2005 Chevrolet Silverado Owners Manual

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you may get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If this occurs, use gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. Otherwise, you might damage your engine. Gasoline Speciﬁcations It is recommended that gasoline meet speciﬁcations which were developed by automobile manufacturers around the world and contained in the World-Wide Fuel Charter which is available from the Alliance of Automobile Manufacturers at www.autoalliance.org/fuel_charter.htm. Gasoline meeting these speciﬁcations could provide improved driveability and emission control system performance compared to other gasoline. California Fuel If your vehicle is certiﬁed to meet California Emission Standards (see the underhood emission control label), it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California speciﬁcations. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal speciﬁcations, but emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on and your vehicle may fail a smog-check test. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-44. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs may not be covered by your warranty. 5-6 Additives To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that will help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing your emission control system to work properly. In most cases, you should not have to add anything to your fuel. However, some gasolines contain only the minimum amount of additive required to meet U.S. Environmental Protection Agency regulations. General Motors recommends that you buy gasolines that are advertised to help keep fuel injectors and intake valves clean. If your vehicle experiences problems due to dirty injectors or valves, try a different brand of gasoline. Also, your GM dealer has additives that will help correct and prevent most deposit-related problems. Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in your area to contribute to clean air. General Motors recommends that you use these gasolines, particularly if they comply with the speciﬁcations described earlier. Notice: Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage the plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under your warranty. Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT. General Motors does not recommend the use of such gasolines. Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for service. 5-7 Fuel E-85 (85% Ethanol) The 8th digit of your vehicle identiﬁcation number (VIN) shows the code letter or number that identiﬁes your engine. You will ﬁnd the VIN at the top left of the instrument panel. See Vehicle Identiﬁcation Number (VIN) on page 5-126. If your vehicle has the 5.3L V8 engine (VIN Code Z only), you may use either regular unleaded gasoline or ethanol fuel containing up to 85% ethanol (E-85); also see Fuel on page 5-5. In all other engines, including the 5.3L V8 (VIN Code T), use only regular unleaded gasoline. Only vehicles that have the 5.3L V8 engine (VIN Code Z) may use 85% ethanol fuel (E-85). General Motors encourages the use of E-85 in vehicles that are designed to use it. The ethanol in E-85 is a “renewable” fuel, meaning it is made from renewable sources such as corn and other crops. Many service stations will not have an 85% ethanol fuel (E-85) pump available. The U. S. Department of Energy has an alternative fuels website (http://www.afdc.doe.gov/refueling_mapsite.shtml) that can help you ﬁnd E-85 fuel. Those stations that do have E-85 should have a label indicating ethanol content. Do not use the fuel if the ethanol content is greater than 85%. Your vehicle may not operate properly if the ethanol content is greater than 85%. At a minimum, E-85 should meet ASTM Speciﬁcation D 5798. To ensure quick starts in the wintertime, the E-85 fuel must be formulated properly for your climate according to ASTM speciﬁcation D 5798. If you have trouble starting on E-85, it may be because your E-85 fuel is not properly formulated for your climate. If this happens, switching to gasoline or adding gasoline to your fuel tank may improve starting. Your vehicle is designed to accommodate a mixture of gasoline and E-85 fuel. For good starting and heater efficiency below 32°F (0°C), the fuel mix in the fuel tank should contain no more than 70% ethanol. 5-8 E-85 has less energy per gallon than gasoline, so you will need to reﬁll your fuel tank more often when using E-85 than when you are using gasoline. Regular unleaded gasoline is recommended when pulling a trailer. For payload capacity with ethanol fuel, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-50. Notice: Some additives are not compatible with E-85 fuel and may harm your fuel system. Damage caused by additives would not be covered by your new vehicle warranty. Do not use additives with E-85 fuel. Notice: Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage the plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under your warranty. Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard to ﬁnd. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel would not be covered by your warranty. To check the fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you will be driving. 5-9 {CAUTION: If you spill fuel and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any hiss noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way. If your vehicle is a dual fuel tank chassis cab model, and it runs out of fuel, refuel the front fuel tank ﬁrst to ensure a quick restart. Be careful not to spill fuel. Do not top off or overﬁll the tank and wait a few seconds after you have ﬁnished pumping before removing the nozzle. Clean fuel from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-121. Filling Your Tank {CAUTION: Fuel vapor burns violently and a fuel ﬁre can cause bad injuries. To help avoid injuries to you and others, read and follow all the instructions on the pump island. Turn off your engine when you are refueling. Do not smoke if you are near fuel or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, ﬂames and smoking materials away from fuel. Do not leave the fuel pump unattended when refueling your vehicle — this is against the law in some places. Keep children away from the fuel pump; never let children pump fuel. The tethered fuel cap is located behind a hinged fuel door on the driver’s side of the vehicle. To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly to the left (counterclockwise). It will require more effort to turn the fuel cap on the last turn as you loosen it. 5-10 When replacing the fuel cap, turn it to the right (clockwise) until it clicks. It will require more effort to turn the fuel cap on the last turn as you tighten it. Make sure the cap is fully installed. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-44. {CAUTION: If a ﬁre starts while you are refueling, do not remove the nozzle. Shut off the ﬂow of fuel by shutting off the pump or by notifying the station attendant. Leave the area immediately. If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get Notice: the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not ﬁt properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage your fuel tank and emissions system. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-44. Filling a Portable Fuel Container {CAUTION: Never ﬁll a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others: (cid:127) Dispense gasoline only into approved containers. (cid:127) Do not ﬁll a container while it is inside a vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed or on any surface other than the ground. (cid:127) Bring the ﬁll nozzle in contact with the inside of the ﬁll opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the ﬁlling is complete. (cid:127) Do not smoke while pumping gasoline. 5-11 Checking Things Under the Hood {CAUTION: An electric fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan. {CAUTION: Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a ﬁre. