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Before you start, check all trailer hitch parts and attachments, safety chains, electrical connector, lamps, tires, and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your electrical connection at the same time. During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working. Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns.


(cid:127) Passing You will need more passing distance up ahead when you are towing a trailer. And, because you are a good deal longer, you will need to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane. Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you. Making Turns Notice: Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering. When you are turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so your trailer will not strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees, or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.


Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have extra wiring. The arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other drivers you are about to turn, change lanes, or stop. When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It is important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working. Driving on Grades Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you do not shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. If you are towing a trailer that weighs more than 1,000 lbs (450 kg), you may prefer to drive in THIRD (3) instead of AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE (D) or, as you need to, a lower gear. This will minimize heat build-up and extend the life of your transaxle.


4-47


Parking on Hills


{CAUTION:


You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged.


But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, do the following: 1. Apply your regular brakes, but do not shift into


PARK (P).


2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer


wheels.


3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.


4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your


parking brake, and shift into PARK (P).


5. Release the regular brakes.


4-48


When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down


while you do the following: (cid:127) Start your engine. (cid:127) Shift into a gear. (cid:127) Release the parking brake.


2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks. 4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks. Maintenance When Trailer Towing Your vehicle will need service more often when you are pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more on this. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transaxle fluid, engine oil, belts, cooling system, and brake system. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly. If you are trailering, it is a good idea to review these sections before you start your trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight. Trailer Wiring Harness Your vehicle has a trailer wiring harness located at the rear of your vehicle. To use the trailer wiring harness, you need a converter kit. Contact your dealer for more information.


Section 5


Service and Appearance Care


Service ............................................................5-3
Doing Your Own Service Work .........................5-4
Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your


Vehicle ......................................................5-5
Fuel ................................................................5-5
Gasoline Octane ............................................5-5
Gasoline Specifications ....................................5-5
California Fuel ...............................................5-6
Additives .......................................................5-6
Fuels in Foreign Countries ...............................5-7
Filling the Tank ..............................................5-8
Filling a Portable Fuel Container .....................5-10
Checking Things Under the Hood ....................5-10
Hood Release ..............................................5-11
Engine Compartment Overview .......................5-12
Engine Oil ...................................................5-13
Engine Oil Life System ..................................5-16
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter ................................5-18
Automatic Transaxle Fluid ..............................5-19
Engine Coolant .............................................5-22
Radiator Pressure Cap ..................................5-24
Engine Overheating .......................................5-25
Overheated Engine Protection


Operating Mode ........................................5-27
Cooling System ............................................5-27


Power Steering Fluid .....................................5-34
Windshield Washer Fluid ................................5-35
Brakes ........................................................5-36
Battery ........................................................5-39
Jump Starting ...............................................5-39
All-Wheel Drive ..............................................5-44
Bulb Replacement ..........................................5-46
Halogen Bulbs ..............................................5-46
Headlamps and Sidemarker Lamps .................5-46
Front Turn Signal, Parking and


Daytime Running Lamps (DRL) ...................5-48


Taillamps, Turn Signal, Stoplamps and


Back-up Lamps .........................................5-48
Replacement Bulbs .......................................5-49
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement ..............5-50
Tires ..............................................................5-51
Tire Sidewall Labelling ...................................5-52
Tire Terminology and Definitions .....................5-55
Inflation - Tire Pressure .................................5-57
Tire Inspection and Rotation ...........................5-59
When It Is Time for New Tires .......................5-60
Buying New Tires .........................................5-60
Uniform Tire Quality Grading ..........................5-61
Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance ..................5-63


5-1


Section 5


Service and Appearance Care


Wheel Replacement ......................................5-63
Tire Chains ..................................................5-64
Accessory Inflator .........................................5-65
If a Tire Goes Flat ........................................5-67
Changing a Flat Tire .....................................5-68
Removing the Spare Tire and Tools ................5-69
Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the


Spare Tire ................................................5-72
Secondary Latch System ...............................5-78
Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools ............5-80
Compact Spare Tire ......................................5-85
Appearance Care ............................................5-86
Fabric/Carpet ...............................................5-86
Vinyl ...........................................................5-88
Leather .......................................................5-88
Instrument Panel ..........................................5-88
Interior Plastic Components ............................5-89
Child Restraint Pad .......................................5-89
Glass Surfaces .............................................5-89
Care of Safety Belts and Built-in


Child Restraint Harness ..............................5-89
Weatherstrips ...............................................5-89
Washing Your Vehicle ...................................5-90


Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses .....................5-90
Finish Care ..................................................5-90
Windshield, Backglass, and Wiper Blades .........5-91
Aluminum Wheels .........................................5-91
Tires ...........................................................5-92
Sheet Metal Damage .....................................5-92
Finish Damage .............................................5-92
Underbody Maintenance ................................5-92
Chemical Paint Spotting .................................5-92
Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials ..................5-93
Vehicle Identification ......................................5-94
Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) .................5-94
Service Parts Identification Label .....................5-94
Electrical System ............................................5-95
Add-On Electrical Equipment ..........................5-95
Headlamp Wiring ..........................................5-95
Windshield Wiper Fuses ................................5-95
Power Windows and Other Power Options .......5-95
Fuses and Circuit Breakers ............................5-96
Instrument Panel Fuse Block ..........................5-96
Underhood Fuse Block ..................................5-98
Capacities and Specifications ........................5-101


5-2


Service Your dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you will go to your dealer for all your service needs. You will get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. We hope you will want to keep your GM vehicle all GM. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:


California Proposition 65 Warning Most motor vehicles, including this one, contain and/or emit chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. Engine exhaust, many parts and systems (including some inside the vehicle), many fluids, and some component wear by-products contain and/or emit these chemicals.


5-3


{CAUTION:


You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it.


(cid:127) Be sure you have sufficient knowledge,


experience, the proper replacement parts and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task.


(cid:127) Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts and


other fasteners. English and metric fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.


Doing Your Own Service Work If you want to do some of your own service work, you will want to use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 7-11. Your vehicle has an airbag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see Servicing Your Airbag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-85. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See Maintenance Record on page 6-15.


5-4


Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airflow around it. This may cause wind noise and affect windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle. Fuel Use of the recommended fuel is an important part of the proper maintenance of your vehicle.


Gasoline Octane Use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane of 87 or higher. If the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. Otherwise, you might damage your engine.


A little pinging noise when you accelerate or drive uphill is considered normal. This does not indicate a problem exists or that a higher-octane fuel is necessary. If you are using 87 octane or higher-octane fuel and hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service.


Gasoline Specifications It is recommended that gasoline meet specifications which were developed by automobile manufacturers around the world and contained in the World-Wide Fuel Charter which is available from the Alliance of Automobile Manufacturers at www.autoalliance.org/fuel_charter.htm. Gasoline meeting these specifications could provide improved driveability and emission control system performance compared to other gasoline.


5-5


California Fuel If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emission Standards, it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. See the underhood emission control label. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on and your vehicle may fail a smog-check test. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-40. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs may not be covered by your warranty.


Additives To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that will help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing your emission control system to work properly. In most cases, you should not have to add anything to your fuel. However, some gasolines contain only the minimum amount of additive required to meet U.S. Environmental Protection Agency regulations. General Motors recommends that you buy gasolines that are advertised to help keep fuel injectors and intake valves clean. If your vehicle experiences problems due to dirty injectors or valves, try a different brand of gasoline. Also, your GM dealer has additives that will help correct and prevent most deposit-related problems. Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in your area to contribute to clean air. General Motors recommends that you use these gasolines, particularly if they comply with the specifications described earlier.


5-6


Notice: Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage the plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under your warranty. Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT. General Motors does not recommend the use of such gasolines. Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for service.


Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel would not be covered by your warranty. To check the fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you will be driving.


5-7


Filling the Tank


{CAUTION:


Fuel vapor burns violently and a fuel fire can cause bad injuries. To help avoid injuries to you and others, read and follow all the instructions on the pump island. Turn off your engine when you are refueling. Do not smoke if you are near fuel or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, flames, and smoking materials away from fuel. Do not leave the fuel pump unattended when refueling your vehicle — this is against the law in some places. Keep children away from the fuel pump; never let children pump fuel.


5-8


The tethered fuel cap is located behind a hinged fuel door on the driver’s side of the vehicle. When the fuel door is opened on a vehicle with dual sliding doors, the driver’s side sliding door will only open partway. While refueling, let the fuel cap hang by the tether.


{CAUTION:


If you spill fuel and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any hiss noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.


Be careful not to spill fuel. Do not top off or overfill the tank and wait a few seconds after you have finished pumping before removing the nozzle. Clean fuel from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-90. When replacing the fuel cap, turn it to the right (clockwise) until it clicks. Make sure the cap is fully installed. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-40.


The CHECK GAS CAP message will be displayed in the Driver Information Center (DIC) if the fuel cap is not properly installed. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-51 for more information.


{CAUTION:


If a fire starts while you are refueling, do not remove the nozzle. Shut off the flow of fuel by shutting off the pump or by notifying the station attendant. Leave the area immediately.


If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get


Notice: the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage your fuel tank and emissions system. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-40.


5-9


Filling a Portable Fuel Container


{CAUTION:


Never fill a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others:


(cid:127) Dispense gasoline only into approved


containers.


