1993 Honda Civic Sedan Owners Manual

Park before you can remove the key from the ignition switch.

If you have done all of the above and still cannot move the lever out of Park, see Shift Lock Release on page 105.

CONTINUED

Driving

Main MenuTable of ContentsstAutomatic Transmission

Reverse (R) — To shift to Re- verse from Park, see the explana- tion under Park. To shift to Re- verse from Neutral, come to a com- plete stop and then shift. Press the release button before shifting into Reverse from Neutral.

Neutral (N) — Use Neutral if you need to restart a stalled engine, or if it is necessary to stop briefly with the engine idling. Shift to Park posi- tion if you need to leave the car for any reason. Press on the brake pe- dal when you are moving the shift lever from Neutral to another gear.

Drive (D4) — Use this position for your normal driving. The transmis- sion automatically selects a suita- ble gear for your speed and acceler- ation. You may notice the transmis- sion shifting up at higher speeds when the engine is cold. This helps the engine warm up faster.

Driving

hills. Use second gear when start- ing out on a slippery surface or in deep snow. It will help reduce wheelspin.

Whenever you move the shift lever to a lower gear, the transmission downshifts only if the engine's redline will not be exceeded in the lower gear.

First (1) — To shift from Second to First, press the release button on the side of the shift lever. With the lever in this position, the transmis- sion locks in First gear. By upshift- ing and downshifting through 1, 2, D3 and D4, you can operate this transmission much like a manual transmission without a clutch pedal.

Drive (D3) — This position is simi- lar to D4, except only the first three gears are selected. Use D3 to provide engine braking when going down a steep hill. D3 can also keep the transmission from cycling between third and fourth gears in stop-and-go driving.

For faster acceleration when in D3
or D4, you can get the transmission to automatically downshift by push- ing the accelerator pedal to the floor. The transmission will shift down one or two gears, depending on your speed.

Second (2) — To shift to Second, press the release button on the side of the shift lever. This position locks the transmission in second gear. It does not downshift to first gear when you come to a stop. Second gives you more power when climbing, and increased engine braking when going down steep

Main MenuTable of ContentsstMaximum Speeds The speeds in this table are the maximums for the given position. If you exceed these speeds, the engine speed will enter into the tachometer's red zone. If this occurs, you will feel the engine cut in and out. This is caused by a limiter in the engine's computer controls. The engine will run normally when you reduce the RPM below the red zone.

(US: DX, LX, Canada: LX, EX)

(US: EX, Canada: EX-V)

Shift Lock Release This allows you to move the shift lever out of Park if the normal method of pushing on the brake pedal and pressing the release button does not work.

1. Set the Parking brake.

2. Remove the key from the

ignition switch.

3. Insert the key in the Shift Lock

Release slot next to the shift lever.

4. Push down on the key while you

press the release button and move the shift lever out of Park to Neutral.

Automatic Transmission

SHIFT LOCK RELEASE SLOT

RELEASE BUTTON 5. Remove the key from the Shift Lock Release slot. Depress the brake pedal and restart the engine.

If you need to use the Shift Lock Release, it could mean your car is developing a problem. Have the car checked by your Honda dealer.

Driving

Main MenuTable of ContentsstThe Braking System

All Civics are equipped with front disc brakes. The brakes on the rear wheels may be disc or drum, depending on model. The braking system is power-assisted to reduce the effort needed on the brake pedal.

Put your foot on the brake pedal only when you intend to brake. Resting your foot on the pedal keeps the brakes applied lightly, causing them to build up heat. Heat build-up can reduce how well your brakes work. It also keeps your brake lights on all the time, con- fusing drivers behind you.

Constant application of the brakes when going down a long hill builds up heat and reduces their effective- ness. Use the engine to assist the brakes by downshifting to a lower gear and taking your foot off the accelerator pedal.

Driving

Check your brakes after driving through deep water. Apply the brakes moderately to see if they feel normal. If not, apply them gently and frequently until they do. Since a longer distance is needed to stop with wet brakes, be extra cautious and alert in your driving.

Brake Wear Indicators The front disc brakes on all cars have audible brake wear indicators. They are also on the rear brakes of cars equipped with ABS. When the brake pads need re- placing, you will hear a distinctive metallic "screeching" sound when you apply the brakes. If you do not have the brake pads replaced, they will begin screeching all the time.

Your brakes may sometimes squeal or squeak when you apply them lightly. Do not confuse this with the brake wear indicators. They make a very audible "screeching".

Brake System Design The hydraulic system that operates the brakes has two separate cir- cuits. Each circuit works diago- nally across the car (the left-front brake is connected with the right- rear brake, etc.). If one circuit should develop a problem, you will still have braking at two wheels.

Front

Main MenuTable of ContentsstIf this happens, you will immediate- ly notice that the brake pedal goes down much farther and you need to press on it much harder. A much longer distance will be needed to stop the car.

Slow the car by downshifting to a lower gear and removing your foot from the accelerator pedal. Pull to the side of the road as soon as it is safe. Because of the longer stop- ping distance needed, brake system failure is very hazardous. It is best to have your car towed, but if you must drive the car in this condition, be extremely cautious. Have your car repaired as soon as possible.

Anti-lock Brakes The Civic EX model in the U.S. has an Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) as standard equipment. It is optional on the Canadian EX-V model. ABS has disc brakes on the rear wheels in place of the standard drum-type brakes. For a further explanation of the ABS equipment, refer to page 188 .

ABS helps you maintain steering control. It does this by helping you to prevent the wheels from locking up and skidding.

The Braking System

The ABS is always "On". It requires no special effort or driving technique. You will feel a pulsation in the brake pedal when the ABS activates.

Activation varies with the amount of traction your tires have. On dry pavement, you will need to press on the brake pedal very hard before you feel the pedal pulsation that means the ABS has activated. However, you may feel the ABS activate immediately if you are trying to stop on snow or ice. Under all conditions, the ABS is helping to prevent the wheels from locking so you can retain steering control. You should continue to press on the brake pedal with the same force.

