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In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle. Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking reasonable care suited to existing conditions, and by not “overdriving” those conditions. But skids are always possible. The three types of skids correspond to your vehicle’s three control systems. In the braking skid, your wheels aren’t rolling. In the steering or cornering skid, too much speed or steering in a curve causes tires to slip and lose cornering force. And in the acceleration skid, too much throttle causes the driving wheels to spin. A cornering skid and an acceleration skid are usually best handled by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal.
Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice, gravel or other material is on the road. For safety, you’ll want to slow down and adjust your driving to these conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and vehicle control more limited. While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try your best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration or braking (including engine braking by shifting to a lower gear). See “Diesel Engine Exhaust Brake” in the Index for information about using the exhaust brake on slippery surfaces. Any sudden changes could cause the tires to slide. You may not realize the surface is slippery until your vehicle is skidding. Learn to recognize warning clues -- such as enough water, ice or packed snow on the road to make a “mirrored surface” -- and slow down when you have any doubt. If you have the anti-lock braking system, remember: It helps avoid only the braking skid. If you do not have anti-lock, then in a braking skid (where the wheels are no longer rolling), release enough pressure on the brakes to get the wheels rolling again. This restores steering control. Push the brake pedal down steadily when you have to stop suddenly. As long as the wheels are rolling, you will have steering control.
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Driving at Night
Night driving is more dangerous than day driving. One reason is that some drivers are likely to be impaired -- by alcohol or drugs, with night vision problems, or by fatigue.
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Here are some tips on night driving. D Drive defensively. D Don’t drink and drive. D Since you can’t see as well, you may need to
slow down and keep more space between you and other vehicles.
D Slow down, especially on higher speed roads. Your
headlamps can light up only so much road ahead.
D In remote areas, watch for animals. D If you’re tired, pull off the road in a safe place
and rest.
Night Vision No one can see as well at night as in the daytime. But as we get older these differences increase. A 50-year-old driver may require at least twice as much light to see the same thing at night as a 20-year-old. What you do in the daytime can also affect your night vision. For example, if you spend the day in bright sunshine you are wise to wear sunglasses. Your eyes will have less trouble adjusting to night. But if you’re driving, don’t wear sunglasses at night. They may cut down on glare from headlamps, but they also make a lot of things invisible.
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You can be temporarily blinded by approaching headlamps. It can take a second or two, or even several seconds, for your eyes to readjust to the dark. When you are faced with severe glare (as from a driver who doesn’t lower the high beams, or a vehicle with misaimed headlamps), slow down a little. Avoid staring directly into the approaching headlamps. Keep your windshield and all the glass on your vehicle clean -- inside and out. Glare at night is made much worse by dirt on the glass. Even the inside of the glass can build up a film caused by dust. Dirty glass makes lights dazzle and flash more than clean glass would, making the pupils of your eyes contract repeatedly. Remember that your headlamps light up far less of a roadway when you are in a turn or curve. Keep your eyes moving; that way, it’s easier to pick out dimly lighted objects. Just as your headlamps should be checked regularly for proper aim, so should your eyes be examined regularly. Some drivers suffer from night blindness -- the inability to see in dim light -- and aren’t even aware of it.
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Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads
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Rain and wet roads can mean driving trouble. On a wet road, you can’t stop, accelerate or turn as well because your tire-to-road traction isn’t as good as on dry roads. And, if your tires don’t have much tread left, you’ll get even less traction. It’s always wise to go slower and be cautious if rain starts to fall while you are driving. The surface may get wet suddenly when your reflexes are tuned for driving on dry pavement.
The heavier the rain, the harder it is to see. Even if your windshield wiper blades are in good shape, a heavy rain can make it harder to see road signs and traffic signals, pavement markings, the edge of the road and even people walking. It’s wise to keep your wiping equipment in good shape and keep your windshield washer tank filled with washer fluid. Replace your windshield wiper inserts when they show signs of streaking or missing areas on the windshield, or when strips of rubber start to separate from the inserts.
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Driving too fast through large water puddles or even going through some vehicle washes can cause problems, too. The water may affect your brakes. Try to avoid puddles. But if you can’t, try to slow down before you hit them.
CAUTION:
Wet brakes can cause accidents. They won’t work as well in a quick stop and may cause pulling to one side. You could lose control of the vehicle. After driving through a large puddle of water or a vehicle wash, apply your brake pedal lightly until your brakes work normally.
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Hydroplaning Hydroplaning is dangerous. So much water can build up under your tires that they can actually ride on the water. This can happen if the road is wet enough and you’re going fast enough. When your vehicle is hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road. Hydroplaning doesn’t happen often. But it can if your tires do not have much tread or if the pressure in one or more is low. It can happen if a lot of water is standing on the road. If you can see reflections from trees, telephone poles or other vehicles, and raindrops “dimple” the water’s surface, there could be hydroplaning. Hydroplaning usually happens at higher speeds. There just isn’t a hard and fast rule about hydroplaning. The best advice is to slow down when it is raining.
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Driving Through Deep Standing Water
NOTICE:
If you drive too quickly through deep puddles or standing water, water can come in through your engine’s air intake and badly damage your engine. Never drive through water that is slightly lower than the underbody of your vehicle. If you can’t avoid deep puddles or standing water, drive through them very slowly.
Some Other Rainy Weather Tips D Turn on your low-beam headlamps and your marker and clearance lamps, if your vehicle has them -- not just your parking lamps -- to help make you more visible to others.
D Besides slowing down, allow some extra following distance. And be especially careful when you pass another vehicle. Allow yourself more clear room ahead, and be prepared to have your view restricted by road spray.
D Have good tires with proper tread depth.
(See “Tires” in the Index.)
City Driving
One of the biggest problems with city streets is the amount of traffic on them. You’ll want to watch out for what the other drivers are doing and pay attention to traffic signals.
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Here are ways to increase your safety in city driving: D Know the best way to get to where you are going. Get a city map and plan your trip into an unknown part of the city just as you would for a cross-country trip.
