2008 GMC Canyon Owners Manual

Four-Wheel Drive Vehicles

Use the following procedure to tow your vehicle with all four wheels on the ground: 1. Drive the vehicle to be towed into position behind

the tow vehicle.

2. Firmly set the parking brake. See Parking Brake on

page 2-32 for more information.

3. Put an automatic transmission in PARK (P) or a

manual transmission in FIRST (1).

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(cid:129) If you tow a two-wheel-drive vehicle with

Dolly Towing Front Towing (Front Wheels Off the Ground) Two-Wheel-Drive Vehicles Notice: the rear wheels on the ground, the transmission could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Never tow your vehicle with the rear wheels on the ground. Two-wheel-drive vehicles should not be towed with the rear wheels on the ground. Two-wheel-drive transmissions have no provisions for internal lubrication while being towed. To dolly tow a two-wheel-drive vehicle, you must tow the vehicle with the rear wheels on the dolly. See “Rear Towing (Rear Wheels Off the Ground)” later in this section for more information.

4. Securely attach the vehicle being towed to the

tow vehicle.

{CAUTION:

Shifting a four-wheel-drive vehicle’s transfer case into NEUTRAL can cause your vehicle to roll even if the transmission is in PARK (P) for an automatic transmission, or if your vehicle is in gear, for a manual transmission. You or others could be injured. Make sure the parking brake is firmly set before you shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL.

5. Shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL. See Four-Wheel Drive on page 2-28 for more information.

6. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle being towed is firmly attached to the tow vehicle.

7. Turn the ignition to LOCK.

If the tow vehicle will not be started or driven for six weeks or more, remove the battery cable from the negative terminal (post) of the battery to prevent your battery from draining while towing.

After towing see “Shifting Out of NEUTRAL” under Four-Wheel Drive on page 2-28.

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Four-Wheel-Drive Vehicles

Use the following procedure to dolly tow your vehicle from the front: 1. Drive the vehicle onto the dolly. 2. Firmly set the parking brake. See Parking Brake on

page 2-32 for more information.

3. Put an automatic transmission in PARK (P) or a

manual transmission in FIRST (1).

4. Follow the dolly manufacturer’s instructions to attach

and secure the vehicle being towed to the dolly and then the loaded dolly to the tow vehicle.

{CAUTION:

Shifting a four-wheel-drive vehicle’s transfer case into NEUTRAL can cause your vehicle to roll even if the transmission is in PARK (P) for an automatic transmission, or if your vehicle is in gear, for a manual transmission. You or others could be injured. Make sure the parking brake is firmly set before you shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL.

5. Shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL. See Four-Wheel Drive on page 2-28 for more information.

6. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle being towed is firmly attached to the tow vehicle.

7. Turn the ignition to LOCK.

If the tow vehicle will not be started or driven for six weeks or more, remove the battery cable from the negative terminal (post) of the battery to prevent your battery from draining while towing.

After towing see “Shifting Out of NEUTRAL” under Four-Wheel Drive on page 2-28.

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3. Put an automatic transmission in PARK (P) or a

manual transmission in FIRST (1).

4. Follow the dolly manufacturer’s instructions to attach and secure the vehicle being towed to the dolly and then the loaded dolly to the tow vehicle. Make sure the wheels are straight before towing. For manual transmission vehicles, make sure the wheels are straight before proceeding to the next steps. On automatic transmission vehicles, use an adequate clamping device to ensure that the front wheels are locked into the straight position. 5. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle being towed is firmly attached to the tow vehicle.

6. Turn the ignition to LOCK.

If the tow vehicle will not be started or driven for six weeks or more, remove the battery cable from the negative terminal (post) of the battery to prevent your battery from draining while towing.

Rear Towing (Rear Wheels Off the Ground) Two-Wheel-Drive Vehicles

Use the following procedure to tow your vehicle from the rear: 1. Drive the vehicle onto the dolly. 2. Firmly set the parking brake. See Parking Brake on

page 2-32 for more information.

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Four-Wheel-Drive Vehicles

steps. On automatic transmission vehicles, use an adequate clamping device to ensure that the front wheels are locked into the straight position.

{CAUTION:

Shifting a four-wheel-drive vehicle’s transfer case into NEUTRAL can cause your vehicle to roll even if the transmission is in PARK (P) for an automatic transmission, or if your vehicle is in gear, for a manual transmission. You or others could be injured. Make sure the parking brake is firmly set before you shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL.

Use the following procedure to tow your vehicle from the rear: 1. Drive the vehicle onto the dolly. 2. Firmly set the parking brake. See Parking Brake on

page 2-32 for more information.

3. Put an automatic transmission in PARK (P) or a

manual transmission in FIRST (1).

4. Follow the dolly manufacturer’s instructions to

attach and secure the vehicle being towed to the dolly and then the loaded dolly to the tow vehicle. For manual transmission vehicles, make sure the wheels are straight before proceeding to the next

5. Shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL. See Four-Wheel Drive on page 2-28 for more information.

6. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle being towed is firmly attached to the tow vehicle.

7. Turn the ignition to LOCK.

If the tow vehicle will not be started or driven for six weeks or more, remove the battery cable from the negative terminal (post) of the battery to prevent your battery from draining while towing. After towing, see “Shifting Out of NEUTRAL” under Four-Wheel Drive on page 2-28.

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Towing a Trailer

{CAUTION:

If you do not use the correct equipment and drive properly, you can lose control when you pull a trailer. For example, if the trailer is too heavy, the brakes may not work well — or even at all. You and your passengers could be seriously injured. You may also damage your vehicle; the resulting repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Pull a trailer only if you have followed all the steps in this section. Ask your dealer/retailer for advice and information about towing a trailer with your vehicle.