(cid:127) Do not fill a container while it is inside a


vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed, or on any surface other than the ground. (cid:127) Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the


inside of the fill opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the filling is complete.


(cid:127) Do not smoke while pumping gasoline.


Checking Things Under the Hood


{CAUTION:


An electric fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.


{CAUTION:


Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.


5-10


Hood Release To open the hood, do the following:


1. Pull the hood release


handle with this symbol on it. It is located under the instrument panel on the driver’s side.


2. Go to the front of the vehicle and push the


underhood release to the right. It is located near the center of the hood, above the grille.


3. Lift the hood. 4. Pull up on the hood prop to release it from its


storage clip. The hood prop may be hot due to increased engine temperatures under the hood, so be careful when handling it. Use your hood prop sleeve when handling the hood prop.


5. Put the end of the hood prop into the slot in the underside of the hood, on the driver’s side of the vehicle. It is marked by an arrow.


Before closing the hood, be sure all the filler caps are on properly. Lift the hood to relieve pressure on the hood prop. Remove the hood prop from the slot in the hood and return the prop to its retainer. Then let the hood down and close it firmly.


5-11


Engine Compartment Overview When you open the hood, here is what you will see:


5-12


Engine Oil Checking Engine Oil It is a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground. The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine oil dipstick. 1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you do not do this, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.


2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.


A. Underhood Fuse Block. See Underhood Fuse Block


on page 5-98.


B. Remote Positive (+) Terminal. See Jump Starting on


page 5-39.


C. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding


Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-35.


D. Radiator Pressure Cap. See Radiator Pressure Cap


on page 5-24.


E. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See Power Steering


Fluid on page 5-34.


F. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”


under Engine Oil on page 5-13.


G. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”


under Engine Oil on page 5-13.


H. Automatic Transaxle Fluid Dipstick. See “Checking


the Fluid Level” under Automatic Transaxle Fluid on page 5-19.


I. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid”


under Brakes on page 5-36.


J. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air


Cleaner/Filter on page 5-18.


K. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank. See Cooling System


on page 5-27.


5-13


When to Add Engine Oil


See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12
for the location of the engine oil fill cap.


Be sure to add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range in the cross-hatched area. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you are through.


If the oil is at or below the cross-hatched area at the tip of the dipstick, then you will need to add at least one quart of oil. But you must use the right kind. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Specifications on page 5-101. Notice: Do not add too much oil. If the engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, the engine could be damaged.


5-14


What Kind of Engine Oil to Use


(cid:127) SAE 5W-30


As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50.


Oils meeting these requirements should also have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API).


Look for two things: (cid:127) GM6094M


Your vehicle’s engine requires oil meeting GM Standard GM6094M. You should look for and use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM6094M.


You should look for this information on the oil container, and use only those oils that are identified as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and have the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container.


5-15


Notice: Use only engine oil identified as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and showing the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty. GM Goodwrench® oil meets all the requirements for your vehicle. If you are in an area of extreme cold, where the temperature falls below −20°F (−29°C), it is recommended that you use either an SAE 5W-30
synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both will provide easier cold starting and better protection for your engine at extremely low temperatures. Engine Oil Additives Do not add anything to your oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol meet GM Standard GM6094M are all you will need for good performance and engine protection.


5-16


Engine Oil Life System When to Change Engine Oil Your vehicle has a computer system that lets you know when to change the engine oil and filter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change will be indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, you must reset the system every time the oil is changed. When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it will indicate that an oil change is necessary. A CHANGE OIL SOON message will come on. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-51. Change your oil as soon as possible within the next 600 miles (1 000 km). It is possible that, if you are driving under the best conditions, the oil life system may not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, your engine oil and filter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. Your dealer has GM-trained people who will perform this work using genuine GM parts and reset the system. It is also important to check your oil regularly and keep it at the proper level. If the system is ever reset accidentally, you must change your oil at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since your last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed.


How to Reset the Engine Oil Life System The Engine Oil Life System calculates when to change your engine oil and filter based on vehicle use. Anytime your oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where you change your oil prior to a CHANGE OIL SOON message being turned on, reset the system. 1. With the ignition key in RUN but the engine off, repeatedly push the trip/reset button until OIL is displayed on the Driver Information Center (DIC).


2. Once OIL is displayed, push and hold the trip/reset button for five seconds. The number will disappear and be replaced by 100 (indicating 100% oil life remaining).


3. Turn the key to LOCK. If the CHANGE OIL SOON message comes back on when you start your vehicle, the engine oil life system has not reset. Repeat the procedure.


What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the filter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station, or a local recycling center for help.