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake ﬂuid, windshield washer and other ﬂuids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine. 5-12 Hood Release To open the hood do the following: 1. Pull the handle located inside the vehicle to the lower left of the steering wheel. 2. Then go to the front of the vehicle and pull up on the secondary hood release located near the center of the grille. 3. Lift the hood. Before closing the hood, be sure all the ﬁller caps are on properly. Then pull down the hood and close it ﬁrmly. 5-13 Engine Compartment Overview When you open the hood on the VORTEC™ 4300 V6 engine, here is what you will see: 5-14 A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air Cleaner/Filter on page 5-25. B. Coolant Surge Tank and Pressure Cap. See Engine Coolant on page 5-35 and Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap on page 5-38. C. Air Filter Restriction Indicator (If Equipped). See Engine Air Cleaner/Filter on page 5-25. D. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil” under Engine Oil (Gasoline Engine) on page 5-20. E. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick (If Equipped). See “Checking the Fluid Level” under Automatic Transmission Fluid (Except Allison Transmission®) on page 5-27 or Automatic Transmission Fluid (Allison Transmission®) on page 5-30. F. Electric Engine Cooling Fan (If Equipped). See Cooling System on page 5-40. G. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil” under Engine Oil (Gasoline Engine) on page 5-20. H. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See Power Steering Fluid on page 5-46. I. Remote Negative (−) Terminal (GND). See Jump Starting on page 5-54. J. Remote Positive (+) Terminal. See Jump Starting on page 5-54. K. Brake Fluid Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid” under Brakes on page 5-49. L. Clutch Fluid Reservoir (If Equipped). See Hydraulic Clutch on page 5-34. M. Underhood Fuse Block. See Underhood Fuse Block on page 5-131. N. Battery. See Battery on page 5-53. O. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-48. 5-15 When you open the hood on the VORTEC™ 5300 V8 engine (VORTEC™ 4800 and 6000 V8 engines similar), here is what you will see: 5-16 A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air Cleaner/Filter on page 5-25. B. Coolant Surge Tank and Pressure Cap. See Engine Coolant on page 5-35 and Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap on page 5-38. C. Air Filter Restriction Indicator (If Equipped). See Engine Air Cleaner/Filter on page 5-25. D. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil” under Engine Oil (Gasoline Engine) on page 5-20. E. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick (If Equipped). See “Checking the Fluid Level” under Automatic Transmission Fluid (Except Allison Transmission®) on page 5-27 or Automatic Transmission Fluid (Allison Transmission®) on page 5-30. F. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil” under Engine Oil (Gasoline Engine) on page 5-20. G. Electric Engine Cooling Fan (If Equipped). See Cooling System on page 5-40. H. Remote Negative (−) Terminal (GND). See Jump Starting on page 5-54. I. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See Power Steering Fluid on page 5-46. J. Remote Positive (+) Terminal. See Jump Starting on page 5-54. K. Brake Fluid Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid” under Brakes on page 5-49. L. Clutch Fluid Reservoir (If Equipped). See Hydraulic Clutch on page 5-34. M. Underhood Fuse Block. See Underhood Fuse Block on page 5-131. N. Battery. See Battery on page 5-53. O. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-48. 5-17 When you open the hood on the VORTEC™ 8100 V8 engine, here is what you will see: 5-18 A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air Cleaner/Filter on page 5-25. B. Coolant Surge Tank and Pressure Cap. See Engine Coolant on page 5-35 and Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap on page 5-38. C. Air Filter Restriction Indicator (If Equipped). See Engine Air Cleaner/Filter on page 5-25. D. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil” under Engine Oil (Gasoline Engine) on page 5-20. E. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick (If Equipped). See “Checking the Fluid Level” under Automatic Transmission Fluid (Except Allison Transmission®) on page 5-27 or Automatic Transmission Fluid (Allison Transmission®) on page 5-30. F. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil” under Engine Oil (Gasoline Engine) on page 5-20. I. Remote Positive (+) Terminal. See Jump Starting on page 5-54. J. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See Power Steering Fluid on page 5-46. K. Brake Fluid Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid” under Brakes on page 5-49. L. Clutch Fluid Reservoir (If Equipped). See Hydraulic Clutch on page 5-34. M. Underhood Fuse Block. See Underhood Fuse Block on page 5-131. N. Battery. See Battery on page 5-53. O. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-48. G. Engine-Driven Cooling Fan. See Cooling System on page 5-40. H. Remote Negative (−) Terminal (GND). See Jump Starting on page 5-54. 5-19 Engine Oil (Gasoline Engine) If your vehicle has a diesel engine, see “Engine Oil” in the Diesel Engine Supplement. If the CHECK OIL LEVEL light appears on the instrument cluster (except vehicles equipped with the 4.3L engine), it means you need to check your engine oil level right away. For more information, see Driver Information Center (DIC) on page 3-50. You should check your engine oil level regularly; this is an added reminder. Checking Engine Oil It is a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground. The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for the location of the engine oil dipstick. 1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you do not do this, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level. 2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level. 5-20 All Other Engines 8.1L Engine When to Add Engine Oil If the oil is at or below the cross-hatched area at the tip of the dipstick, then you will need to add at least one quart of oil. But you must use the right kind. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Speciﬁcations on page 5-136. Notice: Do not add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged. What Kind of Engine Oil to Use Look for two things: (cid:127) GM6094M See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for the location of the engine oil ﬁll cap. Your vehicle’s engine requires oil meeting GM Standard GM6094M. You should look for and use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM6094M. Be sure to add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you are through. 5-21 (cid:127) SAE 5W-30 As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50. Oils meeting these requirements should also have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certiﬁed by the American Petroleum Institute (API). You should look for this information on the oil container, and use only those oils that are identiﬁed as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and have the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. 5-22 Notice: Use only engine oil identiﬁed as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and showing the American Petroleum Institute Certiﬁed For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty. GM Goodwrench® oil meets all the requirements for your vehicle. If you are in an area of extreme cold, where the temperature falls below −20°F (−29°C), it is recommended that you use either an SAE 5W-30 synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both will provide easier cold starting and better protection for your engine at extremely low temperatures. Engine Oil Additives Do not add anything to your oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol that meet GM Standard GM6094M are all you will need for good performance and engine protection. Engine Oil Life System (Gasoline Engine) When to Change Engine Oil Your vehicle has a computer system that lets you know when to change the engine oil and ﬁlter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change will be indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, you must reset the system every time the oil is changed. When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it will indicate that an oil change is necessary. A CHANGE ENGINE OIL message will come on. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-54. Change your oil as soon as possible within the next 600 miles (1 000 km). It is possible that, if you are driving under the best conditions, the oil life system may not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, your engine oil and ﬁlter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. Your dealer has GM-trained service people who will perform this work using genuine GM parts and reset the system. It is also important to check your oil regularly and keep it at the proper level. 5-23 What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the ﬁlter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help. If the system is ever reset accidentally, you must change your oil at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since your last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed. How to Reset the Engine Oil Life System The Engine Oil Life System calculates when to change your engine oil and ﬁlter based on vehicle use. Anytime your oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where you change your oil prior to a CHANGE ENGINE OIL message being turned on, reset the system. To reset the Engine Oil Life System, do the following: 1. Turn the ignition key to RUN with the engine off. 2. Fully press and release the accelerator pedal three times within ﬁve seconds. If the OIL LIFE RESET message ﬂashes for 10 seconds, the system is resetting. 3. Turn the key to LOCK. If the CHANGE ENGINE OIL message comes back on when you start your vehicle, the engine oil life system has not reset. Repeat the procedure. If it still does not reset, see your dealer for service. 5-24 Engine Air Cleaner/Filter See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for the location of the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter and the air ﬁlter restriction indicator, if equipped. When to Inspect If your vehicle is equipped with an air ﬁlter restriction indicator, it lets you know when the engine air cleaner/ ﬁlter needs to be replaced. On vehicles with a restriction indicator, you should inspect the air ﬁlter restriction indicator at every oil change and replace the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter when the indicator tells you to. On vehicles without an air ﬁlter restriction indicator, inspect the air cleaner/ﬁlter at the Maintenance II intervals and replace it at the ﬁrst oil change after 50,000 miles (83 000 km). See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 for more information. If you are driving in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect the ﬁlter at each engine oil change. How to Inspect Vehicles with an Air Filter Restriction Indicator Locate the air ﬁlter restriction indicator on the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter cover. When the indicator turns black or is in the red/orange “change” zone, replace the ﬁlter and reset the indicator. See the steps following to replace the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter and to reset the air ﬁlter restriction indicator. Vehicles without an Air Filter Restriction Indicator To inspect the air cleaner/ﬁlter, remove the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter from the vehicle using the steps following. When you have the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter removed, lightly shake it to release loose dust and dirt. If the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter remains caked with dirt, a new ﬁlter is required. 5-25 Replacing the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter and Resetting the Air Filter Restriction Indicator 3. Remove the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter from the housing. Care should be taken to dislodge as little dirt as possible. 4. Clean the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter sealing surfaces and the housing. 5. Inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter. 1. Locate the air cleaner/ﬁlter assembly on the front corner of the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. 2. Loosen the screws on the cover of the housing and lift up the cover. 5-26 6. Reinstall the cover and tighten the screws. 7. Reset the air ﬁlter restriction indicator, if equipped, by pressing the top button on the indicator. {CAUTION: Operating the engine with the air cleaner/ﬁlter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps to stop ﬂame if the engine backﬁres. If it is not there and the engine backﬁres, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/ﬁlter off. Automatic Transmission Fluid (Except Allison Transmission®) When to Check and Change A good time to check your automatic transmission ﬂuid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change both the ﬂuid and ﬁlter every 50,000 miles (83 000 km) if the vehicle’s GVWR is over 8,600 lbs (3 901 kg) or if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions: In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or higher. In hilly or mountainous terrain. (cid:127) When doing frequent trailer towing. (cid:127) Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service. If your vehicle’s GVWR is not over 8,600 lbs (3 901 kg) and you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, change the ﬂuid and ﬁlter every 100,000 miles (166 000 km). See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4. 5-27 (cid:127) (cid:127) Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), drive the vehicle in THIRD (3) until the engine temperature gage moves and then remains steady for 10 minutes. A cold ﬂuid check can be made after the vehicle has been sitting for eight hours or more with the engine off, but this is used only as a reference. Let the engine run at idle for ﬁve minutes if outside temperatures are 50°F (10°C) or more. If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), you may have to idle the engine longer. Should the ﬂuid level be low during this cold check, you must check the ﬂuid hot before adding ﬂuid. Checking the ﬂuid hot will give you a more accurate reading of the ﬂuid level. Checking the Fluid Level Prepare your vehicle as follows: (cid:127) Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine running. (cid:127) With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever in PARK (P). How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick. Notice: Too much or too little ﬂuid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the ﬂuid could come out and fall on hot engine part or exhaust system parts, starting a ﬁre. Too little ﬂuid could cause the transmission to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission ﬂuid. Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission ﬂuid level if you have been driving: (cid:127) When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C). (cid:127) At high speed for quite a while. In heavy traffic — especially in hot weather. (cid:127) While pulling a trailer. To get the right reading, the ﬂuid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C). 5-28 (cid:127) (cid:127) With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P). Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more. Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps: The transmission dipstick handle with this graphic is located at the rear of the engine compartment, on the passenger’s side. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for more information on location. 1. Flip the handle up and then pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel. 2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and then pull it back out again. 