Notice: Pulling a trailer improperly can damage your vehicle and result in costly repairs that would not be covered by your warranty. Always follow the instructions in this section and check with your dealer/retailer for more information about towing a trailer with your vehicle. To identify the trailering capacity of your vehicle, you should read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this section. Trailering is different than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, acceleration, braking, durability and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly. That’s the reason for this part. In it are many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before you pull a trailer.

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If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer If you do, here are some important points:

There are many different laws, including speed limit restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure your rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you’ll be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police.

(cid:129) Consider using a sway control. You can ask a hitch

dealer/retailer about sway controls.

(cid:129) Don’t tow a trailer at all during the first 500 miles (800 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine, axle or other parts could be damaged. Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that you tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the heavier loads.

(cid:129) You may want to shift the transmission to THIRD (3)

or, if necessary, a lower gear selection if the transmission shifts too often (e.g., under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions). If you have a manual transmission and you are towing a trailer, it’s better not to use the highest gear.

Three important considerations have to do with weight:

the weight of the trailer, the weight of the trailer tongue and the weight on your vehicle’s tires.

Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. It can also depend on any special equipment that you have on your vehicle, and the amount of tongue weight the vehicle can carry. See “Weight of the Trailer Tongue” later in this section for more information. Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming only the driver is in the tow vehicle and it has all the required trailering equipment. The weight of additional optional equipment, passengers and cargo in the tow vehicle must be subtracted from the maximum trailer weight.

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(cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) The following charts show how much your trailer can weigh, based upon your vehicle model and options.

2WD Regular Cab

Axle Ratio

Maximum Trailer Weight

GCWR*

Automatic Transmission, 2.9L Engine

Automatic Transmission, 3.7L Engine

Manual Transmission, 2.9L Engine

3.73

3.73

3.73

3,400 lbs (1 542 kg)

7,000 lbs (3 175 kg)

4,000 lbs (1 814 kg)

8,500 lbs (3 855 kg)

2,400 lbs (1 089 kg)

6,000 lbs (2 722 kg)

*The Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR) is the total allowable weight of the completely loaded vehicle and trailer including any passengers, cargo, equipment and conversions. The GCWR for your vehicle should not be exceeded.

2WD Extended Cab

Axle Ratio

Maximum Trailer Weight

GCWR*

Automatic Transmission, 2.9L Engine

Automatic Transmission, 3.7L Engine

Automatic Transmission, 5.3L Engine

3.73

3.73

3.42

3,200 lbs (1 451 kg)

7,000 lbs (3 175 kg)

5,500 lbs (2 495 kg)

9,500 lbs (4 309 kg)

6,000 lbs (2 722 kg)

10,400 lbs (4 717 kg)

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2WD Extended Cab

Axle Ratio

Maximum Trailer Weight

GCWR*

Automatic Transmission, 5.3L Engine **

Manual Transmission, 2.9L Engine

3.42

3.73

4,000 lbs (1 814 kg)

10,400 lbs (4 717 kg)

2,200 lbs (998 kg)

6,000 lbs (2 722 kg)

*The Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR) is the total allowable weight of the completely loaded vehicle and trailer including any passengers, cargo, equipment and conversions. The GCWR for your vehicle should not be exceeded. **With the ZQ8 Suspension Package.

3.73

3.73

GCWR*

Axle Ratio

7,000 lbs (3 175 kg)

5,500 lbs (2 495 kg)

3,000 lbs (1 361 kg)

Maximum Trailer Weight

2WD Crew Cab Automatic Transmission, 2.9L Engine Automatic Transmission, 3.7L Engine Automatic Transmission, 5.3L Engine Automatic Transmission, 5.3L Engine ** Manual Transmission, 2.9L Engine *The Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR) is the total allowable weight of the completely loaded vehicle and trailer including any passengers, cargo, equipment and conversions. The GCWR for your vehicle should not be exceeded. **With the ZQ8 Suspension Package.

10,400 lbs (4 717 kg)

10,400 lbs (4 717 kg)

6,000 lbs (2 722 kg)

9,500 lbs (4 309 kg)

3,800 lbs (1 724 kg)

6,000 lbs (2 722 kg)

2,100 lbs (953 kg)

3.42

3.42

3.73

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4WD Regular Cab

Axle Ratio

Maximum Trailer Weight

GCWR*

Automatic Transmission, 2.9L Engine

Automatic Transmission, 2.9L Engine

Automatic Transmission, 3.7L Engine

Manual Transmission, 2.9L Engine

Manual Transmission, 2.9L Engine

3.73

3.73

3.73

3.73

4.10

3,000 lbs (1 361 kg)

7,000 lbs (3 175 kg)

3,000 lbs (1 361 kg)

7,000 lbs (3 175 kg)

4,000 lbs (1 814 kg)

9,000 lbs (4 082 kg)

2,100 lbs (953 kg)

6,000 lbs (2 722 kg)

2,100 lbs (953 kg)

6,000 lbs (2 722 kg)

*The Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR) is the total allowable weight of the completely loaded vehicle and trailer including any passengers, cargo, equipment and conversions. The GCWR for your vehicle should not be exceeded.

4WD Extended Cab

Axle Ratio

Maximum Trailer Weight

GCWR*

Automatic Transmission, 2.9L Engine

Automatic Transmission, 2.9L Engine

Automatic Transmission, 3.7L Engine

Automatic Transmission, 5.3L Engine

3.73

4.10

3.73

3.42

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2,900 lbs (1 315 kg)

7,000 lbs (3 175 kg)

2,900 lbs (1 315 kg)

7,000 lbs (3 175 kg)

5,500 lbs (2 495 kg)

9,800 lbs (4 445 kg)

6,000 lbs (2 722 kg)

10,400 lbs (4 717 kg)

4WD Extended Cab

Axle Ratio

Maximum Trailer Weight

GCWR*

Manual Transmission, 2.9L Engine

Manual Transmission, 2.9L Engine

3.73

4.10

1,900 lbs (861 kg)

6,000 lbs (2 722 kg)

1,900 lbs (861 kg)

6,000 lbs (2 722 kg)

*The Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR) is the total allowable weight of the completely loaded vehicle and trailer including any passengers, cargo, equipment and conversions. The GCWR for your vehicle should not be exceeded.

