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driven several miles), you will see readings 4 to 6 psi (0.3 to 0.4 kg/cm2, 28 to 41 kPa) higher than the cold reading. This is normal. Do not let air out to match the specified cold pressure. The tire will be underinflated.


The correct cold tire pressures are:


DX


32 psi (2.2 kg/cm2,220 kPa)


U.S.: EX, EX with option package Canada: Si


29 psi (2.0 kg/cm2,200 kPa)


Compact spare


60 psi (4.15 kg/cm2,415 kPa)


Main MenuTable of Contentsst TIRE INFORMATION LABEL- U.S.:EX with option package.


Keeping the tires properly inflated provides you with the best combi- nation of riding comfort, handling and tread life. Underinflated tires wear unevenly, reduce you car's handling, and are more likely to fail because of higher temperatures. Overinflated tires make your car ride more harshly, are more prone to damage from road hazards, and wear unevenly.


TIRE INFORMATION LABEL - DX,EX, Si


These pressures are also given on the tire information label in the glove box. Remember to check the pressure in the spare tire at the same time.


You should get your own tire pressure gauge and use it at all times. That makes it easier for you to tell if a pressure loss is caused by a tire problem and not a variation between gauges.


Tires


Inspection Every time you check inflation, you should also examine the tires for damage, foreign objects, and wear.


You should look for:


Bumps or bulges in the tread or side of the tire. Replace the tire if you find either of these conditions. Cuts, splits, or cracks in the side of the tire. Replace the tire if you can see fabric or cord.


Excessive tread wear.


Maintenance


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Tires


INDICATOR LOCATION MARKS


TREAD WEAR INDICATORS


Your car's tires have wear indicators molded into the tread. When the tread wears down to that point, you will see a 1/2 inch (12.7 mm) wide band running across the tread. This shows there is less than 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) of tread left on the tire. A tire that is this worn gives very little traction on wet roads. You should replace the tire if you can see the tread wear indicator in three or more places around the tire.


Maintenance


Maintenance In addition to proper inflation, correct wheel alignment helps to decrease tire wear. You should get your car's wheel alignment check- ed every 12 months or 15,000
miles (24,000 km).


The tires were properly balanced by the factory. They may need to be rebalanced at some time before they are worn out. Have your dealer check the tires if you feel a consistent vibration while driving. A tire should always be rebalanced if it is removed from the wheel. Make sure the installer balances the wheels when you have new tires installed. This increases riding comfort and tire life.


Tire Rotation


FRONT


To help increase tire life and distribute wear more evenly, you should have the tires rotated every 7,500 miles (12,000 km). Move the tires to the positions shown in the chart each time they are rotated.


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Replacing Tires The tires that came with your Honda were selected to match the performance capabilities of the car and provide the best combination of handling, ride comfort, and long life. You should replace them with radial tires of the same size, load range, and speed rating. Mixing ra- dial and bias-ply or bias-belted tires on your car can reduce its braking ability, traction, and steer- ing accuracy. It is best to replace all four tires at the same time. If that is not possible or necessary, then replace the two front tires or the two rear tires as a pair. Replacing just one tire can seriously affect your car's handling. If you ever need to replace a wheel, make sure you use the same style of wheel that originally came on your Honda. Replacement wheels are available at your Honda dealer.


Wheels and Tires Wheel:


DX


13 x 5J


U.S.: EX, EX with option package Canada: Si 14 x 5J


Tire: DX


P 175/70 R13


U.S.: EX, EX with option package Canada: Si


P 185/60 R14


DOT Tire Quality Grading (U.S. Cars) The tires on your car meet all U.S. Federal Safety Requirements. All tires are also graded for treadwear, traction, and temperature performance according to Department of Transportation


Tires


(DOT) standards. The following explains these gradings.


Treadwear The treadwear grade is a compara- tive rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under con- trolled conditions on a specified government test course. For ex- ample, a tire graded 150 would wear one and one half (1-1/2) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative per- formance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart signifi- cantly from the norm due to varia- tions in driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and climate.


Maintenance


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat build-up and possible tire failure.


Tires


Traction The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are A, B, and C, and they represent the tire's ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance.


Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on braking (straight ahead) traction tests and does not include cornering (turning) traction.


Maintenance


Temperature The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire's resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law.


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Winter Driving Tires that are marked "M + S" or "All Season" on the sidewall have an all-weather tread design. They should be suitable for most winter driving conditions. Tires without these markings are designed for optimum traction in dry conditions. They may not provide adequate performance in winter driving. For the best performance in snowy or icy conditions, you should install snow tires or tire chains. They may be required by local laws under certain conditions.


Snow Tires If you mount snow tires on your Honda, make sure they are radial tires of the same size and load range as the original tires. Mount snow tires on all four wheels to balance your car's handling in all weather conditions. Keep in mind the traction provided by snow tires on dry roads may not be as high as your car's original equipment tires. You should drive cautiously even when the roads are clear. Check with the tire dealer for maximum speed recommendations.


Tire Chains Mount snow chains on your car when warranted by driving conditions or required by local laws. Make sure the chains are the correct size for your tires. Install them only on the front tires. If metal chains are used, they must be SAE class "S." Cable type traction devices can also be used.


Tires


When installing chains, follow the manufacturer's instructions and mount them as tightly as you can. Drive slowly with chains installed. If you hear the chains contacting the body or chassis, stop and tighten them. If they still make contact, slow down until it stops. Remove the chains as soon as you begin driving on cleared roads.


NOTICE Chains of the wrong size or that are improperly installed can damage your car's brake lines, suspension, body, and wheels. Stop driving if you hear the chains hitting any part of the car.


Maintenance


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Lights


Check the operation of your car's exterior lights at least once a month. A burned out bulb can create an unsafe condition by reducing your car's visibility and the ability to signal your intentions to other drivers. Check the following:


Headlights (low and high beam). Parking lights. Taillights. Brake lights. Turn signals. Back-up lights. Hazard light function. License plate light. Side marker lights.


