2009 Chevrolet HHR Owners Manual

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others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant. If using this mixture, nothing else needs to be added. This mixture: (cid:129) Gives freezing protection down to −34°F (−37°C), outside temperature. (cid:129) Gives boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C), engine temperature. If an improper coolant mixture is used, (cid:129) Protects against rust and corrosion. (cid:129) Will not damage aluminum parts. (cid:129) Helps keep the proper engine temperature. Notice: the engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core, and other parts. Notice: If extra inhibitors and/or additives are used in the vehicle’s cooling system, the vehicle could be damaged. Use only the proper mixture of the engine coolant listed in this manual for the cooling system. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-14 for more information. 5-28 Checking Coolant The vehicle must be on a level surface when checking the coolant level. The coolant recovery tank cap has this symbol on it. The tank is located in the engine compartment toward the front of the engine on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for more information on location. Check to see if coolant is visible in the coolant recovery tank. If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down. If coolant is visible but the coolant level is not at or above the COLD FILL mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant at the coolant recovery tank, but be sure the cooling system is cool before this is done. When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the COLD FILL (A) line or a little higher. The COLD FILL line is near the bottom of the tank and sticks out from the rear of the tank. When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be at or above the COLD FILL line. If it is not, you may have a leak in the cooling system. 5-29 How to Add Coolant to the Cooling System { CAUTION: { CAUTION: You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine. Notice: This vehicle has a speciﬁc coolant ﬁll procedure. Failure to follow this procedure could cause the engine to overheat and be severely damaged. An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can cause injury. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan. { CAUTION: Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the surge tank pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the surge tank pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and surge tank pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap. 5-30 If no coolant is visible in the coolant recovery tank, add coolant at the pressure cap as follows: 1. Remove the pressure cap when the cooling system, including the pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left to be vented. 2. Then keep turning the pressure cap and remove it. 3. Add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture to the coolant ﬁll port, up to the base of the port. See Engine Coolant on page 5-27 Engine Coolant for more information about the proper coolant mixture. 4. Rinse or wipe any spilled coolant from the engine and the compartment. 5. Then ﬁll the coolant recovery tank to the COLD FILL (A) line. 6. Put the cap back on the coolant recovery tank, but leave the pressure cap off. 7. Start the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fan. 5-31 8. By this time, the coolant level inside the radiator ﬁller port may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture through the ﬁll port until the level reaches the base of the ﬁll port. 9. Then replace the pressure cap. At any time during this procedure, if coolant begins to ﬂow out of the ﬁll port, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure the pressure cap is hand-tight and fully seated. 10. When the engine has cooled, check the coolant in the coolant recovery tank. The level in the coolant recovery tank should be at the COLD FILL line when the engine is cold. If the pressure cap is not tightly installed, Pressure Cap Notice: coolant loss and possible engine damage may occur. Be sure the cap is properly and tightly secured. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for more information on location. Engine Overheating The vehicle has several indicators to warn of engine overheating. You will ﬁnd a coolant temperature warning light and a coolant temperature gage on your vehicle’s instrument panel. See Engine Coolant Temperature Warning Light on page 3-36 and Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 3-36 for more information. You may decide not to lift the hood when this warning appears, but instead get service help right away. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-7. If you do decide to lift the hood, make sure the vehicle is parked on a level surface. Then check to see if the engine cooling fans are running. If the engine is overheating, both fans should be running. If they are not, do not continue to run the engine and have the vehicle serviced. Notice: Engine damage from running the engine without coolant is not covered by the warranty. Notice: driven with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. If the engine catches ﬁre because of being 5-32 If Steam Is Coming From The Engine Compartment { CAUTION: Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch ﬁre. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool. If No Steam Is Coming From The Engine Compartment If an engine overheat warning is displayed but no steam can be seen or heard, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when the vehicle: (cid:129) Climbs a long hill on a hot day. (cid:129) Stops after high-speed driving. Idles for long periods in traffic. Tows a trailer. If the overheat warning is displayed with no sign of steam: 1. Turn the air off. 2. Turn the heater on to the highest temperature and to the highest fan speed. Open the windows as necessary. 3. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in N (Neutral) while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, shift to P (Park) or N (Neutral) and let the engine idle. 5-33 (cid:129) (cid:129) If the temperature overheat gage is no longer in the overheat zone or an overheat warning no longer displays, the vehicle can be driven. Continue to drive the vehicle slow for about 10 minutes. Keep a safe vehicle distance from the car in front of you. If the warning does not come back on, continue to drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park the vehicle right away. If there is no sign of steam, idle the engine for three minutes while parked. If the warning is still displayed, turn off the engine until it cools down. Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer ﬂuid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a ﬂuid that has sufficient protection against freezing. Adding Washer Fluid Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer ﬂuid until the tank is full. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for reservoir location. Notice: (cid:129) When using concentrated washer ﬂuid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water. (cid:129) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer ﬂuid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer ﬂuid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer ﬂuid. Fill the washer ﬂuid tank only three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for ﬂuid expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full. (cid:129) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage the vehicle’s windshield washer system and paint. 5-34 (cid:129) Brakes Brake Fluid The brake master cylinder and, on manual transmission vehicles, the clutch hydraulic system use the same reservoir. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for the location of the reservoir. The reservoir is ﬁlled with DOT 3 brake ﬂuid. There are only two reasons why the brake ﬂuid level in the reservoir might go down: The brake ﬂuid level goes down because of normal brake lining wear. When new linings are installed, the ﬂuid level goes back up. (cid:129) A ﬂuid leak in the brake and/or clutch hydraulic system can also cause a low ﬂuid level. Have the brake and/or clutch hydraulic system ﬁxed, since a leak means that sooner or later the brakes and/or clutch will not work well. Do not top off the brake/clutch ﬂuid. Adding ﬂuid does not correct a leak. If ﬂuid is added when the brake linings are worn, there will be too much ﬂuid when new brake linings are installed. Add or remove ﬂuid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake/clutch hydraulic system. { CAUTION: If too much brake ﬂuid is added, it can spill on the engine and burn, if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and the vehicle could be damaged. Add brake ﬂuid only when work is done on the brake and/or clutch hydraulic system. When the brake ﬂuid falls to a low level, the brake warning light comes on. See Brake System Warning Light on page 3-33. 