4WD Crew Cab

Axle Ratio

Maximum Trailer Weight

GCWR*

Automatic Transmission, 3.7L Engine

Automatic Transmission, 5.3L Engine

3.73

3.42

5,500 lbs (2 495 kg)

9,800 lbs (4 445 kg)

6,000 lbs (2 722 kg)

10,400 lbs (4 717 kg)

*The Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR) is the total allowable weight of the completely loaded vehicle and trailer including any passengers, cargo, equipment and conversions. The GCWR for your vehicle should not be exceeded.

Ask your dealer/retailer for our trailering information or advice, or you can write us at our Customer Assistance Offices. See Customer Assistance Offices on page 7-5 for more information.

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Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total or gross weight of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. If you have a lot of options, equipment, passengers or cargo in your vehicle, it will reduce the tongue weight your vehicle can carry, which will also reduce the trailer weight your vehicle can tow. And if you will tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load to the GVW because your vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-32 for more information about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.

Do not exceed the maximum allowable tongue weight for your vehicle. Choose the shortest hitch extension that will position the hitch ball closest to the vehicle. This will help reduce the effect of trailer tongue weight on the rear axle. After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they aren’t you may be able to get them right simply by moving some of the items around in the trailer. Trailering may be limited by the vehicle’s ability to carry tongue weight. Tongue weight cannot cause the vehicle to exceed the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) or the RGAWR (Rear Gross Axle Weight Rating). The effect of additional weight may reduce your trailering capacity more than the total of the additional weight.

The trailer tongue weight (A) should be 10 percent to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight, up to a maximum of 500 lbs (226 kg) with a weight carrying hitch.

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Consider the following example: A vehicle model base weight is 5,500 lbs (2 495 kg); 2,800 lbs (1 270 kg) at the front axle and 2,700 lbs (1 225 kg) at the rear axle. It has a GVWR of 7,200 lbs (3 266 kg), a RGAWR of 4,000 lbs (1 814 kg) and a GCWR (Gross Combination Weight Rating) of 14,000 lbs (6 350 kg). The trailer rating should be:

But let’s say your specific vehicle is equipped with some of the latest options and you have a front seat passenger and two rear seat passengers with some luggage and gear in the vehicle as well. You may add 300 lbs (136 kg) to the front axle weight and 400 lbs (181 kg) to the rear axle weight. Your vehicle now weighs:

You can expect tongue weight to be at least 10 percent of trailer weight (850 lbs (386 kg)) and because the weight is applied well behind the rear axle, the effect on the rear axle will be greater than just the weight itself, as much as 1.5 times as much. The weight at the rear axle could be 850 lbs (386 kg) X 1.5 = 1,275 lbs (578 kg). Since the rear axle already weighs 2,700 lbs (1 225 kg), adding 1,275 lbs (578 kg) brings the total to 3,975 lbs (1 803 kg). This is very close to, but within the limit for RGAWR as well. The vehicle is set to trailer up to 8,500 lbs (3 856 kg).

Weight is still below 7,200 lbs (3 266 kg) and you may think that you should subtract 700 additional pounds (318 kg) from your trailering capacity to stay within GCWR limits. Your maximum trailer would only be 7,800 lbs (3 538 kg). You may go further and think you must limit tongue weight to less than 1,000 lbs (454 kg) to avoid exceeding GVWR. But, you must still consider the effect on the rear axle. Because your rear axle now weighs 3,100 lbs (1 406 kg), you can only put 900 lbs (408 kg) on the rear axle without exceeding RGAWR.

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The effect of tongue weight is about 1.5 times the actual weight. Dividing the 900 lbs (408 kg) by 1.5 leaves you with being able to handle only 600 lbs (272 kg) of tongue weight. Since tongue weight is usually at least 10 percent of total loaded trailer weight, you can expect that the largest trailer your vehicle can properly handle is 6,000 lbs (2 721 kg). It is important that you make sure your vehicle does not exceed any of its ratings — GCWR, GVWR, RGAWR, Maximum Trailer Rating or Tongue Weight. The only way to be sure you are not exceeding any of these ratings is to weigh your vehicle and trailer. Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the upper limit for cold tires. You’ll find these numbers on the Certification/Tire label located at the bottom of the center pillar on the driver’s side of the vehicle, or see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-32. Then be sure you don’t go over the GVWR limit for your vehicle, including the weight of the trailer tongue. Hitches It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch.

Weight-Distributing Hitches and Weight Carrying Hitches You can use your step bumper hitch for trailers up to 2,000 lbs (907 kg) total weight, and 200 lbs (90 kg) tongue weight. Notice: bumper could be damaged in sharp turns. Make sure you have ample room when turning to avoid contact between the trailer and the bumper.

If you use a step-bumper hitch, your

Safety Chains You should always attach chains between your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer to help prevent the tongue from contacting the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. For trailers up to 2,000 lbs (907 kg) you may attach the safety chains to the attaching points on the bumper. For heavier trailers, follow the trailer or hitch manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety chains. Always leave just enough slack so you can turn with your rig. Never allow safety chains to drag on the ground.

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Trailer Brakes If your trailer weighs more than 1,000 lbs (450 kg) loaded, then it needs its own brakes — and they must be adequate. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install, adjust and maintain them properly. Your trailer’s brake system can tap into the vehicle’s hydraulic brake system only if:

The trailer parts can withstand 3,000 psi (20 650 kPa) of pressure. The trailer’s brake system will use less than 0.02 cubic inch (0.3 cc) of fluid from your vehicle’s master cylinder. Otherwise, both braking systems won’t work well. You could even lose your brakes. If everything checks out this far, then make the brake fluid tap at the port on the master cylinder that sends fluid to the rear brakes. But don’t use copper tubing for this. If you do, it will bend and finally break off. Use steel brake tubing.

