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If your vehicle has these power jacks, you’ll find them in the ashtray.
These jacks provide 12-volt power so you can operate things such as a citizen’s band (CB) radio or a cellular phone. You’ll see positive (red) and negative (black) outlets. They have a 20-amp fuse that is common with the cigarette lighter. Don’t use the cigarette lighter when you’re using a power jack because it may overload the circuit and blow the fuse.
NOTICE:
Whether or not your vehicle has the power outlets, don’t plug in FM communications gear at the ashtray area. FM equipment creates high heat, and over time the area could get so hot that wires could be damaged or a fire could even break out.
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Trailer Connections (If Equipped) These connections are located at the rear of the cab. There is an air connection and a trailer electrical connection. Be sure that the couplings to the trailer are made correctly. Air Connections
The red line is the supply line. It provides emergency or constant air pressure. The blue line is the control line, providing service air.
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Electrical Connections (If Equipped) If your vehicle has this system, it has a seven-wire cable that will go to the trailer to supply electrical power to the trailer’s lighting system. When not in use, it is stored in the trailer air-hose storage bracket.
NOTICE:
Starting in 1998, the center pin (also known as the auxiliary circuit) of the 7-pin trailer electrical connector will be wired to provide continuous power for the trailer anti-lock brake systems when the ignition key is in ON or RUN. Care should be taken to insure that continuous power on this circuit will not cause damage to the trailer electrical system. Consult with the trailer manufacturer for the proper operation and checking procedures for the trailer anti-lock brake systems.
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Instrument Panel
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A. Left Side Window Defogger B. Main Lamps Switch C. Vent D. Instrument Cluster E. Warning Lights F. Heated Mirror Switch (Option) G. Exhaust Brake Switch (Option) H. Marker/Clearance Lamps Switch (Option) I. Audio System or Storage Area J. Vents
K. Glove Box L. Right Side Window Defogger M. Storage Tray/Cassette Player N. Comfort Controls O. Air Brake Controls (If Equipped) P. Ashtray Q. Air Vent Controls R. Convenience Center Fuse Panel S. Hourmeter (Option)
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Instrument Panel Cluster
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Your instrument cluster is designed to let you know at a glance how your vehicle is running. You’ll know how fast you’re going, about how much fuel is left and many other things you’ll need to drive safely and economically.
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Speedometer
Your speedometer lets you see your speed in both miles per hour (mph) and kilometers per hour (km/h).
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Tamper Resistant Odometer Your odometer shows how far your vehicle has been driven, in either miles (used in the United States) or kilometers (used in Canada). Your odometer is tamper-resistant. The odometer will show silver lines between the numbers if someone tries to turn it back. You may wonder what happens if your vehicle needs a new odometer installed. If the new one can be set to the mileage total of the old odometer, then it must be. But if it can’t, then it’s set at zero, and a label must be put on the driver’s door to show the old mileage reading when the new odometer was installed.
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Tachometer (If Equipped)
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Gasoline Engine
Diesel Engine
This gage shows the engine speed in revolutions per minute (rpm).
Engine Speed Governor All gasoline engines have a electronic engine speed governor. The engine governed speeds range between 3600 and 4000 rpm depending on model, engine size and option content.
Engine Road Speed Governor (Gasoline Engine) This system controls maximum vehicle speed automatically and reduces engine power until vehicle speed gets down to maximum governed speed. A 75 mph (120 km/h) road speed governor is standard, but is optionally available in 60 or 65 mph (97 or 105 km/h) speeds, depending on model.
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Warning Lights, Gages and Indicators This part describes the warning lights and gages that may be on your vehicle. The pictures will help you locate them. Warning lights and gages can signal that something is wrong before it becomes serious enough to cause an expensive repair or replacement. Paying attention to your warning lights and gages could also save you or others from injury. Warning lights come on when there may be or is a problem with one of your vehicle’s functions. As you will see in the details on the next few pages, some warning lights come on briefly when you start the engine just to let you know they’re working. If you are familiar with this section, you should not be alarmed when this happens. Gages can indicate when there may be or is a problem with one of your vehicle’s functions. Often gages and warning lights work together to let you know when there’s a problem with your vehicle.
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When one of the warning lights comes on and stays on when you are driving, or when one of the gages shows there may be a problem, check the section that tells you what to do about it. Please follow this manual’s advice. Waiting to do repairs can be costly -- and even dangerous. So please get to know your warning lights and gages. They’re a big help. Safety Belt Reminder Light (Option)
When the key is turned to RUN or START, a light will come on for about eight seconds to remind people to fasten their safety belts.
Safety Belt Reminder Tone (Option) When the key is turned to RUN or START, a tone will sound for about eight seconds to remind people to fasten their safety belts.
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Charging System Indicator Light
CAUTION:
If your vehicle has an electric/hydraulic parking brake, do not drive if the charging system light is on. If the battery drains too much, the parking brake can suddenly come on and stop the vehicle. This can cause severe injury to you and others.
If it stays on, or comes on while you are driving, have it checked right away. You could have a loose generator drive belt or some other problem. Driving while this light is on could drain your battery. If you must drive a short distance with the light on, turn off your radio and other accessories. Sustained driving with a generator failure could result in a lack of back-up braking if the engine quits or the power steering pump should fail. Voltmeter
The charging system light is located in the center of the instrument cluster just above the odometer.
When your engine is running, the voltmeter gage, at the lower left of the instrument cluster, shows the charging system voltage.
It should come on briefly when you turn on the ignition, before the engine is running, as a check to show that it is working.
Readings in either warning zone indicate a possible problem in the electrical system.
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Readings in the low warning zone may occur when a large number of electrical accessories are operating in the vehicle and the engine is left at an idle for an extended period. This condition is normal since the charging system may not be able to provide full power at engine idle. As engine speeds are increased, this condition should correct itself because higher engine speeds allow the charging system to create maximum power. You can only drive a short time on the battery. Be sure to shut off the radio, the fan or any unnecessary accessories and have the system serviced. Do Not Shift Warning Light
If your vehicle has the Allison MD automatic transmission, certain transmission malfunctions will turn this light on.
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If this light comes on while you are driving, do not use the transmission shift control. Using the transmission shift control will result in the loss of forward gears. The computer for the transmission senses a problem and chooses a gear to stay in so that you can drive the vehicle in that gear. You may not be able to drive as fast or back up when this light is on.
NOTICE:
If the DO NOT SHIFT warning light comes on while you are driving, it is a warning that making a transmission “range” change could leave you stranded. The vehicle may not continue to move if you change gears with the transmission shift control. The transmission can’t operate in all gears because something is wrong. Leave the shift control alone and drive directly to a GM dealer for service. If you can’t go in for service immediately, have the vehicle towed.
Brake System Warning Light Your vehicle has either hydraulic or air brakes. Each system has different warning lights.
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Hydraulic Brake System Warning Lights Vehicles with hydraulic systems have two brake system warning lights on the instrument panel.
If the PRIMARY BRAKE warning light comes on, it means that the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir is low or there is another problem with your primary hydraulic brakes.
When it comes on, you will also hear a warning tone. The PRIMARY BRAKE warning light may come on, and the warning tone may sound, when you’re turning and braking at the same time. This is normal. See “Hydraulic Brake Systems” in the Index.
Both of these lights should come on briefly every time you start the engine. If they don’t come on then, have them fixed so they will be ready to warn you if there’s a problem. If one or both of these warning lights stay on after you start the engine, there could be a brake problem. Have your brake system inspected right away. If one or both of these lights come on and stay on while you are driving, pull off the road and stop carefully. You may notice that the pedal is harder to push. Or, the pedal may go closer to the floor. It may take longer to stop. If either light is still on, have the vehicle towed for service. (See “Towing Your Vehicle” in the Index.) See “Hydraulic Brake Systems” in the Index for more information.
CAUTION:
If the AUX BRAKE warning light comes on, it means that there is something wrong in the auxiliary brake system.
