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action — steering around the problem. The vehicle can perform very well in emergencies like these. First apply the brakes. See Braking on page 5-3.


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It is better to remove as much speed as possible from a collision. Then steer around the problem, to the left or right depending on the space available.


Off-Road Recovery The vehicle’s right wheels can drop off the edge of a road onto the shoulder while driving.


An emergency like this requires close attention and a quick decision. If holding the steering wheel at the recommended 9 and 3 o’clock positions, it can be turned a full 180 degrees very quickly without removing either hand. But you have to act fast, steer quickly, and just as quickly straighten the wheel once you have avoided the object. The fact that such emergency situations are always possible is a good reason to practice defensive driving at all times and wear safety belts properly.


5-8


If the level of the shoulder is only slightly below the pavement, recovery should be fairly easy. Ease off the accelerator and then, if there is nothing in the way, steer so that the vehicle straddles the edge of the pavement. Turn the steering wheel 8 to 13 cm (3 to 5 inches), about one-eighth turn, until the right front tire contacts the pavement edge. Then turn the steering wheel to go straight down the roadway.


Passing Passing another vehicle on a two-lane road can be dangerous. To reduce the risk of danger while passing: • Look down the road, to the sides, and to crossroads for situations that might affect a successful pass. If in doubt, wait.


• Watch for traffic signs, pavement markings, and lines that could indicate a turn or an intersection. Never cross a solid or double-solid line on your side of the lane.


• Do not get too close to the vehicle you want to


pass. Doing so can reduce your visibility.


• Wait your turn to pass a slow vehicle. • When you are being passed, ease to the right.


Loss of Control Let us review what driving experts say about what happens when the three control systems — brakes, steering, and acceleration — do not have enough friction where the tires meet the road to do what the driver has asked. In any emergency, do not give up. Keep trying to steer and constantly seek an escape route or area of less danger.


Skidding In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle. Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking reasonable care suited to existing conditions, and by not overdriving those conditions. But skids are always possible. The three types of skids correspond to the vehicle’s three control systems. In the braking skid, the wheels are not rolling. In the steering or cornering skid, too much speed or steering in a curve causes tires to slip and lose cornering force. And in the acceleration skid, too much throttle causes the driving wheels to spin. If the vehicle starts to slide, ease your foot off the accelerator pedal and quickly steer the way you want the vehicle to go. If you start steering quickly enough, the vehicle could straighten out. Always be ready for a second skid if it occurs. Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice, gravel, or other material is on the road. For safety, slow down and adjust your driving to these conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery surfaces because stopping distance is longer and vehicle control more limited. While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try your best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration, or braking, including reducing vehicle speed by shifting to a lower gear. Any sudden changes could cause the tires to slide. You might not realize the surface is


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• Watch for animals. • When tired, pull off the road. • Do not wear sunglasses. • Avoid staring directly into approaching headlamps. • Keep the windshield and all glass on your vehicle


clean — inside and out.


• Keep your eyes moving, especially during turns or


curves.


No one can see as well at night as in the daytime. But, as we get older, these differences increase. A 50-year-old driver might need at least twice as much light to see the same thing at night as a 20-year-old.


slippery until the vehicle is skidding. Learn to recognize warning clues — such as enough water, ice, or packed snow on the road to make a mirrored surface — and slow down when you have any doubt. Remember: Any Antilock Brake System (ABS) helps avoid only the braking skid.


Driving at Night Night driving is more dangerous than day driving because some drivers are likely to be impaired — by alcohol or drugs, with night vision problems, or by fatigue. Night driving tips include: • Drive defensively. • Do not drink and drive. • Reduce headlamp glare by adjusting the inside


rearview mirror.


• Slow down and keep more space between you and other vehicles because headlamps can only light up so much road ahead.


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Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads Rain and wet roads can reduce vehicle traction and affect your ability to stop and accelerate. Always drive slower in these types of driving conditions and avoid driving through large puddles and deep-standing or flowing water.


{ WARNING:


Wet brakes can cause crashes. They might not work as well in a quick stop and could cause pulling to one side. You could lose control of the vehicle. After driving through a large puddle of water or a car/vehicle wash, lightly apply the brake pedal until the brakes work normally. Flowing or rushing water creates strong forces. Driving through flowing water could cause your vehicle to be carried away. If this happens, you and other vehicle occupants could drown. Do not ignore police warnings and be very cautious about trying to drive through flowing water.


Hydroplaning Hydroplaning is dangerous. Water can build up under your vehicle’s tires so they actually ride on the water. This can happen if the road is wet enough and you are going fast enough. When your vehicle is hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road. There is no hard and fast rule about hydroplaning. The best advice is to slow down when the road is wet. Other Rainy Weather Tips Besides slowing down, other wet weather driving tips include: • Allow extra following distance. • Pass with caution. • Keep windshield wiping equipment in good shape. • Keep the windshield washer fluid reservoir filled. • Have good tires with proper tread depth. See Tires


on page 6-55.


• Turn off cruise control.


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Before Leaving on a Long Trip To prepare your vehicle for a long trip, consider having it serviced by your dealer/retailer before departing. Things to check on your own include: • Windshield Washer Fluid: Reservoir full? Windows


clean — inside and outside?


• Wiper Blades: In good shape? • Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: All levels checked? • Lamps: Do they all work and are lenses clean? • Tires: Are treads good? Are tires inflated to


recommended pressure?


• Weather and Maps: Safe to travel?


Have up-to-date maps?


Highway Hypnosis Always be alert and pay attention to your surroundings while driving. If you become tired or sleepy, find a safe place to park your vehicle and rest. Other driving tips include: • Keep the vehicle well ventilated. • Keep interior temperature cool. • Keep your eyes moving — scan the road ahead


and to the sides.


• Check the rearview mirror and vehicle instruments


often.


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Hill and Mountain Roads Driving on steep hills or through mountains is different than driving on flat or rolling terrain. Tips for driving in these conditions include: • Keep the vehicle serviced and in good shape. • Check all fluid levels and brakes, tires, cooling


system, and transmission.


• Going down steep or long hills, shift to a


lower gear.


{ WARNING:


If you do not shift down, the brakes could get so hot that they would not work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Shift down to let the engine assist the brakes on a steep downhill slope.


{ WARNING:


Coasting downhill in N (Neutral) or with the ignition off is dangerous. The brakes will have to do all the work of slowing down and they could get so hot that they would not work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Always have the engine running and the vehicle in gear when going downhill.


• Stay in your own lane. Do not swing wide or cut


across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let you stay in your own lane.


• Top of hills: Be alert — something could be in your


lane (stalled car, accident).


• Pay attention to special road signs (falling rocks


area, winding roads, long grades, passing or no-passing zones) and take appropriate action.


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Winter Driving Driving on Snow or Ice Drive carefully when there is snow or ice between the tires and the road, creating less traction or grip. Wet ice can occur at about 0°C (32°F) when freezing rain begins to fall, resulting in even less traction. Avoid driving on wet ice or in freezing rain until roads can be treated with salt or sand. Drive with caution, whatever the condition. Accelerate gently so traction is not lost. Accelerating too quickly causes the wheels to spin and makes the surface under the tires slick, so there is even less traction. Try not to break the fragile traction. If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and polish the surface under the tires even more. The Antilock Brake System (ABS) on page 5-4 improves vehicle stability during hard stops on a slippery roads, but apply the brakes sooner than when on dry pavement. Allow greater following distance on any slippery road and watch for slippery spots. Icy patches can occur on otherwise clear roads in shaded areas. The surface of a curve or an overpass can remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. Avoid sudden steering maneuvers and braking while on ice. Turn off cruise control, if equipped, on slippery surfaces.