If you find any bulbs are burned out, replace them as soon as possible. Refer to the chart on page 179 to determine what type of replacement bulb is needed.


Maintenance


Replacing a Headlight Bulb Your car has halogen headlight bulbs, one on each side. When replacing a bulb, handle it by its steel base and protect the glass from contact with your skin or hard objects. If you touch the glass, clean it with denatured alcohol and a clean cloth.


NOTICE Halogen headlight bulbs get very hot when lit. Oil, perspiration, or a scratch on the glass can cause the bulb to overheat and shatter.


BULB


1. Open the hood. If you need to change the headlight bulb on the passenger's side, remove the air intake tube by pulling it straight up.


2. Remove the electrical connec- tor from the bulb by squeezing the connector to unlock the tab on each side. Pull the connec- tor straight back.


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Replacing the Front Side Marker/Turn Signal and Parking Light Bulb


SCREW


1. Use a Phillips® head screw- driver to remove the screw from the top of the fender.


3. Remove the rubber weather


seal by pulling on the tab.


4. Unclip the end of the


hold-down wire from its slot. Pivot it out of the way and remove the bulb.


5. Insert the new bulb into the


hole, making sure the tabs are in their slots. Pivot the hold-down wire back in place and clip the end into the slot.


6. Push the rubber weather seal over the bulb. Make sure the tab is on the top.


7. Push the electrical connector onto the tabs of the new bulb. Turn on the headlights to test the new bulb.


8. (Passenger's side)


Reinstall the air intake tube.


Lights


2. Move the side marker light


assembly forward until it slides out of the body.


3. Turn the socket one-quarter


turn counterclockwise to remove it from the lens.


continued


Maintenance


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Lights


4. Remove the bulb by pushing it


in slightly and turning it counterclockwise.


5. Install the new bulb in the


socket. Turn it clockwise to lock it in place.


6. Insert the socket back into the lens. Turn it clockwise to lock it in place.


7. Turn on the parking lights to


make sure the new bulb works. 8. To reinstall the light assembly in the fender, line up the guide on the assembly with the metal tab next to the headlight and line up the fingers on the light assembly with the holes in the fender. Push the light assembly straight back.


9. Install the mounting screw and


tighten it securely.


Maintenance


Replacing Rear Bulbs (in Fenders)


LOCK TABS


5.


4. To remove either the


tail/stoplight bulb or the turn signal bulb, push it in slightly and turn it counterclockwise. To remove the side marker bulb, pull it straight out of the socket. Install the new bulb in the socket. Insert the socket back in the taillight assembly and turn it clockwise to lock it in place.


6. Test the new bulb. Reinstall the


cover over the taillight assembly.


COVER


1. Open the trunk. 2. Remove the cover from the


inside of the taillight assembly by pushing on the tab.


3. Determine which of the three


bulbs is burned out: tail/stoplight, turn signal, or side marker. Remove the socket for that bulb by turning it counterclockwise.


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Replacing Rear Bulbs (in Trunk Lid)


1. Open the trunk. 2. Remove the electrical


connector from its hold-down clip by sliding it sideways toward the center of the car.


3. Use a Phillips® head screw-


driver to remove the two screws from the bulb holder. Remove the holder from the taillight as- sembly.


4. Try the taillights and back-up


lights to verify which bulb needs replacing. Remove that bulb from the socket by pushing it in slightly and turning it counterclockwise.


5. Install the new bulb in the


socket. Test it to make sure it works.


6. Reinstall the bulb holder assembly. Install the two screws and tighten them securely.


Lights


High-Mount Brake Light


1. Open the trunk and remove the socket from the light assembly by turning it one-quarter turn counterclockwise.


2. Remove the bulb by turning it one-quarter turn counterclock- wise.


3. Install the new bulb and


reinstall the socket. Make sure the new bulb is working.


Maintenance


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Lights


Replacing a Rear License Bulb


3. Turn on the parking lights and


check that the new bulb is working.


4. Reinstall the lens. Reinstall the


two screws and tighten them securely.


Replacing Interior and Trunk Light Bulbs


INTERIOR LIGHT


1. Remove the two screws and


remove the lens.


2. Pull the bulb straight out of its


socket. Push the new bulb in until it bottoms in the socket.


Maintenance


1. Remove the lens by carefully prying on the edge of the lens in the middle with a fingernail file or a small flat-tip screwdriv- er. Do not pry on the edge of the housing around the lens.


Main MenuTable of Contentsst TRUNK LIGHT


2. Remove the bulb by pulling it straight out of its metal tabs.


3. Push the new bulb into the


metal tabs. Snap the Jens back in place.


Lights


Maintenance


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Storing Your Car


If you need to park your car for an extended period (more than 1
month), there are several things you should do to prepare it for storage. Proper preparation helps prevent deterioration and makes it easier to get your car back on the road. It is best to store your car indoors if at all possible.


Fill the fuel tank. Change the engine oil and filter (see page 111). Wash and dry the exterior completely. Clean the interior. Make sure the carpeting, floor mats, etc. are completely dry. Leave the parking brake off. Put the transmission in Reverse (5-speed manual) or Park (automatic).


Maintenance


If you store your ear for 12 months or longer, have your Honda dealer perform the inspections called for in the 24 months/30,000 miles (48,000 km) maintenance schedule as soon as you take it out of storage (see page 104). The replacements called for in the maintenance schedule are not needed unless the car has actually reached that time or mileage.


Block the rear wheels. If the car is to be stored for a longer period, it should be supported on jackstands so the tires are off the ground. Leave one window open slightly (if the car is being stored indoors). Disconnect the battery. Cover the car with a "breathable" car cover, one made from a porous material such as cotton. Nonporous materials, such as plastic sheeting, trap moisture which can damage the paint. If possible, run the engine for a while periodically (preferably once a month).