Your brake system may not be working properly if a brake system warning light is on. Driving with either of the brake system warning lights on can lead to an accident. If either light is still on after you’ve pulled off the road and stopped carefully, have the vehicle towed for service.
When this light comes on, you will also hear a warning tone. 2-58
Air Brake System Warning Light Vehicles with air brake systems have one brake system warning light on the instrument panel.
The LOW AIR warning light should come on, as a check, whenever you start the engine.
However, it is designed to come on, and stay on, when brake reservoir pressure has dropped below 60 to 70 psi (410 to 480 kPa).
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When this warning light comes on, you will also hear a warning tone. If the warning light and tone come on while you are driving, you should drive only as far as the nearest point of safety and then stop the vehicle. Here’s a very important thing for you to know:
CAUTION:
If the LOW AIR warning light comes on and the warning tone sounds, the vehicle can stop suddenly and without further warning. This is because the parking brake will come on if the pressure falls below 40 to 45 psi (275 to 310 kPa). You or others could be injured. If the LOW AIR warning light comes on and the warning tone sounds, stop as soon as you can. You won’t know how quickly the system is losing pressure, so be aware that the parking brake may come on suddenly.
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Apply Park Brake Warning Light (Option)
This light warns the driver that the ignition has been turned off without applying the parking brake. The warning light should come on, as a check, when you start the engine.
When it comes on, you will also hear a warning tone. Leaving the vehicle in this condition could result in your vehicle moving and will discharge the battery. Parking Brake Warning Light
This light turns on as a check when the engine is first started and any time the system needs adjustment or there is a malfunction in the electric/hydraulic parking brake system.
When the SERVICE PARK BRAKE light comes on, you will also hear a warning tone. If this light comes on, have the system repaired immediately.
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CAUTION:
If the SERVICE PARK BRAKE warning light comes on and the warning tone sounds, your vehicle can stop suddenly and without further warning. You or others could be injured. If the SERVICE PARK BRAKE warning light and the warning tone come on, pull over to the side of the road and apply the parking brake immediately.
Parking Brake Indicator Light
Vehicles with hydraulic or air brakes have a parking brake indicator light. When the ignition is on, this light will come on when you set your parking brake.
The light will stay on if your parking brake doesn’t release fully. This light should also come on when you turn the ignition key to START. If it doesn’t come on then, have it fixed so it will be ready to remind you if the parking brake is applied or hasn’t released fully.
Anti-Lock Brake System Warning Light (Option)
Engine Coolant Temperature Gage
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With the anti-lock brake system, this light will come on when you start your engine and it may stay on for several seconds. That’s normal.
If the light stays on, or comes on when you’re driving, your vehicle needs service. If the PRIMARY BRAKE or LOW AIR warning light isn’t on, you still have brakes, but you don’t have the anti-lock brake feature. If the PRIMARY BRAKE and/or LOW AIR warning light is on, you don’t have anti-lock brakes and there’s a problem with your regular brakes. See “Brake System Warning Light” earlier in this section. The anti-lock brake system warning light should come on briefly when you turn the ignition key to RUN. If the light doesn’t come on then, have it fixed so it will be ready to warn you if there is a problem.
Gasoline Engine
Diesel Engine
This gage shows the engine coolant temperature. If the gage pointer moves into the red area, your engine coolant might have overheated and your engine may be too hot. You should pull off the road, stop your vehicle and turn off the engine as soon as possible. See “Engine Overheating” in the Index. If you have a CaterpillarR diesel engine, also see your CaterpillarR Operation & Maintenance Manual.
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Manual Fast Idle Indicator Light (If Equipped)
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If your vehicle is equipped with an electronically controlled diesel engine or gasoline engine, you may have this indicator light. It is located next to the FAST IDLE switch on the lower, driver’s side of the instrument panel.
This light will illuminate whenever the manual FAST IDLE feature is engaged. For more details about this system, see “Fast Idle System” in the Index.
Low Coolant Warning Light
You have a LOW COOLANT warning light. If this light comes on, your system is low on coolant and the engine may overheat.
The warning light should come on briefly, as a check, when you turn on the ignition. When it comes on, you will also hear a warning tone at five beats per second for 10 seconds. See “Engine Coolant” in the Index and have your vehicle serviced as soon as you can. This light may also come on if your vehicle is equipped with the optional automatic engine shutdown system and engine shutdown has begun. See“Engine Automatic Shutdown” in the Index.
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Intake Heater Indicator Light (Diesel Engines)
This light on the instrument panel will come on when the intake heater is on and the ignition key is in ON.
Diff Lock Indicator Light (If Equipped)
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This light on the instrument panel is on when the inter-axle differential lock system is in use.
Since the light is illuminated whenever the intake heater is activated, it is normal for the light to cycle on and off as the heater cycles during engine warm-up. See “Engine Starting” in your CaterpillarR Operation & Maintenance Manual for more information.
The light will come on momentarily during starting. If the light fails to come on, have it repaired as soon as possible so you will be aware when the lock system is in use.
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Service Trans Filter Indicator Light (If Equipped)
Malfunction Indicator Lamp (Check Engine Light)
If your vehicle has this light, you’ll find it below the cluster on the instrument panel.
If your vehicle is equipped with either a gasoline engine or an electronically controlled diesel engine, you will have this light.
It monitors the transmission fluid filter. If it ever goes on, it means your transmission filter is dirty and requires replacement.
If this light comes on or flashes while you are driving, two things may happen. First, you won’t notice any difference in engine performance, but your tail pipe emissions may increase. Second, your engine may not run properly or may stall without warning. If either of these things happen, drive or tow your vehicle to your dealer for service.
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This light should come on when the ignition is on, but the engine is not running, as a check to show you it is working. If it does not come on at all, have it repaired.
Engine Oil Pressure Gage
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NOTICE:
If you keep driving your vehicle with this light on, after a while, your emission controls may not work as well, your fuel economy may not be as good and your engine may not run as smoothly. This could lead to costly repairs that may not be covered by your warranty.
Gasoline Engine
Diesel Engine
The engine oil pressure gage, on the lower right portion of your instrument cluster, shows engine oil pressure in psi (pounds per square inch) or in kPa (kilopascals). Oil pressure may vary with outside temperature and oil viscosity, but readings of 30 to 40 psi (205 to 275 kPa) on gasoline engines at operating temperature and moderate road speeds are normal. If you have a diesel engine, the normal operating range should be between 35 and 70 psi (240 to 480 kPa).
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Change Oil Light (If Equipped)
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The CHANGE OIL light should come on briefly as a bulb check when you start the engine. If the light doesn’t come on, have it serviced.
If the CHANGE OIL light comes on and stays on after you start the engine, have the oil changed. For additional information, see “Engine Oil, When to Change” in the Index. To reset the Oil Life Monitor, see “Engine Oil Life Monitor” in the Index.
A reading in the low pressure zone may be caused by a dangerously low oil level or other problem. If you have a CaterpillarR diesel engine, also see your CaterpillarR Operation & Maintenance Manual.
CAUTION:
Don’t keep driving if the oil pressure is low. If you do, your engine can become so hot that it catches fire. You or others could be burned. Check your oil as soon as possible and have your vehicle serviced.
NOTICE:
Damage to your engine from neglected oil problems can be costly and is not covered by your warranty.
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Daytime Running Lamps (DRL) Indicator Light
This light is located on the upper cluster portion of the instrument panel. It goes on whenever the Daytime Running Lamps are on. See “Daytime Running Lamps” in the Index.
When it begins to get dark, the DRL indicator light is a reminder to turn on your headlamps.
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Check Gages Indicator Light (If Equipped)
This light will come on as you’re starting the engine, just as a check.
If it ever comes on and stays on while you are driving, however, it means that either your engine coolant temperature gage or your engine oil pressure gage may be showing a reading in the warning zone. When the CHECK GAGES light comes on, you will also hear a warning tone. The tone and the light will stay activated until the problem is corrected. This light may also come on if your vehicle is equipped with the optional automatic engine shutdown system and engine shutdown has begun. See “Engine Automatic Shutdown” in the Index.