D Larger vehicles can’t be driven everywhere smaller
ones can. There are low underpasses, truck routes and other special situations. Usually these are well marked, so be sure to watch for the signs.
D Try to use the freeways that rim and crisscross most large cities. You’ll save time and energy. (See the next part, “Freeway Driving.”)
D Treat a green light as a warning signal. A traffic light is there because the corner is busy enough to need it. When a light turns green, and just before you start to move, check both ways for vehicles that have not cleared the intersection or may be running the red light.
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The most important advice on freeway driving is: Keep up with traffic and keep to the right. Drive at the same speed most of the other drivers are driving. Too-fast or too-slow driving breaks a smooth traffic flow. Treat the left lane on a freeway as a passing lane. At the entrance, there is usually a ramp that leads to the freeway. If you have a clear view of the freeway as you drive along the entrance ramp, you should begin to check traffic. Try to determine where you expect to blend with the flow. Try to merge into the gap at close to the prevailing speed. Switch on your turn signal, check your mirrors and try to blend smoothly with the traffic flow. Once you are on the freeway, adjust your speed to the posted limit or to the prevailing rate if it’s slower. Stay in the right lane unless you want to pass. On some freeways, larger vehicles aren’t allowed to use some lanes. These places usually are well-marked. Before changing lanes, check your mirrors. Then use your turn signal.
Freeway Driving
Mile for mile, freeways (also called thruways, parkways, expressways, turnpikes or superhighways) are the safest of all roads. But they have their own special rules.
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Once you are moving on the freeway, make certain you allow a reasonable following distance. Expect to move slightly slower at night. When you want to leave the freeway, move to the proper lane well in advance. If you miss your exit, do not, under any circumstances, stop and back up. Drive on to the next exit. The exit ramp can be curved, sometimes quite sharply. The exit speed for cars -- but not larger vehicles -- is usually posted. You should go more slowly. Reduce your speed according to your speedometer, not to your sense of motion. After driving for any distance at higher speeds, you may tend to think you are going slower than you actually are. Highway Hypnosis Is there actually such a condition as “highway hypnosis”? Or is it just plain falling asleep at the wheel? Call it highway hypnosis, lack of awareness, or whatever.
When you drive the vehicle for a long distance, there is something about an easy stretch of road with the same scenery, along with the hum of the tires on the road, the drone of the engine, and the rush of the wind against the vehicle that can make you sleepy. Don’t let it happen to you! If it does, your vehicle can leave the road in less than a second, and you could crash and be injured. What can you do about highway hypnosis? First, be aware that it can happen. Then here are some tips: D Make sure your vehicle is well ventilated, with a
comfortably cool interior.
D Keep your eyes moving. Scan the road ahead and
to the sides. Check your mirrors and your instruments frequently.
D If you get sleepy, pull off the road into a rest, service or parking area and take a nap, get some exercise, or both. For safety, treat drowsiness on the highway as an emergency.
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Here are some tips that can make your drive through steep country safer: D Keep the vehicle in good shape. Check all fluid
levels and also the brakes, tires, cooling system and transmission. These parts can work hard on mountain roads.
D Know how to go down hills. The most important
thing to know is this: let your engine do some of the slowing down. Shift to a lower gear when you go down a steep or long hill.
CAUTION:
If you don’t shift down, your brakes could get so hot that they wouldn’t work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Shift down to let your engine assist your brakes on a steep downhill slope.
Hill and Mountain Roads
Driving on steep hills or mountains is different from driving in flat or rolling terrain.
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D Stay in your own lane when driving on two-lane
roads in hills or mountains. Don’t swing wide or cut across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let you stay in your own lane.
D As you go over the top of a hill, be alert. There
could be something in your lane, like a stalled car or an accident.
D You may see highway signs on mountains that warn
of special problems. Examples are long grades, passing or no-passing zones, a falling rocks area, winding roads and special truck lanes. Be alert to these and take appropriate action.
CAUTION:
Coasting downhill in NEUTRAL (N) or with the ignition off is dangerous. Your brakes will have to do all the work of slowing down. They could get so hot that they wouldn’t work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Always have your engine running and your vehicle in gear when you go downhill.
D Know how to go uphill. Use lower gears. They help
cool your engine and transmission, and you can climb the hill better.
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Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a supply of windshield washer fluid, a rag, some winter outer clothing, a small shovel, a flashlight, a red cloth and reflective warning triangles. And, if you will be driving under severe conditions, include a small bag of sand, a piece of old carpet or a couple of burlap bags to help provide traction. Be sure you properly secure these items in your vehicle. Driving on Snow or Ice Most of the time, those places where your tires meet the road probably have good traction. However, if there is snow or ice between your tires and the road, you can have a very slippery situation. You’ll have a lot less traction or “grip” and will need to be very careful.
Winter Driving
Here are some tips for winter driving: D Be sure the vehicle is in good shape for winter. D You may want to put winter emergency supplies in
your vehicle.
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Whatever the condition -- smooth ice, packed, blowing or loose snow -- drive with caution. Accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction. If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and polish the surface under the tires even more. Unless you have the anti-lock braking system, you’ll want to brake very gently, too. (If you do have anti-lock, see “Anti-Lock” in the Index. This system improves your vehicle’s stability when you make a hard stop on a slippery road.) Whether you have the anti-lock braking system or not, you’ll want to begin stopping sooner than you would on dry pavement. Without anti-lock brakes, if you feel your vehicle begin to slide, let up on the brakes a little. Push the brake pedal down steadily to get the most traction you can.
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What’s the worst time for this? “Wet ice.” Very cold snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice can be even more trouble because it may offer the least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it’s about freezing (32_F; 0_C) and freezing rain begins to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews can get there.
Remember, unless you have anti-lock, if you brake so hard that your wheels stop rolling, you’ll just slide. Brake so your wheels always keep rolling and you can still steer. D Whatever your braking system, allow greater
following distance on any slippery road.
D Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine until you hit a spot that’s covered with ice. On an otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in shaded areas where the sun can’t reach: around clumps of trees, behind buildings or under bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass may remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you are on it. Try not to brake while you’re actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers.
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If You’re Caught in a Blizzard
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If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a serious situation. You should probably stay with your vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near help and you can hike through the snow. Here are some things to do to summon help and keep yourself and your passengers safe: D Turn on your hazard flashers.
D Tie a red cloth to your mirror arm to alert police that
you’ve been stopped by the snow.
D Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around you. If you have no blankets or extra clothing, make body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags, floor mats -- anything you can wrap around yourself or tuck under your clothing to keep warm.
You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.
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CAUTION:
Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you. You can’t see it or smell it, so you might not know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle if any is blocking your exhaust pipe. And check around again from time to time to be sure snow doesn’t collect there. Open a window just a little on the side of the vehicle that’s away from the wind. This will help keep CO out.
Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps the battery (or batteries) charged. You will need a well-charged battery (or batteries) to restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with your headlamps. Let the heater run for a while.
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If you have a diesel engine, you may have to run it at a higher speed to get enough heat. Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again and repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or so until help comes.
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Loading Your Vehicle The GVW/Tire Information label is found on the rear edge of the driver’s door. The label shows the size of your original tires and the inflation pressures needed to obtain the gross weight capacity of your vehicle.
This is called the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel and cargo.
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The Certification/Tire label is provided by the final manufacturer and should be on the door or door jamb. It also tells you the maximum weights for the front and rear axles, called Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). To find out the actual loads on your front and rear axles, you need to go to a weigh station and weigh your vehicle. Your dealer can help you with this. Be sure to spread out your load equally on both sides of the centerline. Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle, or the GAWR for either the front or rear axle. And, if you do have a heavy load, you should spread it out.
CAUTION:
Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the GVWR, or either the maximum front or rear GAWR. If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle.
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Using heavier suspension components to get added durability might not change your weight ratings. Ask your dealer to help you load your vehicle the right way.
CAUTION:
NOTICE:
Your warranty does not cover parts or components that fail because of overloading.
If you put things inside your vehicle -- like suitcases, tools, packages or anything else -- they will go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they’ll keep going.
Things you put inside your vehicle can strike and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or in a crash. D Put things in the cargo area of your vehicle.
Try to spread the weight evenly.
D Never stack heavier things, like suitcases, inside the vehicle so that some of them are above the tops of the seats.
D Don’t leave an unsecured child restraint in
your vehicle.
D When you carry something inside the
vehicle, secure it whenever you can.
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Power Take-Off (PTO) (If Equipped) Before using a PTO, refer to the body builder’s or operator’s instructions. To engage a PTO: 1. Make sure the vehicle is stopped. 2. Shift the transmission into NEUTRAL (N) or
PARK (P), if equipped.
3. The brake or clutch pedal must be pressed and
released once before PTO can be enabled. Do not hold the brake or clutch pedal down.
4. The cruise control switch must be in ON prior to
engaging the PTO switch to enable PTO operation. This sets the PTO base engine idle at 1200 rpm.
5. Use SET/COAST to change the engine speed to the
lower preset value of 1400 rpm. Use RESUME/ACCEL to change the engine speed to the upper preset value of 1800 rpm. You may toggle between upper and lower by moving the switch between SET/COAST and RESUME/ACCEL. The PTO will become inoperative when any of the conditions are changed or the CHECK GAGES light comes on.
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- NOTES
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Section 5 Problems on the Road
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Here you’ll find what to do about some problems that can occur on the road.
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5-20Hazard Warning Flashers Other Warning Devices Jump Starting Towing Your Vehicle Engine Overheating Cooling System (Gasoline Engine)
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5-37Cooling System (Diesel Engine) Engine Fan Noise If a Tire Goes Flat Changing a Flat Tire If You’re Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow
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Hazard Warning Flashers
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Press the button in to make your front and rear turn signal lamps flash on and off. Your hazard warning flashers work no matter what position your key is in, and even if the key isn’t in. To turn off the flashers, pull out on the collar. When the hazard warning flashers are on, your turn signals won’t work.
Your hazard warning flashers let you warn others. They also let police know you have a problem. Your front and rear turn signal lamps will flash on and off. The hazard flasher switch is located on the steering column.
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Hazard Warning Flasher Switch (If Equipped)
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With some options, such as U86-trailer wiring or RQ3-tractor application, you will have this switch. This switch replaces the hazard switch mounted on the steering column. It is mounted in the instrument panel, usually to the left of and below the steering column. Pull the switch out to make your front and rear turn signal lamps flash on and off. A light next to the switch will also flash. Push it back in to turn off the flashers. The turn signal lamps won’t flash if you’re braking. This switch works no matter what position the key is in, and even if the key isn’t in the ignition. When the hazard warning flashers are on, your turn signals won’t work.
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Signal-Stat Turn Signal and Hazard Warning Flasher (If Equipped) If you have this system, it lets you warn others. It also lets police know you have a problem. It makes your front and rear turn signal lamps flash on and off, but they won’t flash if you’re braking. The switch is on the end of the signal-stat housing.
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To turn off the flasher, move the turn signal lever either up or down. Then move the signal lever back to the center position.
When the hazard warning flashers are on, your turn signals won’t work. Other Warning Devices If you carry reflective triangles, you can set one up at the side of the road behind your vehicle in the recommended manner per FMCSR (Federal Motor Carrier Safety Regulation) Section 392.22, to warn others.
To make it work, pull out on the hazard lever until it locks into place. It works no matter what position your key is in, and even if the key isn’t in.
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Jump Starting If your battery (or batteries) has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. But please follow the steps below to do it safely.
CAUTION:
Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because: D They contain acid that can burn you. D They contain gas that can explode or ignite. D They contain enough electricity to
burn you.
