road Hills Off-road driving often takes you up, down, or across a hill. Driving safely on hills requires good judgment and an understanding of what your vehicle can and cannot do. There are some hills that simply cannot be driven, no matter how well built the vehicle.


{CAUTION:


Many hills are simply too steep for any vehicle. If you drive up them, you will stall. If you drive down them, you cannot control your speed. If you drive across them, you will roll over. You could be seriously injured or killed. If you have any doubt about the steepness, do not drive the hill.


4-22


Approaching a Hill When you approach a hill, you need to decide if it is one of those hills that is just too steep to climb, descend, or cross. Steepness can be hard to judge. On a very small hill, for example, there may be a smooth, constant incline with only a small change in elevation where you can easily see all the way to the top. On a large hill, the incline may get steeper as you near the top, but you may not see this because the crest of the hill is hidden by bushes, grass, or shrubs. Here are some other things to consider as you approach a hill:


Is there a constant incline, or does the hill get sharply steeper in places? Is there good traction on the hillside, or will the surface cause tire slipping? Is there a straight path up or down the hill so you will not have to make turning maneuvers?


(cid:129) Are there obstructions on the hill that can block your path, such as boulders, trees, logs, or ruts?


(cid:129) What is beyond the hill? Is there a cliff, an


embankment, a drop-off, a fence? Get out and walk the hill if you do not know. It is the smart way to find out. Is the hill simply too rough? Steep hills often have ruts, gullies, troughs, and exposed rocks because they are more susceptible to the effects of erosion.


(cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) Driving Uphill Once you decide you can safely drive up the hill, you need to take some special steps: (cid:129) Use transmission and transfer case low gear


and get a firm grip on the steering wheel.


(cid:129) Get a smooth start up the hill and try to maintain


your speed. Do not use more power than you need, because you do not want the wheels to start spinning or sliding. Let the traction system work to control any wheel slippage. The traction control system allows for moderate wheel spin with some capability to dig in and power up the hill.


(cid:129) Do not continue if the vehicle shudders or exhibits


suspension hopping. This can cause damage to the driveline or suspension components. Improper driving technique is not covered by your vehicle warranty.


{CAUTION:


Turning or driving across steep hills can be dangerous. You could lose traction, slide sideways, and possibly roll over. You could be seriously injured or killed. When driving up hills, always try to go straight up.


Try to drive straight up the hill if at all possible. If the path twists and turns, you might want to find another route.


(cid:129) Ease up on your speed as you approach the top


of the hill.


(cid:129) Attach a flag to the vehicle to make you more visible to approaching traffic on trails or hills.


4-23


(cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) Sound the horn as you approach the top of the


hill to let opposing traffic know you are there.


(cid:129) Use your headlamps even during the day.


They make your vehicle more visible to oncoming traffic.


{CAUTION:


Driving to the top (crest) of a hill at full speed can cause an accident. There could be a drop-off, embankment, cliff, or even another vehicle. You could be seriously injured or killed. As you near the top of a hill, slow down and stay alert.


There are some things you should do if the vehicle stalls, or is about to stall, and you cannot make it up the hill: (cid:129) Push the brake pedal to stop the vehicle and keep it from rolling backwards. Also, apply the parking brake. If your engine is still running, shift the transmission to REVERSE (R), release the parking brake, and slowly back down the hill in REVERSE (R). If your engine has stopped running, you will need to restart it. With the brake pedal pressed, apply the parking brake. If you have an automatic transmission, shift the transmission to PARK (P). Restart the engine. Then, shift to REVERSE (R), release the parking brake, and slowly back down the hill as straight as possible in REVERSE (R).


(cid:129) As you are backing down the hill, put your left hand


on the steering wheel at the 12 o’clock position. This way, you will be able to tell if your wheels are straight and maneuver as you back down. It is best that you back down the hill with your wheels straight rather than in the left or right direction. Turning the wheel too far to the left or right will increase the possibility of a rollover.


4-24


(cid:129) (cid:129) There are also some things you must not do if you stall, or are about to stall, when going up a hill: (cid:129) Never attempt to prevent a stall by shifting into NEUTRAL (N) to rev-up the engine and regain forward momentum. This will not work. Your vehicle will roll backwards very quickly and you could go out of control. Instead, apply the regular brake to stop the vehicle. Then apply the parking brake. Shift to REVERSE (R), release the parking brake, and slowly back straight down.