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When the ignition is on, your fuel gage lets you know about how much fuel you have left. When the gage first shows empty, you’ll still have a little fuel left, but you should get more fuel soon. If your vehicle has dual fuel tanks, the reading on the gage is the average of the two tanks. Here are four concerns of some operators. None of these shows a problem with your fuel gage: D The gage moves a little when you turn a corner or
speed up.
D The gage doesn’t go back to empty when you turn
off the ignition.
D At the gas station, the pump shuts off before the gage
reads full.
D It takes a little more or less fuel to fill up than the
gage indicated.
If you have a diesel engine, also see your CaterpillarR Operation & Maintenance Manual.
Fuel Gage
Gasoline Engine
Diesel Engine
Your fuel gage will be on the right side of your instrument cluster if your vehicle doesn’t have the optional tachometer. If you have a tachometer, your fuel gage is on the lower left portion of your instrument cluster.
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Transmission Temperature Gage (If Equipped)
If you have an automatic transmission and this gage, it is to the right of the dash mounted shift lever, just to the right of your floor-mounted shift lever or on the lower portion of the instrument panel to the right of the steering wheel.
When your ignition is on, the gage shows the temperature of the transmission oil. A reading in the warning zone means you must stop driving and check into the cause. One possible cause is a low oil level in the transmission.
NOTICE:
If you drive when the transmission temperature gage is in the warning zone, you can badly damage the transmission.
Air Pressure Gage (If Equipped)
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If your vehicle has air brakes, this gage at the center of your instrument cluster shows the air pressure for both your front and rear brake systems.
If the needle on the gage indicates that the air pressure is below 60 psi (415 kPa), the LOW AIR warning light will come on. An alarm will also sound if this happens. The yellow pointer shows the pressure available for the front system, while the green pointer shows pressure for the rear. There should be no more than 4 psi (28 kPa) difference showing between the systems. Don’t drive until both pointers are showing at least 120 psi (830 kPa), so you’ll have enough air if you need to apply your brakes.
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Filterminder Gage (Diesel Engine)
Hourmeter Gage (If Equipped)
This optional gage is in the lower center of the instrument panel. It monitors the engine air filter.
If your vehicle has this gage, it will be to the lower left of the steering column, mounted on a bracket either above or below the fuse block. It shows the total engine operating time.
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As the filter gets dirty, the yellow indicator will begin to rise. When it reaches 25 inches of vacuum on the scale, the filter should be replaced. After replacing the filter, reset the gage by pressing in the yellow reset pin at the bottom of the gage. If you have a diesel engine, also see your CaterpillarR Operation & Maintenance Manual.
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Section 3 Comfort Controls and Audio Systems
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In this section, you’ll find out how to operate the comfort control and audio systems offered with your vehicle. Be sure to read about the particular systems supplied with your vehicle.
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3-7Comfort Controls Air Conditioning Heating Defogging Ventilation System Audio Systems Setting the Clock
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3-12AM/FM Stereo Remote Cassette Tape Player (If Equipped) Understanding Radio Reception Tips About Your Audio System Care of Your Cassette Tape Player Fixed Mast Antenna
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HEATER: Heated air comes out near the floor.
This is the best setting for cold weather.
DEFOG: This setting operates the defogger.
Heated air comes out near the windshield. Use this when fog or ice is on the windshield.
Temperature Lever The bottom lever lets you select the temperature of the air flowing into your vehicle. Move the lever to the plus symbol for warmer air. Move the lever to the minus symbol for cooler air. If your engine is equipped with an engine coolant heater, you can use it during initial start-up in cold weather (20_F (-8_C) or lower) to help heat the passenger compartment faster. See “Engine Coolant Heater” in the Index.
Fan Knob The fan knob has four positions. To increase airflow, turn the knob toward the plus symbol. To decrease airflow, turn it toward the minus symbol.
Comfort Controls Standard Comfort Controls If your vehicle does not have air conditioning, this is what your comfort controls will look like.
Function Lever The top lever can be moved to three different heating functions. If you place the lever between positions, it will send air out both vents.
VENT: The air comes out at the vents on your
instrument panel and at your front side windows.
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Optional Comfort Controls (If Equipped) If your vehicle has air conditioning, your comfort controls will look like this.
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Your system has a lighted display showing each system when it is operating. During normal operation, all the lights won’t come on at the same time. Only the ones displaying the current settings will light.
Temperature Selector Bar The bar under your system display lets you select the temperature of the air coming into the passenger area of your vehicle. Press COLD for cooler air and press HOT for warmer air. Release the bar when the system reaches the temperature you want. The temperature is shown on the display by an arrow moving between C and H. If your engine is equipped with an engine coolant heater, you can use it during initial start-up in cold weather (20_F (-8_C) or lower) to help heat the passenger compartment faster. See “Engine Coolant Heater” in the Index.
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A/C Button Press the A/C button to turn your air conditioner on and off. The A/C symbol will light on your display, and air will come out of your instrument panel vents. The fan will automatically be set on LOW.
MAX Button If you press the MAX button, the air in your vehicle will be recirculated. With the air conditioner on, MAX will give you maximum cooling. It can also be used in all modes to help keep dust out of your vehicle. When MAX is selected, REC will light on the display.
Fan Control Button This button is in the upper passenger’s side corner of your system control panel. The fan has four settings: low, medium low, medium high and high. Press the top of the button with the plus symbol to increase airflow. Press the bottom of the button with the minus symbol to decrease airflow. The setting you select is shown on your display as LOW, MED, HI or OFF.
Left Blend Button The airflow can be blended between the two positions. To blend between the positions, press the side of the button showing the area where you would like more airflow. The system will automatically begin to blend toward the position chosen. To stop the system between positions, just press the same side of the button again.
VENT: Press the top of the button and all of the airflow will come through the instrument panel vents.
HEATER: Press the bottom of this button and all
of the airflow will come through the floor outlet.
Right Blend Button The airflow can be blended between the two positions. To blend between positions, press the side of the button showing the area where you would like more airflow. The system will automatically begin to blend toward the position chosen. To stop the system between positions, just press the same side of the button again.
DEFOG: This setting operates the defogger. Air
comes out near the bottom of the windshield and at your front side windows.
HEATER: Press the bottom of this button and
heated air comes out near the floor.
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OFF Press this button to turn the air conditioning/heating system off. Pressing OFF will erase the present mode of operation from the system’s memory. Outside air will still come out of the heater outlet whenever the vehicle is moving forward. If the OFF button is pressed, you must press A/C, MAX or one of the BLEND buttons to turn the system back on. Air Conditioning When you first turn on your vehicle’s air conditioning, open the windows long enough to clear the vehicle of hot air, then close them. Using the MAX button can also help. See “MAX Button” earlier in this section for more information. For normal cooling on hot days, use A/C with the temperature selector toward C. When you press the A/C button to turn the air conditioner off, the system will operate in the vent mode. When you turn the air conditioner back on, the system will operate in the mode you last selected unless the OFF button was pressed.
If your air conditioner develops high system pressure, it will automatically go into the MAX mode and REC will light on your display. The A/C system will remain in the MAX mode, even if you press the MAX button, until system pressure returns to a normal level. Heating On cold days, use HEATER with the temperature selector all the way toward H. When the inside of the vehicle has reached a comfortable temperature, maintain it by using the temperature selector bar. If your vehicle is equipped with a diesel engine, and the engine has been idling for a long time when it’s cold outside, your heater may blow out cool air. This is normal. When you increase the engine speed under load, your heater should blow out warmer air. If it doesn’t, your coolant level may be low. See “Engine Coolant” in the Index to check your coolant level. While idling your diesel engine, you can use the MAX button to recirculate the air in the cab to help maintain interior heat. This will preserve engine coolant temperature and cab heat when idling cannot be avoided. Using the MAX button while driving is not recommended because interior window fogging can result.
