2008 Chevrolet Silverado Owners Manual

drink and drive or ride with a driver who has been drinking. See Drunk Driving on page 4-2.

Driving on Off-Road Hills Off-road driving often takes you up, down, or across a hill. Driving safely on hills requires good judgment and an understanding of what your vehicle can and cannot do. There are some hills that simply cannot be driven, no matter how well built the vehicle.

{CAUTION:

Many hills are simply too steep for any vehicle. If you drive up them, you will stall. If you drive down them, you cannot control your speed. If you drive across them, you will roll over. You could be seriously injured or killed. If you have any doubt about the steepness, do not drive the hill.

4-17

Approaching a Hill When you approach a hill, you need to decide if it is one of those hills that is just too steep to climb, descend, or cross. Steepness can be hard to judge. On a very small hill, for example, there may be a smooth, constant incline with only a small change in elevation where you can easily see all the way to the top. On a large hill, the incline may get steeper as you near the top, but you may not see this because the crest of the hill is hidden by bushes, grass or shrubs. Here are some other things to consider as you approach a hill. (cid:127) Is there a constant incline, or does the hill get

sharply steeper in places?

(cid:127) Is there good traction on the hillside, or will the

surface cause tire slipping?

(cid:127) Is there a straight path up or down the hill so you

will not have to make turning maneuvers?

(cid:127) Are there obstructions on the hill that can block your

path, such as boulders, trees, logs, or ruts?

(cid:127) What is beyond the hill? Is there a cliff, an

embankment, a drop-off, a fence? Get out and walk the hill if you do not know. It is the smart way to find out.

(cid:127) Is the hill simply too rough? Steep hills often have ruts, gullies, troughs, and exposed rocks because they are more susceptible to the effects of erosion.

4-18

Driving Uphill Once you decide you can safely drive up the hill, you need to take some special steps. (cid:127) Use a low gear and get a firm grip on the steering

wheel.

(cid:127) Get a smooth start up the hill and try to maintain

your speed. Do not use more power than you need, because you do not want the wheels to start spinning or sliding.

{CAUTION:

Turning or driving across steep hills can be dangerous. You could lose traction, slide sideways, and possibly roll over. You could be seriously injured or killed. When driving up hills, always try to go straight up.

(cid:127) Try to drive straight up the hill if at all possible. If the path twists and turns, you might want to find another route.

(cid:127) Ease up on your speed as you approach the top of

the hill.

(cid:127) Attach a flag to the vehicle to make you more visible to approaching traffic on trails or hills.

(cid:127) Sound the horn as you approach the top of the hill

to let opposing traffic know you are there.

(cid:127) Use your headlamps even during the day. They

make your vehicle more visible to oncoming traffic.

{CAUTION:

Driving to the top (crest) of a hill at full speed can cause an accident. There could be a drop-off, embankment, cliff, or even another vehicle. You could be seriously injured or killed. As you near the top of a hill, slow down and stay alert.

4-19

There are also some things you must not do if you stall, or are about to stall, when going up a hill: (cid:127) Never attempt to prevent a stall by shifting into NEUTRAL (N) to rev-up the engine and regain forward momentum. This will not work. Your vehicle will roll backwards very quickly and you could go out of control. Instead, apply the regular brake to stop the vehicle. Then apply the parking brake. Shift to REVERSE (R), release the parking brake, and slowly back straight down.

(cid:127) Never attempt to turn around if you are about to

stall when going up a hill. If the hill is steep enough to stall your vehicle, it is steep enough to cause you to roll over if you turn around. If you cannot make it up the hill, you must back straight down the hill.

There are some things you should do if the vehicle stalls, or is about to stall, and you cannot make it up the hill: (cid:127) Push the brake pedal to stop the vehicle and keep it

from rolling backwards. Also, apply the parking brake.

(cid:127) If the engine is still running, shift the transmission to REVERSE (R), release the parking brake, and slowly back down the hill in REVERSE (R).

(cid:127) If the engine has stopped running, you will need to

restart it. With the brake pedal pressed and the parking brake still applied, shift the transmission to PARK (P) and restart the engine. Then, shift to REVERSE (R), release the parking brake, and slowly back down the hill as straight as possible in REVERSE (R).

(cid:127) As you are backing down the hill, put your left hand on the steering wheel at the 12 o’clock position. This way, you will be able to tell if the wheels are straight and maneuver as you back down. It is best that you back down the hill with the wheels straight rather than in the left or right direction. Turning the wheel too far to the left or right will increase the possibility of a rollover.

4-20

Driving Downhill When off-roading takes you downhill, you will want to consider a number of things: (cid:127) How steep is the downhill? Will I be able to maintain

vehicle control?

(cid:127) What is the surface like? Smooth? Rough?

Slippery? Hard-packed dirt? Gravel?

(cid:127) Are there hidden surface obstacles? Ruts? Logs?

Boulders?

(cid:127) What is at the bottom of the hill? Is there a hidden

creek bank or even a river bottom with large rocks?

If, after stalling, you try to back down the hill and decide you just cannot do it, set the parking brake, put the transmission in PARK (P) and turn off the engine. Leave the vehicle and go get some help. Exit on the uphill side and stay clear of the path the vehicle would take if it rolled downhill. Do not shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL when you leave the vehicle. Leave it in some gear.

{CAUTION:

Shifting the transfer case to NEUTRAL can cause your vehicle to roll even if the transmission is in PARK (P). This is because the NEUTRAL position on the transfer case overrides the transmission. You or someone else could be injured. If you are going to leave your vehicle, set the parking brake and shift the transmission to PARK (P). But do not shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL. Leave the transfer case in the Two-Wheel High, Four-Wheel High or Four-Wheel Low position.

4-21

If you decide you can go down a hill safely, then try to keep your vehicle headed straight down, and use a low gear. This way, engine drag can help the brakes and they will not have to do all the work. Descend slowly, keeping your vehicle under control at all times.

{CAUTION:

Heavy braking when going down a hill can cause your brakes to overheat and fade. This could cause loss of control and a serious accident. Apply the brakes lightly when descending a hill and use a low gear to keep vehicle speed under control.

There some things not to do when driving down a hill. These are important because, if you ignore them, you could lose control and have a serious accident: (cid:127) When driving downhill, avoid turns that take

you across the incline of the hill. A hill that is not too steep to drive down may be too steep to drive across. You could roll over if you do not drive straight down.

(cid:127) Never go downhill with the transmission in

NEUTRAL (N). This is called “free-wheeling.” The brakes will have to do all the work and could overheat and fade.

Your vehicle is much more likely to stall when going uphill. But if it happens when going downhill: 1. Stop your vehicle by applying the regular brakes.

Apply the parking brake.

2. Shift to PARK (P) and, while still braking, restart the

engine.

3. Shift back to a low gear, release the parking brake,

and drive straight down.

4. If the engine will not start, get out and get help.

4-22

Driving Across an Incline Sooner or later, an off-road trail will probably go across the incline of a hill. If this happens, you have to decide whether to try to drive across the incline. Here are some things to consider:

{CAUTION:

Driving across an incline that is too steep will make your vehicle roll over. You could be seriously injured or killed. If you have any doubt about the steepness of the incline, do not drive across it. Find another route instead.

(cid:127) A hill that can be driven straight up or down may be too steep to drive across. When you go straight up or down a hill, the length of the wheel base — the distance from the front wheels to the rear wheels — reduces the likelihood the vehicle will tumble end over end. But when you drive across an incline, the much more narrow track width — the distance between the left and right wheels — may not prevent the vehicle from tilting and rolling over. Also, driving across an incline puts more weight on the downhill wheels. This could cause a downhill slide or a rollover.

(cid:127) Surface conditions can be a problem when you drive across a hill. Loose gravel, muddy spots, or even wet grass can cause your tires to slip sideways, downhill. If the vehicle slips sideways, it can hit something that will trip it — a rock, a rut, etc. — and roll over.

