2009 Chevrolet HHR Owners Manual

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Adjust your driving accordingly. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-50 for more information. The Traction Control System comes on automatically whenever the vehicle is started. It is recommended to leave the system on for normal driving conditions, but it may be necessary to turn the system off if the vehicle is stuck in sand, mud, ice or snow, and you want to “rock” your vehicle to attempt to free it. It may also be necessary to turn off the system when driving in off-road conditions where high wheel spin is required. See If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand, Mud, Ice, or Snow on page 4-24. 4-10 To turn the system off or on, press and release the ESC/TCS button located on the instrument panel. The DIC displays the appropriate message as described previously when the button is pressed. Traction Control Operation Traction control limits wheel spin by reducing engine power to the wheels (engine speed management) and by applying brakes to each individual wheel (brake-traction control) as necessary. The traction control system is enabled automatically when the vehicle is started, and it will activate and ﬂash the ESC/TCS light and display the LOW TRACTION message if it senses that either of the front wheels are spinning or beginning to lose traction while driving. For more information on the LOW TRACTION message, see Driver Information Center (DIC) on page 3-48. Notice: If the wheel(s) of one axle are allowed to spin excessively while the ESC/TCS, ABS and Brake warning lights and the SERVICE ESC and/or SERVICE TRACTION messages are displayed, the differential could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Reduce engine power and do not spin the wheel(s) excessively while these lights and this message are displayed. Notice: When traction control is turned off, or Competitive Driving Mode is active, it is possible to lose traction. If you attempt to shift with the drive wheels spinning with a loss of traction, it is possible to cause damage to the transmission. Do not attempt to shift when the drive wheels do not have traction. Damage caused by misuse of the vehicle is not covered. See the warranty book for additional information. The traction control system may activate on dry or rough roads or under conditions such as heavy acceleration while turning or abrupt upshifts/downshifts of the transmission. When this happens, a reduction in acceleration may be noticed or a noise or vibration may be heard. This is normal. If the vehicle is in cruise control while the system activates, the ESC/TCS light ﬂashes and the cruise control automatically disengages. The cruise control can be re-engaged when road conditions allow. See Cruise Control on page 3-10. Adding non-dealer/non-retailer accessories can affect the vehicle’s performance. See Accessories and Modiﬁcations on page 5-3 for more information. 4-11 Enhanced Traction System (ETS) The vehicle may have an Enhanced Traction System (ETS) that limits wheel spin. This is especially useful in slippery road conditions. The system operates only if it senses that one or both of the front wheels are spinning or beginning to lose traction. When this happens, the system reduces engine power and may also upshift the transmission to limit wheel spin. If the vehicle has ETS, there is not an ESC/TCS button on the instrument panel. To turn the system off, shift to L (Low) or R (Reverse). There is more information about how to turn the system off later in this section. The ETS indicator/warning light ﬂashes and LOW TRACTION appears on the Driver Information Center (DIC) when the traction control system is actively limiting wheel spin. The system may be heard or felt while it is working, but this is normal. Slippery road conditions may exist if this message is displayed, so adjust your driving accordingly. If the vehicle is in cruise control when the ETS begins to limit wheel spin, the cruise control will automatically disengage. The cruise control can be re-engaged when road conditions allow. See Cruise Control on page 3-10. 4-12 The ETS indicator/warning light may come on for the following reasons: The indicator/warning light ﬂashes while the traction control system is limiting wheel spin. If the system is turned off by moving the shift lever to L (Low), the indicator/warning light comes on and stays on. To turn the system back on, move the shift lever back to a position other than L (Low). The indicator/warning light should go off. The indicator/warning light will come on when the parking brake is set with the engine running, and it will stay on if the parking brake does not release fully. If the transmission shift lever is in any position other than L (Low) and the indicator/warning light stays on after the parking brake is fully released, there is a problem with the system. If the traction control system is affected by an engine related problem, the system will turn off and the indicator/warning light will come on. (cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) If the ETS indicator/warning light comes on and stays on for an extended period of time when the transmission shift lever is in any position other than L (Low), the vehicle may need service. When this light is on solid, the system will not limit wheel spin. Adjust your driving accordingly. Check the DIC messaging to determine whether it is because of the driver turning off the system, or that the system may not be working properly and the vehicle requires service. When this light is turned on, either the SERVICE TRACTION or TRACTION OFF message will be displayed. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-50 for more information on the messages associated with this light. To limit wheel spin, especially in slippery road conditions, ETS should always be left on. But the system can be turned off if needed. To turn the system off, shift to L (Low) or R (Reverse). When the system is turned off, the ETS indicator/warning light will come on and stay on and the TRACTION OFF message will be displayed when the gear shift is in L (Low). The indicator/warning light and message will not come on when the gear shift is in R (Reverse). If the ETS is limiting wheel spin when the transmission is shifted to L (Low) or R (Reverse) to turn the system off, the indicator/warning light and TRACTION OFF will come on in L (Low). But the system will not turn off right away. It will wait until there is no longer a current need to limit wheel spin. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-50 for more information on the messages associated with this light. The system can be turned back on at any time by shifting to D (Automatic Overdive) or I (Intermediate). The ETS indicator/warning light should go off. Adding non-dealer/non-retailer accessories can affect the vehicle’s performance. See Accessories and Modiﬁcations on page 5-3 for more information. Limited-Slip Differential Vehicles with a limited-slip differential can give more traction on snow, mud, ice, sand or gravel. It works like a standard axle most of the time, but when traction is low, this feature allows the drive wheel with the most traction to move the vehicle. The limited slip design has minimal impact to the steering feel, but boosts the traction performance under all conditions. 4-13 Steering Electric Power Steering If the engine stalls while driving, the power steering assist system will continue to operate until you are able to stop the vehicle. If power steering assist is lost because the electric power steering system is not functioning, the vehicle can be steered but it will take more effort. If you turn the steering wheel in either direction several times until it stops, or hold the steering wheel in the stopped position for an extended amount of time, you may notice a reduced amount of power steering assist. The normal amount of power steering assist should return shortly after a few normal steering movements. The electric power steering system does not require regular maintenance. If you suspect steering system problems and/or the POWER STEERING message comes on, contact your dealer/retailer for service repairs. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-50. Steering Tips It is important to take curves at a reasonable speed. Traction in a curve depends on the condition of the tires and the road surface, the angle at which the curve is banked, and vehicle speed. While in a curve, speed is the one factor that can be controlled. If there is a need to reduce speed, do it before entering the curve, while the front wheels are straight. Try to adjust the speed so you can drive through the curve. Maintain a reasonable, steady speed. Wait to accelerate until out of the curve, and then accelerate gently into the straightaway. 4-14 Steering in Emergencies There are times when steering can be more effective than braking. For example, you come over a hill and ﬁnd a truck stopped in your lane, or a car suddenly pulls out from nowhere, or a child darts out from between parked cars and stops right in front of you. These problems can be avoided by braking — if you can stop in time. But sometimes you cannot stop in time because there is no room. That is the time for evasive action — steering around the problem. The vehicle can perform very well in emergencies like these. First apply the brakes — but, unless the vehicle has antilock brakes, not enough to lock the wheels. See Braking on page 4-4. It is better to remove as much speed as possible from a collision. Then steer around the problem, to the left or right depending on the space available. An emergency like this requires close attention and a quick decision. If holding the steering wheel at the recommended 9 and 3 o’clock positions, it can be turned a full 180 degrees very quickly without removing either hand. But you have to act fast, steer quickly, and just as quickly straighten the wheel once you have avoided the object. The fact that such emergency situations are always possible is a good reason to practice defensive driving at all times and wear safety belts properly. 