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Regular cleaning and polishing of your Honda helps to keep it "new" looking. This section gives you hints on how to clean and preserve your car's appearance: the paint, brightwork, wheels and interior. Also included are several things you can do to help prevent corrosion.


Appearance Care


Exterior Care . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 148
Washing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 148
Waxing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 149
Paint Touch-up . . . . . . . . . .. 149
Interior C a r e . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 151
Carpeting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 151
Fabric . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 151
Vinyl . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 151
Seat Belts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 151
Windows . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 152
Air Fresheners . . . . . . . . . .. 152
Corrosion Protection . . . . . . .. 152
Body Repairs . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 153


Appearance Care


Main Menust Exterior Care


Washing Frequent washing helps preserve your car's beauty. Dirt and grit can scratch the paint, while tree sap and bird droppings can permanently ruin the finish.


Wash your car in a shady area, not in direct sunlight. If the car is parked in the sun, move it into the shade and let the exterior cool down before you start.


NOTICE Chemical solvents and strong cleaners can damage the paint, metal and plastic on your car. Only use the solvents and cleaners recommended in this Owner's Manual.


Appearance Care


When you have washed and rinsed the whole exterior, dry it with a chamois or soft towel. Letting it air-dry will cause dulling and water spots.


As you dry the car, inspect it for chips and scratches that could allow corrosion to start. Repair them with touch-up paint (see page 149).


Rinse the car thoroughly with cool water to remove loose dirt. Fill a bucket with cool water. Mix in a mild detergent, such as dishwashing liquid or a product made especially for car washing. Wash the car, using the water and detergent solution and a soft-bristle brush, sponge or soft cloth. Start at the top and work your way down. Rinse frequently.


Check the body for road tar, tree sap, etc. Remove these stains with tar remover or turpentine. Rinse it off immediately so it does not harm the finish. Remember to rewax these areas, even if the rest of the car does not need waxing.


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Waxing Always wash and dry the whole car before waxing it. You should wax your car, including the metal trim, whenever water sits on the surface in large patches. It should form into beads or droplets after waxing.


You should use a quality liquid or paste wax. Apply it according to the instructions on the container. In general, there are two types of products:


Waxes — A wax coats the finish and protects it from damage by exposure to sunlight, air pollution, etc. You should use a wax on your Honda when it is new.


Polishes — Polishes and cleaner/ waxes can restore the shine to paint that has oxidized and lost some of its shine. They normally contain mild abrasives and solvents that remove the top layer of the finish. You should use a polish on your Honda if the finish does not have its original shine after using a wax.


Cleaning tar, insects, etc. with removers also takes off the wax. Remember to re-wax those areas, even if the rest of the car does not need waxing.


Exterior Care


Paint Touch-up Your dealer has touch-up paint to match your car's color. The color code is printed on a sticker on the driver's doorjamb. Take this code to your dealer so you are sure to get the correct color.


Appearance Care


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Examine the chip or scratch closely before repairing it. If it does not go down to bare metal, clean it with soap and water and apply the touch-up paint. If it does go to the metal, apply a coat of primer first. After this dries, apply the touch-up paint. Build up the paint in the damaged area to the level of the surrounding paint. Several thin coats of paint are better than one thick coat.


Exterior Care


TOUCH-UP PAINT


Inspect your car for chipped or scratched paint every time you wash it. Repair it as soon as possible to prevent corrosion. Use the touch-up paint on small chips and scratches. More extensive damage should be repaired by a professional.


Appearance Care


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Vinyl Remove dirt and dust with a vacuum cleaner. Wipe the vinyl with a soft cloth dampened in a solution of mild soap and water. Use the same solution with a soft- bristle brush on more difficult spots. You can also use commercially-available spray or foam-type vinyl cleaners.


Seat Belts If your seat belts get dirty, you can use a soft brush to clean them with a mixture of mild soap and warm water. Do not use bleach, dye, or cleaning solvents. They can weaken the belt material. Let the belts air-dry before you use the car.


Carpeting Vacuum the carpeting frequently to remove dirt. Ground-in dirt will make the carpet wear out faster. Periodically shampoo the carpet to keep it looking new. Use one of the foam-type carpet cleaners on the market: Follow the instructions that come with the cleaner, applying it with a sponge or soft brush. Keep the carpeting as dry as possible by not adding water to the foam.


Fabric Vacuum dirt and dust out of the material frequently. For general cleaning, use a solution of mild soap and lukewarm water, letting it air dry. To clean off stubborn spots, use a commercially- available fabric cleaner. Test it on a hidden area of the fabric first, to make sure it does not bleach or stain the fabric. Follow the instructions that come with the cleaner.


Interior Care


METAL LOOP


Dirt build-up in the metal loops of the seat belt anchors can cause the belts to retract slowly. Wipe the inside of the loops with a clean cloth dampened in mild soap and warm water or isopropyl alcohol.


Appearance Care


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Interior Care, Corrosion Protection


Windows Clean the windows, inside and out, with a commercially-available glass cleaner. You can also use a mixture of one part white vinegar to ten parts water. This will remove the haze that builds up on the inside of the windows. Use a soft cloth or paper towels to clean all glass and clear plastic surfaces.


NOTICE The rear window defogger wires are bonded to the inside of the glass. Wiping vigorously up and down can dislodge and break the defogger wires. When cleaning the rear window, use gentle pressure and wipe side to side.


Appearance Care


Air Fresheners If you want to use an air freshener/ deodorizer in the interior of your Civic, it is best to use a solid type. Some liquid air fresheners contain chemicals that may cause parts of the interior trim and fabric to crack or discolor.


If you use a liquid air freshener, make sure you fasten it securely so it does not spill as you drive.