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Defogging Use DEFOG, along with the HEATER setting, when there is fog or ice on the windshield. This will direct airflow toward the windshield and front side windows. Set the temperature selector toward H and the fan control at a comfortable level. When the windshield is clear, use the temperature selector bar and the fan control button to maintain a comfortable temperature level.
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Ventilation System Air comes into your vehicle in one of two ways: power air or ram air. Power air means bringing outside air into the cab through the air intake, using the blower fan. Fresh air can be drawn in when the vehicle is stationary or moving at low speed. Air comes in through four vents in the instrument panel and is exhausted through the vents and pressure relief valves in the doors and door pillars. Power ventilation means an increased supply of fresh air is brought into the cab interior without having to open the windows, especially during inclement weather. Ram air is forced into the cab through the air intake in the cowl by the vehicle’s forward motion. This air is controlled by two vent air handles under the instrument panel. Air is directed through the ventilation ducts to the floor. Ram air provides good airflow into the cab at normal road speeds.
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Audio Systems Your Delco Electronics audio system has been designed to operate easily and give years of listening pleasure. You will get the most enjoyment out of it if you acquaint yourself with it first. Find out what your Delco Electronics system can do and how to operate all its controls, to be sure you’re getting the most out of the advanced engineering that went into it. Setting the Clock While pressing the SET button, press the UP button until the correct hour appears on the display and the DOWN button until the correct minute appears on the display. If you press and hold the UP/DOWN button, hours or minutes will advance rapidly.
Ventilation Tips D Keep the hood and front air inlet free of ice, snow or
any other obstruction (such as leaves). The heater and defogger will work far better, reducing the chance of fogging the inside of your windows.
D When you enter a vehicle in cold weather, turn the
blower fan to high for a few moments before driving off. This helps clear the intake ducts of snow and moisture and reduces the chance of fogging the inside of your windows.
D Keep the air path under the seats clear of objects.
This helps air to circulate throughout your vehicle.
The air vents are located in the center and on the sides of your instrument panel. You can move the vents to direct the flow of air or close the vents altogether. When you close a vent, it will increase the flow of air coming out of any vents that are open. If your vehicle does not have air conditioning, there are air vent controls located below the instrument panel.
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AM-FM Stereo
Playing the Radio ON-OFF: Press the round button to turn the radio on. Press it again to turn the radio off. VOLUME: Slide the VOLUME lever to the right to increase volume or to the left to decrease volume. CALL: Press this button to display the clock for a few seconds when the radio is on. To change what is normally shown on the display (station or time), press this button and the SET button.
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Finding a Station AM/FM: Press this button to switch between AM and FM. The display shows your selection. TUNE: Press UP to increase the frequency of a radio station and DOWN to decrease the frequency of a radio station. If you press and hold the UP or DOWN button for more than half a second, the radio will tune rapidly in that direction. SEEK: Press SEEK to tune the radio to the next higher station and stay there. SCAN: Press SCAN to listen to the next higher radio station for a few seconds. Press SCAN again to stop scanning. PUSHBUTTONS: The six numbered pushbuttons let you return to your favorite stations. You can set up to 12 stations (six AM and six FM). Just: 1. Turn the radio on. 2. Press AM/FM to select a band. 3. Tune in the desired station. 4. Press SET. (SET will appear on the display and will
blink for about eight seconds.)
5. Press one of the six pushbuttons within eight
seconds. In the display, SET will stop blinking indicating the preset is set. Whenever you press that numbered button, the station you set will return.
6. Repeat the steps for each pushbutton. Also, you can use the automatic memory SET button to set the pushbuttons. You can set up to 12 stations (six AM and six FM). Just: 1. Press AM/FM to select a band. 2. Press and hold SET. (SET will appear on the display
and will blink.)
3. While pressing the SET button, press the SEEK
button. Release both switches. The radio will automatically search the band and select radio stations, up to six, which have good signal strength.
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Setting the Tone BAS: Slide this lever left or right to decrease or increase the bass. TRE: Slide this lever left or right to decrease or increase the treble. If a station is weak or noisy, you may want to decrease the treble. LOUD: To increase bass and treble at low volumes, press this button. LOUD will appear in the display. Press this button again to turn LOUD off.
Adjusting the Speakers BAL: Slide this lever to the left or right to adjust the speaker balance between the left and right speakers. The middle position balances the sound between the speakers. FAD: Slide this lever to the left or right to adjust the speaker balance between the front and rear speakers. The middle position balances the sound between the speakers.
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FF: Press the right arrow to rapidly advance the tape. Press REW to stop forwarding the tape. PROGRAM: An arrow will light on the display to show which side of the tape is playing. EJ: Press this button to remove the tape. There is a space provided with your remote cassette tape player to keep cassette tapes in. Understanding Radio Reception
AM The range for most AM stations is greater than for FM, especially at night. The longer range, however, can cause stations to interfere with each other. AM can pick up noise from things like storms and power lines. Try reducing the treble to reduce this noise if you ever get it.
FM Stereo FM stereo will give you the best sound, but FM signals will reach only about 10 to 40 miles (16 to 65 km). Tall buildings or hills can interfere with FM signals, causing the sound to come and go.
Remote Cassette Tape Player (If Equipped)
Your tape player is built to work best with tapes that are up to 30 to 45 minutes long on each side. Tapes longer than that are so thin they may not work well in this player. To load a cassette tape, hold the cassette with the tape to the right. Then, insert the cassette tape. Tape direction is displayed by the lighted arrow. To change the tape direction, press the FF button. Once the tape is playing, use the control knobs for VOLUME, BAL, FAD, BAS and TRE just as you do for the radio. REW: Press the left arrow to rapidly reverse the tape. Press FF to stop reversing the tape.
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Tips About Your Audio System Hearing damage from loud noise is almost undetectable until it is too late. Your hearing can adapt to higher volumes of sound. Sound that seems normal can be loud and harmful to your hearing. Take precautions by adjusting the volume control on your radio to a safe sound level before your hearing adapts to it. To help avoid hearing loss or damage: D Adjust the volume control to the lowest setting. D Increase volume slowly until you hear comfortably
and clearly.
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NOTICE:
Before you add any sound equipment to your vehicle -- like a tape player, CB radio, mobile telephone or two-way radio -- be sure you can add what you want. If you can, it’s very important to do it properly. Added sound equipment may interfere with the operation of your vehicle’s engine, Delco Electronics radio or other systems, and even damage them. Your vehicle’s systems may interfere with the operation of sound equipment that has been added improperly. So, before adding sound equipment, check with your dealer and be sure to check Federal rules covering mobile radio and telephone units.
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You may also choose a non-scrubbing action, wet-type cleaner which uses a cassette with a fabric belt to clean the tape head. This type of cleaning cassette will not eject on its own. A non-scrubbing action cleaner may not clean as thoroughly as the scrubbing type cleaner. The use of a non-scrubbing action, dry-type cleaning cassette is not recommended. Cassettes are subject to wear and the sound quality may degrade over time. Always make sure the cassette tape is in good condition before you have your tape player serviced. Fixed Mast Antenna The fixed mast antenna can withstand most vehicle washes without being damaged. If the mast should ever become slightly bent, you can straighten it out by hand. If the mast is badly bent, as it might be by vandals, you should replace it. Check every once in a while to be sure the mast is still tightened to the cowl.
Care of Your Cassette Tape Player A tape player that is not cleaned regularly can cause reduced sound quality, ruined cassettes or a damaged mechanism. Cassette tapes should be stored in their cases away from contaminants, direct sunlight and extreme heat. If they aren’t, they may not operate properly or may cause failure of the tape player. Your tape player should be cleaned regularly after every 50 hours of use. If you notice a reduction in sound quality, try a known good cassette to see if it is the tape or the tape player at fault. If this other cassette has no improvement in sound quality, clean the tape player. The recommended cleaning method for your cassette tape player is the use of a scrubbing action, non-abrasive cleaning cassette with pads which scrub the tape head as the hubs of the cleaner cassette turn. The recommended cleaning cassette is available through your dealership (GM Part No. 12344789). When using a scrubbing action, non-abrasive cleaning cassette, it is normal for the cassette to eject because your unit is equipped with a cut tape detection feature and a cleaning cassette may appear as a broken tape. If the cleaning cassette ejects, insert the cassette at least three times to ensure thorough cleaning.