4-15 Off-Road Recovery The vehicle’s right wheels can drop off the edge of a road onto the shoulder while driving. If the level of the shoulder is only slightly below the pavement, recovery should be fairly easy. Ease off the accelerator and then, if there is nothing in the way, steer so that the vehicle straddles the edge of the pavement. Turn the steering wheel 3 to 5 inches, 8 to 13 cm, (about one-eighth turn) until the right front tire contacts the pavement edge. Then turn the steering wheel to go straight down the roadway. 4-16 Passing Passing another vehicle on a two-lane road can be dangerous. To reduce the risk of danger while passing: Look down the road, to the sides, and to crossroads for situations that might affect a successful pass. If in doubt, wait. (cid:129) Watch for traffic signs, pavement markings, and lines that could indicate a turn or an intersection. Never cross a solid or double-solid line on your side of the lane. (cid:129) Do not get too close to the vehicle you want to pass. Doing so can reduce your visibility. (cid:129) Wait your turn to pass a slow vehicle. (cid:129) When you are being passed, ease to the right. Loss of Control Let us review what driving experts say about what happens when the three control systems — brakes, steering, and acceleration — do not have enough friction where the tires meet the road to do what the driver has asked. In any emergency, do not give up. Keep trying to steer and constantly seek an escape route or area of less danger. (cid:129) Skidding In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle. Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking reasonable care suited to existing conditions, and by not overdriving those conditions. But skids are always possible. The three types of skids correspond to the vehicle’s three control systems. In the braking skid, the wheels are not rolling. In the steering or cornering skid, too much speed or steering in a curve causes tires to slip and lose cornering force. And in the acceleration skid, too much throttle causes the driving wheels to spin. If the vehicle has the Traction Control System (TCS) or the Enhanced Traction System (ETS), remember: It helps to avoid only the acceleration skid. See Traction Control System (TCS) on page 4-10 or Enhanced Traction System (ETS) on page 4-12. If the vehicle does not have TCS or ETS, or if the system is off, then an acceleration skid is best handled by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal. If the vehicle starts to slide, ease your foot off the accelerator pedal and quickly steer the way you want the vehicle to go. If you start steering quickly enough, the vehicle may straighten out. Always be ready for a second skid if it occurs. If the vehicle has Electronic Stability Control (ESC), the ESC might activate. See Electronic Stability Control (ESC) on page 4-7. Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice, gravel, or other material is on the road. For safety, slow down and adjust your driving to these conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and vehicle control more limited. While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try your best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration, or braking, including reducing vehicle speed by shifting to a lower gear. Any sudden changes could cause the tires to slide. You may not realize the surface is slippery until the vehicle is skidding. Learn to recognize warning clues — such as enough water, ice, or packed snow on the road to make a mirrored surface — and slow down when you have any doubt. If the vehicle has the Antilock Brake System (ABS), remember: It helps avoid only the braking skid. If the vehicle does not have ABS, then in a braking skid, where the wheels are no longer rolling, release enough pressure on the brakes to get the wheels rolling again. This restores steering control. Push the brake pedal down steadily when you have to stop suddenly. As long as the wheels are rolling, you will have steering control. 4-17 Racing or Other Competitive Driving See your warranty book before using your vehicle for racing or other competitive driving. After reviewing your warranty book, please see the GM Performance Parts website or catalog and contact the race sanctioning bodies, for example Sports Car Club of America (SCCA) or Grand American, for parts and equipment required for racing or other competitive driving. Notice: driving, the engine may use more oil than it would with normal use. Low oil levels can damage the engine. Be sure to check the oil level often during competitive driving and keep the level at or near the upper mark that shows the proper operating range on the engine oil dipstick. For information on how to add oil, see Engine Oil on page 5-17. If you use your vehicle for competitive Driving at Night Night driving is more dangerous than day driving because some drivers are likely to be impaired — by alcohol or drugs, with night vision problems, or by fatigue. Night driving tips include: (cid:129) Drive defensively. (cid:129) Do not drink and drive. (cid:129) Reduce headlamp glare by adjusting the inside rearview mirror. (cid:129) Slow down and keep more space between you and other vehicles because headlamps can only light up so much road ahead. (cid:129) Watch for animals. (cid:129) When tired, pull off the road. (cid:129) Do not wear sunglasses. (cid:129) Avoid staring directly into approaching headlamps. (cid:129) Keep the windshield and all glass on your vehicle clean — inside and out. (cid:129) Keep your eyes moving, especially during turns or curves. No one can see as well at night as in the daytime. But, as we get older, these differences increase. A 50-year-old driver might need at least twice as much light to see the same thing at night as a 20-year-old. 4-18 Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads Rain and wet roads can reduce vehicle traction and affect your ability to stop and accelerate. Always drive slower in these types of driving conditions and avoid driving through large puddles and deep-standing or ﬂowing water. { CAUTION: Wet brakes can cause crashes. They might not work as well in a quick stop and could cause pulling to one side. You could lose control of the vehicle. After driving through a large puddle of water or a car/vehicle wash, lightly apply the brake pedal until the brakes work normally. Flowing or rushing water creates strong forces. Driving through ﬂowing water could cause your vehicle to be carried away. If this happens, you and other vehicle occupants could drown. Do not ignore police warnings and be very cautious about trying to drive through ﬂowing water. Hydroplaning Hydroplaning is dangerous. Water can build up under your vehicle’s tires so they actually ride on the water. This can happen if the road is wet enough and you are going fast enough. When your vehicle is hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road. There is no hard and fast rule about hydroplaning. The best advice is to slow down when the road is wet. Other Rainy Weather Tips Besides slowing down, other wet weather driving tips include: (cid:129) Allow extra following distance. (cid:129) Pass with caution. (cid:129) Keep windshield wiping equipment in good shape. (cid:129) Keep the windshield washer ﬂuid reservoir ﬁlled. (cid:129) Have good tires with proper tread depth. See Tires on page 5-53. Turn off cruise control. 4-19 (cid:129) Before Leaving on a Long Trip To prepare your vehicle for a long trip, consider having it serviced by your dealer/retailer before departing. Things to check on your own include: (cid:129) Windshield Washer Fluid: Reservoir full? Windows clean — inside and outside? (cid:129) Wiper Blades: In good shape? Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: All levels checked? Lamps: Do they all work and are lenses clean? Tires: Are treads good? Are tires inﬂated to recommended pressure? (cid:129) Weather and Maps: Safe to travel? Have up-to-date maps? Highway Hypnosis Always be alert and pay attention to your surroundings while driving. If you become tired or sleepy, ﬁnd a safe place to park your vehicle and rest. Other driving tips include: (cid:129) Keep the vehicle well ventilated. (cid:129) Keep interior temperature cool. (cid:129) Keep your eyes moving — scan the road ahead and to the sides. (cid:129) Check the rearview mirror and vehicle instruments often. 4-20 (cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) Hill and Mountain Roads Driving on steep hills or through mountains is different than driving on ﬂat or rolling terrain. Tips for driving in these conditions include: (cid:129) Keep the vehicle serviced and in good shape. (cid:129) Check all ﬂuid levels and brakes, tires, cooling system, and transmission. (cid:129) Going down steep or long hills, shift to a lower gear. { CAUTION: If you do not shift down, the brakes could get so hot that they would not work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Shift down to let the engine assist the brakes on a steep downhill slope. { CAUTION: Coasting downhill in N (Neutral) or with the ignition off is dangerous. The brakes will have to do all the work of slowing down and they could get so hot that they would not work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Always have the engine running and the vehicle in gear when going downhill. (cid:129) Stay in your own lane. Do not swing wide or cut across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let you stay in your own lane. Top of hills: Be alert — something could be in your lane (stalled car, accident). (cid:129) Pay attention to special road signs (falling rocks area, winding roads, long grades, passing or no-passing zones) and take appropriate action. 