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Blizzard Conditions Being stuck in snow can be in a serious situation. Stay with the vehicle unless there is help nearby. If possible, use the Roadside Assistance Program on page 8-6. To get help and keep everyone in the vehicle safe: • Turn on the Hazard Warning Flashers on page 4-3. • Tie a red cloth to an outside mirror.


{ WARNING:


Snow can trap engine exhaust under the vehicle. This may cause exhaust gases to get inside. Engine exhaust contains carbon monoxide (CO) which cannot be seen or smelled. It can cause unconsciousness and even death. If the vehicle is stuck in the snow:


• Clear away snow from around the base of your


vehicle, especially any that is blocking the exhaust pipe and/or the fuel operated heater exhaust system, if equipped. If the vehicle has a diesel engine and a fuel operated heater, see “Fuel Operated Heater (FOH)” in the diesel engine supplement.


WARNING:


(Continued)


WARNING:


(Continued)


• Check again from time to time to be sure


snow does not collect there.


• Open a window about 5 cm (two inches) on the side of the vehicle that is away from the wind to bring in fresh air.


• Fully open the air outlets on or under the


instrument panel.


• Adjust the Climate Control system to a setting


that circulates the air inside the vehicle and set the fan speed to the highest setting. See Climate Control System in the Index.


For more information about carbon monoxide, see Engine Exhaust on page 3-38. Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you. You cannot see it or smell it, so you might not know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking the exhaust.


Run the engine for short periods only as needed to keep warm, but be careful. To save fuel, run the engine for only short periods as needed to warm the vehicle and then shut the engine off and close the window most of the way to save heat. Repeat this until help arrives but only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. Moving about to keep warm also helps. If it takes some time for help to arrive, now and then when you run the engine, push the accelerator pedal slightly so the engine runs faster than the idle speed. This keeps the battery charged to restart the vehicle and to signal for help with the headlamps. Do this as little as possible to save fuel.


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Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out Turn the steering wheel left and right to clear the area around the front wheels. Turn off any traction or stability system. Shift back and forth between R (Reverse) and a forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible. To prevent transmission wear, wait until the wheels stop spinning before shifting gears. Release the accelerator pedal while shifting, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear. Slowly spinning the wheels in the forward and reverse directions causes a rocking motion that could free the vehicle. If that does not get the vehicle out after a few tries, it might need to be towed out. If the vehicle does need to be towed out, see Towing Your Vehicle on page 5-22.


If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand, Mud, Ice, or Snow Slowly and cautiously spin the wheels to free the vehicle when stuck in sand, mud, ice, or snow. See Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out on page 5-16. If the vehicle has a traction system, it can often help to free a stuck vehicle. Refer to the vehicle’s traction system in the Index. If stuck too severely for the traction system to free the vehicle, turn the traction system off and use the rocking method.


{ WARNING:


If the vehicle’s tires spin at high speed, they can explode, and you or others could be injured. The vehicle can overheat, causing an engine compartment fire or other damage. Spin the wheels as little as possible and avoid going above 55 km/h (35 mph) as shown on the speedometer.


For information about using tire chains on the vehicle, see Tire Chains on page 6-78.


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Loading the Vehicle It is very important to know how much weight your vehicle can carry. This weight is called the vehicle capacity weight and includes the weight of all occupants, cargo, and all nonfactory-installed options. Two labels on your vehicle show how much weight it was designed to carry, the Tire and Loading Information label and the Certification/Tire label.


{ WARNING:


Do not load the vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on the vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of the vehicle.


Tire and Loading Information Label


Label Example


A vehicle specific Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the center pillar (B-pillar). With the driver door open, you will find the label attached below the door lock post (striker). The tire and loading information label shows the number of occupant seating positions (A), and the maximum vehicle capacity weight (B) in kilograms and pounds.


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The Tire and Loading Information label also shows the size of the original equipment tires (C) and the recommended cold tire inflation pressures (D). For more information on tires and inflation see Tires on page 6-55 and Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 6-63. There is also important loading information on the vehicle Certification/Tire label. It tells you the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) and the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for the front and rear axle. See “Certification/Tire Label” later in this section. Steps for Determining Correct Load Limit 1. Locate the statement “The combined weight


of occupants and cargo should never exceed XXX kg or XXX lbs” on your vehicle’s placard.


2. Determine the combined weight of the driver


and passengers that will be riding in your vehicle.


3. Subtract the combined weight of the driver and passengers from XXX kg or XXX lbs.


4. The resulting figure equals the available


amount of cargo and luggage load capacity. For example, if the “XXX” amount equals 1400 lbs and there will be five 150 lb passengers in your vehicle, the amount of available cargo and luggage load capacity is 650 lbs (1400 − 750 (5 x 150) = 650 lbs). 5. Determine the combined weight of luggage and cargo being loaded on the vehicle. That weight may not safely exceed the available cargo and luggage load capacity calculated in Step 4.


6. If your vehicle will be towing a trailer, the load


from your trailer will be transferred to your vehicle. Consult this manual to determine how this reduces the available cargo and luggage load capacity of your vehicle. See Towing a Trailer on page 5-26 for important information on towing a trailer, towing safety rules and trailering tips.


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Example 1


Example 2


Item


Description Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 1 = Subtract Occupant Weight 150 lbs (68 kg) × 2 = Available Occupant and Cargo Weight =


Total


Item


1,000 lbs (453 kg)


300 lbs (136 kg)


700 lbs (317 kg)


Description Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 2 = Subtract Occupant Weight 150 lbs (68 kg) × 5 = Available Cargo Weight =


Total


1,000 lbs (453 kg)


750 lbs (136 kg)


250 lbs (113 kg)


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Refer to your vehicle’s tire and loading information label for specific information about your vehicle’s capacity weight and seating positions. The combined weight of the driver, passengers, and cargo should never exceed your vehicle’s capacity weight. Certification/Tire Label


A vehicle specific Certification/Tire label is found on the rear edge of the driver door. The label shows the size of your vehicle’s original tires and the inflation pressures needed to obtain the gross weight capacity of your vehicle.


Example 3


Item


Description Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 3 = Subtract Occupant Weight 200 lbs (91 kg) × 5 = Available Cargo Weight =


Total


1,000 lbs (453 kg)


1000 lbs (453 kg)


0 lbs (0 kg)


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This is called Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel, and cargo. The Certification/Tire label also tells you the maximum weights for the front and rear axles, called Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). To find out the actual loads on your front and rear axles, you need to go to a weigh station and weigh your vehicle. Your dealer can help you with this. Be sure to spread out your load equally on both sides of the centerline. Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle, or the GAWR for either the front or rear axle. If there is a heavy load, it should be spread out.


{ WARNING:


Do not load the vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on the vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of the vehicle.


{ WARNING:


Things you put inside your vehicle can strike and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or in a crash.


• Put things in the cargo area of your


vehicle. Try to spread the weight evenly.


