2008 Chevrolet Silverado Owners Manual

Download PDF Manual
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter (Gasoline Engines) .....5-20 Automatic Transmission Fluid (6-Speed Transmission) ..............................5-22 Automatic Transmission Fluid (4-Speed Transmission) ..............................5-26 Engine Coolant .............................................5-29 Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap ..................5-32 Engine Overheating .......................................5-32 Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode (V8 Engines Only) ..............5-34 Cooling System ............................................5-35 Engine Fan Noise .........................................5-40 Power Steering Fluid .....................................5-41 Windshield Washer Fluid ................................5-42 Brakes ........................................................5-43 Battery ........................................................5-46 Jump Starting ...............................................5-47 Rear Axle .......................................................5-52 Four-Wheel Drive ............................................5-54 Front Axle ......................................................5-56 Noise Control System .....................................5-57 Tampering with Noise Control System Prohibited .................................................5-57 Headlamp Aiming ...........................................5-58 5-1 Section 5 Service and Appearance Care Bulb Replacement ..........................................5-61 Halogen Bulbs ..............................................5-61 Headlamps ..................................................5-62 Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) and Cargo Lamp .............................................5-63 Pickup Box Identiﬁcation and Fender Marker Lamps ................................5-64 Taillamps, Turn Signal, Stoplamps and Back-up Lamps .........................................5-64 License Plate Lamp ......................................5-66 Replacement Bulbs .......................................5-66 Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement ..............5-67 Tires ..............................................................5-68 Tire Sidewall Labeling ...................................5-69 Tire Terminology and Deﬁnitions .....................5-73 Inﬂation - Tire Pressure .................................5-76 Dual Tire Operation .......................................5-77 Tire Pressure Monitor System .........................5-78 Tire Pressure Monitor Operation .....................5-79 Tire Inspection and Rotation ...........................5-83 When It Is Time for New Tires .......................5-86 Buying New Tires .........................................5-86 Different Size Tires and Wheels ......................5-88 Uniform Tire Quality Grading ..........................5-89 Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance ..................5-90 Wheel Replacement ......................................5-90 Tire Chains ..................................................5-92 If a Tire Goes Flat ........................................5-93 Changing a Flat Tire .....................................5-94 Removing the Spare Tire and Tools ................5-95 Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire ..............................................5-100 Secondary Latch System ..............................5-106 Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools ...........5-110 Spare Tire .................................................5-113 Appearance Care ..........................................5-114 Interior Cleaning .........................................5-114 Fabric/Carpet ..............................................5-115 Leather ......................................................5-116 Instrument Panel, Vinyl, and Other Plastic Surfaces .................................................5-117 Care of Safety Belts ....................................5-117 Weatherstrips .............................................5-117 Washing Your Vehicle ..................................5-118 Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses ....................5-118 Finish Care ................................................5-119 Windshield and Wiper Blades .......................5-120 Aluminum or Chrome-Plated Wheels and Trim ................................................5-120 5-2 Section 5 Service and Appearance Care Tires .........................................................5-121 Sheet Metal Damage ...................................5-121 Finish Damage ...........................................5-122 Underbody Maintenance ...............................5-122 Chemical Paint Spotting ...............................5-122 Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials ................5-123 Vehicle Identiﬁcation .....................................5-124 Vehicle Identiﬁcation Number (VIN) ................5-124 Service Parts Identiﬁcation Label ...................5-124 Electrical System ..........................................5-125 Add-On Electrical Equipment .........................5-125 Windshield Wiper Fuses ...............................5-125 Power Windows and Other Power Options ......5-125 Fuses and Circuit Breakers ..........................5-125 Instrument Panel Fuse Block ........................5-126 Center Instrument Panel Fuse Block ..............5-128 Underhood Fuse Block ................................5-129 Capacities and Speciﬁcations ........................5-133 5-3 Service For service and parts needs, visit your dealer/retailer. You will receive genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks: 5-4 Accessories and Modiﬁcations When non-dealer/non-retailer accessories are added to your vehicle they can affect your vehicle’s performance and safety, including such things as, airbags, braking, stability, ride and handling, emissions systems, aerodynamics, durability, and electronic systems like antilock brakes, traction control and stability control. Some of these accessories could even cause malfunction or damage not covered by warranty. GM Accessories are designed to complement and function with other systems on your vehicle. Your GM dealer/retailer can accessorize your vehicle using genuine GM Accessories. When you go to your GM dealer/retailer and ask for GM Accessories, you will know that GM-trained and supported service technicians will perform the work using genuine GM Accessories. Also, see Adding Equipment to Your Airbag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-86. California Proposition 65 Warning Most motor vehicles, including this one, contain and/or emit chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. Engine exhaust, many parts and systems (including some inside the vehicle), many ﬂuids, and some component wear by-products contain and/or emit these chemicals. California Perchlorate Materials Requirements Certain types of automotive applications, such as airbag initiators, seat belt pretensioners, and lithium batteries contained in remote keyless entry transmitters, may contain perchlorate materials. Special handling may be necessary. For additional information, see www.dtsc.ca.gov/hazardouswaste/perchlorate. Doing Your Own Service Work {CAUTION: You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it. (cid:127) Be sure you have sufficient knowledge, experience, the proper replacement parts, and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task. (cid:127) Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts, and other fasteners. English and metric fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt. If you want to do some of your own service work, you should use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 7-15. Your vehicle has an airbag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see Servicing Your Airbag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-86. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See Maintenance Record on page 6-18. Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airﬂow around it. This can cause wind noise and can affect fuel economy and windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer/retailer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle. 5-5 Gasoline Octane Use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 87 or higher. If the octane rating is less than 87, you might notice an audible knocking noise when you drive, commonly referred to as spark knock. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. If you are using gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, the engine needs service. Gasoline Speciﬁcations At a minimum, gasoline should meet ASTM speciﬁcation D 4814 in the United States or CAN/CGSB-3.5 or 3.511 in Canada. Some gasolines contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT). We recommend against the use of gasolines containing MMT. See Additives on page 5-7 for additional information. Fuel If your vehicle has a diesel engine, see “Diesel Fuel Requirements and Fuel System” in the DURAMAX® Diesel manual. For vehicles with gasoline engines, please read this. Gasoline Use of the recommended fuel is an important part of the proper maintenance of your vehicle. To help keep the engine clean and maintain optimum vehicle performance, we recommend the use of gasoline advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. The 8th digit of the Vehicle Identiﬁcation Number (VIN) shows the code letter or number that identiﬁes your vehicle’s engine. The VIN is at the top left of the instrument panel. See Vehicle Identiﬁcation Number (VIN) on page 5-124. If your vehicle has the 5.3L V8 engine (VIN Code 0) or the 5.3L V8 engine (VIN Code 3), you can use either regular unleaded gasoline or ethanol fuel containing up to 85% ethanol (E85); also see Fuel E85 (85% Ethanol) on page 5-8. In all other gasoline engines, use only regular unleaded gasoline. 5-6 California Fuel If your vehicle is certiﬁed to meet California Emissions Standards, it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California speciﬁcations. See the underhood emission control label. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal speciﬁcations, but emission control system performance might be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp could turn on and your vehicle might fail a smog-check test. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-49. If this occurs, return to your authorized dealer/retailer for diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs might not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Additives To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing the emission control system to work properly. In most cases, you should not have to add anything to the fuel. However, some gasolines contain only the minimum amount of additive required to meet U.S. Environmental Protection Agency regulations. To help keep fuel injectors and intake valves clean, or if your vehicle experiences problems due to dirty injectors or valves, look for gasoline that is advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. Also, your dealer/retailer has additives that will help correct and prevent most deposit-related problems. Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines might be available in your area. We recommend that you use these gasolines, if they comply with the speciﬁcations described earlier. However, E85 (85% ethanol) and other fuels containing more than 10% ethanol must not be used in vehicles that were not designed for those fuels. Notice: Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in the fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under your warranty. Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions can contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT. We recommend against the use of such gasolines. Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system could be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp might turn on. If this occurs, return to your dealer/retailer for service. 5-7 Fuel E85 (85% Ethanol) The 8th digit of the Vehicle Identiﬁcation Number (VIN) shows the code letter or number that identiﬁes your vehicle’s engine. The VIN is at the top left of the instrument panel. See Vehicle Identiﬁcation Number (VIN) on page 5-124. If your vehicle has the 5.3L V8 engine (VIN Code 0) or the 5.3L V8 engine (VIN Code 3), you can use either regular unleaded gasoline or ethanol fuel containing up to 85% ethanol (E85); also see Fuel on page 5-6. In all other engines, use only the unleaded gasoline described under Gasoline Octane on page 5-6. Only vehicles that have the 5.3L V8 engine (VIN Code 0) or the 5.3L V8 engine (VIN Code 3) can use 85% ethanol fuel (E85). We encourage the use of E85 in vehicles that are designed to use it. The ethanol in E85 is a “renewable” fuel, meaning it is made from renewable sources such as corn and other crops. Many service stations will not have an 85% ethanol fuel (E85) pump available. The U. S. Department of Energy has an alternative fuels website (www.eere.energy.gov/afdc/infrastructure/locator.html) that can help you ﬁnd E85 fuel. Those stations that do have E85 should have a label indicating ethanol content. Do not use the fuel if the ethanol content is greater than 85%. At a minimum, E85 should meet ASTM Speciﬁcation D 5798. By deﬁnition, this means that fuel labeled E85 will have an ethanol content between 70% and 85%. Filling the fuel tank with fuel mixtures that do not meet ASTM speciﬁcations can affect driveability and could cause the malfunction indicator lamp to come on. To ensure quick starts in the wintertime, the E85 fuel must be formulated properly for your climate according to ASTM speciﬁcation D 5798. If you have trouble starting on E85, it could be because the E85 fuel is not properly formulated for your climate. If this happens, switching to gasoline or adding gasoline to the fuel tank can improve starting. For good starting and heater efficiency below 32°F (0°C), the fuel mix in the fuel tank should contain no more than 70% ethanol. It is best not to alternate repeatedly between gasoline and E85. 5-8 Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel might be hard to ﬁnd. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel would not be covered by your warranty. To check the fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you will be driving. If you do switch fuels, it is recommended that you add as much fuel as possible — do not add less than three gallons (11 L) when refueling. You should drive the vehicle immediately after refueling for at least seven miles (11 km) to allow the vehicle to adapt to the change in ethanol concentration. E85 has less energy per gallon than gasoline, so you will need to reﬁll the fuel tank more often when using E85 than when you are using gasoline. See Filling the Tank on page 5-10. Notice: Some additives are not compatible with E85 fuel and can harm your vehicle’s fuel system. Do not add anything to E85. Damage caused by additives would not be covered by your new vehicle warranty. Notice: Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in the fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under your warranty. 5-9 Filling the Tank If your vehicle has the DURAMAX Diesel engine, see the DURAMAX Diesel manual for more information. {CAUTION: Fuel vapor burns violently and a fuel ﬁre can cause bad injuries. To help avoid injuries to you and others, read and follow all the instructions on the pump island. Turn off your engine when you are refueling. Do not smoke if you are near fuel or refueling your vehicle. Do not use cellular phones. Keep sparks, ﬂames, and smoking materials away from fuel. Do not leave the fuel pump unattended when refueling your vehicle. This is against the law in some places. Do not re-enter the vehicle while pumping fuel. Keep children away from the fuel pump; never let children pump fuel. 5-10 The tethered fuel cap is located behind a hinged fuel door on the driver’s side of the vehicle. If the vehicle has E85 fuel capability, a yellow cap with the words “E85 / Gasoline” can be seen. To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly counterclockwise. {CAUTION: Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. If you spill fuel and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any hiss noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way. If your vehicle is a dual fuel tank chassis cab model, and it runs out of fuel, refuel the front fuel tank ﬁrst to ensure a quick restart. Be careful not to spill fuel. Do not top off or overﬁll the tank and wait a few seconds after you have ﬁnished pumping before removing the nozzle. Clean fuel from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-118. When replacing the fuel cap, turn it clockwise until it clicks. It will require more effort to turn the fuel cap on the last turn as you tighten it. Make sure the cap is fully installed. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-49. The TIGHTEN GAS CAP message will be displayed on the Driver Information Center (DIC) if the fuel cap is not properly installed. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-66 for more information. {CAUTION: If a ﬁre starts while you are refueling, do not remove the nozzle. Shut off the ﬂow of fuel by shutting off the pump or by notifying the station attendant. Leave the area immediately. If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get Notice: the right type. Your dealer/retailer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not ﬁt properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage your fuel tank and emissions system. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-49. 