2007 Chevrolet Monte Carlo Owners Manual

Notice: Use of the incorrect automatic transaxle fluid may damage your vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use the automatic transaxle fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 415. 3. After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as described under “How to Check Automatic Transaxle Fluid,” earlier in this section.

4. When the correct fluid level is obtained, push

the dipstick back in all the way.

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Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for five years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if you add only DEX-COOL® extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating or if you need to add coolant to the radiator, see Engine Overheating on page 323. A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant will: (cid:127) Give freezing protection down to −34°F (−37°C). (cid:127) Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C). (cid:127) Protect against rust and corrosion. (cid:127) Help keep the proper engine temperature. (cid:127) Let the warning lights and gages work as they

should.

Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at the first maintenance service after each 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle. What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL® coolant which will not damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you do not need to add anything else.

{CAUTION:

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With

CAUTION:

(Continued)

CAUTION:

(Continued)

plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.

If you use an improper coolant

Notice: mixture, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core, and other parts. If coolant needs to be added more than four times a year, have your dealer check the cooling system. Notice: If you use extra inhibitors and/or additives in your vehicle’s cooling system, you could damage your vehicle. Use only the proper mixture of the engine coolant listed in this manual for the cooling system. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 415 for more information.

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Checking Coolant

The coolant recovery tank cap has this symbol on it.

See Engine Compartment Overview on page 308
for more information on the location of the coolant recovery tank. The vehicle must be on a level surface when checking the coolant level. When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the cold fill line or a little higher. The cold fill line is marked with the same symbol as the coolant recovery tank cap.

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Adding Coolant If more coolant is needed, add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture at the coolant recovery tank, but be careful not to spill it. If the coolant recovery tank is completely empty, add coolant to the cooling system through the coolant fill neck on the engine. See Engine Overheating on page 323.

{CAUTION:

Turning the radiator pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. With the coolant recovery tank, you will almost never have to add coolant at the radiator. Never turn the radiator pressure cap — even a little — when the engine and radiator are hot.

Engine Overheating There is a coolant temperature gage and a warning light on the instrument panel that indicate an overheated engine condition. See Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 180
and Engine Coolant Temperature Warning Light on page 179. In addition, you will find an ENGINE OVERHEATED IDLE ENGINE and an ENGINE OVERHEATED STOP ENGINE message displayed on the vehicle’s Driver Information Center (DIC). See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 195 for more information.

{CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.

Occasionally check the coolant level in the radiator. For information on how to add coolant to the radiator, see Cooling System on page 326. Pressure Cap Notice: installed, coolant loss and possible engine damage may occur. Be sure the cap is properly and tightly secured. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 308
for more information on location.

If the pressure cap is not tightly

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If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine

{CAUTION:

Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when the vehicles engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 325 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency.

324

If your engine catches fire because

Notice: you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 325 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency. If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine An overheat warning can indicate a serious problem. If you get an engine overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: (cid:127) Climb a long hill on a hot day. (cid:127) Stop after high-speed driving. (cid:127) Idle for long periods in traffic. (cid:127) Tow a trailer.

If an overheat warning occurs without any sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in

NEUTRAL (N) while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) and let the engine idle.

2. Set the heater at the highest setting and the

fan at the highest speed and open the windows as necessary.

If the overheat warning no longer exists, the vehicle can be driven. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning does not come back on, the vehicle can be driven normally. If the warning continues, and you have not stopped, pull over, stop, and park the vehicle right away. If there is still no sign of steam, idle the engine for three minutes while parked. If the warning is still there, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. Also, see “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” later in this section. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.

Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode This emergency operating mode allows your vehicle to be driven to a safe place in an emergency situation. If an overheated engine condition exists, an overheat protection mode which alternates firing groups of cylinders helps prevent engine damage. In this mode, you will notice a significant loss in power and engine performance. The coolant temperature gage will indicate an overheat condition exists. Driving extended miles (km) and/or towing a trailer in the overheat protection mode should be avoided. Notice: After driving in the overheated engine protection operating mode, to avoid engine damage, allow the engine to cool before attempting any repair. The engine oil will be severely degraded. Repair the cause of coolant loss, change the oil and reset the oil life system. See Engine Oil on page 311.

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Cooling System When you decide it is safe to lift the hood, this is what you will see:

5.3L V8 Engine

A. Pressure Cap B. Electric Engine Cooling Fans C. Coolant Recovery Tank

3.5L V6 Engine

A. Coolant Recovery Tank B. Pressure Cap C. Electric Engine Cooling Fans

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{CAUTION:

An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be at or above the cold fill line on the coolant recovery tank. To check the coolant level, look for the cold fill line on the side of the coolant recovery tank that faces the engine. If the level is not correct, there may be a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump, or somewhere else in the cooling system.