Corrosion Protection Two factors normally contribute to causing corrosion in your car: 1. Moisture trapped in body


cavities. Dirt and road salt that collects in hollows on the underside of the car stays damp, promoting corrosion in that area.


2. Removal of paint and protective


coatings from the exterior and underside of the car.


Many corrosion-preventive measures are built into your Honda. You can help keep your car from corroding by performing some simple periodic maintenance:


Repair chips and scratches in the paint as soon as you discover them.


Inspect and clean out the drain holes in the bottom of the doors and body.


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Corrosion Protection, Body Repairs


Check the floor coverings for dampness. Carpeting and floor mats may remain damp for a long time, especially in winter. This dampness can eventually cause the floor panels to corrode.


Use a high-pressure spray to clean the underside of your car. This is especially important in areas that use road salt in winter. It is also a good idea in humid climates and areas sub- ject to salt air.


Have the corrosion-preventive coatings on the underside of your car inspected and repaired periodically.


Body Repairs Body repairs affect your car's resis- tance to corrosion. If your car needs repairs after a collision, pay close attention to the parts used in the repair and the quality of the work.


Make sure the repair facility uses genuine Honda replacement body parts. Some companies make sheetmetal pieces that seem to duplicate the original Honda body parts, but are actually inferior in fit, finish, and quality. Once installed, they do not give the same high-quality appearance and level of corrosion resistance.


When reporting your collision to the insurance company, tell them you want genuine Honda parts used in the repair. Although most insurers recognize the higher quality of original parts, some may try to specify that the repairs be done with the "lowest cost" parts available. You should investigate this before any repairs are begun.


Take your car to your authorized Honda dealer for inspection after the repairs are completed. He can make sure that quality materials were used, and that corrosion- preventive coatings were applied to all repaired and replaced parts.


Appearance Care


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Taking Care of the Unexpected


This section covers the more common problems that motorists experience with their cars. It gives you information about how to safely evaluate the problem and what to do to correct it. If the problem has stranded you on the side of the road, you may be able to get going again. If not, you will also find instructions on getting your car towed.


Compact Spare Tire . . . . . . . .. 156
Changing a Flat Tire . . . . . . . .. 157
If Your Engine Won't Start . . .. 162
Nothing Happens . . . . . . . .. 162
The Starter Operates


Normally . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 163
Jump Starting . . . . . . . . . . .. 163
If Your Engine Overheats . . . .. 165
Low Oil Pressure L i g h t . . . . . .. 167
Charging System Indication .. 168
Malfunction Indicator Lamp


(Check Engine Light) . . . . .. 169
Closing the Moonroof . . . . . .. 170
Fuses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 171
Checking and Replacing . .. 172
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 174


Towing


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Main Menust Compact Spare Tire


Your car has a compact spare tire that takes up less space. Use this spare tire as a temporary replace- ment only. Get your regular tire repaired or replaced and put back on your car as soon as you can.


Check the inflation of the compact spare tire every time you check the other tires. It should be inflated to: 60 psi (4.15 kg/cm2,415 kPa).


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Follow these precautions whenever you are using the compact spare tire:


INDICATOR LOCATION MARK


Do not exceed 50 mph (80 km/h) under any circumstances.


This tire gives a harsher ride and less traction on some road surfaces than the regular tire. Use greater caution while driving on this tire.


Do not mount snow chains on the compact spare. The wheel of the compact spare tire is designed especially to fit your car. Do not use your spare tire on another car unless it is the same make and model.


TREAD WEAR INDICATOR BAR


The compact spare tire has a shorter tread life than a regular tire. Replace it when you can see the tread wear indicator bars. The replacement should be the same size and design tire, mounted on the same wheel. The compact spare tire is not designed to be mounted on a regular wheel, and the compact wheel is not designed for mounting a regular tire.


Main MenuTable of Contentsst If you have a flat tire while driving, stop in a safe place to change it. Stopping in traffic or on the shoulder of a busy road is dangerous. Drive slowly along the shoulder until you get to an exit or an area to stop that is far away from the traffic lanes.


The car can easily roll off the jack, seriously injuring anyone underneath. Follow for changing a tire exactly, and never get under the car when it is supported only by the jack.


the directions


1. Park the car on firm, level ground


away from traffic. Turn on the hazard warning lights and turn the ignition to LOCK (0).


Changing a Flat Tire


SPARE TIRE


TRUNK FLOOR


JACK


TOOL KIT


JACK


2. Put the transmission in Park


(automatic) or Reverse (5-speed). Set the parking brake. 3. Open the trunk. Raise the trunk


floor by lifting up on the back edge.


4. Take the tool kit out of the trunk. 5. Unscrew the wing bolt and take


the spare tire out of the trunk.


6. Turn the jack's end bracket


counterclockwise to loosen it, then remove the jack.


continued


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Changing a Flat Tire


JACKING POINT


8. Locate the jacking point


nearest the tire you need to change. It is pointed to by an arrow molded into the under- side of the body. Place the jack under the jacking point. Turn the end bracket clockwise until the top of the jack contacts the jacking point. Make sure the jacking point tab is resting in the jack notch.


7. Loosen the four wheel nuts 1/2


turn with the wheel wrench.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


EXTENSION


WHEEL WRENCH


9. Use the extension and wheel wrench as shown to raise the car until the flat tire is off the ground.


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Changing a Flat Tire


BRAKE HUB


10. Remove the wheel nuts and flat tire. Temporarily place the flat tire on the ground.


11. Before mounting the spare tire, wipe any dirt off the mounting surface of the wheel and hub with a cloth.


12. Put on the spare tire. Put the


wheel nuts back on finger- tight, then tighten them in a crisscross pattern with the wheel wrench until the wheel is firmly against the hub. Do not try to tighten them fully.


continued


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Changing a Flat Tire


WING BOLT


SPACER CONE


13. Lower the car to the ground


and remove the jack.