(cid:129) Never attempt to turn around if you are about to


stall when going up a hill. If the hill is steep enough to stall your vehicle, it is steep enough to cause you to roll over if you turn around. If you cannot make it up the hill, you must back straight down the hill.


If, after stalling, you try to back down the hill and decide you just cannot do it, set the parking brake. If you have an automatic transmission, shift to PARK (P). Turn off the engine. Leave the vehicle and go get some help. Exit on the uphill side and stay clear of the path the vehicle would take if it rolled downhill. Do not shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL when you leave the vehicle. Leave it in some gear.


{CAUTION:


Shifting the transfer case to NEUTRAL can cause your vehicle to roll even if the transmission is in PARK (P), or, if you have a manual transmission, even if you are in gear. This is because the NEUTRAL position on the transfer case overrides the transmission. You or someone else could be injured. If you are going to leave your vehicle, set the parking brake and shift the transmission to PARK (P), or, put the manual transmission in FIRST (1). But do not shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL. Leave the transfer case in the Four-Wheel High, Four-Wheel-High Lock, or Four-Wheel-Low Lock position.


4-25


Driving Downhill When off-roading takes you downhill, you will want to consider a number of things: (cid:129) How steep is the downhill? Will I be able to maintain


vehicle control?


(cid:129) What is the surface like? Smooth? Rough?


Slippery? Hard-packed dirt? Gravel?


(cid:129) Are there hidden surface obstacles? Ruts? Logs?


Boulders?


(cid:129) What is at the bottom of the hill? Is there a hidden


creek bank or even a river bottom with large rocks?


If you decide you can go down a hill safely, then try to keep your vehicle headed straight down, and use a low gear. This way, engine drag can help your brakes and they will not have to do all the work. Descend slowly, keeping your vehicle under control at all times.


{CAUTION:


Heavy braking when going down a hill can cause your brakes to overheat and fade. This could cause loss of control and a serious accident. Apply the brakes lightly when descending a hill and use a low gear to keep vehicle speed under control.


4-26


There some things not to do when driving down a hill. These are important because, if you ignore them, you could lose control and have a serious accident: (cid:129) When driving downhill, avoid turns that take


you across the incline of the hill. A hill that is not too steep to drive down may be too steep to drive across. You could roll over if you do not drive straight down.


(cid:129) Never go downhill with the transmission in


NEUTRAL (N). This is called “free-wheeling.” Your brakes will have to do all the work and could overheat and fade.


Your vehicle is much more likely to stall when going uphill. But if it happens when going downhill: 1. Stop your vehicle by applying the regular brakes.


Apply the parking brake.


2. If you have an automatic transmission, shift to


PARK (P). While still braking, restart the engine.


3. Shift back to a low gear, release the parking brake,


and drive straight down.


4. If the engine will not start, get out and get help.


Driving Across an Incline Sooner or later, an off-road trail will probably go across the incline of a hill. If this happens, you have to decide whether to try to drive across the incline. Here are some things to consider:


{CAUTION:


Driving across an incline that is too steep will make your vehicle roll over. You could be seriously injured or killed. If you have any doubt about the steepness of the incline, do not drive across it. Find another route instead.


(cid:129) A hill that can be driven straight up or down may


be too steep to drive across. When you go straight up or down a hill, the length of the wheel base — the distance from the front wheels to the rear wheels — reduces the likelihood the vehicle will tumble end over end. But when you drive across an incline, the much more narrow track width — the distance between the left and right wheels — may not prevent the vehicle from tilting and rolling over. Also, driving across an incline puts more weight on the downhill wheels. This could cause a downhill slide or a rollover.


4-27


Stalling on an Incline


{CAUTION:


Getting out on the downhill (low) side of a vehicle stopped across an incline is dangerous. If the vehicle rolls over, you could be crushed or killed. Always get out on the uphill (high) side of the vehicle and stay well clear of the rollover path.


(cid:129) Surface conditions can be a problem when you drive across a hill. Loose gravel, muddy spots, or even wet grass can cause your tires to slip sideways, downhill. If the vehicle slips sideways, it can hit something that will trip it — a rock, a rut, etc. — and roll over.