If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface. If your vehicle has the 3.5L V6 engine, the coolant recovery tank is located in the rear of the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. If your vehicle has the 5.3L V8 engine, the coolant recovery tank is located in the rear of the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 308.

{CAUTION:

Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.

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If there seems to be no leak, with the engine on, check to see if the electric engine cooling fans are running. If the engine is overheating, the fans should be running. If the fans are not running, your vehicle needs service. Notice: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant is not covered by your warranty. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 325 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant could require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle.

How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Recovery Tank

{CAUTION:

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.

328

If you have not found a problem yet, but the coolant level is not at the cold fill line, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® engine coolant at the coolant recovery tank. See Engine Coolant on page 320
for more information. Notice: crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture.

In cold weather, water can freeze and

{CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.

When the coolant level in the coolant recovery tank is at the cold fill line, start the vehicle.

If the overheat warning continues, there is one more thing you can try. Add the proper coolant mixture directly to the cooling system through the coolant fill neck on the engine, but be sure the system is cool before you do it.

{CAUTION:

Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the radiator pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and radiator pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.

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How to Add Coolant to the Cooling System Notice: Your engine has a specific cooling system drain and fill procedure. Failure to follow this procedure could cause your engine to overheat and be severely damaged. If your engine’s cooling system needs to be drained and re-filled, please see your dealer.

1. Remove the pressure cap when the cooling system, including the pressure cap and upper radiator hose is no longer hot.

Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means that there is still some pressure left.

2. Then keep turning the pressure cap and

remove it.

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{CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.

3. Fill the cooling system with the proper

DEX-COOL® coolant mixture, up to the base of the filler neck. See Engine Coolant on page 320 for more information about the proper coolant mixture.

4. Rinse or wipe any spilled coolant from the

engine and the compartment.

5. Then fill the coolant recovery tank to the cold

fill line.

6. Install the coolant recovery tank cap and the

pressure cap. After a day or two of driving, when the engine is cold, check the coolant level in the recovery tank. If it is low, refill it to the cold fill line.

If the coolant in the recovery tank is constantly low, you should have a dealership service department inspect the vehicle for leaks.

Power Steering Fluid

The power steering fluid reservoir is located toward the rear of the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 308
for reservoir location.

When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.

How to Check Power Steering Fluid To check the power steering fluid, do the following: 1. Turn the key off and let the engine

compartment cool down.

2. Wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean. 3. Unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with

a clean rag.

4. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. 5. Remove the cap again and look at the

fluid level on the dipstick.

The fluid level should be somewhere within the cross-hatched area on the dipstick. If the fluid is at the ADD mark, you should add fluid. What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 415. Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.

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Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing. Adding Washer Fluid A WASHER FLUID LOW ADD FLUID message will be displayed on the Driver Information Center (DIC) when you need to add windshield washer fluid to your vehicle. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 195 for more information.

Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer fluid until the tank is full.

Notice: (cid:127) When using concentrated washer fluid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.

(cid:127) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer

fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer fluid.

(cid:127) Fill your washer fluid tank only

three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.

(cid:127) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in

your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.

See Engine Compartment Overview on page 308
for more information on location.

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Brakes Brake Fluid

Your brake master cylinder reservoir is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 308 for the location of the reservoir.

There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes will not work well, or will not work at all.

So, it is not a good idea to top off your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid will not correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you will have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add or remove brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

{CAUTION:

If your vehicle has too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

When your brake fluid falls to a low level, your brake warning light will come on. See Brake System Warning Light on page 177.

333

What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3
brake fluid. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 415. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.

{CAUTION:

With the wrong kind of fluid in the brake system, the brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.

Notice: (cid:127) Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in the brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 389.

(cid:127)

Brake Wear Your vehicle has four-wheel disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving, except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly.

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{CAUTION:

The brake wear warning sound means that soon the brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.

Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair. Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM torque specifications. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets.

Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you apply the brakes, with or without the vehicle moving, your brakes adjust for wear. Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system — for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you do not, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance you have come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.

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Battery Your vehicle has a maintenance free battery. When it is time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco® replacement battery. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 308 for battery location. Warning: Battery posts, terminals, and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling.

Vehicle Storage If you are not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.

{CAUTION:

Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 337 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.

336

Jump Starting If your vehicle’s battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely.

{CAUTION:

Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:

(cid:127) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:127) They contain gas that can explode

(cid:127) They contain enough electricity to

or ignite.

burn you.

If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.

Ignoring these steps could result in

Notice: costly damage to your vehicle that would not be covered by your warranty.

Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage your vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a

12-volt battery with a negative ground system.

If the other vehicle’s system is not

Notice: a 12-volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper

cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transaxle in PARK (P) or a manual transaxle in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake.

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To uncover the remote positive (+) terminal, remove the fuse block cover. You should always use the remote positive (+) terminal instead of the positive (+) terminal on the battery.