• Never stack heavier things, like


suitcases, inside the vehicle so that some of them are above the tops of the seats. • Do not leave an unsecured child restraint


in your vehicle.


• When you carry something inside the vehicle, secure it whenever you can.


• Do not leave a seat folded down unless


you need to.


Add-On Equipment When you carry removable items, you may need to put a limit on how many people you carry inside your vehicle. Be sure to weigh your vehicle before you buy and install the new equipment.


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Here are some important things to consider before recreational vehicle towing: • What is the towing capacity of the towing vehicle?


Be sure to read the tow vehicle manufacturer’s recommendations.


• What is the distance that will be travelled? Some


vehicles have restrictions on how far and how long they can tow.


• Is the proper towing equipment going to be used?


See your dealer/retailer or trailering professional for additional advice and equipment recommendations.


• Is the vehicle ready to be towed? Just as preparing the vehicle for a long trip, make sure the vehicle is prepared to be towed. See Before Leaving on a Long Trip on page 5-12.


Towing


Towing Your Vehicle To avoid damage, the disabled vehicle should be towed with all four wheels off the ground. Consult your dealer/retailer or a professional towing service if the disabled vehicle must be towed. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 8-6. To tow the vehicle behind another vehicle for recreational purposes, such as behind a motorhome, see “Recreational Vehicle Towing” following.


Recreational Vehicle Towing Recreational vehicle towing means towing the vehicle behind another vehicle – such as behind a motorhome. The two most common types of recreational vehicle towing are known as dinghy towing and dolly towing. Dinghy towing is towing the vehicle with all four wheels on the ground. Dolly towing is towing the vehicle with two wheels on the ground and two wheels up on a device known as a dolly.


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Dinghy Towing


If the vehicle is towed with all four wheels


Two-Wheel-Drive Vehicles Notice: on the ground, the drivetrain components could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Do not tow the vehicle with all four wheels on the ground. Two-wheel-drive vehicles should not be towed with all four wheels on the ground. Two-wheel-drive transmissions have no provisions for internal lubrication while being towed.


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All-Wheel-Drive Vehicles The vehicle was not designed to be towed with all four wheels on the ground. To properly tow these vehicles, they should be placed on a platform trailer with all four wheels off the ground. Notice: Towing an all-wheel-drive vehicle with all four wheels on the ground, or even with only two of its wheels on the ground, will damage drivetrain components. Do not tow an all-wheel-drive vehicle with any of its wheels on the ground.


Dolly Towing Rear Towing (Rear Wheels Off the Ground) Two-Wheel-Drive Vehicles


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Use the following procedure to tow the vehicle from the rear: 1. Attach the dolly to the tow vehicle following the


dolly manufacturer’s instructions.


All-Wheel-Drive Vehicles


2. Drive the rear wheels onto the dolly. 3. Firmly set the parking brake. See Parking Brake on


page 3-35 for more information. 4. Put the transmission in P (Park). 5. Secure the vehicle to the dolly following the


manufacturer’s instructions.


6. Use an adequate clamping device designed for


towing to ensure that the front wheels are locked into the straight position.


7. Turn the ignition to LOCK/OFF.


If the tow vehicle will not be started or driven for six weeks or more, remove the battery cable from the negative terminal (post) of the battery to prevent the battery from draining while towing.


The vehicle was not designed to be towed with two wheels on the ground. To properly tow these vehicles, they should be placed on a platform trailer with all four wheels off the ground. Notice: Towing an all-wheel-drive vehicle with all four wheels on the ground, or even with only two of its wheels on the ground, will damage drivetrain components. Do not tow an all-wheel-drive vehicle with any of its wheels on the ground.


5-25


Towing a Trailer If the vehicle has a diesel engine, see the DURAMAX® Diesel manual for more information.


{ WARNING:


The driver can lose control when pulling a trailer if the correct equipment is not used or the vehicle is not driven properly. For example, if the trailer is too heavy, the brakes may not work well — or even at all. The driver and passengers could be seriously injured. The vehicle may also be damaged; the resulting repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Pull a trailer only if all the steps in this section have been followed. Ask your dealer/retailer for advice and information about towing a trailer with the vehicle.


Notice: Pulling a trailer improperly can damage the vehicle and result in costly repairs not covered by the vehicle warranty. To pull a trailer correctly, follow the advice in this section and see your dealer/retailer for important information about towing a trailer with the vehicle. To identify the trailering capacity of the vehicle, read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this section. Trailering is different than just driving the vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, acceleration, braking, durability and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly. The following information has many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before pulling a trailer.


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Pulling A Trailer Here are some important points: • There are many different laws, including speed limit restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure the rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you will be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police.


• Consider using a sway control. See “Hitches” later


in this section.


• Do not tow a trailer at all during the first 500 miles


(800 km) the new vehicle is driven. The engine, axle or other parts could be damaged.


• Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that a


trailer is towed, do not drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and do not make starts at full throttle. This helps the engine and other parts of the vehicle wear in at the heavier loads.


• Vehicles with an automatic transmissions can tow in


D (Drive). Shift the transmission to a lower gear if the transmission shifts too often under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions.


Three important considerations have to do with weight: • The weight of the trailer • The weight of the trailer tongue • The weight on the vehicle’s tires Also see Tow/Haul later in this section for information about the Tow/Haul button and the Tow/Haul indicator light. Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It depends on how the rig is used. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much the vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. It can depend on any special equipment on the vehicle, and the amount of tongue weight the vehicle can carry. See “Weight of the Trailer Tongue” later in this section for more information. Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming only the driver is in the tow vehicle and it has all the required trailering equipment. The weight of additional optional equipment, passengers and cargo in the tow vehicle must be subtracted from the maximum trailer weight.


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Use the following chart to determine how much the vehicle can weigh, based upon the vehicle model and options.


Vehicle G1500 Cargo Van 2WD


4.3L V6


5.3L V8


H1500 Cargo Van AWD


5.3L V8


G1500 Passenger Van 2WD


5.3L V8


H1500 Passenger Van AWD


5.3L V8


Axle Ratio


Maximum Trailer Weight


GCWR*


3.42
3.42
3.73


3.42


3.73


3.73


4,400 lbs (1 996 kg)


6,700 lbs (3 039 kg)


9,500 lbs (4 309 kg)


12,000 lbs (5 443 kg)


6,500 lbs (2 948 kg)


12,000 lbs (5 443 kg)


6,200 lbs (2 812 kg)


12,000 lbs (5 443 kg)


6,000 lbs (2 722 kg)


12,000 lbs (5 443 kg)


G2500 Cargo Van 2WD Short Wheelbase


4.8L V8


6.0L V8


3.73
4.10
3.73
4.10


G2500 Cargo Van 2WD Long Wheelbase


4.8L V8


6.0L V8


3.73
4.10
3.73
4.10


G2500 Passenger Van 2WD Short Wheelbase


6,400 lbs (2 903 kg) 7,400 lbs (3 357 kg) 8,400 lbs (3 810 kg) 10,000 lbs (4 536 kg)


6,200 lbs (2 812 kg) 7,200 lbs (3 266 kg) 8,200 lbs (3 719 kg) 10,000 lbs (4 536 kg)


6.0L V8
6.0L V8


5-28


3.73
4.10


7,600 lbs (3 447 kg) 9,600 lbs (4 355 kg)