NOTICE:
Ignoring these steps could result in costly damage to your vehicle that wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. The ACDelco FreedomR battery in your vehicle has a built-in hydrometer. Do not charge, test or jump start the battery if the hydrometer looks clear or light yellow. Replace the battery when there is a clear or light yellow hydrometer and a cranking complaint. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it won’t work, and it could damage your vehicle.
If you don’t follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.
1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt
battery with a negative ground system.
NOTICE:
If the other system isn’t a 12-volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged.
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If you have a diesel engine vehicle with two batteries (or more), you should know before you begin that, especially in cold weather, you may not be able to get enough power from a single battery in another vehicle to start your diesel engine. If your vehicle has more than one battery, use the battery that’s closest to the starter -- this will reduce electrical resistance.
CAUTION:
If your vehicle has air conditioning, the auxiliary electric fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.
2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles aren’t touching each other. You wouldn’t be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems.
3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Turn off all
lamps that aren’t needed, as well as radios. This will
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avoid sparks and help save both batteries, and it could save your radio.
4. Locate the batteries on each vehicle. Find the
positive (+) and negative (-) terminals on each battery.
CAUTION:
Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the batteries have enough water. You don’t need to add water to the ACDelco FreedomR battery (or batteries) installed in every new GM vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you don’t, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Don’t get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.
5. Check that the jumper cables don’t have loose or
missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged, too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) and negative (-) will go to a metal engine part or some other well-grounded part. Don’t connect positive (+) to negative (-) or you’ll get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts, too.
CAUTION:
Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.
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6. Connect the red
positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the vehicle with the dead battery.
7. Don’t let the other end
touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery.
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8. Now connect the black
negative (-) cable to the good battery’s negative (-) terminal.
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9. Attach the cable at least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, but the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less.
Don’t let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (-) cable doesn’t go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted, metal part on the engine, or some other well-grounded part of the vehicle with the dead battery.
10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run
the engine for one to two minutes. If your vehicle has the high idle option, use it.
11. Try to start the vehicle with the dead battery. If it won’t start after a few tries, it probably needs service.
12. Remove the cables in reverse order to prevent
electrical shorting. Take care that they don’t touch each other or any other metal.
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A. Heavy Metal Engine Part B. Good Battery C. Dead Battery
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Towing Your Vehicle Try to have a GM dealer or a professional towing service tow your vehicle. They can provide the right equipment and know-how to tow it without damage. Before you do anything, turn on the hazard warning flashers (if they have not been damaged). When you call, tell the towing service: D The make, model and year of your vehicle. D Whether you can still move the shift lever. D If there was an accident, what was damaged. When the towing service arrives, let the tow operator know that this manual contains detailed towing instructions. The operator may want to see them.
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Towing Your Vehicle From the Front (Front Wheels Off the Ground)
Before Towing Block the rear wheels of the disabled vehicle. On vehicles with air brakes, release the emergency brake system by compressing the brake chamber springs as outlined in this section. (Note: This is to prevent the possibility of the emergency brake being applied during towing.) On vehicles with hydraulic brakes without an electric/hydraulic parking brake, release the parking brake fully by moving the lever to the fully-released position. On vehicles equipped with an electric/hydraulic parking brake option, remove the propshaft.
CAUTION:
To help avoid injury to you or others: D Never let passengers ride in a vehicle that is
being towed.
D Never tow faster than safe or posted speeds. D Never tow with damaged parts not
fully secured.
D Never get under your vehicle after it has
been lifted.
D Always use separate safety chains on each
side when towing a vehicle.
If your vehicle uses dragfoilers, be sure to have the dragfoiler-to-cab mounting bracket bolts tightened after your vehicle has been towed. Here are specific towing instructions:
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Towing the Vehicle with the Front Bumper Removed 1. Remove the front bumper. 2. Connect and lock the lift chains to the front axle,
outside of the spring anchor plates as shown.
4. Connect lift chains to the tow bar and raise the tow bar until lift chain slack has been taken up and the hardwood beam is fully seated against the spring shackle brackets as shown.
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A. Spring Anchor Plate B. Lift Chain C. Front Axle 3. Place a 6″ x 6″ x 5i hardwood beam underneath and
slightly behind the front spring shackle brackets.
A. Shackle Bracket B. Tow Bar C. Lift Chain D. Hardwood Beam 5. Raise the vehicle to the required height.
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Towing the Vehicle with the Front Bumper Installed 1. Connect and lock the lift chains to the front axle,
outside of the spring anchor plates as previously shown.
2. Place a 6″ x 6″ x 5i hardwood beam underneath and slightly behind the front spring shackle brackets as previously shown.
3. Connect the lift chains to the tow bar and take up the
slack in the chains until the tow bar is within 4″ of the front bumper facing. Place a 2″ x 12″ x 40″ hardwood board with rubber pads against the front bumper and secure as shown.
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A. Rubber Pad B. Hardwood Board C. Shackle Bracket D. Lift Chain
E. Hardwood Beam F. Bumper G. Tow Bar
4. Remove the remaining slack in the lift chains. The tow bar swing arm should rest against the 2″ x 12″ x 40″ hardwood board as shown.
A. Hardwood Board B. Swing Arm 5. Raise the vehicle to the required height.
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Single Drive Rear Axle Disconnect the propshaft at the rear axle. Secure the propshaft to the frame or crossmember. Tandem Drive Rear Axles -- Forward Axle Off the Ground Raise the front of the vehicle until the forward tandem axle wheels are off the ground. Remove the rearward propshaft. Tandem Drive Rear Axle -- Both Axles on the Ground Due to Type of Suspension or Attached Load Disconnect the propshaft at the forward tandem axle. Secure the propshaft to the frame or crossmember. If there is damage or suspected damage to the axle(s), remove all axle shafts. Cover the hub openings to prevent the loss of lubricant or entry of dirt or foreign objects.