(cid:129) Hidden obstacles can make the steepness of the


incline even worse. If you drive across a rock with the uphill wheels, or if the downhill wheels drop into a rut or depression, your vehicle can tilt even more.


For reasons like these, you need to decide carefully whether to try to drive across an incline. Just because the trail goes across the incline does not mean you have to drive it. The last vehicle to try it might have rolled over. When driving across an incline that is not too steep, the vehicle can hit some loose gravel and start to slide downhill. If you feel your vehicle starting to slide sideways, turn downhill. This should help straighten out the vehicle and prevent the side slipping. However, a much better way to prevent this is to get out and “walk the course” so you know what the surface is like before you drive it.


4-28


Driving in Mud, Sand, Snow, or Ice When you drive in mud, snow, or sand, your wheels will not get good traction. You cannot accelerate as quickly, turning is more difficult, and you will need longer braking distances. It is best to use a low gear when you are in mud — the deeper the mud, the lower the gear. In really deep mud, the idea is to keep your vehicle moving so you do not get stuck. Be careful to keep mud from building up and washing onto the engine cooling system. When you drive on sand, you will sense a change in wheel traction. But it will depend upon how loosely packed the sand is. On loosely packed sand, such as on beaches or sand dunes, your tires will tend to sink into the sand. This has an effect on steering, accelerating, and braking. Drive at a reduced speed and avoid sharp turns or abrupt maneuvers.


4-29


If your vehicle stalls when you are crossing an incline, be sure you, and any passengers, get out on the uphill side, even if the door there is harder to open. If you get out on the downhill side and the vehicle starts to roll over, you will be right in its path. If you have to walk down the slope, stay out of the path the vehicle will take if it does roll over.


Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire traction. On these surfaces, it is very easy to lose control. On wet ice, for example, the traction is so poor that you will have difficulty accelerating. And if you do get moving, poor steering and difficult braking can cause you to slide out of control.


Driving in Water


{CAUTION:


{CAUTION:


Driving on frozen lakes, ponds, or rivers can be dangerous. Underwater springs, currents under the ice, or sudden thaws can weaken the ice. Your vehicle could fall through the ice and you and your passengers could drown. Drive your vehicle on safe surfaces only.


Driving through rushing water can be dangerous. Deep water can sweep your vehicle downstream and you and your passengers could drown. If it is only shallow water, it can still wash away the ground from under your tires, and you could lose traction and roll the vehicle over. Do not drive through rushing water.


Heavy rain can mean flash flooding, and flood waters demand extreme caution. Find out how deep the water is before you drive through it. If it is deep enough to cover your wheel hubs, axles, or exhaust pipe, do not try it — you probably will not get through. Also, water that deep can damage your axle and other vehicle parts. Your vehicle is capable of depths up to 20 inches (50 cm). Know how to judge whether the water is deeper than this before proceeding into it.


4-30


If the water is not too deep, drive slowly through it. At faster speeds, water splashes on your ignition system and your vehicle can stall. Stalling can also occur if you get your tailpipe under water. And, as long as your tailpipe is under water, you will never be able to start your engine. When you go through water, remember that when your brakes get wet, it may take you longer to stop. See Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads on page 4-33 for more information on driving through water. After Off-Road Driving Remove any brush or debris that has collected on the underbody, chassis, or under the hood. These accumulations can be a fire hazard. After operation in mud or sand, have the brake linings cleaned and checked. These substances can cause glazing and uneven braking. Check the engine and oil coolers and underbody skid shields for mud accumulation. Thoroughly and carefully clean these devices to allow proper cooling. Check the body


structure, steering, suspension, underbody shields, wheels, tires, and exhaust system for damage. Also, check the fuel lines and cooling system for any leakage. Your vehicle will require more frequent service due to off-road use. See the Maintenance Schedule for additional information.


Assist Steps If your vehicle has removable side steps, remove the steps prior to off-roading to give your vehicle more ground clearance and to prevent damage to the vehicle from the side steps dragging and/or catching on obstacles. Notice: Do not drive off-road with the side steps attached to your vehicle. You can damage the side steps and/or your vehicle’s frame if they get caught or drag against an obstacle. This damage would not be covered by your vehicle’s warranty. Always remove the side steps prior to any off-road driving.