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Section 4 Your Driving and the Road
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Here you’ll find information about driving on different kinds of roads and in varying weather conditions. We’ve also included many other useful tips on driving.
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4-15Defensive Driving Drunken Driving Control of a Vehicle Braking Steering Off-Road Recovery Passing Loss of Control Driving at Night
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4-31Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads City Driving Freeway Driving Highway Hypnosis Hill and Mountain Roads Winter Driving Loading Your Vehicle Power Take-Off (PTO) (If Equipped)
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Defensive driving really means “be ready for anything.” On city streets, rural roads or freeways, it means “always expect the unexpected.” Assume that pedestrians or other drivers are going to be careless and make mistakes. Anticipate what they might do. Be ready for their mistakes. Rear-end collisions are about the most preventable of accidents. Yet they are common. Allow enough following distance. It’s the best defensive driving maneuver, in both city and rural driving. You never know when the vehicle in front of you is going to brake or turn suddenly. Defensive driving requires that a driver concentrate on the driving task. Anything that distracts from the driving task -- such as concentrating on a cellular telephone call, reading, or reaching for something on the floor -- makes proper defensive driving more difficult and can even cause a collision, with resulting injury. Ask a passenger to help do things like this, or pull off the road in a safe place to do them yourself. These simple defensive driving techniques could save your life.
Defensive Driving The best advice anyone can give about driving is: Drive defensively. Please start with a very important safety device in your vehicle: Buckle up. (See “Safety Belts” in the Index.)
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Drunken Driving Death and injury associated with drinking and driving is a national tragedy. It’s the number one contributor to the highway death toll, claiming thousands of victims every year. Alcohol affects four things that anyone needs to drive a vehicle: D Judgment D Muscular Coordination D Vision D Attentiveness. Police records show that almost half of all motor vehicle-related deaths involve alcohol. In most cases, these deaths are the result of someone who was drinking and driving. In recent years, over 17,000 annual motor vehicle-related deaths have been associated with the use of alcohol, with more than 300,000 people injured. Many adults -- by some estimates, nearly half the adult population -- choose never to drink alcohol, so they never drive after drinking. For persons under 21, it’s against the law in every U.S. state to drink alcohol. There are good medical, psychological and developmental reasons for these laws.
The obvious way to solve the leading highway safety problem is for people never to drink alcohol and then drive. But what if people do? How much is “too much” if the driver plans to drive? It’s a lot less than many might think. Although it depends on each person and situation, here is some general information on the problem. The Blood Alcohol Concentration (BAC) of someone who is drinking depends upon four things: D The amount of alcohol consumed D The drinker’s body weight D The amount of food that is consumed before and
during drinking
D The length of time it has taken the drinker to
consume the alcohol.
According to the American Medical Association, a 180-lb. (82 kg) person who drinks three 12-ounce (355 ml) bottles of beer in an hour will end up with a BAC of about 0.06 percent. The person would reach the same BAC by drinking three 4-ounce (120 ml) glasses of wine or three mixed drinks if each had 1-1/2 ounces (45 ml) of a liquor like whiskey, gin or vodka.
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Since alcohol is carried in body water, this means that a woman generally will reach a higher BAC level than a man of her same body weight when each has the same number of drinks. The law in many U.S. states sets the legal limit at a BAC of 0.10 percent. In a growing number of U.S. states, and throughout Canada, the limit is 0.08 percent. In some other countries, it’s even lower. The BAC limit for all commercial drivers in the United States is 0.04 percent. The BAC will be over 0.10 percent after three to six drinks (in one hour). Of course, as we’ve seen, it depends on how much alcohol is in the drinks, and how quickly the person drinks them. But the ability to drive is affected well below a BAC of 0.10 percent. Research shows that the driving skills of many people are impaired at a BAC approaching 0.05 percent, and that the effects are worse at night. All drivers are impaired at BAC levels above 0.05 percent. Statistics show that the chance of being in a collision increases sharply for drivers who have a BAC of 0.05 percent or above. A driver with a BAC level of 0.06 percent has doubled his or her chance of having a collision. At a BAC level of 0.10 percent, the chance of this driver having a collision is 12 times greater; at a level of 0.15 percent, the chance is 25 times greater!
It’s the amount of alcohol that counts. For example, if the same person drank three double martinis (3 ounces or 90 ml of liquor each) within an hour, the person’s BAC would be close to 0.12 percent. A person who consumes food just before or during drinking will have a somewhat lower BAC level. There is a gender difference, too. Women generally have a lower relative percentage of body water than men.
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The body takes about an hour to rid itself of the alcohol in one drink. No amount of coffee or number of cold showers will speed that up. “I’ll be careful” isn’t the right answer. What if there’s an emergency, a need to take sudden action, as when a child darts into the street? A person with even a moderate BAC might not be able to react quickly enough to avoid the collision. There’s something else about drinking and driving that many people don’t know. Medical research shows that alcohol in a person’s system can make crash injuries worse, especially injuries to the brain, spinal cord or heart. This means that when anyone who has been drinking -- driver or passenger -- is in a crash, that person’s chance of being killed or permanently disabled is higher than if the person had not been drinking.
CAUTION:
Drinking and then driving is very dangerous. Your reflexes, perceptions, attentiveness and judgment can be affected by even a small amount of alcohol. You can have a serious -- or even fatal -- collision if you drive after drinking. Please don’t drink and drive or ride with a driver who has been drinking. Ride home in a cab; or if you’re with a group, designate a driver who will not drink.
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Braking Braking action involves perception time and reaction time. First, you have to decide to push on the brake pedal. That’s perception time. Then you have to bring up your foot and do it. That’s reaction time. Average reaction time is about 3/4 of a second. But that’s only an average. It might be less with one driver and as long as two or three seconds or more with another. Age, physical condition, alertness, coordination and eyesight all play a part. So do alcohol, drugs and frustration. But even in 3/4 of a second, a vehicle moving at 60 mph (100 km/h) travels 66 feet (20 m). That could be a lot of distance in an emergency, so keeping enough space between your vehicle and others is important. And, of course, actual stopping distances vary greatly with the surface of the road (whether it’s pavement or gravel); the condition of the road (wet, dry, icy); tire tread; the condition of your brakes; the weight of the vehicle and the amount of brake force applied.
Control of a Vehicle You have three systems that make your vehicle go where you want it to go. They are the brakes, the steering and the accelerator. All three systems have to do their work at the places where the tires meet the road.
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Avoid needless heavy braking. Some people drive in spurts -- heavy acceleration followed by heavy braking -- rather than keeping pace with traffic. This is a mistake. Your brakes may not have time to cool between hard stops. Your brakes will wear out much faster if you do a lot of heavy braking. If you keep pace with the traffic and allow realistic following distances, you will eliminate a lot of unnecessary braking. That means better braking and longer brake life. If your engine ever stops while you’re driving, brake normally but don’t pump your brakes. If you do, the pedal may get harder to push down. If your engine stops, you will still have some power brake assist. But you will use it when you brake. Once the power assist is used up, it may take longer to stop and the brake pedal will be harder to push. Hydraulic Brake Systems If your engine stops running, or if your primary brake system stops working, your vehicle has a reserve power assist system to help you slow down. Just slowly and steadily apply the brake pedal until you can safely get off the road. The pedal will seem harder to push down. Don’t pump the pedal; the system won’t work well or at all that way.
