2004 Hummer H2 Owners Manual

Download PDF Manual
is like before you drive it.

(cid:127) Surface conditions can be a problem when you drive across a hill. Loose gravel, muddy spots, or even wet grass can cause your tires to slip sideways, downhill. If the vehicle slips sideways, it can hit something that will trip it (a rock, a rut, etc.) and roll over.

(cid:127) Hidden obstacles can make the steepness of the

incline even worse. If you drive across a rock with the uphill wheels, or if the downhill wheels drop into a rut or depression, your vehicle can tilt even more.

For reasons like these, you need to decide carefully whether to try to drive across an incline. Just because the trail goes across the incline does not mean you have to drive it. The last vehicle to try it might have rolled over.

{CAUTION:

Driving across an incline that is too steep will make your vehicle roll over. You could be seriously injured or killed. If you have any doubt about the steepness of the incline, do not drive across it. Find another route instead.

4-37

Stalling on an Incline If your vehicle stalls when you are crossing an incline, be sure you (and your passengers) get out on the uphill side, even if the door there is harder to open. If you get out on the downhill side and the vehicle starts to roll over, you will be right in its path. If you have to walk down the slope, stay out of the path the vehicle will take if it does roll over.

{CAUTION:

Getting out on the downhill (low) side of a vehicle stopped across an incline is dangerous. If the vehicle rolls over, you could be crushed or killed. Always get out on the uphill (high) side of the vehicle and stay well clear of the rollover path.

4-38

Driving in Mud, Sand, Snow or Ice When you drive in mud, snow or sand, your wheels will not get good traction. You can not accelerate as quickly, turning is more difficult, and you will need longer braking distances. It is best to use a low gear when you are in mud — the deeper the mud, the lower the gear. In really deep mud, the idea is to keep your vehicle moving so you do not get stuck. Be careful to keep mud from building up and washing onto the engine cooling system. When you drive on sand, you will sense a change in wheel traction. But it will depend upon how loosely packed the sand is. On loosely packed sand (as on beaches or sand dunes) your tires will tend to sink into the sand. This has an effect on steering, accelerating and braking. Drive at a reduced speed and avoid sharp turns or abrupt maneuvers.

Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire traction. On these surfaces, it is very easy to lose control. On wet ice, for example, the traction is so poor that you will have difficulty accelerating. And if you do get moving, poor steering and difficult braking can cause you to slide out of control.

{CAUTION:

Driving on frozen lakes, ponds or rivers can be dangerous. Underwater springs, currents under the ice, or sudden thaws can weaken the ice. Your vehicle could fall through the ice and you and your passengers could drown. Drive your vehicle on safe surfaces only.

4-39

Driving in Water Heavy rain can mean ﬂash ﬂooding, and ﬂood waters demand extreme caution. Find out how deep the water is before you drive through it. If it is deep enough to cover your wheel hubs, axles or exhaust pipe, do not try it — you probably will not get through. Also, water that deep can damage your axle and other vehicle parts. Your vehicle is capable of depths up to 20 inches. Know how to judge whether the water is deeper than this before proceeding into it. If the water is not too deep, drive slowly through it. At faster speeds, water splashes on your ignition system and your vehicle can stall. Stalling can also occur if you get your tailpipe under water. And, as long as your tailpipe is under water, you will never be able to start your engine. When you go through water, remember that when your brakes get wet, it may take you longer to stop.

{CAUTION:

Driving through rushing water can be dangerous. Deep water can sweep your vehicle downstream and you and your passengers could drown. If it is only shallow water, it can still wash away the ground from under your tires, and you could lose traction and roll the vehicle over. Do not drive through rushing water.

See Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads on page 4-43 for more information on driving through water.

4-40

Driving at Night

After Off-Road Driving Remove any brush or debris that has collected on the underbody, chassis or under the hood. These accumulations can be a ﬁre hazard. After operation in mud or sand, have the brake linings cleaned and checked. These substances can cause glazing and uneven braking. Check the engine and oil coolers for mud accumulation. Thoroughly and carefully clean these devices to allow proper cooling. Check the body structure, steering, suspension, wheels, tires and exhaust system for damage. Also, check the fuel lines and cooling system for any leakage. Your vehicle will require more frequent service due to off-road use. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule for additional information.

Night driving is more dangerous than day driving. One reason is that some drivers are likely to be impaired — by alcohol or drugs, with night vision problems, or by fatigue.

4-41

You can be temporarily blinded by approaching headlamps. It can take a second or two, or even several seconds, for your eyes to re-adjust to the dark. When you are faced with severe glare (as from a driver who does not lower the high beams, or a vehicle with misaimed headlamps), slow down a little. Avoid staring directly into the approaching headlamps. Keep your windshield and all the glass on your vehicle clean — inside and out. Glare at night is made much worse by dirt on the glass. Even the inside of the glass can build up a ﬁlm caused by dust. Dirty glass makes lights dazzle and ﬂash more than clean glass would, making the pupils of your eyes contract repeatedly. Remember that your headlamps light up far less of a roadway when you are in a turn or curve. Keep your eyes moving; that way, it is easier to pick out dimly lighted objects. Just as your headlamps should be checked regularly for proper aim, so should your eyes be examined regularly. Some drivers suffer from night blindness — the inability to see in dim light — and are not even aware of it.

Here are some tips on night driving. (cid:127) Drive defensively. (cid:127) Do not drink and drive. (cid:127) Adjust your inside rearview mirror to reduce the

glare from headlamps behind you.

(cid:127) Since you can not see as well, you may need to

slow down and keep more space between you and other vehicles.

(cid:127) Slow down, especially on higher speed roads. Your headlamps can light up only so much road ahead. In remote areas, watch for animals. If you are tired, pull off the road in a safe place and rest.

No one can see as well at night as in the daytime. But as we get older these differences increase. A 50-year-old driver may require at least twice as much light to see the same thing at night as a 20-year-old. What you do in the daytime can also affect your night vision. For example, if you spend the day in bright sunshine you are wise to wear sunglasses. Your eyes will have less trouble adjusting to night. But if you are driving, do not wear sunglasses at night. They may cut down on glare from headlamps, but they also make a lot of things invisible.

4-42

(cid:127) (cid:127) Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads

Rain and wet roads can mean driving trouble. On a wet road, you can not stop, accelerate or turn as well because your tire-to-road traction is not as good as on dry roads.

And, if your tires do not have much tread left, you will get even less traction. It is always wise to go slower and be cautious if rain starts to fall while you are driving. The surface may get wet suddenly when your reﬂexes are tuned for driving on dry pavement. The heavier the rain, the harder it is to see. Even if your windshield wiper blades are in good shape, a heavy rain can make it harder to see road signs and traffic signals, pavement markings, the edge of the road and even people walking. It is wise to keep your wiping equipment in good shape and keep your windshield washer tank ﬁlled with washer ﬂuid. Replace your windshield wiper inserts when they show signs of streaking or missing areas on the windshield, or when strips of rubber start to separate from the inserts.

4-43

{CAUTION:

Wet brakes can cause accidents. They will not work as well in a quick stop and may cause pulling to one side. You could lose control of the vehicle. After driving through a large puddle of water or a car wash, apply your brake pedal lightly until your brakes work normally.