4-31


Driving at Night Night driving is more dangerous than day driving because some drivers are likely to be impaired — by alcohol or drugs, with night vision problems, or by fatigue. Night driving tips include: (cid:129) Drive defensively. (cid:129) Do not drink and drive. (cid:129) Reduce headlamp glare by adjusting the inside


rearview mirror.


(cid:129) Slow down and keep more space between you and


other vehicles because your headlamps can only light up so much road ahead.


(cid:129) Watch for animals. (cid:129) When tired, pull off the road. (cid:129) Do not wear sunglasses. (cid:129) Avoid staring directly into approaching headlamps. (cid:129) Keep the windshield and all glass on your vehicle


clean — inside and out.


(cid:129) Keep your eyes moving, especially during turns or


curves.


No one can see as well at night as in the daytime. But, as we get older, these differences increase. A 50-year-old driver might need at least twice as much light to see the same thing at night as a 20-year-old.


4-32


Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads Rain and wet roads can reduce vehicle traction and affect your ability to stop and accelerate. Always drive slower in these types of driving conditions and avoid driving through large puddles and deep-standing or flowing water.


{CAUTION:


Wet brakes can cause crashes. They might not work as well in a quick stop and could cause pulling to one side. You could lose control of the vehicle. After driving through a large puddle of water or a car/vehicle wash, lightly apply the brake pedal until the brakes work normally. Flowing or rushing water creates strong forces. Driving through flowing water could cause your vehicle to be carried away. If this happens, you and other vehicle occupants could drown. Do not ignore police warnings and be very cautious about trying to drive through flowing water.


Hydroplaning Hydroplaning is dangerous. Water can build up under your vehicle’s tires so they actually ride on the water. This can happen if the road is wet enough and you are going fast enough. When your vehicle is hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road. There is no hard and fast rule about hydroplaning. The best advice is to slow down when the road is wet. Other Rainy Weather Tips Besides slowing down, other wet weather driving tips include: (cid:129) Allow extra following distance. (cid:129) Pass with caution. (cid:129) Keep windshield wiping equipment in good shape. (cid:129) Keep the windshield washer fluid reservoir filled. (cid:129) Have good tires with proper tread depth. See Tires


on page 5-54.


4-33


Before Leaving on a Long Trip To prepare your vehicle for a long trip, consider having it serviced by your dealer/retailer before departing. Things to check on your own include: (cid:129) Windshield Washer Fluid: Reservoir full? Windows


clean — inside and outside?


(cid:129) Wiper Blades: In good shape?


Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: All levels checked? Lamps: Do they all work and are lenses clean? Tires: Are treads good? Are tires inflated to recommended pressure?


(cid:129) Weather and Maps: Safe to travel? Have up-to-date


maps?


Highway Hypnosis Always be alert and pay attention to your surroundings while driving. If you become tired or sleepy, find a safe place to park your vehicle and rest. Other driving tips include: (cid:129) Keep the vehicle well ventilated. (cid:129) Keep interior temperature cool. (cid:129) Keep your eyes moving — scan the road ahead


and to the sides.


(cid:129) Check the rearview mirror and vehicle instruments


often.


Hill and Mountain Roads Driving on steep hills or through mountains is different than driving on flat or rolling terrain. Tips for driving in these conditions include: (cid:129) Keep your vehicle serviced and in good shape. (cid:129) Check all fluid levels and brakes, tires, cooling


system, and transmission.


(cid:129) Going down steep or long hills, shift to a


lower gear.


4-34


(cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) {CAUTION:


If you do not shift down, the brakes could get so hot that they would not work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Shift down to let the engine assist the brakes on a steep downhill slope.


{CAUTION:


Coasting downhill in NEUTRAL (N) or with the ignition off is dangerous. The brakes will have to do all the work of slowing down and they could get so hot that they would not work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Always have the engine running and your vehicle in gear when you go downhill.


(cid:129) Stay in your own lane. Do not swing wide or cut


across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let you stay in your own lane.


Top of hills: Be alert — something could be in your lane (stalled car, accident).


(cid:129) Pay attention to special road signs (falling rocks


area, winding roads, long grades, passing or no-passing zones) and take appropriate action. See Off-Road Driving on page 4-12 for information about driving off-road.


Winter Driving Here are some tips for winter driving: (cid:129) Have your vehicle in good shape for winter. (cid:129) You might want to put winter emergency supplies in


your vehicle.


Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a supply of windshield washer fluid, a rag, some winter outer clothing, a small shovel, a flashlight, a red cloth, and a couple of reflective warning triangles. And, if you will be driving under severe conditions, include a small bag of sand, a piece of old carpet, or a couple of burlap bags to help provide traction. Be sure you properly secure these items in your vehicle. Also see Tires on page 5-54.


4-35


(cid:129) Driving on Snow or Ice Most of the time, those places where the tires meet the road probably have good traction. However, if there is snow or ice between the tires and the road, you can have a very slippery situation. You have a lot less traction, or grip, and need to be very careful.


What is the worst time for this? Wet ice. Very cold snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice can be even more trouble because it can offer the least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it is about freezing, 32°F (0°C), and freezing rain begins to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews can get there. Whatever the condition — smooth ice, packed, blowing, or loose snow — drive with caution. The Traction Control System (TCS) improves your ability to accelerate when driving on a slippery road. TCS improves your ability to accelerate. See If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand, Mud, Ice, or Snow on page 4-39. Even though you have TCS, slow down and adjust your driving to the road conditions. Under certain conditions, you might want to turn the TCS off, such as when driving through deep snow and loose gravel, to help maintain vehicle motion at lower speeds. See Traction Control System (TCS) on page 4-5 and StabiliTrak® System on page 4-7.


4-36


The Antilock Brake System (ABS) improves your vehicle’s stability when you make a hard stop on a slippery road. Even though you have ABS, begin stopping sooner than you would on dry pavement. See Antilock Brake System (ABS) on page 4-4. (cid:129) Allow greater following distance on any


slippery road.


(cid:129) Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine until you hit a spot that is covered with ice. On an otherwise clear road, ice patches can appear in shaded areas where the sun cannot reach, such as around clumps of trees, behind buildings, or under bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass can remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you are on it. Try not to brake while you are actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers.


If You Are Caught in a Blizzard If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a serious situation. You should probably stay with your vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near help and you can hike through the snow. Here are some things to do to summon help and keep yourself and your passengers safe:


Turn on the hazard warning flashers. Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police that you have been stopped by the snow.


(cid:129) Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around you. If you do not have blankets or extra clothing, make body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags, floor mats — anything you can wrap around yourself or tuck under your clothing to keep warm.


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(cid:129) (cid:129) {CAUTION:


Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you. You cannot see it or smell it, so you might not know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking the exhaust pipe. And check around again from time to time to be sure snow does not collect there. Open a window just a little on the side of the vehicle that is away from the wind. This will help keep CO out.


Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps the battery charged. You will need a well-charged battery to restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with the headlamps. Let the heater run for a while.


You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.


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Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again and repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or so until help comes.


If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand, Mud, Ice, or Snow Slowly and cautiously spin the wheels to free your vehicle when stuck in sand, mud, ice, or snow. See Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out on page 4-40. If your vehicle has a traction system, it can often help to free a stuck vehicle. Refer to your vehicle’s traction system in the Index. If the stuck condition is too severe for the traction system to free the vehicle, turn the traction system off and use the rocking method.


{CAUTION:


If you let your vehicle’s tires spin at high speed, they can explode, and you or others could be injured. The vehicle can overheat, causing an engine compartment fire or other damage. Spin the wheels as little as possible and avoid going above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.


For information about using tire chains on your vehicle, see Tire Chains on page 5-77.


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Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out First, turn the steering wheel left and right to clear the area around the front wheels. The traction control system activates when the system senses that the wheels are spinning. Turn off any traction or stability system. See Traction Control System (TCS) on page 4-5
and StabiliTrak® System on page 4-7. Then, with the wheels straight ahead, shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear, or with a manual transmission, between FIRST (1) or SECOND (2) and REVERSE (R), spinning the wheels as little as possible. To prevent transmission wear, wait until the wheels stop spinning before shifting gears. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear. By slowly spinning the wheels in the forward and reverse directions, you will cause a rocking motion that could free your vehicle. If that does not get your vehicle out after a few tries, it might need to be towed out. Or, you can use the recovery loops. If your vehicle does need to be towed out, see Towing Your Vehicle on page 4-48.


Recovery Loops


{CAUTION:


These loops, when used, are under a lot of force. Keep people away from the vicinity of the loops and any chains or cables during use. Always pull the vehicle straight out. Never pull on the loops at a sideways angle. The loops could break off and you or others could be injured from the chain or cable snapping back.