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You may find that the steering wheel seems hard to turn when you’re turning and braking at the same time. Also, the PRIMARY BRAKE warning light may come on and the warning tone may sound. This is normal because the main hydraulic brake system and power steering both use the power steering pump. If this ever happens, let up on the brake pedal a little. When you let up on the brake pedal in that situation, it lets the steering get a little more help from the pump. Anti-Lock Brakes (Option) Your vehicle may have anti-lock brakes (ABS). ABS is an advanced electronic braking system that will help prevent a braking skid.
If your vehicle has anti-lock brakes, this warning light on the instrument panel will come on briefly when you start your vehicle.
When you start your engine and begin to drive away, your anti-lock brake system will check itself. You may hear a momentary motor or clicking noise while this test is going on. This is normal.
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If there’s a problem with the anti-lock brake system, the anti-lock brake system warning light will stay on. See “Anti-Lock Brake System Warning Light” in the Index.
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A computer senses that wheels are slowing down. If one of the wheels is about to stop rolling, the computer will separately work the brakes at each wheel. The anti-lock system can change the brake pressure faster than any driver could. The computer is programmed to make the most of available tire and road conditions.
Here’s how anti-lock works. Let’s say the road is wet. You’re driving safely. Suddenly an animal jumps out in front of you. You slam on the brakes. Here’s what happens with ABS.
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You can steer around the obstacle while braking hard.
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As you brake, your computer keeps receiving updates on wheel speed and controls braking pressure accordingly. Remember: Anti-lock doesn’t change the time you need to get your foot up to the brake pedal or always decrease stopping distance. If you get too close to the vehicle in front of you, you won’t have time to apply your brakes if that vehicle suddenly slows or stops. Always leave enough room up ahead to stop, even though you have anti-lock brakes. Using Anti-Lock Don’t pump the brakes. Just hold the brake pedal down firmly and let anti-lock work for you. You may feel the brakes pulsate, or you may hear air exhausting, but this is normal. Braking in Emergencies At some time, nearly every driver gets into a situation that requires hard braking. If you have anti-lock, you can steer and brake at the same time. However, if you don’t have anti-lock, your first reaction -- to hit the brake pedal hard and hold it down -- may be the wrong thing to do. Your wheels can stop rolling. Once they do, the vehicle can’t respond to your steering. Momentum will carry it in whatever direction it was headed when the wheels stopped rolling.
That could be off the road, into the very thing you were trying to avoid, or into traffic. If you don’t have anti-lock, use a “squeeze” braking technique. This will give you maximum braking while maintaining steering control. You do this by pushing on the brake pedal with steadily increasing pressure. In an emergency, you will probably want to squeeze the brakes hard without locking the wheels. If you hear or feel the wheels sliding, ease off the brake pedal. This will help you retain steering control. (If you do have anti-lock, it’s different: see “Anti-Lock Brakes” in the Index.) In many emergencies, steering can help you more than even the very best braking. Steering Power Steering If you lose power steering assist because the engine stops or the system is not functioning, you can steer but it will take much more effort. On vehicles with hydraulic brakes, the power steering and main hydraulic brake system both use the power steering pump. See “Hydraulic Brake Systems” in the Index.
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The same thing can happen if you’re steering through a sharp curve and you suddenly accelerate. Those two control systems -- steering and acceleration -- can overwhelm those places where the tires meet the road and make you lose control. What should you do if this ever happens? Ease up on the brake or accelerator pedal, steer the vehicle the way you want it to go, and slow down. Speed limit signs near curves warn that you should adjust your speed. Of course, the posted speeds are based on good weather and road conditions. Under less favorable conditions you’ll want to go slower. If you need to reduce your speed as you approach a curve, do it before you enter the curve, while your front wheels are straight ahead. This is especially important with a tractor-trailer. Try to adjust your speed so you can “drive” through the curve. Maintain a reasonable, steady speed. Wait to accelerate until you are out of the curve, and then accelerate gently into the straightaway.
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Driving on Curves It’s important to take curves at a reasonable speed. A lot of the “driver lost control” accidents mentioned on the news happen on curves. Here’s why: Experienced driver or beginner, each of us is subject to the same laws of physics when driving on curves. The traction of the tires against the road surface makes it possible for the vehicle to change its path when you turn the front wheels. If there’s no traction, inertia will keep the vehicle going in the same direction. If you’ve ever tried to steer a vehicle on wet ice, you’ll understand this. The traction you can get in a curve depends on the condition of your tires and the road surface, the angle at which the curve is banked, and your speed. While you’re in a curve, speed is the one factor you can control. Suppose you’re steering through a sharp curve. Then you suddenly apply the brakes. Both control systems -- steering and braking -- have to do their work where the tires meet the road. Unless you have four-wheel anti-lock brakes, adding the hard braking can demand too much of those places. You can lose control.
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Steering in Emergencies There are times when steering can be more effective than braking. For example, you come over a hill and find a truck stopped in your lane, or a car suddenly pulls out from nowhere, or a child darts out from between parked cars and stops right in front of you. You can avoid these problems by braking -- if you can stop in time. But sometimes you can’t; there isn’t room. That’s the time for evasive action -- steering around the problem. In emergencies like these, first apply your brakes -- but unless you have anti-lock, not enough to lock your wheels. (See “Braking in Emergencies” earlier in this section.) It is better to remove as much speed as you can from a possible collision. Then steer around the problem, to the left or right depending on the space available. If your vehicle has anti-lock brakes, you don’t need to release the brakes to maintain steering control.
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An emergency like this requires close attention and a quick decision. If you are holding the steering wheel at the recommended 9 and 3 o’clock positions, you may be able to turn it just enough to miss the object without removing either hand. But you must act fast, steering precisely. The more sharply you turn, the greater the chance of a skid, a rollover or a “jackknife” with a tractor-trailer. Just as quickly straighten the wheel once you have avoided the object. The fact that such emergency situations are always possible is a good reason to practice defensive driving at all times and wear safety belts properly.
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Passing The driver of a vehicle about to pass another on a two-lane highway waits for just the right moment, accelerates, moves around the vehicle ahead, then goes back into the right lane again. A simple maneuver? Not necessarily! Passing another vehicle on a two-lane highway is a potentially dangerous move, since the passing vehicle occupies the same lane as oncoming traffic for several seconds. A miscalculation, an error in judgment, or a brief surrender to frustration or anger can suddenly put the passing driver face to face with the worst of all traffic accidents -- the head-on collision. So here are some tips for passing: D A vehicle like yours takes a longer time to reach
passing speed, so you’ll need a longer stretch of clear road ahead than you would with a passenger car.
D “Drive ahead.” Look down the road, to the sides and to crossroads for situations that might affect your passing patterns. If you have any doubt whatsoever about making a successful pass, wait for a better time.
Off-Road Recovery You may find that your right wheels have dropped off the edge of a road onto the shoulder while you’re driving.
If the level of the shoulder is only slightly below the pavement, recovery should be fairly easy. Ease off the accelerator and then, if there is nothing in the way, steer so that your vehicle straddles the edge of the pavement. You can turn the steering wheel up to one-quarter turn until the right front tire contacts the pavement edge. Then turn your steering wheel to go straight down the roadway.
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D Watch for traffic signs, pavement markings and lines.
If you can see a sign up ahead that might indicate a turn or an intersection, delay your pass. A broken center line usually indicates it’s all right to pass (providing the road ahead is clear). Never cross a solid line on your side of the lane or a double solid line, even if the road seems empty of approaching traffic.
D Do not get too close to the vehicle you want to pass while you’re awaiting an opportunity. For one thing, following too closely reduces your area of vision, especially if you’re following a larger vehicle. Also, you won’t have adequate space if the vehicle ahead suddenly slows or stops. Keep back a reasonable distance.
D When it looks like a chance to pass is coming up,
start to accelerate but stay in the right lane and don’t get too close. Time your move so you will be increasing speed as the time comes to move into the other lane. If the way is clear to pass, you will have a “running start” that more than makes up for the distance you would lose by dropping back. And if something happens to cause you to cancel your pass, you need only slow down and drop back again and wait for another opportunity.