3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower level. The ﬂuid level must be in the COLD area, below the cross-hatched area, for a cold check or in the HOT area or cross-hatched area for a hot check. Be sure to keep the dipstick pointed down to get an accurate reading. 4. If the ﬂuid level is in the acceptable range, push the dipstick back in all the way; then ﬂip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place. Consistency of Readings Always check the ﬂuid level at least twice using the procedure described previously. Consistency (repeatable readings) is important to maintaining proper ﬂuid level. If inconsistent readings persist, check the transmission breather hose to be sure it is clean and unclogged. If readings are still inconsistent, contact your dealer. 5-29 (cid:127) How to Add Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transmission ﬂuid to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13. Add ﬂuid only after checking the transmission ﬂuid while it is hot. A cold check is used only as a reference. If the ﬂuid level is low, add only enough of the proper ﬂuid to bring the level up to the HOT area for a hot check. It does not take much ﬂuid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Do not overﬁll. Notice: Use of automatic transmission ﬂuid labeled other than DEXRON®-III, Approved for the H-Speciﬁcation, may damage your vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use automatic transmission ﬂuid labeled DEXRON®-III, Approved for the H-Speciﬁcation. (cid:127) After adding ﬂuid, recheck the ﬂuid level as described under “How to Check,” earlier in this section. (cid:127) When the correct ﬂuid level is obtained, push the dipstick back in all the way; then ﬂip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place. Automatic Transmission Fluid (Allison Transmission®) When to Check and Change A good time to check your automatic transmission ﬂuid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change both the ﬂuid and ﬁlter every 25,000 miles (41 500 km) if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions: In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or higher. In hilly or mountainous terrain. (cid:127) When doing frequent trailer towing. (cid:127) Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service. If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, change the ﬂuid and ﬁlter every 50,000 miles (83 000 km). See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4. 5-30 (cid:127) (cid:127) How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick. Notice: Too much or too little ﬂuid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the ﬂuid could come out and fall on hot engine part or exhaust system parts, starting a ﬁre. Too little ﬂuid could cause the transmission to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission ﬂuid. Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission ﬂuid level if you have been driving: (cid:127) When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C). (cid:127) At high speed for quite a while. In heavy traffic — especially in hot weather. (cid:127) While pulling a trailer. Checking the Fluid Level Prepare your vehicle as follows: (cid:127) Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine running. (cid:127) With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever in PARK (P). (cid:127) With your foot on the brake pedal, run the engine for at least once minute and shift to DRIVE (D). Then shift to NEUTRAL (N) and then REVERSE (R) to ﬁll the hydraulic system. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P). (cid:127) Allow the engine to run at idle (500–800 rpm). Slowly release the brake pedal. Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps: Cold Check Procedure The purpose of the cold check is to determine if the transmission has enough ﬂuid to be operated safely until a hot check can be made. The ﬂuid level rises as ﬂuid temperature increases. DO NOT ﬁll above the COLD CHECK band if the transmission ﬂuid is below normal operating temperatures. 1. Pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel. 2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and then pull it back out again. 5-31 (cid:127) 3. Check the ﬂuid level reading. Repeat the check procedure to verify the reading. 4. If the ﬂuid level is within the COLD CHECK band, the transmission may be operated until the ﬂuid is hot enough to perform a hot check. If the ﬂuid level is not within the COLD CHECK band, add or drain ﬂuid as necessary to bring the level into the middle of the COLD CHECK band. 5. Perform a hot check at the ﬁrst opportunity after the normal operating temperature of 160°F (71°C) to 200°F (93°C) is reached. 6. If the ﬂuid level is in the acceptable range, push the dipstick back in all the way. Hot Check Procedure The ﬂuid must be hot to ensure an accurate check. The ﬂuid level rises as temperature increases. 1. Operate the transmission in DRIVE (D) range until the normal operating temperature of 160°F (71°C) to 200°F (93°C) is reached. 2. Pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel. 3. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and then pull it back out again. Repeat the check procedure to verify the reading. 4. Safe operating level is within the HOT RUN band on the dipstick. The width of the HOT RUN band represents approximately 1.06 quart (1.0 liter) of ﬂuid at normal operating temperature. 5. If the ﬂuid level is not within the HOT RUN band, add or drain ﬂuid as necessary to bring the ﬂuid level to within the HOT RUN band. 6. If the ﬂuid level is in the acceptable range, push the dipstick back in all the way. Consistency of Readings Always check the ﬂuid level at least twice using the procedures described previously. Consistency (repeatable readings) is important to maintaining proper ﬂuid level. If inconsistent readings persist, check the transmission breather to be sure it is clean and unclogged. If readings are still inconsistent, contact your dealer. 5-32 How to Add Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transmission ﬂuid to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13. Add ﬂuid only after checking the transmission ﬂuid while it is hot. A cold check is used only as a reference. If the ﬂuid level is low, add only enough of the proper ﬂuid to bring the level up to the HOT area for a hot check. It does not take much ﬂuid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Do not overﬁll. Notice: Use of automatic transmission ﬂuid labeled other than DEXRON®-III, Approved for the H-Speciﬁcation, may damage your vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use automatic transmission ﬂuid labeled DEXRON®-III, Approved for the H-Speciﬁcation. (cid:127) After adding ﬂuid, recheck the ﬂuid level as described under “How to Check,” earlier in this section. (cid:127) When the correct ﬂuid level is obtained, push the dipstick back in all the way. Manual Transmission Fluid When to Check A good time to have it checked is when the engine oil is changed. See your maintenance schedule to ﬁnd out when to change your transmission ﬂuid. How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at your GM dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading. Notice: Too much or too little ﬂuid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the ﬂuid could come out and fall on hot engine part or exhaust system parts, starting a ﬁre. Too little ﬂuid could cause the transmission to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission ﬂuid. Check the ﬂuid level only when your engine is off, the vehicle is parked on a level place and the transmission is cool enough for you to rest your ﬁngers on the transmission case. 5-33 Then, follow these steps: 5-speed for VORTEC™ 4300 V6 and 4800 V8 Engines Shown, Other Manual Transmissions Similar 1. Remove the ﬁller plug. 2. Check that the lubricant level is up to the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole. 3. If the ﬂuid level is good, install the plug and be sure it is fully seated. If the ﬂuid level is low, add more ﬂuid as described in the next steps. 