5-11 Filling a Portable Fuel Container {CAUTION: Never ﬁll a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the fuel vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others: (cid:127) Dispense fuel only into approved containers. (cid:127) Do not ﬁll a container while it is inside a vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed, or on any surface other than the ground. (cid:127) Bring the ﬁll nozzle in contact with the inside of the ﬁll opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the ﬁlling is complete. (cid:127) Do not smoke while pumping fuel. (cid:127) Do not use a cellular phone while pumping fuel. Checking Things Under the Hood {CAUTION: An electric engine cooling fan can start even when the engine is not running. To avoid injury, always keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any engine cooling fan. {CAUTION: Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a ﬁre. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake ﬂuid, windshield washer and other ﬂuids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine. 5-12 Hood Release To open the hood do the following: 1. Pull the handle with this symbol on it. It is located inside the vehicle to the left of the brake pedal. 2. Then go to the front of the vehicle and locate the secondary hood release. This is located under the hood, near the center of the grille. 3. Push the secondary hood release to the right. 4. Lift the hood. Before closing the hood, be sure all the ﬁller caps are on properly. Then bring the hood from full open to within 6 inches (152 mm) from the closed position, pause, then push the front center of the hood with a swift, ﬁrm motion to fully close the hood. 5-13 Engine Compartment Overview If your vehicle has the DURAMAX® Diesel engine, see the DURAMAX® Diesel manual for more information. When you open the hood on the 5.3L engine (4.3L, 4.8L and 6.0L similar), this is what you will see: 5-14 A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air Cleaner/Filter (Gasoline Engines) on page 5-20. B. Air Filter Restriction Indicator (If Equipped). See Engine Air Cleaner/Filter (Gasoline Engines) on page 5-20. C. Coolant Surge Tank and Pressure Cap. See Cooling System on page 5-35 and Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap on page 5-32. D. Positive (+) Terminal. See Jump Starting on page 5-47. E. Battery. See Battery on page 5-46. F. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil” under Engine Oil (Gasoline Engine) on page 5-15. G. Automatic Transmission Dipstick. See “Checking the Fluid Level” under Automatic Transmission Fluid (6-Speed Transmission) on page 5-22 or Automatic Transmission Fluid (4-Speed Transmission) on page 5-26. H. Remote Negative (−) Terminal (Out of View). See Jump Starting on page 5-47. I. Engine Oil Dipstick (Out of View). See “Checking Engine Oil” under Engine Oil (Gasoline Engine) on page 5-15. J. Engine Cooling Fan. See Cooling System on page 5-35. K. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See Power Steering Fluid on page 5-41. L. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid” under Brakes on page 5-43. M. Underhood Fuse Block. See Underhood Fuse Block on page 5-129. N. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-42. Engine Oil (Gasoline Engine) If your vehicle has a diesel engine, see “Engine Oil” in the DURAMAX® Diesel manual. Checking Engine Oil It is a good idea to check the engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground. The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for the location of the engine oil dipstick. 1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you do not do this, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level. 2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level. 5-15 When to Add Engine Oil See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for the location of the engine oil ﬁll cap. If the oil is below the cross-hatched area at the tip of the dipstick, add at least one quart/liter of the recommended oil. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Speciﬁcations on page 5-133. Notice: Do not add too much oil. If the engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, the engine could be damaged. Be sure to add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you are through. 5-16 What Kind of Engine Oil to Use (cid:127) SAE 5W-30 As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50. (cid:127) Oils meeting these requirements should have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certiﬁed by the American Petroleum Institute (API). Look for this information on the oil container, and use only those oils that are identiﬁed as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and have the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. Notice: Use only engine oil identiﬁed as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and showing the American Petroleum Institute Certiﬁed For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty. 5-17 Look for three things: (cid:127) GM6094M Your vehicle’s engine requires oil meeting GM Standard GM6094M. Look for and use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM6094M. When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it will indicate that an oil change is necessary. A CHANGE ENGINE OIL SOON message will come on. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-66. Change the oil as soon as possible within the next 600 miles (1 000 km). It is possible that, if you are driving under the best conditions, the oil life system might not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, the engine oil and ﬁlter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. Your dealer/retailer has trained service people who will perform this work using genuine parts and reset the system. It is also important to check the oil regularly and keep it at the proper level. If the system is ever reset accidentally, you must change the oil at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since your last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed. If you are in an area of extreme cold, where the temperature falls below −20°F (−29°C), it is recommended that you use either an SAE 5W-30 synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both provide easier cold starting and better protection for the engine at extremely low temperatures. Engine Oil Additives Do not add anything to the oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol that meet GM Standard GM6094M are all you need for good performance and engine protection. Engine Oil Life System When to Change Engine Oil Your vehicle has a computer system that lets you know when to change the engine oil and ﬁlter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change will be indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, you must reset the system every time the oil is changed. 5-18 How to Reset the Engine Oil Life System The Engine Oil Life System calculates when to change the engine oil and ﬁlter based on vehicle use. Whenever the oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where you change the oil prior to a CHANGE ENGINE OIL SOON message coming on, reset the system. Always reset the engine oil life to 100% after every oil change. It will not reset itself. To reset the Engine Oil Life System: 1. Display the OIL LIFE REMAINING on the DIC. If your vehicle does not have DIC buttons, the vehicle must be in PARK (P) to access this display. See DIC Operation and Displays (With DIC Buttons) on page 3-57 or DIC Operation and Displays (Without DIC Buttons) on page 3-63. 2. Press and hold the SET/RESET button on the DIC, or the trip odometer reset stem if your vehicle does not have DIC buttons, for more than ﬁve seconds. The oil life will change to 100%. If the CHANGE ENGINE OIL SOON message comes back on when you start your vehicle, the Engine Oil Life System has not reset. Repeat the procedure. What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that can be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the ﬁlter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of used oil, ask your dealer/retailer, a service station, or a local recycling center for help. 5-19 Engine Air Cleaner/Filter (Gasoline Engines) If your vehicle has a diesel engine, see “Pickup Models” under “Engine Air Cleaner/Filter” in the DURAMAX® Diesel Supplement for the correct inspection and replacement procedures. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for the location of the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter and the air ﬁlter restriction indicator, if the vehicle has one. When to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter If your vehicle has an air ﬁlter restriction indicator, it lets you know when the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter needs to be replaced. On vehicles with a restriction indicator, you should inspect the air ﬁlter restriction indicator at every oil change and replace the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter when the indicator tells you to. On vehicles without an air ﬁlter restriction indicator, inspect the air cleaner/ﬁlter at the Maintenance II intervals and replace it at the ﬁrst oil change after each 50,000 mile (80 000 km) interval. See Scheduled Maintenance (Gasoline Engine) on page 6-4 for more information. If you are driving in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect the ﬁlter at each engine oil change. 