14. Tighten the wheel nuts


securely in the same crisscross pattern. Have the wheel nut torque checked at the nearest automotive service facility. Tighten the wheel nuts to: 110 N.m (11 kg-m, 80 Ib-ft).


15. Remove the wheel cover or center cap. Place the flat tire face down in the trunk well.


16. Remove the spacer cone from the wing bolt, turn it over, and put it back on the bolt.


17. Secure the flat tire by screwing the wing bolt back into its hole.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Changing a Flat Tire


18. Store the jack in the trunk with


the end bracket on the left side. Turn the jack's end bracket to lock it in place. Store the tool kit.


19. Store the wheel cover or center


cap in the trunk.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Main MenuTable of Contentsst If Your Engine Won't Start


Diagnosing why your engine won't start falls into two areas, depending on what you hear when you turn the key to START (III): You hear nothing, or almost nothing. The engine's starter motor does not operate at all, or operates very slowly.


You can hear the starter motor operating normally, but the engine does not start up and run.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Nothing Happens or the Starter Motor Operates Very Slowly When you turn the ignition switch to START (III), you do not hear the normal noise of the engine trying to start. You may hear a clicking sound or series of clicks, or nothing at all. Check these things:


Check the transmission interlock. If you have a 5-speed, the clutch pedal must be pushed all the way to the floor or the starter will not operate. With an automatic transmission, it must be in Park or Neutral. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). Turn on the headlights and check their brightness. If the headlights are very dim or don't light at all, the battery is discharged. See Jump Starting on page 163.


Turn the ignition switch to START (HI). If the headlights do not dim, check the condition of the fuses. If the fuses are OK, there is prob- ably something wrong with the electrical circuit for the ignition switch or starter motor. You will need a qualified technician to determine the problem. (See Towing on page 174.)


If the headlights dim noticeably or go out when you try to start the engine, either the battery is discharged or the connections are corroded. Check the condition of the battery and terminal connections (see page 129). You can then try jump starting the car from a booster battery (see page 163).


Main MenuTable of Contentsst If Your Engine Won't Start, Jump Starting


The Starter Operates Normally In this case, the starter motor sounds normal when you turn the ignition switch to START (III), but the engine does not run.


Are you using the proper starting procedure? Refer to Starting the Engine on page 91. Do you have gas? Turn the ignition switch to ON (II) for a minute and watch the fuel gauge. There may be an electrical problem, such as no power to the fuel pump. Check all the fuses (see page 171).


If you find nothing wrong, you will need a qualified technician to find the problem. See Towing on page 174.


Jump Starting If your car's battery has run down, you may be able to start the engine by using a booster battery. Although this seems like a simple procedure, there are several precautions you should take. Follow the directions closely.


A battery can explode if you do not follow the correct proce- dure, seriously injuring anyone nearby. Keep all sparks, open flames, and smoking materials away from the battery.


You cannot start a Honda with an automatic transmission by pushing or pulling it.


To jump start your car: 1. Open the hood and check the


physical condition of the battery (see page 126 ). In very cold weather, check the condition of the electrolyte. If it seems slushy or like ice, do not try jump starting until it thaws.


NOTICE If a battery sits in extreme cold, the electrolyte inside can freeze. Attempting to jump start with a frozen battery can cause it to rupture or explode.


2. Turn off all the electrical


accessories: heater, A/C, stereo system, lights, etc. Put the transmission in Neutral or Park and set the parking brake.


continued


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Jump Starting


3. Connect one jumper cable to


the positive (+) terminal on the booster battery. Connect the other end to the positive terminal on your Honda's battery.


4. Connect the second jumper


cable to the negative (-) terminal on the booster battery. Connect the other end to the grounding strap as shown. Do not connect this jumper cable to any other part of the engine.


5. If the booster battery is in


another car, have an assistant start that car and run it at a fast idle.


BOOSTER BATTERY


6. Start your car. If the starter motor


still operates slowly, check the jumper cable connections to make sure they have good metal-to-metal contact.


7. Once your car is running,


disconnect the negative cable from your car, then from the booster battery. Disconnect the positive cable from your car, then the booster battery.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Main MenuTable of Contentsst The pointer of your car's temperature gauge should stay in the midrange under most conditions. It may go higher if you are driving up a long steep hill on a very hot day. If it climbs to the red mark, you should determine the reason.


NOTICE Driving with the temperature gauge pointer at the red mark can cause serious damage to your engine.


Your car can overheat for several reasons, such as lack of coolant or a mechanical problem. The only indication may be the temperature gauge climbing to or above the red mark. Or you may see steam or spray coming from under the hood. In either case, you should take immediate action.


Steam and spray from an over- heated engine can seriously scald you. Do not open the hood if steam is coming out.


If Your Engine Overheats


3.


2.


1. Safely pull to the side of the road. Put the transmission in Neutral or Park and set the parking brake. Turn off the climate control and all other accessories. Turn on the hazard warning indicators. If you see steam and/or spray coming from under the hood, turn off the engine. If you do not see steam or spray, leave the engine running and watch the temperature gauge. If the high heat is due to overloading (climbing a long, steep hill on a hot day with the A/C running, for example), the engine should start to cool down almost immediately. If it does, wait until the temperature gauge comes down to the midpoint then continue driving.


continued


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Main MenuTable of Contentsst If Your Engine Overheats


4. If the temperature gauge stays at the red mark, turn off the engine. 5. Wait until you see no more signs


of steam or spray, then open the hood.


6. Look for any obvious


coolant leaks, such as a split radiator hose. Everything is still extremely hot, so use caution. If you find a leak, it must be repaired before you continue driving (see Towing on page 174).


7. If you don't find an obvious leak,


check the coolant level in the radiator reserve tank (see page 115). If the level is below the MIN mark, add coolant to half- way between the MIN and MAX marks.