(cid:127) Hidden obstacles can make the steepness of the

incline even worse. If you drive across a rock with the uphill wheels, or if the downhill wheels drop into a rut or depression, your vehicle can tilt even more. For reasons like these, you need to decide carefully whether to try to drive across an incline. Just because the trail goes across the incline does not mean you have to drive it. The last vehicle to try it might have rolled over. When driving across an incline that is not too steep, the vehicle can hit some loose gravel and start to slide downhill. If you feel your vehicle starting to slide sideways, turn downhill. This should help straighten out the vehicle and prevent the side slipping. However, a much better way to prevent this is to get out and “walk the course” so you know what the surface is like before you drive it.

4-23

Stalling on an Incline

{CAUTION:

Getting out on the downhill (low) side of a vehicle stopped across an incline is dangerous. If the vehicle rolls over, you could be crushed or killed. Always get out on the uphill (high) side of the vehicle and stay well clear of the rollover path.

4-24

If your vehicle stalls when you are crossing an incline, be sure you, and any passengers, get out on the uphill side, even if the door there is harder to open. If you get out on the downhill side and the vehicle starts to roll over, you will be right in its path. If you have to walk down the slope, stay out of the path the vehicle will take if it does roll over.

Driving in Mud, Sand, Snow, or Ice When you drive in mud, snow, or sand, your wheels will not get good traction. You cannot accelerate as quickly, turning is more difficult, and you will need longer braking distances. If your vehicle has four-wheel drive, see Four-Wheel Drive on page 2-36 for transfer case mode selection. It is best to use a low gear when you are in mud — the deeper the mud, the lower the gear. In really deep mud, the idea is to keep your vehicle moving so you do not get stuck. When you drive on sand, you will sense a change in wheel traction. But it will depend upon how loosely packed the sand is. On loosely packed sand, such as on beaches or sand dunes, your tires will tend to sink into the sand. This has an effect on steering, accelerating, and braking. Drive at a reduced speed and avoid sharp turns or abrupt maneuvers.

Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire traction. On these surfaces, it is very easy to lose control. On wet ice, for example, the traction is so poor that you will have difficulty accelerating. And if you do get moving, poor steering and difficult braking can cause you to slide out of control.

{CAUTION:

Driving on frozen lakes, ponds, or rivers can be dangerous. Underwater springs, currents under the ice, or sudden thaws can weaken the ice. Your vehicle could fall through the ice and you and your passengers could drown. Drive your vehicle on safe surfaces only.

4-25

Driving in Water

{CAUTION:

Driving through rushing water can be dangerous. Deep water can sweep your vehicle downstream and you and your passengers could drown. If it is only shallow water, it can still wash away the ground from under your tires, and you could lose traction and roll the vehicle over. Do not drive through rushing water.

Heavy rain can mean flash flooding, and flood waters demand extreme caution. Find out how deep the water is before you drive through it. If it is deep enough to cover the wheel hubs, axles, or exhaust pipe, do not try it — you probably will not get through. Also, water that deep can damage the axle and other vehicle parts.

If the water is not too deep, drive slowly through it. At faster speeds, water splashes on the ignition system and your vehicle can stall. Stalling can also occur if you get the tailpipe under water. And, as long as the tailpipe is under water, you will never be able to start the engine. When you go through water, remember that when the brakes get wet, it may take you longer to stop. See Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads on page 4-28
for more information on driving through water. After Off-Road Driving Remove any brush or debris that has collected on the underbody, chassis, or under the hood. These accumulations can be a fire hazard. After operation in mud or sand, have the brake linings cleaned and checked. These substances can cause glazing and uneven braking. Check the body structure, steering, suspension, wheels, tires, and exhaust system for damage. Also, check the fuel lines and cooling system for any leakage. Your vehicle will require more frequent service due to off-road use. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule for additional information.

4-26

Driving at Night Night driving is more dangerous than day driving because some drivers are likely to be impaired — by alcohol or drugs, with night vision problems, or by fatigue. Night driving tips include: (cid:127) Drive defensively. (cid:127) Do not drink and drive. (cid:127) Reduce headlamp glare by adjusting the inside

rearview mirror.

(cid:127) Slow down and keep more space between you and other vehicles because headlamps can only light up so much road ahead.

(cid:127) Watch for animals. (cid:127) When tired, pull off the road.

(cid:127) Do not wear sunglasses. (cid:127) Avoid staring directly into approaching headlamps. (cid:127) Keep the windshield and all glass on your vehicle

clean — inside and out.

(cid:127) Keep your eyes moving, especially during turns or

curves.

No one can see as well at night as in the daytime. But, as we get older, these differences increase. A 50-year-old driver might need at least twice as much light to see the same thing at night as a 20-year-old.

4-27

Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads Rain and wet roads can reduce vehicle traction and affect your ability to stop and accelerate. Always drive slower in these types of driving conditions and avoid driving through large puddles and deep-standing or flowing water.

{CAUTION:

Wet brakes can cause crashes. They might not work as well in a quick stop and could cause pulling to one side. You could lose control of the vehicle. After driving through a large puddle of water or a car/vehicle wash, lightly apply the brake pedal until the brakes work normally.

CAUTION:

(Continued)

CAUTION:

(Continued)

Flowing or rushing water creates strong forces. Driving through flowing water could cause your vehicle to be carried away. If this happens, you and other vehicle occupants could drown. Do not ignore police warnings and be very cautious about trying to drive through flowing water.

Hydroplaning Hydroplaning is dangerous. Water can build up under your vehicle’s tires so they actually ride on the water. This can happen if the road is wet enough and you are going fast enough. When your vehicle is hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road. There is no hard and fast rule about hydroplaning. The best advice is to slow down when the road is wet.

4-28

Other Rainy Weather Tips Besides slowing down, other wet weather driving tips include: (cid:127) Allow extra following distance. (cid:127) Pass with caution. (cid:127) Keep windshield wiping equipment in good shape. (cid:127) Keep the windshield washer fluid reservoir filled. (cid:127) Have good tires with proper tread depth. See Tires

on page 5-68.

Before Leaving on a Long Trip To prepare your vehicle for a long trip, consider having it serviced by your dealer/retailer before departing. Things to check on your own include: (cid:127) Windshield Washer Fluid: Reservoir full? Windows

clean — inside and outside?

(cid:127) Wiper Blades: In good shape? (cid:127) Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: All levels checked?

(cid:127) Lamps: Do they all work and are lenses clean? (cid:127) Tires: Are treads good? Are tires inflated to

recommended pressure?

(cid:127) Weather and Maps: Safe to travel? Have

up-to-date maps?

Highway Hypnosis Always be alert and pay attention to your surroundings while driving. If you become tired or sleepy, find a safe place to park your vehicle and rest. Other driving tips include: (cid:127) Keep the vehicle well ventilated. (cid:127) Keep interior temperature cool. (cid:127) Keep your eyes moving — scan the road ahead

and to the sides.

(cid:127) Check the rearview mirror and vehicle instruments

often.

4-29

Hill and Mountain Roads Driving on steep hills or through mountains is different than driving on flat or rolling terrain. Tips for driving in these conditions include: (cid:127) Keep your vehicle serviced and in good shape. (cid:127) Check all fluid levels and brakes, tires, cooling

system, and transmission.

(cid:127) Going down steep or long hills, shift to a

lower gear.

{CAUTION:

If you do not shift down, the brakes could get so hot that they would not work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Shift down to let the engine assist the brakes on a steep downhill slope.

{CAUTION:

Coasting downhill in NEUTRAL (N) or with the ignition off is dangerous. The brakes will have to do all the work of slowing down and they could get so hot that they would not work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Always have the engine running and your vehicle in gear when you go downhill.