Driving with a Trailer Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as responsive as your vehicle is by itself. Before you start, check all trailer hitch parts and attachments, safety chains, electrical connector, lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your electrical connection at the same time. During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working. Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns.

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(cid:129) (cid:129) Passing You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane. Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you. Making Turns Notice: Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering. When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.

Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have extra wiring and a heavy-duty turn signal flasher. The arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other drivers you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop. When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working. Driving On Grades Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much that they would get hot and no longer work well.

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When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, consider the following: Engine coolant will boil at a lower temperature than at normal altitudes. If you turn your engine off immediately after towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs similar to engine overheating. To avoid this, let the engine run while parked (preferably on level ground) with the automatic transmission in PARK (P) (or the manual transmission out of gear and the parking brake applied) for a few minutes before turning the engine off. If you do get the overheat warning, see Engine Overheating on page 5-29.

Parking on Hills

{CAUTION:

You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged.

But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s how to do it: 1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into

PARK (P) yet, or into gear for a manual transmission. When parking uphill, turn your wheels away from the curb. When parking downhill, turn your wheels into the curb.

2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer

wheels.

3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.

4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your

parking brake, and then shift into PARK (P), or REVERSE (R) for a manual transmission. See Parking Brake on page 2-32 for more information.

5. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear and not in NEUTRAL. See Four-Wheel Drive on page 2-28
for more information.

6. Release the regular brakes.

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When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down

while you:

Trailer Wiring Harness Heavy-Duty Trailer Wiring Package

start your engine, shift into a gear, and release the parking brake.

2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks. 4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the

chocks.

Maintenance When Trailer Towing Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4
for more on this. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transmission fluid (don’t overfill), engine oil, axle lubricant, belt, cooling system and brake system. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review these sections before you start your trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight.

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If your vehicle is equipped with a trailer towing package, the rear bumper harness will have a seven-pin universal heavy-duty trailer connector attached to a bracket on the hitch platform. The trailer towing harness contains the following seven trailer circuits: (cid:129) Yellow: Left Stop/Turn Signal (cid:129) Dark Green: Right Stop/Turn Signal (cid:129) Brown: Taillamps

(cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) Trailer Recommendations You must subtract your hitch load from the CWR for your vehicle. Weigh your vehicle with your trailer attached, so that you won’t go over the GVWR or the GAWR. You’ll get the best performance if you spread out the weight of your load the right way, and if you choose the correct hitch and trailer brakes. For more information, see Towing a Trailer on page 4-44
later in this section.

(cid:129) White: Ground

Light Green: Back-up Lamps

(cid:129) Red: Battery Feed (cid:129) Dark Blue: Trailer Brake If you are charging a remote (non-vehicle) battery, turn on the headlamps to boost the vehicle system voltage to properly charge the battery.

Trailer Brake Control Wiring Harness The wires for the trailer brake control are taped to a wiring harness under the instrument panel. The trailer brake control harness will contain the following labeled wires: (cid:129) Dark Blue Wire (#47): Trailer Brake (cid:129) Red Wire (#242): Batt ‘‘+’’

Light Blue Wire (#20): Brake Lights (cid:129) Black Wire (#2050): Brake Ground

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(cid:129) (cid:129) ✍ NOTES

4-58

Section 5

Service and Appearance Care

Service ............................................................5-3
Accessories and Modifications ..........................5-3
California Proposition 65 Warning .....................5-3
California Perchlorate Materials Requirements .....5-4
Doing Your Own Service Work .........................5-4
Adding Equipment to the Outside

of Your Vehicle ...........................................5-5
Fuel ................................................................5-5
Gasoline Octane ............................................5-5
Gasoline Specifications ....................................5-5
California Fuel ...............................................5-6
Additives .......................................................5-6
Fuels in Foreign Countries ...............................5-7
Filling the Tank ..............................................5-8
Filling a Portable Fuel Container .....................5-10
Checking Things Under the Hood ....................5-10
Hood Release ..............................................5-11
Engine Compartment Overview .......................5-12
Engine Oil ...................................................5-15
Engine Oil Life System ..................................5-18
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter ................................5-19
Automatic Transmission Fluid .........................5-21
Manual Transmission Fluid .............................5-23
Hydraulic Clutch ...........................................5-24
Engine Coolant .............................................5-26

Radiator Pressure Cap ..................................5-29
Engine Overheating .......................................5-29
Cooling System ............................................5-31
Engine Fan Noise .........................................5-36
Power Steering Fluid .....................................5-36
Windshield Washer Fluid ................................5-37
Brakes ........................................................5-38
Battery ........................................................5-41
Jump Starting ...............................................5-42
Rear Axle .......................................................5-46
Four-Wheel Drive ............................................5-47
Front Axle ......................................................5-48
Headlamp Aiming ...........................................5-49
Bulb Replacement ..........................................5-49
Halogen Bulbs ..............................................5-49
Headlamps ..................................................5-50
Front Turn Signal, Parking and Daytime

Running Lamps (DRL) ................................5-51
Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) .........5-51
Taillamps, Turn Signal, Stoplamps

and Back-up Lamps ...................................5-52
License Plate Lamp ......................................5-53
Replacement Bulbs .......................................5-53
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement ..............5-54

5-1

Section 5

Service and Appearance Care

Tires ..............................................................5-56
Tire Sidewall Labeling ...................................5-57
Tire Terminology and Definitions .....................5-59
Inflation - Tire Pressure .................................5-62
High-Speed Operation ...................................5-64
Tire Pressure Monitor System .........................5-65
Tire Pressure Monitor Operation .....................5-66
Tire Inspection and Rotation ...........................5-70
When It Is Time for New Tires .......................5-71
Buying New Tires .........................................5-72
Different Size Tires and Wheels ......................5-74
Uniform Tire Quality Grading ..........................5-74
Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance ..................5-76
Wheel Replacement ......................................5-76
Tire Chains ..................................................5-78
If a Tire Goes Flat ........................................5-79
Changing a Flat Tire .....................................5-80
Removing the Spare Tire and Tools ................5-81
Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the