You may feel a slight movement of the brake pedal just after you start the engine. This is the ABS working.

CONTINUED

Driving

Main MenuTable of ContentsstThe Braking System, Driving in Bad Weather

The ABS works by comparing the speed of the wheels. When re- placing tires, use the same size originally supplied with the car. Tire size and construction can affect wheel speed and may cause the system to work inconsistently.

A car with ABS may require a longer distance to stop on loose or uneven surfaces than an equivalent car without Anti-lock. The ABS cannot make up for road conditions or bad judgment. It is still your responsibility to drive at reasonable speeds for weather and traffic conditions, and to leave a margin of safety.

For a technical description of the ABS hardware, refer to page 188 .

Driving in Bad Weather

Rain, fog, and snow conditions re- quire a different driving technique because of reduced traction and visibility. Keep your car well- maintained and exercise greater caution when you need to drive in bad weather. The cruise control should not be used in these condi- tions.

The ABS is self-checking. If anything goes wrong, the ABS indi- cator on the instrument panel comes on (see page 32 ). This means the Anti-lock function of the brak- ing system has shut down. The brakes still work like a convention- al system, providing normal stop- ping ability. You should have the dealer inspect your car as soon as possible.

Driving

Main MenuTable of ContentsstDriving Technique — Always drive slower than you would in dry weather. It takes your car longer to react, even in conditions that may seem just barely damp. Apply smooth, even pressure to all the controls. Abrupt steering wheel movements or sudden, hard appli- cation of the brakes can cause loss of control in wet weather. Be extra cautious for the first few miles of driving while you adjust to the change in driving conditions. This is especially true in snow. A person can forget some snow-driving tech- niques during the summer months. Practice is needed to relearn those skills.

Exercise extra caution when driving in rain after a long dry spell. After months of dry weather, the first rains bring oil to the surface of the roadway, making it slippery.

Driving in Bad Weather

Visibility — Being able to see clearly in all directions and being visible to other drivers are impor- tant in all weather conditions. This is more difficult in bad weather. To be seen more clearly during day- light hours, turn on your headlights.

Traction — Check your tires frequently for wear and proper pressure. Both are important in preventing "hydroplaning" (loss of traction on a wet surface). In the winter, mount snow tires on all four wheels for the best handling.

Inspect your windshield wipers and washers frequently. Keep the wind- shield washer reservoir full of the proper fluid. Replace the wind- shield wiper blades if they start to streak the windshield or leave parts unwiped. Use the defrosters and air conditioning to keep the windows from fogging up on the inside (see page 69).

Watch road conditions carefully, they can change from moment to moment. Wet leaves can be as slip- pery as ice. "Clear" roads can have patches of ice. Driving conditions can be very hazardous when the outside temperature is near freez- ing. The road surface can become covered with areas of water pud- dles mixed with areas of ice, so your traction can change without warning.

Be careful when downshifting. If traction is low, you can lock up the drive wheels for a moment and cause a skid.

CONTINUED

Driving

Main MenuTable of ContentsstDriving in Bad Weather, Towing a Trailer

Towing a Trailer Your car is not designed to tow a trailer. Attempting to do so can void your warranties.

Be very cautious when passing, or being passed by other vehicles. The spray from large vehicles reduces your visibility, and the wind buffeting can cause you to lose control.

Driving

Main MenuTable of ContentsstRegularly maintaining your Honda is the best way to protect your investment. You will be rewarded with safer, more economical, trouble-free driving. This section lists items that need to be checked regularly and explains how to check them. It also details some simple maintenance tasks you can do yourself. The maintenance schedules for normal and severe driving conditions show you when these things need to be done.

If you are interested in how to per- form more complex maintenance on your Honda, you can purchase the Service Manual. See page 199 for information on how to obtain a copy, or see your Honda dealer.

Maintenance Schedule................ 112
Maintenance Record................ 115
Periodic Checks............................ 117
Fluid Locations............................. 118
Engine Oil...................................... 119
Checking Engine Oil................ 119
Adding........................................ 119
Recommended Oil.................... 120
Additives.................................... 120
Oil and Filter Changes............. 121
Cooling System............................. 123

Checking the Engine Coolant

Level....................................... 123
Adding Engine Coolant........... 123
Replacing Engine Coolant...... 124
Windshield Washers.................... 127
Transmission Oil.......................... 128

Automatic

Transmission......................... 128

5-speed Manual

Transmission......................... 129
Brake and Clutch Fluid............... 130
Brake System............................ 130
Anti-lock Brake System.......... 131
Clutch System........................... 131
Power Steering............................. 132

Maintenance

Air Cleaner.................................... 133
Fuel Filter...................................... 134
Spark Plugs................................... 134
Replacement.............................. 134
Specification.............................. 136
Battery............................................ 136
Windshield Wipers....................... 139
Air Conditioning........................... 141
Engine Belts.................................. 142
Tires................................................ 142
Inflation...................................... 142
Inspection................................... 143
Maintenance.............................. 144
Tire Rotation............................ 144
Replacing Tires........................ 145
Wheels and Tires...................... 145
DOT Tire Quality Grading..... 145
Treadwear............................. 145
Traction................................. 146
Temperature......................... 146
Winter Driving.......................... 147
Snow Tires................................ 147
Tire Chains................................ 147
Lights.............................................. 148
Replacing Bulbs........................ 148
Storing Your Car.......................... 154

Maintenance

Main MenustMaintenance Schedule

The Required Maintenance Schedule specifies how often you should have your car serviced, and what things need attention. It is essential that your car be serviced as scheduled to retain its high level of safety, dependability, and emission control performance.

The services and time or kilomet- rage (mileage) intervals shown in the maintenance schedule assume you will use your car as normal transportation for passengers and their possessions. You should:

Avoid exceeding your car's load limit. This puts excess strain on the engine, brakes, and many other parts of your car. The load limit is shown on the label in the glove box.

Operate your car on reasonable roads within the legal speed limit.

Maintenance

Drive your car regularly over a distance of several kilometers (miles).

Always use unleaded gasoline with a pump octane number of 86
or higher.