Notice: Never use the recovery loops to tow the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged and it would not be covered by warranty.


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Your vehicle has two recovery loops at the front of the vehicle and one at the rear of the vehicle.


Rear of Vehicle


You may need to use them if you are stuck off-road and need to be pulled to some place where you can continue driving.


Front of Vehicle


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Loading Your Vehicle It is very important to know how much weight your vehicle can carry. This weight is called the vehicle capacity weight and includes the weight of all occupants, cargo and all nonfactory-installed options. Two labels on your vehicle show how much weight it may properly carry, the Tire and Loading Information label and the Certification/Tire label.


{CAUTION:


Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle.


If your vehicle has a brush guard, never tow or apply any loads onto the brush guard.


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Tire and Loading Information Label


Label Example


A vehicle specific Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar). With the driver’s door open, you will find the label attached below the door latch post. The Tire and Loading Information label shows the number of occupant seating positions (A), and the maximum vehicle capacity weight (B) in kilograms and pounds.


The Tire and Loading Information label also shows the size of your vehicle’s original equipment tires (C) and the recommended cold tire inflation pressures (D). For more information on tires and inflation see Tires on page 5-54 and Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-62. There is also important information on the Certification/Tire label. It tells you the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) and the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for the front and rear axles. See “Certification/Tire Label” later in this section. Steps for Determining Correct Load Limit 1. Locate the statement “The combined weight of


occupants and cargo should never exceed XXX kg or XXX lbs” on your vehicle’s placard. 2. Determine the combined weight of the driver


and passengers that will be riding in your vehicle.


3. Subtract the combined weight of the driver and passengers from XXX kg or XXX lbs.


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4. The resulting figure equals the available


amount of cargo and luggage load capacity. For example, if the “XXX” amount equals 1400 lbs and there will be five 150 lb passengers in your vehicle, the amount of available cargo and luggage load capacity is 650 lbs (1400 − 750 (5 x 150) = 650 lbs). 5. Determine the combined weight of luggage


and cargo being loaded on the vehicle. That weight may not safely exceed the available cargo and luggage load capacity calculated in Step 4.


6. If your vehicle will be towing a trailer, the load


from your trailer will be transferred to your vehicle. Consult this manual to determine how this reduces the available cargo and luggage load capacity of your vehicle. See Towing a Trailer on page 4-50 for important information on towing a trailer, towing safety, and trailering tips.


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Example 1


Item


Description Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 1 = Subtract Occupant Weight 150 lbs (68 kg) x 2 = Available Cargo Weight =


Total


1,000 lbs (453 kg)


300 lbs (136 kg)


700 lbs (317 kg)


Example 2


Example 3


Item


Description Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 2 = Subtract Occupant Weight 150 lbs (68 kg) x 5 = Available Cargo Weight =


Total


Item


1,000 lbs (453 kg)


750 lbs (340 kg)


250 lbs (113 kg)


Description Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 3 = Subtract Occupant Weight 200 lbs (91 kg) x 5 = Available Cargo Weight =


Total


1,000 lbs (453 kg)


1,000 lbs (453 kg)


0 lbs (0 kg)


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The label shows the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel, cargo and trailer tongue weight, if pulling a trailer. The Certification/Tire label also tells you the maximum weights for the front and rear axles, called Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). To find out the actual loads on your front and rear axles, you need to go to a weigh station and weigh your vehicle. Your dealer can help you with this. Be sure to spread out your load equally on both sides of the centerline. Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle, or the GAWR for either the front or rear axle. If you do have a heavy load, you should spread it out. Similar appearing vehicles may have different GVWRs and capacity weights. Please note your vehicle’s Certification/Tire label or consult your dealer for additional details.


Refer to your vehicle’s Tire and Loading Information label for specific information about your vehicle’s capacity weight and seating positions. The combined weight of the driver, passengers, cargo and any accessories or equipment added to your vehicle after it left the factory should never exceed your vehicle’s capacity weight. Certification/Tire Label


Label Example


A vehicle specific Certification/Tire label is attached to the bottom section of the center pillar (B-pillar), on the driver’s side of the vehicle.


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{CAUTION:


{CAUTION:


Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle.