Spare Tire ................................................5-84
Secondary Latch System ...............................5-91
Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools ............5-94
Spare Tire ...................................................5-98
Appearance Care ............................................5-99
Interior Cleaning ...........................................5-99
Fabric/Carpet ..............................................5-101
Leather ......................................................5-102

5-2

Instrument Panel, Vinyl, and Other

Plastic Surfaces .......................................5-102
Care of Safety Belts ....................................5-103
Weatherstrips .............................................5-103
Washing Your Vehicle ..................................5-103
Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses ....................5-104
Finish Care ................................................5-104
Windshield and Wiper Blades .......................5-105
Aluminum or Chrome-Plated Wheels

and Trim ................................................5-106
Tires .........................................................5-107
Sheet Metal Damage ...................................5-107
Finish Damage ...........................................5-107
Underbody Maintenance ...............................5-107
Chemical Paint Spotting ...............................5-107
Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials ................5-108
Vehicle Identification .....................................5-109
Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) ................5-109
Service Parts Identification Label ...................5-109
Electrical System ..........................................5-110
Add-On Electrical Equipment .........................5-110
Windshield Wiper Fuses ...............................5-110
Fuses and Circuit Breakers ..........................5-110
Engine Compartment Fuse Block ...................5-111
Capacities and Specifications ........................5-116
Capacities and Specifications ........................5-116

Service For service and parts needs, visit your dealer/retailer. You will receive genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:

Accessories and Modifications When non-dealer/non-retailer accessories are added to your vehicle they can affect your vehicle’s performance and safety, including such things as, airbags, braking, stability, ride and handling, emissions systems, aerodynamics, durability, and electronic systems like antilock brakes, traction control and stability control. Some of these accessories could even cause malfunction or damage not covered by warranty. GM Accessories are designed to complement and function with other systems on your vehicle. Your GM dealer/retailer can accessorize your vehicle using genuine GM Accessories. When you go to your GM dealer/retailer and ask for GM Accessories, you will know that GM-trained and supported service technicians will perform the work using genuine GM Accessories. Also, see Adding Equipment to Your Airbag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-74.

California Proposition 65 Warning Most motor vehicles, including this one, contain and/or emit chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. Engine exhaust, many parts and systems (including some inside the vehicle), many fluids, and some component wear by-products contain and/or emit these chemicals.

5-3

California Perchlorate Materials Requirements Certain types of automotive applications, such as airbag initiators, seat belt pretensioners, and lithium batteries contained in remote keyless entry transmitters, may contain perchlorate materials. Special handling may be necessary. For additional information, see www.dtsc.ca.gov/hazardouswaste/perchlorate.

Doing Your Own Service Work

{CAUTION:

You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it.

(cid:129) Be sure you have sufficient knowledge,

experience, the proper replacement parts, and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task.

(cid:129) Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts,

and other fasteners. English and metric fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.

If you want to do some of your own service work, you should use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 7-15. Your vehicle has an airbag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see Servicing Your Airbag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-74.

5-4

You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See Maintenance Record on page 6-16.

Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airflow around it. This can cause wind noise and can affect fuel economy and windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer/retailer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle. Fuel Use of the recommended fuel is an important part of the proper maintenance of your vehicle. To help keep the engine clean and maintain optimum vehicle performance, we recommend the use of gasoline advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline.

Gasoline Octane Use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 87 or higher. If the octane rating is less than 87, you might notice an audible knocking noise when you drive, commonly referred to as spark knock. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. If you are using gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, the engine needs service.

Gasoline Specifications At a minimum, gasoline should meet ASTM specification D 4814 in the United States or CAN/CGSB-3.5 or 3.511 in Canada. Some gasolines contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT). We recommend against the use of gasolines containing MMT. See Additives on page 5-6 for additional information.

5-5

California Fuel If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emissions Standards, it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. See the underhood emission control label. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance might be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp could turn on and your vehicle might fail a smog-check test. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-34. If this occurs, return to your authorized dealer/retailer for diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs might not be covered by your warranty.

Additives To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing the emission control system to work properly. In most cases, you should not have to add anything to the fuel. However, some gasolines contain only the minimum amount of additive required to meet U.S. Environmental Protection Agency regulations. To help keep fuel injectors and intake valves clean, or if your vehicle experiences problems due to dirty injectors or valves, look for gasoline that is advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. Also, your dealer/retailer has additives that will help correct and prevent most deposit-related problems. Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines might be available in your area. We recommend that you use these gasolines, if they comply with the specifications described earlier. However, E85 (85% ethanol) and other fuels containing more than 10% ethanol must not be used in vehicles that were not designed for those fuels.

5-6

Notice: Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in the fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under your warranty. Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions can contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT. We recommend against the use of such gasolines. Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system could be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp might turn on. If this occurs, return to your dealer/retailer for service.

Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel might be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel would not be covered by your warranty. To check the fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you will be driving.

5-7

Filling the Tank

{CAUTION:

Fuel vapor burns violently and a fuel fire can cause bad injuries. To help avoid injuries to you and others, read and follow all the instructions on the pump island. Turn off your engine when you are refueling. Do not smoke if you are near fuel or refueling your vehicle. Do not use cellular phones. Keep sparks, flames, and smoking materials away from fuel. Do not leave the fuel pump unattended when refueling your vehicle. This is against the law in some places. Do not re-enter the vehicle while pumping fuel. Keep children away from the fuel pump; never let children pump fuel.