5-20 How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Vehicles With an Air Filter Restriction Indicator Locate the air ﬁlter restriction indicator on the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter cover. When the indicator turns black or is in the red/orange “change” zone, replace the ﬁlter and reset the indicator. See Steps 1 through 7 to replace the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter and to reset the air ﬁlter restriction indicator. Vehicles Without an Air Filter Restriction Indicator To inspect the air cleaner/ﬁlter, remove the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter from the vehicle by following Steps 1 through 7. When you have the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter removed, lightly shake it to release loose dust and dirt. If the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter remains caked with dirt, a new ﬁlter is required. Replacing the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter and Resetting the Air Filter Restriction Indicator 1. Locate the air cleaner/ﬁlter assembly. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14. 2. Loosen the four screws on the cover of the housing and lift up the cover. 5-21 {CAUTION: Operating the engine with the air cleaner/ﬁlter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps to stop ﬂames if the engine backﬁres. If it is not there and the engine backﬁres, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/ﬁlter off. 3. Remove the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter from the housing. Care should be taken to dislodge as little dirt as possible. 4. Clean the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter sealing surfaces and the housing. 5. Inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter. 6. Reinstall the cover and tighten the screws. 7. Reset the air ﬁlter restriction indicator, if the vehicle has one, by pressing the top button on the indicator. Automatic Transmission Fluid (6-Speed Transmission) When to Check and Change Automatic Transmission Fluid It is usually not necessary to check the transmission ﬂuid level. The only reason for ﬂuid loss is a transmission leak or overheating the transmission. If you suspect a small leak, then use the following checking procedures to check the ﬂuid level. 5-22 However, if there is a large leak, then it may be necessary to have the vehicle towed to a dealer/retailer service department and have it repaired before driving the vehicle further. Notice: Use of the incorrect automatic transmission ﬂuid may damage your vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use the automatic transmission ﬂuid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-14. Change the ﬂuid and ﬁlter at the intervals listed in the Maintenance Schedule. See Scheduled Maintenance (Gasoline Engine) on page 6-4. Be sure to use the transmission ﬂuid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-14. How to Check Automatic Transmission Fluid Notice: Too much or too little ﬂuid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the ﬂuid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a ﬁre. Too little ﬂuid could cause the transmission to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission ﬂuid. Before checking the ﬂuid level, prepare your vehicle as follows: 1. Start the engine and park your vehicle on a level surface. Keep the engine running. 2. Apply the parking brake and place the shift lever in P (PARK). 3. With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, move the shift lever back to P (PARK). 4. Allow the engine to idle (500 – 800 rpm) for at least one minute. Slowly release the brake pedal. 5. Keep the engine running and press the Trip/Fuel button or trip odometer reset stem until TRANS TEMP (Transmission Temperature) displays on the Driver Information Center (DIC). 6. Using the TRANS TEMP reading, determine and perform the appropriate check procedure. If the TRANS TEMP reading is not within the required temperature ranges, allow the vehicle to cool, or operate the vehicle until the appropriate transmission ﬂuid temperature is reached. 5-23 Cold Check Procedure Use this procedure only as a reference to determine if the transmission has enough ﬂuid to be operated safely until a hot check procedure can be made. The hot check procedure is the most accurate method to check the ﬂuid level. Perform the hot check procedure at the ﬁrst opportunity. Use this cold check procedure to check ﬂuid level when the transmission temperature is between 80°F and 90°F (27°C and 32°C). 1. Locate the transmission dipstick at the rear of the engine compartment, on the passenger side of the vehicle. The dipstick handle has this graphic. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for more information. 2. Flip the handle up, and then pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel. 3. Install the dipstick by pushing it back in all the way, wait three seconds, and then pull it back out again. 4. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower level. Repeat the check procedure to verify the reading. 5-24 5. If the ﬂuid level is below the COLD check band, add only enough ﬂuid as necessary to bring the level into the COLD band. It does not take much ﬂuid, generally less than one pint (0.5L). Do not overﬁll. 6. Perform a hot check at the ﬁrst opportunity after the transmission reaches a normal operating temperature between 160°F to 200°F (71°C to 93°C). 7. If the ﬂuid level is in the acceptable range, push the dipstick back in all the way, then ﬂip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place. Hot Check Procedure Use this procedure to check the transmission ﬂuid level when the transmission ﬂuid temperature is between 160°F and 200°F (71°C and 93°C). The hot check is the most accurate method to check the ﬂuid level. The hot check should be performed at the ﬁrst opportunity in order to verify the cold check. The ﬂuid level rises as ﬂuid temperature increases, so it is important to ensure the transmission temperature is within range. 1. Locate the transmission dipstick at the rear of the engine compartment, on the passenger side of the vehicle. The dipstick handle has this graphic. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for more information. 2. Flip the handle up, and then pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel. 3. Install the dipstick by pushing it back in all the way, wait three seconds, and then pull it back out again. 4. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower level. Repeat the check procedure to verify the reading. 5. Safe operating level is within the HOT cross hatch band on the dipstick. If the ﬂuid level is not within the HOT band, and the transmission temperature is between 160°F and 200°F (71°C and 93°C), add or drain ﬂuid as necessary to bring the level into the HOT band. If the ﬂuid level is low, add only enough ﬂuid to bring the level into the HOT band. It does not take much ﬂuid, generally less than one pint (0.5L). Do not overﬁll. 6. If the ﬂuid level is in the acceptable range, push the dipstick back in all the way, then ﬂip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place. 5-25 Consistency of Readings Always check the ﬂuid level at least twice using the procedures described. Consistency (repeatable readings) is important to maintaining proper ﬂuid level. If ﬂuid is added, it may take 15 minutes or longer to obtain an accurate reading because of residual ﬂuid draining down the dipstick tube. If inconsistent readings persist, check the transmission breather to be sure it is clean and not clogged. If readings are still inconsistent, contact your dealer/retailer. Automatic Transmission Fluid (4-Speed Transmission) When to Check and Change Automatic Transmission Fluid A good time to check your automatic transmission ﬂuid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change the ﬂuid and ﬁlter at the intervals listed in Additional Required Services on page 6-6, and be sure to use the transmission ﬂuid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-14. How to Check Automatic Transmission Fluid Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealer/retailer service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick. Notice: Too much or too little ﬂuid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the ﬂuid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a ﬁre. Too little ﬂuid could cause the transmission to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission ﬂuid. Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission ﬂuid level if you have been driving: (cid:127) When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C). (cid:127) At high speed for quite a while. (cid:127) In heavy traffic — especially in hot weather. (cid:127) While pulling a trailer. To get the right reading, the ﬂuid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C). 5-26 Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps: The transmission dipstick handle with this graphic is located at the rear of the engine compartment, on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for more information on location. 