{CAUTION:

An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

Notice: If you leave your radio or other accessories on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and other accessories when jump starting your vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles.

Unplug unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or the accessory power outlets. Turn off the radio and all lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save the radio!

4. Open the hoods and locate the batteries.

Find the positive (+) and negative (−) terminal locations on each vehicle. You will not need to access your battery for jump starting. Your vehicle has a remote positive (+) jump starting terminal for that purpose. The remote positive (+) terminal is located in the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle, on the underhood fuse block. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 308 for more information on location.

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{CAUTION:

{CAUTION:

Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you do not, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.

Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.

5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−), or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks.

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6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the

positive (+) terminal location of the vehicle with the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect

it to the positive (+) terminal location of the vehicle with the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. 8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal location of the vehicle with the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.

9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable at least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less.

10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery

and run the engine for a while.

11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead

battery. If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service.

If the jumper cables are connected

Notice: or removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always connect and remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal.

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To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from

the vehicle that had the dead battery.

2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from

the vehicle with the good battery.

3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the

other vehicle.

5. Return the fuse block cover to its original

position.

Jumper Cable Removal

A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or

Remote Negative (−) Terminal

B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal

and Remote Negative (−) Terminals

C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal

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Headlamp Aiming Headlamp aim has been preset at the factory and should need no further adjustment. However, if your vehicle is damaged in an accident, the headlamp aim may be affected. Aim adjustment to the low-beam headlamps may be necessary if it is difficult to see the lane markers (for horizontal aim), or if oncoming drivers flash their high-beam headlamps at you (for vertical aim). If you believe your headlamps need to be re-aimed, it is recommend that you take the vehicle to your dealer for service.

Bulb Replacement For the proper type of replacement bulbs, see Replacement Bulbs on page 346. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer.

Halogen Bulbs

{CAUTION:

Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.

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Headlamps, Front Turn Signal, Sidemarker, and Parking Lamps

2. Remove the screw from the headlamp

assembly.

A. Sidemarker B. Low-Beam Headlamp

C. High-Beam Headlamp D. Parking/Turn Signal Lamp

To replace one of these bulbs, do the following: 1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on page 307 for more information.

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8. Install the electrical connector to the bulb. 9. Install the new bulb by inserting the smallest

tab on the bulb base into the matching notch in the retaining ring. Turn the bulb a quarter-turn clockwise until it stops.

10. Reverse Steps 1 through 5 to reinstall the

headlamp assembly.

When you reinstall the headlamp assembly, make sure to line up the pin in the headlamp assembly with the slot in the vehicle.

3. Remove the headlamp plastic retainer by

pulling it up.

4. Pull the headlamp assembly away from the vehicle and remove the electrical connector. 5. Remove the round dust caps to gain access

to the bulbs.

6. Turn the old bulb counterclockwise and

remove it from the retaining ring by pulling it away from the headlamp.

7. Remove the electrical connector from the bulb by raising the lock tab and pulling the connector away from the bulb’s base.

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Taillamps, Stoplamps and Back-up Lamps

A. Rear Sidemarker

Lamp

B. Taillamp/Turn Signal

and Stoplamp

C. Taillamp

5. Pull the assembly from the vehicle. 6. Remove the bulb socket. To do so, press the

tab, turn it counterclockwise and pull it out.

7. Pull the old bulb straight out. 8. Push the new bulb into the bulb socket. 9. Reverse Steps 1 through 5 to reinstall the

taillamp assembly.

Back-Up Lamps The back-up lamps are located in the rear bumper.

To replace one of these bulbs, do the following: 1. Open the trunk. See Trunk on page 101

for more information.

2. Remove the convenience net, if your vehicle

has one, and then remove it by unhooking the upper wing nut.

3. Pull the carpet away from the rear of the

vehicle.

1. Remove the two screws from the back-up

lamp assembly.

4. Remove the two remaining wing nuts.

2. Pull the assembly from the rear bumper.

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3. Remove the socket by turning it counterclockwise and pull it out.

4. Pull the old bulb straight out. 5. Push the new bulb into the socket. 6. Push the socket back into the assembly.

Tighten the socket by turning it clockwise.

7. Reinstall the assembly with the two screws.

License Plate Lamp To replace one of these bulbs, do the following: 1. Turn the lamp assembly counterclockwise and

pull the lamp assembly out of the connector.

2. Pull the old bulb from the lamp assembly, keeping the bulb straight as you pull it out.

3. Install the new bulb. 4. Reverse Steps 1 through 3 to reinstall the

license plate lamp.

Replacement Bulbs

Exterior Lamp

Bulb Number

Back-Up Lamp

921

Front Parking/Turn Signal Lamp

3157NAK

License Plate Lamp

Headlamps

High-Beam

Low-Beam

Sidemarker Lamp

Stoplamps, Taillamps, and Turn Signal Lamp

194

H9

H11

194

3057

For replacement bulbs not listed here, contact your dealer.