4-21 (cid:129) The Antilock Brake System (ABS) on page 4-5 improves vehicle stability during hard stops on a slippery roads, but apply the brakes sooner than when on dry pavement. Allow greater following distance on any slippery road and watch for slippery spots. Icy patches can occur on otherwise clear roads in shaded areas. The surface of a curve or an overpass can remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. Avoid sudden steering maneuvers and braking while on ice. Turn off cruise control, if equipped, on slippery surfaces. Blizzard Conditions Being stuck in snow can be in a serious situation. Stay with the vehicle unless there is help nearby. If possible, use the Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-7. To get help and keep everyone in the vehicle safe: Turn on the Hazard Warning Flashers on page 3-6. Tie a red cloth to an outside mirror. Winter Driving Driving on Snow or Ice Drive carefully when there is snow or ice between the tires and the road, creating less traction or grip. Wet ice can occur at about 32°F (0°C) when freezing rain begins to fall, resulting in even less traction. Avoid driving on wet ice or in freezing rain until roads can be treated with salt or sand. Drive with caution, whatever the condition. Accelerate gently so traction is not lost. Accelerating too quickly causes the wheels to spin and makes the surface under the tires slick, so there is even less traction. Try not to break the fragile traction. If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and polish the surface under the tires even more. If the vehicle has the Traction Control System (TCS) on page 4-10 or Enhanced Traction System (ETS) on page 4-12, it improves the ability to accelerate on slippery roads, but slow down and adjust your driving to the road conditions. When driving through deep snow, turn off the traction system to help maintain vehicle motion at lower speeds. 4-22 (cid:129) (cid:129) { CAUTION: Snow can trap engine exhaust under the vehicle. This may cause exhaust gases to get inside. Engine exhaust contains carbon monoxide (CO) which cannot be seen or smelled. It can cause unconsciousness and even death.If the vehicle is stuck in the snow: (cid:129) Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking the exhaust pipe. (cid:129) Check again from time to time to be sure snow does not collect there. (cid:129) Open a window about two inches (5 cm) on the side of the vehicle that is away from the wind to bring in fresh air. (cid:129) Fully open the air outlets on or under the instrument panel. (cid:129) Adjust the Climate Control system to a setting that circulates the air inside the vehicle and set the fan speed to the highest setting. See Climate Control System in the Index. For more information about carbon monoxide, see Engine Exhaust on page 2-37. CAUTION: (Continued) CAUTION: (Continued) Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you. You cannot see it or smell it, so you might not know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking the exhaust. Run the engine for short periods only as needed to keep warm, but be careful. To save fuel, run the engine for only short periods as needed to warm the vehicle and then shut the engine off and close the window most of the way to save heat. Repeat this until help arrives but only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. Moving about to keep warm also helps. If it takes some time for help to arrive, now and then when you run the engine, push the accelerator pedal slightly so the engine runs faster than the idle speed. This keeps the battery charged to restart the vehicle and to signal for help with the headlamps. Do this as little as possible to save fuel. 4-23 If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand, Mud, Ice, or Snow Slowly and cautiously spin the wheels to free the vehicle when stuck in sand, mud, ice, or snow. See Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out on page 4-25. If the vehicle has a traction system, it can often help to free a stuck vehicle. Refer to the vehicle’s traction system in the Index. If stuck too severely for the traction system to free the vehicle, turn the traction system off and use the rocking method. { CAUTION: If you let your vehicle’s tires spin at high speed, they can explode, and you or others could be injured. The vehicle can overheat, causing an engine compartment ﬁre or other damage. Spin the wheels as little as possible and avoid going above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer. For information about using tire chains on the vehicle, see Tire Chains on page 5-74. 4-24 Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out Turn the steering wheel left and right to clear the area around the front wheels. Turn off any traction system. Shift back and forth between R (Reverse) and a forward gear, or with a manual transmission, between 1 (First) or 2 (Second) and R (Reverse), spinning the wheels as little as possible. To prevent transmission wear, wait until the wheels stop spinning before shifting gears. Release the accelerator pedal while shifting, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear. Slowly spinning the wheels in the forward and reverse directions causes a rocking motion that could free the vehicle. If that does not get the vehicle out after a few tries, it might need to be towed out. If the vehicle does need to be towed out, see Towing Your Vehicle on page 4-31. Loading the Vehicle It is very important to know how much weight your vehicle can carry. Two labels on your vehicle show how much weight it may properly carry, the Tire and Loading Information label and the Vehicle Certiﬁcation label. { CAUTION: Do not load the vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on the vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of the vehicle. 4-25 The tire and loading information label lists the number of occupant seating positions (A), and the maximum vehicle capacity weight (B) in kilograms and pounds. The vehicle capacity weight includes the weight of all occupants, cargo, and all nonfactory-installed options. The Tire and Loading Information label also lists the tire size of the original equipment tires (C) and the recommended cold tire inﬂation pressures (D). For more information on tires and inﬂation, see Tires on page 5-53 and Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-61. There is also important loading information on the Certiﬁcation/Tire label. It tells you the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) and the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for the front and rear axles. See “Certiﬁcation/Tire Label” later in this section. Tire and Loading Information Label Label Example A vehicle speciﬁc Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar). With the driver’s door open, you will ﬁnd the label attached below the door lock post (striker). 4-26 Steps for Determining Correct Load Limit 1. Locate the statement “The combined weight of occupants and cargo should never exceed XXX kg or XXX lbs” on your vehicle’s placard. 2. Determine the combined weight of the driver and passengers that will be riding in your vehicle. 3. Subtract the combined weight of the driver and passengers from XXX kg or XXX lbs. 4. The resulting ﬁgure equals the available amount of cargo and luggage load capacity. For example, if the “XXX” amount equals 1400 lbs and there will be ﬁve 150 lb passengers in your vehicle, the amount of available cargo and luggage load capacity is 650 lbs (1400 − 750 (5 x 150) = 650 lbs). 5. Determine the combined weight of luggage and cargo being loaded on the vehicle. That weight may not safely exceed the available cargo and luggage load capacity calculated in Step 4. 6. If your vehicle will be towing a trailer, the load from your trailer will be transferred to your vehicle. Consult this manual to determine how this reduces the available cargo and luggage load capacity for your vehicle. If your vehicle can tow a trailer, see Towing a Trailer (Automatic Transmission) on page 4-34 or Towing a Trailer (Manual Transmission) on page 4-41 for important information on towing a trailer, towing safety rules, and trailering tips. 4-27 Example 1 Example 2 Item Description Maximum Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 1 = Subtract Occupant Weight 150 lbs (68 kg) × 2 = Available Occupant and Cargo Weight = Total Item 1,000 lbs (453 kg) 300 lbs (136 kg) 700 lbs (317 kg) Description Maximum Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 2 = Subtract Occupant Weight 150 lbs (68 kg) × 5 = Available Cargo Weight = Total 1,000 lbs (453 kg) 750 lbs (340 kg) 250 lbs (113 kg) 4-28 Example 3 Item Description Maximum Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 3 = Subtract Occupant Weight 200 lbs (91 kg) × 5 = Available Cargo Weight = Total 1,000 lbs (453 kg) 1,000 lbs (453 kg) 0 lbs (0 kg) Refer to your vehicle’s tire and loading information label for speciﬁc information about your vehicle’s maximum vehicle capacity weight and seating positions. The combined weight of the driver, passengers, and cargo should never exceed your vehicle’s maximum vehicle capacity weight. 4-29 Certiﬁcation Label A vehicle speciﬁc Certiﬁcation/Tire label is found on the rear edge of the driver’s door, or on the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar). The label shows the size of your original tires and the inﬂation pressures needed to obtain the gross weight capacity of your vehicle. This is called the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel, and cargo. 4-30 The Certiﬁcation/Tire label also tells you the maximum weights for the front and rear axles, called the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). To ﬁnd out the actual loads on your front and rear axles, you need to go to a weigh station and weigh your vehicle. Your dealer can help you with this. Be sure to spread out your load equally on both sides of the centerline. Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle or the GAWR for either the front or rear axle. { CAUTION: Do not load the vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on the vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of the vehicle. Notice: Overloading your vehicle may cause damage. Repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not overload your vehicle. If you put things inside your vehicle — like suitcases, tools, packages, or anything else — they will go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they will keep going. { CAUTION: Things you put inside your vehicle can strike and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or in a crash. (cid:129) Put things in the cargo area of your vehicle. Try to spread the weight evenly. (cid:129) Never stack heavier things, like suitcases, inside the vehicle so that some of them are above the tops of the seats. (cid:129) Do not leave an unsecured child restraint in your vehicle. (cid:129) When you carry something inside the vehicle, secure it whenever you can. (cid:129) Do not leave a seat folded down unless you need to. Towing Towing Your Vehicle To avoid damage, the disabled vehicle should be towed with all four wheels off the ground. Consult your dealer/ retailer or a professional towing service if the disabled vehicle must be towed. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-7. To tow the vehicle behind another vehicle for recreational purposes, such as behind a motorhome, see “Recreational Vehicle Towing” following. Recreational Vehicle Towing Recreational vehicle towing means towing the vehicle behind another vehicle – such as behind a motorhome. The two most common types of recreational vehicle towing are known as dinghy towing and dolly towing. Dinghy towing is towing the vehicle with all four wheels on the ground. Dolly towing is towing the vehicle with two wheels on the ground and two wheels up on a device known as a dolly. 4-31 Here are some important things to consider before recreational vehicle towing: (cid:129) What is the towing capacity of the towing vehicle? Be sure to read the tow vehicle manufacturer’s recommendations. (cid:129) What is the distance that will be travelled? Some vehicles have restrictions on how far and how long they can tow. Is the proper towing equipment going to be used? See your dealer/retailer or trailering professional for additional advice and equipment recommendations. Is the vehicle ready to be towed? Just as preparing the vehicle for a long trip, make sure the vehicle is prepared to be towed. See Before Leaving on a Long Trip on page 4-20. 4-32 Dinghy Towing Use the following procedure to dinghy tow the vehicle from the front with all four wheels on the ground: 1. Set the parking brake. 2. Turn the ignition key to ACC/ACCESSORY to unlock the steering wheel. 3. Shift the transmission to N (Neutral). 4. Release the parking brake. (cid:129) (cid:129) Dolly Towing To prevent the battery from draining while the vehicle is being towed, remove the following fuse from the ﬂoor console fuse block: 8 (Ignition Switch, PASS-Key® III+). See Floor Console Fuse Block on page 5-109 for more information. Remember to reinstall the fuse once the destination has been reached. Notice: If 65 mph (105 km/h) is exceeded while towing the vehicle, it could be damaged. Never exceed 65 mph (105 km/h) while towing the vehicle. Notice: Towing the vehicle from the rear could damage it. Also, repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Never have the vehicle towed from the rear. Use the following procedure to dolly tow the vehicle from the front with two wheels on the ground: 1. Put the front wheels on a dolly. 2. Move the shift lever to P (Park). 3. Set the parking brake and then remove the key. 4. Clamp the steering wheel in a straight-ahead position with a clamping device designed for towing. 5. Secure the vehicle to the dolly. 6. Release the parking brake. 4-33 Trailering is different than just driving the vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, acceleration, braking, cooling, durability and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly. The following information has many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before pulling a trailer. Load-pulling components such as the engine, transmission, wheel assemblies and tires are forced to work harder against the drag of the added weight. The engine is required to operate at relatively higher speeds and under greater loads, generating extra heat. Also, the trailer adds considerably to wind resistance, increasing the pulling requirements. SS Package If the vehicle has the SS package, it is neither designed nor intended to tow a trailer. Towing a Trailer (Automatic Transmission) { CAUTION: The driver can lose control when pulling a trailer if the correct equipment is not used or the vehicle is not driven properly. For example, if the trailer is too heavy, the brakes may not work well — or even at all. The driver and passengers could be seriously injured. The vehicle may also be damaged; the resulting repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Pull a trailer only if all the steps in this section have been followed. Ask your dealer/ retailer for advice and information about towing a trailer with the vehicle. The vehicle can tow a trailer if it is equipped with an automatic transmission and the proper trailer towing equipment. If the vehicle is not equipped as stated above, do not tow a trailer. To identify the trailering capacity of the vehicle, read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this section. 4-34 Pulling A Trailer Here are some important points: There are many different laws, including speed limit restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure the rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you will be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police. (cid:129) Do not tow a trailer at all during the ﬁrst 500 miles (800 km) the new vehicle is driven. The engine, transmission or other parts could be damaged. Then, during the ﬁrst 500 miles (800 km) that a trailer is towed, do not drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and do not make starts at full throttle. This helps the engine and other parts of the vehicle wear in at the heavier loads. (cid:129) Obey speed limit restrictions when towing a trailer. Do not drive faster than the maximum posted speed for trailers, or no more than 55 mph (90 km/h), to save wear on the vehicle’s parts. (cid:129) Do not tow when the outside air temperature is above 100°F (38°C). (cid:129) Do not tow more than 1,000 miles (1 600 km) per year. Three important considerations have to do with weight: The weight of the trailer The weight of the trailer tongue The total weight on the vehicle’s tires Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It should never weigh more than 1,000 lbs (450 kg). But even that can be too heavy. It depends on how the rig is used. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much the vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. It can depend on any special equipment on the vehicle, and the amount of tongue weight the vehicle can carry. See “Weight of the Trailer Tongue” later in this section for more information. Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming only the driver is in the tow vehicle and it has all the required trailering equipment. The weight of additional optional equipment, passengers and cargo in the tow vehicle must be subtracted from the maximum trailer weight. Ask your dealer/retailer for our trailering information or advice, or write us at our Customer Assistance Offices. See Customer Assistance Offices on page 7-6 for more information. 4-35 (cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total gross weight of the vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo carried in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. If there are a lot of options, equipment, passengers or cargo in the vehicle, it will reduce the tongue weight the vehicle can carry, which will also reduce the trailer weight the vehicle can tow. If towing a trailer, the tongue load must be added to the GVW because the vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See Loading the Vehicle on page 4-25 for more information about the vehicle’s maximum load capacity. 4-36 If using a weight-carrying hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 10 to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B). Do not exceed the maximum allowable tongue weight for the vehicle. Choose the shortest hitch extension that will position the hitch ball closest to the vehicle. This will help reduce the effect of trailer tongue weight on the rear axle. After loading the trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they are not, adjustments might be made by moving some items around in the trailer. Trailering may be limited by the vehicle’s ability to carry tongue weight. Tongue weight cannot cause the vehicle to exceed the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) or the RGAWR (Rear Gross Axle Weight Rating). The effect of additional weight may reduce the trailering capacity more than the total of the additional weight. Consider the following example: A vehicle model base weight is 5,500 lbs (2 495 kg); 2,800 lbs (1 270 kg) at the front axle and 2,700 lbs (1 225 kg) at the rear axle. It has a GVWR of 7,200 lbs (3 266 kg), a RGAWR of 4,000 lbs (1 814 kg) and a GCWR (Gross Combination Weight Rating) of 14,000 lbs (6 350 kg). The trailer rating should be: If the vehicle has many options and there is a front seat passenger and two rear seat passengers with some luggage and gear in the vehicle as well. 300 lbs (136 kg) could be added to the front axle weight and 400 lbs (181 kg) to the rear axle weight. The vehicle now weighs: Expect tongue weight to be at least 10 percent of trailer weight (850 lbs (386 kg)) and because the weight is applied well behind the rear axle, the effect on the rear axle is greater than just the weight itself, as much as 1.5 times as much. The weight at the rear axle could be 850 lbs (386 kg) X 1.5 = 1,275 lbs (578 kg). Since the rear axle already weighs 2,700 lbs (1 225 kg), adding 1,275 lbs (578 kg) brings the total to 3,975 lbs (1 803 kg). This is very close to, but within the limit for RGAWR as well. The vehicle is set to trailer up to 8,500 lbs (3 856 kg). Weight is still below 7,200 lbs (3 266 kg) and you might think 700 additional pounds (318 kg) should be subtracted from the trailering capacity to stay within GCWR limits. The maximum trailer would only be 7,800 lbs (3 538 kg). You may go further and think the tongue weight should be limited to less than 1,000 lbs (454 kg) to avoid exceeding GVWR. But the effect on the rear axle must still be considered. Because the rear axle now weighs 3,100 lbs (1 406 kg), 900 lbs (408 kg) can be put on the rear axle without exceeding RGAWR. The effect of tongue weight is about 1.5 times the actual weight. Dividing the 900 lbs (408 kg) by 1.5 leaves only 600 lbs (272 kg) of tongue weight that can be handled. Since tongue weight is usually at least 10 percent of total loaded trailer weight, expect that the largest trailer the vehicle can properly handle is 6,000 lbs (2 721 kg). 