Your authorized Honda dealer knows your car best, and can provide competent, efficient service. However, service at a dealer is not mandatory to keep your warranties in effect. Mainte- nance may be done by any qualified service facility or person who is skilled in this type of automotive service. Keep all the receipts as proof of completion, and have the person who does the work fill out the maintenance record on page 115 . Check your warranty booklet for more information.

We recommend the use of Genuine Honda parts and fluids or their equivalent whenever you have maintenance done. These are the same high-quality items that went into your car when it was new, so you can be sure they fit and perform flawlessly.

U.S. Cars: Maintenance, replacement or repair of emission control devices and systems may be done by any automotive re- pair establishment or indi- vidual using parts that are "certified" to EPA standards.

Vehicles sold in California have slightly different maintenance requirements. These are noted in the Required Maintenance Sche- dule. Other maintenance operations are required by California regula- tions, and condition the emission warranty.

Main MenuTable of ContentsstR — Replace

I — Inspect After inspection, clean, adjust, repair or replace if necessary.

: Check oil and coolant level at each fuel stop. : Under severe driving conditions, service these items more often.

* 1: For cars sold in California, this service is recommended only: other * 2 : Thereafter, replace every 2 years or 48,000 km (30,000 miles), which-

areas, it is required.

ever comes first.

* 3 : This service is recommended only. * 4 : For cars with Anti-lock brake system (US: EX. Optional for Canadian EX-V) * 5 : For cars with SRS

Main MenuTable of ContentsstR — Replace 1 — Inspect After inspection, clean, adjust, repair or replace if necessary.

Maintenance Schedule

Severe Driving Conditions Items marked drive in these conditions:

or

need service more often if you

A. Repeated short distance driving. B. Dusty conditions. C. Severe cold weather. D. Areas with road salt or other corrosive materials. E. Rough or muddy roads.

page 14

Service for Severe Driving Conditions

— Replace the air cleaner element every 24,000 km (15.000 miles) or 12 months under

condition B or E.

— Replace engine oil and oil filter every 6,000 km (3.750 miles) or 3 months under condition A

or B.

— Inspect front brake discs and calipers, and rear brake discs, calipers and pads every 12,000

km (7,500 miles) or 6 months under condition A, B, D or E.

— Inspect the power steering system every 12,000 km (7500 miles) or 6 months under

condition B, C or E.

Maintenance

Main MenuTable of ContentsstRequired Maintenance Record

Have your servicing dealer record all Required Maintenance below. Keep receipts for all work done on your car.

Maintenance

Main MenuTable of ContentsstRecord additional maintenance for severe driving conditions or non-scheduled maintenance on this page (see page 114 ).

Non-Scheduled Maintenance Record

Maintenance

Main MenuTable of ContentsstYou should check the following items at the specified intervals. If you are unsure of how to perform any check, turn to the page given.

Engine oil level — Check every time you fill the fuel tank. See page 92 .

Engine coolant level — Check the radiator reserve tank every time you fill the fuel tank. See page 93 .

Windshield washer fluid — Check the level in the reservoir monthly. If weather conditions cause you to use the washers frequently, check the reservoir each time you stop for fuel. See page 127.

Automatic transmission — Check the fluid level monthly. See page 128 .

Brakes, clutch and power steering — Check the fluid level monthly. See page 130 .

Periodic Checks

Tires — Check the tire pressure monthly. Examine the tread for wear and foreign objects. See page 142 .

Battery — Check its condition and the terminals for corrosion monthly. See page 136 .

Air conditioning — Check its operation weekly. See page 141.

Lights — Check the operation of the headlights, parking lights, taillights, high-mount brake light, turn signals, brake lights, and license plate lights monthly. See page 148.

Maintenance

Main MenuTable of ContentsstFluid Locations

ANTI-LOCK BRAKE RESERVOIR (Gray cap)

AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID DIPSTICK (Yellow loop)

COOLANT RESERVOIR

Maintenance

BRAKE FLUID (Gray cap)

(5-M/T only) CLUTCH FLUID (Gray cap)

ENGINE OIL FILL CAP

POWER STEERING FLUID (Red cap)

WASHER FLUID (Blue cap)

ENGINE OIL DIPSTICK (Orange loop)

Main MenuTable of ContentsstChecking Engine Oil

DIPSTICK Check the engine oil a couple of minutes after shutting off the engine. This will allow the oil to drain down to the bottom of the engine. Make sure the car is parked on level ground. 1. Pull out the dipstick (orange

loop) and wipe it with a cloth or paper towel.

2. Insert it all the way back in its

tube.

Engine Oil

Adding

ENGINE OIL FILL CAP

UPPER MARK LOWER MARK

3. Pull it out again and look at the

oil level at the end of the dipstick. If it is between the upper and lower marks, the level is correct. Add oil if the level is at or below the lower mark.

To add oil, unscrew and remove the engine oil fill cap on top of the valve cover. Pour in the oil, and replace the engine oil fill cap. Tighten it securely. Wait a few minutes and recheck the oil level. Do not fill above the upper mark; you could damage the engine.

Maintenance

Main MenuTable of ContentsstEngine Oil

Recommended Oil Oil is a major contributor to your engine's performance and longevity. Always use a premium-grade deter- gent oil. You can determine an oil's SAE viscosity and Service Classifi- cation from the API Service label on the oil container. It should look like this:

The numbers in the middle tell you the oil's SAE viscosity or weight. Select the oil for your car accord- ing to this chart:

Ambient Temperature

An oil with a viscosity of 5W-30 is preferred for improved fuel econo- my and year-round protection in your Honda. You may use a 10W-30
oil if the temperature in your area never goes below 20°F (—7°C).

Maintenance

A fuel-efficient oil is recommended for your Honda. This is shown on the API Service label by the words "Energy Conserving II." This oil is formulated to help your engine use less fuel.

The API Service label also tells you the service classification of the oil. Always use an oil that says "API Service SG." This service rating may also include other designations, such as CD. These additional classifications are not a problem, as long as the label also carries the SG classification. An oil that is only classified SF is not recommended.