1. Flip the handle up and then pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel. 2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and then pull it back out again. Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), drive the vehicle in 3 (Third) until the engine temperature gage moves and then remains steady for 10 minutes. A cold ﬂuid check can be made after the vehicle has been sitting for eight hours or more with the engine off, but this is used only as a reference. Let the engine run at idle for ﬁve minutes if outside temperatures are 50°F (10°C) or more. If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), you may have to idle the engine longer. Should the ﬂuid level be low during this cold check, you must check the ﬂuid hot before adding ﬂuid. Checking the ﬂuid hot will give you a more accurate reading of the ﬂuid level. Checking the Fluid Level Prepare your vehicle as follows: 1. Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine running. 2. With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever in P (Park). 3. With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in P (Park). 4. Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more. 5-27 How to Add Automatic Transmission Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transmission ﬂuid to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-14. Using a funnel, add ﬂuid down the transmission dipstick tube only after checking the transmission ﬂuid while it is hot. A cold check is used only as a reference. If the ﬂuid level is low, add only enough of the proper ﬂuid to bring the level up to the HOT area for a hot check. It does not take much ﬂuid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Do not overﬁll. Notice: Use of the incorrect automatic transmission ﬂuid may damage your vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use the automatic transmission ﬂuid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-14. (cid:127) After adding ﬂuid, recheck the ﬂuid level as described under “How to Check Automatic Transmission Fluid,” earlier in this section. (cid:127) When the correct ﬂuid level is obtained, push the dipstick back in all the way; then ﬂip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place. 3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower level. The ﬂuid level must be in the COLD area, below the cross-hatched area, for a cold check or in the HOT or cross-hatched area for a hot check. Be sure to keep the dipstick pointed down to get an accurate reading. 4. If the ﬂuid level is in the acceptable range, push the dipstick back in all the way; then ﬂip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place. Consistency of Readings Always check the ﬂuid level at least twice using the procedure described previously. Consistency (repeatable readings) is important to maintaining proper ﬂuid level. If readings are still inconsistent, contact your dealer/retailer. 5-28 Engine Coolant If your vehicle has the DURAMAX® Diesel engine, see the DURAMAX® Diesel manual for more information. The cooling system in your vehicle is ﬁlled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for ﬁve years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs ﬁrst, if you add only DEX-COOL® extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating on page 5-32. A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant will: (cid:127) Give freezing protection down to −34°F (−37°C). (cid:127) Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C). (cid:127) Protect against rust and corrosion. (cid:127) Help keep the proper engine temperature. (cid:127) Let the warning lights and gages work as they should. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at the ﬁrst maintenance service after each 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs ﬁrst. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle. 5-29 If you use an improper coolant mixture, Notice: your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core, and other parts. If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer/retailer check your cooling system. Notice: in your vehicle’s cooling system, you could damage your vehicle. Use only the proper mixture of the engine coolant listed in this manual for the cooling system. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-14 for more information. If you use extra inhibitors and/or additives What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL® coolant which will not damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you do not need to add anything else. {CAUTION: Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch ﬁre and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant. 5-30 Checking Coolant The coolant surge tank is located in the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for more information on location. Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture at the surge tank, but only when the engine is cool. See Cooling System on page 5-35 for more information. {CAUTION: {CAUTION: You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine. When replacing the pressure cap, make sure it is hand-tight and fully seated. Turning the surge tank pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. Never turn the surge tank pressure cap — even a little — when the engine and radiator are hot. The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the FULL COLD mark on the coolant surge tank. If your vehicle has a low coolant sensor and the LOW COOLANT LEVEL message comes on and stays on, it means you are low on engine coolant. See “LOW COOLANT LEVEL” under DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-66. 5-31 Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap If the pressure cap is not tightly installed, Notice: coolant loss and possible engine damage may occur. Be sure the cap is properly and tightly secured. The coolant surge tank pressure cap must be fully installed on the coolant surge tank. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for more information on location. Engine Overheating If your vehicle has the DURAMAX® Diesel engine, see the DURAMAX® Diesel manual for more information. You will ﬁnd a coolant temperature gage on your vehicle’s instrument panel. See Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 3-48. In addition, you will ﬁnd ENGINE OVERHEATED STOP ENGINE, ENGINE OVERHEATED IDLE ENGINE, and ENGINE POWER IS REDUCED messages in the Driver Information Center (DIC) on the instrument panel. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-66. If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine {CAUTION: Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when the vehicles engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch ﬁre. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode (V8 Engines Only) on page 5-34 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency. 5-32 If you get the ENGINE OVERHEATED STOP ENGINE or the ENGINE OVERHEATED IDLE ENGINE message with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. If you have an air conditioner and it is on, turn it off. 2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan speed and open the windows as necessary. 3. If you are stopped in a traffic jam, apply the brake, shift to N (NEUTRAL); otherwise, shift to the highest gear while driving — D (DRIVE) or 3 (THIRD). If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning does not come back on, you can drive normally. If your engine catches ﬁre because you Notice: keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode (V8 Engines Only) on page 5-34 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency. If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine The ENGINE OVERHEATED STOP ENGINE or the ENGINE OVERHEATED IDLE ENGINE message, along with a low coolant condition, can indicate a serious problem. If you get an engine overheat warning, but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: (cid:127) Climb a long hill on a hot day. (cid:127) Stop after high-speed driving. (cid:127) Idle for long periods in traffic. (cid:127) Tow a trailer. See Towing a Trailer on page 4-55. 5-33 If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle immediately. If there is still no sign of steam and your vehicle has an engine-driven cooling fan, push down the accelerator until the engine speed is about twice as fast as normal idle speed for at least ﬁve minutes while you are parked. If there is still no sign of steam and your vehicle has an electric cooling fan, idle the engine for ﬁve minutes while you are parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. Also, see “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” later in this section. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away. Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode (V8 Engines Only) If an overheated engine condition exists and the REDUCED ENGINE POWER message is displayed, an overheat protection mode which alternates ﬁring groups of cylinders helps prevent engine damage. In this mode, you will notice a loss in power and engine performance. This operating mode allows your vehicle to be driven to a safe place in an emergency. Driving extended miles (km) and/or towing a trailer in the overheat protection mode should be avoided. Notice: After driving in the overheated engine protection operating mode, to avoid engine damage, allow the engine to cool before attempting any repair. The engine oil will be severely degraded. Repair the cause of coolant loss, change the oil and reset the oil life system. See Engine Oil (Gasoline Engine) on page 5-15. 5-34 Cooling System If your vehicle has the DURAMAX® Diesel engine, see the DURAMAX® Diesel manual for more information. When you decide it is safe to lift the hood, here is what you will see: {CAUTION: An electric engine cooling fan can start even when the engine is not running. To avoid injury, always keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any engine cooling fan. If the coolant inside the coolant surge tank is boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface. Check the coolant level after the system cools down. Some amount of coolant may be lost due to overheating. 5.3L Engine (4.3L, 4.8L and 6.0L Similar) A. Coolant Surge Tank B. Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap C. Engine Cooling Fan 5-35 {CAUTION: Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine ﬁre, and you could be burned. Get any leak ﬁxed before you drive the vehicle. Notice: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant is not covered by your warranty. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode (V8 Engines Only) on page 5-34 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant could require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs ﬁrst. Any repairs would not be covered by the warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in the vehicle. The coolant level should be at or above the FULL COLD mark. If it is not, you may have a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump, or somewhere else in the cooling system. 5-36 How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Surge Tank for Gasoline Engines If your vehicle has a diesel engine, see “Cooling System” in the DURAMAX® Diesel Supplement for the proper coolant ﬁll procedure. If you have not found a problem yet, check to see if coolant is visible in the surge tank. If coolant is visible but the coolant level is not at or above the FULL COLD mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant at the coolant surge tank, but be sure the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is cool before you do it. See Engine Coolant on page 5-29 for more information. If no coolant is visible in the surge tank, add coolant as follows: {CAUTION: Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the coolant surge tank pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and coolant surge tank pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap. 5-37 {CAUTION: {CAUTION: Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch ﬁre and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and a proper coolant. In cold weather, water can freeze and crack Notice: the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture. You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine. 1. Remove the coolant surge tank pressure cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise about one full turn. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left. 2. Then keep turning the pressure cap slowly, and remove it. 5-38 3. Fill the coolant surge tank with the proper mixture, to the FULL COLD mark. 4. With the coolant surge tank pressure cap off, start the engine and let it run until the engine coolant temperature gage indicates approximately 195°F (90°C). By this time, the coolant level inside the coolant surge tank may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper mixture to the coolant surge tank until the level reaches the FULL COLD mark. 5. Then replace the pressure cap. Be sure the pressure cap is hand-tight and fully seated. 6. Verify coolant level after engine is shut off and the coolant is cold. If necessary, repeat coolant ﬁll procedure Steps 1 through 6. 5-39 Engine Fan Noise If your vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan, when the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide more air to cool the engine. In most everyday driving conditions, the fan is spinning slower and the clutch is not fully engaged. This improves fuel economy and reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing, and/or high outside temperatures, the fan speed increases as the clutch more fully engages, so you may hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and should not be mistaken as the transmission slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system functioning properly. The fan will slow down when additional cooling is not required and the clutch disengages. You may also hear this fan noise when you start the engine. It will go away as the fan clutch partially disengages. If your vehicle has electric cooling fans, you may hear the fans spinning at low speed during most everyday driving. The fans may turn off if no cooling is required. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing, and/or high outside temperatures, or if you are operating your air conditioning system, the fans may change to high speed and you may hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and indicates that the cooling system is functioning properly. The fans will change to low speed when additional cooling is no longer required. 5-40 Power Steering Fluid See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for reservoir location. When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering ﬂuid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A ﬂuid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. How to Check Power Steering Fluid To check the power steering ﬂuid, do the following: 1. Turn the key off and let the engine compartment cool down. 2. Wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean. 3. Unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. 4. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. 5. Remove the cap again and look at the ﬂuid level on the dipstick. The level should be at the FULL COLD mark. If necessary, add only enough ﬂuid to bring the level up to the mark. What to Use To determine what kind of ﬂuid to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-14. Always use the proper ﬂuid. Notice: Use of the incorrect ﬂuid may damage your vehicle and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use the correct ﬂuid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-14. 5-41 Notice: (cid:127) When using concentrated washer ﬂuid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water. (cid:127) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer ﬂuid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer ﬂuid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer ﬂuid. (cid:127) Fill the washer ﬂuid tank only three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for ﬂuid expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full. (cid:127) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage the vehicle’s windshield washer system and paint. Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When windshield washer ﬂuid needs to be added, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. Use a ﬂuid that has sufficient protection against freezing in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing. Adding Washer Fluid Your vehicle has a low washer ﬂuid message in the DIC that comes on when the washer ﬂuid is low. The message is displayed for 15 seconds at the start of each ignition cycle. When the WASHER FLUID LOW ADD FLUID message displays, you will need to add washer ﬂuid to the windshield washer ﬂuid reservoir. Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer ﬂuid until the tank is full. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for reservoir location. 5-42 Brakes Brake Fluid The brake master cylinder reservoir is ﬁlled with DOT-3 brake ﬂuid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for the location of the reservoir. There are only two reasons why the brake ﬂuid level in the reservoir might go down. The ﬁrst is that the brake ﬂuid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the ﬂuid level goes back up. The other reason is that ﬂuid is leaking out of the brake hydraulic system. If it is, have the brake hydraulic system ﬁxed, since a leak means that sooner or later the brakes will not work well. It is not a good idea to top off the brake ﬂuid. Adding brake ﬂuid will not correct a leak. If ﬂuid is added when the linings are worn, there will be too much ﬂuid when new brake linings are installed. Add or remove brake ﬂuid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. {CAUTION: If you have too much brake ﬂuid, it can spill on the engine. The ﬂuid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake ﬂuid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. See “Checking Brake Fluid” in this section. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to check the brake ﬂuid. See Scheduled Maintenance (Gasoline Engine) on page 6-4. 5-43 Checking Brake Fluid The brake ﬂuid can be checked without taking off the cap by looking at the brake ﬂuid reservoir. Always clean the brake ﬂuid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This helps keep dirt from entering the reservoir. The ﬂuid level should be above MIN. If it is not, have the brake hydraulic system checked to see if there is a leak. After work is done on the brake hydraulic system, make sure the level is above the MIN but not over the MAX mark. What to Add When you do need brake ﬂuid, use only DOT-3 brake ﬂuid. Use new brake ﬂuid from a sealed container only. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-14. 5-44 {CAUTION: With the wrong kind of ﬂuid in the brake hydraulic system, the brakes might not work well. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake ﬂuid. Notice: (cid:127) Using the wrong ﬂuid can badly damage brake hydraulic system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in the brake hydraulic system can damage brake hydraulic system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of ﬂuid. (cid:127) If you spill brake ﬂuid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint ﬁnish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake ﬂuid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-118. Brake Wear Your vehicle has front disc brakes and could have rear drum brakes or rear disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound can come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving, except when you are pushing on the brake pedal ﬁrmly. {CAUTION: The brake wear warning sound means that soon the brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced. Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair. Some driving conditions or climates can cause a brake squeal when the brakes are ﬁrst applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with the brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to torque speciﬁcations in Capacities and Speciﬁcations on page 5-133. If you have rear drum brakes, they do not have wear indicators, but if you ever hear a rear brake rubbing noise, have the rear brake linings inspected immediately. Rear brake drums should be removed and inspected each time the tires are removed for rotation or changing. Drum brakes have an inspection hole to inspect lining wear during scheduled maintenance. When you have the front brake pads replaced, have the rear brakes inspected, too. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer/retailer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign that brake service might be required. Brake Adjustment Every time you make a brake stop, the brakes adjust for wear. 5-45 Vehicle Storage {CAUTION: Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 5-47 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt. Infrequent Usage: If you drive your vehicle infrequently, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery. This will help keep the battery from running down. Extended Storage: For extended storage of your vehicle, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery or use a battery trickle charger. This will help maintain the charge of the battery over an extended period of time. Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality brake parts. When you replace parts of the braking system — for example, when the brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure you get new approved replacement parts. If you do not, the brakes might not work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between the front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance you have come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts. Battery Your vehicle has a maintenance free battery (or batteries). When it is time for a new battery, see your dealer/retailer for one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for battery location. Warning: Battery posts, terminals, and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling. 5-46 Jump Starting If your vehicle’s battery (or batteries) has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely. {CAUTION: Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because: (cid:127) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:127) They contain gas that can explode or (cid:127) They contain enough electricity to ignite. burn you. If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you. Ignoring these steps could result in costly Notice: damage to your vehicle that would not be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage your vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt battery with a negative ground system. If the other vehicle’s system is not a 12-volt Notice: system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. If you have a vehicle with a diesel engine with two batteries, you should know before you begin that, especially in cold weather, you may not be able to get enough power from a single battery in another vehicle to start your diesel engine. If your vehicle has more than one battery, use the battery that is closer to the starter — this will reduce electrical resistance. This is located on the passenger side, in the rear of the engine compartment. 5-47 3. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause an unwanted ground connection. You would not be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake ﬁrmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put the automatic transmission in P (PARK) or a manual transmission in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear, not in NEUTRAL. 5. Open the hood on the other vehicle and locate the positive (+) and negative (−) terminal locations on that vehicle. The positive (+) terminal, is located under a red plastic cover at the positive battery post. To uncover the positive (+) terminal, open the red plastic cover. If you leave your radio or other accessories Notice: on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and other accessories when jump starting your vehicle. 4. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or the accessory power outlets. Turn off the radio and all the lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save the radio! 5-48 The remote negative (-) terminal is a stud located on the right front passenger side of the engine, where the negative battery cable attaches. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14. {CAUTION: An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan. {CAUTION: Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a ﬂashlight if you need more light. CAUTION: (Continued) CAUTION: (Continued) Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has ﬁller caps, be sure the right amount of ﬂuid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that ﬁrst. If you do not, explosive gas could be present. Battery ﬂuid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, ﬂush the place with water and get medical help immediately. {CAUTION: Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running. 5-49 6. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks. 7. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the vehicle with the dead battery. 8. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. 9. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. 10. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to the remote negative (−) terminal, on the vehicle with the dead battery. 11. Start the vehicle with the good battery and run the engine for a while. 12. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery. If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service. 5.3L engine (4.3L, 4.8L and 6.0L similar), 5-50 If the jumper cables are connected or Notice: removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always connect and remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal. To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the vehicle that had the bad battery. 2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the vehicle with the good battery. 3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the vehicle with the good battery. 4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other vehicle. 5. Return the positive (+) terminal cover, to its original position. Jumper Cable Removal A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or Remote Negative (−) Terminal B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and Remote Negative (−) Terminals C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal 5-51 How to Check Lubricant 2500HD with 6.0L Rear Axle When to Check Lubricant It is not necessary to regularly check rear axle ﬂuid unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an unusual noise. A ﬂuid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired. All axle assemblies are ﬁlled by volume of ﬂuid during production. They are not ﬁlled to reach a certain level. When checking the ﬂuid level on any axle, variations in the readings can be caused by factory ﬁll differences between the minimum and the maximum ﬂuid volume. Also, if a vehicle has just been driven before checking the ﬂuid level, it may appear lower than normal because ﬂuid has traveled out along the axle tubes and has not drained back to the sump area. Therefore, a reading taken ﬁve minutes after the vehicle has been driven will appear to have a lower ﬂuid level than a vehicle that has been stationary for an hour or two. Remember that the rear axle assembly must be supported to get a true reading. 