Using heavier suspension components to get added durability might not change your weight ratings. Ask your dealer to help you load your vehicle the right way. Notice: Overloading your vehicle may cause damage. Repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not overload your vehicle. If you put things inside your vehicle – like suitcases, tools, packages, or anything else – they will go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they will keep going.


Things you put inside your vehicle can strike and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or in a crash.


(cid:129) Put things in the cargo area of your


vehicle. Try to spread the weight evenly.


(cid:129) Never stack heavier things, like


suitcases, inside the vehicle so that some of them are above the tops of the seats.


(cid:129) Do not leave an unsecured child


restraint in your vehicle.


(cid:129) When you carry something inside the vehicle, secure it whenever you can.


(cid:129) Do not leave a seat folded down


unless you need to.


There is also important loading information for off-road driving in this manual. See “Loading Your Vehicle for Off-Road Driving” under Off-Road Driving on page 4-12.


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Towing


Towing Your Vehicle Consult your dealer/retailer or a professional towing service if you need to have your disabled vehicle towed. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-6. If you want to tow your vehicle behind another vehicle for recreational purposes (such as behind a motorhome), see “Recreational Vehicle Towing” following.


Recreational Vehicle Towing Recreational vehicle towing means towing your vehicle behind another vehicle – such as behind a motorhome. The two most common types of recreational vehicle towing are known as “dinghy towing” (towing your vehicle with all four wheels on the ground) and “dolly towing” (towing your vehicle with two wheels on the ground and two wheels up on a device known as a “dolly”).


With the proper preparation and equipment, many vehicles can be towed in these ways. See “Dinghy Towing” and “Dolly Towing,” following. Here are some important things to consider before you do recreational vehicle towing: (cid:129) What’s the towing capacity of the towing vehicle? Be sure you read the tow vehicle manufacturer’s recommendations.


(cid:129) How far will you tow? Some vehicles have


restrictions on how far and how long they can tow.


(cid:129) Do you have the proper towing equipment?


See your dealer/retailer or trailering professional for additional advice and equipment recommendations. Is your vehicle ready to be towed? Just as you would prepare your vehicle for a long trip, you’ll want to make sure your vehicle is prepared to be towed. See Before Leaving on a Long Trip on page 4-34.


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(cid:129) 6. Put the transmission in PARK (P) for an


automatic transmission or in FIRST (1) for a manual transmission.


7. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle


being towed is firmly attached to the towing vehicle.


8. Turn the ignition off. After towing, see “Shifting Out of NEUTRAL” under Full-Time Four-Wheel Drive on page 2-27. Dolly Towing Notice: Dolly towing your vehicle will damage drivetrain components. Do not dolly tow your vehicle. Your vehicle cannot be dolly towed. If you must tow your vehicle behind another, use the dinghy towing procedure listed previously.


Dinghy Towing Use the following procedure to tow your vehicle: 1. Shift the transmission to NEUTRAL (N). 2. Turn the engine off, but leave the ignition in ON. 3. Firmly set the parking brake. 4. Securely attach the vehicle being towed to the tow


vehicle.


{CAUTION:


Shifting a full-time four-wheel-drive vehicle’s transfer case into NEUTRAL can cause your vehicle to roll even if the automatic transmission is in PARK (P) or the manual transmission is in any gear. You or others could be injured. Make sure the parking brake is firmly set before you shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL.


5. Shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL (N). See Full-Time Four-Wheel Drive on page 2-27 for the proper procedure to select the NEUTRAL position for your vehicle.


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Towing a Trailer


{CAUTION:


If you do not use the correct equipment and drive properly, you can lose control when you pull a trailer. For example, if the trailer is too heavy, the brakes may not work well — or even at all. You and your passengers could be seriously injured. You may also damage your vehicle; the resulting repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Pull a trailer only if you have followed all the steps in this section. Ask your dealer/retailer for advice and information about towing a trailer with your vehicle.


Notice: Pulling a trailer improperly can damage your vehicle and result in costly repairs not covered by your warranty. To pull a trailer correctly, follow the advice in this part, and see your dealer for important information about towing a trailer with your vehicle. To identify the trailering capacity of your vehicle, you should read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this section. Trailering is different than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, acceleration, braking, durability and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly. That’s the reason for this part. In it are many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before you pull a trailer.


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If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer If you do, here are some important points:

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