Additives Your Honda does not need any oil additives. Purchasing additives for the engine or transmission will not increase your car's performance or longevity. It only increases the cost of operating your car.

Main MenuTable of ContentsstOil and Filter Changes Always change the oil and filter according to the time and kilomet- rage (mileage) recommendations in the maintenance schedule. The oil and filter collect contaminants that can damage your engine if they are not removed regularly. Changing the oil and filter requires special tools and access from underneath the car. The car should be raised on a service station-type hydraulic lift for this service. Unless you have the knowledge and proper equipment, you should have this maintenance done by a skilled mechanic.

Repeated, prolonged exposure to used motor oil may cause skin cancer.

Wash your hands thoroughly with strong soap as soon as possible after handling used oil.

1. Run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature, then shut it off.

The oil, engine components and the exhaust system are hot and can burn you.

Use caution and wear protec- tive clothing while working in the engine compartment.

Engine Oil

OIL DRAIN BOLT

WASHER

2. Open the hood and remove the

engine oil fill cap. Remove the oil drain bolt from the bottom of the engine. Drain the oil into an appropriate container.

CONTINUED

Maintenance

Main MenuTable of ContentsstEngine Oil

OIL FILTER

3. Remove the oil filter and let the

remaining oil drain. A special wrench (available from your Honda dealer) is required to remove the filter.

4. Install a new oil filter according to instructions that come with it.

5. Put a new washer on the drain

bolt, then reinstall the drain bolt. Tighten it to: 45 N.m (4.5 kg-m , 33 Ib-ft)

Maintenance

6. Refill the engine with the recom-

mended oil. Engine oil capacity (including filter): 3.3

(3.5 US qt , 2.9 Imp qt)

7. Replace the engine oil fill cap.

Start the engine. The oil pressure indicator light should go out within five seconds. If it does not, turn off the engine and reinspect your work.

8. Let the engine run for several

minutes and check the drain bolt and oil filter for leaks.

9. Turn off the engine, let it sit for several minutes, then check the oil level. If necessary, add oil to bring the level to the upper mark on the dipstick.

NOTICE

If you change your own oil, please dispose of the used oil properly. Put it in a sealed container and take it to a recycling center. Do not discard it in a trash bin or dump it on the ground.

The oil and filter should be chang- ed every 6 months or 12,000 km (7,500 miles), whichever comes first. Under severe driving conditions, they should be changed every 3
months or 6,000 km (3,750 miles). See page 114 for a description of severe driving conditions.

Main MenuTable of ContentsstChecking the Engine Coolant Level

RESERVE TANK

Always use Genuine Honda Anti- freeze/Coolant. The cooling system contains many aluminum compo- nents which can corrode if an improper antifreeze is used. Some antifreeze, even though labeled as safe for aluminum parts, may not provide adequate protection.

MAX

MIN

Check the level of the engine coolant by looking at the radiator reserve tank next to the air cleaner housing. If the level is at or below the MIN line, add coolant to bring it up to the MAX line. This coolant should always be a mixture of 50% antifreeze and 50% water. Never add straight antifreeze or plain water.

Cooling System

Adding Engine Coolant If the reserve tank is completely empty, you should also check the coolant level in the radiator.

Removing the radiator cap while the engine is hot can cause the coolant to spray out, seriously scalding you.

Always let the engine and radiator cool down before removing the radiator cap.

1. Make sure the engine and

radiator are cool.

CONTINUED

Maintenance

Main MenuTable of ContentsstCooling System

RADIATOR CAP

RESERVE TANK

2. Turn the radiator cap counter-

clockwise, without pressing down on it, until it stops. This relieves any pressure remaining in the cooling system.

3. Remove the radiator cap by

pushing down and turning counterclockwise.

4. The coolant level should be up to

the base of the filler neck. Add coolant if it is low.

5. Put the radiator cap back on.

Tighten it fully.

6. Pour coolant into the reserve

tank. Fill it to halfway between the MAX and MIN marks. Put the cap back on the reserve tank.

Maintenance

Do not add any rust inhibitors or other additives to your car's cooling system. They may not be compatible with the coolant or engine components.

Replacing Engine Coolant The cooling system should be completely drained and refilled with new coolant according to the time and kilometrage (mileage) recommendations in the mainte- nance schedule. Only use recom- mended antifreeze.

Draining the coolant requires access to the underside of the car. Unless you have the tools and knowledge, you should have this maintenance done by a skilled mechanic.

Main MenuTable of ContentsstCooling System

DRAIN PLUG

RESERVE TANK

RESERVE TANK CAP

DRAIN BOLT

HOLDER

1. Slide the heater temperature

control lever to maximum heat. Open the hood. Make sure the engine and radiator are cool to the touch.

3. Loosen the drain plug on the

bottom of the radiator. The coolant will drain through the splash guard. Remove the drain bolt from the engine block.

2. Remove the radiator cap.

4. Remove the reserve tank from

its holder by pulling it straight up. Drain the coolant, then put the tank back in its holder.

5. When the coolant stops draining,

tighten the drain plug in the bottom of the radiator. Apply non-hardening sealant to the drain bolt threads and reinstall the bolt in the engine block. Tighten it securely.

CONTINUED

Maintenance

Main MenuTable of ContentsstCooling System

FILLER NECK

BLEEDER BOLT

RESERVE TANK

Fill up to here

6. Mix the recommended antifreeze with an equal amount of purified or distilled water in a clean container. The cooling system capacity is:

(0.95 US gal, 0.79 Imp gal)

With manual transmission: 3.6 With automatic transmission: (US: DX, LX, Canada: LX, EX) 3.5 (US: EX, Canada: EX-V) 3.8

(0.92 US gal, 0.77 Imp gal)

(1.00 US gal, 0.84 Imp gal)

Maintenance

7. Pour coolant into the radiator up

to the base of the filler neck.

radiator cooling fan comes on at least twice).

8. Loosen the bleeder bolt on top of

the engine. Tighten it again when coolant comes out in a steady stream with no bubbles.