Driving too fast through large water puddles or even going through some car washes can cause problems, too. The water may affect your brakes. Try to avoid puddles. But if you can not, try to slow down before you hit them.

4-44

Hydroplaning Hydroplaning is dangerous. So much water can build up under your tires that they can actually ride on the water. This can happen if the road is wet enough and you are going fast enough. When your vehicle is hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road. Hydroplaning does not happen often. But it can if your tires do not have much tread or if the pressure in one or more is low. It can happen if a lot of water is standing on the road. If you can see reﬂections from trees, telephone poles or other vehicles, and raindrops “dimple” the water’s surface, there could be hydroplaning. Hydroplaning usually happens at higher speeds. There just is not a hard and fast rule about hydroplaning. The best advice is to slow down when it is raining. Driving Through Deep Standing Water Notice: If you drive too quickly through deep puddles or standing water, water can come in through your engine’s air intake and badly damage your engine. Never drive through water that is slightly lower than the underbody of your vehicle. If you can not avoid deep puddles or standing water, drive through them very slowly.

Driving Through Flowing Water

{CAUTION:

Flowing or rushing water creates strong forces. If you try to drive through ﬂowing water, as you might at a low water crossing, your vehicle can be carried away. As little as six inches of ﬂowing water can carry away a smaller vehicle. If this happens, you and other vehicle occupants could drown. Do not ignore police warning signs, and otherwise be very cautious about trying to drive through ﬂowing water.

Some Other Rainy Weather Tips (cid:127) Besides slowing down, allow some extra following

distance. And be especially careful when you pass another vehicle. Allow yourself more clear room ahead, and be prepared to have your view restricted by road spray.

(cid:127) Have good tires with proper tread depth. See Tires

on page 5-60.

4-45

City Driving

Here are ways to increase your safety in city driving: (cid:127) Know the best way to get to where you are going. Get a city map and plan your trip into an unknown part of the city just as you would for a cross-country trip. Try to use the freeways that rim and crisscross most large cities. You will save time and energy. See Freeway Driving on page 4-47. Treat a green light as a warning signal. A traffic light is there because the corner is busy enough to need it. When a light turns green, and just before you start to move, check both ways for vehicles that have not cleared the intersection or may be running the red light.

One of the biggest problems with city streets is the amount of traffic on them. You will want to watch out for what the other drivers are doing and pay attention to traffic signals.

4-46

(cid:127) (cid:127) Freeway Driving

Mile for mile, freeways (also called thruways, parkways, expressways, turnpikes or superhighways) are the safest of all roads. But they have their own special rules.

The most important advice on freeway driving is: Keep up with traffic and keep to the right. Drive at the same speed most of the other drivers are driving. Too-fast or too-slow driving breaks a smooth traffic ﬂow. Treat the left lane on a freeway as a passing lane. At the entrance, there is usually a ramp that leads to the freeway. If you have a clear view of the freeway as you drive along the entrance ramp, you should begin to check traffic. Try to determine where you expect to blend with the ﬂow. Try to merge into the gap at close to the prevailing speed. Switch on your turn signal, check your mirrors and glance over your shoulder as often as necessary. Try to blend smoothly with the traffic ﬂow. Once you are on the freeway, adjust your speed to the posted limit or to the prevailing rate if it is slower. Stay in the right lane unless you want to pass. Before changing lanes, check your mirrors. Then use your turn signal. Just before you leave the lane, glance quickly over your shoulder to make sure there is not another vehicle in your “blind” spot.

4-47

Once you are moving on the freeway, make certain you allow a reasonable following distance. Expect to move slightly slower at night. When you want to leave the freeway, move to the proper lane well in advance. If you miss your exit, do not, under any circumstances, stop and back up. Drive on to the next exit. The exit ramp can be curved, sometimes quite sharply. The exit speed is usually posted. Reduce your speed according to your speedometer, not to your sense of motion. After driving for any distance at higher speeds, you may tend to think you are going slower than you actually are.

Before Leaving on a Long Trip Make sure you are ready. Try to be well rested. If you must start when you are not fresh — such as after a day’s work — do not plan to make too many miles that ﬁrst part of the journey. Wear comfortable clothing and shoes you can easily drive in. Is your vehicle ready for a long trip? If you keep it serviced and maintained, it is ready to go. If it needs service, have it done before starting out. Of course, you will ﬁnd experienced and able service experts in GM dealerships all across North America. They will be ready and willing to help if you need it.

4-48

Here are some things you can check before a trip: (cid:127) Windshield Washer Fluid: Is the reservoir full? Are

all windows clean inside and outside?

(cid:127) Wiper Blades: Are they in good shape?

Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: Have you checked all levels? Lamps: Are they all working? Are the lenses clean? Tires: They are vitally important to a safe, trouble-free trip. Is the tread good enough for long-distance driving? Are the tires all inﬂated to the recommended pressure?

(cid:127) Weather Forecasts: What is the weather outlook

along your route? Should you delay your trip a short time to avoid a major storm system?

(cid:127) Maps: Do you have up-to-date maps?

Highway Hypnosis Is there actually such a condition as “highway hypnosis”? Or is it just plain falling asleep at the wheel? Call it highway hypnosis, lack of awareness, or whatever. There is something about an easy stretch of road with the same scenery, along with the hum of the tires on the road, the drone of the engine, and the rush of the wind against the vehicle that can make you sleepy. Do not let it happen to you! If it does, your vehicle can leave the road in less than a second, and you could crash and be injured. What can you do about highway hypnosis? First, be aware that it can happen. Then here are some tips: (cid:127) Make sure your vehicle is well ventilated, with a

comfortably cool interior.

(cid:127) Keep your eyes moving. Scan the road ahead and

to the sides. Check your mirrors and your instruments frequently. If you get sleepy, pull off the road into a rest, service or parking area and take a nap, get some exercise, or both. For safety, treat drowsiness on the highway as an emergency.

4-49

(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) Keep your vehicle in good shape. Check all ﬂuid levels and also the brakes, tires, cooling system and transmission. These parts can work hard on mountain roads.

(cid:127) Know how to go down hills. The most important thing to know is this: let your engine do some of the slowing down. Shift to a lower gear when you go down a steep or long hill.

{CAUTION:

If you do not shift down, your brakes could get so hot that they would not work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Shift down to let your engine assist your brakes on a steep downhill slope.

Hill and Mountain Roads

Driving on steep hills or mountains is different from driving in ﬂat or rolling terrain. If you drive regularly in steep country, or if you are planning to visit there, here are some tips that can make your trips safer and more enjoyable. See Off-Road Driving on page 4-17 for information about driving off-road.

4-50

{CAUTION:

Coasting downhill in NEUTRAL (N) or with the ignition off is dangerous. Your brakes will have to do all the work of slowing down. They could get so hot that they would not work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Always have your engine running and your vehicle in gear when you go downhill.

(cid:127) Know how to go uphill. You may want to shift down

to a lower gear. The lower gears help cool your engine and transmission, and you can climb the hill better.

(cid:127) Stay in your own lane when driving on two-lane roads in hills or mountains. Do not swing wide or cut across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let you stay in your own lane.