4-37 It is important that the vehicle does not exceed any of its ratings — GCWR, GVWR, RGAWR, Maximum Trailer Rating or Tongue Weight. The only way to be sure it is not exceeding any of these ratings is to weigh the vehicle and trailer. Total Weight on the Vehicle’s Tires Be sure the vehicle’s tires are inﬂated to the upper limit for cold tires. These numbers can be found on the Tire-Loading Information label. See Loading the Vehicle on page 4-25. Make sure not to go over the GVW limit for the vehicle, or the GAWR, including the weight of the trailer tongue. Hitches It is important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a few reasons why the right hitch is needed. The rear bumper on the vehicle is not intended for hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or other bumper-type hitches to it. Use only a frame-mounted hitch that does not attach to the bumper. (cid:129) Will there be any holes in the body of the vehicle after installing a trailer hitch? If there are, then be sure to seal the holes later when the hitch is removed. If the holes are not sealed, deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from exhaust can get into the vehicle. See Engine Exhaust on page 2-37. Dirt and water can also enter the vehicle. 4-38 Safety Chains Always attach chains between the vehicle and the trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer to help prevent the tongue from contacting the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Always leave just enough slack so the rig can turn. Never allow safety chains to drag on the ground. Trailer Brakes A loaded trailer that weighs more than 1,500 lbs (680 kg) needs to have its own brake system that is adequate for the weight of the trailer. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so they are installed, adjusted and maintained properly. Driving with a Trailer Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Get to know the rig before setting out for the open road. Get acquainted with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now longer and not as responsive as the vehicle is by itself. Before starting, check all trailer hitch parts and attachments, safety chains, electrical connectors, lamps, tires and mirror adjustments. If the trailer has electric brakes, start the vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This checks the electrical connection at the same time. (cid:129) During the trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working. Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving the vehicle without a trailer. This can help to avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns. Passing More passing distance is needed when towing a trailer. Because the rig is longer, it is necessary to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before returning to the lane. Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you. Making Turns When turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so the trailer will not strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance. Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer The arrows on the instrument panel ﬂash whenever signaling a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps also ﬂash, telling other drivers the vehicle is turning, changing lanes or stopping. When towing a trailer, the arrows on the instrument panel ﬂash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. For this reason you may think other drivers are seeing the signal when they are not. It is important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working. 4-39 Driving on Grades Notice: Do not tow on steep continuous grades exceeding 6 miles (9.6 km). Extended, higher than normal engine and transmission temperatures may result and damage the vehicle. Frequent stops are very important to allow the engine and transmission to cool. When towing under severe conditions such as hot ambient temperatures or steep grades, the vehicle may experience more transmission shifting. A COOLING MODE ON message may also appear in the DIC. This alerts the driver that the shifting mode is in progress and is aiding engine cooling. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-50 DIC Warnings and Messages for more information. Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before starting down a long or steep downgrade. If the transmission is not shifted down, the brakes might have to be used so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. Pay attention to the engine coolant gage. If the indicator is in the red area, turn off the air conditioning to reduce engine load. See Engine Overheating on page 5-32. Parking on Hills { CAUTION: Parking the vehicle on a hill with the trailer attached can be dangerous. If something goes wrong, the rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both the vehicle and the trailer can be damaged. When possible, always park the rig on a ﬂat surface. If parking the rig on a hill: 1. Press the brake pedal, but do not shift into P (Park) yet. Turn the wheels into the curb if facing downhill or into traffic if facing uphill. 2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels. 3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the brake pedal until the chocks absorb the load. 4. Reapply the brake pedal. Then apply the parking brake and shift into P (Park). 5. Release the brake pedal. 4-40 Leaving After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply and hold the brake pedal while you: start the engine, shift into a gear, and release the parking brake. 2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks. 4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks. Maintenance When Trailer Towing The vehicle needs service more often when pulling a trailer. See this manual’s Maintenance Schedule or Index for more information. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transmission ﬂuid, engine oil, axle lubricant, belts, cooling system and brake system. It is a good idea to inspect these before and during the trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight. Engine Cooling When Trailer Towing The cooling system may temporarily overheat during severe operating conditions. See Engine Overheating on page 5-32. Towing a Trailer (Manual Transmission) Do not tow a trailer if the vehicle is equipped with a manual transmission. 4-41 (cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) ✍ NOTES 4-42 Section 5 Service and Appearance Care Service ............................................................5-3 Accessories and Modiﬁcations ..........................5-3 California Proposition 65 Warning .....................5-4 California Perchlorate Materials Requirements .....5-4 Doing Your Own Service Work .........................5-4 Adding Equipment to the Outside of the Vehicle .................................................5-5 Fuel ................................................................5-5 Gasoline Octane ............................................5-5 Gasoline Speciﬁcations ....................................5-6 California Fuel ...............................................5-6 Additives .......................................................5-6 Fuel E85 (85% Ethanol) ..................................5-7 Fuels in Foreign Countries ...............................5-8 Filling the Tank ..............................................5-9 Filling a Portable Fuel Container .....................5-12 Checking Things Under the Hood ....................5-12 Hood Release ..............................................5-13 Engine Compartment Overview .......................5-14 Engine Oil ...................................................5-17 Engine Oil Life System ..................................5-21 Engine Air Cleaner/Filter ................................5-23 Automatic Transmission Fluid .........................5-25 Manual Transmission Fluid .............................5-26 Hydraulic Clutch ...........................................5-26 Cooling System ............................................5-26 Engine Coolant .............................................5-27 Pressure Cap ...............................................5-32 Engine Overheating .......................................5-32 Windshield Washer Fluid ................................5-34 Brakes ........................................................5-35 Battery ........................................................5-38 Jump Starting ...............................................5-39 Headlamp Aiming ...........................................5-44 Bulb Replacement ..........................................5-47 Halogen Bulbs ..............................................5-47 Headlamps, Front Turn Signal, and Parking Lamps ..........................................5-47 Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) .........5-49 Taillamps, Turn Signal, Stoplamps and Back-up Lamps .........................................5-50 License Plate Lamp ......................................5-51 Replacement Bulbs .......................................5-51 Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement ..............5-52 Tires ..............................................................5-53 Tire Sidewall Labeling ...................................5-54 Tire Terminology and Deﬁnitions .....................5-58 Inﬂation - Tire Pressure .................................5-61 Tire Pressure Monitor System .........................5-62 Tire Pressure Monitor Operation .....................5-64 Tire Inspection and Rotation ...........................5-67 5-1 Section 5 Service and Appearance Care When It Is Time for New Tires .......................5-69 Buying New Tires .........................................5-70 Different Size Tires and Wheels ......................5-71 Uniform Tire Quality Grading ..........................5-72 Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance ..................5-73 Wheel Replacement ......................................5-73 Tire Chains ..................................................5-74 If a Tire Goes Flat ........................................5-75 Changing a Flat Tire .....................................5-76 Removing the Spare Tire and Tools ................5-77 Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire (All Models Except SS) ...............5-80 Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire (SS Model) ...............................5-85 Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools ............5-94 Compact Spare Tire ......................................5-98 Appearance Care ............................................5-99 Interior Cleaning ...........................................5-99 Fabric/Carpet ..............................................5-100 Leather ......................................................5-101 Instrument