(cid:127) Stay in your own lane. Do not swing wide or cut

across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let you stay in your own lane.

(cid:127) Top of hills: Be alert — something could be in your

lane (stalled car, accident).

(cid:127) Pay attention to special road signs (falling rocks

area, winding roads, long grades, passing or no-passing zones) and take appropriate action. See Off-Road Driving on page 4-12 for information about driving off-road.

4-30

Winter Driving Here are some tips for winter driving: (cid:127) Have your vehicle in good shape for winter. (cid:127) You might want to put winter emergency supplies in

your vehicle.

Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a supply of windshield washer fluid, a rag, some winter outer clothing, a small shovel, a flashlight, a red cloth, and reflective warning triangles. And, if you will be driving under severe conditions, include a small bag of sand, a piece of old carpet, or a couple of burlap bags to help provide traction. Be sure you properly secure these items in your vehicle. Also see Tires on page 5-68. Driving on Snow or Ice Most of the time, those places where the tires meet the road probably have good traction. However, if there is snow or ice between the tires and the road, you can have a very slippery situation. You have a lot less traction, or grip, and need to be very careful.

What is the worst time for this? Wet ice. Very cold snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice can be even more trouble because it can offer the least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it is about freezing, 32°F (0°C), and freezing rain begins to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews can get there. Whatever the condition — smooth ice, packed, blowing, or loose snow — drive with caution.

4-31

If You Are Caught in a Blizzard If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a serious situation. You should probably stay with your vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near help and you can hike through the snow. Here are some things to do to summon help and keep yourself and your passengers safe: (cid:127) Turn on the hazard warning flashers. (cid:127) Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police that

you have been stopped by the snow.

(cid:127) Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around you. If you do not have blankets or extra clothing, make body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags, floor mats — anything you can wrap around yourself or tuck under your clothing to keep warm.

StabiliTrak® improves your ability to accelerate when driving on a slippery road. But you can turn StabiliTrak® off if you ever need to. See StabiliTrak® System on page 4-6 and If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand, Mud, Ice, or Snow on page 4-34. Even with StabiliTrak®, slow down and adjust your driving to the road conditions. Under certain conditions, you might want to turn StabiliTrak® off, such as when driving through deep snow and loose gravel, to help maintain vehicle motion at lower speeds. The Antilock Brake System (ABS) improves your vehicle’s stability when you make a hard stop on a slippery road. Even though you have ABS, begin stopping sooner than you would on dry pavement. See Antilock Brake System (ABS) on page 4-4. (cid:127) Allow greater following distance on any slippery road. (cid:127) Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine until

you hit a spot that is covered with ice. On an otherwise clear road, ice patches can appear in shaded areas where the sun cannot reach, such as around clumps of trees, behind buildings, or under bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass can remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you are on it. Try not to brake while you are actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers.

4-32

You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.

{CAUTION:

Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you. You cannot see it or smell it, so you might not know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking the exhaust pipe. And check around again from time to time to be sure snow does not collect there. Open a window just a little on the side of the vehicle that is away from the wind. This will help keep CO out.

Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps the battery charged. You will need a well-charged battery to restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with the headlamps. Let the heater run for a while.

4-33

Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again and repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or so until help comes.

If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand, Mud, Ice, or Snow Slowly and cautiously spin the wheels to free your vehicle when stuck in sand, mud, ice, or snow. See Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out on page 4-34. If your vehicle has a traction system, it can often help to free a stuck vehicle. Refer to your vehicle’s traction system in the Index. If the stuck condition is too severe for the traction system to free the vehicle, turn the traction system off and use the rocking method.

{CAUTION:

If you let your vehicle’s tires spin at high speed, they can explode, and you or others could be injured. The vehicle can overheat, causing an engine compartment fire or other damage. Spin the wheels as little as possible and avoid going above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.

For information about using tire chains on your vehicle, see Tire Chains on page 5-92.

Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out First, turn the steering wheel left and right to clear the area around the front wheels. For four-wheel-drive vehicles, shift into Four-Wheel High. For vehicles with StabiliTrak®, turn the traction control part of the system off. See StabiliTrak® System on page 4-6. Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible.

4-34

To prevent transmission wear, wait until the wheels stop spinning before shifting gears. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear. By slowly spinning the wheels in the forward and reverse directions, you will cause a rocking motion that could free your vehicle. If that does not get your vehicle out after a few tries, it might need to be towed out. Or, you can use recovery hooks, if your vehicle has them. If your vehicle does need to be towed out, see Towing Your Vehicle on page 4-50.

Recovery Hooks

{CAUTION:

These hooks, when used, are under a lot of force. Always pull the vehicle straight out. Never pull on the hooks at a sideways angle. The hooks could break off and you or others could be injured from the chain or cable snapping back.

Notice: Never use recovery hooks to tow the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged and it would not be covered by warranty. For vehicles with recovery hooks at the front of the vehicle, you can use them if you are stuck off-road and need to be pulled to some place where you can continue driving.

4-35

Loading Your Vehicle It is very important to know how much weight your vehicle can carry. This weight is called the vehicle capacity weight and includes the weight of all occupants, cargo, and all nonfactory-installed options. Two labels on your vehicle show how much weight it was designed to carry, the Tire and Loading Information label and the Certification/Tire label.

{CAUTION:

Do not load the vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on the vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of the vehicle.

4-36

Tire and Loading Information Label

Label Example

A vehicle specific Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the center pillar (B-pillar). With the driver’s door open, you will find the label attached below the door lock post (striker). The tire and loading information label shows the number of occupant seating positions (A), and the maximum vehicle capacity weight (B) in kilograms and pounds.

The Tire and Loading Information label also shows the size of the original equipment tires (C) and the recommended cold tire inflation pressures (D). For more information on tires and inflation see Tires on page 5-68 and Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-76. There is also important loading information on the vehicle Certification/Tire label. It tells you the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) and the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for the front and rear axles. See “Certification/Tire Label” later in this section. Steps for Determining Correct Load Limit 1. Locate the statement “The combined weight of

occupants and cargo should never exceed XXX kg or XXX lbs” on your vehicle’s placard.

2. Determine the combined weight of the driver

and passengers that will be riding in your vehicle.

3. Subtract the combined weight of the driver and passengers from XXX kg or XXX lbs.

4. The resulting figure equals the available

amount of cargo and luggage load capacity. For example, if the “XXX” amount equals 1400 lbs and there will be five 150 lb passengers in your vehicle, the amount of available cargo and luggage load capacity is 650 lbs (1400 − 750 (5 x 150) = 650 lbs).

5. Determine the combined weight of luggage and cargo being loaded on the vehicle. That weight may not safely exceed the available cargo and luggage load capacity calculated in Step 4.

6. If your vehicle will be towing a trailer, the load

from your trailer will be transferred to your vehicle. Consult this manual to determine how this reduces the available cargo and luggage load capacity of your vehicle. See Towing a Trailer on page 4-55 for important information on towing a trailer, towing safety rules and trailering tips.

4-37

Example 1

Example 2

Item

Description Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 1 = Subtract Occupant Weight 150 lbs (68 kg) × 2 = Available Occupant and Cargo Weight =

Total

Item

1,000 lbs (453 kg)

300 lbs (136 kg)

700 lbs (317 kg)

Description Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 2 = Subtract Occupant Weight 150 lbs (68 kg) × 5 = Available Cargo Weight =

Total

1,000 lbs (453 kg)

750 lbs (136 kg)

250 lbs (113 kg)

4-38

The combined weight of the driver, passengers, and cargo should never exceed your vehicle’s capacity weight.

Certification/Tire Label

Example 3

Item

Description Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 3 = Subtract Occupant Weight 200 lbs (91 kg) × 5 = Available Cargo Weight =

Total

1,000 lbs (453 kg)

1000 lbs (453 kg)

0 lbs (0 kg)

Refer to your vehicle’s tire and loading information label for specific information about your vehicle’s capacity weight and seating positions.