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After Towing Block the rear wheels and install axle and propeller shafts. Check for proper phasing of universal joints. Apply the emergency brake system before disconnecting from the towing vehicle. Check and fill the rear axle with oil as required. Towing Your Vehicle From the Front (All Wheels On the Ground) Your vehicle may be towed on all wheels provided the steering is working. Remember that the power brakes and power steering will not have power assist. Vehicles with air brakes will not have brakes. There must be a tow bar installed between the towing vehicle and the disabled vehicle.
Before Towing Block the wheels of the disabled vehicle. On vehicles with air brakes, release the emergency brake system by compressing the brake chamber springs as outlined in this section. (Note: This is to prevent the possibility of the emergency brake being applied during towing.)
On vehicles with hydraulic brakes, release the parking brake fully by moving the lever to the fully-released position. On vehicles equipped with an electric/hydraulic parking brake, remove the propshaft. Disconnect the propshaft at the rear axle (forward axle on tandem axle models). Secure the propshaft to the frame or crossmember. If there is damage or suspected damage to the axle(s), remove the axle shafts. Cover the hub openings to prevent the loss of lubricant or entry of dirt or foreign objects.
After Towing Block the rear wheels and install axle and propshafts. Check for proper phasing of universal joints. Apply the parking brake system before disconnecting from the towing vehicle. Check and fill rear axle with oil as required.
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Releasing Air-Operated Parking Brakes If your vehicle has air brakes, you could have a special towing problem. If your vehicle has to be towed because you had a complete loss of air pressure from both systems, the parking brakes may have applied. The tow operator can release the brakes manually by using the following steps. Then your vehicle can be towed with all wheels or just the rear wheels on the ground.
Towing Your Vehicle From the Rear (Rear Wheels Off the Ground)
Before Towing Secure the steering wheel to maintain a straight-ahead position. Make certain that the front axle is not loaded above the front axle Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) as indicated on the vehicle’s Certification/Tire label.
After Towing Block the rear wheels and release the steering. Apply the parking brake system before disconnecting from the towing vehicle. Refer to the transmission shift label for additional information.
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1. Block the wheels of the vehicle.
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2. Remove the release stud and nut from the side of the brake chamber. Some chambers have studs which are visible at all times.
CAUTION:
D Working on air brakes without first using the release studs to compress the springs can lead to injury. Never work on the air brake chambers without first using the release studs to compress the brake springs.
D When the brake springs are manually compressed, you will have no brakes. Release your air-operated parking brakes manually only to tow the vehicle. Never drive the vehicle with the brakes released.
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3. Remove the rubber cap from the rear of the chamber.
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6. Using a wrench, turn the
stud nut clockwise several turns to release the brakes. Follow the same procedure to release the other brake.
4. Put the release stud, nut and flat washer into
the chamber.
5. Turn the stud clockwise a quarter of a turn.
7. At the repair facility, apply air pressure of at least 70 psi (480 kPa) to the brake chambers, either from an external air supply or the vehicle’s air system. 8. Turn the stud nut counterclockwise several turns.
Remove the stud from the chamber.
9. Put the stud into the side of the chamber, and replace
the rubber cap.
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Engine Overheating You will find a coolant temperature warning gage on your vehicle’s instrument panel, as well as a LOW COOLANT warning light. Your vehicle also has a CHECK GAGES warning light on the instrument panel.
If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine
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CAUTION:
Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool.
NOTICE:
If your engine catches fire because you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty.
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If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning doesn’t come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there’s still no sign of steam, push down the accelerator until the engine speed is about twice as fast as normal idle speed for at least three minutes while you’re parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.
If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine If you get an engine overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: D Climb a long hill on a hot day. D Stop after high-speed driving. D Idle for long periods in traffic. If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. If you have an air conditioner and it’s on, turn it off. 2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan
speed and open the window as necessary.
3. If you’re in a traffic jam, shift to NEUTRAL (N);
otherwise, shift to the highest gear while driving -- DRIVE (D) for automatic transmissions.
4. If climbing a hill, downshift to raise engine and
fan speeds.
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Cooling System (Gasoline Engine) When you decide it’s safe to lift the hood, here’s what you’ll see:
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Sloped Hood
A. Engine Fan B. Coolant Recovery Tank C. Radiator Pressure Cap
Specialty Hood
A. Coolant Recovery Tank B. Radiator Pressure Cap C. Engine Fan
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CAUTION:
If your vehicle has air conditioning, the auxiliary electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.
If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, don’t do anything else until it cools down.
Specialty Hood
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The coolant level should be above the HOT LEVEL mark on the vehicle with the specialty hood, or at or above the COLD LEVEL mark on the vehicle with the sloped hood.
Sloped Hood
If it isn’t, you may have a leak in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system.
CAUTION:
Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Don’t touch them. If you do, you can be burned.
CAUTION: (Continued)
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CAUTION: (Continued)
NOTICE: (Continued)
Don’t run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.
NOTICE:
Engine damage from running your engine without coolant isn’t covered by your warranty.
NOTICE:
When adding coolant, it is important that you use only DEX-COOLR (silicate-free) coolant.
NOTICE: (Continued)
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If coolant other than DEX-COOL is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine coolant will require change sooner -- at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Damage caused by the use of coolant other than DEX-COOLR is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.
If there seems to be no leak, start the engine again. See if the engine cooling fan speed increases when idle speed is doubled by pushing the accelerator pedal down. If it doesn’t, your vehicle needs service. Turn off the engine. How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Recovery Tank If you haven’t found a problem yet, but the coolant level isn’t at or above the HOT LEVEL mark on the vehicle with the specialty hood, or at or above the COLD LEVEL mark on the vehicle with the sloped hood, add a 50/50
mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOLR engine coolant at the coolant recovery tank. (See “Engine Coolant” in the Index for more information.)CAUTION:
Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid like alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOLR coolant.
NOTICE:
In cold weather, water can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture.
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Specialty Hood
Sloped Hood
CAUTION:
You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.