(cid:127) As you go over the top of a hill, be alert. There could be something in your lane, like a stalled car or an accident.

(cid:127) You may see highway signs on mountains that

warn of special problems. Examples are long grades, passing or no-passing zones, a falling rocks area or winding roads. Be alert to these and take appropriate action.

4-51

Winter Driving

Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a supply of windshield washer ﬂuid, a rag, some winter outer clothing, a small shovel, a ﬂashlight, a red cloth and a couple of reﬂective warning triangles. And, if you will be driving under severe conditions, include a small bag of sand, a piece of old carpet or a couple of burlap bags to help provide traction. Be sure you properly secure these items in your vehicle. Driving on Snow or Ice Most of the time, those places where your tires meet the road probably have good traction. However, if there is snow or ice between your tires and the road, you can have a very slippery situation. You will have a lot less traction or “grip” and will need to be very careful.

Here are some tips for winter driving: (cid:127) Have your vehicle in good shape for winter. (cid:127) You may want to put winter emergency supplies in

your vehicle.

Also see Tires on page 5-60.

4-52

Your Traction Control System will help you to maintain control of the vehicle when you accelerate on a slippery road. If you are driving in deep snow, turn your traction system to the TC2 mode. It will improve your ability to accelerate. See If You Are Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow on page 4-56. Even though your vehicle has a traction system, you will want to slow down and adjust your driving to the road conditions. See Traction Control System (TCS) on page 4-9. Your anti-lock brakes improve your vehicle’s stability when you make a hard stop on a slippery road. Even though you have an anti-lock braking system, you will want to begin stopping sooner than you would on dry pavement. See Braking on page 4-6. (cid:127) Allow greater following distance on any

slippery road.

(cid:127) Watch for slippery spots. The road might be ﬁne

until you hit a spot that is covered with ice. On an otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in shaded areas where the sun can not reach: around clumps of trees, behind buildings or under bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass may remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you are on it. Try not to brake while you’re actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers.

4-53

What is the worst time for this? “Wet ice.” Very cold snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice can be even more trouble because it may offer the least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it is about freezing (32°F; 0°C) and freezing rain begins to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews can get there. Whatever the condition — smooth ice, packed, blowing or loose snow — drive with caution.

If You Are Caught in a Blizzard

(cid:127) Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around you.

If you have no blankets or extra clothing, make body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags, ﬂoor mats — anything you can wrap around yourself or tuck under your clothing to keep warm.

If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a serious situation. You should probably stay with your vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near help and you can hike through the snow. Here are some things to do to summon help and keep yourself and your passengers safe:

Turn on your hazard ﬂashers. Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police that you have been stopped by the snow.

4-54

You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.

(cid:127) (cid:127) {CAUTION:

Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you. You can not see it or smell it, so you might not know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking your exhaust pipe. And check around again from time to time to be sure snow does not collect there. Open a window just a little on the side of the vehicle that is away from the wind. This will help keep CO out.

Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps the battery charged. You will need a well-charged battery to restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with your headlamps. Let the heater run for a while. Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again and repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or so until help comes.

4-55

Rocking Your Vehicle To Get It Out First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will clear the area around your front wheels. Your vehicle has a Traction Control System that will activate when the system senses that the wheels are spinning. See Traction Control System (TCS) on page 4-9 for more information. Then, with the wheels straight ahead, shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear. By slowly spinning your wheels in the forward and reverse directions, you will cause a rocking motion that may free your vehicle. If that does not get you out after a few tries, you may need to be towed out. Or, you can use your recovery loops. If you do need to be towed out, see Towing Your Vehicle on page 4-65.

If You Are Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you will need to spin the wheels, but you do not want to spin your wheels too fast. The method known as “rocking” can help you get out when you are stuck, but you must use caution.

{CAUTION:

If you let your tires spin at high speed, they can explode, and you or others could be injured. And, the transmission or other parts of the vehicle can overheat. That could cause an engine compartment ﬁre or other damage. When you are stuck, spin the wheels as little as possible. Do not spin the wheels above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.

Notice: Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting your transmission back and forth, you can destroy your transmission. For more information about using tire chains on your vehicle, see Tire Chains on page 5-75.

4-56

Using the Recovery Loops

Rear of Vehicle

Front of Vehicle

Your vehicle may be equipped with recovery loops at the front and rear of your vehicle. You may need to use them if you are stuck off-road and need to be pulled to some place where you can continue driving.

4-57

{CAUTION:

These loops, when used, are under a lot of force. Keep people away from the vicinity of the loops and any chains or cables during use. Always pull the vehicle straight out. Never pull on the loops at a sideways angle. The loops could break off and you or others could be injured from the chain or cable snapping back.

Notice: Never use the recovery loops to tow the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged and it would not be covered by warranty.

4-58

First Aid Kit and Tool Kit

Your vehicle may have a ﬁrst aid kit and/or a tool kit located in the storage bin behind the spare tire. They are held in place with a hook and loop fastener strap.

If your vehicle has the tool kit, the kit includes a ﬂashlight, a tire pressure gage and a multi-purpose tool set.

4-59

Front Receiver

The tire pressure gage has a reset button in the gage stem. After taking a pressure reading, press the button to reset the gage to zero.

Your vehicle is equipped with a front receiver. You can use the receiver with a power winch platform (described later in this section), receiver extension or with other accessories. Never use the front receiver to tow a trailer. You can use the front receiver to tow your vehicle behind another. See Recreational Vehicle Towing on page 4-65.

4-60

To use the front receiver with the receiver extension, do the following:

Receiver Extension (If Equipped) Use the receiver extension with the front receiver and various light-duty accessories such as bike racks. Notice: Do not attach accessories or cargo that weigh more than 240 lbs. (108 kg) to the receiver extension. You could damage the receiver extension and/or your vehicle’s frame components. The receiver extension was not intended for heavy-duty use, such as trailer towing, winching or vehicle recovery.

1. Locate the receiver extension (A) in the rear of the

vehicle where it is attached to the spare tire mounting plate.

2. Loosen the wing nuts (B) holding the extension to

the spare tire plate and remove it.

3. The extension attaches to the front receiver exactly

as the power winch platform does. See “Power Winch Platform” following in this section.

4. Attach the accessory you will be using to the

receiver extension.

4-61

Power Winch Platform (If Equipped) You can use the power winch platform with an aftermarket winch. Connect the winch to the platform and wiring to the vehicle following the winch manufacturer’s guidelines. 1. Slide the winch platform into the front receiver of

your vehicle. To secure it, follow the next step. You will be using the locking pin (if equipped) stored with the jack/tool kit. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-79 for more information on location.

If you look under the receiver, you will see the locking portion (clip) of the pin coming through the bottom hole in the receiver.

3. Turn the clip so that it is

perpendicular to the pin. Pin is shown off the vehicle for clarity.

2. Slide the pin down through the hole in the front

bumper and into the receiver.

4-62

4. Push the clip so it

locks in place. Pin is shown off the vehicle for clarity.