10.Turn off the engine. Check the

level in the radiator, add coolant if needed. Install the radiator cap, tighten it fully.

9. Refill the radiator to the base of

the filler neck. Put the cap on the radiator, only tighten it to the first stop. Start the engine and let it run until it warms up (the

11.Fill the reserve tank to the MAX

mark. Install the reserve tank cap.

Main MenuTable of ContentsstCheck the level in the windshield washer reservoir at least monthly during normal usage. In bad weather, when you use the washers often, check the level every time you stop for gas.

The windshield washer reservoir is located behind the left headlight. Check the reservoir's fluid level by removing the cap and looking inside.

Fill the reservoir with a good- quality windshield washer fluid. This increases the cleaning capability and prevents freezing in cold weather.

Windshield Washers

WINDSHIELD WASHER RESERVOIR

Antifreeze can damage your car's paint, while a vinegar/water solution can damage the windshield washer pump.

Use only commercially-available windshield washer fluid.

NOTICE

Do not use engine antifreeze or a vinegar/water solution in the windshield washer reservoir.

Maintenance

Main MenuTable of ContentsstTransmission Oil

Automatic Transmission

DIPSTICK

Check the fluid level with the engine at normal operating tempe- rature.

1. Park the car on level ground.

Shut off the engine.

2. Remove the dipstick (yellow

loop) from the transmission and wipe it with a clean cloth.

Maintenance

5. If the level is below the lower

mark, add fluid into the tube to bring it to the upper mark. Use Honda Premium Formula Automatic Transmission Fluid or an equivalent DEXRON® II Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) only.

6. Insert the dipstick all the way

back in the transmission.

The transmission should be drained and refilled with new fluid every 24
months or 48,000 km (30,000 miles), whichever comes first.

UPPER MARK LOWER MARK

3. Insert the dipstick into the

transmission.

4. Remove the dipstick and check

the fluid level. It should be between the upper and lower marks.

Main MenuTable of Contentsst5-speed Manual Transmission

FILLER BOLT

Correct level

Only use an API Service SF or SG grade motor oil with a viscosity of SAE 10W-30 or 10W-40.

The transmission should be drained and refilled with new oil every 24
months or 48,000 km (30,000 miles), whichever comes first.

Check the oil level a couple of mi- nutes after shutting off the engine. Make sure the car is on level ground. Remove the transmission filler bolt. The oil level should be up to the edge of the bolt hole. Feel inside the bolt hole with your finger. If you do not feel any oil, slowly add oil until it starts to run out of the hole. Reinstall the filler bolt and tighten it securely.

Transmission Oil

Maintenance

Main MenuTable of ContentsstBrake and Clutch Fluid

Brake and Clutch Fluid Check the fluid level in the reser- voirs monthly. There are up to three reservoirs, depending on model. They are:

Brake fluid reservoir (all models) Clutch fluid reservoir (Manual transmission only) ABS reservoir (EX model in U.S., and optional on EX-V model in Canada)

The brake fluid in the brake and Anti-lock brake systems should be replaced every 2 years or 48,000 km (30,000 miles), whichever comes first.

Maintenance

Brake System

MAX

If you add brake fluid to bring it up to the MAX mark, use Genuine Honda Brake Fluid or an equiva- lent from a sealed container that is marked DOT3 or DOT4 only. Brake fluid marked DOT5 is not compatible with your car's braking system.

MIN The fluid should be between the MIN and MAX marks on the side of the reservoir. If the level is at or below the MIN mark, it is an indication that your brake system needs attention. Have the brake system inspected for leaks or worn brake pads.

Main MenuTable of ContentsstAnti-lock Brake System

If the fluid level is half an inch or more above the MAX mark, it may indicate a problem in the ABS. Have your dealer inspect the system as soon as possible.

If you add brake fluid to bring it up to the MAX mark, use the same DOT3 or DOT4 brake fluid from a sealed container specified for the brake system.

The fluid should be between the MIN and MAX marks on the side of the reservoir. If it is at or below the MIN mark, it may indicate a problem in the braking system. Have the dealer inspect your car.

Brake and Clutch Fluid

Clutch System

MAX

MIN

The fluid should be between the MIN and MAX marks on the side of the reservoir. If it is not, add brake fluid to bring it up to that level. Use the same DOT3 or DOT4
brake fluid from a sealed container specified for the brake system.

Low fluid level can indicate a leak in the clutch system. Have this system inspected as soon as possible.

Maintenance

Main MenuTable of ContentsstNOTICE

Using automatic transmission fluid or another brand of power steering fluid will damage the system. Use only GENUINE HONDA Power Steering Fluid-V.

A low power steering fluid level can indicate a leak in the system. Check the fluid level frequently and have the system inspected as soon as possible.

Power Steering

UPPER LEVEL

LOWER LEVEL

You should check the fluid level In the power steering reservoir monthly. Check the level when the engine is cold. Look at the side of the reservoir. The fluid should be between the UPPER LEVEL and LOWER LEVEL. If it is below the LOWER LEVEL, add power steering fluid to the UPPER LEVEL.

Maintenance

Main MenuTable of ContentsstThe air cleaner element should be replaced every 2 years or 48,000 km (30,000 miles), whichever comes first. Under severe driving condi- tions, it should be replaced every 12
months or 24,000 km (15,000 miles), whichever comes first.

Follow the replacement procedure for removal and reinstallation.

Air Cleaner

BOLTS

AIR CLEANER ELEMENT

3. Place the new air cleaner ele-

ment in the air cleaner housing.

4. Reinstall the air cleaner housing

cover, tighten the four bolts.

The air cleaner element is inside the box on the passenger's side of the engine compartment. To replace it:

1. Loosen the four bolts and remove

the air cleaner housing cover.

2. Remove the old air cleaner

element. Clean the inside of the air cleaner housing with a damp rag.

Maintenance

Main MenuTable of ContentsstFuel Filter, Spark Plugs

Fuel Filter The fuel filter should be replaced every 4 years or 96,000 km (60,000
miles), whichever comes first.