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Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected for wear or cracking. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 406 for more information on wiper blade inspection. Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. Here’s how to remove the wiper blade: 1. Pull the windshield wiper arm connector away

from the windshield.

2. While holding the wiper arm, pull the clip up from the blade connecting point, and pull the blade assembly down toward the windshield to remove it from the wiper arm.

3. Install the new wiper blade onto the wiper arm

and snap the clip down into place.

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To remove and replace the wiper blade element do the following: 1. The wiper blade element has two notches at

one end which are engaged by the bottom claw set of the wiper blade. At the notched end of the wiper blade, pull the wiper blade element from the wiper blade assembly.

2. To replace the element, start at the heel end of the wiper blade, which is the end nearest to the base of the wiper arm, and slide the wiper blade element, notched end last, into the wiper blade claw sets.

3. To engage the last claw into the notched end of the wiper blade element, squeeze the wiper blade element at the notched area, and push the wiper blade element so the claw fits into the notch.

4. Be sure the two wiper blade element notches are engaged by the last claw set, and that all the other claws are properly engaged in the slots of the wiper blade element on both sides.

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A. Correct Installation B. Incorrect Installation

For the proper type and size windshield wiper blades, see Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 416.

Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your GM Warranty booklet for details. For additional information refer to the tire manufacturer’s booklet included with your vehicle.

{CAUTION:

Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous.

(cid:127) Overloading your vehicle’s tires can cause overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 277.

CAUTION:

(Continued)

CAUTION:

(Continued)

(cid:127) Underinflated tires pose the same

danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your vehicle’s tires are cold. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 357.

(cid:127) Overinflated tires are more likely to

be cut, punctured, or broken by a sudden impact — such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure.

(cid:127) Worn, old tires can cause accidents.

If the tire’s tread is badly worn, or if your vehicle’s tires have been damaged, replace them.

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Tire Sidewall Labeling Useful information about a tire is molded into its sidewall. The examples below show a typical passenger vehicle tire and a compact spare tire sidewall.

(A) Tire Size: The tire size is a combination of letters and numbers used to define a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type, and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail.

(B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines.

(C) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards.

Passenger (P-Metric) Tire Example

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(D) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT (Department of Transportation) code is the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture.

(E) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread.

(F) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction, and temperature resistance. For more information see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 367.

(G) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load.

Compact Spare Tire Example

(A) Temporary Use Only: The compact spare tire or temporary use tire has a tread life of approximately 3,000 miles (5 000 km) and should not be driven at speeds over 65 mph (105 km/h). The compact spare tire is for emergency use when a regular road tire has lost air and gone flat. If your vehicle has a compact spare tire, see Compact Spare Tire on page 384 and If a Tire Goes Flat on page 371.

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(B) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread.

(C) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following the DOT (Department of Transportation) code is the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture.

(D) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load.

(E) Tire Inflation: The temporary use tire or compact spare tire should be inflated to 60 psi (420 kPa). For more information on tire pressure and inflation see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 357.

(F) Tire Size: A combination of letters and numbers define a tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type, and service description. The letter T as the first character in the tire size means the tire is for temporary use only.

(G) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines.

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Tire Size The following illustration shows an example of a typical passenger vehicle tire size.

(A) Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter P as the first character in the tire size means a passenger vehicle tire engineered to standards set by the U.S. Tire and Rim Association.

(B) Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall.

(C) Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is 60, as shown in item C of the illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is 60 percent as high as it is wide.

(D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter R means radial ply construction; the letter D means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter B means belted-bias ply construction.

(E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches.

(F) Service Description: These characters represent the load range and speed rating of the tire. The load index represents the load carry capacity a tire is certified to carry. The load index can range from 1 to 279. The speed rating is the maximum speed a tire is certified to carry a load. Speed ratings range from A to Z.

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Tire Terminology and Definitions

Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa).

Accessory Weight: This means the combined weight of optional accessories. Some examples of optional accessories are, automatic transmission/transaxle, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air conditioning.

Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire’s height to its width.

Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials.

Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim.

Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the plies are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.

Cold Tire Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up heat from driving. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 357.

Curb Weight: This means the weight of a motor vehicle with standard and optional equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil, and coolant, but without passengers and cargo.

DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identification Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand, and date of production.

GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 277.

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GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front axle. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 277.

GAWR RR: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 277.

Intended Outboard Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire, that must always face outward when mounted on a vehicle.

Kilopascal (kPa): The metric unit for air pressure.

Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: A tire used on light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles.

Load Index: An assigned number ranging from 1 to 279 that corresponds to the load carrying capacity of a tire.

Maximum Inflation Pressure: The maximum air pressure to which a cold tire may be inflated. The maximum air pressure is molded onto the sidewall.

Maximum Load Rating: The load rating for a tire at the maximum permissible inflation pressure for that tire.

Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight: The sum of curb weight, accessory weight, vehicle capacity weight, and production options weight.

Normal Occupant Weight: The number of occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 277.

Occupant Distribution: Designated seating positions.

Outward Facing Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that faces outward when mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears white lettering, or bears manufacturer, brand, and/or model name molding that is higher or deeper than the same moldings on the other sidewall of the tire.

Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: A tire used on passenger cars and some light duty trucks and multipurpose vehicles.

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Recommended Inflation Pressure: Vehicle manufacturer’s recommended tire inflation pressure as shown on the tire placard. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 357 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 277. Radial Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. Rim: A metal support for a tire and upon which the tire beads are seated. Sidewall: The portion of a tire between the tread and the bead. Speed Rating: An alphanumeric code assigned to a tire indicating the maximum speed at which a tire can operate. Traction: The friction between the tire and the road surface. The amount of grip provided. Tread: The portion of a tire that comes into contact with the road.

Treadwear Indicators: Narrow bands, sometimes called wear bars, that show across the tread of a tire when only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) of tread remains. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 364.

356

UTQGS (Uniform Tire Quality Grading Standards): A tire information system that provides consumers with ratings for a tire’s traction, temperature, and treadwear. Ratings are determined by tire manufacturers using government testing procedures. The ratings are molded into the sidewall of the tire. See Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 367.

Vehicle Capacity Weight: The number of designated seating positions multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg) plus the rated cargo load. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 277.

Vehicle Maximum Load on the Tire: Load on an individual tire due to curb weight, accessory weight, occupant weight, and cargo weight.

Vehicle Placard: A label permanently attached to a vehicle showing the vehicle’s capacity weight and the original equipment tire size and recommended inflation pressure. See “Tire and Loading Information Label” under Loading Your Vehicle on page 277.

Inflation - Tire Pressure Tires need the correct amount of air pressure to operate effectively. Notice: Do not let anyone tell you that under-inflation or over-inflation is all right. It is not. If your tires do not have enough air (under-inflation), you can get the following: (cid:127) Too much flexing (cid:127) Too much heat (cid:127) Tire overloading (cid:127) Premature or irregular wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Reduced fuel economy If your tires have too much air (over-inflation), you can get the following: (cid:127) Unusual wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Rough ride (cid:127) Needless damage from road hazards

A Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar). This label shows your vehicle’s original equipment tires and the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they are cold. The recommended cold tire inflation pressure, shown on the label, is the minimum amount of air pressure needed to support your vehicle’s maximum load carrying capacity. For additional information regarding how much weight your vehicle can carry, and an example of the Tire and Loading Information label, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 277. How you load your vehicle affects vehicle handling and ride comfort. Never load your vehicle with more weight than it was designed to carry. When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Do not forget to check the compact spare tire, it should be at 60 psi (420 kPa). For additional information regarding the compact spare tire, see Compact Spare Tire on page 384.

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How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You cannot tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they are under-inflated. Check the tire’s inflation pressure when the tires are cold. Cold means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km). Remove the valve cap from the tire valve stem. Press the tire gage firmly onto the valve to get a pressure measurement. If the cold tire inflation pressure matches the recommended pressure on the Tire and Loading Information label, no further adjustment is necessary. If the inflation pressure is low, add air until you reach the recommended amount. If you overfill the tire, release air by pushing on the metal stem in the center of the tire valve. Re-check the tire pressure with the tire gage. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.

Tire Pressure Monitor System The Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) uses radio and sensor technology to check tire pressure levels. If your vehicle has this feature, sensors are mounted onto each tire and wheel assembly, except for the spare tire. The TPMS sensors monitor the air pressure in your vehicle’s tires and transmit tire pressure readings to a receiver located in the vehicle. When a low tire pressure condition is detected, the TPMS will illuminate the low tire pressure warning symbol on the instrument panel cluster, and at the same time a message to check the pressure in a specific tire will appear on the Driver Information Center (DIC) display. The low tire pressure warning symbol on the instrument panel cluster and the CHECK TIRE PRESSURE message will appear at each ignition cycle until the tires are inflated to the correct inflation pressure. Using the DIC, tire pressure levels can be viewed by the driver. For additional information and details about the DIC operation and displays see DIC Operation and Displays on page 187
and DIC Warnings and Messages on page 195.

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The low tire pressure warning light may come on in cool weather when the vehicle is first started, and then turn off as you start to drive. This may be an early indicator that the air pressure in the tire(s) are getting low and need to be inflated to the proper pressure. Each tire, including the spare (if provided), should be checked monthly when cold and inflated to the inflation pressure recommended by the vehicle manufacturer on the vehicle placard or tire inflation pressure label. (If your vehicle has tires of a different size than the size indicated on the vehicle placard or tire inflation pressure label, you should determine the proper tire inflation pressure for those tires.)