To remove the winch platform, you must ﬁrst unlock the clip so you can pull out the pin. To unlock the clip, squeeze the clip and turn it so it is in line with the rest of the pin. Remove the pin and slide the winch platform out from the receiver. Notice: Do not use the winch platform to winch at a tension of more than 9,000 lbs. (4 082 kg). This would damage your vehicle’s frame. This damage would not be covered by your vehicle’s warranty.

5. With the clip locked and the pin secure, your setup should look like this if you look under the receiver. The pin is now secure and you will be able to use the winch.

4-63

If you are using a winch to pull out your own vehicle, follow the winch manufacturer’s guidelines for self recovery and observe the following to prevent damage to your vehicle: (cid:127) Do not self recover your vehicle by wrapping the winch cable around an object (such as a pulley block or tree) and attaching it back to your vehicle’s recovery loops.

(cid:127) Always attach the winch cable directly to a solid anchor directly in front of your vehicle to achieve a straight line pull.

If you are using a winch to pull out another vehicle, follow the winch manufacturer’s guidelines and observe the following to prevent damage to your vehicle:

If possible, have your vehicle anchored from the opposite side of the winch to a solid, immovable object. If winching from the front, use both of the rear recovery loops. If winching from the rear, use both of the front recovery loops.

(cid:127) Put your transmission in NEUTRAL (N). (cid:127) Use your regular brakes to hold your vehicle in place and block the wheels to keep the vehicle from moving.

Notice: Using a power winch with the transmission in gear to pull out another vehicle may damage the transmission. When operating a power winch, always leave the transmission in NEUTRAL (N). Notice: Driving your vehicle through an automatic car wash with the winch installed, can cause damage to your vehicle and the car wash. Always remove the winch from your vehicle before using an automatic car wash. See Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle on page 5-95 for more information.

4-64

(cid:127) Here are some important things to consider before you do recreational vehicle towing: (cid:127) What’s the towing capacity of the towing vehicle? Be sure you read the tow vehicle manufacturer’s recommendations.

(cid:127) How far will you tow? Some vehicles have

restrictions on how far and how long they can tow.

(cid:127) Do you have the proper towing equipment? See your dealer or trailering professional for additional advice and equipment recommendations. Is your vehicle ready to be towed? Just as you would prepare your vehicle for a long trip, you’ll want to make sure your vehicle is prepared to be towed. See Before Leaving on a Long Trip on page 4-48.

Towing Towing Your Vehicle Consult your dealer or a professional towing service if you need to have your disabled vehicle towed. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-5. If you want to tow your vehicle behind another vehicle for recreational purposes (such as behind a motorhome), see “Recreational Vehicle Towing” following.

Recreational Vehicle Towing Recreational vehicle towing means towing your vehicle behind another vehicle – such as behind a motorhome. The two most common types of recreational vehicle towing are known as “dinghy towing” (towing your vehicle with all four wheels on the ground) and “dolly towing” (towing your vehicle with two wheels on the ground and two wheels up on a device known as a “dolly”). With the proper preparation and equipment, many vehicles can be towed in these ways. See “Dinghy Towing” and “Dolly Towing,” following.

4-65

(cid:127) Dinghy Towing Use the following procedure to tow your vehicle: 1. Shift the transmission to PARK (P). 2. Turn the engine off, but leave the ignition on. 3. Firmly set the parking brake. 4. Securely attach the vehicle being towed to the

tow vehicle.

5. Shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL (N). See All-Wheel Drive on page 2-25 for the proper procedure to select the NEUTRAL position for your vehicle.

6. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle

being towed is ﬁrmly attached to the towing vehicle. You can use your vehicle’s front mounted receiver with the proper accessories to tow it. See “Front Mounted Receiver” under If You Are Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow on page 4-56.

7. Turn the engine off and leave the steering column

unlocked.

{CAUTION:

Shifting an all-wheel-drive vehicle’s transfer case into NEUTRAL can cause your vehicle to roll even if the transmission is in Park (P). You or others could be injured. Make sure the parking brake is ﬁrmly set before you shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL.

Dolly Towing Your vehicle can not be dolly towed. If you must tow your vehicle behind another, use the dinghy towing procedure listed previously. Notice: Dolly towing your vehicle will damage drivetrain components. Do not dolly tow your vehicle.

4-66

Tire and Loading Information Label

Loading Your Vehicle It is very important to know how much weight your vehicle can carry. This weight is called the vehicle capacity weight and includes the weight of all occupants, cargo and all nonfactory-installed options. Two labels on your vehicle show how much weight it may properly carry, the Tire and Loading Information label and the Certiﬁcation/Tire label.

{CAUTION:

Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the GVWR, or either the maximum front or rear GAWR. If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle.

A. Vehicle Capacity Weight The Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the center pillar, near the driver’s door latch. Vehicles without a center pillar will have the Tire and Loading Information label attached to the driver’s door edge. This label lists the number of people that can be in your vehicle and the total weight it can carry. This weight is called the vehicle capacity weight.

4-67

The Tire and Loading Information label also tells you the size and recommended inﬂation pressure for the original equipment tires on your vehicle. For more information on tires and inﬂation see Tires on page 5-60
and Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-68. If your vehicle does not have the Tire and Loading Information label, the Certiﬁcation/Tire label shows the tire size and recommended inﬂation pressures needed to obtain the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) and the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for the front and rear axles. See “Certiﬁcation/Tire Label” later in this section. Steps for Determining Correct Load Limit 1. Locate the statement “The combined weight of occupants and cargo should never exceed XXX pounds” on your vehicle placard.

2. Determine the combined weight of the driver and

passengers that will be riding in your vehicle.

3. Subtract the combined weight of the driver and

passengers from XXX kilograms or XXX pounds.

4. The resulting ﬁgure equals the available amount of

cargo and luggage load capacity. For example, if the “XXX” amount equals 1400 lbs. and there will be ﬁve 150 lb. passengers in your vehicle, the amount of available cargo and luggage load capacity is 650 lbs. (1400 − 750
(5 x 150) = 650 lbs.).

5. Determine the combined weight of luggage and cargo being loaded on the vehicle. That weight may not safely exceed the available cargo and luggage load capacity calculated in Step 4.

6. If your vehicle will be towing a trailer, the load from

your trailer will be transferred to your vehicle. Consult this manual to determine how this reduces the available cargo and luggage load capacity of your vehicle.

See Towing a Trailer on page 4-75 for important information on towing a trailer, towing safety rules and trailering tips.

4-68

Example 1

Loading Your Vehicle

Item

Description

Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 1 = Subtract Occupant Weight 150 lbs. (68 kg) × 2 = Available Occupant and Cargo Weight =

Total

1,000 lbs. (453 kg)

300 lbs. (136 kg)

700 lbs. (317 kg)

Example 2

Loading Your Vehicle

Item

Description

Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 2 = Subtract Occupant Weight 150 lbs. (68 kg) × 5 = Available Cargo Weight =

Total

1,000 lbs. (453 kg)

750 lbs. (340 kg)

250 lbs. (113 kg)

4-69

Certiﬁcation/Tire Label

Example 3

Loading Your Vehicle

Item

Description

Total

Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 3 = Subtract Occupant Weight 200 lbs. (91 kg) × 5 = Available Cargo Weight =

1,000 lbs. (453 kg)

1,000 lbs. (453 kg)

0 lbs. (0 kg)

Refer to your vehicle’s tire and loading information label for speciﬁc information about your vehicle’s capacity weight and seating positions. The combined weight of the driver, passengers and cargo should never exceed your vehicle’s capacity weight.