5-17


How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter To inspect the air cleaner/filter, remove the filter from the vehicle and lightly shake the filter to release loose dust and dirt. If the filter remains caked with dirt, a new filter is required. To inspect or replace the air cleaner/filter, do the following: 1. Remove the two clamps on the duct. 2. Remove the duct. 3. Unlatch the two hooks on top of the engine air


cleaner/filter housing.


4. Inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/filter. 5. Align the tabs located on the bottom of the panel


with the slots at the bottom of the housing.


6. Latch the hooks to secure the panel in place. If the panel moves easily, check that the tabs are seated correctly in the slots.


7. Put the duct back on and reinstall the clamps.


Engine Air Cleaner/Filter


See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine air cleaner/filter. When to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Inspect the air cleaner/filter at the Maintenance II intervals and replace at the first oil change after 50,000 miles (83 000 km). See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 for more information. If you are driving in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect the filter at each engine oil change.


5-18


{CAUTION:


Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps to stop flame if the engine backfires. If it is not there and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.


If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire


Notice: can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you are driving.


Automatic Transaxle Fluid When to Check and Change Automatic Transaxle Fluid A good time to check your automatic transaxle fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change both the fluid and filter every 50,000 miles (83 000 km) if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions:


In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or higher. In hilly or mountainous terrain.


(cid:127) When doing frequent trailer towing. (cid:127) Uses such as found in taxi, police, or delivery


service.


If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, change the fluid and filter at 100,000 miles (166 000 km). See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 for more information.


5-19


(cid:127) (cid:127) How to Check Automatic Transaxle Fluid Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick. Notice: Too much or too little fluid can damage the transaxle. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Too little fluid could cause the transaxle to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check the transaxle fluid. Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transaxle fluid level if you have been driving: (cid:127) When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C). (cid:127) At high speed for quite a while.


In heavy traffic — especially in hot weather.


(cid:127) While pulling a trailer.


To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), you may have to drive longer. Checking the Fluid Level Prepare your vehicle as follows: (cid:127) Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine


running.


(cid:127) With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever


in PARK (P).


(cid:127) With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P). Let the engine run at idle for three to five minutes.


5-20


(cid:127) (cid:127) Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps: The automatic transaxle dipstick is located toward the back of the engine compartment, next to the brake master cylinder reservoir. The dipstick handle is a red loop. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12
for more information on location. 1. Pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or


paper towel.


2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds, and


then pull it back out again.


3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the


lower level. The fluid level must be in the cross-hatched area.


4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the


dipstick back in all the way.


How to Add Automatic Transaxle Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transaxle fluid to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level into the cross-hatched area on the dipstick. 1. Pull out the dipstick. 2. Using a long-neck funnel, add enough fluid at the


dipstick hole to bring it to the proper level. It does not take much fluid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Do not overfill.


Notice: Use of automatic transaxle fluid labeled other than DEXRON®-III, Approved for the H-Specification, may damage your vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use automatic transaxle fluid labeled DEXRON®-III, Approved for the H-Specification. 3. After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as described under “How to Check Automatic Transaxle Fluid,” earlier in this section.


4. When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the


dipstick back in all the way.


5-21


What Engine Coolant to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL® coolant which will not damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you do not need to add anything else.


{CAUTION:


Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.


Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for five years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if you add only DEX-COOL® extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating on page 5-25. A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant will: (cid:127) Give freezing protection down to −34°F (−37°C). (cid:127) Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C). (cid:127) Protect against rust and corrosion. (cid:127) Help keep the proper engine temperature.


Let the warning messages and gages work as they should.


Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle.


5-22


(cid:127) If you use an improper coolant mixture,


Notice: your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system. Notice: have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful.


If you use the proper coolant, you do not


Checking Coolant


The coolant recovery tank is located on the driver’s side of the vehicle, above the engine air cleaner/filter. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.


The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the full cold mark, or a little higher. When your engine is warm, the level should be above the full cold mark or a little higher. The full cold mark is a line with an arrow pointing down at it, located on the front of the coolant recovery tank.


5-23


Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture at the coolant recovery tank, but be careful not to spill it.


{CAUTION:


Turning the radiator pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. With the coolant recovery tank, you will almost never have to add coolant at the radiator. Never turn the radiator pressure cap — even a little — when the engine and radiator are hot.


{CAUTION:


You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.


Occasionally check the coolant level in the radiator. For information on how to add coolant to the radiator, see Cooling System on page 5-27.


Radiator Pressure Cap Notice: The radiator cap on your vehicle is a pressure-type cap and must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss and possible engine damage from overheating. Be sure the arrows on the cap line up with the overflow tube on the radiator filler neck. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12
for more information on location.


5-24


Engine Overheating You will find an engine coolant temperature gage on your vehicle’s instrument panel. See Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 3-39. Your vehicle may also have an ENGINE COOLANT HOT message displayed in the Driver Information Center (DIC). See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-51. If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine


{CAUTION:


Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. CAUTION:


(Continued)


CAUTION:


(Continued)


If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 5-27 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency.