As an added safety feature, your vehicle has been equipped with a tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS) that illuminates a low tire pressure telltale when one or more of your tires is significantly under-inflated.

Accordingly, when the low tire pressure telltale illuminates, you should stop and check your tires as soon as possible, and inflate them to the proper pressure. Driving on a significantly under-inflated tire causes the tire to overheat and can lead to tire failure. Under-inflation also reduces fuel efficiency and tire tread life, and may affect the vehicle’s handling and stopping ability. Please note that the TPMS is not a substitute for proper tire maintenance, and it is the driver’s responsibility to maintain correct tire pressure, even if under-inflation has not reached the level to trigger illumination of the TPMS low tire pressure telltale. Your vehicle has also been equipped with a TPMS malfunction indicator to indicate when the system is not operating properly. The TPMS malfunction indicator is combined with the low tire pressure telltale. When the system detects a malfunction, the telltale will flash for approximately one minute and then remain continuously illuminated. This sequence will continue upon subsequent vehicle start-ups as long as the malfunction exists.

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When the malfunction indicator is illuminated, the system may not be able to detect or signal low tire pressure as intended. TPMS malfunctions may occur for a variety of reasons, including the installation of replacement or alternate tires or wheels on the vehicle that prevent the TPMS from functioning properly. Always check the TPMS malfunction telltale after replacing one or more tires or wheels on your vehicle to ensure that the replacement or alternate tires and wheels allow the TPMS to continue to function properly. A Tire and Loading Information label, attached to your vehicle, shows the size of your vehicle’s original equipment tires and the correct inflation pressure for your vehicle’s tires when they are cold. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 277, for an example of the Tire and Loading Information label and its location on your vehicle. Also see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 357. Your vehicle’s TPMS system can warn you about a low tire pressure condition but it does not replace normal tire maintenance. See Tire Inspection and Rotation on page 362 and Tires on page 349. Notice: Do not use a tire sealant if your vehicle has Tire Pressure Monitors. The liquid sealant can damage the tire pressure monitor sensors.

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The TPMS will not function properly if one or more of the TPMS sensors are missing or inoperable. If the system detects a missing or inoperable sensor, an error message SERVICE TIRE MONITOR SYSTEM will be shown on the DIC display. If you have replaced a tire/wheel assembly without transferring the TPMS sensors, the error message will be displayed. Once you re-install the TPMS sensors, the error message should go off. See your GM dealer for service if all TPMS sensors are installed and the error message comes on and stays on. TPMS Sensor Identification Codes Each TPMS sensor has a unique identification code. Any time you replace one or more of the TPMS sensors or rotate the vehicle’s tires, the identification codes will need to be matched to the new tire/wheel position. The sensors are matched, to the tire/wheel positions, in the following order: driver’s side front tire, passenger’s side front tire, passenger’s side rear tire, and driver’s side rear tire using a TPMS diagnostic tool. See your GM dealer for service.

The TPMS sensors may also be matched to each tire/wheel position by increasing or decreasing the tire’s air pressure. When increasing the tire’s pressure, do not exceed the maximum inflation pressure indicated on the tire’s sidewall. You will have two minutes to match each tire and wheel position. If it takes longer than two minutes to match any tire and wheel position, the matching process stops and you will need to start over. The TPMS matching process is outlined below: 1. Set the parking brake. 2. Turn the ignition switch to RUN with the

engine off.

3. Using the DIC, press the vehicle information

button until the LEARN TIRE POSITIONS message displays.

4. Press the set/reset button to allow the system to learn the tire positions. The horn will sound twice to indicate the receiver is ready, and the TIRE LEARNING ACTIVE message will display. The TPMS system is ready for the sensor matching process to begin.

5. Start with the driver’s side front tire.

6. Remove the valve cap from the tire’s valve

stem. Activate the TPMS sensor by increasing or decreasing the tire’s air pressure for five seconds, or until a horn chirp sounds. The horn chirp, which may take up to 30 seconds to sound, confirms that the sensor identification code has been matched to the tire/wheel position. To decrease the tire’s air-pressure use the pointed end of the valve cap, a pencil-style air pressure gage, or a key.

7. Proceed to the passenger’s side front tire,

and repeat the procedure in Step 6.

8. Proceed to the passenger’s side rear tire,

and repeat the procedure in Step 6.

9. Proceed to the driver’s side rear tire, and

repeat the procedure in Step 6.

10. After hearing the confirming horn chirp for the driver’s side rear tire, the tire learning process ends. Turn the ignition switch to OFF.

11. Set all four tires to the recommended air

pressure level as indicated on the Tire and Loading Information label.

12. Put the valve caps back on the valve stems.

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Tire Inspection and Rotation Tires should be rotated every 5,000 to 8,000 miles (8 000 to 13 000 km). Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 364 and Wheel Replacement on page 368 for more information. The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The first rotation is the most important. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 406 for scheduled rotation intervals.