8. If there was no coolant in the


reserve tank, you may also have to add coolant to the radiator.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Let the engine cool down until the pointer reaches the middle of the temperature gauge, or lower, before checking the radiator


Removing the radiator cap while the engine is hot can cause the coolant to spray out, seriously scalding you. Always let the engine and radiator cool down before removing the radiator cap.


9. Using gloves or a large heavy


cloth, turn the radiator cap counterclockwise, without pushing down, to the first stop. This releases any remaining pressure in the cooling system. After the pressure releases, push down on the cap and turn it until it comes off.


10. Start the engine and set the


heater control lever to maximum. Add coolant to the radiator up to the base of the fill neck. If you do not have the proper coolant mixture available, you can add plain water. Remember to have the cooling system drained and refilled with the proper mixture as soon as you can.


11. Put the radiator cap back on


tightly. Run the engine and watch the temperature gauge. If it goes back to the red mark, the engine needs repair. (See Towing on page 174.)


12. If the temperature stays


normal, check the coolant level in the radiator reserve tank. If it has gone down, add coolant to the MAX mark. Put the cap back on tightly.


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Low Oil Pressure Light


3. If necessary, add oil to bring the level back to the full mark on the dipstick (see page 111). 4. Start the engine and watch the


oil pressure light. If the light does not go out within 10
seconds, turn off the engine. There is a mechanical problem that needs to be repaired before you can continue driving. (See Towing on page 174.)


LOW OIL PRESSURE LIGHT


The low oil pressure light should never come on when the engine is running. If this light conies on with the engine running, take immediate action.


NOTICE Running the engine with low oil pressure can cause serious mechanical damage almost immediately. Turn off the engine as soon as you can safely get the car stopped. 1. Safely pull off the road and


shut off the engine.


2. Let the car sit for a minute.


Open the hood and check the oil level (see page 111). Although oil level and oil pressure are not directly connected, an engine that is very low on oil can lose pressure during cornering and other driving maneuvers.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Immediately turn off all electrical accessories: radio, heater, A/C, rear defogger, cruise control, etc. Try not to use other electrically- operated controls such as the power windows. Keep the engine running and take extra care not to stall it. Starting the engine will discharge the battery rapidly.


By eliminating as much of the electrical load as possible, you can drive several miles before the battery is too discharged to keep the engine running. Drive to a service station or garage where you can get technical assistance.


Charging System Indication


CHARGING SYSTEM LIGHT


The charging system light should go out after the engine starts. If it comes on brightly with the engine running, the alternator is no longer charging the battery.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Main MenuTable of Contentsst MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP*


If this indicator comes on while driving, there is a problem with your engine or its emission control systems. Even though you may feel no difference in your car's performance, it can reduce your fuel economy and cause your car to put out excessive emissions. Continued operation may cause serious damage. * The U.S. instrument panel is shown. Differences for the Cana- dian model are noted in the text.


Malfunction Indicator Lamp


NOTICE If you keep driving with the malfunction indicator lamp/check engine light on, you can damage your car's emission controls and engine. Those repairs may not be covered by your car's warranties.


If this indicator comes on safely pull off the road and turn off the engine. Restart the engine and watch the indicator. If it stays on, have your car checked by the dealer as soon as possible. Drive moderately until the dealer has inspected the problem. Avoid full-throttle acceleration and driving at high speed.


You should also have the dealer inspect your car if the indicator comes on frequently, even though it goes off when you follow the above procedure.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Closing the Moonroof


If the electric motor will not close the moonroof, do the following: 1. Check the fuse for the


moonroof motor (see page 171). If the fuse is blown, replace it with one of the same or lower rating.


2. Try closing the moonroof. If the new fuse blows immediately or the moonroof motor still does not operate, you can close the moonroof manually.


3. Get the tool kit out of the trunk.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


ROUND PLUG


4. Use a screwdriver or coin to


remove the round plug between the sun visors.


5. Insert the moonroof wrench


into the socket behind this plug. Turn the wrench until the moonroof is fully closed.


6. Remove the wrench. Replace


the round plug.


Main MenuTable of Contentsst All the electrical circuits in your car have fuses to protect them from a short circuit or overload. These fuses are located in two fuse boxes.


UNDER- HOOD


Fuses


INTERIOR


The underhood fuse box is located in the engine compartment next to the battery. To open, push the tab as shown.


The interior fuse box is underneath the dashboard on the driver's side. Remove the fuse box lid by swinging the lid down and pulling it straight out of its hinges.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Main MenuTable of Contentsst FUSE PULLER


BLOWN


3. Check each of the large fuses in


the underhood fuse box by looking through the top at the wire inside. Removing these fuses requires a Phillips head screwdriver.


4. Check the smaller fuses in the underhood fuse box and all the fuses in the interior fuse box by pulling out each fuse with the fuse puller provided in the interior fuse box.


Fuses


Checking and Replacing If something electrical in your car stops working, the first thing you should check for is a blown fuse. Determine from the chart on the fuse box cover or inside the fuse box which fuse or fuses control that component. Check those fuses first, but check all the fuses before deciding that is not the cause. Replace any blown fuses and check the component's operation.


1. Turn the ignition switch to


LOCK (0). Make sure the headlights and all other accessories are off.


2. Remove the cover from the


fuse box.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Main MenuTable of Contentsst BLOWN


If you replace the burned out fuse with a spare fuse that has a lower rating, it might blow out again. This does not indicate anything wrong. Replace the fuse with one of the correct rating as soon as you can.


5. Look for a burned wire inside


the fuse. If it is burned out, replace it with one of the spare fuses of the same rating or lower.


If you cannot drive the car without fixing the problem, and you do not have a spare fuse, take a fuse of the same rating or a lower rating from one of the other circuits. Make sure you can do without that circuit temporarily (such as the cigarette lighter or radio).