5-52 All Other Series and Engines To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. (cid:127) For all 4.3L, 4.8L and 5.3L 1500 Series applications, the proper level is 0.04 inches to 0.75 inches (1.0 mm to 19.0 mm) below the bottom of the ﬁller hole, located on the rear axle. Add only enough ﬂuid to reach the proper level. (cid:127) For all 6.0L 1500 Series applications, the proper level is from 0.6 inches to 1.6 inches (15 mm to 40 mm) below the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole, located on the rear axle. Add only enough ﬂuid to reach the proper level. (cid:127) For all 6.0L 2500HD Series applications, the proper level is from 0 to 0.5 inches (0 mm to 13 mm) below the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole, located on the rear axle. Add only enough ﬂuid to reach the proper level. (cid:127) For all 6.6L DURAMAX DIESEL 2500HD Series applications and all 3500 Series applications, the proper level is from 0.6 inches to 0.8 inches (17 mm to 21 mm) below the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole, located on the rear axle. Add only enough ﬂuid to reach the proper level. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-14. 5-53 How to Check Lubricant Four-Wheel Drive Lubricant checks in this section also apply to these vehicles. Transfer Case When to Check Lubricant It is not necessary to regularly check transfer case ﬂuid unless you suspect there is a leak, or you hear an unusual noise. A ﬂuid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired. Electric Shift Transfer Case A. Fill Plug B. Drain Plug 5-54 Manual Shift Transfer Case Active Transfer Case A. Fill Plug B. Drain Plug A. Fill Plug B. Drain Plug To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. If the level is below the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole, located on the transfer case, you will need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole. Use care not to overtighten the plug. 5-55 When to Change Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to change the lubricant. See Scheduled Maintenance (Gasoline Engine) on page 6-4. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-14. Front Axle When to Check and Change Lubricant It is not necessary to regularly check front axle ﬂuid unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an unusual noise. A ﬂuid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired. How to Check Lubricant 1500 Series A. Fill Plug B. Drain Plug 5-56 To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. (cid:127) When the differential is cold, add enough lubricant to raise the level from 0 (0 mm) to 1/8 inch (3.2 mm) below the ﬁller plug hole. (cid:127) When the differential is at operating temperature (warm), add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-14. Noise Control System Tampering with Noise Control System Prohibited The following information relates to compliance with federal noise emission standards for vehicles with a Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) of more than 10,000 lbs (4 536 kg). The Maintenance Schedule provides information on maintaining the noise control system to minimize degradation of the noise emission control system during the life of your vehicle. The noise control system warranty is given in your warranty booklet. These standards apply only to vehicles sold in the United States. Federal law prohibits the following acts or the causing thereof: 1. The removal or rendering inoperative by any person, other than for purposes of maintenance, repair or replacement, of any device or element of design incorporated into any new vehicle for the purpose of noise control, prior to its sale or delivery to the ultimate purchaser or while it is in use; or 2. The use of the vehicle after such device or element of design has been removed or rendered inoperative by any person. 5-57 Headlamp Aiming The vehicle has a visual optical headlamp aiming system. The aim of the headlamps have been preset at the factory and should need no further adjustment. However, if the vehicle is damaged in a crash, the aim of the headlamps can be affected and adjustment can be necessary. If oncoming vehicles ﬂash their high beams at you, this can mean the vertical aim of your headlamps needs to be adjusted. It is recommended that the vehicle is taken to your dealer/retailer for service if the headlamps need to be adjusted. It is possible however, to re-aim the headlamps as described. Among those acts presumed to constitute tampering are the acts listed below. Insulation: (cid:127) Removal of the noise shields or any underhood insulation. Engine: (cid:127) Removal or rendering engine speed governor, if the vehicle has one, inoperative so as to allow engine speed to exceed manufacturer speciﬁcations. Fan and Drive: (cid:127) Removal of fan clutch, if the vehicle has one, or rendering clutch inoperative. (cid:127) Removal of the fan shroud, if the vehicle has one. Air Intake: (cid:127) Removal of the air cleaner silencer. (cid:127) Modiﬁcation of the air cleaner. Exhaust: (cid:127) Removal of the muffler and/or resonator. (cid:127) Removal of the exhaust pipes and exhaust pipe clamps. 5-58 The vehicle should: (cid:127) Be placed so the headlamps are 25 ft. (7.6 m) from a light colored wall. To adjust the vertical aim: 1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on page 5-13 for more information. (cid:127) Have all four tires on a level surface which is level all the way to the wall. (cid:127) Be placed so it is perpendicular to the wall. (cid:127) Not have any snow, ice, or mud on it. (cid:127) Be fully assembled and all other work stopped while headlamp aiming is being performed. (cid:127) Be normally loaded with a full tank of fuel and one person or 160 lbs (75 kg) sitting on the driver seat. (cid:127) Have tires properly inﬂated. (cid:127) Have the spare tire is in its proper location in the vehicle. Headlamp aiming is done with the vehicle’s low-beam headlamps. The high-beam headlamps will be correctly aimed if the low-beam headlamps are aimed properly. 2. Locate the aim dot on the lens of the low-beam headlamp. 3. Record the distance from the ground to the aim dot on the low-beam headlamp. 5-59 4. At a wall measure from the ground upward (A) to the recorded distance from Step 3 and mark it. 5. Draw or tape a horizontal line (B) on the wall or ﬂat surface the width of the vehicle at the height of the mark in Step 4. Notice: Do not cover a headlamp to improve beam cut-off when aiming. Covering a headlamp may cause excessive heat build-up which may cause damage to the headlamp. 6. Turn on the low-beam headlamps and place a piece of cardboard or equivalent in front of the headlamp not being adjusted. This allows only the beam of light from the headlamp being adjusted to be seen on the ﬂat surface. 5-60 7. Locate the vertical headlamp aiming screws, which are under the hood near each headlamp assembly. The adjustment screw can be turned with a E8 Torx® socket. 8. Turn the vertical aiming screw until the headlamp beam is aimed to the horizontal tape line. Turn it clockwise or counterclockwise to raise or lower the angle of the beam. 9. Make sure that the light from the headlamp is positioned at the bottom edge of the horizontal tape line. The lamp on the left (A) shows the correct headlamp aim. The lamp on the right (B) shows the incorrect headlamp aim. 10. Repeat Steps 7 through 9 for the opposite headlamp. Bulb Replacement For the proper type of replacement bulbs, see Replacement Bulbs on page 5-66. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer/retailer. Halogen Bulbs {CAUTION: Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package. 5-61 Headlamps To replace one of these bulbs: 1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on page 5-13 for more information. 2. If you are replacing the bulb on the passenger side remove the Engine Air Cleaner cover. See Engine Air Cleaner/Filter (Gasoline Engines) on page 5-20 for more information. 3. Reach in and access the bulb sockets from inside the engine compartment. 5-62 4. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise to remove it from the headlamp assembly and pull it straight out. 5. Unplug the electrical connector from the old bulb by releasing the clips on the bulb socket. 6. Replace it with a new bulb socket. 7. Plug in the electrical connector to the new bulb socket.

Boost Classifieds - Car Advice, Reviews, Events & Classifieds

2008 Chevrolet Silverado Owners Manual