Panel, Vinyl, and Other Plastic Surfaces .......................................5-102 Care of Safety Belts ....................................5-102 Weatherstrips .............................................5-102 Washing Your Vehicle ..................................5-103 Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses ....................5-103 Finish Care ................................................5-104 Windshield and Wiper Blades .......................5-104 Aluminum or Chrome-Plated Wheels and Trim ................................................5-105 Tires .........................................................5-106 Sheet Metal Damage ...................................5-106 Finish Damage ...........................................5-106 Underbody Maintenance ...............................5-106 Chemical Paint Spotting ...............................5-106 Vehicle Identiﬁcation .....................................5-107 Vehicle Identiﬁcation Number (VIN) ................5-107 Service Parts Identiﬁcation Label ...................5-107 Electrical System ..........................................5-108 Add-On Electrical Equipment .........................5-108 Headlamp Wiring ........................................5-108 Windshield Wiper Fuses ...............................5-108 Power Windows and Other Power Options ......5-108 Fuses and Circuit Breakers ..........................5-109 Floor Console Fuse Block ............................5-109 Engine Compartment Fuse Block ...................5-111 Capacities and Speciﬁcations ........................5-114 5-2 Service For service and parts needs, visit your dealer/retailer. You will receive genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks: Accessories and Modiﬁcations When non-dealer/non-retailer accessories are added to the vehicle, they can affect vehicle performance and safety, including such things as airbags, braking, stability, ride and handling, emissions systems, aerodynamics, durability, and electronic systems like antilock brakes, traction control, and stability control. Some of these accessories could even cause malfunction or damage not covered by the vehicle warranty. Damage to vehicle components resulting from the installation or use of non-GM certiﬁed parts, including control module modiﬁcations, are not covered under the terms of the vehicle warranty and may affect remaining warranty coverage for affected parts. GM Accessories are designed to complement and function with other systems on the vehicle. Your GM dealer/retailer can accessorize the vehicle using genuine GM Accessories. When you go to your GM dealer/retailer and ask for GM Accessories, you will know that GM-trained and supported service technicians will perform the work using genuine GM Accessories. Also, see Adding Equipment to Your Airbag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-78. 5-3 California Proposition 65 Warning Most motor vehicles, including this one, contain and/or emit chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. Engine exhaust, many parts and systems (including some inside the vehicle), many ﬂuids, and some component wear by-products contain and/or emit these chemicals. California Perchlorate Materials Requirements Certain types of automotive applications, such as airbag initiators, seat belt pretensioners, and lithium batteries contained in remote keyless transmitters, may contain perchlorate materials. Special handling may be necessary. For additional information, see www.dtsc.ca.gov/hazardouswaste/perchlorate. 5-4 Doing Your Own Service Work { CAUTION: You can be injured and the vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it. (cid:129) Be sure you have sufficient knowledge, experience, the proper replacement parts, and tools before attempting any vehicle maintenance task. (cid:129) Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts, and other fasteners. English and metric fasteners can be easily confused. If the wrong fasteners are used, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt. If doing some of your own service work, use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service the vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 7-17. This vehicle has an airbag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see Servicing Your Airbag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-77. Keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work performed. See Maintenance Record on page 6-18. Adding Equipment to the Outside of the Vehicle Things added to the outside of the vehicle can affect the airﬂow around it. This can cause wind noise and can affect fuel economy and windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer/retailer before adding equipment to the outside of the vehicle. Fuel Use of the recommended fuel is an important part of the proper maintenance of this vehicle. To help keep the engine clean and maintain optimum vehicle performance, we recommend the use of gasoline advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. The 8th digit of the Vehicle Identiﬁcation Number (VIN) shows the code letter or number that identiﬁes the vehicle’s engine. The VIN is at the top left of the instrument panel. See Vehicle Identiﬁcation Number (VIN) on page 5-107. If the vehicle has the 2.2L L4 engine (VIN Code B) or the 2.4L L4 engine (VIN Code V), you can use either unleaded gasoline or ethanol fuel containing up to 85% ethanol (E85). See Fuel E85 (85% Ethanol) on page 5-7. If the vehicle has the 2.0L L4 engine (VIN Code X), use only unleaded gasoline. See Gasoline Octane on page 5-5. Gasoline Octane If the vehicle has the 2.2L L4 engine (VIN Code B), use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 87 or higher. If the octane rating is less than 87, you might notice an audible knocking noise when you drive, commonly referred to as spark knock. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. If you are using gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, the engine needs service. If the vehicle has the 2.4L L4 engine (VIN Code V) or the 2.0L L4 engine (VIN Code X), use premium unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 91 or higher. You can also use regular unleaded gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher, but the vehicle’s acceleration could be slightly reduced, and you might notice a slight audible knocking noise, commonly referred to as spark knock. If the octane is less than 87, you might notice a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. Otherwise, you could damage the engine. If you are using gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, the engine needs service. 5-5 Gasoline Speciﬁcations At a minimum, gasoline should meet ASTM speciﬁcation D 4814 in the United States or CAN/CGSB-3.5 or 3.511 in Canada. Some gasolines contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT). We recommend against the use of gasolines containing MMT. See Additives on page 5-6 for additional information. California Fuel If the vehicle is certiﬁed to meet California Emissions Standards, it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California speciﬁcations. See the underhood emission control label. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, the vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal speciﬁcations, but emission control system performance might be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp could turn on and the vehicle might fail a smog-check test. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-37. If this occurs, return to your authorized dealer/retailer for diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs might not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Additives To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing the emission control system to work properly. In most cases, you should not have to add anything to the fuel. However, some gasolines contain only the minimum amount of additive required to meet U.S. Environmental Protection Agency regulations. To help keep fuel injectors and intake valves clean, or if the vehicle experiences problems due to dirty injectors or valves, look for gasoline that is advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. For customers who do not use TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline regularly, one bottle of GM Fuel System Treatment PLUS, added to the fuel tank at every engine oil change, can help clean deposits from fuel injectors and intake valves. GM Fuel System Treatment PLUS is the only gasoline additive recommended by General Motors. Also, your dealer/retailer has additives that will help correct and prevent most deposit-related problems. 5-6 Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines might be available in your area. We recommend that you use these gasolines, if they comply with the speciﬁcations described earlier. However, E85 (85% ethanol) and other fuels containing more than 10% ethanol must not be used in vehicles that were not designed for those fuels. Notice: This vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in the fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under the vehicle warranty. Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions can contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT. We recommend against the use of such gasolines. Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system could be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp might turn on. If this occurs, return to your dealer/retailer for service. Fuel E85 (85% Ethanol) The 8th digit of the Vehicle Identiﬁcation Number (VIN) shows the code letter or number that identiﬁes the vehicle’s engine. The VIN is at the top left of the instrument panel. See Vehicle Identiﬁcation Number (VIN) on page 5-107. If your vehicle has the 2.2L L4 engine (VIN Code B) or the 2.4L L4 engine (VIN Code V), you can use either unleaded gasoline or ethanol fuel containing up to 85% ethanol (E85). See Fuel on page 5-5. In all other engines, use only the unleaded gasoline described under Gasoline Octane on page 5-5. Only vehicles that have the 2.2L L4 engine (VIN Code B) or the 2.4L L4 engine (VIN Code V) can use 85% ethanol fuel (E85). We encourage the use of E85 in vehicles that are designed to use it. The ethanol in E85 is a “renewable” fuel, meaning it is made from renewable sources such as corn and other crops. Many service stations will not have an 85% ethanol fuel (E85) pump available. The U. S. Department of Energy has an alternative fuels website (www.eere.energy.gov/afdc/infrastructure/locator.html) that can help you ﬁnd E85 fuel. Those stations that do have E85 should have a label indicating ethanol content. Do not use the fuel if the ethanol content is greater than 85%. 