Have a qualified technician change the fuel filter. Since the fuel system is under pressure, gasoline can spray out and create a hazard if all fuel line connections are not han- dled correctly.

The filter may require replacement sooner if you happen to buy one or more tankfuls of contaminated gasoline. Have the filter tested or replaced if you suspect it has been clogged by contaminants.

Maintenance

Spark Plugs The original spark plugs in your car need to be replaced every 2
years or 48,000 km (30,000 miles), whichever comes first.

Replacement

SPARK PLUG CAP

1. Clean up any dirt and oil that

have collected around the spark plug caps.

2. Remove the spark plug cap by

pulling it straight out.

3. Remove the spark plug, using a

16 mm (5/8 inch) spark plug socket.

Main MenuTable of ContentsstSpark Plugs

NOTICE

Tighten the spark plugs carefully. A spark plug that is too loose can overheat and damage the engine. Overtightening can cause damage to the threads in the cylinder head.

7. Install the spark plug cap.

8. Repeat this procedure for the

other three spark plugs.

CONTINUED

Maintenance

4. Set the gap on the new spark

plug with a wire-type spark plug gapping tool. Do not use a blade- type feeler gauge. Plug gap should be: 1.1 mm (0.04 in)

5. Put the new spark plug into the

socket, then thread it into the hole. Screw it in by hand so you do not crossthread it.

6. Torque the spark plug. (If you do not have a torque wrench, tight- en the spark plug one-quarter turn after it contacts the cylinder head.) Tightening torque: 18 N.m (1.8 kg-m, 13 Ib-ft)

Main MenuTable of ContentsstSpark Plugs, Battery

Specifications:

(US: DX, LX, Canada: LX, EX) Normal driving conditions

NGK: Nippondenso: K J16CR-L11

ZFR5F-11

Hot climates, or continuous high speed driving

NGK: Nippondenso: KJ20CR-L11

ZFR6F-11

(US: EX, Canada: EX-V) Normal driving conditions

NGK: Nippondenso: KJ16CR-L11

ZFR5J-11

Hot climates, or continuous high speed driving

NGK: Nippondenso: KJ20CR-L11

ZFR6J-11

Maintenance

Battery Check the condition of your car's battery monthly. You should check for proper electrolyte level and corrosion on the terminals.

The battery gives off explo- sive hydrogen gas during nor- mal operation. A spark or open flame can cause the battery to explode with enough force to kill or seriously hurt you.

Keep all sparks, open flames, and smoking materials away from the battery.

Wear protective clothing and a face shield, or have a skilled mechanic do the battery main- tenance.

The battery contains sulfuric acid (electrolyte) which is highly corrosive and poisonous.

Getting electrolyte in your eyes or on your skin can cause serious burns. Wear protective clothing and eye protection when working near the battery.

Swallowing electrolyte can cause fatal poisoning if immedi- ate action is not taken.

KEEP OUT OF THE REACH OF CHILDREN

Main MenuTable of ContentsstEmergency Procedures

TEST INDICATOR WINDOW

Eyes — Flush with water from a cup or other container for at least fifteen minutes. (Water under pressure can damage the eye.) Immediately call a physician or 911.

Skin — Remove contaminated clothing. Flush the skin with large quantities of water. Call a physi- cian immediately.

Swallowing — Drink water or milk. Call your local Poison Control Center or a physician immediately.

Check the battery condition by looking at the test indicator window on the battery. The label on the battery explains the test indicator's colors.

Battery

Check the battery terminals for corrosion (a white or yellowish powder). To remove it, cover the terminals with a solution of baking soda and water. It will bubble up and turn brown. When this stops, wash it off with plain water. Dry off the battery with a cloth or paper towel. Coat the terminals with grease to help prevent future corrosion.

CONTINUED

Maintenance

Main MenuTable of ContentsstNOTICE

Charging the battery with the cables connected can seriously damage your car's electronic controls. Detach the battery cables before connecting the battery to a charger.

If the terminals are severely cor- roded, clean them with baking soda and water. Then use a wrench to loosen and remove the cables from the terminals. Always disconnect the negative ( — ) cable first and reconnect it last. Clean the battery terminals with a terminal cleaning tool or wire brush. Reconnect and tighten the cables, then coat the terminals with grease.

If you need to connect the battery to a charger, disconnect both cables to prevent damage to the car's electrical system.

Battery

Maintenance

Main MenuTable of ContentsstWindshield Wipers

Check the condition of the wind- shield wiper blades at least every six months. Look for signs of crack- ing in the rubber, or areas that are getting hard. Replace the blades if you find these signs, or they leave streaks and unwiped areas when used.

WIPER ARMS

LOCK TAB

To replace:

1. Raise the wiper arm off the

windshield.

2. Disconnect the blade assembly

from the wiper arm by pushing in the lock tab. Hold it in while you push the blade assembly toward the base of the arm.

CONTINUED

Maintenance

Main MenuTable of ContentsstWindshield Wipers

BLADE

BLADE

5. Slide the new wiper blade into the holder until the tabs lock.

6. Slide the blade assembly onto the wiper arm. Make sure it locks in place.

7. Lower the wiper arm down

against the windshield.

3. Remove the blade from its holder by grasping the tabbed end of the blade. Pull firmly until the tabs come out of the holder.

REINFORCEMENT

4. Examine the new wiper blades. If they have no plastic or metal rein- forcement along the back edge, remove the metal reinforcement strips from the old wiper blade and install them in the slots along the edge of the new blade.

Maintenance

Main MenuTable of Contentsstlight spray from a hose or a soft brush to remove them.

NOTICE

The condenser and radiator fins bend easily. Only use a low- pressure spray or soft-bristle brush to clean them.

Run the air conditioning at least once a week during the cold weather months. Run it for at least ten minutes while you are driving at a steady speed with the engine at normal operating temperature. This circulates the lubricating oil contained in the refrigerant.

Your car's air conditioning is a sealed system. Any major mainte- nance, such as recharging, should be done by a qualified technician. There are a couple of things you can do to make sure the air condi- tioning works efficiently.