5-35 (cid:129) What to Add Use only new DOT 3 brake ﬂuid from a sealed container. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-14. Always clean the brake ﬂuid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This helps keep dirt from entering the reservoir. { CAUTION: With the wrong kind of ﬂuid in the brake or clutch hydraulic system, the brakes or clutch might not work well. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake ﬂuid. Notice: (cid:129) Using the wrong ﬂuid can badly damage brake or clutch hydraulic system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in the brake or clutch hydraulic system can damage brake or clutch hydraulic system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of ﬂuid. If brake ﬂuid is spilled on the vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint ﬁnish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake ﬂuid on the vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-103. 5-36 (cid:129) Brake Wear This vehicle has front disc brakes and could have rear drum brakes or rear disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound can come and go or be heard all the time the vehicle is moving, except when applying the brake pedal ﬁrmly. { CAUTION: The brake wear warning sound means that soon the brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When the brake wear warning sound is heard, have the vehicle serviced. Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair. Some driving conditions or climates can cause a brake squeal when the brakes are ﬁrst applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with the brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to torque speciﬁcations in Capacities and Speciﬁcations on page 5-114. If the vehicle has rear drum brakes, they do not have wear indicators, but if a rear brake rubbing noise is heard, have the rear brake linings inspected immediately. Rear brake drums should be removed and inspected each time the tires are removed for rotation or changing. When the front brake pads are replaced, have the rear brakes inspected, too. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer/retailer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign that brake service might be required. Brake Adjustment Every time the brakes are applied, with or without the vehicle moving, the brakes adjust for wear. 5-37 Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. The vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality brake parts. When parts of the braking system are replaced — for example, when the brake linings wear down and new ones are installed — be sure to get new approved replacement parts. If this is not done, the brakes might not work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for the vehicle, the balance between the front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance expected can change in many other ways if the wrong replacement brake parts are installed. Battery Your vehicle has a maintenance free battery. When it is time for a new battery, see your dealer/retailer for one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. The battery is located in the cargo area. Access to the battery is not necessary to jump start the vehicle. See Jump Starting on page 5-39. Warning: Battery posts, terminals, and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling. Vehicle Storage { CAUTION: Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 5-39 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt. Infrequent Usage: If the vehicle is driven infrequently, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery. This helps keep the battery from running down. Extended Storage: For extended storage of the vehicle, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery or use a battery trickle charger. This helps maintain the charge of the battery over an extended period of time. 5-38 Jump Starting If the vehicle’s battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start the vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely. { CAUTION: Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because: (cid:129) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:129) They contain gas that can explode or ignite. (cid:129) They contain enough electricity to burn you. If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you. Ignoring these steps could result in costly Notice: damage to the vehicle that would not be covered by the warranty. Trying to start the vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage the vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt battery with a negative ground system. If the other vehicle’s system is not a 12-volt Notice: system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start the vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake ﬁrmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transmission in P (Park) or a manual transmission in N (Neutral) before setting the parking brake. 5-39 You will not see the battery of your vehicle under the hood. It is located in the rear cargo area. You will not need to access your battery for jump starting. The vehicle has a remote positive (+) and a remote negative (−) jump starting terminal. Locate the remote positive terminal which is located under a red tethered cap on the engine compartment fuse block. Remove the cap to access the terminal. Do not remove fuse block cover to jump start the vehicle. If you leave the radio or other accessories Notice: on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by the warranty. Always turn off the radio and other accessories when jump starting the vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or the accessory power outlet. Turn off the radio and all lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save the radio! 4. Open the hood on the other vehicle and locate the positive (+) and negative (−) terminal locations on that vehicle. 5-40 Locate the remote negative (−) ground terminal, marked GND (−), which is located at the front of the engine compartment on the driver side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for more information on the location of the positive (+) and negative (−) terminals on the vehicle. { CAUTION: An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan. { CAUTION: Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a ﬂashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has ﬁller caps, be sure the right amount of ﬂuid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that ﬁrst. If you don’t, explosive gas could be present. Battery ﬂuid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, ﬂush the place with water and get medical help immediately. 5-41 7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. 8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery. 9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal location on the vehicle with the dead battery. Your vehicle has a remote negative (−) ground terminal marked GND (−). 10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run the engine for a while. 11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery. If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service. { CAUTION: Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running. 5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks. 6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal location on the vehicle with the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. 5-42 If the jumper cables are connected or Notice: removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Always connect and remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal. To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the vehicle that had the dead battery. 2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the vehicle with the good battery. 3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the vehicle with the good battery. 4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other vehicle. 