Fuses


NOTICE Replacing a fuse with one that has a higher rating greatly increases the chances of damaging the electrical system. If you do not have a replacement fuse with the proper rating for the circuit, install one with a lower rating. 6. If the replacement fuse of the


same rating burns out in a short time, there is probably a serious electrical problem in your car. Leave the burned out fuse in that circuit and have your car checked by a qualified technician.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Towing


If your car needs to be towed, call a professional towing service or, if you belong to one, an organization that provides roadside assistance. Never tow your car behind another car with just a rope or chain. It is very dangerous.


Emergency Towing There are three popular methods of towing a car:


Flat-bed Equipment - The operator loads your car on the back of a truck. This is the best way of transporting your Honda.


Wheel Lift Equipment - The tow truck uses two pivoting arms that go under the tires (front or rear) and lift them off the ground. The other two wheels remain on the ground.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Sling-type Equipment - The tow truck uses metal cables with hooks on the ends. These hooks go around parts of the frame or suspension and the cables lift that end of the car off the ground. Your car's suspension and body can be seriously damaged if this method of towing is attempted. If your Honda cannot be trans- ported by a flat-bed truck, it should be towed with the front wheels off the ground. If, due to damage, your car must be towed with the front wheels on the ground, do the following: 5-Speed Manual Transmission Release the parking brake. Shift the transmission to Neutral.


Automatic Transmission


Release the parking brake. Start the engine. Shift to D4, then to N. Turn off the engine.


NOTICE Improper towing preparation will damage the transmission. Follow the above procedure exactly. If you cannot shift the transmission or start the engine (automatic transmission), your car must be transported on a flat-bed.


It is best to tow the car no farther than 50 miles (80 km), and keep the speed below 35 mph (55 km/h).


NOTICE


Trying to lift or tow your car by the bumpers will cause serious damage. The bumpers are not designed to support the car's weight.


Main MenuTable of Contentsst The diagrams in this section give you the dimensions and capacities of your Honda, and the locations of the identification numbers. The explanations of several electronic and mechanical systems on your Honda are for the more technically-oriented owner.


Technical Information


Identification Numbers . . . . .. 176
Specifications . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 178
Supplemental Restraint


System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 180
Emission Controls . . . . . . . . . .. 181
The Clean Air Act . . . . . . . .. 181
Crankcase Emission


Control System . . . . . . . .. 181


Evaporative Emission


Control System . . . . . . . .. 181
Exhaust Emission Controls . 182
PGM-FI System . . . . . . . .. 182
Ignition Timing


Control System . . . . . .. 182


Three-way Catalytic


Converter . . . . . . . . . .. 182
Replacement Parts . . . .. 182


Three-way Catalytic


C o n v e r t e r . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 183


Technical Information


Main Menust Identification Numbers


Your car has several identifying numbers located in various places.


The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) is the 17-digit number your Honda dealer uses to register your car for warranty purposes. It is also necessary for licensing and insuring your car. The easiest place to find the VIN is on a plate fastened to the top of the dashboard. You can see it by looking through the windshield on the driver's side. It is also on the Certification label attached to the driver's doorjamb, and is stamped on the engine compart- ment bulkhead. The VIN is also provided in bar code on the Certification Label.


Technical Information


VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION NUMBER


CERTIFICATION LABEL


Main MenuTable of Contentsst The Engine Number is stamped into the engine block.


The Transmission Number is on a label on top of the transmission.


TRANSMISSION NUMBER


Identification Numbers


ENGINE NUMBER


Technical Information


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Specifications


*1:DX * 2: US: EX, EX w/option pkg., Canada: Si


page 126.


Technical Information


* 1: Including the coolant in the reserve tank and that remaining in the engine.


(0.11 US gal, 0.09 Imp gal)


Reserve tank capacity: 0.4 *2: DX *3: US: EX, EX w/option pkg., Canada: Si *4: Excluding the oil remaining in the engine.


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Specifications


* 1: DX * 2: US: EX, EX w/option pkg., Canada: Si


Technical Information


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Supplemental Restraint System


The Honda Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) is standard on all Civic 2-doors sold in the U.S. and Canada. The SRS includes the steering wheel airbag assembly, sensors in the dashboard, and a control unit with sensors behind the center console.


US. EX with option package. Your car also has a dashboard- mounted airbag assembly for the front seat passenger.


The sensors are decelerometers, set to trigger in a severe frontal impact that generates more force than a 25 mile per hour crash into a parked vehicle of similar weight. For the SRS to activate, one or both dash sensors and one or both control unit sensors must activate. This duplication is to prevent accidental activation.


When the control unit receives trigger signals from at least two sensors, it sends voltage to the airbag. The control unit stores this charge in capacitors to insure reliability even if a severe impact damages the car's battery or electrical connections.


The electrical charge sent to the airbag assembly ignites its propellant, which burns instantaneously. The gas produced by the burning propellant inflates the airbag instantly.


The airbag is vented so it stays inflated for only an instant and does not block the driver's vision. Smoke from the burned propellant comes out of the airbag and into the car's interior. This is normal and does not mean there is a fire. The airbag collapses onto the driver's lap.


The airbag unit can inflate only one time. After use, your Honda dealer must check the complete Supplemental Restraint System and replace the airbag assembly.


To ensure long-term reliability, the SRS uses gold-plated electrical connections throughout. Exposed components are sealed with epoxy. The control unit monitors the SRS circuitry whenever the ignition is ON (II). If the control unit senses any faults, it turns on the SRS indicator light on the instrument panel. Take the car to your Honda dealer to diagnose and repair the system as soon as possible.


The SRS needs no regular maintenance other than an inspection by your Honda dealer 10 years after manufacture.


Technical Information


Main MenuTable of Contentsst The burning of gasoline in your car's engine produces several by- products. Some of these are carbon monoxide (CO), oxides of nitrogen (NOx), and hydrocarbons (HC). Gasoline evaporating from the tank also produces hydrocarbons. Controlling the production of NOx, CO, and HC is important to the environment. Under certain conditions of sunlight and climate, NOx and HC react to form photochemical "smog." Carbon monoxide does not contribute to smog creation, but it is a poisonous gas.