5-8

The tethered fuel cap is located behind a hinged fuel door on the driver’s side of the vehicle. To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly counterclockwise. While refueling, hang the tethered fuel cap from the hook on the fuel door.

{CAUTION:

Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. If you spill fuel and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any hiss noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.

Be careful not to spill fuel. Do not top off or overfill the tank and wait a few seconds after you have finished pumping before removing the nozzle. Clean fuel from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-103.

When replacing the fuel cap, turn it clockwise until it clicks. Make sure the cap is fully installed. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. If the fuel cap is not properly installed, the FUEL CAP message will appear on the Driver Information Center (DIC) and the check engine light will be lit on the instrument panel cluster. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-42 and Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-34 for more information.

{CAUTION:

If a fire starts while you are refueling, do not remove the nozzle. Shut off the flow of fuel by shutting off the pump or by notifying the station attendant. Leave the area immediately.

If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get

Notice: the right type. Your dealer/retailer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage your fuel tank and emissions system. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-34.

5-9

Checking Things Under the Hood

{CAUTION:

Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.

Filling a Portable Fuel Container

{CAUTION:

Never fill a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the fuel vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others:

(cid:129) Dispense fuel only into approved

containers.

(cid:129) Do not fill a container while it is inside a vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed, or on any surface other than the ground.

(cid:129) Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the

inside of the fill opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the filling is complete.

(cid:129) Do not smoke while pumping fuel. (cid:129) Do not use a cellular phone while

pumping fuel.

5-10

Hood Release To open the hood, do the following:

1. Pull the handle with

this symbol on it. It is located inside the vehicle on the lower left side of the instrument panel.

3. Lift the hood. 4. Release the hood prop from its retainer and put the hood prop into the slot in the hood.

Before closing the hood, be sure all the filler caps are on properly. Then lift the hood to relieve pressure on the hood prop. Remove the hood prop from the slot in the hood and return the prop to its retainer. Lower the hood 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm) above the vehicle and release it to latch fully. Check to make sure the hood is closed and repeat the procedure if necessary.

2. Release the secondary latch on the hood.

It is located below the front center of the hood.

5-11

Engine Compartment Overview When you open the hood on the 2.9L engine (3.7L engine similar), you will see the following:

5-12

A. Windshield Washer Fluid. See “Adding Washer

Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-37.

H. Remote Negative (−) Terminal (GND).

See Jump Starting on page 5-42.

B. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank.

See Engine Coolant on page 5-26.

C. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine

Air Cleaner/Filter on page 5-19.

D. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir (low in engine

compartment). See Power Steering Fluid on page 5-36.

E. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick (If Equipped).

See “Checking the Fluid Level” under Automatic Transmission Fluid on page 5-21.

F. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”

under Engine Oil on page 5-15.

G. Radiator Pressure Cap. See Cooling System

on page 5-31.

I. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”

under Engine Oil on page 5-15.

J. Remote Positive (+) Terminal. See Jump Starting

on page 5-42.

K. Brake Fluid Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid” under

Brakes on page 5-38.

L. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. See Engine

Compartment Fuse Block on page 5-111.

M. Battery. See Battery on page 5-41. N. Hydraulic Clutch Fluid Reservoir (If Equipped).

See Hydraulic Clutch on page 5-24.

5-13

When you open the hood on the 5.3L engine, you will see the following:

5-14

Engine Oil Checking Engine Oil It is a good idea to check the engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground. The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12
for the location of the engine oil dipstick. 1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you do not do this, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.

2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.

A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine

Air Cleaner/Filter on page 5-19.

B. Air Filter Restriction Indicator (If Equipped). See Engine Air Cleaner/Filter on page 5-19.

C. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding

Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-37.

D. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank. See Engine Coolant

on page 5-26.

E. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick (If Equipped).

See “Checking the Fluid Level” under Automatic Transmission Fluid on page 5-21.

F. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”

under Engine Oil on page 5-15.

G. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”

under Engine Oil on page 5-15.

H. Brake Fluid Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid” under

Brakes on page 5-38.

I. Battery. See Battery on page 5-41. J. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See Power Steering

Fluid on page 5-36.

K. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. See Engine

Compartment Fuse Block on page 5-111.

L. Radiator Pressure Cap. See Cooling System

on page 5-31.

5-15

When to Add Engine Oil

See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12
for the location of the engine oil fill cap.

Be sure to add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you are through.

If the oil is below the cross-hatched area (L), add at least one quart/liter of the recommended oil. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Specifications on page 5-116. Notice: Do not add too much oil. If the engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, the engine could be damaged.

5-16

What Kind of Engine Oil to Use

Look for three things: (cid:129) GM6094M

Your vehicle’s engine requires oil meeting GM Standard GM6094M. Look for and use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM6094M.

(cid:129) SAE 5W-30

As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-30
is best for your vehicle. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50.

(cid:129) Oils meeting these

requirements should have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API).

Look for this information on the oil container, and use only those oils that are identified as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and have the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. Notice: Use only engine oil identified as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and showing the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty. If you are in an area of extreme cold, where the temperature falls below −20°F (−29°C), it is recommended that you use either an SAE 5W-30
synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both provide easier cold starting and better protection for the engine at extremely low temperatures.

5-17

Engine Oil Additives Do not add anything to the oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol that meet GM Standard GM6094M are all you need for good performance and engine protection.

Engine Oil Life System When to Change Engine Oil Your vehicle has a computer system that lets you know when to change the engine oil and filter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change will be indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, you must reset the system every time the oil is changed. When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it will indicate that an oil change is necessary. A CHANGE OIL message will come on. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-42. Change the oil as soon as possible within the next 600 miles (1 000 km). It is possible that, if you are driving under the best conditions, the oil life system might not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, the engine oil and filter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset.