5. Return the positive (+) terminal cover to its original position. Jumper Cable Removal A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or Remote Negative (−) Terminal (GND) B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and Remote Negative (−) Terminals C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal 5-43 Headlamp Aiming The vehicle has a visual optical headlamp aiming system. The aim has been preset at the factory and should need no further adjustment. However, if the vehicle is damaged in a crash, the headlamp aim may be affected and adjustment may be necessary. If oncoming vehicles ﬂash their high beams at you, this may also mean the vertical aim needs to be adjusted. It is recommended that the vehicle is taken to your dealer/retailer for service if the headlamps need to be re-aimed. It is possible however, to re-aim the headlamps as described. The vehicle should: (cid:129) Be placed so the headlamps are 25 ft. (7.6 m) from a light colored wall. (cid:129) Have all four tires on a level surface which is level all the way to the wall. (cid:129) Be placed so it is perpendicular to the wall or other ﬂat surface. (cid:129) Not have any snow, ice, or mud on it. (cid:129) Be fully assembled and all other work stopped while headlamp aiming is being performed. (cid:129) Normally loaded with a full tank of fuel and one person or 160 lbs (75 kg) sitting on the driver seat. (cid:129) Have all tires properly inﬂated. (cid:129) Have the spare tire is in its original location in the vehicle. Headlamp aiming is done with the vehicle’s low-beam headlamps. The high-beam headlamps will be correctly aimed if the low-beam headlamps are aimed properly. 5-44 To adjust the vertical aim: 1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on page 5-13 for more information. 2. Find the aim dot on the lens of the low-beam headlamp. 3. Measure the distance from the ground to the aim dot on the low-beam headlamp. Record the distance. 4. At the wall measure from the ground upward (A) to the recorded distance from Step 3 and mark it. 5. Draw or tape a horizontal line (B) on the wall the width of the vehicle at the height of the mark in Step 4. Notice: Do not cover a headlamp to improve beam cut-off when aiming. Covering a headlamp may cause excessive heat build-up which may cause damage to the headlamp. 6. Turn on the low-beam headlamps and place a piece of cardboard or equivalent in front of the headlamp not being adjusted. Do not place directly on the headlamp. This allows only the beam of light from the headlamp being adjusted to be seen on the ﬂat surface. 5-45 The top edge of the cut-off should be positioned at the bottom edge of the horizontal tape line. 9. Make sure that the light from the headlamp is positioned at the bottom edge of the horizontal tape line. The lamp on the left (A) shows the correct headlamp aim. The lamp on the right (B) shows the incorrect headlamp aim. 10. Repeat Steps 7 through 9 for the opposite headlamp. Driver Side Shown 7. Locate the vertical headlamp aiming screws, which are under the hood near each headlamp assembly. The adjustment screw can be turned with a 6 mm hex socket. 8. Turn the vertical aiming screw until the headlamp beam is aimed to the horizontal tape line. Turn it clockwise or counterclockwise to raise or lower the angle of the beam. 5-46 Headlamps, Front Turn Signal, and Parking Lamps Bulb Replacement For the proper type of replacement bulbs, see Replacement Bulbs on page 5-51. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer/retailer. Halogen Bulbs { CAUTION: Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package. A. Headlamp B. Turn Signal/Parking Lamp 5-47 To replace the headlamp, turn signal, or parking lamp bulb: 1. Turn the wheel to access the wheel well. 3. Reach in behind the wheel well liner and locate the bulb to be changed. 4. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and pull it straight out of the lamp assembly. 5. Pull the old bulb straight out of the bulb socket. 6. Push the new bulb straight into the bulb socket until it clicks. 7. Push the bulb socket straight into the lamp assembly and turn it clockwise to lock it into place. 8. Reinstall the wheel well liner using fasteners. 2. Remove the fasteners located on the wheel liner. To access the headlamp and the turn signal/parking lamp bulbs. 5-48 Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) To replace the center high-mounted stoplamp bulb: 1. Open the liftgate. See Liftgate on page 2-12. 4. Pull the old bulb straight out of the bulb socket. 5. Push the new bulb straight into the bulb socket until it clicks. 6. Push the bulb socket straight into the lamp assembly and turn it clockwise to lock it into place. 7. Reinstall the center trim. 2. Remove the center trim located near the top of the liftgate. 3. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and pull it straight out of the lamps assembly. 5-49 Taillamps, Turn Signal, Stoplamps and Back-up Lamps To replace one of these bulbs: 1. Open the liftgate. See Liftgate on page 2-12. A. Stoplamp/Taillamp/Turn Signal Lamp B. Back-up Lamp 5-50 2. Remove the cover in the rear cargo area of the vehicle to access the bulbs. 3. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and pull it straight out of the lamp assembly. 4. Pull the bulb straight out of the socket. 5. Install a new bulb. When installing the bulb socket into the assembly, line up the tabs with the slots in the bulb assembly. 6. Push the bulb socket straight into the lamp assembly and turn it clockwise to lock it into place. 3. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and pull the bulb straight out of the socket. 7. Reinstall the cover. License Plate Lamp To replace one of these bulbs: 1. Remove the two screws holding each of the license plate lamps to the fascia. 4. Push the new bulb into the bulb socket and turn it clockwise to lock it into place. 5. Push and turn the license plate back through the fascia opening. 6. Reinstall the two screws holding the license plate lamps to the fascia. Replacement Bulbs Exterior Lamp Bulb Number Back-up Lamp and CHMSL Front Turn Signal and Parking Lamp (Amber) Front Turn Signal and Parking Lamp (Clear) Headlamp High/Low-Beam 921 5702KA B2N H13 Stoplamp/Taillamp/Turn Signal 3057KX For replacement bulbs not listed here, contact your dealer/retailer. 5-51 2. Turn and pull the license plate lamp forward through the fascia opening. Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected for wear or cracking. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 for more information on wiper blade inspection. Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. For the proper type and length, see Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 6-16. Here’s how to remove the wiper blade: 1. Pull the windshield wiper arm away from the windshield. 5-52 2. While holding the wiper arm, lift the clip up from the blade connecting point, and pull the blade assembly down toward the windshield to remove it from the wiper arm. 3. Install the new wiper blade on the wiper arm and press down on the clip to snap it into place. Backglass Wiper Blade Replacement 1. Remove the protective cap from the wiper arm. If the protective cap is not removed before lifting the wiper arm, the wiper arm could be damaged. 2. Pull the wiper arm away from the backglass and into the service position. 3. Rotate the wiper blade, and pull down on it to remove it from the wiper arm. 4. Install the new wiper blade, then set the wiper arm back into its original position and replace the protective cap. Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your vehicle Warranty booklet for details. For additional information refer to the tire manufacturer. { CAUTION: Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous. (cid:129) Overloading your vehicle’s tires can cause overheating as a result of too much ﬂexing. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See Loading the Vehicle on page 4-25. (cid:129) Underinﬂated tires pose the same danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your vehicle’s tires are cold. See Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-61. (cid:129) Overinﬂated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured, or broken by a sudden impact — such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure. (cid:129) Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If the tire’s tread is badly worn, or if your vehicle’s tires have been damaged, replace them. 5-53 If the vehicle has low-proﬁle tires, Low-Proﬁle Performance Tire If your vehicle has P225/45R18 size tires, they are classiﬁed as low-proﬁle performance tires. These tires are designed for very responsive driving on wet or dry pavement. You may also notice more road noise with low-proﬁle performance tires and that they tend to wear faster. Notice: they are more susceptible to damage from road hazards or curb impact than standard proﬁle tires. Tire and/or wheel assembly damage can occur when coming into contact with road hazards like, potholes, or sharp edged objects, or when sliding into a curb. The vehicle warranty does not cover this type of damage. Keep tires set to the correct inﬂation pressure and, when possible avoid contact with curbs, potholes, and other road hazards. Tire Sidewall Labeling Useful information about a tire is molded into its sidewall. The examples below show a typical passenger vehicle tire and a compact spare tire sidewall. 