A vehicle specific Certification/Tire label is found on the rear edge of the driver’s door. The label shows the size of your vehicle’s original tires and the inflation pressures needed to obtain the gross weight capacity of your vehicle. This is called Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR).

4-39

The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel, and cargo. The Certification/Tire label also tells you the maximum weights for the front and rear axles, called Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). To find out the actual loads on your front and rear axles, you need to go to a weigh station and weigh your vehicle. Your dealer can help you with this. Be sure to spread out your load equally on both sides of the centerline. Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle, or the GAWR for either the front or rear axle. The Certification/Tire label also contains important information about your Front Axle Reserve Capacity. See “What is front axle reserve capacity, and how do I calculate it?” under Adding a Snow Plow or Similar Equipment on page 4-43.

{CAUTION:

In the case of a sudden stop or collision, things carried in the bed of your truck could shift forward and come into the passenger area, injuring you and others. If you put things in the bed of your truck, you should make sure they are properly secured.

{CAUTION:

Do not load the vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on the vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of the vehicle.

4-40

Notice: Overloading your vehicle may cause damage. Repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not overload your vehicle. Using heavier suspension components to get added durability might not change your weight ratings. Ask your dealer to help you load your vehicle the right way. If you put things inside your vehicle — like suitcases, tools, packages, or anything else — they go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they will keep going.

{CAUTION:

Things you put inside your vehicle can strike and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or in a crash.

(cid:127) Put things in the cargo area of your

vehicle. Try to spread the weight evenly.

(cid:127) Never stack heavier things, like

suitcases, inside the vehicle so that some of them are above the tops of the seats.

(cid:127) Do not leave an unsecured child

restraint in your vehicle.

(cid:127) When you carry something inside the vehicle, secure it whenever you can.

(cid:127) Do not leave a seat folded down

unless you need to.

There is also important loading information for off-road driving in this manual. See “Loading Your Vehicle for Off-Road Driving“ under Off-Road Driving on page 4-12.

4-41

Add-On Equipment When you carry removable items, you may need to put a limit on how many people you carry inside your vehicle. Be sure to weigh your vehicle before you buy and install the new equipment. Notice: Overloading your vehicle may cause damage. Repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not overload your vehicle. Remember not to exceed the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) of the front or rear axle.

* Equipment Ladder Rack and Cargo Cross Toolbox and Cargo Side Boxes and Cargo

Maximum Weight

750 lbs (340 kg)

400 lbs (181 kg)

250 lbs per side (113 kg per side) * The combined weight for all rail-mounted equipment should not exceed 1,000 lbs (454 kg).

Two-Tiered Loading Depending on the model of your pick-up, you can create an upper load platform by positioning two or four 2 inches (5 cm) by 6 inches (15 cm) wooden planks across the width of the pickup box. The planks must be inserted in the pickup box depressions. The length of the planks must allow for at least a 3/4 inch (2 cm) bearing surface on each end of the plank. When using this upper load platform, be sure the load is securely tied down to prevent it from shifting. The load’s center of gravity should be positioned in a zone over the rear axle. The zone is located in the area between the front of each wheel well and the rear of each wheel well. The center of gravity height must not extend above the top of the pickup box flareboard. Any load that extends beyond the vehicle’s taillamp area must be properly marked according to local laws and regulations. Remember not to exceed the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) of the front or rear axle.

4-42

If your vehicle does not have the snow plow

Adding a Snow Plow or Similar Equipment Before installing a snow plow on your vehicle, here are some things you will need to know: Notice: prep package, adding a plow can damage your vehicle, and the repairs would not be covered by warranty. Unless your vehicle was built to carry a snow plow, do not add one to your vehicle. If your vehicle has the snow plow prep package, called RPO VYU, then the payload your vehicle can carry will be reduced when a snow plow is installed. Your vehicle can be damaged if either the front or rear axle ratings or the Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) are exceeded. Some vehicles are built with a special snow plow prep package, called RPO VYU. If your vehicle has this option, you can add a plow to it, provided certain weights, such as the weights on the vehicle’s axles and the Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW), are not exceeded.

The plow your vehicle can carry depends on many things, such as: (cid:127) The options your vehicle came with, and the weight

of those options.

(cid:127) The weight and number of passengers you intend

to carry.

(cid:127) The weight of items you have added to your

vehicle, like a tool box or truck cap.

(cid:127) The total weight of any additional cargo you intend

to carry.

Say, for example, you have a 700 lb (318 kg) snow plow. The total weight of all occupants and cargo inside the cab should not exceed 300 lb (135 kg). This means that you may only be able to carry one passenger. But, even this may be too much if you have got other equipment already adding to the weight of your vehicle.

4-43

Front axle reserve capacity is the difference between your front Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) and the front axle weight of your vehicle with full fuel and passengers. Basically, it is the amount of weight you can add to your front axle before reaching your front GAWR. The front axle reserve capacity for your vehicle can be found in the lower right corner of the Certification/Tire label, as shown.

United States

Canada

Here are some guidelines for safely carrying a snow plow on your vehicle: (cid:127) Make sure the weight on the front and rear axles

does not exceed the axle rating for each.

(cid:127) For the front axle, if more cargo or passengers

must be carried, appropriate counter ballast must be installed rear of the rear axle. Counter ballast must be properly secured so it will not move during driving.

(cid:127) Follow the snow plow manufacturer’s

recommendations regarding rear ballast. Rear ballast may be required to ensure a proper front and rear weight distribution ratio, even though the actual weight at the front axle may be less than the front axle rating.

(cid:127) The snow plow manufacturer or installer can assist

you in determining the amount of rear ballast required, to help make sure your snowplow/vehicle combination does not exceed the GVW rating, the front and rear axle ratings, and the front and rear weight distribution ratio.

(cid:127) The total vehicle must not exceed the GVW rating.

4-44

In order to calculate the amount of weight any front accessory, such as a snow plow, is adding to the front axle, use the following formula:

For example, adding a 700 lb (318 kg) snow plow actually adds more than 700 lbs (318 kg) to the front axle. Using the formula, if the snow plow is 4 ft (122 cm) in front of the front axle and the wheel base is 10 ft (305 cm), then: W = 700 lb (318 kg) A = 4 ft (122 cm) W.B. = 10 ft (305 cm) (W x (A + W.B.))/W.B. = (700 x (4 + 10))/10 = 980 lbs (445 kg) So, if your truck’s front axle reserve capacity is more than 980 lbs (445 kg), you could add the snow plow without exceeding the front GAWR.

(W x (A + W.B.)) /W.B.= Weight the accessory is adding to the front axle. Where: W = Weight of added accessory A = Distance that the accessory is in front of the front axle W.B. = Vehicle Wheelbase

4-45

You can add heavier equipment on the front of the vehicle if you compensate for it by carrying fewer passengers, less cargo, or by positioning cargo towards the rear. This has the effect of reducing the load on the front. However, the front GAWR, rear GAWR, and the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) must never be exceeded.

{CAUTION:

On some vehicles that have certain front mounted equipment, such as a snow plow, it may be possible to load the front axle to the front gross axle weight rating (GAWR) but not have enough weight on the rear axle to have proper braking performance. If your brakes can not work properly, you could have a crash.

CAUTION:

(Continued)

CAUTION:

(Continued)

To help your brakes work properly when a snow plow is installed, always follow the snow plow manufacturer or installer’s recommendation for rear ballast to ensure a proper front and rear weight distribution ratio, even though the actual front weight may be less than the front GAWR, and the total vehicle weight is less than the gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR). Maintaining a proper front and rear weight distribution ratio is necessary to provide proper braking performance.