Your dealer/retailer has trained people who will perform this work using genuine parts and reset the system. It is also important to check the oil regularly and keep it at the proper level. If the system is ever reset accidentally, you must change the oil at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since your last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed. How to Reset the Engine Oil Life System The Engine Oil Life System calculates when to change the engine oil and filter based on vehicle use. Whenever the oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where you change the oil prior to a CHANGE OIL message being turned on, reset the system. To reset the Engine Oil Life system: 1. With the engine off, turn the ignition to ON/RUN. 2. Press and release the stem in the lower center

of the instrument cluster until the OIL LIFE message is displayed.

3. Once the alternating OIL LIFE and RESET messages appear, press and hold the stem until several beeps sound. This confirms that the oil life system has been reset.

4. Turn the key to LOCK/OFF.

5-18

If the CHANGE OIL message comes back on when you start your vehicle, the engine oil life system has not reset. Repeat the procedure. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-42. What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that can be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the filter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of used oil, ask your dealer/retailer, a service station, or a local recycling center for help.

Engine Air Cleaner/Filter

The engine air cleaner/filter is located in the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12
for more information on location.

5-19

{CAUTION:

Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps to stop flames if the engine backfires. If it is not there and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.

If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire

Notice: can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you are driving.

When to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Inspect the air cleaner/filter at the Maintenance II intervals and replace it at the first oil change after each 50,000 mile (80 000 km) interval. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 for more information. If you are driving in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect the filter at each engine oil change. How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter To inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/filter, do the following: 1. Unfasten the clips that hold the cover on and

remove the cover.

2. Lift out the engine air cleaner/filter. 3. Inspect or replace the air filter. See Normal

Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 6-14
to determine which filter to use.

4. Reinstall the engine air cleaner/filter cover. Fasten the clips to hold the cover in place.

5-20

Automatic Transmission Fluid When to Check and Change Automatic Transmission Fluid A good time to check your automatic transmission fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change the fluid and filter at the intervals listed in Additional Required Services on page 6-6, and be sure to use the transmission fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. How to Check Automatic Transmission Fluid Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealer/retailer service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick. Notice: Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Too little fluid could cause the transmission to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid.

Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission fluid level if you have been driving: (cid:129) When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C). (cid:129) At high speed for quite a while.

In heavy traffic — especially in hot weather.

(cid:129) While pulling a trailer. To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), drive the vehicle in THIRD (3) until the engine temperature gage moves and then remains steady for 10 minutes. A cold fluid check can be made after the vehicle has been sitting for eight hours or more with the engine off, but this is used only as a reference. Let the engine run at idle for five minutes if outside temperatures are 50°F (10°C) or more. If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), you may have to idle the engine longer. Should the fluid level be low during this cold check, you must check the fluid hot before adding fluid. Checking the fluid hot will give you a more accurate reading of the fluid level.

5-21

(cid:129) Checking the Fluid Level Prepare your vehicle as follows: 1. Park your vehicle on a level place.

Keep the engine running.

2. With the parking brake applied, place the

shift lever in PARK (P).

3. With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P).

4. Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more. Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps: 1. Flip the handle up and then pull out the dipstick

and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.

The automatic transmission dipstick handle with this symbol on it is located in the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle.

See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12
for more information on location.

2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds

and then pull it back out again.

5-22

3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower

level. The fluid level must be in the COLD area, below the cross-hatched area, for a cold check or in the HOT or cross-hatched area for a hot check. Be sure to keep the dipstick pointed down to get an accurate reading.

4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push

the dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.

How to Add Automatic Transmission Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transmission fluid to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. Add fluid only after checking the transmission fluid while it is hot. A cold check is used only as a reference. If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level up to the HOT area for a hot check. It does not take much fluid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Do not overfill. Notice: Use of the incorrect automatic transmission fluid may damage your vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use the automatic transmission fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. (cid:129) After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as described under “How to Check Automatic Transmission Fluid,” earlier in this section.

(cid:129) When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.

Manual Transmission Fluid When to Check A good time to have it checked is when the engine oil is changed. However, the fluid in your manual transmission does not require changing. How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at your GM dealer/retailer service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading. Notice: Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too little fluid could cause the transmission to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid. Check the fluid level only when your engine is off, the vehicle is parked on a level place and the transmission is cool enough for you to rest your fingers on the transmission case.

5-23

How to Add Fluid Here is how to add fluid. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of fluid to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. 1. Remove the filler plug. 2. Add fluid at the filler plug hole. Add only enough

fluid to bring the fluid level up to the bottom of the filler plug hole.

3. Install the filler plug. Be sure the plug is

fully seated.

Hydraulic Clutch The hydraulic clutch linkage in your vehicle is self-adjusting. The clutch master cylinder reservoir is filled with hydraulic clutch fluid.

Then, follow these steps:

1. Remove the filler plug. 2. Check that the lubricant level is up to the bottom of

the filler plug hole.

3. If the fluid level is good, install the plug and be sure

it is fully seated. If the fluid level is low, add more fluid as described in the next steps.

5-24

When to Check and What to Use

The hydraulic clutch fluid reservoir cap has this symbol on it. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for reservoir location.

It is not necessary to regularly check clutch fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system. Adding fluid will not correct a leak. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often you should check the fluid level in your clutch master cylinder reservoir and for the proper fluid. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. How to Check and Add Fluid The proper fluid should be added if the level does not reach the bottom of the diaphragm when it is in place in the reservoir. See the instructions on the reservoir cap.

5-25

Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at the first maintenance service after each 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle. What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL® coolant which will not damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you do not need to add anything else.

Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for five years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if you add only DEX-COOL® extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating on page 5-29. A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant will: (cid:129) Give freezing protection down to −34°F (−37°C). (cid:129) Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C). (cid:129) Protect against rust and corrosion. (cid:129) Help keep the proper engine temperature.

Let the warning lights and gages work as they should.

5-26

(cid:129) {CAUTION:

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and the proper coolant.