If your engine catches fire because you


Notice: keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 5-27 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency.


5-25


If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine If you get an engine overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: (cid:127) Climb a long hill on a hot day. (cid:127) Stop after high-speed driving. Idle for long periods in traffic. Tow a trailer.


If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. If your air conditioner is on, turn it off. 2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan


speed and open the windows as necessary.


3. If you are in a traffic jam, shift to NEUTRAL (N);


otherwise, shift to the highest gear while driving — AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE (D) or THIRD (3).


If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning does not come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there is still no sign of steam, idle the engine for three minutes while you are parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. Also, see “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” later in this section. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.


5-26


(cid:127) (cid:127) Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode This emergency operating mode allows your vehicle to be driven to a safe place in an emergency situation. If an overheated engine condition exists, an overheat protection mode which alternates firing groups of cylinders helps prevent engine damage. In this mode, you will notice a significant loss in power and engine performance. The temperature gage will indicate an overheat condition exists. Driving extended miles (km) and/or towing a trailer in the overheat protection mode should be avoided. Notice: After driving in the overheated engine protection operating mode, to avoid engine damage, allow the engine to cool before attempting any repair. The engine oil will be severely degraded. Repair the cause of coolant loss, change the oil and reset the oil life system. See Engine Oil on page 5-13.


Cooling System When you decide it is safe to lift the hood, here is what you will see:


A. Radiator Pressure Cap B. Electric Engine Cooling Fans C. Coolant Recovery Tank


5-27


{CAUTION:


{CAUTION:


An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.


If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface. The coolant level should be at or above the full cold mark. If it is not, you may have a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system.


Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.


If there seems to be no leak, with the engine on, check to see if the electric engine cooling fans are running. If the engine is overheating, both fans should be running. If they are not, your vehicle needs service.


5-28


Notice: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant is not covered by your warranty. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 5-27 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle.


How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Recovery Tank If you have not found a problem yet, but the coolant level is not at or above the full cold mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® engine coolant at the coolant recovery tank. See Engine Coolant on page 5-22 for more information.


{CAUTION:


Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.


5-29


In cold weather, water can freeze and crack


Notice: the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture. When the coolant in the coolant recovery tank is at or above the full cold mark, start your vehicle.


{CAUTION:


You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.


If the overheat warning continues, there is one more thing you can try. You can add the proper coolant mixture directly to the radiator, but be sure the cooling system is cool before you do it.


{CAUTION:


Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the radiator pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and radiator pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.


5-30


How to Add Coolant to the Radiator Notice: Your engine has a specific radiator fill procedure. Failure to follow this procedure could cause your engine to overheat and be severely damaged.


Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise until it first stops. Do not press down while turning the pressure cap. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.


2. Then keep turning the pressure cap, but now push


down as you turn it. Remove the pressure cap.


{CAUTION:


You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.


1. You can remove the radiator pressure cap when


the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot.


5-31


Housing


Bypass Tube


3. After the engine cools, open the coolant air bleed


valves. There are two bleed valves. One is located on the thermostat housing. The other is located on the thermostat bypass tube.


4. Fill the radiator with the proper DEX-COOL®


coolant mixture, up to the base of the filler neck. See Engine Coolant on page 5-22 for more information about the proper coolant mixture. If you see a stream of coolant coming from an air bleed valve, close the valve. Otherwise, close the valves after the radiator is filled.


5. Rinse or wipe any spilled coolant from the engine


and the compartment.


5-32


9. Then fill the coolant recovery tank to the


full cold mark.


10. Put the cap back on the coolant recovery tank.


6. Start the engine and let it run until you can feel the


upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fans.


7. By this time, the coolant level inside the radiator filler neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture through the filler neck until the level reaches the base of the filler neck.


8. Then replace the pressure cap. At any time during


this procedure if coolant begins to flow out of the filler neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure the arrows on the pressure cap line up with the vent tube.


5-33


Power Steering Fluid


See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12
for reservoir location.


When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.


How to Check Power Steering Fluid To check the power steering fluid, do the following: 1. Turn the key off and let the engine compartment


cool down.


2. Wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean. 3. Unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a


clean rag.


4. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. 5. Remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on


the dipstick.


When the engine compartment is hot, the level should be at the H (hot) mark. When it is cold, the level should be at the C (cold) mark. If the fluid is at the ADD mark, you should add fluid. What Power Steering Fluid to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.


5-34


Windshield Washer Fluid What Washer Fluid to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing. Adding Washer Fluid


Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer fluid until the tank is full. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for reservoir location.


Notice: (cid:127) When using concentrated washer fluid,


follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.