5-54 Passenger (P-Metric) Tire Example (A) Tire Size: The tire size is a combination of letters and numbers used to deﬁne a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type, and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail. (B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Speciﬁcation): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s speciﬁc tire performance criteria have a TPC speciﬁcation code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC speciﬁcations meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines. (C) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards. (D) Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT (Department of Transportation) code is the Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (E) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (F) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction, and temperature resistance. For more information see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-72. (G) Maximum Cold Inﬂation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. 5-55 (B) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (C) Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following the DOT (Department of Transportation) code is the Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (D) Maximum Cold Inﬂation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. (E) Tire Inﬂation: The temporary use tire or compact spare tire should be inﬂated to 60 psi (420 kPa). For more information on tire pressure and inﬂation see Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-61. Compact Spare Tire Example (A) Temporary Use Only: The compact spare tire or temporary use tire has a tread life of approximately 3,000 miles (5 000 km) and should not be driven at speeds over 65 mph (105 km/h). The compact spare tire is for emergency use when a regular road tire has lost air and gone ﬂat. If your vehicle has a compact spare tire, see Compact Spare Tire on page 5-98 and If a Tire Goes Flat on page 5-75. 5-56 (F) Tire Size: A combination of letters and numbers deﬁne a tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type, and service description. The letter T as the ﬁrst character in the tire size means the tire is for temporary use only. (G) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Speciﬁcation): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s speciﬁc tire performance criteria have a TPC speciﬁcation code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC speciﬁcations meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines. Tire Size The following illustration shows an example of a typical passenger vehicle tire size. (A) Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter P as the ﬁrst character in the tire size means a passenger vehicle tire engineered to standards set by the U.S. Tire and Rim Association. (B) Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall. (C) Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is 60, as shown in item C of the illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is 60 percent as high as it is wide. (D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter R means radial ply construction; the letter D means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter B means belted-bias ply construction. (E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches. (F) Service Description: These characters represent the load index and speed rating of the tire. The load index represents the load carry capacity a tire is certiﬁed to carry. The speed rating is the maximum speed a tire is certiﬁed to carry a load. 5-57 Tire Terminology and Deﬁnitions Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa). Accessory Weight: This means the combined weight of optional accessories. Some examples of optional accessories are, automatic transmission, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air conditioning. Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire’s height to its width. Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials. Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim. Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the plies are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. Cold Tire Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up heat from driving. See Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-61. Curb Weight: The weight of a motor vehicle with standard and optional equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil, and coolant, but without passengers and cargo. DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand, and date of production. GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. See Loading the Vehicle on page 4-25. GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front axle. See Loading the Vehicle on page 4-25. 5-58 GAWR RR: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle. See Loading the Vehicle on page 4-25. Intended Outboard Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire, that must always face outward when mounted on a vehicle. Kilopascal (kPa): The metric unit for air pressure. Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: A tire used on light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles. Load Index: An assigned number ranging from 1 to 279 that corresponds to the load carrying capacity of a tire. Maximum Inﬂation Pressure: The maximum air pressure to which a cold tire can be inﬂated. The maximum air pressure is molded onto the sidewall. Maximum Load Rating: The load rating for a tire at the maximum permissible inﬂation pressure for that tire. Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight: The sum of curb weight, accessory weight, vehicle capacity weight, and production options weight. Normal Occupant Weight: The number of occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg). See Loading the Vehicle on page 4-25. Occupant Distribution: Designated seating positions. Outward Facing Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that faces outward when mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears white lettering, or bears manufacturer, brand, and/or model name molding that is higher or deeper than the same moldings on the other sidewall of the tire. Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: A tire used on passenger cars and some light duty trucks and multipurpose vehicles. 5-59 Recommended Inﬂation Pressure: Vehicle manufacturer’s recommended tire inﬂation pressure as shown on the tire placard. See Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-61 and Loading the Vehicle on page 4-25. Radial Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. Rim: A metal support for a tire and upon which the tire beads are seated. Sidewall: The portion of a tire between the tread and the bead. Speed Rating: An alphanumeric code assigned to a tire indicating the maximum speed at which a tire can operate. Traction: The friction between the tire and the road surface. The amount of grip provided. Tread: The portion of a tire that comes into contact with the road. Treadwear Indicators: Narrow bands, sometimes called wear bars, that show across the tread of a tire when only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) of tread remains. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-69. UTQGS (Uniform Tire Quality Grading Standards): A tire information system that provides consumers with ratings for a tire’s traction, temperature, and treadwear. Ratings are determined by tire manufacturers using government testing procedures. The ratings are molded into the sidewall of the tire. See Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-72. Vehicle Capacity Weight: The number of designated seating positions multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg) plus the rated cargo load. See Loading the Vehicle on page 4-25. Vehicle Maximum Load on the Tire: Load on an individual tire due to curb weight, accessory weight, occupant weight, and cargo weight. Vehicle Placard: A label permanently attached to a vehicle showing the vehicle’s capacity weight and the original equipment tire size and recommended inﬂation pressure. See “Tire and Loading Information Label” under Loading the Vehicle on page 4-25. 