AIR CONDITIONING CONDENSER

Periodically check the engine's radiator and air conditioning condenser for leaves, insects, and dirt stuck to the front surface. These block the air flow and reduce cooling efficiency. Use a

Air Conditioning

If the air conditioning does not get as cold as before, it is probably because some of the refrigerant has leaked from the system. Have your dealer check the system for leaks and recharge the system with Refrigerant 12 (R-12). Charging quantity: 600 — 650 g (21 — 23 oz)

This system uses SUNISO 5GS refrigerant oil.

NOTICE

Whenever you have the air condi- tioning system serviced, make sure the service facility uses a refrige- rant recycling system. This system captures the refrigerant for reuse. Releasing refrigerant into the at- mosphere can damage the environ- ment.

Maintenance

Main MenuTable of ContentsstEngine Belts, Tires

Engine Belts

ALTERNATOR BELT

If you see signs of wear or loose- ness, have your dealer adjust or replace the belts.

POWER STEERING BELT

Check the condition of the two engine belts. Examine the edges of each belt for cracks or fraying. Check the tension of each belt by pushing on it with your thumb midway between the pulleys. The belts should have the following "play" or deflection.

Alternator belt: 7.0 — 10.5 mm (0.28 — 0.41 in) Power steering belt: 8.0 — 12.0 mm (0.31 — 0.47 in)

Maintenance

Tires Check the inflation and condition of your car's tires at least once a month.

Inflation Check the pressure in the tires when they are cold. This means the car has been parked for at least three hours. If you have to drive the car before checking the tire pressure, the tires can still be considered "cold" if you drive less than 1.6 km (1 mile).

If you check the pressure when the tires are hot (the car has been driven several miles), you will see readings 28 to 41 kPa (0.3 to 0.4
kg/cm2, 4 to 6 psi) higher than the cold reading. This is normal. Do not let air out to match the specified cold pressure. The tire will be underinflated.

Main MenuTable of ContentsstThe correct cold tire pressures are: (US: DX, LX, Canada: LX, EX)

220 kPa (2.2 kg/cm2 , 32 psi)

(US: EX, Canada: EX-V)

200 kPa (2.0 kg/cm2, 29 psi)

Compact spare:

415 kPa (4.15 kg/cm2, 60 psi)

TIRE INFORMATION LABEL

These pressures are also given on the tire information label in the glove box. Remember to check the pressure in the spare tire at the same time.

Tires

You should get your own tire pressure gauge and use it at all times. That makes it easier for you to tell if a pressure loss is caused by a tire problem and not a variation between gauges.

Inspection Every time you check inflation pressures, you should also examine the tires for damage, foreign objects, and wear. You should look for:

Keeping the tires properly inflated provides you with the best combi- nation of riding comfort, handling and tread life. Underinflated tires wear unevenly, reduce your car's handling, and are more likely to fail because of higher temperatures. Overinflated tires make your car ride more harshly, are more prone to damage from road hazards, and wear unevenly.

Bumps or bulges in the tread or side of the tire. Replace the tire if you find either of these condi- tions.

Cuts, splits, or cracks in the side of the tire. Replace the tire if you can see fabric or cord.

Excessive tread wear.

CONTINUED

Maintenance

Main MenuTable of ContentsstTires

INDICATOR LOCATION MARKS

TREAD WEAR INDICATORS

Your car's tires have wear indica- tors molded into the tread. When the tread wears down to that point, you will see a 12.7 mm (1/2 inch) wide band running across the tread. This shows there is less than 1.6
mm (1/16 inch) of tread left on the tire. A tire that is this worn gives very little traction on wet roads. You should replace the tire if you can see the tread wear indicator in three or more places around the tire.

Maintenance

Maintenance In addition to proper inflation, correct wheel alignment helps to decrease tire wear. You should get your car's wheel alignment check- ed every 12 months or 24,000 km (15,000 miles).

The tires were properly balanced by the factory. They may need to be rebalanced at some time before they are worn out. Have your dealer check the tires if you feel a consistent vibration while driving. A tire should always be rebalanced if it is removed from the wheel. Make sure the installer balances the wheels when you have new tires installed. This increases riding comfort and tire life.

Tire Rotation

Front

To help increase tire life and distribute wear more evenly, you should have the tires rotated every 12,000 km (7,500 miles). Move the tires to the positions shown in the chart each time they are rotated.

Main MenuTable of ContentsstReplacing Tires The tires that came with your Honda were selected to match the performance capabilities of the car and provide the best combination of handling, ride comfort, and long life. You should replace them with radial tires of the same size, load range, and speed rating. Mixing radial and bias-ply or bias-belted tires on your car can reduce its braking ability, traction, and steering accuracy. It is best to replace all four tires at the same time. If that is not possi- ble or necessary, then replace the two front tires or the two rear tires as a pair. Replacing just one tire can seriously affect your car's han- dling. If you ever need to replace a wheel, make sure you use an identical style wheel that originally came on your Honda. Replacement wheels are available at your Honda dealer.

Wheels and Tires

Wheel: (US: DX, LX, Canada: LX, EX)

(US: EX, Canada: EX-V)

1 3 x 5J

1 4 x 5J

Tire: (US: DX, LX, Canada: LX, EX)

P175/70R13 82S

(US: EX, Canada: EX-V)

P175/65R 14 81H

DOT Tire Quality Grading (US Cars) The tires on your car meet all U.S. Federal Safety Requirements. All tires are also graded for treadwear, traction, and temperature perform- ance according to Department of Transportation (DOT) standards. The following explains these gradings.

Tires

Treadwear The treadwear grade is a compara- tive rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under con- trolled conditions on a specified government test course. For exam- ple, a tire graded 150 would wear one and one half (1-1/2) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative per- formance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, how- ever, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road character- istics and climate.

CONTINUED

Maintenance

Main MenuTable of ContentsstWarning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading either separately or in combination, can cause heat build-up and possible tire failure.

Tires

Traction The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are A, B, and C, and they represent the tire's ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance.