5-7 At a minimum, E85 should meet ASTM Speciﬁcation D 5798. By deﬁnition, this means that fuel labeled E85 will have an ethanol content between 70% and 85%. Filling the fuel tank with fuel mixtures that do not meet ASTM speciﬁcations can affect driveability and could cause the malfunction indicator lamp to come on. To ensure quick starts in the wintertime, the E85 fuel must be formulated properly for your climate according to ASTM speciﬁcation D 5798. If you have trouble starting on E85, it could be because the E85 fuel is not properly formulated for your climate. If this happens, switching to gasoline or adding gasoline to the fuel tank can improve starting. For good starting and heater efficiency below 32°F (0°C), the fuel mix in the fuel tank should contain no more than 70% ethanol. It is best not to alternate repeatedly between gasoline and E85. If you do switch fuels, it is recommended that you add as much fuel as possible — do not add less than three gallons (11 L) when refueling. You should drive the vehicle immediately after refueling for at least seven miles (11 km) to allow the vehicle to adapt to the change in ethanol concentration. E85 has less energy per gallon than gasoline, so you will need to reﬁll the fuel tank more often when using E85 than when you are using gasoline. See Filling the Tank on page 5-9. Notice: Some additives are not compatible with E85 fuel and can harm the vehicle’s fuel system. Do not add anything to E85. Damage caused by additives would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Notice: This vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in the fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under the vehicle warranty. Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel might be hard to ﬁnd. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. To check the fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you will be driving. 5-8 Filling the Tank { CAUTION: Fuel vapor burns violently and a fuel ﬁre can cause bad injuries. To help avoid injuries to you and others, read and follow all the instructions on the pump island. Turn off the engine when you are refueling. Do not smoke if you are near fuel or refueling the vehicle. Do not use cellular phones. Keep sparks, ﬂames, and smoking materials away from fuel. Do not leave the fuel pump unattended when refueling the vehicle. This is against the law in some places. Do not re-enter the vehicle while pumping fuel. Keep children away from the fuel pump; never let children pump fuel. To open the fuel door, push the rearward center edge in and release and it will open. 5-9 To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly counterclockwise. The fuel cap has a spring in it; if the cap is released too soon, it will spring back to the right. While refueling, hang the tethered fuel cap from the hook on the fuel door. { CAUTION: Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. If you spill fuel and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. This spray can happen if the tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any hiss noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way. Be careful not to spill fuel. Do not top off or overﬁll the tank and wait a few seconds after you have ﬁnished pumping before removing the nozzle. Clean fuel from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-103. The tethered fuel cap is located behind a hinged fuel door on the passenger side of the vehicle. If the vehicle has E85 fuel capability, the fuel cap will be yellow and state that E85 or gasoline can be used. See Fuel E85 (85% Ethanol) on page 5-7. 5-10 When replacing the fuel cap, turn it clockwise until it clicks. Make sure the cap is fully installed. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-37. The CHECK GAS CAP message displays on the Driver Information Center (DIC) if the fuel cap is not properly installed. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-50 for more information. To close the fuel door securely, push the door to the closed position. { CAUTION: If a ﬁre starts while you are refueling, do not remove the nozzle. Shut off the ﬂow of fuel by shutting off the pump or by notifying the station attendant. Leave the area immediately. If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get Notice: the right type. Your dealer/retailer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not ﬁt properly. This may cause the malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage the fuel tank and emissions system. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-37. 5-11 Filling a Portable Fuel Container { CAUTION: Never ﬁll a portable fuel container while it is in the vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the fuel vapor. You can be badly burned and the vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others: (cid:129) Dispense fuel only into approved containers. (cid:129) Do not ﬁll a container while it is inside a vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed, or on any surface other than the ground. (cid:129) Bring the ﬁll nozzle in contact with the inside of the ﬁll opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the ﬁlling is complete. (cid:129) Do not smoke while pumping fuel. (cid:129) Do not use a cellular phone while pumping fuel. Checking Things Under the Hood { CAUTION: An electric fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan. { CAUTION: Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a ﬁre. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake ﬂuid, windshield washer and other ﬂuids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine. 5-12 Hood Release To open the hood, do the following. 1. Pull the interior hood release lever with this symbol on it. It is located to the left of the instrument panel on the driver’s side of the vehicle. 2. Then go to the front of the vehicle and push the secondary hood release lever to the left. It is located under the front center of the grille. 3. After you have partially lifted the hood, gas struts will automatically take over to lift and hold the hood in the fully open position. Before closing the hood, be sure all the ﬁller caps are on properly. Lower the hood until the lifting force of the struts is reduced, then release the hood to latch fully. Check to make sure the hood is closed and repeat the process if necessary. 5-13 Engine Compartment Overview When you open the hood on the 2.4L engine (2.2L engine similar), here is what you will see: 5-14 A. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-34. B. Pressure Cap. See Pressure Cap on page 5-32. C. Coolant Recovery Tank. See “Checking Coolant” under Engine Coolant on page 5-27. D. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air Cleaner/Filter on page 5-23. E. Electric Engine Cooling Fan (Out of View). See Cooling System Cooling System on page 5-26. F. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 5-17. G. Engine Oil Dipstick (Out of View). See “Checking Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 5-17. H. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See Brakes on page 5-35 and Hydraulic Clutch on page 5-26. I. Remote Positive (+) Terminal. See Jump Starting on page 5-39. J. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. See Engine Compartment Fuse Block on page 5-111. K. Remote Negative (−) Terminal (Out of View). See Jump Starting on page 5-39. 5-15 When you open the hood on the 2.0L L4 engine, this is what you will see: 5-16 A. Pressure Cap. See Pressure Cap on page 5-32. B. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air Cleaner/Filter on page 5-23. C. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-34. D. Coolant Recovery Tank. See “Checking Coolant” under Engine Coolant on page 5-27. E. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 5-17. F. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 5-17. G. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid” under Brakes on page 5-35 and Hydraulic Clutch on page 5-26. H. Underhood Fuse Block. See Engine Compartment Fuse Block on page 5-111. I. Remote Negative (−) Terminal. See Jump Starting on page 5-39. J. Remote Positive (+) Terminal. See Jump Starting on page 5-39. Engine Oil Checking Engine Oil It is a good idea to check the engine oil level at each fuel ﬁll. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground. The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for the location of the engine oil dipstick. 1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If this is not done, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level. 2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level. 5-17 When to Add Engine Oil If the oil is below the MIN (minimum) mark, add at least one quart/liter of the recommended oil. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Speciﬁcations on page 5-114. Notice: Do not add too much oil. If the engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the upper mark that shows the proper operating range, the engine could be damaged. 2.2L L4 Engine and 2.4L L4 Engine 2.0L L4 Engine See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for the location of the engine oil ﬁll cap. Add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when through. 5-18 What Kind of Engine Oil to Use For Vehicles With the 2.2L or 2.4L L4 Engine Look for three things: (cid:129) GM6094M Use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM6094M. (cid:129) SAE 5W-30 SAE 5W-30 is best for the vehicle. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50. (cid:129) American Petroleum Institute (API) starburst symbol Oils meeting these requirements should have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certiﬁed by the American Petroleum Institute (API). Notice: Use only engine oil identiﬁed as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and showing the American Petroleum Institute Certiﬁed For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by the vehicle warranty. 