5-60 Inﬂation - Tire Pressure Tires need the correct amount of air pressure to operate effectively. Notice: Do not let anyone tell you that under-inﬂation or over-inﬂation is all right. It is not. If your tires do not have enough air (under-inﬂation), you can get the following: (cid:129) Too much ﬂexing (cid:129) Too much heat (cid:129) Tire overloading (cid:129) Premature or irregular wear (cid:129) Poor handling (cid:129) Reduced fuel economy If your tires have too much air (over-inﬂation), you can get the following: (cid:129) Unusual wear (cid:129) Poor handling (cid:129) Rough ride (cid:129) Needless damage from road hazards A vehicle speciﬁc Tire and Loading Information label is attached to your vehicle. This label shows your vehicle’s original equipment tires and the correct inﬂation pressures for your tires when they are cold. The recommended cold tire inﬂation pressure, shown on the label, is the minimum amount of air pressure needed to support your vehicle’s maximum load carrying capacity. For additional information regarding how much weight your vehicle can carry, and an example of the Tire and Loading Information label, see Loading the Vehicle on page 4-25. How you load your vehicle affects vehicle handling and ride comfort. Never load your vehicle with more weight than it was designed to carry. When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Do not forget to check the compact spare tire, it should be at 60 psi (420 kPa). For additional information regarding the compact spare tire, see Compact Spare Tire on page 5-98. 5-61 How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You cannot tell if your tires are properly inﬂated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inﬂated even when they are under-inﬂated. Check the tire’s inﬂation pressure when the tires are cold. Cold means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km). Remove the valve cap from the tire valve stem. Press the tire gage ﬁrmly onto the valve to get a pressure measurement. If the cold tire inﬂation pressure matches the recommended pressure on the Tire and Loading Information label, no further adjustment is necessary. If the inﬂation pressure is low, add air until you reach the recommended amount. If you overﬁll the tire, release air by pushing on the metal stem in the center of the tire valve. Re-check the tire pressure with the tire gage. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture. Tire Pressure Monitor System The Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) uses radio and sensor technology to check tire pressure levels. The TPMS sensors monitor the air pressure in your vehicle’s tires and transmit tire pressure readings to a receiver located in the vehicle. Each tire, including the spare (if provided), should be checked monthly when cold and inﬂated to the inﬂation pressure recommended by the vehicle manufacturer on the vehicle placard or tire inﬂation pressure label. (If your vehicle has tires of a different size than the size indicated on the vehicle placard or tire inﬂation pressure label, you should determine the proper tire inﬂation pressure for those tires.) As an added safety feature, your vehicle has been equipped with a tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS) that illuminates a low tire pressure telltale when one or more of your tires is signiﬁcantly under-inﬂated. Accordingly, when the low tire pressure telltale illuminates, you should stop and check your tires as soon as possible, and inﬂate them to the proper pressure. Driving on a signiﬁcantly under-inﬂated tire causes the tire to overheat and can lead to tire failure. Under-inﬂation also reduces fuel efficiency and tire tread life, and may affect the vehicle’s handling and stopping ability. 5-62 Please note that the TPMS is not a substitute for proper tire maintenance, and it is the driver’s responsibility to maintain correct tire pressure, even if under-inﬂation has not reached the level to trigger illumination of the TPMS low tire pressure telltale. Your vehicle has also been equipped with a TPMS malfunction indicator to indicate when the system is not operating properly. The TPMS malfunction indicator is combined with the low tire pressure telltale. When the system detects a malfunction, the telltale will ﬂash for approximately one minute and then remain continuously illuminated. This sequence will continue upon subsequent vehicle start-ups as long as the malfunction exists. When the malfunction indicator is illuminated, the system may not be able to detect or signal low tire pressure as intended. TPMS malfunctions may occur for a variety of reasons, including the installation of replacement or alternate tires or wheels on the vehicle that prevent the TPMS from functioning properly. Always check the TPMS malfunction telltale after replacing one or more tires or wheels on your vehicle to ensure that the replacement or alternate tires and wheels allow the TPMS to continue to function properly. See Tire Pressure Monitor Operation on page 5-64 for additional information. Federal Communications Commission (FCC) and Industry and Science Canada The Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) operates on a radio frequency and complies with Part 15 of the FCC Rules. Operation is subject to the following two conditions: 1. This device may not cause harmful interference. 2. This device must accept any interference received, including interference that may cause undesired operation. Vehicles with TPMS operate on a radio frequency and comply with RSS-210 of Industry and Science Canada. Operation is subject to the following two conditions: 1. This device may not cause interference. 2. This device must accept any interference received, including interference that may cause undesired operation of the device. Changes or modiﬁcations to this system by other than an authorized service facility could void authorization to use this equipment. 5-63 Tire Pressure Monitor Operation This vehicle may have a Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS). The TPMS is designed to warn the driver when a low tire pressure condition exists. If your vehicle has this feature, TPMS sensors are mounted onto each tire and wheel assembly, excluding the spare tire and wheel assembly. The TPMS sensors monitor the air pressure in the vehicle’s tires and transmits the tire pressure readings to a receiver located in the vehicle. When a low tire pressure condition is detected, the TPMS turns on the low tire pressure warning light located on the instrument panel cluster. At the same time a message to check the pressure in a speciﬁc tire appears on the Driver Information Center (DIC) display. The low tire pressure warning light and the DIC warning message come on at each ignition cycle until the tires are inﬂated to the correct inﬂation pressure. Using the DIC, tire pressure levels can be viewed by the driver. For additional information and details about the DIC operation and displays see DIC Operation and Displays on page 3-48 and DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-50. The low tire pressure warning light may come on in cool weather when the vehicle is ﬁrst started, and then turn off as you start to drive. This could be an early indicator that the air pressure in the tire(s) are getting low and need to be inﬂated to the proper pressure. A Tire and Loading Information label shows the size of your vehicle’s original equipment tires and the correct inﬂation pressure for your vehicle’s tires when they are cold. See Loading the Vehicle on page 4-25, for an example of the Tire and Loading Information label and its location on your vehicle. Also see Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-61. Your vehicle’s TPMS system can warn you about a low tire pressure condition but it does not replace normal tire maintenance. See Tire Inspection and Rotation on page 5-67 and Tires on page 5-53. Notice: Liquid tire sealants could damage the Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) sensors. Sensor damage caused by using a tire sealant is not covered by your warranty. Do not use liquid tire sealants. 