12,000 lbs (5 443 kg) 13,000 lbs (5 897 kg) 14,000 lbs (6 350 kg) 16,000 lbs (7 257 kg)


12,000 lbs (5 443 kg) 13,000 lbs (5 897 kg) 14,000 lbs (6 350 kg) 16,000 lbs (7 257 kg)


14,000 lbs (6 350 kg) 16,000 lbs (7 257 kg)


Vehicle G3500 Cargo Van 2WD Short Wheelbase


Axle Ratio


Maximum Trailer Weight


GCWR*


4.8L V8


6.0L V8


3.73
4.10
3.73
4.10


G3500 Cargo Van 2WD Long Wheelbase


4.8L V8


6.0L V8


3.73
4.10
3.73
4.10


6,400 lbs (2 903 kg) 7,400 lbs (3 295 kg) 8,400 lbs (3 810 kg) 10,000 lbs (4 536 kg)


6,100 lbs (2 767 kg) 7,100 lbs (3 221 kg) 8,200 lbs (3 719 kg) 10,000 lbs (4 536 kg)


12,000 lbs (5 443 kg) 13,000 lbs (5 897 kg) 14,000 lbs (6 350 kg) 16,000 lbs (7 257 kg)


12,000 lbs (5 443 kg) 13,000 lbs (5 897 kg) 14,000 lbs (6 350 kg) 16,000 lbs (7 257 kg)


G3500 Passenger Van 2WD Short Wheelbase


6.0L V8


3.73


7,600 lbs (3 447 kg)


14,000 lbs (6 350 kg)


G3500 Passenger Van 2WD Long Wheelbase


6.0L V8


3.73


7,300 lbs (3 311 kg)


14,000 lbs (6 350 kg)


*The Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR) is the total allowable weight of the completely loaded vehicle and trailer including any passengers, cargo equipment and conversion. The GCWR for the vehicle should not be exceeded.


Ask your dealer/retailer for our trailering information or advice, or write us at our Customer Assistance Offices. See Customer Assistance Offices on page 8-5
for more information.


5-29


Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total gross weight of the vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo carried in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. If there are a lot of options, equipment, passengers or cargo in the vehicle, it will reduce the tongue weight the vehicle can carry, which will also reduce the trailer weight the vehicle can tow. If towing a trailer, the tongue load must be added to the GVW because the vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See Loading the Vehicle on page 5-17 for more information about the vehicle’s maximum load capacity.


The trailer tongue weight (A) should be 10 percent to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B), up to a maximum of 400 lbs (181 kg) with a weight carrying hitch. The trailer tongue weight (A) should be 10 percent to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B), up to a maximum of 1,000 lbs (454 kg) with a weight distributing hitch. Do not exceed the maximum allowable tongue weight for the vehicle. Choose the shortest hitch extension that will position the hitch ball closest to the vehicle. This will help reduce the effect of trailer tongue weight on the rear axle. After loading the trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they are not, adjustments might be made by moving some items around in the trailer. Trailering may be limited by the vehicle’s ability to carry tongue weight. Tongue weight cannot cause the vehicle to exceed the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) or the RGAWR (Rear Gross Axle Weight Rating). The effect of additional weight may reduce the trailering capacity more than the total of the additional weight.


5-30


Consider the following example: A vehicle model base weight is 5,500 lbs (2 495 kg); 2,800 lbs (1 270 kg) at the front axle and 2,700 lbs (1 225 kg) at the rear axle. It has a GVWR of 7,200 lbs (3 266 kg), a RGAWR of 4,000 lbs (1 814 kg) and a GCWR (Gross Combination Weight Rating) of 14,000 lbs (6 350 kg). The trailer rating should be:


If the vehicle has many options and there is a front seat passenger and two rear seat passengers with some luggage and gear in the vehicle as well. 300 lbs (136 kg) could be added to the front axle weight and 400 lbs (181 kg) to the rear axle weight. The vehicle now weighs:


Expect tongue weight to be at least 10 percent of trailer weight (850 lbs (386 kg)) and because the weight is applied well behind the rear axle, the effect on the rear axle is greater than just the weight itself, as much as 1.5 times as much. The weight at the rear axle could be 850 lbs (386 kg) X 1.5 = 1,275 lbs (578 kg). Since the rear axle already weighs 2,700 lbs (1 225 kg), adding 1,275 lbs (578 kg) brings the total to 3,975 lbs (1 803 kg). This is very close to, but within the limit for RGAWR as well. The vehicle is set to trailer up to 8,500 lbs (3 856 kg).


Weight is still below 7,200 lbs (3 266 kg) and you might think 700 additional pounds (318 kg) should be subtracted from the trailering capacity to stay within GCWR limits. The maximum trailer would only be 7,800 lbs (3 538 kg). You may go further and think the tongue weight should be limited to less than 1,000 lbs (454 kg) to avoid exceeding GVWR. But the effect on the rear axle must still be considered. Because the rear axle now weighs 3,100 lbs (1 406 kg), 900 lbs (408 kg) can be put on the rear axle without exceeding RGAWR. The effect of tongue weight is about 1.5 times the actual weight.


5-31


Dividing the 900 lbs (408 kg) by 1.5 leaves only 600 lbs (272 kg) of tongue weight that can be handled. Since tongue weight is usually at least 10 percent of total loaded trailer weight, expect that the largest trailer the vehicle can properly handle is 6,000 lbs (2 721 kg). It is important that the vehicle does not exceed any of its ratings — GCWR, GVWR, RGAWR, Maximum Trailer Rating or Tongue Weight. The only way to be sure it is not exceeding any of these ratings is to weigh the vehicle and trailer. Total Weight on the Vehicle’s Tires Be sure the vehicle’s tires are inflated to the upper limit for cold tires. These numbers can be found on the Certification label at the rear edge of the driver’s door or see Loading the Vehicle on page 5-17. Make sure not to go over the GVW limit for the vehicle, or the GAWR, including the weight of the trailer tongue. If using a weight distributing hitch, make sure not to go over the rear axle limit before applying the weight distribution spring bars. Hitches It is important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a few reasons why the right hitch is needed.


5-32


Weight-Distributing Hitches and Weight Carrying Hitches


A: Body to Ground Distance


B: Front of Vehicle When using a weight-distributing hitch, the hitch must be adjusted so the distance (A) remains the same both before and after coupling the trailer to the tow vehicle. If a step-bumper hitch will be used, the bumper could be damaged in sharp turns. Make sure there is ample room when turning to avoid contact between the trailer and the bumper.


If the loaded trailer being pulled will weigh more than 5,000 lbs (2 270 kg), be sure to use a properly mounted weight-distributing hitch and sway control of the proper size. This equipment is very important for proper vehicle loading and good handling when driving. Always use a sway control if the trailer will weigh more than these limits. Ask a hitch dealer about sway controls. Will any holes need to be made in the body of the vehicle when a trailer hitch is installed? If using the wiring provided with the factory-installed trailering package, no holes need to be made in the body of the vehicle. However, if an aftermarket hitch is installed, holes may need to be made in the body. If holes are made in the body, then be sure to seal the holes later when the hitch is removed. If the holes are not sealed, deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from the engine’s exhaust can get into the vehicle as well as dirt and water. See “Carbon Monoxide” under Engine Exhaust on page 3-38. Safety Chains Always attach chains between the vehicle and the trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer to help prevent the tongue from contacting the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Always leave just enough slack so the rig can turn. Never allow safety chains to drag on the ground.