Total vehicle reserve capacity is the difference between your GVWR and the weight of your truck with full fuel and passengers. It is the amount of weight you can add to your vehicle before reaching your GVWR.

4-46

Keep in mind that reserve capacity numbers are intended as a guide when selecting the amount of equipment or cargo your truck can carry. If you are unsure of your vehicle’s front, rear, or total weight, go to a weigh station and weigh your vehicle. Your dealer/retailer can also help you with this. The total vehicle reserve capacity for your vehicle can be found in the lower right corner of the Certification/Tire label as shown previously. See your dealer/retailer for additional advice and information about using a snow plow on your vehicle. Also, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-36. Emergency Roof Lamp Provisions Vehicles with the RPO VYU snow plow prep package also have an emergency roof lamp provision package, RPO TRW. Wiring for the emergency roof lamp is provided above the overhead console. See Auxiliary Roof Mounted Lamp on page 3-20 for switch location.

Truck-Camper Loading Information A vehicle specific Truck-Camper Loading information label is attached to the inside of your vehicle’s glove box. This label will tell you if your vehicle can carry a slide-in camper, how much of a load your vehicle can carry, and how to correctly spread out the load. Also, it will help you match the right slide-in camper to your vehicle. When you carry a slide-in camper, the total cargo load of your vehicle is the weight of the camper, plus the following: (cid:127) Everything else added to the camper after it

left the factory

(cid:127) Everything in the camper (cid:127) All the people inside The Cargo Weight Rating (CWR) is the maximum weight of the load your vehicle can carry. It does not include the weight of the people inside. But, you can figure about 150 lbs (68 kg) for each seat. The total cargo load must not be more than your vehicle’s CWR.

4-47

Refer to the Truck-Camper Loading Information label in the glove box for dimensions A and B as shown in the following illustration.

Here is an example of proper truck and camper match:

Use the rear edge of the load floor for measurement purposes. The recommended location for the cargo center of gravity is at point C for the CWR. It is the point where the mass of a body is concentrated and, if suspended at that point, would balance the front and rear.

A. Camper Center of Gravity B. Recommended Center of Gravity Location Zone When the truck is used to carry a slide-in camper, the total cargo load of the truck consists of the manufacturer’s camper weight figure, the weight of installed additional camper equipment not included in the manufacturer’s camper weight figure, the weight of camper cargo, and the weight of passengers in the camper. The total cargo load should not exceed the truck’s cargo weight rating and the camper’s center of gravity (A) should fall within the truck’s recommended center of gravity zone (B) when installed.

4-48

You must weigh any accessories or other equipment that you add to your vehicle. Then, subtract this extra weight from the CWR. This extra weight may shorten the center of gravity zone of your vehicle. Your dealer can help you with this. If your slide-in camper and its load weighs less than the CWR, the center of gravity zone for your vehicle may be larger. Your dealer can help you make a good vehicle-camper match and help you determine the CWR. After you have loaded your vehicle and camper, drive to a weigh station and weigh the front and rear wheels separately. This will tell you the loads on the axles. The loads on the front and rear axles should not be more than either of the Gross Axle Weight Ratings (GAWR). The total of the axle loads should not be more than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). Open the driver’s door and look at the Certification/Tire label to find out your vehicle’s GAWRs and GVWR. If your vehicle has gone over the weight ratings, move or take out some things until all the weight falls below the ratings.

Secure loose items to prevent weight shifts that could affect the balance of your vehicle. When the truck-camper is loaded, drive to a scale and weigh on the front and on the rear wheels separately to determine axle loads. Individual axle loads should not exceed either of the gross axle weight ratings (GAWR). The total axle loads should not exceed your vehicle’s gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR). These ratings are given on the vehicle certification label attached to the rear edge of the driver’s door. See “Certification/Tire Label” under Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-36. If weight ratings are exceeded, move or remove items to bring all weights below the ratings. When you install and load your slide-in camper, check the manufacturer’s instructions. If you want more information on curb weights, cargo weights, Cargo Weight Rating and the correct center of gravity zone for your vehicle, your dealer can help you. Just ask for a copy of “Consumer Information, Truck-Camper Loading.”

4-49

Pickup Conversion to Chassis Cab We are aware that some vehicle owners might consider having the pickup box removed and a commercial or recreational body installed. Owners should be aware that, as manufactured, there are differences between a chassis cab and a pickup with the box removed which could affect vehicle safety. The components necessary to adapt a pickup to permit its safe use with a specialized body should be installed by the body builder. Towing

Towing Your Vehicle To avoid vehicle damage, a platform or flatbed trailer should be used to transport this vehicle. Consult your dealer/retailer or a professional towing service if you need to have your disabled vehicle towed. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-7. If you want to tow your vehicle behind another vehicle for recreational purposes (such as behind a motorhome), see “Recreational Vehicle Towing” following.

4-50

Recreational Vehicle Towing Recreational vehicle towing means towing your vehicle behind another vehicle – such as behind a motorhome. The two most common types of recreational vehicle towing are known as dinghy towing, towing your vehicle will all four wheels on the ground, and dolly towing, towing your vehicle with two wheels on the ground and two wheels up on a device known as a “dolly”. With the proper preparation and equipment, many vehicles can be towed in these ways. See “Dinghy Towing” and “Dolly Towing” following. Here are some important things to consider before you do recreational vehicle towing: (cid:127) What’s the towing capacity of the towing vehicle? Be sure you read the tow vehicle manufacturer’s recommendations.

(cid:127) How far will you tow? Some vehicles have

restrictions on how far and how long they can tow.

(cid:127) Do you have the proper towing equipment? See your dealer or trailering professional for additional advice and equipment recommendations.

(cid:127) Is your vehicle ready to be towed? Just as you would prepare your vehicle for a long trip, you’ll want to make sure your vehicle is prepared to be towed. See Before Leaving on a Long Trip on page 4-29.

Four-Wheel-Drive Vehicles

If you tow your vehicle with all four wheels

Dinghy Towing Two-Wheel-Drive Vehicles Notice: on the ground, the drivetrain components could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not tow your vehicle with all four wheels on the ground. Two-wheel-drive vehicles should not be towed with all four wheels on the ground. Two-wheel-drive transmissions have no provisions for internal lubrication while being towed.

Use the following procedure to tow your vehicle: 1. Shift the transmission to PARK (P). 2. Turn the engine off, but leave the ignition on. 3. Firmly set the parking brake. 4. Securely attach the vehicle being towed to the

tow vehicle.

4-51

{CAUTION:

Shifting a four-wheel-drive vehicle’s transfer case into NEUTRAL can cause your vehicle to roll even if the transmission is in PARK (P). You or others could be injured. Make sure the parking brake is firmly set before you shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL.

5. Shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL. See

Four-Wheel Drive on page 2-36 for the proper procedure to select the neutral position for your vehicle.

6. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle

being towed is firmly attached to the towing vehicle.

7. Turn the ignition to LOCK/OFF.

If you tow a two-wheel-drive vehicle with

Dolly Towing Front Towing (Front Wheels Off the Ground) Two-Wheel-Drive Vehicles Notice: the rear wheels on the ground, the transmission could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Never tow your vehicle with the rear wheels on the ground. Two-wheel-drive vehicles should not be towed with the rear wheels on the ground. Two-wheel-drive transmissions have no provisions for internal lubrication while being towed. To dolly tow a two-wheel-drive vehicle, you must tow the vehicle with the rear wheels on the dolly. See “Rear Towing (Rear Wheels Off the Ground)” later in this section for more information.

4-52

Four-Wheel-Drive Vehicles

Use the following procedure to tow your vehicle: 1. Drive the vehicle up onto the tow dolly. 2. Shift the transmission to PARK (P). 3. Turn the engine off, but leave the ignition on. 4. Firmly set the parking brake. 5. Securely attach the vehicle being towed to the

tow dolly.