4-70

The Certiﬁcation/Tire label is found on the rear edge of the driver’s door. The label shows the size of your original tires and the inﬂation pressures needed to obtain the gross weight capacity of your vehicle. This is called the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating). The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel and cargo.

The Certiﬁcation/Tire label also tells you the maximum weights for the front and rear axles, called Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). To ﬁnd out the actual loads on your front and rear axles, you need to go to a weigh station and weigh your vehicle. Your dealer can help you with this. Be sure to spread out your load equally on both sides of the centerline. Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle, or the GAWR for either the front or rear axle. And, if you do have a heavy load, you should spread it out.

{CAUTION:

Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the GVWR, or either the maximum front or rear GAWR. If you do, parts on your vehicle can

CAUTION:

(Continued)

CAUTION:

(Continued)

break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle.

Your warranty does not cover parts or components that fail because of overloading. The label will help you decide how much cargo and installed equipment your truck can carry.

4-71

Using heavier suspension components to get added durability might not change your weight ratings. Ask your dealer to help you load your vehicle the right way. If you put things inside your vehicle – like suitcases, tools, packages, or anything else – they go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they’ll keep going.

{CAUTION:

Things you put inside your vehicle can strike and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or in a crash.

(cid:127) Put things in the cargo area of your

vehicle. Try to spread the weight evenly.

(cid:127) Never stack heavier things, like suitcases,

inside the vehicle so that some of them are above the tops of the seats.

(cid:127) Do not leave an unsecured child restraint

in your vehicle.

(cid:127) When you carry something inside the vehicle, secure it whenever you can.

(cid:127) Do not leave a seat folded down unless

you need to.

4-72

There’s also important loading information for off-road driving in this manual. See “Loading Your Vehicle for Off-Road Driving” under Off-Road Driving on page 4-17. Add-On Equipment When you carry removable items, you may need to put a limit on how many people you can carry inside your vehicle. Be sure to weigh your vehicle before you buy and install the new equipment. Notice: Overloading your vehicle may cause damage. Repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not overload your vehicle. Remember not to exceed the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) of the front or rear axle. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-67. The Cargo Weight Rating (CWR) is the maximum weight of the load your vehicle can carry. It doesn’t include the weight of the people inside. But you can ﬁgure about 150 lbs. (68 kg) for each seat. The total cargo load must not be more than your vehicle’s CWR.

Selectable Extended Rear Ride Height If your vehicle has this feature it comes as part of the electronically controlled air suspension system. The selectable rear ride height allows you to raise the rear of the vehicle about 2 inches (5 cm) over the normal ride height. This can be helpful when driving off-road where you may need more ground clearance to clear an obstacle.

The button that controls this feature is located on the instrument panel to the right of the steering wheel.

To use this feature, ensure that the following conditions are met:

The engine must be running.

(cid:127) All doors must be fully closed. The suspension will

not raise or lower if a door is open. The vehicle speed must be less than 40 mph (64 km/h). The system will not activate otherwise. Press the height control button to raise the rear of the vehicle. A light in the button will begin to ﬂash as the rear of the vehicle rises. Once the extended height has been reached (this may take up to a minute), the warning light will stop ﬂashing and will stay lit while the vehicle is at the extended height. To lower the vehicle to the normal ride height, press the button again. The light in the button will ﬂash as the suspension lowers. When the light in the button stops ﬂashing and goes out, the suspension has reached the normal ride height. This feature will lower the vehicle to the normal height if vehicle speed exceeds 40 mph (64 km/h). You may also want to use this feature when ascending, descending or cresting a steep hill as this can help prevent the rear bumper from dragging on the base of the hill or prevent the vehicle from grounding out (high centering) on the crest of the hill. Do not use this feature when towing a trailer.

4-73

(cid:127) (cid:127) Electronically Controlled Air Suspension System The electronically controlled air suspension, if equipped, keeps the rear of your vehicle level as you load and unload it. The system includes a compressor, two height sensor and two air springs supporting the vehicle. The engine must be running for the system to operate and level the vehicle after loading or unloading. The system will suspend leveling if any of the doors and/or the liftgate are open. Once the doors are closed, system leveling will continue. You may hear the compressor running when you load your vehicle, and periodically as the system adjusts the vehicle to the standard ride height. You may also hear the release of air similar to a hissing sound during suspension operation. This is normal. Load leveling will not function normally with the inﬂator hose attached to the inﬂator outlet. Remove the inﬂater hose from the outlet when it is not in use. See Accessory Inﬂator on page 5-76.

Overload and Overheat Protection Overload protection is designed to protect the air suspension system and is an indication to the driver that the vehicle is overloaded. If the rear suspension remains at a low height, the rear axle load has exceeded GAWR (Gross Axle Weight Rating). When the overload protection mode is activated, the compressor operates for about 30 seconds to one minute without raising the vehicle depending on the amount of overload. This will continue each time the ignition is turned on until the rear axle load is reduced below GAWR. If the total rear GAWR (Gross Axle Weight Rating) is reached, the suspension may be slightly less than level. This is normal and does not mean there is a problem with the air suspension. If the system overheats, it will shut down and stop all leveling functions until the system cools down. During this time the SERVICE AIR SUSPENSION message will appear in the DIC. See Driver Information Center (DIC) on page 3-44 for more information.

4-74

Trailer Recommendations You must subtract your hitch loads from the Cargo Weight Rating (CWR). CWR is the maximum weight of the load your vehicle can carry. It doesn’t include the weight of the people inside. But you can ﬁgure about 150 lbs. (68 kg) for each seat. The total cargo load must not be more than your vehicle’s CWR. Weigh your vehicle with the trailer attached, so that you won’t go over the GVWR or GAWR. If you are using a weight-distributing hitch, weigh the vehicle without the spring bars in place. You’ll get the best performance if you spread out the weight of your load the right way, and if you choose the correct hitch and trailer brakes. For more information, see Towing a Trailer on page 4-75.

Towing a Trailer

{CAUTION:

If you do not use the correct equipment and drive properly, you can lose control when you pull a trailer. For example, if the trailer is too heavy, the brakes may not work well — or even at all. You and your passengers could be seriously injured. Pull a trailer only if you have followed all the steps in this section. Ask your dealer for advice and information about towing a trailer with your vehicle.

Notice: Pulling a trailer improperly can damage your vehicle and result in costly repairs not covered by your warranty. To pull a trailer correctly, follow the advice in this part, and see your dealer for important information about towing a trailer with your vehicle. To identify the trailering capacity of your vehicle, you should read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this section.

4-75

If yours was built with trailering options, as many are, it’s ready for heavier trailers. But trailering is different than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, accelleration, braking, durability and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly. That’s the reason for this part. In it are many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before you pull a trailer. If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer If you do, here are some important points:

There are many different laws, including speed limit restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure your rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you’ll be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police.

(cid:127) Consider using a sway control. See “Hitches” later

in this section.