Tow/Haul Mode


Pressing this button at the end of the shift lever turns on and off the tow/haul mode.


This indicator light on the instrument panel cluster comes on when the tow/haul mode is on.


Tow/Haul is a feature that assists when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load. See Tow/Haul Mode on page 3-33 for more information.


5-33


Tow/Haul is designed to be most effective when the vehicle and trailer combined weight is at least 75 percent of the vehicle’s Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR). See “Weight of the Trailer” later in the section. Tow/Haul is most useful under the following driving conditions: • When pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load


through rolling terrain.


• When pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load


in stop and go traffic.


• When pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load


in busy parking lots where improved low speed control of the vehicle is desired.


Operating the vehicle in Tow/Haul when lightly loaded or with no trailer at all will not cause damage. However, there is no benefit to the selection of Tow/Haul when the vehicle is unloaded. Such a selection when unloaded may result in unpleasant engine and transmission driving characteristics and reduced fuel economy. Tow/Haul is recommended only when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load. Trailer Brakes A loaded trailer that weighs more than 1,500 lbs (680 kg) needs to have its own brake system that is adequate for the weight of the trailer. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so they are installed, adjusted and maintained properly.


5-34


Driving with a Trailer


{ WARNING:


When towing a trailer, exhaust gases may collect at the rear of the vehicle and enter if the liftgate, trunk/hatch, or rear-most window is open. Engine exhaust contains carbon monoxide (CO) which cannot be seen or smelled. It can cause unconsciousness and even death. To maximize safety when towing a trailer:


• Have the exhaust system inspected for leaks and make necessary repairs before starting a trip.


• Never drive with the liftgate, trunk/hatch, or


rear-most window open.


• Fully open the air outlets on or under the


instrument panel.


• Adjust the Climate Control system to a setting that brings in only outside air and set the fan speed to the highest setting. See Climate Control System in the Index.


For more information about carbon monoxide, see Engine Exhaust on page 3-38


Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Get to know the rig before setting out for the open road. Get acquainted with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now longer and not as responsive as the vehicle is by itself. Before starting, check all trailer hitch parts and attachments, safety chains, electrical connectors, lamps, tires and mirror adjustments. If the trailer has electric brakes, start the vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This checks the electrical connection at the same time. During the trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working. Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving the vehicle without a trailer. This can help to avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns. Passing More passing distance is needed when towing a trailer. Because the rig is longer, it is necessary to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before returning to the lane.


Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you. Making Turns Notice: Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. The vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering. When turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so the trailer will not strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance. Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer The arrows on the instrument panel flash whenever signaling a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps also flash, telling other drivers the vehicle is turning, changing lanes or stopping. When towing a trailer, the arrows on the instrument panel flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. For this reason you may think other drivers are seeing the signal when they are not. It is important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working.


5-35


Driving On Grades Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before starting down a long or steep downgrade. If the transmission is not shifted down, the brakes might have to be used so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. The vehicle can tow in D (Drive). Shift the transmission to a lower gear if the transmission shifts too often under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions. When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, consider the following: Engine coolant will boil at a lower temperature than at normal altitudes. If the engine is turned off immediately after towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, the vehicle may show signs similar to engine overheating. To avoid this, let the engine run while parked, preferably on level ground, with the automatic transmission in P (Park) for a few minutes before turning the engine off. If the overheat warning comes on, see Engine Overheating on page 6-33.


Parking on Hills


{ WARNING:


Parking the vehicle on a hill with the trailer attached can be dangerous. If something goes wrong, the rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both the vehicle and the trailer can be damaged. When possible, always park the rig on a flat surface.


If parking the rig on a hill: 1. Press the brake pedal, but do not shift the


transmission into P (Park) yet. Turn the wheels into the curb if facing downhill or into traffic if facing uphill.


2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer


wheels.


3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the


brake pedal until the chocks absorb the load.


4. Reapply the brake pedal. Then apply the parking


brake and shift into P (Park).


5. Release the brake pedal.


5-36


Trailer Wiring Harness The optional heavy-duty trailer wiring package includes a wiring harness, with a seven-pin connector at the rear of the vehicle and a four-wire harness assembly under the driver side of the instrument panel. The four-wire harness assembly comes without a connector. If the vehicle does not have a trailer hitch, the seven-wire harness assembly with connector is taped together and located in a frame pocket at the driver side rear left corner of the frame. If the vehicle has a trailer hitch, the seven-wire harness assembly with connector is attached to a bracket on the hitch platform. In both cases, the seven-wire harness has a connector and includes a 30-amp feed wire.


Leaving After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply and hold the brake pedal while you:


• start the engine, • shift into a gear, and • release the parking brake.


2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks. 4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the


chocks.


Maintenance When Trailer Towing The vehicle needs service more often when pulling a trailer. See this manual’s Maintenance Schedule or Index for more information. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transmission fluid, engine oil, axle lubricant, belts, cooling system and brake system. It is a good idea to inspect these before and during the trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight.


5-37


The seven-wire harness connector contains the following trailer circuits: • Light Green: Back-up Lamps (10A fuse)** • White: Ground • Dark Blue: Trailer Brake Signal • Dark Green: Right Rear Stop and Turn Signal* • Red/Black Stripe: Battery Feed (30A Fuse) • Brown: Trailer Park Lamp Supply Voltage


(15A fuse)**


• Yellow: Left Rear Stop and Turn Signal *


The four-wire harness (without connector) contains the following circuits: • Black: Ground • Red/White: Battery Feed • Dark Blue: Trailer Brake Signal • Light Blue: CHMSL/Stoplamp Supply Voltage * If the vehicle is a cutaway with trailer provisions, a 15 amp fuse will be shared for both left/stop trailer turn and right/stop trailer turn signals. However, the cutaway lighting connector will have a 10 amp fuse for each signal. ** If the vehicle is a cutaway with trailer provisions, a 15 amp fuse will be shared for trailer park lamps and cutaway rear lighting connector park lamps. Also, a 10 amp fuse will be shared for trailer back-up lamps and cutaway rear lighting connector back-up lamps.


5-38


Section 6


Service and Appearance Care


Service ............................................................6-3
Accessories and Modifications ..........................6-3
California Proposition 65 Warning .....................6-4
California Perchlorate Materials Requirements .....6-4
Doing Your Own Service Work .........................6-4
Adding Equipment to the Outside of the


Vehicle ......................................................6-5
Fuel ................................................................6-5
Gasoline Octane ............................................6-6
Gasoline Specifications ....................................6-6
California Fuel ...............................................6-7
Additives .......................................................6-7
Fuel E85 (85% Ethanol) ..................................6-8
Fuels in Foreign Countries ...............................6-9
Filling the Tank ............................................6-10
Filling a Portable Fuel Container .....................6-12
Checking Things Under the Hood ....................6-12
Hood Release ..............................................6-13
Engine Compartment Overview .......................6-14
Engine Oil ...................................................6-15
Engine Oil Life System ..................................6-18
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter ................................6-19
Automatic Transmission Fluid (4-Speed