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When the coolant in the coolant recovery tank is at the HOT LEVEL mark on the vehicle with the specialty hood, or approximately half full on the vehicle with the sloped hood, start your vehicle. If the overheat warning continues, there’s one more thing you can try. You can add the proper coolant mixture directly to the radiator, but be sure the cooling system is cool before you do it.
CAUTION:
Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the radiator pressure cap -- even a little -- they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and radiator pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.
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How to Add Coolant to the Radiator
1. You can remove the radiator pressure cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot.
Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise until it first stops. (Don’t press down while turning the pressure cap.) If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.
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2. Then keep turning
the pressure cap, but now push down as you turn it. Remove the pressure cap.
3. Fill the radiator with the
proper DEX-COOLR coolant mixture, up to the base of the filler neck. (See “Engine Coolant” in the Index for more information about the proper coolant mixture.)
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8. Then replace the pressure cap. At any time during this procedure if coolant begins to flow out of the filler neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure the arrows on the pressure cap line up like this.
4. Then fill the coolant recovery tank to the HOT
LEVEL mark on the vehicle with the specialty hood, or approximately one-half full on the vehicle with the sloped hood.
5. Put the cap back on the coolant recovery tank, but
leave the radiator pressure cap off.
6. Start the engine and
let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fan(s).
7. By this time, the coolant level inside the radiator filler neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper DEX-COOLR coolant mixture through the filler neck until the level reaches the base of the filler neck.
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Cooling System (Diesel Engine) When you decide it’s safe to lift the hood, here’s what you’ll see:
CAUTION:
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If your vehicle has air conditioning, the auxiliary electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.
If the coolant inside the coolant surge tank is boiling, don’t do anything else until it cools down.
CaterpillarR Diesel Engine
A. Engine Fan B. Coolant Surge Tank
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The coolant level should be at COLD ADD or higher. If it isn’t, you may have a leak in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system.
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CAUTION:
Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Don’t touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Don’t run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.
NOTICE:
Engine damage from running your engine without coolant isn’t covered by your warranty.
If there seems to be no leak, start the engine again. See if the fan speed increases when idle speed is doubled by pushing the accelerator pedal down. If it doesn’t, your vehicle needs service. Turn off the engine.
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Engine
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How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Surge Tank If you haven’t found a problem yet, but the coolant level isn’t at the COLD ADD mark or higher, add a 50/50
mixture of clean, drinkable water and coolant at the coolant surge tank, but be sure the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is cool before you do it. (See the CaterpillarR Operation & Maintenance Manual for the proper engine coolant to use.)CAUTION:
Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the coolant surge tank pressure cap -- even a little -- they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and coolant surge tank pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.
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CAUTION:
NOTICE:
Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid like alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and coolant.
In cold weather, water can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. So use the recommended coolant.
CAUTION:
You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.
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1. You can remove the coolant surge tank pressure cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise until it first stops. (Don’t press down while turning the pressure cap.) If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.
2. Then keep turning the cap, but now push down as
you turn it. Remove the pressure cap.
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4. With the coolant surge tank pressure cap off, start the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine fan.
3. Then fill the coolant surge tank with the proper coolant mixture, up to the COLD FULL mark.
By this time, the coolant level inside the coolant surge tank may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper mixture to the coolant surge tank until the level reaches the COLD FULL mark.
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5. Then replace the pressure cap. Be sure the arrows on
the pressure cap line up like this.
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Engine Fan Noise Your vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide more air to cool the engine. In most everyday driving conditions, the clutch is not fully engaged. This improves fuel economy and reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing and/or high outside temperatures, the fan speed increases when the clutch engages. So you may hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and should not be mistaken as the transmission slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system functioning properly. The fan will slow down when additional cooling is not required and the clutch disengages. You may also hear this fan noise when you start the engine. It will go away as the fan clutch disengages.
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If a Tire Goes Flat It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving, especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane. A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you’d use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop -- well off the road if possible. If a tire goes flat, the next part tells you what to do. Changing a Flat Tire A flat or damaged tire can be a major roadside problem. You’re very likely to have to go for help. Few drivers of these vehicles have the necessary equipment aboard to be able to change a flat tire safely. For example, you
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have to have a truck jack that can lift several thousand pounds and a torque wrench that can generate several hundred foot-pounds (newton-meters) of twisting force. So if you’re stopped somewhere by a flat or damaged tire or wheel, you should get expert help right then. If the correct equipment is available, though, here is the procedure to follow. D Does the tire still seem to have air under pressure in it? If so, stand to the side and look at the wheel. See if it looks like another wheel on the vehicle. If so, go on to the next step. If it doesn’t, or even if you can’t be sure, stop and get expert help.
CAUTION:
Tire-rim assemblies can explode. If you work on a pressurized tire mounted on a damaged wheel, the assembly can expand with explosive force without warning. You and others nearby can be badly injured. Don’t work around a tire that has air under pressure in it when its wheel is or might be damaged.
D If the wheel looks normal, see if the wheel has side
rings and a lock ring around the wheel rim. If so, they must be seated properly. You can compare with another wheel on the vehicle as you check for this. For dual wheels, you have to look between the tires to make this check. You may not be able to tell if the side rings or lock rings are seated properly by looking. If you can’t be sure, stop and get expert help.
CAUTION:
If you work on a pressurized tire mounted on a damaged wheel, the assembly can expand with explosive force without warning. You and others nearby can be badly injured. Don’t work around a tire that has air under pressure in it when its lock ring or side ring might not be properly seated.
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CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from the places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off.
D If the lock ring and side rings seem to be seated
properly (or if the wheel doesn’t have these), let the air out of the tire. You can do this by taking out the valve core.
D If the flat or damaged tire is one of a dual set, let the
air out of both tires of the dual before you take off the damaged tire and rim assembly.
D If you have the correct equipment, put on the spare
wheel and tire assembly.
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CAUTION:
Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If you do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel could fall off, causing a serious accident.
CAUTION:
D There are many ways to be hurt badly, or be killed, while you are trying to change a truck tire and rim. Follow all of the safety precautions on the truck jack and other equipment.