(cid:127) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid.


Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer fluid. Fill your washer fluid tank only three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.


(cid:127) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.


5-35


(cid:127) Brakes Brake Fluid


Your brake master cylinder reservoir is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12
for the location of the reservoir.


There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes will not work well, or will not work at all.


5-36


So, it is not a good idea to top off your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid will not correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you will have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add or remove brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.


{CAUTION:


If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.


When your brake fluid falls to a low level, your brake warning light will come on. See Brake System Warning Light on page 3-37.


What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12.


Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.


{CAUTION:


With the wrong kind of fluid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.


Notice: (cid:127) Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Appearance Care on page 5-86.


Brake Wear Your vehicle has four-wheel disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving, except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly.


{CAUTION:


The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.


Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair. Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes.


5-37


(cid:127) Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM torque specifications. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you apply the brakes, with or without the vehicle moving, your brakes adjust for wear.


Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system —for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you do not, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance you have come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.


5-38


Battery Your vehicle has a maintenance free battery. When it is time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco® replacement battery. Warning: Battery posts, terminals and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling. Vehicle Storage If you are not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.


{CAUTION:


Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 5-39
for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.


Jump Starting If your battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely. On vehicles equipped with the optional power sliding door, a low-voltage battery or replacing a battery may cause the system to become inoperative. See Power Sliding Door (PSD) on page 2-17 for more information.


{CAUTION:


Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:


(cid:127) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:127) They contain gas that can explode or ignite. (cid:127) They contain enough electricity to burn you. If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.


5-39


If you leave your radio or other accessories


Notice: on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and other accessories when jump starting your vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug


unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or the accessory power outlet. Turn off the radio and all lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save the radio!


4. Open the hoods and locate the batteries. Find the positive (+) and negative (−) terminal locations on each vehicle. You will not need to access your battery for jump starting. Your vehicle has a remote positive (+) jump starting terminal for that purpose.


Ignoring these steps could result in costly


Notice: damage to your vehicle that would not be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage your vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt


battery with a negative ground system.


If the other vehicle’s system is not a 12-volt


Notice: system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transaxle in PARK (P) or a manual transaxle in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake.


5-40


The terminal is located under a tethered cap at the front of the underhood fuse block. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.


Squeeze the tabs and swing the cap out of the way to access the remote positive (+) terminal. You should always use the remote positive (+) terminal instead of the positive (+) terminal on your battery.


{CAUTION:


An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.


{CAUTION:


Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you do not, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.


5-41


7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect it


to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.


8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part, or to a remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.


9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable at


least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less.


10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run


the engine for a while.


11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery.


If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service.


{CAUTION:


Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.


5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or


missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks. 6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+)


terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.


5-42


If the jumper cables are connected or


Notice: removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always connect and remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal.


To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the


vehicle that had the dead battery.


2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the


vehicle with the good battery.


3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the


vehicle with the good battery.


4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the


other vehicle.


5. Return the remote positive (+) terminal cover to its


original position.


Jumper Cable Removal A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal


5-43


How to Check Lubricant


All-Wheel Drive If you have an all-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure to perform the lubricant checks described in this section. All-wheel-drive vehicles have two additional systems that need lubrication. Transfer Case (Power Transfer Unit) When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4.


To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, located on the transfer case, you will need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12.


5-44


Carrier Assembly-Differential (Rear Drive Module) When to Check and Change Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4. How to Check Lubricant


If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, located on the differential, you will need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. A fluid loss could indicate a problem; check and have it repaired, if needed. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12.


To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface.


5-45


Headlamps and Sidemarker Lamps


Bulb Replacement For the proper type of replacement bulbs, see Replacement Bulbs on page 5-49. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer.


Halogen Bulbs


{CAUTION:


Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.


A. High-beam Headlamp B. Low-Beam Headlamp C. Sidemarker Lamp


5-46


To replace one of these bulbs, do the following: 1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on page 5-11


for more information.


4. Pull the assembly away from the vehicle. 5. Disconnect the socket wiring harness connector


from the headlamp assembly.


6. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise to remove


from the assembly.


7. To replace a headlamp bulb, disconnect the bulb


socket wiring harness and connect to the new bulb socket. To replace a sidemarker bulb, pull the old bulb out and push a new bulb in.


8. Reinstall the bulb socket by inserting into the bulb


assembly and turning it clockwise to secure. 9. Reverse the steps to reinstall the headlamp


assembly.


2. Remove the headlamp retainer pin (A) by turning it


towards the headlamp assembly and pulling it straight out.


3. Remove the screw (B) from the top of the headlamp


assembly.