(cid:127) Don’t tow a trailer at all during the ﬁrst 500 miles (800 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine, axle or other parts could be damaged. Then, during the ﬁrst 500 miles (800 km) that you tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the heavier loads.

(cid:127) You can tow in DRIVE (D). You may want to shift the transmission to THIRD (3) or, if necessary, a lower gear selection if the transmission shifts too often (e.g., under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions). See “Tow/Haul Mode” following.

Three important considerations have to do with weight:

the weight of the trailer, the weight of the trailer tongue and the weight on your vehicle’s tires.

4-76

(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) Tow/Haul Mode Tow/haul is designed to assist while your vehicle is pulling a large or heavy load or trailer. Tow/haul is most useful while pulling such a load in rolling terrain, in stop-and-go traffic, or when you need improved low-speed control, such as when parking. The purpose of the tow/haul mode is to do the following: (cid:127) Reduce the frequency and improve the predictability of transmission shifts when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load.

(cid:127) Provide the same solid shift feel when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load as when the vehicle is unloaded. Improve control of vehicle speed while requiring less throttle pedal activity when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load.

Tow/haul is designed to be most effective when the vehicle and trailer combined weight is at least 75% of the vehicle’s Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR). See “Weight of the Trailer” later in this section.

Press the button on the instrument panel to the right of the steering wheel to enable the tow/haul mode.

A light on the instrument panel will illuminate to indicate that tow/haul mode has been selected.

Press the button again to turn off tow/haul. The indicator light on the instrument panel will turn off. The vehicle will automatically turn off tow/haul every time it is started. Driving with tow/haul activated without a heavy load or with no trailer will cause reduced fuel economy and unpleasant engine and transmission driving characteristics, but will not cause damage.

4-77

(cid:127) Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. And, it can also depend on any special equipment that you have on your vehicle.

Use one of the following charts to determine how much your vehicle can weigh, based upon your vehicle model and options. Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming only the driver is in the tow vehicle and it has all the required trailering equipment. The weight of additional optional equipment, passengers and cargo in the tow vehicle must be subtracted from the maximum trailer weight.

Engine

Axle Ratio

*Maximum Trailer

Weight

**GCWR

6000 V8
**The Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR) in the total allowable weight of the completely loaded vehicle and trailer including any passengers, cargo, equipment and conversions. The GCWR for your vehicle should not be exceeded.

13,500 lbs. (6 123 kg)

6,700 lbs. (3 039 kg)

4.10

You can ask your dealer for our trailering information or advice, or you can write us at the address listed in your Warranty and Owner Assistance Information Booklet.

In Canada, write to:

General Motors of Canada Limited Customer Communication Centre, 163-005
1908 Colonel Sam Drive Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7

4-78

Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total gross weight of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. If you have a lot of options, equipment, passengers or cargo in your vehicle, it will reduce the tongue weight your vehicle can carry, which will also reduce the trailer weight your vehicle can tow. And if you will tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load to the GVW because your vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-67 for more information about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.

The trailer tongue weight (A) should be 10 percent to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B), up to a maximum of 500 lbs (227 kg) with a weight carrying hitch. The trailer tongue weight (A) should be 10 percent to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B), up to a maximum of 700 lbs (318 kg) with a weight distributing hitch. Do not exceed the maximum allowable tongion the hitch ball closest to the vehicle. This will help reduce the effect of trailer tongue weight on the rear axle. After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they aren’t, you may be able to get them right simply by moving some items around in the trailer. Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inﬂated to the upper limit for cold tires. You’ll ﬁnd these numbers on the Certiﬁcation label at the rear edge of the driver’s door or see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-67. Then be sure you don’t go over the GVW limit for your vehicle, or the GAWR, including the weight of the trailer tongue. If you use a weight distributing hitch, make sure you don’t go over the rear axle limit before you apply the weight distribution spring bars.

4-79

When using a weight-distributing hitch, the hitch must be adjusted so that the distance (A) remains the same both before and after coupling the trailer to the tow vehicle. If you ll be pulling a trailer that, when loaded, will weigh more than 4,000 lbs. (1 814 kg) be sure to use a properly mounted weight-distributing hitch and sway control of the proper size. This equipment is very important for proper vehicle loading and good handling when driving. You should always use a sway control if your trailer will weigh more than these limits. You can ask a hitch dealer about sway controls. Safety Chains You should always attach chains between your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer to help prevent the tongue from contacting the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Always leave just enough slack so you can turn with your rig. Never allow safety chains to drag on the ground.

Hitches It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch. Weight-distributing Hitches and Weight Carrying Hitches

(A) Body-to-Ground Distance (B) Front of Vehicle

4-80

Trailer Brakes If your trailer weighs more than 2,000 lbs. (900 kg) loaded, then it needs its own brakes – and they must be adequate. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install, adjust and maintain them properly. Your trailer brake system can tap into the vehicle’s hydraulic brake system only if:

The trailer parts can withstand 3,000 psi (20 650 kPa) of pressure. The trailer’s brake system will use less than 0.02 cubic inch (0.3 cc) of ﬂuid from your vehicle’s master cylinder. Otherwise, both braking systems won’t work well. You could even lose your brakes. If everything checks out this far, make the brake tap at the port on the master cylinder that sends the ﬂuid to the rear brakes. But don’t use copper tubing for this. If you do, it will bend and ﬁnally break off. Use steel brake tubing.

Driving with a Trailer Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as responsive as your vehicle is by itself. Before you start, check all trailer hitch parts and attachments, safety chains, electrical connector, lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your electrical connection at the same time. During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working.

4-81

(cid:127) (cid:127) Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns. Passing You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane. Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you.

Making Turns Notice: Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering. When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance. Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer The arrows on your instrument panel will ﬂash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also ﬂash, telling other drivers you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop. When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument panel will ﬂash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working.

4-82

Driving On Grades Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. You can tow in DRIVE (D). You may want to shift the transmission to THIRD (3) or, if necessary, a lower gear selection if the transmission shifts too often (e.g., under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions). You may also want to activate the tow/haul mode if the transmission shifts too often. See “Tow/Haul Mode” earlier. When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, consider the following: Engine coolant will boil at a lower temperature than at normal altitudes. If you turn your engine off immediately after towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs similar to engine overheating. To avoid this, let the engine run while parked (preferably on level ground) with the automatic transmission in PARK (P) for a few minutes before turning the engine off. If you do get the overheat warning, see Engine Overheating on page 5-27.

Parking on Hills

{CAUTION:

You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged.

But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s how to do it: 1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into

PARK (P) yet.

2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer

wheels.

3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.

4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your

parking brake and shift into PARK (P).

5. Release the regular brakes.

4-83

Trailer Wiring Harness Heavy-Duty Trailer Wiring Package

Your vehicle is equipped with a trailer towing harness. This harness with a seven-pin universal heavy-duty trailer connector is attached to a bracket on the hitch platform. The Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) wire is tied next to the trailer wiring harness for use with a trailer.

When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down

while you:

start your engine, shift into a gear, and release the parking brake.

2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks. 4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the

chocks.

Maintenance When Trailer Towing Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more on this. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transmission ﬂuid (don’t overﬁll), engine oil, axle lubricant, belts, cooling system and brake system. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you ﬁnd them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review these sections before you start your trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight.