5-64 TPMS Malfunction Light and Message The TPMS will not function properly if one or more of the TPMS sensors are missing or inoperable. When the system detects a malfunction, the low tire warning light ﬂashes for about one minute and then stays on for the remainder of the ignition cycle. A DIC warning message is also displayed. The low tire warning light and DIC warning message come on at each ignition cycle until the problem is corrected. Some of the conditions that can cause the malfunction light and DIC message to come on are: (cid:129) One of the road tires has been replaced with the spare tire. The spare tire does not have a TPMS sensor. The TPMS malfunction light and DIC message should go off once you re-install the road tire containing the TPMS sensor. The TPMS sensor matching process was started but not completed or not completed successfully after rotating the vehicle’s tires. The DIC message and TPMS malfunction light should go off once the TPMS sensor matching process is performed successfully. See “TPMS Sensor Matching Process” later in this section. (cid:129) One or more TPMS sensors are missing or damaged. The DIC message and the TPMS malfunction light should go off when the TPMS sensors are installed and the sensor matching process is performed successfully. See your dealer/ retailer for service. (cid:129) Replacement tires or wheels do not match your vehicle’s original equipment tires or wheels. Tires and wheels other than those recommended for your vehicle could prevent the TPMS from functioning properly. See Buying New Tires on page 5-70. (cid:129) Operating electronic devices or being near facilities using radio wave frequencies similar to the TPMS could cause the TPMS sensors to malfunction. If the TPMS is not functioning it cannot detect or signal a low tire condition. See your dealer/retailer for service if the TPMS malfunction light and DIC message comes on and stays on. 5-65 (cid:129) TPMS Sensor Matching Process Each TPMS sensor has a unique identiﬁcation code. Any time you replace one or more of the TPMS sensors or rotate the vehicle’s tires, the identiﬁcation codes need to be matched to the new tire/wheel location. The sensors are matched, to the tire/wheel locations, in the following order: driver side front tire, passenger side front tire, passenger side rear tire, and driver side rear tire using a TPMS diagnostic tool. See your dealer/retailer for service. The TPMS sensors can also be matched to each tire/wheel position by increasing or decreasing the tire’s air pressure. When increasing the tire’s pressure, do not exceed the maximum inﬂation pressure indicated on the tire’s sidewall. To decrease the tire’s air-pressure use the pointed end of the valve cap, a pencil-style air pressure gage, or a key. You have two minutes to match each tire and wheel position. If it takes longer than two minutes to match any tire and wheel position, the matching process stops and you need to start over. The TPMS matching process is outlined below: 1. Set the parking brake. 2. Turn the ignition switch to ON/RUN with the engine off. 5-66 3. Press and hold the Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) transmitter’s LOCK and UNLOCK buttons, at the same time, for about ﬁve seconds to start the TPMS learn mode. The horn sounds twice indicating the TPMS receiver is ready and in learn mode. 4. Start with the driver side front tire. The driver side front turn signal also comes on to indicate that corner’s sensor is ready to be learned. 5. Remove the valve cap from the tire’s valve stem. Activate the TPMS sensor by increasing or decreasing the tire’s air pressure for about eight seconds. The horn chirp, can take up to 30 seconds to sound. It chirps one time and then all the turn signals ﬂash one time to conﬁrm the sensor identiﬁcation code has been matched to the tire/wheel position. 6. The passenger side front turn signal comes on to indicate that corner sensor is ready to be learned. Proceed to the passenger side front tire and repeat the procedure in Step 5. 7. The passenger side rear turn signal comes on to indicate that corner sensor is ready to be learned. Proceed to the passenger side rear tire and repeat the procedure in Step 5. 8. The driver side rear turn signal comes on to indicate that corner sensor is ready to be learned. Proceed to the driver side rear tire, and repeat the procedure in Step 5. 9. After hearing the single horn chirp for the driver side rear tire, two additional horn chirps sound to indicate the tire learning process is done. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK/OFF. If no tires are learned after entering the TPMS learn mode, or if communication with the receiver stops, or if the time limit has expired, turn the ignition switch to LOCK/OFF and start over beginning with Step 2. 10. Set all four tires to the recommended air pressure level as indicated on the Tire and Loading Information label. 11. Put the valve caps back on the valve stems. Tire Inspection and Rotation We recommend that you regularly inspect your vehicle’s tires, including the spare tire, for signs of wear or damage. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-69 for more information. Tires should be rotated every 5,000 to 8,000 miles (8 000 to 13 000 km). See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4. The purpose of a regular tire rotation is to achieve a uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. This will ensure that your vehicle continues to perform most like it did when the tires were new. 5-67 Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate the tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-69 and Wheel Replacement on page 5-73. Reset the Tire Pressure Monitor System. See Tire Pressure Monitor Operation on page 5-64. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” under Capacities and Speciﬁcations on page 5-114. { CAUTION: Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if needed, to get all the rust or dirt off. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-76. When rotating the vehicle’s tires, always use the correct rotation pattern shown here. Do not include the compact spare tire in the tire rotation. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inﬂation pressures as shown on the Tire and Loading Information label. See Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-61 and Loading the Vehicle on page 4-25. 5-68 When It Is Time for New Tires Various factors, such as maintenance, temperatures, driving speeds, vehicle loading, and road conditions inﬂuence when you need new tires. One way to tell when it is time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining. You need new tires if any of the following statements are true: (cid:129) You can see the indicators at three or more places around the tire. (cid:129) You can see cord or fabric showing through the tire’s rubber. The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut, or snagged deep enough to show cord or fabric. The tire has a bump, bulge, or split. The tire has a puncture, cut, or other damage that cannot be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage. The rubber in tires degrades over time, even if they are not being used. This is also true for the spare tire, if your vehicle has one. Multiple conditions affect how fast this aging takes place, including temperatures, loading conditions, and inﬂation pressure maintenance. With proper care and maintenance tires will typically wear out before they degrade due to age. If you are unsure about the need to replace your tires as they get older, consult the tire manufacturer for more information. 5-69 (cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) Buying New Tires GM has developed and matched speciﬁc tires for your vehicle. The original equipment tires installed on your vehicle, when it was new, were designed to meet General Motors Tire Performance Criteria Speciﬁcation (TPC Spec) system rating. If you need replacement tires, GM strongly recommends that you get tires with the same TPC Spec rating. This way, your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give the same performance and vehicle safety, during normal use, as the original tires. GM’s exclusive TPC Spec system considers over a dozen critical speciﬁcations that impact the overall performance of your vehicle, including brake system performance, ride and handling, traction control, and tire pressure monitoring performance. GM’s TPC Spec number is molded onto the tire’s sidewall near the tire size. If the tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC Spec number will be followed by an MS for mud and snow. See Tire Sidewall Labeling on page 5-54 for additional information. GM recommends replacing tires in sets of four. This is because uniform tread depth on all tires will help keep your vehicle performing most like it did when the tires were new. Replacing less than a full set of tires can affect the braking and handling performance of your vehicle. See Tire Inspection and Rotation on page 5-67 for information on proper tire rotation. { CAUTION: Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes, brands, or types (radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes, brands, or types may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the correct size, brand, and type of tires on all wheels. It is all right to drive with your compact spare temporarily, as it was developed for use on your vehicle. See Compact Spare Tire on page 5-98. 