{CAUTION:

Shifting a four-wheel-drive vehicle’s transfer case into NEUTRAL can cause your vehicle to roll even if the transmission is in PARK (P). You or others could be injured. Make sure the parking brake is firmly set before you shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL.

6. Shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL. See

Four-Wheel Drive on page 2-36 for the proper procedure to select the neutral position for your vehicle.

7. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle

being towed is firmly attached to the towing vehicle.

8. Turn the ignition to LOCK/OFF.

4-53

Rear Towing (Rear Wheels Off the Ground) Two-Wheel-Drive Vehicles Use the following procedure to tow your vehicle from the rear: 1. Drive the vehicle onto the dolly. 2. Firmly set the parking brake. See Parking Brake on

page 2-50.

3. Put the transmission in PARK (P). 4. Follow the dolly manufacturer’s instructions to attach and secure the vehicle being towed to the dolly and then the loaded dolly to the tow vehicle. Make sure the wheels are straight before towing. Use an adequate clamping device to ensure that the front wheels are locked into the straight position.

5. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle

being towed is firmly attached to the tow vehicle.

6. Turn the ignition to LOCK/OFF.

Four-Wheel-Drive Vehicles Use the following procedure to tow your vehicle from the rear: 1. Drive the vehicle onto the dolly. 2. Firmly set the parking brake. See Parking Brake on

page 2-50.

3. Put the transmission in PARK (P). 4. Follow the dolly manufacturer’s instructions to attach

and secure the vehicle being towed to the dolly and then the loaded dolly to the tow vehicle. Use an adequate clamping device to ensure that the front wheels are locked into the straight position.

{CAUTION:

Shifting a four-wheel-drive vehicle’s transfer case into NEUTRAL can cause your vehicle to roll even if the transmission is in PARK (P). You or others could be injured. Make sure the parking brake is firmly set before you shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL.

4-54

5. Shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL. See

Four-Wheel Drive on page 2-36.

6. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle being towed is firmly attached to the tow vehicle.

7. Turn the ignition to LOCK/OFF.

Towing a Trailer If your vehicle has a diesel engine, see the DURAMAX® Diesel manual for more information. Do not tow a trailer during break-in. See New Vehicle Break-In on page 2-22 for more information.

{CAUTION:

If you do not use the correct equipment and drive properly, you can lose control when you pull a trailer. For example, if the trailer is too heavy, the brakes may not work well — or even at all. You and your passengers could be seriously injured. Pull a trailer only if you have followed all the steps in this section. Ask your dealer for advice and information about towing a trailer with your vehicle.

Notice: Pulling a trailer improperly can damage your vehicle and result in costly repairs not covered by your warranty. To pull a trailer correctly, follow the advice in this part, and see your dealer for important information about towing a trailer with your vehicle. To identify the trailering capacity of your vehicle, you should read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this section. Trailering is different than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in acceleration, braking, handling, durability and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly. That’s the reason for this part. In it are many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before you pull a trailer.

4-55

Three important considerations have to do with weight: (cid:127) The weight of the trailer (cid:127) The weight of the trailer tongue (cid:127) The weight on your vehicle’s tires Tow/Haul Mode

Press this button at the end of the shift lever to enable/disable the tow/haul mode.

Tow/Haul is a feature that assists when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load. See Tow/Haul Mode on page 2-34 for more information.

If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer If you do, here are some important points: (cid:127) There are many different laws, including speed limit restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure your rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you’ll be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police.

(cid:127) Consider using a sway control. See “Hitches” later

in this section.

(cid:127) Don’t tow a trailer at all during the first 500 miles (800 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine, axle or other parts could be damaged.

(cid:127) Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that you

tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the heavier loads.

(cid:127) You can tow in DRIVE (D). You may want to shift

the transmission to THIRD (3), or FOURTH (4) with the Allison or Hydra-matic 6-speed transmissions, or if necessary, a lower gear selection if the transmission shifts too often, such as under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions. See “Tow/Haul Mode” later in this section.

4-56

Tow/Haul is designed to be most effective when the vehicle and trailer combined weight is at least 75 percent of the vehicle’s Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR). See “Weight of the Trailer” later in the section. Tow/Haul is most useful under the following driving conditions: (cid:127) When pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load

through rolling terrain.

(cid:127) When pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load

in stop and go traffic.

(cid:127) When pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load

in busy parking lots where improved low speed control of the vehicle is desired.

Operating the vehicle in Tow/Haul when lightly loaded or with no trailer at all will not cause damage. However, there is no benefit to the selection of Tow/Haul when the vehicle is unloaded. Such a selection when unloaded may result in unpleasant engine and transmission driving characteristics and reduced fuel economy. Tow/Haul is recommended only when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load.

Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. It can also depend on any special equipment that you have on your vehicle, and the amount of tongue weight the vehicle can carry. See “Weight of the Trailer Tongue” later in this section for more information. Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming only the driver is in the tow vehicle and it has all the required trailering equipment. The weight of additional optional equipment, passengers and cargo in the tow vehicle must be subtracted from the maximum trailer weight.

4-57

Use one of the following charts to determine how much your vehicle can weigh, based upon your vehicle model and options.

C-1500 Regular Cab Standard Box (2WD)*

Axle Ratio

Maximum Trailer Weight

GCWR**

4.3L V6

4.8L V8

5.3L V8

3.23
3.73
3.23
3.73
3.42
3.73

9,500 lbs (4 309 kg) 10,000 lbs (4 536 kg) 10,000 lbs (4 536 kg) 12,000 lbs (5 443 kg) 12,000 lbs (5 443 kg) 13,000 lbs (5 897 kg) *Fifth-wheel or gooseneck kingpin weight 15 percent to 25 percent of trailer weight up to 1,500 lbs (680 kg) maximum. **The Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR) is the total allowable weight of the completely loaded vehicle and trailer including any passengers, cargo, equipment and conversions. The GCWR for your vehicle should not be exceeded.

4,800 lbs (2 177 kg) 5,300 lbs (2 404 kg) 5,200 lbs (2 359 kg) 7,200 lbs (3 266 kg) 7,200 lbs (3 266 kg) 8,200 lbs (3 719 kg)

4-58

C-1500 Extended Cab Standard Box (2WD)*

Axle Ratio

Maximum Trailer Weight

GCWR**

4.8L V8

4.3L V6

5.3L V8

3.23
3.73
3.23
3.73
3.42
3.73
3.73
3.73

9,500 lbs (4 309 kg) 10,000 lbs (4 536 kg) 10,000 lbs (4 536 kg) 12,000 lbs (5 443 kg) 12,000 lbs (5 443 kg) 13,000 lbs (5 897 kg) 14,000 lbs (6 350 kg) 6.0L V8
6.0L V8+ 15,500 lbs (7 031 kg) *Fifth-wheel or gooseneck kingpin weight 15 percent to 25 percent of trailer weight up to 1,500 lbs (680 kg) maximum. **The Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR) is the total allowable weight of the completely loaded vehicle and trailer including any passengers, cargo, equipment and conversions. The GCWR for your vehicle should not be exceeded. +NHT Enhanced Trailering Performance Package required.