5-19 For Vehicles with the 2.0L L4 Engine Only Look for three things: Notice: Using oils that do not have the GM4718M Standard designation can cause engine damage not covered by the vehicle warranty. (cid:129) SAE 5W-30 SAE 5W-30 is best for the vehicle. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50. (cid:129) American Petroleum Institute (API) starburst symbol Oils meeting these requirements should have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certiﬁed by the American Petroleum Institute (API). (cid:129) GM4718M This vehicle’s engine requires a special oil meeting GM Standard GM4718M, such as Mobil 1® or equivalent. Oils meeting this standard may be identiﬁed as synthetic. However, not all synthetic oils will meet this GM standard. Use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM4718M. This vehicle’s engine was ﬁlled at the factory with a synthetic oil meeting all requirements for this vehicle. Substitute Engine Oil: When adding oil to maintain engine oil level, oil meeting GM Standard GM4718M might not be available. You can add substitute oil designated SAE 5W-30 with the starburst symbol at all temperatures. Substitute oil not meeting GM Standard GM4718M should not be used for an oil change. 5-20 Cold Temperature Operation For Vehicles With the 2.2L or 2.4L L4 Engine If in an area of extreme cold, where the temperature falls below −20°F (−29°C), use either an SAE 5W-30 synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 engine oil. Both provide easier cold starting for the engine at extremely low temperatures. Always use an oil that meets the required speciﬁcation, GM6094M. See “What Kind of Engine Oil to Use” for more information. Engine Oil Additives/Engine Oil Flushes Do not add anything to the oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol that meet GM standards are all that is needed for good performance and engine protection. Engine oil system ﬂushes are not recommended and could cause engine damage not covered by the vehicle warranty. Engine Oil Life System When to Change Engine Oil This vehicle has the Engine Oil Life System, a computer system that indicates when to change the engine oil and ﬁlter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change is indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, the system must be reset every time the oil is changed. When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it indicates that an oil change is necessary. A CHANGE OIL SOON message comes on. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-50. Change the oil as soon as possible within the next 600 miles (1 000 km). It is possible that, if driving under the best conditions, the oil life system might not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, the engine oil and ﬁlter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. Your dealer/retailer has trained service people who will perform this work using genuine parts and reset the system. It is also important to check the oil regularly and keep it at the proper level. If the system is ever reset accidentally, the oil must be changed at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since the last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed. 5-21 How to Reset the Engine Oil Life System The Engine Oil Life System calculates when to change your engine oil and ﬁlter based on vehicle use. Whenever the oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where the oil is changed prior to a CHANGE OIL SOON message being turned on, reset the system. After changing the engine oil, the system must be reset: 1. Turn the ignition to ON/RUN, with the engine off. 2. Press the information and reset buttons on the Driver Information Center (DIC) at the same time to enter the personalization menu. See DIC Vehicle Personalization on page 3-56. 3. Press the information button to scroll through the available personalization menu modes until the DIC display shows OIL-LIFE RESET. 4. Press and hold the reset button until the DIC display shows ACKNOWLEDGED. This will tell you the system has been reset. 5. Turn the key to LOCK/OFF. For vehicles with the 2.2L (VIN code V) or 2.4L (VIN code B) engines, you can also reset the system as follows: 1. Turn the ignition key to ON/RUN with the engine off. 2. Fully press and release the accelerator pedal slowly three times within ﬁve seconds. 3. Turn the key to LOCK/OFF, then start the engine. If the CHANGE OIL SOON message comes back on when the vehicle is started, the engine oil life system has not reset. Repeat the reset procedure. What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that can be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. 5-22 Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the ﬁlter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter When to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Inspect the air cleaner/ﬁlter at the Maintenance II intervals and replace it at the ﬁrst oil change after each 50,000 mile (80 000 km) interval. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 for more information. If you are driving in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect the ﬁlter at each engine oil change. The 2.0L engine inspect at each oil change. Replace ﬁlter if appears dusty or dirty. How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter (2.2L and 2.4L Engines) See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for the location of the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter. To inspect the air cleaner/ﬁlter remove the ﬁlter from the vehicle and lightly shake the ﬁlter to release loose dust and dirt. If the ﬁlter remains caked with dirt, a new ﬁlter is required. Never use compressed air to clean the ﬁlter. Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealer/retailer service department. 5-23 How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter (2.0L Engine Only) To inspect or replace the ﬁlter, do the following: 1. Disconnect the Mass Air Flow sensor, PCV hose, and both ducts. 2. Pull the entire system from the top of the engine. 3. Turn the system over and place it on a soft, non-abrasive surface. 4. Remove the screws that hold the housing and cover together and lift off the housing. 5. Inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter. 6. Reverse the steps to reinstall the system. Be sure to reinstall the housing tightly. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for the location of the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter. To inspect the air cleaner/ﬁlter remove the ﬁlter from the vehicle and lightly shake the ﬁlter to release loose dust and dirt. If the ﬁlter remains caked with dirt, a new ﬁlter is required. Never use compressed air to clean the ﬁlter. Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealer/retailer service department. 5-24 To inspect or replace the ﬁlter, do the following: 1. Remove the screws that hold the housing and cover together and lift off the cover. 2. Inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter. 3. Reverse the steps to reinstall the system. Be sure to reinstall the housing tightly. { CAUTION: Operating the engine with the air cleaner/ﬁlter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps to stop ﬂames if the engine backﬁres. If it is not there and the engine backﬁres, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/ﬁlter off. If the air cleaner/ﬁlter is off, a backﬁre can Notice: cause a damaging engine ﬁre. And, dirt can easily get into the engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/ﬁlter in place when you are driving. Automatic Transmission Fluid It is not necessary to check the transmission ﬂuid level. A transmission ﬂuid leak is the only reason for ﬂuid loss. If a leak occurs, take your vehicle to a dealer/retailer and have it repaired as soon as possible. Change the ﬂuid and ﬁlter at the intervals listed in the Maintenance Schedule. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4. Be sure to use the transmission ﬂuid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-14. Notice: Use of the incorrect automatic transmission ﬂuid may damage the vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by the vehicle’s warranty. Always use the automatic transmission ﬂuid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-14. 5-25 Manual Transmission Fluid It is not necessary to check the manual transmission ﬂuid level. A transmission ﬂuid leak is the only reason for ﬂuid loss. If a leak occurs, take the vehicle to a dealer/retailer for service. Have it repaired as soon as possible. You may also have the ﬂuid level checked by your dealer/ retailer when the oil is changed. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-14 for the proper ﬂuid to use. Hydraulic Clutch The hydraulic clutch linkage in your vehicle is self-adjusting. This system does not have its own reservoir. It receives ﬂuid from the brake master cylinder reservoir. See Brakes on page 5-35 for more information. 5-26 Cooling System The Cooling System allows the engine to maintain the correct working temperature. A. Pressure Cap B. Coolant Recovery Tank C. Electric Engine Cooling Fan { CAUTION: An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can cause injury. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan. { CAUTION: Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine ﬁre, and you could be burned. Get any leak ﬁxed before you drive the vehicle. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® can cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant could require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs ﬁrst. Any repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in the vehicle. Engine Coolant The cooling system in the vehicle is ﬁlled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in the vehicle for ﬁve years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs ﬁrst. The following explains the cooling system and how to check and add coolant when it is low. If there is a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating on page 5-32. 5-27 What to Use { CAUTION: Adding only plain water to the cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. The vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, the engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. The engine could catch ﬁre and you or

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2009 Chevrolet HHR Owners Manual