5-70 { CAUTION: If you use bias-ply tires on the vehicle, the wheel rim ﬂanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on the vehicle. If you must replace your vehicle’s tires with those that do not have a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating, and construction type (radial and bias-belted tires) as your vehicle’s original tires. Vehicles that have a tire pressure monitoring system could give an inaccurate low-pressure warning if non-TPC Spec rated tires are installed on your vehicle. Non-TPC Spec rated tires may give a low-pressure warning that is higher or lower than the proper warning level you would get with TPC Spec rated tires. See Tire Pressure Monitor System on page 5-62. Your vehicle’s original equipment tires are listed on the Tire and Loading Information Label. See Loading the Vehicle on page 4-25, for more information about the Tire and Loading Information Label and its location on your vehicle. Different Size Tires and Wheels If you add wheels or tires that are a different size than your original equipment wheels and tires, this could affect the way your vehicle performs, including its braking, ride and handling characteristics, stability, and resistance to rollover. Additionally, if your vehicle has electronic systems such as anti-lock brakes, rollover airbags, traction control, and electronic stability control, the performance of these systems can be affected. { CAUTION: If you add different sized wheels, your vehicle may not provide an acceptable level of performance and safety if tires not recommended for those wheels are selected. You may increase the chance that you will crash and suffer serious injury. Only use GM speciﬁc wheel and tire systems developed for your vehicle, and have them properly installed by a GM certiﬁed technician. See Buying New Tires on page 5-70 and Accessories and Modiﬁcations on page 5-3 for additional information. 5-71 Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a speciﬁed government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1.5) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart signiﬁcantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices, and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction – AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on speciﬁed government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Uniform Tire Quality Grading Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum section width. For example: Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA), which grades tires by treadwear, traction, and temperature performance. This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States. The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG) system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver, or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards. 5-72 Temperature – A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a speciﬁed indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. It should be noted that the temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inﬂated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinﬂation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure. Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The tires and wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. Adjustments to wheel alignment and tire balancing will not be necessary on a regular basis. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling to one side or the other, the alignment might need to be checked. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, the tires and wheels might need to be rebalanced. See your dealer/retailer for proper diagnosis. Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked, or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your dealer/retailer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer/retailer will know the kind of wheel you need. Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset, and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces. 5-73 If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts, wheel nuts, or Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) sensors, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts, wheel nuts, and TPMS sensors for your vehicle. Used Replacement Wheels { CAUTION: { CAUTION: Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts, or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts for replacement. Putting a used wheel on the vehicle is dangerous. You cannot know how it has been used or how far it has been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause a crash. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new GM original equipment wheel. Tire Chains { CAUTION: Notice: The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance, and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-76 for more information. Do not use tire chains. There is not enough clearance. Tire chains used on a vehicle without the proper amount of clearance can cause damage to the brakes, suspension or other vehicle parts. The area damaged by the tire chains could cause you to lose control of the vehicle and you or others may be injured in a crash. CAUTION: (Continued) 5-74 CAUTION: (Continued) Use another type of traction device only if its manufacturer recommends it for use on the vehicle and tire size combination and road conditions. Follow that manufacturer’s instructions. To help avoid damage to the vehicle, drive slowly, readjust or remove the device if it is contacting the vehicle, and do not spin the vehicle’s wheels. If you do ﬁnd traction devices that will ﬁt, install them on the front tires. If a Tire Goes Flat It is unusual for a tire to blowout while you are driving, especially if you maintain your vehicle’s tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it is much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a blowout, here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the ﬂat tire creates a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel ﬁrmly. Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane. A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you would use in a skid. In any rear blowout remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop, well off the road if possible. { CAUTION: Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do maintenance or repairs is dangerous without the appropriate safety equipment and training. If a jack is provided with the vehicle, it is designed only for changing a ﬂat tire. If it is used for anything else, you or others could be badly injured or killed if the vehicle slips off the jack. If a jack is provided with the vehicle, only use it for changing a ﬂat tire. If a tire goes ﬂat, the next part shows how to use the jacking equipment to change a ﬂat tire safely. 5-75 Changing a Flat Tire If a tire goes ﬂat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on the hazard warning ﬂashers. See Hazard Warning Flashers on page 3-6. { CAUTION: Changing a tire can be dangerous. The vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over or fall on you or other people. You and they could be badly injured or even killed. Find a level place to change your tire. To help prevent the vehicle from moving: 1. Set the parking brake ﬁrmly. 2. Put an automatic transmission shift lever in P (Park), or shift a manual transmission to 1 (First) or R (Reverse). CAUTION: (Continued) CAUTION: (Continued) 3. Turn off the engine and do not restart while the vehicle is raised. 4. Do not allow passengers to remain in the vehicle. To be even more certain the vehicle will not move, you should put blocks at the front and rear of the tire farthest away from the one being changed. That would be the tire on the other side, at the opposite end of the vehicle. When the vehicle has a ﬂat tire (B), use the following example as a guide to assist you in the placement of wheel blocks (A). 