CAUTION: (Continued)
CAUTION: (Continued)
D If you try to put air back into a tire that has run flat, or even a tire that was quite low on air, without first finding out why it was low or flat, the tire can have a sudden air-out. This could cause you to lose control of the vehicle and have a serious crash. Don’t refill a flat or very low tire with air without first having the tire taken off the wheel and checked for damage.
D Use a clip-on chuck and hose extension when you add air to your tires. You’ll need an accurate truck tire pressure gage. Stand to one side and add the air. Be sure you don’t go over the top inflation pressure for the tire.
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CAUTION:
Incorrect wheel nuts or improperly tightened wheel nuts can cause the wheel to become loose and even come off. This could lead to an accident. Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts. If you have to replace them, be sure to get new GM original equipment wheel nuts. Stop somewhere as soon as you can and have the nuts tightened with a torque wrench. See “Tightening the Wheel Nuts” in the Index for the proper torque for your particular wheel.
NOTICE:
Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque specification.
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If You’re Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you will need to spin the wheels, but you don’t want to spin your wheels too fast. The method known as “rocking” can help you get out when you’re stuck, but you must use caution.
CAUTION:
If you let your tires spin at high speed, they can explode, and you or others could be injured. And, the transmission or other parts of the vehicle can overheat. That could cause an engine compartment fire or other damage. When you’re stuck, spin the wheels as little as possible. Don’t spin the wheels above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.
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NOTICE:
Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting your transmission back and forth, you can destroy your transmission.
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Rocking Your Vehicle To Get It Out First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will clear the area around your front wheels. Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear (or with a manual transmission, between FIRST (1) or SECOND (2) and REVERSE (R)), spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear. By slowly spinning your wheels in the forward and reverse directions, you will cause a rocking motion that may free your vehicle. If that doesn’t get you out after a few tries, you may need to be towed out. If you do need to be towed out, see “Towing Your Vehicle” in the Index.
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- NOTES
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- NOTES
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- NOTES
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- NOTES
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Section 6 Service and Appearance Care
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Here you will find information about the care of your vehicle. This section begins with service and fuel information, and then it shows how to check important fluid and lubricant levels. There is also technical information about your vehicle, and a part devoted to its appearance care.
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6-22Service Fuel (Gasoline Engine) Diesel Fuel Requirements and Fuel System Fuels in Foreign Countries (Gasoline Engines) Filling Your Tank Filling a Portable Fuel Container Checking Things Under the Hood Noise Control System Engine Oil (Gasoline Engine) Engine Oil (CaterpillarR Diesel Engine) Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Automatic Transmission Fluid Manual Transmission Fluid Rear Axle Rear Axle Shift Motor (Option) Radiator Pressure Cap (Gasoline Engines) Surge Tank Pressure Cap (Diesel Engines) Thermostat
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6-77Engine Coolant (Gasoline Engine) Engine Coolant (CaterpillarR Diesel Engine) Power Steering Fluid Windshield Washer Fluid Brakes Electric/Hydraulic Parking Brake Fluid Battery Other Service Items Tires Appearance Care Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle Cleaning the Outside Your Vehicle GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) Service Parts Identification Label Electrical System Capacities and Specifications Air Conditioning Refrigerants
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Service Your dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you’ll go to your dealer for all your service needs. You’ll get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. We hope you’ll want to keep your GM vehicle all GM. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:
Doing Your Own Service Work If you want to do some of your own service work, you’ll want to use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see “Service and Owner Publications” in the Index. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See “Maintenance Record” in the Index.
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CAUTION:
You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it. D Be sure you have sufficient knowledge,
experience, the proper replacement parts and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task.
D Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts and other fasteners. “English” and “metric” fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.
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Two Safety Cautions about Engine Fan Breakage
CAUTION:
Changing the Fan Drive Ratio or Engine Governed Speed If you change the fan drive ratio or increase the governed speed of the engine, you may increase stress on the engine fan and the fan could eventually fail. If the fan breaks apart while it is rotating, the flying pieces can cause severe injury to anyone -- such as a service technician -- who is nearby. And, of course, the pieces can severely damage the vehicle. Don’t change the fan drive ratio or increase the governed speed of the vehicle without getting the necessary information from your dealer.
CAUTION: (Continued)
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CAUTION: (Continued)
Winter Fronts, Grille Covers or Obstructions Winter fronts, grille covers or other add-on equipment causing obstructions in front or behind the fan should not be used on this vehicle. They may increase the stress on the fan as the blades pass over the covered areas. If this causes the fan to eventually break apart while it is rotating, the pieces can cause severe injury to anyone nearby, such as a service technician working on the engine, and of course the pieces can severely damage the vehicle.
If your vehicle is equipped with the optional radiator shutters, see “Radiator Shutters” in the Index.
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Fuel (Gasoline Engine) If your vehicle has a diesel engine, see “Diesel Engine Fuel” in this section. For vehicles with gasoline engines, please read this. Use regular unleaded gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher. It is recommended that the gasoline meet specifications which have been developed by the American Automobile Manufacturers Association (AAMA) and endorsed by the Canadian Motor Vehicle Manufacturers Association for better vehicle performance and engine protection. Gasolines meeting the AAMA specification could provide improved driveability and emission control system performance compared to other gasolines. For more information, write to: American Automobile Manufacturer’s Association, 7430 Second Ave, Suite 300, Detroit MI 48202. Be sure the posted octane is at least 87. If the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If it’s bad enough, it can damage your engine.
If you’re using fuel rated at 87 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service. But don’t worry if you hear a little pinging noise when you’re accelerating or driving up a hill. That’s normal, and you don’t have to buy a higher octane fuel to get rid of pinging. It’s the heavy, constant knock that means you have a problem. Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask your service station operator whether or not the fuel contains MMT. General Motors does not recommend the use of such gasolines. If fuels containing MMT are used, spark plug life may be reduced and your emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp on your instrument panel may turn on. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for service.