4-84

(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) The trailer towing harness contains the following trailer circuits: (cid:127) Yellow: Left Stop/Turn Signal (cid:127) Dark Green: Right Stop/Turn Signal (cid:127) Brown: Taillamps (cid:127) White: Ground

Light Green: Back-up Lamps Light Blue: Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) (cid:127) Red: Battery Feed (cid:127) Dark Blue: Trailer Brake

A jumper harness for an electric trailer brake controller and a trailer battery feed fuse may be included with this trailering package. See “Instrument Panel Jumper Wiring Harness” later in this section. If you need to tow a light-duty trailer with a standard four-way, round pin connector, an adapter may be included. See “Four-Wire Harness Adapter” later in this section.

4-85

(cid:127) (cid:127) If your vehicle has factory or

Instrument Panel Jumper Wiring Harness Notice: dealer-installed HUMMER off-road lamps, the place where an electric trailer brake connection must be made is already in use. Do not attempt to double-up or “piggyback” the connection, because this could cause a failure or damage to your vehicle, the electric trailer brake system, or both. If you want to connect a trailer with electric brakes to your vehicle, see your dealer to disconnect the off-road lamps. Also, read Add-On Electrical Equipment on page 5-101 for more information.

This harness may be included with your vehicle as part of the heavy-duty trailer wiring package.

{CAUTION:

Be sure to use only the correct trailer brake harness, the one intended for use on your vehicle. If you use some other trailer brake harness, even if it seems to ﬁt, your trailer brakes may not work at all. You could have a crash in which you or others could be injured. Use only the trailer brake harness intended for your vehicle. If it is no longer available to you, be sure to get a proper replacement from your dealer.

This harness is for an electric brake controller and includes a trailer battery feed fuse. It should be installed by your dealer or a qualiﬁed service center.

4-86

Four-Wire Harness Adapter

This adapter may be included with your vehicle as part of the heavy-duty trailer wiring package.

Use this adapter to connect a standard four-way round pin connector to the seven-wire harness on your vehicle.

Connect the adapter with the tab pointing up. The ﬂip cap on the vehicle’s seven-wire harness will lock onto the tab (see arrow in the previous graphic) and help hold the adapter in place. Plug the four-way round pin connector onto the adapter.

4-87

✍ NOTES

4-88

Section 5

Service and Appearance Care

Service ............................................................5-3
Doing Your Own Service Work .........................5-4
Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your

Vehicle ......................................................5-5
Fuel ................................................................5-5
Gasoline Octane ............................................5-5
Gasoline Speciﬁcations ....................................5-5
California Fuel ...............................................5-6
Additives .......................................................5-6
Fuels in Foreign Countries ...............................5-7
Filling Your Tank ............................................5-7
Filling a Portable Fuel Container .......................5-9
Checking Things Under the Hood ....................5-10
Hood Release ..............................................5-10
Engine Compartment Overview .......................5-12
Engine Oil ...................................................5-14
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter ................................5-19
Automatic Transmission Fluid .........................5-21
Engine Coolant .............................................5-24
Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap ..................5-27
Engine Overheating .......................................5-27
Cooling System ............................................5-30

Engine Fan Noise .........................................5-35
Power Steering Fluid .....................................5-36
Windshield Washer Fluid ................................5-37
Brakes ........................................................5-38
Battery ........................................................5-42
Jump Starting ...............................................5-43
All-Wheel Drive ..............................................5-48
Rear Axle .......................................................5-50
Front Axle ......................................................5-51
Bulb Replacement ..........................................5-52
Halogen Bulbs ..............................................5-52
Headlamps ..................................................5-52
Front Turn Signal and Parking Lamps ..............5-53
Sidemarker Lamps ........................................5-54
Daytime Running Lamps ................................5-54
Roof Marker Lamps ......................................5-55
Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) .........5-57
Taillamps .....................................................5-57
Replacement Bulbs .......................................5-58
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement ..............5-59

5-1

Section 5

Service and Appearance Care

Tires ..............................................................5-60
Inﬂation - Tire Pressure .................................5-68
Tire Inspection and Rotation ...........................5-69
When It Is Time for New Tires .......................5-70
Buying New Tires .........................................5-71
Uniform Tire Quality Grading ..........................5-72
Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance ..................5-73
Wheel Replacement ......................................5-74
Tire Chains ..................................................5-75
Accessory Inﬂator .........................................5-76
If a Tire Goes Flat ........................................5-78
Changing a Flat Tire .....................................5-79
Spare Tire ...................................................5-92
Appearance Care ............................................5-92
Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle .................5-93
Care of Safety Belts ......................................5-95
Weatherstrips ...............................................5-95

Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle ..............5-95
Sheet Metal Damage .....................................5-98
Finish Damage .............................................5-99
Underbody Maintenance ................................5-99
Chemical Paint Spotting .................................5-99
Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials ................5-100
Vehicle Identiﬁcation .....................................5-101
Vehicle Identiﬁcation Number (VIN) ................5-101
Service Parts Identiﬁcation Label ...................5-101
Electrical System ..........................................5-101
Add-On Electrical Equipment .........................5-101
Windshield Wiper Fuses ...............................5-102
Power Windows and Other Power Options ......5-102
Fuses and Circuit Breakers ..........................5-102
Capacities and Speciﬁcations ........................5-111

5-2

Service Your dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you will go to your dealer for all your service needs. You will get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. We hope you will want to keep your GM vehicle all GM. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:

California Proposition 65 Warning Most motor vehicles, including this one, contain and/or emit chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. Engine exhaust, many parts and systems (including some inside the vehicle), many ﬂuids, and some component wear by-products contain and/or emit these chemicals.

5-3

{CAUTION:

You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it.

(cid:127) Be sure you have sufficient knowledge,

experience, the proper replacement parts and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task.

(cid:127) Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts and

other fasteners. “English” and “metric” fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.

Doing Your Own Service Work If you want to do some of your own service work, you will want to use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 7-11. Your vehicle may have an air bag system. If it does, see Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-72 before attempting to do your own service work. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See Maintenance Record on page 6-16.

5-4

Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airﬂow around it. This may cause wind noise and affect windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle. Fuel The 8th digit of your vehicle identiﬁcation number (VIN) shows the code letter or number that identiﬁes your engine. You will ﬁnd the VIN at the top left of the instrument panel. See Vehicle Identiﬁcation Number (VIN) on page 5-101.

Gasoline Octane Use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane of 87
or higher. If the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. Otherwise, you might damage your engine. A little pinging noise when you accelerate or drive uphill is considered normal. This does not indicate a problem exists or that a higher-octane fuel is necessary. If you are using 87 octane or higher-octane fuel and hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service.

Gasoline Speciﬁcations It is recommended that gasoline meet speciﬁcations which were developed by automobile manufacturers around the world and contained in the World-Wide Fuel Charter which is available from the Alliance of Automobile Manufacturers at www.autoalliance.org. Gasoline meeting these speciﬁcations could provide improved driveability and emission control system performance compared to other gasoline.

In Canada, look for the “Auto Makers’ Choice” label on the pump.