5-76 A. Wheel Block B. Flat Tire The following information explains how to use the jack and change a tire. Removing the Spare Tire and Tools The jack, wheel wrench, and spare tire are stowed in the rear of the vehicle, underneath the ﬂoor of the cargo area. To remove the spare tire and tools: 1. Open the liftgate. See Liftgate on page 2-12 for more information. 2. Remove the cargo cover. 5-77 5. Remove the spare tire by placing your hands at the four and eight o’clock positions. Gently pull it up and out of the trunk. See Compact Spare Tire on page 5-98. 6. Remove the wing nut that holds the jack. Then remove the jack, wheel wrench, and ﬂat tire strap. 3. Turn the retainer counterclockwise to remove the tire cover. 4. Remove the tire cover. The tools needed are the jack (A) and wheel wrench (B). 5-78 Turn the plastic wheel nut counterclockwise to loosen the wheel wrench from the jack. Press the button and then pull on the end of the wheel wrench to extend the handle. 5-79 Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire (All Models Except SS) 1. Do a safety check before proceeding. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-76 for more information. 2. Using the wheel wrench, loosen all the wheel nuts. Do not remove them yet. 5-80 3. Position the jack and raise the jack lift head to ﬁt over the car ﬂange under the down arrow markings on the rocker panel. { CAUTION: Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack, you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack. { CAUTION: Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned can damage the vehicle and even make the vehicle fall. To help avoid personal injury and vehicle damage, be sure to ﬁt the jack lift head into the proper location before raising the vehicle. 4. Raise the vehicle by turning the jack handle clockwise. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so there is enough room for the compact spare tire to ﬁt underneath the wheel well. 5-81 5. Remove all the wheel nuts and take off the ﬂat tire. { CAUTION: Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When changing a wheel, remove any rust CAUTION: (Continued) 5-82 CAUTION: (Continued) or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if needed, to get all the rust or dirt off. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-76. 6. Remove any rust or dirt from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces and spare wheel. 7. Place the compact spare tire on the wheel-mounting surface. { CAUTION: Never use oil or grease on bolts or nuts because the nuts might come loose. The vehicle’s wheel could fall off, causing a crash. 8. Reinstall the wheel nuts with the rounded end of the nuts toward the wheel. Tighten each nut by hand until the wheel is held against the hub. 9. Lower the vehicle by turning the jack handle counterclockwise. Lower the jack completely. 5-83 { CAUTION: Wheel nuts that are improperly or incorrectly tightened can cause the wheels to become loose or come off. The wheel nuts should be tightened with a torque wrench to the proper torque speciﬁcation after replacing. Follow the torque speciﬁcation supplied by the aftermarket manufacturer when using accessory locking wheel nuts. See Capacities and Speciﬁcations on page 5-114 for original equipment wheel nut torque speciﬁcations. Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead Notice: to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque speciﬁcation. See Capacities and Speciﬁcations on page 5-114 for the wheel nut torque speciﬁcation. 10. Tighten the wheel nuts ﬁrmly in a crisscross sequence as shown. 5-84 Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire (SS Model) The SS Model has larger performance brakes than the base model. The compact spare tire will not clear the front brakes. Do not use the compact spare tire in the event of a front ﬂat tire. You must use the rear tire to replace the front ﬂat tire. To change the rear road tire: Rear Tire Changing Procedure 1. Do a safety check before proceeding. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-76 for more information. 2. Using the wheel wrench, loosen all the wheel nuts on the rear tire. Do not remove them yet. 5-85 { CAUTION: Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack, you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack. { CAUTION: Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned can damage the vehicle and even make the vehicle fall. To help avoid personal injury and vehicle damage, be sure to ﬁt the jack lift head into the proper location before raising the vehicle. 3. Position the jack on the rear position and raise the jack lift head to ﬁt over the car ﬂange under the down arrow markings on the rocker panel. 5-86 5. Remove all the wheel nuts and take off the tire. 4. Raise the vehicle by turning the jack handle clockwise. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so there is enough room for the compact spare tire to ﬁt underneath the wheel well. 6. Install the compact spare tire. 5-87 { CAUTION: { CAUTION: Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When changing a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if needed, to get all the rust or dirt off. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-76. Never use oil or grease on bolts or nuts because the nuts might come loose. The vehicle’s wheel could fall off, causing a crash. 9. Reinstall the wheel nuts with the rounded end of the nuts toward the wheel. Tighten each nut by hand until the wheel is held against the hub. 7. Remove any rust or dirt from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces and spare wheel. 8. Place the compact spare tire on the wheel-mounting surface. 10. Lower the vehicle by turning the jack handle counterclockwise. Lower the jack completely. 5-88 { CAUTION: Wheel nuts that are improperly or incorrectly tightened can cause the wheels to become loose or come off. The wheel nuts should be tightened with a torque wrench to the proper torque speciﬁcation after replacing. Follow the torque speciﬁcation supplied by the aftermarket manufacturer when using accessory locking wheel nuts. See Capacities and Speciﬁcations on page 5-114 for original equipment wheel nut torque speciﬁcations. Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead Notice: to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque speciﬁcation. See Capacities and Speciﬁcations on page 5-114 for the wheel nut torque speciﬁcation. 11. Tighten the wheel nuts ﬁrmly in a crisscross sequence as shown. 5-89 To change the front ﬂat tire: Front Tire Changing Procedure 1. Perform a rear tire change by removing the rear tire and installing the compact spare tire in the rear wheel location. The rear road tire will be used to replace the front ﬂat tire. See Rear Tire Changing Procedure in this section. 2. Using the wheel wrench, loosen all the wheel nuts on the front ﬂat tire. Do not remove them yet. 5-90 3. Position the jack on the front position and raise the jack lift head to ﬁt over the car ﬂange under the down arrow markings on the rocker panel. { CAUTION: Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack, you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack. { CAUTION: Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned can damage the vehicle and even make the vehicle fall. To help avoid personal injury and vehicle damage, be sure to ﬁt the jack lift head into the proper location before raising the vehicle. 4. Raise the vehicle by turning the jack handle clockwise. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so there is enough room for the tire. 5-91 5. Remove all the wheel nuts and take off the ﬂat tire. { CAUTION: Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When changing a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if needed, to get all the rust or dirt off. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-76. 6. Install the tire. 5-92 7. Remove any rust or dirt from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces, and wheel. 8. Place the tire on the wheel mounting surface. 9. Reinstall the wheel nuts with the rounded end of the nuts toward the wheel. Tighten each by hand until the wheel is held against the hub. { CAUTION: Never use oil or grease on bolts or nuts because the nuts might come loose. The vehicle’s wheel could fall off, causing a crash. 10. Lower the vehicle by turning the jack handle counterclockwise. Lower the jack completely. 5-93 { CAUTION:

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2009 Chevrolet HHR Owners Manual