4,300 lbs (1 950 kg) 4,800 lbs (2 177 kg) 4,700 lbs (2 132 kg) 6,700 lbs (3 039 kg) 6,700 lbs (3 039 kg) 7,700 lbs (3 493 kg) 8,800 lbs (3 992 kg) 10,200 lbs (4 627 kg)

4-59

C-1500 Extended Cab Short Box (2WD)*

Axle Ratio

Maximum Trailer Weight

GCWR**

3.23
3.73
3.23
3.73
3.42
3.73
3.73

3.23
3.73
3.42
3.73
3.73
3.73

4,400 lbs (1 196 kg) 4,900 lbs (2 223 kg) 4,800 lbs (2 177 kg) 6,800 lbs (3 084 kg) 6,800 lbs (3 084 kg) 7,800 lbs (3 538 kg) 8,800 lbs (3 992 kg)

9,500 lbs (4 309 kg) 10,000 lbs (4 536 kg) 10,000 lbs (4 536 kg) 12,000 lbs (5 448 kg) 12,000 lbs (5 448 kg) 13,000 lbs (5 902 kg) 14,000 lbs (6 350 kg)

6.0L V8
*This model is neither designed nor intended to tow fifth-wheel or gooseneck trailers. **The Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR) is the total allowable weight of the completely loaded vehicle and trailer including any passengers, cargo, equipment and conversions. The GCWR for your vehicle should not be exceeded.

C-1500 Crew Cab Short Box (2WD)*

Axle Ratio

Maximum Trailer Weight

GCWR**

4,600 lbs (2 086 kg) 6,600 lbs (2 994 kg) 6,600 lbs (2 994 kg) 7,600 lbs (3 447 kg) 8,700 lbs (3 946 kg) 10,200 lbs (4 627 kg)

10,000 lbs (4 536 kg) 12,000 lbs (5 443 kg) 12,000 lbs (5 443 kg) 13,000 lbs (5 897 kg) 14,000 lbs (6 350 kg) 15,500 lbs (7 031 kg)

6.0L V8
6.0L V8+ *This model is neither designed nor intended to tow fifth-wheel or gooseneck trailers. **The Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR) is the total allowable weight of the completely loaded vehicle and trailer including any passengers, cargo, equipment and conversions. The GCWR for your vehicle should not be exceeded. +NHT Enhanced Trailering Performance Package required.

4.3L V6

4.8L V8

5.3L V8

4.8L V8

5.3L V8

4-60

C-1500 Regular Cab Long Box (2WD)*

Axle Ratio

Maximum Trailer Weight

GCWR**

4.8L V8

4.3L V6

5.3L V8

3.23
3.73
3.23
3.73
3.42
3.73

9,500 lbs (4 309 kg) 10,000 lbs (4 536 kg) 10,000 lbs (4 536 kg) 12,000 lbs (5 448 kg) 12,000 lbs (5 443 kg) 13,000 lbs (5 896 kg) *Fifth-wheel or gooseneck kingpin weight 15 percent to 25 percent of trailer weight up to 1,500 lbs (680 kg) maximum. **The Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR) is the total allowable weight of the completely loaded vehicle and trailer including any passengers, cargo, equipment and conversions. The GCWR for your vehicle should not be exceeded.

4,700 lbs (2 132 kg) 5,200 lbs (2 359 kg) 5,100 lbs (2 313 kg) 7,100 lbs (3 221 kg) 7,000 lbs (3 175 kg) 8,000 lbs (3 629 kg)

C-1500 Extended Cab Long Box (2WD)*

Axle Ratio

Maximum Trailer Weight

GCWR**

5.3L V8

3.42
3.73

12,000 lbs (5 443 kg) 13,000 lbs (5 897 kg) *Fifth-wheel or gooseneck kingpin weight 15 percent to 25 percent of trailer weight up to 1,500 lbs (680 kg) maximum. **The Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR) is the total allowable weight of the completely loaded vehicle and trailer including any passengers, cargo, equipment and conversions. The GCWR for your vehicle should not be exceeded.

6,500 lbs (2 948 kg) 7,500 lbs (3 402 kg)

4-61

K-1500 Regular Cab Standard Box (4WD)* 4.3L V6

Axle Ratio

Maximum Trailer Weight

GCWR**

5.3L V8

4.8L V8

3.73
3.42
4.10
3.73
4.10

10,000 lbs (4 536 kg) 11,000 lbs (4 989 kg) 13,000 lbs (5 902 kg) 13,000 lbs (5 896 kg) 14,000 lbs (6 350 kg) *Fifth-wheel or gooseneck kingpin weight 15 percent to 25 percent of trailer weight up to 1,500 lbs (680 kg) maximum. *Fifth-wheel or gooseneck trailer rating limited to 7,300 lbs (3 311 kg). **The Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR) is the total allowable weight of the completely loaded vehicle and trailer including any passengers, cargo, equipment and conversions. The GCWR for your vehicle should not be exceeded.

5,100 lbs (2 313 kg) 5,900 lbs (2 676 kg) 7,900 lbs (3 583 kg) 7,900 lbs (3 583 kg) 8,900 lbs (4 037 kg)

K-1500 Extended Cab Standard Box (4WD)*

Axle Ratio

Maximum Trailer Weight

GCWR**

5.3L V8

4.8L V8

3.42
4.10
3.73
4.10
3.73
4.10

11,000 lbs (4 989 kg) 13,000 lbs (5 897 kg) 13,000 lbs (5 897 kg) 14,000 lbs (6 350 kg) 6.0L V8
14,000 lbs (6 350 kg) 6.0L V8+ 16,000 lbs (7 257 kg) *Fifth-wheel or gooseneck kingpin weight 15 percent to 25 percent of trailer weight up to 1,500 lbs (680 kg) maximum. **The Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR) is the total allowable weight of the completely loaded vehicle and trailer including any passengers, cargo, equipment and conversions. The GCWR for your vehicle should not be exceeded. +NHT Enhanced Trailering Performance Package required.

5,500 lbs (2 495 kg) 7,500 lbs (3 402 kg) 7,500 lbs (3 402 kg) 8,500 lbs (3 855 kg) 8,500 lbs (3 855 kg) 10,500 lbs (4 763 kg)

4-62

K-1500 Extended Cab Short Box (4WD)*

4.8L V8

5.3L V8

Axle Ratio

Maximum Trailer Weight

GCWR**

5,500 lbs (2 495 kg) 7,500 lbs (3 402 kg) 7,500 lbs (3 402 kg) 8,500 lbs (3 855 kg) 8,500 lbs (3 856 kg)

11,000 lbs (4 989 kg) 13,000 lbs (5 897 kg) 13,000 lbs (5 897 kg) 14,000 lbs (6 350 kg) 14,000 lbs (6 350 kg)

6.0L V8
*This model is neither designed nor intended to tow fifth-wheel or gooseneck trailers. **The Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR) is the total allowable weight of the completely loaded vehicle and trailer including any passengers, cargo, equipment and conversions. The GCWR for your vehicle should not be exceeded.

K-1500 Crew Cab Short Box (4WD)*

Axle Ratio

Maximum Trailer Weight

GCWR**

4.8L V8

5.3L V8

5,400 lbs (2 449 kg) 7,400 lbs (3 356 kg) 7,500 lbs (3 402 kg) 8,500 lbs (3 855 kg) 8,400 lbs (3 810 kg) 10,500 lbs (4 763 kg)

11,000 lbs (4 989 kg) 13,000 lbs (5 897 kg) 13,000 lbs (5 897 kg) 14,000 lbs (6 350 kg) 14,000 lbs (6 350 kg) 16,000 lbs (7 257 kg)

6.0L V8
6.0L V8+ *This model is neither designed nor intended to tow fifth-wheel or gooseneck trailers. **The Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR) is the total allowable weight of the completely loaded vehicle and trailer including any passengers, cargo, equipment and conversions. The GCWR for your vehicle should not be exceeded. +NHT Enhanced Trailering Performance Package required.

3.42
4.10
3.73
4.10
3.73

3.42
4.10
3.73
4.10
3.73
4.10

4-63

K-1500 Regular Cab Long Box (4WD)* 4.3L V6

Axle Ratio

Maximum Trailer Weight

GCWR**

5.3L V8

4.8L V8

3.73
3.42
4.10
3.73
4.10

10,000 lbs (4 536 kg) 11,000 lbs (4 989 kg) 13,000 lbs (5 896 kg) 13,000 lbs (5 896 kg) 14,000 lbs (6 350 kg) *Fifth-wheel or gooseneck kingpin weight 15 percent to 25 percent of trailer weight up to 1,500 lbs (680 kg) maximum. **The Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR) is the total allowable weight of the completely loaded vehicle and trailer including any passengers, cargo, equipment and conversions. The GCWR for your vehicle should not be exceeded.