5-34 How to Add Fluid Here is how to add ﬂuid. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of ﬂuid to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13. 1. Remove the ﬁller plug. 2. Add ﬂuid at the ﬁller plug hole. Add only enough ﬂuid to bring the ﬂuid level up to the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole. 3. Install the ﬁller plug. Be sure the plug is fully seated. Hydraulic Clutch The hydraulic clutch linkage in your vehicle is self-adjusting. The clutch master cylinder reservoir is ﬁlled with hydraulic clutch ﬂuid. It is not necessary to regularly check clutch ﬂuid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system. Adding ﬂuid will not correct a leak. A ﬂuid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. When to Check and What to Use The clutch master cylinder reservoir is located in the rear of the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for more information on location. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often you should check the ﬂuid level in your clutch master cylinder reservoir and for the proper ﬂuid. See Owner Checks and Services on page 6-10 and Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13. How to Check and Add Fluid The proper ﬂuid should be added if the level does not reach the bottom of the diaphragm when it is in place in the reservoir. See the instructions on the reservoir cap. Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is ﬁlled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for ﬁve years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs ﬁrst, if you add only DEX-COOL® extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating on page 5-38. A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant will: (cid:127) Give freezing protection down to −34°F (−37°C). (cid:127) Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C). (cid:127) Protect against rust and corrosion. (cid:127) Help keep the proper engine temperature. Let the warning lights and gages work as they should. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs ﬁrst. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle. 5-35 (cid:127) If you use an improper coolant mixture, Notice: your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system. Notice: have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful. If you use the proper coolant, you do not What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL® coolant which will not damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you do not need to add anything else. {CAUTION: Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch ﬁre and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant. 5-36 Checking Coolant The coolant surge tank is located in the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for more information on location. Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture at the surge tank, but only when the engine is cool. {CAUTION: You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine. When replacing the pressure cap, make sure it is hand-tight. {CAUTION: Turning the surge tank pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. Never turn the surge tank pressure cap — even a little — when the engine and radiator are hot. The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the FULL COLD mark. If your vehicle is equipped with a low coolant sensor, and the LOW COOLANT LEVEL message comes on and stays on, it means you are low on engine coolant. See “LOW COOLANT LEVEL” under DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-54. 5-37 Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap The coolant surge tank pressure cap must be fully installed on the coolant surge tank. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for more information on location. Notice: coolant loss and possible engine damage may occur. Be sure the cap is properly and tightly secured. If the pressure cap is not tightly installed, Engine Overheating You will ﬁnd a coolant temperature gage on your vehicle’s instrument panel. See Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 3-42. In addition, you will ﬁnd an ENGINE OVERHEATED and a REDUCED ENGINE POWER message in the Driver Information Center (DIC) on the instrument panel. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-54. If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine {CAUTION: Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch ﬁre. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode (V8 Engines Only) on page 5-40 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency. 5-38 If your engine catches ﬁre because you Notice: keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode (V8 Engines Only) on page 5-40 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency. If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine An overheat warning, along with a low coolant condition, can indicate a serious problem. If you get an engine overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: (cid:127) Climb a long hill on a hot day. (cid:127) Stop after high-speed driving. Idle for long periods in traffic. Tow a trailer. See Towing a Trailer on page 4-69. If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. If your air conditioner is on, turn it off. 2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan speed and open the windows as necessary. 3. If you are in a traffic jam, shift to NEUTRAL (N); otherwise, shift to the highest gear while driving — DRIVE (D) or THIRD (3). If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning does not come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there is still no sign of steam and your vehicle is equipped with an engine-driven cooling fan, push down the accelerator until the engine speed is about twice as fast as normal idle speed for at least three minutes while you are parked. If there is still no sign of steam and your vehicle is equipped with an electric engine cooling fan, idle the engine for three minutes while you are parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. Also, see “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” later in this section. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away. 5-39 (cid:127) (cid:127) Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode (V8 Engines Only) If an overheated engine condition exists and the REDUCED ENGINE POWER message is displayed, an overheat protection mode which alternates ﬁring groups of cylinders helps prevent engine damage. In this mode, you will notice a loss in power and engine performance. This operating mode allows your vehicle to be driven to a safe place in an emergency. Driving extended miles (km) and/or towing a trailer in the overheat protection mode should be avoided. Notice: After driving in the overheated engine protection operating mode, to avoid engine damage, allow the engine to cool before attempting any repair. The engine oil will be severely degraded. Repair the cause of coolant loss, change the oil and reset the oil life system. See Engine Oil (Gasoline Engine) on page 5-20. 5-40 Cooling System When you decide it is safe to lift the hood, here is what you will see: 8100 V8 Engines A. Coolant Surge Tank B. Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap C. Engine-Driven Cooling Fan All Other Engines A. Coolant Surge Tank B. Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap C. Electric Engine Cooling Fan (If Equipped) {CAUTION: An electric fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan. If the coolant inside the coolant surge tank is boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface. 5-41 If there seems to be no leak and your vehicle is equipped with an electric engine cooling fan, with the engine on check to see if the cooling fan is running. If it is not, your vehicle needs service. Turn off the engine. If there seems to be no leak and your vehicle is equipped with an engine-driven cooling fan, start the engine again and see if the fan speed increases when idle speed is doubled by pushing the accelerator pedal down. If it does not, your vehicle needs service. Turn off the engine. Notice: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant is not covered by your warranty. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode (V8 Engines Only) on page 5-40 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs ﬁrst. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle. The coolant level should be at or above the FULL COLD mark. If it is not, you may have a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system. {CAUTION: Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine ﬁre, and you could be burned. Get any leak ﬁxed before you drive the vehicle. 5-42 How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Surge Tank for Gasoline Engines If you have not found a problem yet, check to see if coolant is visible in the surge tank. If coolant is visible but the coolant level is not at or above the FULL COLD mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant at the coolant surge tank, but be sure the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is cool before you do it. See Engine Coolant on page 5-35 for more information. If no coolant is visible in the surge tank, add coolant as follows: {CAUTION: Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the coolant surge tank pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and coolant surge tank pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap. 5-43 {CAUTION: {CAUTION: Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch ﬁre and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and a proper coolant. In cold weather, water can freeze and crack Notice: the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture. You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine. 1. You can remove the coolant surge tank pressure cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise (left) about one full turn. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left. 2. Then keep turning the pressure cap slowly, and remove it. 5-44 3. Fill the coolant surge tank with the proper mixture, to the FULL COLD mark. 4. With the coolant surge tank pressure cap off, start the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fan. By this time, the coolant level inside the coolant surge tank may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper mixture to the coolant surge tank until the level reaches the FULL COLD mark. 5. Then replace the pressure cap. Be sure the pressure cap is hand-tight and fully seated. 5-45 Power Steering Fluid 8100 V8 engine Engine Fan Noise If your vehicle is equipped with a clutched engine cooling fan, when the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide more air to cool the engine. In most everyday driving conditions, the fan is spinning slower and the clutch is not fully engaged. This improves fuel economy and reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing, and/or high outside temperatures, the fan speed increases as the clutch more fully engages, so you may hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and should not be mistaken as the transmission slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system functioning properly. The fan will slow down when additional cooling is not required and the clutch disengages. You may also hear this fan noise when you start the engine. It will go away as the fan clutch partially disengages. If your vehicle is equipped with electric cooling fans, you may hear the fans spinning at low speed during most everyday driving. The fans may turn off if no cooling is required. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing, and/or high outside temperatures, or if you are operating your air conditioning system, the fans change to high speed and you may hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and indicates that the cooling system is functioning properly. The fans will change to low speed when additional cooling is no longer required. 5-46 All other engines See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for reservoir location. When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering ﬂuid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A ﬂuid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. How to Check Power Steering Fluid Locate the cap with this symbol. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for more information on location. 5-47 To check the power steering ﬂuid, do the following: 1. Turn the key off and let the engine compartment cool down. 2. Wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean. 3. Unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. 4. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. 5. Remove the cap again and look at the ﬂuid level on the dipstick. The level should be at the FULL COLD mark. If necessary, add only enough ﬂuid to bring the level up to the mark. What to Use To determine what kind of ﬂuid to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13. Always use the proper ﬂuid. Failure to use the proper ﬂuid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals. Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer ﬂuid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a ﬂuid that has sufficient protection against freezing. Adding Washer Fluid Your vehicle has a low washer ﬂuid message that comes on when the washer ﬂuid is low. The message is displayed for 15 seconds at the start of each ignition cycle. When the CHECK WASHER FLUID message is displayed, you will need to add washer ﬂuid to the windshield washer ﬂuid reservoir. Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer ﬂuid until the tank is full. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for reservoir location. 5-48 Notice: (cid:127) When using concentrated washer ﬂuid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water. (cid:127) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer ﬂuid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer ﬂuid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer ﬂuid. Fill your washer ﬂuid tank only three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full. (cid:127) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint. Brakes Brake Fluid Your brake master cylinder reservoir is ﬁlled with DOT-3 brake ﬂuid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for the location of the reservoir. There are only two reasons why the brake ﬂuid level in the reservoir might go down. The ﬁrst is that the brake ﬂuid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the ﬂuid level goes back up. The other reason is that ﬂuid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system ﬁxed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes will not work well, or will not work at all. 5-49 (cid:127) So, it is not a good idea to top off your brake ﬂuid. Adding brake ﬂuid will not correct a leak. If you add ﬂuid when your linings are worn, then you will have too much ﬂuid when you get new brake linings. You should add or remove brake ﬂuid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. {CAUTION: If you have too much brake ﬂuid, it can spill on the engine. The ﬂuid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake ﬂuid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. See “Checking Brake Fluid” in this section. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to check your brake ﬂuid. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4. Checking Brake Fluid You can check the brake ﬂuid without taking off the cap. Just look at the brake ﬂuid reservoir. The ﬂuid level should be above MIN. If it is not, have your brake system checked to see if there is a leak. After work is done on the brake hydraulic system, make sure the level is above the MIN but not over the MAX mark. 5-50 What to Add When you do need brake ﬂuid, use only DOT-3 brake ﬂuid. Use new brake ﬂuid from a sealed container only. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13. Always clean the brake ﬂuid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir. {CAUTION: With the wrong kind of ﬂuid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake ﬂuid. Notice: (cid:127) Using the wrong ﬂuid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of ﬂuid. If you spill brake ﬂuid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint ﬁnish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake ﬂuid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Appearance Care on page 5-118. 5-51 (cid:127) Brake Wear Your vehicle has front disc brakes and may have rear drum brakes or rear disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving, except when you are pushing on the brake pedal ﬁrmly. {CAUTION: The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced. Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair. Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are ﬁrst applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. 5-52 Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM torque speciﬁcations. If you have rear drum brakes, they do not have wear indicators, but if you ever hear a rear brake rubbing noise, have the rear brake linings inspected immediately. Rear brake drums should be removed and inspected each time the tires are removed for rotation or changing. Drum brakes have an inspection hole to inspect lining wear during scheduled maintenance. When you have the front brake pads replaced, have the rear brakes inspected, too. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you make a brake stop, your brakes adjust for wear. Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system — for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you do not, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance you have come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts. Battery Your vehicle has a maintenance free battery. When it is time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco® replacement battery. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for battery location. Warning: Battery posts, terminals and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling. Vehicle Storage If you are not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down. {CAUTION: Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 5-54 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt. Also, for your audio system, see Theft-Deterrent Feature on page 3-123. 5-53 Jump Starting If your battery (or batteries) has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely. {CAUTION: Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because: (cid:127) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:127) They contain gas that can explode or (cid:127) They contain enough electricity to ignite. burn you. If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you. Ignoring these steps could result in costly Notice: damage to your vehicle that would not be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage your vehicle. 5-54 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt battery with a negative ground system. If the other vehicle’s system is not a 12-volt Notice: system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. If you have a vehicle with a diesel engine with two batteries (or more), you should know before you begin that, especially in cold weather, you may not be able to get enough power from a single battery in another vehicle to start your diesel engine. If your vehicle has more than one battery, use the battery that is closer to the starter — this will reduce electrical resistance. 3. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake ﬁrmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transmission in PARK (P) or a manual transmission in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear, not in NEUTRAL. If you leave your radio or other accessories Notice: on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and other accessories when jump starting your vehicle. 4. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or accessory power outlets. Turn off the radio and all lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save the radio! 5. Open the hoods and locate the positive (+) and negative (−) terminal locations of the other vehicle. Your vehicle has a remote positive (+) jump starting terminal and a remote negative (−) jump starting terminal. You should always use these remote terminals instead of the terminals on the battery. The remote positive (+) terminal is located behind a red plastic cover, if equipped, near the engine accessory drive bracket. To uncover the remote positive (+) terminal, open the red plastic cover, if equipped. The remote negative (−) terminal is located on the engine drive bracket on all V8 and diesel engines, and on the thermostat housing on the 8.1L engine. On V8 engines it is marked GND. On V6 engines the remote negative (−) terminal is located on a tab attached to the engine accessory drive bracket where it is marked GND. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for more information on the location of the remote positive (+) and remote negative (−) terminals. {CAUTION: Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a ﬂashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has ﬁller caps, be sure the right amount of ﬂuid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that ﬁrst. If you do not, explosive gas could be present. Battery ﬂuid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, ﬂush the place with water and get medical help immediately. 5-55 7. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the vehicle with the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. 8. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. {CAUTION: Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running. 6. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or a remote positive terminal (+) if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks. On vehicles equipped with dual batteries, make all battery connections to the remote positive (+) and remote negative (−) terminals. 5-56 9. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. The vehicle’s remote negative (–) terminal is marked GND. 10. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy unpainted metal engine part of the vehicle with the dead battery, or to a remote negative (–) terminal if the vehicle has one. 11. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable to the remote negative (−) terminal, marked GND, on the vehicle with the dead battery. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for the location of your vehicle’s remote negative (−) terminal. V8 engine shown, other engines similar 12. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run the engine for a while. 13. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery. If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service. 5-57 If the jumper cables are removed in the Notice: wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal. Jumper Cable Removal A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or Remote Negative (−) Terminal B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and Remote Negative (−) Terminals C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal 5-58 To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the vehicle that had the bad battery. 2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the vehicle with the good battery. 3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the vehicle with the good battery. 4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other vehicle. 5. Return the positive (+) remote terminal cover, if equipped, to its original position. All-Wheel Drive Lubricant checks in this section also apply to these vehicles. There are two additional systems that need lubrication. Transfer Case When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4. How to Check Lubricant All-Wheel Drive Transfer Case A. Fill Plug B. Drain Plug To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. If the level is below the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole, located on the all-wheel drive transfer case, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole. Use care not to overtighten the plug. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13. 5-59 Rear Axle When to Check Lubricant It is not necessary to regularly check rear axle ﬂuid unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an unusual noise. A ﬂuid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired. How to Check Lubricant 1500 Series Shown, 2500 Series Similar 5-60 To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. The proper level for the 1500 Series is from 5/8 inch to 1 5/8 inch (15 mm to 40 mm) below the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole. The proper level for the 1500HD Series, 2500 Series, 2500HD, and 3500 Series is from 0 to 1/2 inch (0 to 13 mm) below the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole. The proper level for the 1500 and 2500 Series vehicles with QUADRASTEER™ (4-Wheel Steer) is from 0 to 1/4 inch (0 to 6 mm) below the ﬁller plug hole. Add only enough ﬂuid to reach the proper level. What to Use To determine what kind of lubricant to use see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13. Four-Wheel Drive Lubricant checks in this section also apply to these vehicles. There are two additional systems that need lubrication. (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) Transfer Case When to Check Lubricant It is not necessary to regularly check transfer case ﬂuid unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an unusual noise. A ﬂuid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired. How to Check Lubricant Manual Transfer Case Automatic Transfer Case To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. If the level is below the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole, located on the transfer case, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole. Use care not to overtighten the plug. 5-61 How to Check Lubricant When to Change Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to change the lubricant. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13. Front Axle When to Check Lubricant It is not necessary to regularly check front axle ﬂuid unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an unusual noise. A ﬂuid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired. To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. 5-62 If the level is below the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole, located on the front axle, you may need to add some lubricant: (cid:127) When the differential is cold, add enough lubricant to raise the level to 0 to 3/8 inch (9.5 mm) below the ﬁller plug hole. (cid:127) When the differential is at operating temperature (warm), add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole. What to Use To determine what kind of lubricant to use see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13. Noise Control System Tampering with Noise Control System Prohibited The following information relates to compliance with federal noise emission standards for vehicles with a Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) of more than 10,000 lbs (4 536 kg). The Maintenance Schedule provides information on maintaining the noise control system to minimize degradation of the noise emission control system during the life of your vehicle. The noise control system warranty is given in your warranty booklet. These standards apply only to vehicles sold in the United States. 5-63 Fan and Drive: (cid:127) Removal of fan clutch (if equipped) or rendering clutch inoperative. (cid:127) Removal of the fan shroud (if equipped). Air Intake: (cid:127) Removal of the air cleaner silencer. (cid:127) Modiﬁcation of the air cleaner. Exhaust: (cid:127) Removal of the muffler and/or resonator. (cid:127) Removal of the exhaust pipes and exhaust pipe clamps. Federal law prohibits the following acts or the causing thereof: 1. The removal or rendering inoperative by any person, other than for purposes of maintenance, repair or replacement, of any device or element of design incorporated into any new vehicle for the purpose of noise control, prior to its sale or delivery to the ultimate purchaser or while it is in use; or 2. The use of the vehicle after such device or element of design has been removed or rendered inoperative by any person. Among those acts presumed to constitute tampering are the acts listed below. Insulation: (cid:127) Removal of the noise shields or any underhood insulation. Engine: (cid:127) Removal or rendering engine speed governor (if equipped) inoperative so as to allow engine speed to exceed manufacturer speciﬁcations. 5-64 Bulb Replacement For the proper type of replacement bulbs, see Replacement Bulbs on page 5-74. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer. Halogen Bulbs {CAUTION: Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package. Headlamps To replace a headlamp bulb, do the following: 1. If your vehicle is equipped with two pins, remove the two pins on the top of the headlamp assembly. To remove the pins, turn the outer pin outward and pull it straight up. To remove the inner pin, turn it in and pull it straight up. 5-65 If your vehicle has one pin on the headlamp assembly, remove the pin. To remove the pin, turn the pin up and pull it out straight out. 5-66 A. Low-Beam Headlamp B. High-Beam Headlamp 2. Pull the headlamp assembly out. 3. Unplug the electrical connector. 4. Turn the old bulb counterclockwise and remove it from the headlamp assembly. 5. Put the new bulb into the assembly and turn it clockwise until it is tight. Use care not to touch the bulb with your ﬁngers or hands. 6. Plug in the electrical connector. 7. Put the headlamp assembly back into the vehicle. 8. Install and tighten the two pins. If your vehicle has one pin, install it and turn it into the locking feature. Front Turn Signal, Sidemarker and Daytime Running Lamps A. Sidemarker Lamp B. Retainer Clip C. Front Turn Signal Lamp D. Daytime Running Lamp (DRL) To replace a front turn signal, sidemarker or DRL bulb, do the following: 1. Remove the headlamp assembly as described previously. See Headlamps on page 5-65 for more information. 2. Press the retainer clip (B), located behind the turn signal housing, towards the outside of the vehicle. 3. Pull the turn signal housing out of the vehicle. 4. Press the locking release lever, turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and remove it from the turn signal housing. 5. Remove the old bulb from the bulb socket. 5-67 6. Put a new bulb into the bulb socket. Use care not to touch the bulb with your ﬁngers or hands. 7. Put the bulb socket back into the turn signal housing and turn it clockwise until it locks. 8. Put the turn signal housing back into the vehicle placing the hook and posts on the inner side into the alignment holes ﬁrst, then the outer side into the retainer bracket until you hear a click. 9. Put the headlamp assembly back into the vehicle. Roof Marker Lamps To replace a roof marker lamp bulb, do the following: 1. Remove the two screws and lift off the lens. 2. Remove the six screws on the center roof marker lamps. 3. Turn the old bulb counterclockwise to remove it from the socket. 5-68 4. Put a new bulb into the socket and turn clockwise until it locks in place. 5. Reinstall the lens and tighten the screws. 5-69 Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) and Cargo Lamp To replace a center high-mounted stoplamp (CHMSL) bulb, do the following: 1. Remove the screws and lift off the lamp assembly. A. Cargo Lamps B. Center High-Mounted Stoplamps 2. Remove the CHMSL bulb holder back plate from the housing by pressing the release tabs. 3. Remove the CHMSL bulb by pulling the bulb straight out from the holder back plate. Remove a cargo bulb by turning the socket counterclockwise and pulling the bulb straight out. 5-70 4. If a CHMSL bulb is replaced, put the new bulb into

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2005 Chevrolet Silverado Owners Manual