Transmission) ...........................................6-20


Automatic Transmission Fluid (6-Speed


Transmission) ...........................................6-23


Cooling System ............................................6-26
Engine Coolant .............................................6-28
Engine Overheating .......................................6-33
Engine Fan Noise .........................................6-34
Power Steering Fluid .....................................6-35
Windshield Washer Fluid ................................6-36
Brakes ........................................................6-37
Battery ........................................................6-40
Jump Starting ...............................................6-41
All-Wheel Drive ..............................................6-45
Rear Axle .......................................................6-46
Front Axle ......................................................6-46
Noise Control System .....................................6-47


Tampering with Noise Control System


Prohibited .................................................6-47
Bulb Replacement ..........................................6-48
Halogen Bulbs ..............................................6-49
Headlamps ..................................................6-49
Front Turn Signal, Sidemarker and Parking


Lamps .....................................................6-51
Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) .........6-51
Taillamps .....................................................6-52
License Plate Lamp ......................................6-53
Replacement Bulbs .......................................6-53
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement ..............6-54


6-1


Section 6


Service and Appearance Care


Tires ..............................................................6-55
Tire Sidewall Labeling ...................................6-56
Tire Terminology and Definitions .....................6-60
Inflation - Tire Pressure .................................6-63
Dual Tire Operation .......................................6-64
Tire Pressure Monitor System .........................6-65
Tire Pressure Monitor Operation .....................6-66
Tire Inspection and Rotation ...........................6-69
When It Is Time for New Tires .......................6-72
Buying New Tires .........................................6-73
Different Size Tires and Wheels ......................6-74
Uniform Tire Quality Grading ..........................6-75
Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance ..................6-76
Wheel Replacement ......................................6-76
Tire Chains ..................................................6-78
If a Tire Goes Flat ........................................6-79
Changing a Flat Tire .....................................6-80
Removing the Spare Tire and Tools ................6-81
Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the


Spare Tire ................................................6-85
Secondary Latch System ...............................6-92
Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools ............6-94
Spare Tire ...................................................6-96
Appearance Care ............................................6-96
Interior Cleaning ...........................................6-96
Fabric/Carpet ...............................................6-97


6-2


Instrument Panel, Vinyl, and Other Plastic


Surfaces ..................................................6-98
Care of Safety Belts ......................................6-99
Weatherstrips ...............................................6-99
Washing Your Vehicle ...................................6-99
Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses ....................6-100
Finish Care ................................................6-100
Windshield and Wiper Blades .......................6-101
Aluminum Wheels .......................................6-101
Tires .........................................................6-102
Sheet Metal Damage ...................................6-102
Finish Damage ...........................................6-102
Underbody Maintenance ...............................6-102
Chemical Paint Spotting ...............................6-102
Vehicle Identification .....................................6-103
Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) ................6-103
Service Parts Identification Label ...................6-103
Electrical System ..........................................6-104
Add-On Electrical Equipment .........................6-104
Headlamp Wiring ........................................6-104
Windshield Wiper Fuses ...............................6-104
Fuses and Circuit Breakers ..........................6-104
Floor Console Fuse Block ............................6-104
Engine Compartment Fuse Block ...................6-106
Capacities and Specifications ........................6-110


Service For service and parts needs, visit your dealer/retailer. You will receive genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:


Accessories and Modifications When non-dealer/non-retailer accessories are added to the vehicle, they can affect vehicle performance and safety, including such things as airbags, braking, stability, ride and handling, emissions systems, aerodynamics, durability, and electronic systems like antilock brakes, traction control, and stability control. Some of these accessories could even cause malfunction or damage not covered by the vehicle warranty. Damage to vehicle components resulting from the installation or use of non-GM certified parts, including control module modifications, is not covered under the terms of the vehicle warranty and may affect remaining warranty coverage for affected parts. GM Accessories are designed to complement and function with other systems on the vehicle. Your GM dealer/retailer can accessorize the vehicle using genuine GM Accessories. When you go to your GM dealer/ retailer and ask for GM Accessories, you will know that GM-trained and supported service technicians will perform the work using genuine GM Accessories. Also, see Adding Equipment to Your Airbag-Equipped Vehicle on page 2-78.


6-3


California Proposition 65 Warning Most motor vehicles, including this one, contain and/or emit chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. Engine exhaust, many parts and systems, many fluids, and some component wear by-products contain and/or emit these chemicals.


California Perchlorate Materials Requirements Certain types of automotive applications, such as airbag initiators, seat belt pretensioners, and lithium batteries contained in remote keyless transmitters, may contain perchlorate materials. Special handling may be necessary. For additional information, see www.dtsc.ca.gov/hazardouswaste/perchlorate.


6-4


Doing Your Own Service Work


{ WARNING:


You can be injured and the vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it.


• Be sure you have sufficient knowledge,


experience, the proper replacement parts, and tools before attempting any vehicle maintenance task.


• Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts, and


other fasteners. English and metric fasteners can be easily confused. If the wrong fasteners are used, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.


If doing some of your own service work, use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service the vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 8-15.


This vehicle has an airbag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see Servicing Your Airbag-Equipped Vehicle on page 2-77. Keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work performed. See Maintenance Record on page 7-15.


Adding Equipment to the Outside of the Vehicle Things added to the outside of the vehicle can affect the airflow around it. This can cause wind noise and can affect fuel economy and windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer/retailer before adding equipment to the outside of the vehicle.


Fuel For diesel engine vehicles, see “Diesel Fuel Requirements and Fuel System” in the DURAMAX® Diesel manual. For vehicles with gasoline engines, please read this. Gasoline Use of the recommended fuel is an important part of the proper maintenance of this vehicle. To help keep the engine clean and maintain optimum vehicle performance, we recommend the use of gasoline advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. Look for the TOP TIER label on the fuel pump to ensure gasoline meets enhanced detergency standards developed by auto companies. A list of marketers providing TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline can be found at www.toptiergas.com.


6-5


containing up to 85% ethanol (E85). See Fuel E85
(85% Ethanol) on page 6-8. For all other gasoline engines, use only regular unleaded gasoline.


Gasoline Octane Use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 87 or higher. If the octane rating is less than 87, an audible knocking noise, commonly referred to as spark knock, might be heard when driving. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. If heavy knocking is heard when using gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher, the engine needs service.


Gasoline Specifications At a minimum, gasoline should meet ASTM specification D 4814 in the United States or CAN/CGSB-3.5 or 3.511 in Canada. Some gasolines contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT). We recommend against the use of gasolines containing MMT. See Additives on page 6-7 for additional information.


The 8th digit of the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) shows the code letter or number that identifies the vehicle’s engine. The VIN is at the top left of the instrument panel. See Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) on page 6-103. If the vehicle has the 4.8L V8 engine (VIN Code A), the 5.3L V8 engine (VIN Code 4), or the 6.0L V8 engine (VIN Code G) and the N15 flexible fuel option, you can use either regular unleaded gasoline or ethanol fuel


6-6


California Fuel If the vehicle is certified to meet California Emissions Standards, it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. See the underhood emission control label. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, the vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance might be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp could turn on and the vehicle might fail a smog-check test. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 4-31. If this occurs, return to your authorized dealer/retailer for diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs might not be covered by the vehicle warranty.