5-47


Front Turn Signal, Parking and Daytime Running Lamps (DRL)


To replace one of these bulbs (A), do the following: 1. Follow the Steps 1 through 4 to remove the headlamp


assembly. See Headlamps and Sidemarker Lamps on page 5-46 for more information.


2. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise to remove


from the assembly.


3. Pull the old bulb out from the bulb socket. 4. Replace with a new bulb 5. Reinstall the bulb socket by inserting into the bulb


assembly and turning it clockwise to secure. 6. Reverse the steps to reinstall the headlamp


assembly.


5-48


Taillamps, Turn Signal, Stoplamps and Back-up Lamps To change a stoplamp/taillamp, turn signal or back-up lamp bulb, do the following: 1. Open the liftgate. See Liftgate on page 2-23 for


more information.


2. Remove the


two screws from the taillamp housing on the inboard side.


3. Pull out the taillamp housing. 4. Disconnect the wiring harness connector from the


taillamp assembly.


7. Replace the bulb socket by inserting and turning


clockwise to secure.


8. Reinstall the taillamp assembly by inserting the


outboard locating/retaining pins until the lamp is seated.


9. Secure with the inboard screws.


Replacement Bulbs


Exterior Lamp


Bulb Number


Back-up Front Turn Signal, DRL and Parking High-Beam and Low-Beam Headlamps Sidemarker Stoplamp, Taillamp and Turn Signal


3057K 5702KA


H11


194


3057K


For replacement bulbs not listed here, contact your dealer.


5-49


A. Stoplamp/Taillamp B. Turn Signal Lamp C. Back-up Lamp Bulb


5. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise to remove. 6. Replace the bulb by pulling the old bulb out of


the socket and gently pushing in a new bulb.


Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected at least twice a year for wear and cracking. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 for more information. Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. For proper type and length, see Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 6-14. To replace the windshield wiper blade assembly do the following: 1. Lift the wiper arm and turn the blade until it is


facing away from the windshield.


5-50


2. Squeeze the tabs (B) on each side of the wiper


blade assembly to remove the wiper arm (A) from the blade (C).


Notice: Allowing the wiper blade arm to touch the windshield when no wiper blade is installed could damage the windshield. Any damage that occurs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not allow the wiper blade arm to touch the windshield. 3. Push the new wiper blade securely on the wiper arm until you hear the tabs on each side of the wiper blade assembly click into place.


To replace the rear wiper blade, follow the steps listed above.


Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your GM Warranty booklet for details. For additional information refer to the tire manufacturer’s booklet included with your vehicle’s Owner Manual.


{CAUTION:


Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous.


(cid:127) Overloading your tires can cause


overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-33.


CAUTION:


(Continued)


(cid:127) Underinflated tires pose the same danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-57.


(cid:127) Overinflated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured or broken by a sudden impact —such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure.


(cid:127) Worn, old tires can cause accidents.


If your tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them.


CAUTION:


(Continued)


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Tire Sidewall Labelling Useful information about a tire is molded into its sidewall. The examples below show a typical passenger vehicle tire and a compact spare tire sidewall.


Passenger (P-Metric) Tire Example


(A) Tire Size: The tire size is a combination of letters and numbers used to define a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail.


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(B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines. (C) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards. (D) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT (Department of Transportation) code is the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (E) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (F) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction and temperature resistance. For more information see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-61. (G) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load.


(C) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following the DOT (Department of Transportation) code is the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture.


(D) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load.


(E) Tire Inflation: The temporary use tire or compact spare tire should be inflated to 60 psi (420 kPa). For more information on tire pressure and inflation see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-57.


(F) Tire Size: A combination of letters and numbers define a tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type and service description. The letter T as the first character in the tire size means the tire is for temporary use only.


(G) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines.


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Compact Spare Tire Example


(A) Temporary Use Only: The compact spare tire or temporary use tire has a tread life of approximately 3,000 miles (5 000 km) and should not be driven at speeds over 65 mph (105 km/h). The compact spare tire is for emergency use when a regular road tire has lost air and gone flat. If your vehicle has a compact spare tire, see Compact Spare Tire on page 5-85
and If a Tire Goes Flat on page 5-67. (B) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread.


Tire Size The following illustration shows an example of a typical passenger vehicle tire size.


(A) Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter P as the first character in the tire size means a passenger vehicle tire engineered to standards set by the U.S. Tire and Rim Association.


(B) Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall.


(C) Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is 60, as shown in item C of the illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is 60 percent as high as it is wide.


(D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter R means radial ply construction; the letter D means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter B means belted-bias ply construction.


(E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches.


(F) Service Description: These characters represent the load range and speed rating of the tire. The load index represents the load carry capacity a tire is certified to carry. The load index can range from 1 to 279. The speed rating is the maximum speed a tire is certified to carry a load. Speed ratings range from A to Z.