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D If other cars are lined up to pass a slow vehicle, wait your turn. But take care that someone isn’t trying to pass you as you pull out to pass the slow vehicle. D Check your mirrors and start your left lane change signal before moving out of the right lane to pass. When you are far enough ahead of the passed vehicle to see its front in your right outside mirror, activate your right lane change signal and move back into the right lane. (Remember that if your right outside mirror is convex, the vehicle you just passed may seem to be farther away from you than it really is.) D Try not to pass more than one vehicle at a time on
two-lane roads. Reconsider before passing the next vehicle.
D Don’t overtake a slowly moving vehicle too rapidly. Even though the brake lamps are not flashing, it may be slowing down or starting to turn.
D If you’re being passed, make it easy for the
following driver to get ahead of you. Perhaps you can ease a little to the right.
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Loss of Control Let’s review what driving experts say about what happens when the three control systems (brakes, steering and acceleration) don’t have enough friction where the tires meet the road to do what the driver has asked. In any emergency, don’t give up. Keep trying to steer and constantly seek an escape route or area of less danger. Skidding In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle. Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking reasonable care suited to existing conditions, and by not “overdriving” those conditions. But skids are always possible. The three types of skids correspond to your vehicle’s three control systems. In the braking skid, your wheels aren’t rolling. In the steering or cornering skid, too much speed or steering in a curve causes tires to slip and lose cornering force. And in the acceleration skid, too much throttle causes the driving wheels to spin. A cornering skid and an acceleration skid are usually best handled by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal.
Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice, gravel or other material is on the road. For safety, you’ll want to slow down and adjust your driving to these conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and vehicle control more limited. While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try your best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration or braking (including engine braking by shifting to a lower gear). See “Diesel Engine Exhaust Brake” in the Index for information about using the exhaust brake on slippery surfaces. Any sudden changes could cause the tires to slide. You may not realize the surface is slippery until your vehicle is skidding. Learn to recognize warning clues -- such as enough water, ice or packed snow on the road to make a “mirrored surface” -- and slow down when you have any doubt. If you have the anti-lock braking system, remember: It helps avoid only the braking skid. If you do not have anti-lock, then in a braking skid (where the wheels are no longer rolling), release enough pressure on the brakes to get the wheels rolling again. This restores steering control. Push the brake pedal down steadily when you have to stop suddenly. As long as the wheels are rolling, you will have steering control.
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Driving at Night
Night driving is more dangerous than day driving. One reason is that some drivers are likely to be impaired -- by alcohol or drugs, with night vision problems, or by fatigue.
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Here are some tips on night driving. D Drive defensively. D Don’t drink and drive. D Since you can’t see as well, you may need to
slow down and keep more space between you and other vehicles.
D Slow down, especially on higher speed roads. Your
headlamps can light up only so much road ahead.
D In remote areas, watch for animals. D If you’re tired, pull off the road in a safe place
and rest.
Night Vision No one can see as well at night as in the daytime. But as we get older these differences increase. A 50-year-old driver may require at least twice as much light to see the same thing at night as a 20-year-old. What you do in the daytime can also affect your night vision. For example, if you spend the day in bright sunshine you are wise to wear sunglasses. Your eyes will have less trouble adjusting to night. But if you’re driving, don’t wear sunglasses at night. They may cut down on glare from headlamps, but they also make a lot of things invisible.
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You can be temporarily blinded by approaching headlamps. It can take a second or two, or even several seconds, for your eyes to readjust to the dark. When you are faced with severe glare (as from a driver who doesn’t lower the high beams, or a vehicle with misaimed headlamps), slow down a little. Avoid staring directly into the approaching headlamps. Keep your windshield and all the glass on your vehicle clean -- inside and out. Glare at night is made much worse by dirt on the glass. Even the inside of the glass can build up a film caused by dust. Dirty glass makes lights dazzle and flash more than clean glass would, making the pupils of your eyes contract repeatedly. Remember that your headlamps light up far less of a roadway when you are in a turn or curve. Keep your eyes moving; that way, it’s easier to pick out dimly lighted objects. Just as your headlamps should be checked regularly for proper aim, so should your eyes be examined regularly. Some drivers suffer from night blindness -- the inability to see in dim light -- and aren’t even aware of it.
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Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads
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Rain and wet roads can mean driving trouble. On a wet road, you can’t stop, accelerate or turn as well because your tire-to-road traction isn’t as good as on dry roads. And, if your tires don’t have much tread left, you’ll get even less traction. It’s always wise to go slower and be cautious if rain starts to fall while you are driving. The surface may get wet suddenly when your reflexes are tuned for driving on dry pavement.
The heavier the rain, the harder it is to see. Even if your windshield wiper blades are in good shape, a heavy rain can make it harder to see road signs and traffic signals, pavement markings, the edge of the road and even people walking. It’s wise to keep your wiping equipment in good shape and keep your windshield washer tank filled with washer fluid. Replace your windshield wiper inserts when they show signs of streaking or missing areas on the windshield, or when strips of rubber start to separate from the inserts.
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Driving too fast through large water puddles or even going through some vehicle washes can cause problems, too. The water may affect your brakes. Try to avoid puddles. But if you can’t, try to slow down before you hit them.
CAUTION:
Wet brakes can cause accidents. They won’t work as well in a quick stop and may cause pulling to one side. You could lose control of the vehicle. After driving through a large puddle of water or a vehicle wash, apply your brake pedal lightly until your brakes work normally.
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Hydroplaning Hydroplaning is dangerous. So much water can build up under your tires that they can actually ride on the water. This can happen if the road is wet enough and you’re going fast enough. When your vehicle is hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road. Hydroplaning doesn’t happen often. But it can if your tires do not have much tread or if the pressure in one or more is low. It can happen if a lot of water is standing on the road. If you can see reflections from trees, telephone poles or other vehicles, and raindrops “dimple” the water’s surface, there could be hydroplaning. Hydroplaning usually happens at higher speeds. There just isn’t a hard and fast rule about hydroplaning. The best advice is to slow down when it is raining.
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Driving Through Deep Standing Water
NOTICE:
If you drive too quickly through deep puddles or standing water, water can come in through your engine’s air intake and badly damage your engine. Never drive through water that is slightly lower than the underbody of your vehicle. If you can’t avoid deep puddles or standing water, drive through them very slowly.
Some Other Rainy Weather Tips D Turn on your low-beam headlamps and your marker and clearance lamps, if your vehicle has them -- not just your parking lamps -- to help make you more visible to others.
D Besides slowing down, allow some extra following distance. And be especially careful when you pass another vehicle. Allow yourself more clear room ahead, and be prepared to have your view restricted by road spray.
D Have good tires with proper tread depth.
(See “Tires” in the Index.)
City Driving
One of the biggest problems with city streets is the amount of traffic on them. You’ll want to watch out for what the other drivers are doing and pay attention to traffic signals.
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Here are ways to increase your safety in city driving: D Know the best way to get to where you are going. Get a city map and plan your trip into an unknown part of the city just as you would for a cross-country trip.
D Larger vehicles can’t be driven everywhere smaller
ones can. There are low underpasses, truck routes and other special situations. Usually these are well marked, so be sure to watch for the signs.
D Try to use the freeways that rim and crisscross most large cities. You’ll save time and energy. (See the next part, “Freeway Driving.”)
D Treat a green light as a warning signal. A traffic light is there because the corner is busy enough to need it. When a light turns green, and just before you start to move, check both ways for vehicles that have not cleared the intersection or may be running the red light.
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The most important advice on freeway driving is: Keep up with traffic and keep to the right. Drive at the same speed most of the other drivers are driving. Too-fast or too-slow driving breaks a smooth traffic flow. Treat the left lane on a freeway as a passing lane. At the entrance, there is usually a ramp that leads to the freeway. If you have a clear view of the freeway as you drive along the entrance ramp, you should begin to check traffic. Try to determine where you expect to blend with the flow. Try to merge into the gap at close to the prevailing speed. Switch on your turn signal, check your mirrors and try to blend smoothly with the traffic flow. Once you are on the freeway, adjust your speed to the posted limit or to the prevailing rate if it’s slower. Stay in the right lane unless you want to pass. On some freeways, larger vehicles aren’t allowed to use some lanes. These places usually are well-marked. Before changing lanes, check your mirrors. Then use your turn signal.