Additives To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing the emission control system to work properly. In most cases, nothing should have to be added to the fuel. However, some gasolines contain only the minimum amount of additive required to meet U.S. Environmental Protection Agency regulations. To help keep fuel injectors and intake valves clean, or if the vehicle experiences problems due to dirty injectors or valves, look for gasoline that is advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. For customers who do not use TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline regularly, one bottle of GM Fuel System Treatment PLUS, added to the fuel tank at every engine oil change, can help clean deposits from fuel injectors and intake valves. GM Fuel System Treatment PLUS is the only gasoline additive recommended by General Motors.


6-7


Also, your dealer/retailer has additives that will help correct and prevent most deposit-related problems. Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines might be available in your area. We recommend that you use these gasolines, if they comply with the specifications described earlier. However, E85 (85% ethanol) and other fuels containing more than 10% ethanol must not be used in vehicles that were not designed for those fuels. Notice: This vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in the fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under the vehicle warranty. Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions can contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT. We recommend against the use of such gasolines. Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system could be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp might turn on. If this occurs, return to your dealer/retailer for service.


6-8


Fuel E85 (85% Ethanol) The 8th digit of the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) shows the code letter or number that identifies the vehicle’s engine. The VIN is at the top left of the instrument panel. See Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) on page 6-103. If the vehicle has the 4.8L V8 engine (VIN Code A), the 5.3L V8 (VIN Code 4), or the 6.0L V8 engine (VIN Code G) and the N15 flexible fuel option, you can use either unleaded gasoline or ethanol fuel containing up to 85% ethanol (E85). See Fuel on page 6-5. For all other gasoline engines, use only the unleaded gasoline described under Gasoline Octane on page 6-6. Only vehicles that have the 4.8L V8 engine (VIN Code A), the 5.3L V8 (VIN Code 4), or the 6.0L V8 engine (VIN Code G) and the N15 flexible fuel option can use 85% ethanol fuel (E85). We encourage the use of E85 in vehicles that are designed to use it. The ethanol in E85 is a “renewable” fuel, meaning it is made from renewable sources such as corn and other crops. Many service stations will not have an 85% ethanol fuel (E85) pump available. The U.S. Department of Energy has an alternative fuels website (www.eere.energy.gov/afdc/infrastructure/locator.html) that can help you find E85 fuel. Those stations that do have E85 should have a label indicating ethanol content. Do not use the fuel if the ethanol content is greater than 85%.


At a minimum, E85 should meet ASTM Specification D 5798. By definition, this means that fuel labeled E85
will have an ethanol content between 70% and 85%. Filling the fuel tank with fuel mixtures that do not meet ASTM specifications can affect driveability and could cause the malfunction indicator lamp to come on. To ensure quick starts in the wintertime, the E85 fuel must be formulated properly for your climate according to ASTM specification D 5798. If you have trouble starting on E85, it could be because the E85 fuel is not properly formulated for your climate. If this happens, switching to gasoline or adding gasoline to the fuel tank can improve starting. For good starting and heater efficiency below 32°F (0°C), the fuel mix in the fuel tank should contain no more than 70% ethanol. It is best not to alternate repeatedly between gasoline and E85. If you do switch fuels, it is recommended that you add as much fuel as possible — do not add less than three gallons (11 L) when refueling. You should drive the vehicle immediately after refueling for at least seven miles (11 km) to allow the vehicle to adapt to the change in ethanol concentration. E85 has less energy per gallon than gasoline, so you will need to refill the fuel tank more often when using E85 than when you are using gasoline. See Filling the Tank on page 6-10.


Notice: Some additives are not compatible with E85 fuel and can harm the vehicle’s fuel system. Do not add anything to E85. Damage caused by additives would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Notice: This vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in the fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under the vehicle warranty.


Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel might be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. To check the fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you will be driving.


6-9


The tethered fuel cap is located behind a hinged fuel door on the driver side of the vehicle.


If the vehicle has E85 fuel capability, the fuel cap will be yellow and state that E85 or gasoline can be used. See Fuel E85 (85% Ethanol) on page 6-8. To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly counterclockwise. While refueling, hang the tethered fuel cap from the hook on the fuel door.


Filling the Tank


{ WARNING:


Fuel vapor burns violently and a fuel fire can cause bad injuries. To help avoid injuries to you and others, read and follow all the instructions on the fuel pump island. Turn off the engine when refueling. Do not smoke near fuel or when refueling the vehicle. Do not use cellular phones. Keep sparks, flames, and smoking materials away from fuel. Do not leave the fuel pump unattended when refueling the vehicle. This is against the law in some places. Do not re-enter the vehicle while pumping fuel. Keep children away from the fuel pump; never let children pump fuel.


6-10


{ WARNING:


{ WARNING:


Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. If you spill fuel and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. This spray can happen if the tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any hiss noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.


Be careful not to spill fuel. Do not top off or overfill the tank and wait a few seconds after you have finished pumping before removing the nozzle. Clean fuel from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 6-99. When replacing the fuel cap, turn it clockwise until it clicks. Make sure the cap is fully installed. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 4-31.


If a fire starts while you are refueling, do not remove the nozzle. Shut off the flow of fuel by shutting off the pump or by notifying the station attendant. Leave the area immediately.


If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get


Notice: the right type. Your dealer/retailer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit properly. This may cause the malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage the fuel tank and emissions system. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 4-31.


6-11


Checking Things Under the Hood


{ WARNING:


Things that burn can get on hot engine or fuel operated heater (FOH) parts and start a fire. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine or fuel operated heater (FOH).


Filling a Portable Fuel Container


{ WARNING:


Never fill a portable fuel container while it is in the vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the fuel vapor. You can be badly burned and the vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others:


• Dispense fuel only into approved containers. • Do not fill a container while it is inside a


vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed, or on any surface other than the ground.


• Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the inside of the fill opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the filling is complete.


• Do not smoke while pumping fuel. • Do not use a cellular phone while


pumping fuel.


6-12


Hood Release To open the hood:


1. Pull the handle with


this symbol on it. It is located in front of the driver’s side door frame near the floor.


2. Then go to the front of the vehicle and lift up the


secondary hood release, which is located underneath the middle of the hood.


3. Lift the hood, release the hood prop from its


retainer and put the hood prop into the slot in the hood.


If your vehicle has an underhood lamp, it will automatically come on and stay on until the hood is closed. Before closing the hood, be sure all of the filler caps are on properly. Then lift the hood to relieve pressure on the hood prop. Remove the hood prop from the slot in the hood and return the prop to its retainer. Let the hood down and close it firmly.


6-13


Engine Compartment Overview If the vehicle has a diesel engine, see the maintenance schedule section in the DURAMAX® Diesel manual. When the hood is lifted:


6-14


A. Battery. See Battery on page 6-40. B. Radiator Pressure Cap. See Cooling System on


page 6-26.


C. Coolant Recovery Tank. See Cooling System on


page 6-26.


D. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick. See “Checking the Fluid Level” under Automatic Transmission Fluid (4-Speed Transmission) on page 6-20 or Automatic Transmission Fluid (6-Speed Transmission) on page 6-23.


E. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”


under Engine Oil on page 6-15.


F. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”


under Engine Oil on page 6-15.


G. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air


Cleaner/Filter on page 6-19.


H. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See Power Steering


Fluid on page 6-35.


I. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid”


under Brakes on page 6-37.


J. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding


Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 6-36.