The Clean Air Act The Clean Air Act* sets standards for automobile emissions. It also requires that automobile manufacturers explain to owners how their emission controls work and what to do to maintain them. This section summarizes how the emission controls work. Scheduled maintenance is on page 104.


* In Canada, Honda vehicles comply with the Canadian Motor Vehicle Safety Standards (CMVSS) for Emissions valid at the time they are manufactured.


Emission Controls


Crankcase Emission Control System Your car has a Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) System. This keeps gasses that build up in the engine's crankcase from going into the atmosphere. The PCV valve routes them from the crankcase back to the intake manifold. They are then drawn into the engine and burned.


Evaporative Emission Control System As fuel evaporates in the fuel tank, an evaporative emission control canister filled with charcoal adsorbs the vapor. It is stored in this canister while the engine is off. After the engine is started and warmed up, the vapor is drawn into the engine and burned during driving.


Technical Information


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Ignition Timing Control System This system constantly adjusts the ignition timing, reducing the amount of HC, CO and NOx produced.


Three-way Catalytic Converter The Three-way Catalytic Converter is in the exhaust system. Through chemical reactions, it converts HC, CO, and NOx in the engine's exhaust to carbon dioxide (CO2), dinitrogen (N2), and water vapor.


Replacement Parts The emission control systems are designed and certified to work together in reducing emissions to levels that comply with the Clean Air Act. To make sure the emissions remain low, you should use only new genuine Honda replacement parts or their equivalent for repairs. Using lower quality parts may increase the emissions from your car.


The emissions control systems are covered by warranties separate from the rest of your car. Read your warranty manual for more information.


Emission Controls


Exhaust Emission Controls The exhaust emission controls include three systems: PGM-FI, Ignition Timing Control, and Three-way Catalytic Converter. These three systems work together to control the engine's combustion and minimize the amount of HC, CO, and NOx that comes out the tailpipe. The exhaust emission control systems are separate from the crankcase and evaporative emission control systems.


PGM-FI System The PGM-FI System on this model is a sequential multiport fuel injection. The PGM-FI System on your car has three sub systems: Air Intake, Engine Control, and Fuel Control: The Engine Control Module (ECM) uses various sensors to determine how much air is going into the engine. It then controls how much fuel to inject under all operating conditions.


Technical Information


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Three-way Catalytic Converter


The Three-way Catalytic Converter contains platinum and rhodium. These metals serve as catalysts, promoting chemical reactions to convert the exhaust gasses without affecting the metals. The catalytic converter is referred to as a three-way catalyst, since it acts on HC, CO, and NOx. A re- placement unit must be an original Honda part or its equivalent.


The Three-way Catalytic Converter must operate at a high temperature for the chemical reactions to take place. It can set on fire any combustible materials that come near it. Park your car away from high grass, dry leaves, or other flammables.


THREE-WAY CATALYTIC CONVERTER


A defective catalytic converter contributes to air pollution, and can impair your engine's performance. Follow these, guidelines to protect your car's Three-way Catalytic Converter.


Always use unleaded gasoline. Even a small amount of leaded gasoline can contaminate the catalyst metals, making the converter ineffective.


Keep the engine tuned-up. Have your car diagnosed and repaired if it is misfiring, back- firing, continuing to run after you turn off the engine, stalling, or otherwise not running properly.


Technical Information


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Warranty and Customer Relations


Warranty Coverages . . . . . . . .. 186
Customer Relations


Information . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 187
U.S. Zone Office Map . . . . . . .. 188
Canada Zone Office Map . . . .. 189
Authorized Manuals . . . . . . . .. 191


Warranty and Customer Relations


Main Menust Warranty Coverages


U.S. Cars Your new Honda is covered by these warranties:


New Car Limited Warranty — provides coverage for defects in materials and workmanship for 3 years or 36,000 miles.


Emission Control Systems Defects Warranty and Emissions Performance Warranty — these two warranties cover your car's emission control systems. Time, mileage, and coverage are conditional. Please read the warranty manual for exact information.


Original Equipment Battery Limited Warranty — provides coverage for 36 months, with 100% coverage for the first 24 months.


Seat Belt Limited Warranty — A seat belt that fails to function


properly is covered for the useful life of the car.


Rust Perforation Limited Warranty — body panels that rust through from the inside will be repaired or replaced for up to 36
months. There is no mileage limit.


Accessory Limited Warranty — Genuine Honda Accessories are covered under this warranty. Time and mileage limits depend on the type of accessory and other factors. Please read your warranty manual for details.


Replacement Parts Limited Warranty — provides coverage for defects in materials and workman- ship for 12 months or 12,000 miles.


Replacement Battery Limited Warranty — provides coverage for up to 36 months, with 100% coverage for the first 12 months.


Replacement Muffler Lifetime Limited Warranty - provides coverage for as long as the purchaser of the muffler owns the car.


There are restrictions and exclu- sions which apply to all these war- ranties. Please read the 1993
Honda Warranties booklet that came with your car for precise in- formation on warranty coverages. Your Honda's original tires are cov- ered by their manufacturer. Tire warranty information is in a separate booklet.


Canada Cars Please refer to the 1993 Warranty and Maintenance Guide that came with your car.


Warranty and Customer Relations


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Customer Relations Information


Honda dealership personnel are trained professionals. They should be able to answer all your questions. If you encounter a problem that your dealership does not solve to your satisfaction, please discuss it with the dealership's management. The Service Manager or General Manager can help. Almost all problems are solved in this way.


If you are dissatisfied with the decision made by the dealership's management, contact your Honda Customer Relations Zone Office. Refer to the U.S. and Canadian Zone Office maps on the following pages.


When you call or write, please give us this information:


Vehicle Identification Number (see page 176).

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