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Tire Terminology and Definitions Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa).


Accessory Weight: This means the combined weight of optional accessories. Some examples of optional accessories are, automatic transmission, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air conditioning.


Curb Weight: This means the weight of a motor vehicle with standard and optional equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil and coolant, but without passengers and cargo.


DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identification Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand and date of production.


Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire’s height to its width.


GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-33.


Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials.


Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim.


Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the plies are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.


Cold Inflation Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up heat from driving. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-57.


GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front axle, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-33.


GAWR RR: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-33.


Intended Outboard Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire, that must always face outward when mounted on a vehicle.


Kilopascal (kPa): The metric unit for air pressure.


Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: A tire used on light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles.


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Load Index: An assigned number ranging from 1 to 279 that corresponds to the load carrying capacity of a tire.


Maximum Inflation Pressure: The maximum air pressure to which a cold tire may be inflated. The maximum air pressure is molded onto the sidewall.


Maximum Load Rating: The load rating for a tire at the maximum permissible inflation pressure for that tire.


Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight: The sum of curb weight; accessory weight; vehicle capacity weight; and production options weight.


Recommended Inflation Pressure: Vehicle manufacturer’s recommended tire inflation pressure and shown on the tire placard. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-57 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-33.


Radial Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.


Rim: A metal support for a tire and upon which the tire beads are seated.


Sidewall: The portion of a tire between the tread and the bead.


Normal Occupant Weight: The number of occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-33.


Speed Rating: An alphanumeric code assigned to a tire indicating the maximum speed at which a tire can operate.


Occupant Distribution: Designated seating positions.


Outward Facing Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that faces outward when mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears white lettering or bears manufacturer, brand, and/or model name molding that is higher or deeper than the same moldings on the other sidewall of the tire.


Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: A tire used on passenger cars and some light duty trucks and multipurpose vehicles.


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Traction: The friction between the tire and the road surface. The amount of grip provided.


Tread: The portion of a tire that comes into contact with the road.


Treadwear Indicators: Narrow bands, sometimes called “wear bars,” that show across the tread of a tire when only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) of tread remains. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-60.


UTQGS (Uniform Tire Quality Grading Standards): A tire information system that provides consumers with ratings for a tire’s traction, temperature, and treadwear. Ratings are determined by tire manufacturers using government testing procedures. The ratings are molded into the sidewall of the tire. See Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-61.


Vehicle Capacity Weight: The number of designated seating positions multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg) plus the rated cargo load. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-33.


Vehicle Maximum Load on the Tire: Load on an individual tire due to curb weight, accessory weight, occupant weight, and cargo weight.


Vehicle Placard: A label permanently attached to a vehicle showing the vehicle’s capacity weight and the original equipment tire size and recommended inflation pressure. See “Tire and Loading Information Label” under Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-33.


Inflation - Tire Pressure Tires need the correct amount of air pressure to operate effectively. Notice: Do not let anyone tell you that under-inflation or over-inflation is all right. It is not. If your tires do not have enough air (under-inflation), you can get the following:


Too much flexing Too much heat Tire overloading


(cid:127) Premature or irregular wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Reduced fuel economy If your tires have too much air (over-inflation), you can get the following: (cid:127) Unusual wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Rough ride (cid:127) Needless damage from road hazards


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(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) A Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar), below the driver’s door latch. This label shows your vehicle’s original equipment tires and the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they are cold. The recommended cold tire inflation pressure, shown on the label, is the minimum amount of air pressure needed to support your vehicle’s maximum load carrying capacity. For additional information regarding how much weight your vehicle can carry, and an example of the tire and loading information label, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-33. How you load your vehicle affects vehicle handling and ride comfort, never load your vehicle with more weight than it was designed to carry. When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Do not forget to check the compact spare tire, it should be at 60 psi (420 kPa). For additional information regarding the compact spare tire, see Compact Spare Tire on page 5-85.


How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You cannot tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they are under-inflated. Check the tire’s inflation pressure when the tires are cold. Cold means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km). Remove the valve cap from the tire valve stem. Press the tire gage firmly onto the valve to get a pressure measurement. If the cold tire inflation pressure matches the recommended pressure on the Tire and Loading Information label, no further adjustment is necessary. If the inflation pressure is low, add air until you reach the recommended amount. If you overfill the tire, release air by pushing on the metal stem in the center of the tire valve. Re-check the tire pressure with the tire gage. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.


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Tire Inspection and Rotation Tires should be rotated every 5,000 to 8,000 miles (8 000 to 13 000 km). Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-60 and Wheel Replacement on page 5-63 for more information. The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The first rotation is the most important. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4.


When rotating your tires, always use the correct rotation pattern shown here.


Do not include the compact spare tire in your tire rotation. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the Tire and

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