Canada Only

5-5

California Fuel If your vehicle is certiﬁed to meet California Emission Standards (see the underhood emission control label), it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California speciﬁcations. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal speciﬁcations, but emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on (see Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-38 ) and your vehicle may fail a smog-check test. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs may not be covered by your warranty.

Additives To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that will help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing your emission control system to work properly. You should not have to add anything to your fuel. However, some gasolines contain only the minimum amount of additive required to meet U.S. Environmental Protection Agency regulations. General Motors recommends that you buy gasolines that are advertised to help keep fuel injectors and intake

5-6

valves clean. If your vehicle experiences problems due to dirty injectors or valves, try a different brand of gasoline. Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in your area to contribute to clean air. General Motors recommends that you use these gasolines, particularly if they comply with the speciﬁcations described earlier. Notice: Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage the plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under your warranty. Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT. General Motors does not recommend the use of such gasolines. Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for service.

Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard to ﬁnd. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel would not be covered by your warranty. To check the fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you will be driving.

Filling Your Tank

{CAUTION:

Fuel vapor burns violently and a fuel ﬁre can cause bad injuries. To help avoid injuries to you and others, read and follow all the instructions on the pump island. Turn off your engine when you are refueling. Do not smoke if you are near fuel or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, ﬂames and smoking materials away from fuel. Do not leave the fuel pump unattended when refueling your vehicle — this is against the law in some places. Keep children away from the fuel pump; never let children pump fuel.

5-7

The fuel cap is located on the driver’s side of the vehicle.

Some vehicles may be equipped with a locking fuel cap. Use the fuel cap key to unlock the fuel cap. If you ever need a replacement key, your dealer can help you get one.

Turn the fuel cap slowly to the left (counterclockwise) to remove it. While refueling, let the fuel cap hang by the tether, if it has one.

Some vehicles may be equipped with a fuel door. Open the door to access the fuel cap.

{CAUTION:

If a ﬁre starts while you are refueling, do not remove the nozzle. Shut off the ﬂow of fuel by shutting off the pump or by notifying the station attendant. Leave the area immediately.

5-8

Be careful not to spill fuel. Don’t top off or overﬁll your tank and wait a few seconds after you’ve ﬁnished pumping before you remove the nozzle. Clean any spilled fuel from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle on page 5-95. When you put the fuel cap back on, turn it to the right (clockwise) until you hear a clicking sound. Make sure you fully install the cap. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. this would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-38. Notice: the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not ﬁt properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage your fuel tank and emissions system. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-38.

If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get

Filling a Portable Fuel Container

{CAUTION:

Never ﬁll a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others:

(cid:127) Dispense gasoline only into approved

containers.

(cid:127) Do not ﬁll a container while it is inside a

vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed or on any surface other than the ground. (cid:127) Bring the ﬁll nozzle in contact with the

inside of the ﬁll opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the ﬁlling is complete.

(cid:127) Do not smoke while pumping gasoline.

5-9

Checking Things Under the Hood

Hood Release To open the hood, do the following:

{CAUTION:

Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a ﬁre. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake ﬂuid, windshield washer and other ﬂuids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.

1. Release both hood side latches.

5-10

2. Pull the handle located

inside the vehicle to the lower left of the steering wheel.

3. Then go to the front of the vehicle and pull the

assist handles toward you to lift the hood.

4. Pull the hood open until it is supported by the

cables.

Before closing the hood, be sure all ﬁller caps are on properly. To close the hood, do the following: 1. Hold up the hood a few inches from the closed position and then let it go so that it has enough force to engage the hood latch.

2. Pull up on the assist handles to be sure that the

hood is latched.

3. Latch both hood side latches.

5-11

Engine Compartment Overview When you open the hood on the VORTEC™ 6000 V8 engine you will see the following:

5-12

A. Coolant Surge Tank. See Cooling System on

page 5-30 and Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap on page 5-27.

B. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air

Cleaner/Filter on page 5-19.

C. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See Windshield

Washer Fluid on page 5-37.

D. Engine Oil Fill. See Engine Oil on page 5-14. E. Engine Oil Dipstick. See Engine Oil on page 5-14. F. Automatic Transmission Dipstick. See Automatic

Transmission Fluid on page 5-21.

G. Fan. See Cooling System on page 5-30 and Engine

Fan Noise on page 5-35.

H. Remote Negative (−) Terminal (GND). See Jump

Starting on page 5-43.

I. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir (Out of View). See

Power Steering Fluid on page 5-36.

J. Remote Positive (+) Terminal. See Jump Starting on

page 5-43.

K. Brake Fluid Reservoir. See Brakes on page 5-38. L. Underhood Fuse Block. See “Underhood Fuse Block”

under Fuses and Circuit Breakers on page 5-102.

M. Battery. See Battery on page 5-42. Before closing the hood, be sure all ﬁller caps are on properly. Pull down the hood and close it ﬁrmly.

5-13

Engine Oil If the CHECK OIL LEVEL message appears on the instrument cluster, it means you need to check your engine oil level right away. For more information, see “CHECK OIL LEVEL” under DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-56. You should check your engine oil level regularly; this is an added reminder. Checking Engine Oil It is a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.

The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine oil dipstick. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you don’t, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.

5-14

When to Add Engine Oil If the oil is at or below the cross-hatched area at the tip of the dipstick, then you will need to add at least one quart of oil. But you must use the right kind. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Speciﬁcations on page 5-111. Notice: Do not add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged.

See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine oil ﬁll cap.

Be sure to add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you are through. What Kind of Engine Oil to Use Look for two things: (cid:127) GM6094M

Your vehicle’s engine requires oil meeting GM Standard GM6094M. You should look for and use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM6094M.

5-15

(cid:127) SAE 5W-30

As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. However, if it is going to be 0°F (–18°C) or above and SAE 5W-30 is not available, you may use SAE 10W-30. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50.

Oils meeting these requirements should also have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certiﬁed by the American Petroleum Institute (API).

You should look for this information on the oil container, and use only those oils that are identiﬁed as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and have the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container.

5-16

Notice: Use only engine oil identiﬁed as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and showing the American Petroleum Institute Certiﬁed For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty. GM Goodwrench® oil meets all the requirements for your vehicle. If you are in an area of extreme cold, where the temperature falls below −20°F (−29°C), it is recommended that you use either an SAE 5W-30
synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both will provide easier cold starting and better protection for your engine at extremely low temperatures. Engine Oil Additives Do not add anything to your oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol that meet GM Standard GM6094M are all you will need for good performance and engine protection.

When to Change Engine Oil (GM Oil Life System) Your vehicle has a computer system that lets you know when to change the engine oil and ﬁlter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change will be indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, you must reset the system every time the oil is changed. When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it will indicate that an oil change is necessary. A CHANGE ENGINE OIL message will come on. Change your oil as soon as possible within the next two times you stop for fuel. It is possible that, if you are driving under the best conditions, the oil life system may not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, your engine oil and ﬁlter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. Your dealer has GM-trained service people who will perform this work using genuine GM parts and reset the system. It is also important to check your oil regularly and keep it at the proper level. If the system is ever reset accidentally, you must change your oil at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since your last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed.

5-17

What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the

Boost Classifieds - Car Advice, Reviews, Events & Classifieds

2004 Hummer H2 Owners Manual