Engine Oil For diesel engine vehicles, see “Engine Oil” in the DURAMAX® Diesel manual. Checking Engine Oil It is a good idea to check the engine oil level at each fuel fill. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground. The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 6-14 for the location of the engine oil dipstick. 1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If this is not done, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.


2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.


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When to Add Engine Oil


See Engine Compartment Overview on page 6-14 for the location of the engine oil fill cap.


If the oil is below the cross-hatched area at the tip of the dipstick, add at least one quart/liter of the recommended oil. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Specifications on page 6-110. Notice: Do not add too much oil. If the engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, the engine could be damaged.


Add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when through.


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What Kind of Engine Oil to Use Look for three things:


• GM6094M


Use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM6094M.


• SAE 5W-30


SAE 5W-30 is best for the vehicle. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50.


• American Petroleum Institute (API) starburst symbol


Oils meeting these requirements should have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API).


Notice: Use only engine oil identified as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and showing the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by the vehicle warranty. Cold Temperature Operation If in an area of extreme cold, where the temperature falls below −20°F (−29°C), use either an SAE 5W-30
synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 engine oil. Both provide easier cold starting for the engine at extremely low temperatures. Always use an oil that meets the required specification, GM6094M. See “What Kind of Engine Oil to Use” for more information.


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Engine Oil Additives / Engine Oil Flushes Do not add anything to the oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol that meet GM Standard GM6094M are all that is needed for good performance and engine protection. Engine oil system flushes are not recommended and could cause engine damage not covered by the vehicle warranty.


Engine Oil Life System When to Change Engine Oil This vehicle has a computer system that indicates when to change the engine oil and filter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change is indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, the system must be reset every time the oil is changed. When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it indicates that an oil change is necessary. A CHANGE ENGINE OIL SOON message comes on. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 4-44. Change the oil as soon as possible within the next 1 000 km (600 miles). It is possible that, if driving under the best conditions, the oil life system might not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year.


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However, the engine oil and filter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. Your dealer/retailer has trained service people who will perform this work using genuine parts and reset the system. It is also important to check the oil regularly and keep it at the proper level. If the system is ever reset accidentally, the oil must be changed at 5 000 km (3,000 miles) since the last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed. How to Reset the Engine Oil Life System The Engine Oil Life System calculates when to change the engine oil and filter based on vehicle use. Whenever the oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where the oil is changed prior to a CHANGE ENGINE OIL SOON message being turned on, reset the system. To reset the CHANGE ENGINE OIL SOON message: 1. Turn the ignition key to ON/RUN with the engine off. 2. Fully press and release the accelerator pedal


slowly three times within five seconds.


3. Turn the key to LOCK/OFF.


Engine Air Cleaner/Filter If your vehicle has the DURAMAX Diesel engine, see the DURAMAX Diesel manual for more information.


If the message comes back on when the vehicle is started, the engine oil life system has not reset. Repeat the procedure. If it still does not reset, see your dealer/retailer for service. What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that can be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the filter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil.


The engine air cleaner/filter is located near the center of the engine compartment. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 6-14 for more information on location.


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When to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Inspect the air cleaner/filter at the Maintenance II intervals and replace it at the first oil change after each 50,000 mile (80 000 km) interval. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 7-3 for more information. If you are driving in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect the filter at each engine oil change. How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter To inspect the air cleaner/filter, remove the filter from the vehicle and lightly shake the filter to release loose dust and dirt. If the filter remains caked with dirt, a new filter is required. Never use compressed air to clean the filter. To inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/filter, do the following: 1. Unhook the retainer clips and remove the cover. 2. Lift the filter out of the engine air cleaner/filter housing. Care should be taken to dislodge as little dirt as possible.


3. Clean the engine air cleaner/filter housing. 4. Inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/filter. Make


sure that the filter fits properly into the housing.


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5. Reinstall the cover and fasten the retaining clips.


{ WARNING:


Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps to stop flames if the engine backfires. If it is not there and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.


If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire can


Notice: cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into the engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you are driving.


Automatic Transmission Fluid (4-Speed Transmission) If your vehicle has the DURAMAX Diesel engine, see the DURAMAX Diesel manual for more information.


When to Check and Change Automatic Transmission Fluid A good time to check your automatic transmission fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change the fluid and filter at the intervals listed in Scheduled Maintenance on page 7-3, and be sure to use the transmission fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 7-11. How to Check Automatic Transmission Fluid Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealer/retailer service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick. Notice: Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Too little fluid could cause the transmission to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid.


Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission fluid level if you have been driving: • When outside temperatures are above 32°C (90°F). • At high speed for quite a while. • In heavy traffic — especially in hot weather. • While pulling a trailer. To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 82°C to 93°C (180°F to 200°F). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 24 km (15 miles) when outside temperatures are above 10°C (50°F). If it is colder than 10°C (50°F), drive the vehicle in D (DRIVE) until the engine temperature gage moves and then remains steady for 10 minutes. A cold fluid check can be made after the vehicle has been sitting for eight hours or more with the engine off, but this is used only as a reference. Let the engine run at idle for five minutes if outside temperatures are 50°F (10°C) or more. If it is colder than 10°C (50°F), you may have to idle the engine longer. Should the fluid level be low during this cold check, you must check the fluid hot before adding fluid. Checking the fluid hot will give you a more accurate reading of the fluid level.


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See Engine Compartment Overview on page 6-14 for more information on location. 1. Flip the handle up and then pull out the dipstick


and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.


2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and


then pull it back out again.


Checking the Fluid Level Prepare your vehicle as follows: 1. Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine


running.


2. With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever


in P (Park).


3. With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in P (Park).


4. Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more. Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:


The transmission dipstick is located near the center of the engine compartment and will be labeled with the graphic shown.


3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower


level. The fluid level must be in the COLD area for a cold check or in the HOT or cross-hatched area for a hot check. Be sure to keep the dipstick pointed down to get an accurate reading.


4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the


dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.


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How to Add Automatic Transmission Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transmission fluid to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 7-11. Using a funnel, add fluid down the transmission dipstick tube only after checking the transmission fluid while it is hot. A cold check is used only as a reference. If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level up to the HOT area for a hot check. It does not take much fluid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Do not overfill. Notice: Use of the incorrect automatic transmission fluid may damage the vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by the vehicle’s warranty. Always use the automatic transmission fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 7-11. • After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as described under “How to Check Automatic Transmission Fluid,” earlier in this section.


• When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the


dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.


Automatic Transmission Fluid (6-Speed Transmission) When to Check and Change Automatic Transmission Fluid It is usually not necessary to check the transmission fluid level. The only reason for fluid loss is a transmission leak or overheating the transmission. If a small leak is suspected, use the following procedures to check the fluid level. However, if there is a large leak, then it may be necessary to have the vehicle towed to a dealer/retailer service department and have it repaired before driving the vehicle further. Change the fluid and filter at the intervals listed in Scheduled Maintenance on page 7-3, and be sure to use the transmission fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 7-11. How to Check Automatic Transmission Fluid Because this operation can be difficult, it is recommended to have this check done at the dealer/retailer service department, which can monitor the transmission temperature. The transmission fluid level increases with temperature. To obtain a highly accurate fluid level check, the transmission temperature must be measured.


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If it is decided to check the fluid level, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or a false reading on the dipstick may occur. Notice: Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Too little fluid could cause the transmission to

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