4,900 lbs (2 223 kg) 5,900 lbs (2 676 kg) 7,900 lbs (3 583 kg) 7,900 lbs (3 583 kg) 8,900 lbs (4 037 kg)

K-1500 Extended Cab Long Box (4WD)*

Axle Ratio

Maximum Trailer Weight

GCWR**

5.3L V8

3.73
4.10

13,000 lbs (5 896 kg) 14,000 lbs (6 350 kg) *Fifth-wheel or gooseneck kingpin weight 15 percent to 25 percent of trailer weight up to 1,500 lbs (680 kg) maximum. **The Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR) is the total allowable weight of the completely loaded vehicle and trailer including any passengers, cargo, equipment and conversions. The GCWR for your vehicle should not be exceeded.

7,300 lbs (3 311 kg) 8,300 lbs (3 765 kg)

4-64

C-2500 Extended Cab Standard Box HD (2WD)*

6.0L V8

Axle Ratio

3.73
4.10

Maximum Trailer Weight

GCWR**

10,200 lbs (4 627 kg) 12,700 lbs (5 761 kg)

16,000 lbs (7 257 kg) 18,500 lbs (8 391 kg)

*Fifth-wheel or gooseneck kingpin tongue weight should be 15 percent to 25 percent of trailer weight up to 3,000
lbs (1 361 kg) maximum. *Trailer rating limited to 13,000 lbs (5 897 kg) with weight distributing hitch. **The Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR) is the total allowable weight of the completely loaded vehicle and trailer including any passengers, cargo, equipment and conversions. The GCWR for your vehicle should not be exceeded.

C-2500 Crew Cab Standard Box HD (2WD)*

Axle Ratio

Maximum Trailer Weight

GCWR**

6.0L V8

3.73
4.10

16,000 lbs (7 257 kg) 18,500 lbs (8 391 kg) *Fifth-wheel or gooseneck kingpin weight should be 15 percent to 25 percent of trailer weight up to 3,000 lbs (1 361 kg) maximum. *Trailer rating limited to 13,000 lbs (5 897 kg) with weight distributing hitch. **The Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR) is the total allowable weight of the completely loaded vehicle and trailer including any passengers, cargo, equipment and conversions. The GCWR for your vehicle should not be exceeded.

10,000 lbs (4 536 kg) 12,500 lbs (5 670 kg)

4-65

C-2500 Regular Cab Long Box HD (2WD)*

6.0L V8

Axle Ratio

3.73
4.10

Maximum Trailer Weight

GCWR**

10,400 lbs (4 717 kg) 12,900 lbs (5 851 kg)

16,000 lbs (7 257 kg) 18,500 lbs (8 391 kg)

*Fifth-wheel or gooseneck kingpin tongue weight should be 15 percent to 25 percent of trailer weight up to 3,000
lbs (1 361 kg) maximum. *Trailer ratings above 13,000 lbs (5 897 kg) require a fifth-wheel or gooseneck hitch. **The Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR) is the total allowable weight of the completely loaded vehicle and trailer including any passengers, cargo, equipment and conversions. The GCWR for your vehicle should not be exceeded.

C-2500 Extended Cab Long Box HD (2WD)*

Axle Ratio

Maximum Trailer Weight

GCWR**

6.0L V8

3.73
4.10

16,000 lbs (7 257 kg) 18,500 lbs (8 391 kg) *Fifth-wheel or gooseneck kingpin weight should be 15 percent to 25 percent of trailer weight up to 3,000 lbs (1 361 kg) maximum. *Trailer rating limited to 13,000 lbs (5 897 kg) with weight distributing hitch. **The Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR) is the total allowable weight of the completely loaded vehicle and trailer including any passengers, cargo, equipment and conversions. The GCWR for your vehicle should not be exceeded.

10,000 lbs (4 536 kg) 12,500 lbs (5 670 kg)

4-66

C-2500 Crew Cab Long Box HD (2WD)*

Axle Ratio

Maximum Trailer Weight

GCWR**

6.0L V8

3.73
4.10

16,000 lbs (7 257 kg) 18,500 lbs (8 391 kg) *Fifth-wheel or gooseneck kingpin weight should be 15 percent to 25 percent of trailer weight up to 3,000 lbs (1 361 kg) maximum. *Trailer rating limited to 13,000 lbs (5 897 kg) with weight distributing hitch. **The Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR) is the total allowable weight of the completely loaded vehicle and trailer including any passengers, cargo, equipment and conversions. The GCWR for your vehicle should not be exceeded.

9,900 lbs (4 490 kg) 12,400 lbs (5 624 kg)

K-2500 Extended Cab Standard Box HD (4WD)*

Axle Ratio

Maximum Trailer Weight

GCWR**

6.0L V8

3.73
4.10

16,000 lbs (7 257 kg) 18,500 lbs (8 391 kg) *Fifth-wheel or gooseneck kingpin weight should be 15 percent to 25 percent of trailer weight up to 3,000 lbs (1 361 kg) maximum. *Trailer rating limited to 13,000 lbs (5 897 kg) with weight distributing hitch. **The Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR) is the total allowable weight of the completely loaded vehicle and trailer including any passengers, cargo, equipment and conversions. The GCWR for your vehicle should not be exceeded.

9,900 lbs (4 490 kg) 12,400 lbs (5 624 kg)

4-67

K-2500 Crew Cab Standard Box HD (4WD)*

Axle Ratio

Maximum Trailer Weight

GCWR**

6.0L V8

3.73
4.10

16,000 lbs (7 257 kg) 18,500 lbs (8 391 kg) *Fifth-wheel or gooseneck kingpin weight should be 15 percent to 25 percent of trailer weight up to 3,000 lbs (1 361 kg) maximum. *Trailer rating limited to 13,000 lbs (5 897 kg) with weight distributing hitch. **The Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR) is the total allowable weight of the completely loaded vehicle and trailer including any passengers, cargo, equipment and conversions. The GCWR for your vehicle should not be exceeded.

9,800 lbs (4 445 kg) 12,300 lbs (5 579 kg)

K-2500 Regular Cab Long Box HD (4WD)*

Axle Ratio

Maximum Trailer Weight

GCWR**

6.0L V8

3.73
4.10

16,000 lbs (7 257 kg) 18,500 lbs (8 391 kg) *Fifth-wheel or gooseneck kingpin weight should be 15 percent to 25 percent of trailer weight up to 3,000 lbs (1 361 kg) maximum. *Trailer rating limited to 13,000 lbs (5 897 kg) with weight distributing hitch. **The Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR) is the total allowable weight of the completely loaded vehicle and trailer including any passengers, cargo, equipment and conversions. The GCWR for your vehicle should not be exceeded.

10,200 lbs (4 627 kg) 12,700 lbs (5 761 kg)

4-68

K-2500 Extended Cab Long Box HD (4WD)*

Axle Ratio

Maximum Trailer Weight

GCWR**

6.0L V8

3.73
4.10

16,000 lbs (7 257 kg) 18,500 lbs (8 391 kg) *Fifth-wheel or gooseneck kingpin weight should be 15 percent to 25 percent of trailer weight up to 3,000 lbs (1 361 kg) maximum. *Trailer rating limited to 13,000 lbs (5 897 kg) with weight distributing hitch. **The Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR) is the total allowable weight of the completely loaded vehicle and trailer including any passengers, cargo, equipment and conversions. The GCWR for your vehicle should not be exceeded.

9,700 lbs (4 400 kg) 12,200 lbs (5 534 kg)