If you use an improper coolant mixture, your

Notice: engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core, and other parts. Notice: If you use extra inhibitors and/or additives in your vehicle’s cooling system, you could damage your vehicle. Use only the proper mixture of the engine coolant listed in this manual for the cooling system. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12 for more information.

Checking Coolant

The coolant recovery tank cap has this symbol on it.

It is located toward the rear of the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at FULL COLD, or a little higher. When your engine is warm, the level could be above the FULL COLD level.

5-27

Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture at the coolant recovery tank.

{CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.

Occasionally check the coolant level in the radiator. For information on how to add coolant to the radiator, see Cooling System on page 5-31.

{CAUTION:

Turning the radiator pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. With the coolant recovery tank, you will almost never have to add coolant at the radiator. Never turn the radiator pressure cap — even a little — when the engine and radiator are hot.

Add coolant mixture at the recovery tank, but be careful not to spill it.

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If the pressure cap is not tightly installed,

Radiator Pressure Cap Notice: coolant loss and possible engine damage may occur. Be sure the cap is properly and tightly secured. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.

Engine Overheating A coolant temperature gage is on the instrument panel. See Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 3-33. The air conditioning might stop working if the engine is too hot. This is normal and helps cool the engine.

If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine

{CAUTION:

Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool.

If your engine catches fire because you

Notice: keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty.

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If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning does not come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there is still no sign of steam, idle the engine for three minutes while you are parked. Push down the accelerator until the engine speed is about twice as fast as normal idle speed for at least three minutes while you are parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.

If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine If you get an engine overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: (cid:129) Climb a long hill on a hot day. (cid:129) Stop after high-speed driving. Idle for long periods in traffic. Tow a trailer. See “Driving on Grades” under Towing a Trailer on page 4-44.

If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in NEUTRAL while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL and let the engine idle.

2. Turn off the air conditioning. 3. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan

speed and open the windows as necessary.

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(cid:129) (cid:129) Cooling System When you decide it is safe to lift the hood, here is what you will see: 2.9L Engine Shown (3.7L Engine Similar)

When you decide it is safe to lift the hood, here is what you will see: 5.3L Engine

A. Coolant Recovery Tank B. Engine Cooling Fan C. Radiator Pressure Cap

A. Coolant Recovery Tank B. Radiator Pressure Cap C. Engine Cooling Fan If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface.

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{CAUTION:

Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.

If there seems to be no leak, start the engine again. The engine cooling fan speed should increase when idle speed is doubled by pushing the accelerator pedal down. If it does not, your vehicle needs service. Turn off the engine. Notice: Engine damage from running the engine without coolant is not covered by the warranty. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant could require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by the warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in the vehicle.

When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be at least up to the FULL COLD mark. If it is not, you may have a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system.

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How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Recovery Tank If you have not found a problem yet, but the coolant level is not at the FULL COLD mark, add a 50/50
mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® engine coolant at the coolant recovery tank. See Engine Coolant on page 5-26 for more information.

{CAUTION:

Adding only plain water to the cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. The vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, the engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. The engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.

In cold weather, water can freeze and crack

Notice: the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture.

{CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.

When the coolant in the coolant recovery tank is at the FULL COLD mark, start your vehicle.

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If the overheat warning continues, there is one more thing you can try. Add the proper mixture directly to the radiator, but be sure the cooling system is cool before you do it.

{CAUTION:

Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the radiator pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and radiator pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.

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How to Add Coolant to the Radiator

1. Remove the radiator pressure cap when the cooling system, including the upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise about one full turn. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.

2. Keep turning the cap to remove it. 3. Fill the radiator with the proper DEX-COOL®

coolant mixture, up to the base of the filler neck. See Engine Coolant on page 5-26 for more information about the proper coolant mixture.

4. Fill the coolant recovery tank to the

FULL COLD mark.

5. Reinstall the cap on the coolant recovery tank,

but leave the radiator pressure cap off.

6. Start the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fan.

7. By this time, the coolant level inside the radiator

filler neck might be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture through the filler neck until the level reaches the base of the filler neck.

8. Then replace the pressure cap. At any time during this procedure if coolant begins to flow out of the filler neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure to secure it tightly.

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Engine Fan Noise This vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide more air to cool the engine. In most everyday driving conditions, the clutch is not engaged. This improves fuel economy and reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing and/or high outside temperatures, the fan speed increases when the clutch engages. So you may hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and should not be mistaken as the transmission slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system functioning properly. The fan will slow down when additional cooling is not required and the clutch disengages. You may also hear this fan noise when you start the engine. It will go away as the fan clutch disengages.

Power Steering Fluid

The power steering fluid reservoir is located near the front of the engine compartment, behind the radiator. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for reservoir location.

When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. How to Check Power Steering Fluid 1. Turn the key off and let the engine compartment

cool down.

2. Wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean.

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3. Unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a

clean rag.

4. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. 5. Then remove the cap again and look at the fluid

level on the dipstick.

The level should be between the ADD and FULL marks. If necessary, add only enough fluid to bring the level up to the proper range. What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. Always use the proper fluid. Notice: Use of the incorrect fluid may damage your vehicle and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use the correct fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12.

Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing.

Adding Washer Fluid

Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer fluid until the tank is full. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for reservoir location.

Notice: (cid:129) When using concentrated washer fluid, follow the

manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.

(cid:129) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid.

Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer fluid. Fill the washer fluid tank only three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for fluid expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.

(cid:129) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage the vehicle’s windshield washer system and paint.

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(cid:129) It is not a good idea to top off the brake fluid. Adding brake fluid will not correct a leak. If fluid is added when the linings are worn, there will be too much fluid when new brake linings are installed. Add or remove brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

{CAUTION:

If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. See “Checking Brake Fluid” in this section.

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to check the brake fluid. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4.

Brakes Brake Fluid

The brake master cylinder reservoir is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12
for the location of the reservoir.

There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the