Federal Communications Commission (FCC) and Industry and Science Canada The Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) operates on a radio frequency and complies with Part 15 of the FCC Rules. Operation is subject to the following two conditions: 1. This device may not cause harmful

interference.

2. This device must accept any interference received, including interference that may cause undesired operation.

The Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) operates on a radio frequency and complies with RSS-210 of Industry and Science Canada. Operation is subject to the following two conditions: 1. This device may not cause interference. 2. This device must accept any interference received, including interference that may cause undesired operation of the device.

Changes or modifications to this system by other than an authorized service facility could void authorization to use this equipment.

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When rotating your tires, always use the correct rotation pattern shown here. Do not include the compact spare tire in your tire rotation. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the Tire and Loading Information label. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 357
and Loading Your Vehicle on page 277. Reset the Tire Pressure Monitor System. See “TPMS Sensor Identification Codes” under Tire Pressure Monitor System on page 358.

Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” under Capacities and Specifications on page 400.

{CAUTION:

Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if needed, to get all the rust or dirt off. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 372.

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When It Is Time for New Tires

One way to tell when it is time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining.

You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true: (cid:127) You can see the indicators at three or more

places around the tire.

(cid:127) You can see cord or fabric showing through

the tire’s rubber.

(cid:127) The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut, or

snagged deep enough to show cord or fabric.

(cid:127) The tire has a bump, bulge, or split. (cid:127) The tire has a puncture, cut, or other damage

that cannot be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage.

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Buying New Tires GM has developed and matched specific tires for your vehicle. The original equipment tires installed on your vehicle, when it was new, were designed to meet General Motors Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC Spec) system rating. If you need replacement tires, GM strongly recommends that you get tires with the same TPC Spec rating. This way, your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give the same performance and vehicle safety, during normal use, as the original tires. GM’s exclusive TPC Spec system considers over a dozen critical specifications that impact the overall performance of your vehicle, including brake system performance, ride and handling, traction control, and tire pressure monitoring performance. GM’s TPC Spec number is molded onto the tire’s sidewall by the tire manufacturer. If the tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC Spec number will be followed by an MS for mud and snow. See Tire Sidewall Labeling on page 350 for additional information.

{CAUTION:

{CAUTION:

Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes, brands, or types (radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes, brands, or types may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the correct size, brand, and type of tires on all wheels. It is all right to drive with your compact spare temporarily, as it was developed for use on your vehicle. See Compact Spare Tire on page 384.

If you use bias-ply tires on your vehicle, the wheel rim flanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle.

If you must replace your vehicle’s tires with those that do not have a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating, and construction type (radial and bias-belted tires) as your vehicle’s original tires. Vehicles that have a tire pressure monitoring system may give an inaccurate low-pressure warning if non-TPC Spec rated tires are installed on your vehicle. Non-TPC Spec rated tires may give a low-pressure warning that is higher or lower than the proper warning level you would get with TPC Spec rated tires. See Tire Pressure Monitor System on page 358.

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Your vehicle’s original equipment tires are listed on the Tire and Loading Information Label. This label is attached to the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 277, for more information about the Tire and Loading Information Label and its location on your vehicle.

Different Size Tires and Wheels If you add wheels or tires that are a different size than your original equipment wheels and tires, this may affect the way your vehicle performs, including its braking, ride and handling characteristics, stability, and resistance to rollover. Additionally, if your vehicle has electronic systems such as, anti-lock brakes, traction control, and electronic stability control, the performance of these systems can be affected.

{CAUTION:

If you add different sized wheels, your vehicle may not provide an acceptable level of performance and safety if tires not recommended for those wheels are selected. You may increase the chance that you will crash and suffer serious injury. Only use GM specific wheel and tire systems developed for your vehicle, and have them properly installed by a GM certified technician.

See Buying New Tires on page 364 and Accessories and Modifications on page 296
for additional information.

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Uniform Tire Quality Grading Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum section width. For example: Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA), which grades tires by treadwear, traction, and temperature performance. This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States. The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG) system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver, or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards.

Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1.5) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices, and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction – AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics.

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Temperature – A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.

Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The tires and wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. Adjustments to wheel alignment and tire balancing will not be necessary on a regular basis. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling to one side or the other, the alignment may need to be checked. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your tires and wheels may need to be rebalanced. See your dealer for proper diagnosis.

Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked, or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your dealer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need.

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Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces. If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts, or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts for your vehicle.

{CAUTION:

Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts, or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts for replacement.

Notice: The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance, and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 372 for more information. Used Replacement Wheels

{CAUTION:

Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is dangerous. You cannot know how it has been used or how far it has been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause a crash. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new GM original equipment wheel.