Freeway Driving
Mile for mile, freeways (also called thruways, parkways, expressways, turnpikes or superhighways) are the safest of all roads. But they have their own special rules.
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Once you are moving on the freeway, make certain you allow a reasonable following distance. Expect to move slightly slower at night. When you want to leave the freeway, move to the proper lane well in advance. If you miss your exit, do not, under any circumstances, stop and back up. Drive on to the next exit. The exit ramp can be curved, sometimes quite sharply. The exit speed for cars -- but not larger vehicles -- is usually posted. You should go more slowly. Reduce your speed according to your speedometer, not to your sense of motion. After driving for any distance at higher speeds, you may tend to think you are going slower than you actually are. Highway Hypnosis Is there actually such a condition as “highway hypnosis”? Or is it just plain falling asleep at the wheel? Call it highway hypnosis, lack of awareness, or whatever.
When you drive the vehicle for a long distance, there is something about an easy stretch of road with the same scenery, along with the hum of the tires on the road, the drone of the engine, and the rush of the wind against the vehicle that can make you sleepy. Don’t let it happen to you! If it does, your vehicle can leave the road in less than a second, and you could crash and be injured. What can you do about highway hypnosis? First, be aware that it can happen. Then here are some tips: D Make sure your vehicle is well ventilated, with a
comfortably cool interior.
D Keep your eyes moving. Scan the road ahead and
to the sides. Check your mirrors and your instruments frequently.
D If you get sleepy, pull off the road into a rest, service or parking area and take a nap, get some exercise, or both. For safety, treat drowsiness on the highway as an emergency.
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Here are some tips that can make your drive through steep country safer: D Keep the vehicle in good shape. Check all fluid
levels and also the brakes, tires, cooling system and transmission. These parts can work hard on mountain roads.
D Know how to go down hills. The most important
thing to know is this: let your engine do some of the slowing down. Shift to a lower gear when you go down a steep or long hill.
CAUTION:
If you don’t shift down, your brakes could get so hot that they wouldn’t work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Shift down to let your engine assist your brakes on a steep downhill slope.
Hill and Mountain Roads
Driving on steep hills or mountains is different from driving in flat or rolling terrain.
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D Stay in your own lane when driving on two-lane
roads in hills or mountains. Don’t swing wide or cut across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let you stay in your own lane.
D As you go over the top of a hill, be alert. There
could be something in your lane, like a stalled car or an accident.
D You may see highway signs on mountains that warn
of special problems. Examples are long grades, passing or no-passing zones, a falling rocks area, winding roads and special truck lanes. Be alert to these and take appropriate action.
CAUTION:
Coasting downhill in NEUTRAL (N) or with the ignition off is dangerous. Your brakes will have to do all the work of slowing down. They could get so hot that they wouldn’t work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Always have your engine running and your vehicle in gear when you go downhill.
D Know how to go uphill. Use lower gears. They help
cool your engine and transmission, and you can climb the hill better.
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Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a supply of windshield washer fluid, a rag, some winter outer clothing, a small shovel, a flashlight, a red cloth and reflective warning triangles. And, if you will be driving under severe conditions, include a small bag of sand, a piece of old carpet or a couple of burlap bags to help provide traction. Be sure you properly secure these items in your vehicle. Driving on Snow or Ice Most of the time, those places where your tires meet the road probably have good traction. However, if there is snow or ice between your tires and the road, you can have a very slippery situation. You’ll have a lot less traction or “grip” and will need to be very careful.
Winter Driving
Here are some tips for winter driving: D Be sure the vehicle is in good shape for winter. D You may want to put winter emergency supplies in
your vehicle.
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Whatever the condition -- smooth ice, packed, blowing or loose snow -- drive with caution. Accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction. If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and polish the surface under the tires even more. Unless you have the anti-lock braking system, you’ll want to brake very gently, too. (If you do have anti-lock, see “Anti-Lock” in the Index. This system improves your vehicle’s stability when you make a hard stop on a slippery road.) Whether you have the anti-lock braking system or not, you’ll want to begin stopping sooner than you would on dry pavement. Without anti-lock brakes, if you feel your vehicle begin to slide, let up on the brakes a little. Push the brake pedal down steadily to get the most traction you can.
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What’s the worst time for this? “Wet ice.” Very cold snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice can be even more trouble because it may offer the least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it’s about freezing (32_F; 0_C) and freezing rain begins to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews can get there.
Remember, unless you have anti-lock, if you brake so hard that your wheels stop rolling, you’ll just slide. Brake so your wheels always keep rolling and you can still steer. D Whatever your braking system, allow greater
following distance on any slippery road.
D Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine until you hit a spot that’s covered with ice. On an otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in shaded areas where the sun can’t reach: around clumps of trees, behind buildings or under bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass may remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you are on it. Try not to brake while you’re actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers.
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If You’re Caught in a Blizzard
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If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a serious situation. You should probably stay with your vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near help and you can hike through the snow. Here are some things to do to summon help and keep yourself and your passengers safe: D Turn on your hazard flashers.
D Tie a red cloth to your mirror arm to alert police that
you’ve been stopped by the snow.
D Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around you. If you have no blankets or extra clothing, make body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags, floor mats -- anything you can wrap around yourself or tuck under your clothing to keep warm.
You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.
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CAUTION:
Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you. You can’t see it or smell it, so you might not know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle if any is blocking your exhaust pipe. And check around again from time to time to be sure snow doesn’t collect there. Open a window just a little on the side of the vehicle that’s away from the wind. This will help keep CO out.
Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps the battery (or batteries) charged. You will need a well-charged battery (or batteries) to restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with your headlamps. Let the heater run for a while.
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If you have a diesel engine, you may have to run it at a higher speed to get enough heat. Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again and repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or so until help comes.
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Loading Your Vehicle The GVW/Tire Information label is found on the rear edge of the driver’s door. The label shows the size of your original tires and the inflation pressures needed to obtain the gross weight capacity of your vehicle.
This is called the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel and cargo.
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The Certification/Tire label is provided by the final manufacturer and should be on the door or door jamb. It also tells you the maximum weights for the front and rear axles, called Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). To find out the actual loads on your front and rear axles, you need to go to a weigh station and weigh your vehicle. Your dealer can help you with this. Be sure to spread out your load equally on both sides of the centerline. Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle, or the GAWR for either the front or rear axle. And, if you do have a heavy load, you should spread it out.
CAUTION:
Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the GVWR, or either the maximum front or rear GAWR. If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle.
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Using heavier suspension components to get added durability might not change your weight ratings. Ask your dealer to help you load your vehicle the right way.
CAUTION:
NOTICE:
Your warranty does not cover parts or components that fail because of overloading.
If you put things inside your vehicle -- like suitcases, tools, packages or anything else -- they will go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they’ll keep going.
Things you put inside your vehicle can strike and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or in a crash. D Put things in the cargo area of your vehicle.
Try to spread the weight evenly.
D Never stack heavier things, like suitcases, inside the vehicle so that some of them are above the tops of the seats.
D Don’t leave an unsecured child restraint in
your vehicle.
D When you carry something inside the
vehicle, secure it whenever you can.
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Power Take-Off (PTO) (If Equipped) Before using a PTO, refer to the body builder’s or operator’s instructions. To engage a PTO: 1. Make sure the vehicle is stopped. 2. Shift the transmission into NEUTRAL (N) or
PARK (P), if equipped.
3. The brake or clutch pedal must be pressed and
released once before PTO can be enabled. Do not hold the brake or clutch pedal down.
4. The cruise control switch must be in ON prior to
engaging the PTO switch to enable PTO operation.