Warning: The traction grade as- signed to this tire is based on brak- ing (straight ahead) traction tests and does not include cornering (turning) traction.

Temperature The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire's resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law.

Maintenance

Main MenuTable of ContentsstWinter Driving Tires that are marked "M +S" or "All Season" on the sidewall have an all-weather tread design. They should be suitable for most winter driving conditions. Tires without these markings are designed for optimum traction in dry conditions. They may not provide adequate performance in winter driving. For the best performance in snowy or icy conditions, you should install snow tires or tire chains. They may be required by local laws under certain conditions.

Snow Tires If you mount snow tires on your Honda, make sure they are radial tires of the same size and load range as the original tires. Mount snow tires on all four wheels to balance your car's handling in all weather conditions. Keep in mind the traction provided by snow tires on dry roads may not be as high as your car's original-equipment tires. You should drive cautiously even when the roads are clear. Check with the tire dealer for maximum speed recommendations.

Tire Chains Mount snow chains on your car when warranted by driving condi- tions or required by local laws. Make sure the chains are the cor- rect size for your tires. Install them only on the front tires. If metal chains are used, they must be SAE class"S". Cable type traction de- vices can also be used.

Tires

When installing chains, follow the manufacturer's instructions and mount them as tightly as you can. Drive slowly with chains installed. If you hear the chains contacting the body or chassis, stop and tighten them. If they still make contact, slow down until it stops. Remove the chains as soon as you begin driving on cleared roads.

NOTICE

Chains of the wrong size or that are improperly installed can damage your car's brake lines, suspension, body, and wheels. Stop driving if you hear the chains hitting any part of the car.

Maintenance

Main MenuTable of ContentsstLights

Check the operation of your car's exterior lights at least once a month. A burned out bulb can create an unsafe condition by reducing your car's visibility and the ability to signal your intentions to other drivers. Check the following:

Headlights (low and high beam) Parking lights Taillights Brake lights High-mount brake light Turn signals Back-up lights Hazard light function License plate light Side marker lights Daytime running lights (Canadian cars)

If you find any bulbs are burned out, replace them as soon as possi- ble. Refer to the chart on page 187 to determine what type of replacement bulb is needed.

Maintenance

Replacing a Headlight Bulb Your car has halogen headlight bulbs, one on each side. When replacing a bulb, handle it by its steel base and protect the glass from contact with your skin or hard objects. If you touch the glass, clean it with denatured alcohol and a clean cloth.

NOTICE

Halogen headlight bulbs get very hot when lit. Oil, perspiration, or a scratch on the glass can cause the bulb to overheat and shatter.

BULB

COVER

1. Open the hood.

If you need to change the headlight bulb on the passenger's side, remove the air intake tube by pulling it straight up.

2. Remove the electrical connector

from the bulb by squeezing the connector to unlock the tab on each side. Pull the connector straight back.

Main MenuTable of Contentsst3. Remove the rubber weather seal

by pulling on the tab.

4. Unclip the end of the hold-down wire from its slot. Pivot it out of the way and remove the bulb.

5. Insert the new bulb into the hole, making sure the tabs are in their slots. Pivot the hold-down wire back in place and clip the end into the slot.

6. Push the rubber weather seal

over the bulb. Make sure the tab is on the top.

7. Push the electrical connector onto the tabs of the new bulb. Turn on the headlights to test the new bulb.

8. (Passenger's side)

Reinstall the air intake tube.

Lights

Replacing the Front Side Marker/Turn Signal and Parking Light Bulb

SCREW

1. Use a Phillips-head screwdriver

to remove the screw from the top of the fender.

2. Move the side marker light

assembly forward until it slides out of the body.

3. Turn the socket one-quarter turn

counterclockwise to remove it from the lens.

CONTINUED

Maintenance

Main MenuTable of ContentsstLights

4. Remove the bulb by pushing it in

slightly and turning it counter- clockwise.

5. Install the new bulb in the socket.

Turn it clockwise to lock it in place.

6. Insert the socket back into the lens. Turn it clockwise to lock it in place.

7. Turn on the parking lights to

make sure the new bulb works.

8. To reinstall the light assembly in

the fender, line up the guide on the assembly with the metal tab next to the headlight and line up the fingers on the light assembly with the holes in the fender. Push the light assembly straight back.

9. Install the mounting screw and

tighten it securely.

Maintenance

Replacing Rear Bulbs (in Fenders)

LOCK TABS

COVER

1. Open the trunk.

2. Remove the cover from the

inside of the taillight assembly by pushing on the tab.

3. Determine which of the three

bulbs is burned out: tail/stoplight, turn signal, or side marker. Remove the socket for that bulb by turning it counterclockwise.

4. To remove either the tail/

stoplight bulb or the turn signal bulb, push it in slightly and turn it counterclockwise. To remove the side marker bulb, pull it straight out of the socket.

5. Install the new bulb in the socket.

Insert the socket back in the taillight assembly and turn it clockwise to lock it in place.

6. Test the new bulb. Reinstall the

cover over the taillight assembly.

Main MenuTable of ContentsstReplacing Rear Bulbs (in Trunk Lid)

1. Open the trunk.

2. Remove the electrical connector from its hold-down dip by sliding it sideways toward the center of the car.

3. Use a Phillips-head screwdriver to remove the two screws from the bulb holder. Remove the holder from the taillight assem- bly.

4. Try the taillights and back-up

lights to verify which bulb needs replacing. Remove that bulb from the socket by pushing it in slightly and turning it counter- clockwise.

5. Install the new bulb in the socket.

Test it to make sure it works.

6. Reinstall the bulb holder assem-

bly. Install the two screws and tighten them securely.

Lights

High-mount Brake Light

1. Open the trunk and remove the socket from the light assembly by turning it one-quarter turn counterclockwise.

2. Remove the bulb by turning it one-quarter turn counterclock- wise.

3. Install the new bulb and reinstall

the socket. Make sure the new bulb is working.

Maintenance

Main MenuTable of ContentsstLights

Replacing a Rear License Bulb

1. Remove the two screws and

remove the lens.

2. Pull the bulb straight out of its