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To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that will help prevent deposits from forming in your engine and fuel system, allowing your emission control system to function properly. Therefore, you should not have to add anything to the fuel. In addition, gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in your area to contribute to clean air. General Motors recommends that you use these gasolines, particularly if they comply with the specifications described earlier.
NOTICE:
Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Don’t use it. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage wouldn’t be covered under your warranty.
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Diesel Fuel Requirements and Fuel System Diesel Engine Fuel See your CaterpillarR Operator & Maintenance Manual for information concerning fuel usage. Water in Fuel Sometimes, water can be pumped into your fuel tank along with your diesel fuel. This can happen if a service station doesn’t regularly inspect and clean its fuel tanks, or if it gets contaminated fuel from its suppliers. If this happens, water must be drained. Your dealer can show you how to do this.
CAUTION:
Diesel fuel containing water is still flammable. You could be burned. If you ever try to drain water from your fuel, keep sparks, flames and smoking materials away from the mixture.
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NOTICE:
If there is water in your diesel fuel and the weather is warm or humid, fungus and bacteria can grow in the fuel. They can damage your fuel system. You’ll need a diesel fuel biocide to sterilize your fuel system. Your dealer can advise you if you ever need this. If your fuel tank needs to be purged to remove water, see your dealer or a qualified technician. Improper purging can damage your fuel system.
Diesel engine vehicles that stand unused for several days or weeks can develop water in the fuel from condensation. It helps to fill the fuel tank if the diesel engine vehicle will not be used for a time.
Fuels in Foreign Countries (Gasoline Engines) If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. To check on fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you’ll be driving. You can also write us at the following address for advice. Just tell us where you’re going and give your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN).
General Motors Overseas Distribution Corporation 1908 Colonel Sam Drive Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7
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Filling Your Tank
CAUTION:
Fuel vapor is highly flammable. It burns violently, and that can cause very bad injuries. Don’t smoke if you’re near gasoline or diesel fuel, or if you’re refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, flames and smoking materials away from gasoline or diesel fuel.
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The fuel cap can be on either or both sides of your vehicle depending on option content. To take off the cap, turn it slowly to the left (counterclockwise).
CAUTION:
Gasoline Engine Vehicles: If you get gasoline on you and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. Gasoline can spray out on you if you open the fuel filler cap too quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel filler cap slowly and wait for any “hiss” noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.
When you put the cap back on, turn it to the right until it is tight.
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NOTICE:
If you need a new cap, be sure to get the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit or have proper venting, and your fuel tank and emissions system might be damaged.
If you have dual tanks, fill the driver’s side first. The fuel gage will give better readings this way. Your gage will show the average level of both tanks combined.
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Filling a Portable Fuel Container
CAUTION:
Never fill a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others: D Dispense gasoline only into
approved containers.
D Do not fill a container while it is inside a
vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed or on any surface other than the ground. D Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the
inside of the fill opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the filling is complete.
D Don’t smoke while pumping gasoline.
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Checking Things Under the Hood
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To tilt the hood forward, pull out on each of the hood latches. If the hood is equipped with hood access panels, make sure the panel latches are locked down before rotating the hood open.
Then take the hand holds and pull the hood forward.
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When you rotate the hood far enough, the cables will support it.
If your vehicle has the optional hood access panels, you can easily get to one side of the engine or the other as you need to. Pull out on the top of each hood latch. Then push the latch down and swing the bottom out.
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Before closing the hood or access panels, be sure all the filler caps are on properly. Noise Control System The following information relates to compliance with Federal noise emission standards for vehicles with a Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) of more than 10,000 lbs. (4 536 kg). The Maintenance Schedule provides information on maintaining the noise control system to minimize degradation of the noise emission control system during the life of your vehicle. The noise control system warranty is given in your Warranty booklet. These standards apply only to vehicles sold in the United States.
Then place the prop rod, located on the panel, where the arrow is pointing.
CAUTION:
Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like gasoline or diesel fuel, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.
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Tampering With Noise Control System Prohibited Federal law prohibits the following acts or the causing thereof: 1. The removal or rendering inoperative by any person,
other than for purposes of maintenance, repair or replacement, of any device or element of design incorporated into any new vehicle for the purpose of noise control, prior to its sale or delivery to the ultimate purchaser or while it is in use; or
2. The use of the vehicle after such device or element of design has been removed or rendered inoperative by any person.
Among those acts presumed to constitute tampering are the acts listed below. Insulation: D Removal of the noise shields or any
underhood insulation.
Engine: D Removal or rendering engine speed governor (if
equipped) inoperative so as to allow engine speed to exceed manufacturer specifications.
Fan and Drive: D Removal of fan clutch (if equipped) or rendering
clutch inoperative.
D Removal of the fan shroud (if equipped). Air Intake: D Removal of the air cleaner silencer. D Reversing the air cleaner cover. Exhaust: D Removal of the muffler and/or resonator. D Removal of the exhaust pipes and exhaust
pipe clamps.
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Engine Oil (Gasoline Engine) It’s a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.
Checking Engine Oil Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.
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The engine oil dipstick is located on the passenger’s side of the engine compartment. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you don’t, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.
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When to Add Engine Oil If the oil is at or below the cross-hatched area, then you’ll need to add at least one quart of oil. But you must use the right kind. This part explains what kind of oil to use. For crankcase capacity, see “Capacities and Specifications” in the Index.
What Kind of Engine Oil to Use Oils recommended for your vehicle can be identified by looking for the “Starburst” symbol. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API). Do not use any oil which does not carry this Starburst symbol.
NOTICE:
Don’t add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged.
Be sure to fill it enough to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you’re through.
If you change your own oil, be sure you use oil that has the Starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. If you have your oil changed for you, be sure the oil put into your engine is American Petroleum Institute certified for gasoline engines.
You should also use the proper viscosity oil for your vehicle, as shown in the following chart:
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As shown in the chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. However, you can use SAE 10W-30 if it’s going to be 0_F (-18_C) or above. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use