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Tire Chains

{CAUTION:

If your vehicle has P225/55R17 or P235/50R18 size tires, do not use tire chains, there is not enough clearance. Tire chains used on a vehicle without the proper amount of clearance can cause damage to the brakes, suspension, or other vehicle parts. The area damaged by the tire chains could cause you to lose control of your vehicle and you or others may be injured in a crash. Use another type of traction device only if its manufacturer recommends it for use on your vehicle and tire size combination and road conditions. Follow that manufacturer’s instructions.

CAUTION:

(Continued)

370

CAUTION:

(Continued)

To help avoid damage to your vehicle, drive slowly, readjust, or remove the device if it is contacting your vehicle, and do not spin your wheels. If you do find traction devices that will fit, install them on the front tires.

If your vehicle has a tire size other

Notice: than P225/55R17 or P235/50R18 size tires, use tire chains only where legal and only when you must. Use only SAE Class S-type chains that are the proper size for your tires. Install them on the front tires and tighten them as tightly as possible with the ends securely fastened. Drive slowly and follow the chain manufacturer’s instructions. If you can hear the chains contacting your vehicle, stop and retighten them. If the contact continues, slow down until it stops. Driving too fast or spinning the wheels with chains on will damage your vehicle.

If a Tire Goes Flat It is unusual for a tire to blowout while you are driving, especially if you maintain your vehicle’s tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it is much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a blowout, here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane. A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you would use in a skid. In any rear blowout remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop, well off the road if possible.

{CAUTION:

Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do maintenance or repairs is dangerous without the appropriate safety equipment and training. The jack provided with your vehicle is designed only for changing a flat tire. If it is used for anything else, you or others could be badly injured or killed if the vehicle slips off the jack. Use the jack provided with your vehicle only for changing a flat tire.

If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use the jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.

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CAUTION:

(Continued)

3. Turn off the engine and do not restart

while the vehicle is raised.

4. Do not allow passengers to remain

in the vehicle.

To be even more certain the vehicle will not move, you should put blocks at the front and rear of the tire farthest away from the one being changed. That would be the tire, on the other side, at the opposite end of the vehicle.

Changing a Flat Tire If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your vehicle’s hazard warning flashers. See Hazard Warning Flashers on page 148 for more information.

{CAUTION:

Changing a tire can be dangerous. The vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over or fall on you or other people. You and they could be badly injured or even killed. Find a level place to change your tire. To help prevent the vehicle from moving:

1. Set the parking brake firmly. 2. Put the shift lever in PARK (P).

CAUTION:

(Continued)

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When your vehicle has a flat tire, use the following example as a guide to assist you in the placement of wheel blocks.

Removing the Spare Tire and Tools The equipment you will need is located in the trunk. 1. Open the trunk. See Trunk on page 101 for

more information.

2. Turn the center nut

on the compact spare tire cover counterclockwise to remove it. Then remove the cover.

The following information will tell you next how to use the jack and change a tire.

3. Remove the compact spare tire. See Compact Spare Tire on page 384 for more information.

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4. Turn the nut holding the jack counterclockwise

and remove it. Then remove the jack and wrench.

The tools you will need to change a tire include the jack (A), extension and protection guide (B), and wheel wrench (C).

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Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire Your vehicle may have aluminum wheels with exposed wheel nuts. Use the wheel wrench to loosen all the wheel nuts. Do not remove them yet. Or, your vehicle may have steel wheel covers.

To remove the steel wheel covers and wheel nut caps, loosen the plastic nut caps with the wheel wrench in a counterclockwise direction. If needed, you can finish loosening them with your fingers. The plastic nut caps will not come off. Use the flat end of the wheel wrench and pry along the edge of the cover until it comes off. The edge of the wheel cover could be sharp, so do not try to remove it with your bare hands. Do not drop the cover or lay it face down, as it could become scratched or damaged.

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Once you have removed the wheel cover, use the following procedure to remove the flat tire and install the spare tire.

1. It is recommended

that you do a safety check before preceding. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 372 for more information.

Turn the wheel wrench once on each wheel nut to loosen them. Do not remove them yet.

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2. For all wheel types, find the jacking

location using the diagram above and the corresponding hoisting notches located on the bottom side of the plastic molding. The notches in the plastic molding are marked with a triangle shape to help you find them. The front location is about 7.0 inches (17.7 cm) from the rear edge of the front wheel well. The rear location is about 4.5 inches (11.4 cm) from the rear edge of the wheel well. 3. Put the compact spare tire near you.

{CAUTION:

{CAUTION:

Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack.

Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned can damage the vehicle and even make the vehicle fall. To help avoid personal injury and vehicle damage, be sure to fit the jack lift head into the proper location before raising the vehicle.

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{CAUTION:

Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do maintenance or repairs is dangerous without the appropriate safety equipment and training. The jack provided with your vehicle is designed only for changing a flat tire. If it is used for anything else, you or others could be badly injured or killed if the vehicle slips off the jack. Use the