2007 Chevrolet HHR Owners Manual

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is completely full. (cid:127) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint. Brakes Brake Fluid Your brake master cylinder reservoir is ﬁlled with DOT-3 brake ﬂuid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 298 for the location of the reservoir. There are only two reasons why the brake ﬂuid level in the reservoir might go down. The ﬁrst is that the brake ﬂuid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the ﬂuid level goes back up. The other reason is that ﬂuid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system ﬁxed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes will not work well, or will not work at all. 317 So, it is not a good idea to top off your brake ﬂuid. Adding brake ﬂuid will not correct a leak. If you add ﬂuid when your linings are worn, then you will have too much ﬂuid when you get new brake linings. You should add or remove brake ﬂuid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. {CAUTION: If your vehicle has too much brake ﬂuid, it can spill on the engine. The ﬂuid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake ﬂuid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. Brake Wear Your vehicle has front disc brakes and rear drum brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving, except when you are pushing on the brake pedal ﬁrmly. {CAUTION: The brake wear warning sound means that soon the brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced. When your brake ﬂuid falls to a low level, your brake warning light will come on. See Brake System Warning Light on page 185. Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair. 318 Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are ﬁrst applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM torque speciﬁcations. Your rear drum brakes do not have wear indicators, but if you ever hear a rear brake rubbing noise, have the rear brake linings inspected immediately. Also, the rear brake drums should be removed and inspected each time the tires are removed for rotation or changing. When you have the front brake pads replaced, have the rear brakes inspected, too. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you apply the brakes, with or without the vehicle moving, your brakes adjust for wear. Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system — for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you do not, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance you have come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts. 319 Battery Your vehicle has a maintenance free battery. When it is time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco® replacement battery. Your vehicle’s battery is located in the trunk. You do not need to access the battery to jump start your vehicle. See Jump Starting on page 320. Warning: Battery posts, terminals, and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling. Vehicle Storage If you are not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down. {CAUTION: Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 320 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt. Jump Starting If your vehicle’s battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely. 320 {CAUTION: Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because: (cid:127) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:127) They contain gas that can explode or (cid:127) They contain enough electricity to ignite. burn you. If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you. Ignoring these steps could result in Notice: costly damage to your vehicle that would not be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage your vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt battery with a negative ground system. If the other vehicle’s system is not a Notice: 12-volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake ﬁrmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transaxle in PARK (P) or a manual transaxle in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake. 321 Notice: If you leave your radio or other accessories on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and other accessories when jump starting your vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or the accessory power outlet. Turn off the radio and all lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save the radio! 4. Open the hood on the other vehicle and locate the positive (+) and negative (−) terminal locations on that vehicle. You will not see the battery of your vehicle under the hood. It is located in the trunk. You will not need to access your battery for jump starting. Your vehicle has a remote positive (+) and a remote negative (−) jump starting terminal. 322 The remote positive terminal is located under a red tethered cap on the engine compartment fuse block. Remove the cap to access the terminal. The remote negative (−) ground terminal, marked GND (−), is located at the front of the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle. {CAUTION: CAUTION: (Continued) An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan. {CAUTION: Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a ﬂashlight if you need more light. CAUTION: (Continued) Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has ﬁller caps, be sure the right amount of ﬂuid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that ﬁrst. If you don’t, explosive gas could be present. Battery ﬂuid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, ﬂush the place with water and get medical help immediately. 323 Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks. 6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal location on the vehicle with the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. {CAUTION: Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running. 5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. 324 7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. 8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery. 9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal location on the vehicle with the dead battery. Your vehicle has a remote negative (−) ground terminal marked GND (−). 10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run the engine for a while. 11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery. If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service. 325 To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the vehicle that had the dead battery. 2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the vehicle with the good battery. 3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the vehicle with the good battery. 4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other vehicle. 5. Return the positive (+) terminal cover to its original position. Notice: If the jumper cables are connected or removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always connect and remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal. Jumper Cable Removal A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or Remote Negative (−) Terminal (GND) B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and Remote Negative (−) Terminals C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal 326 Headlamp Aiming The vehicle has a visual optical headlamp aiming system. The aim has been preset at the factory and should need no further adjustment. However, if the vehicle is damaged in an accident, the headlamp aim may be affected and adjustment may be necessary. If oncoming vehicles ﬂash their high beams at you, this may also mean the vertical aim needs to be adjusted. It is recommended that the vehicle is taken to your dealer for service if the headlamps need to be re-aimed. It is possible however, to re-aim the headlamps as described in the following procedure. The vehicle should be properly prepared as follows: (cid:127) The vehicle should be placed so the headlamps are 25 ft. (7.6 m) from a light colored wall. (cid:127) The vehicle must have all four tires on a level surface which is level all the way to the wall. (cid:127) The vehicle should be placed so it is perpendicular to the wall or other ﬂat surface. (cid:127) The vehicle should not have any snow, ice, or mud on it. (cid:127) The vehicle should be fully assembled and all other work stopped while headlamp aiming is being performed. (cid:127) The vehicle should be normally loaded with a full tank of fuel and one person or 160 lbs (75 kg) sitting on the driver’s seat. (cid:127) Tires should be properly inﬂated. (cid:127) The spare tire is in its original location in the vehicle. Headlamp aiming is done with the vehicle’s low-beam headlamps. The high-beam headlamps will be correctly aimed if the low-beam headlamps are aimed properly. 327 To adjust the vertical aim, do the following: 1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on page 297 for more information. 2. Find the aim dot on the lens of the low-beam headlamp. 3. Measure the distance from the ground to the aim dot on the low-beam headlamp. Record the distance. 4. At the wall measure from the ground upward (A) to the recorded distance from Step 3 and mark it. 5. Draw or tape a horizontal line (B) on the wall the width of the vehicle at the height of the mark in Step 4. Notice: Do not cover a headlamp to improve beam cut-off when aiming. Covering a headlamp may cause excessive heat build-up which may cause damage to the headlamp. 328 6. Turn on the low-beam headlamps and place a piece of cardboard or equivalent in front of the headlamp not being adjusted. Do not place directly on the headlamp. This allows only the beam of light from the headlamp being adjusted to be seen on the ﬂat surface. 8. Turn the vertical aiming screw until the headlamp beam is aimed to the horizontal tape line. Turn it clockwise or counterclockwise to raise or lower the angle of the beam. Driver’s Side Shown 7. Locate the vertical headlamp aiming screws, which are under the hood near each headlamp assembly. The adjustment screw can be turned with a 6 mm hex socket. The top edge of the cut-off should be positioned at the bottom edge of the horizontal tape line. 9. Make sure that the light from the headlamp is positioned at the bottom edge of the horizontal tape line. The lamp on the left (A) shows the correct headlamp aim. The lamp on the right (B) shows the incorrect headlamp aim. 10. Repeat Steps 7 through 9 for the opposite headlamp. 329 Headlamps, Front Turn Signal, and Parking Lamps Bulb Replacement For the proper type of replacement bulbs, see Replacement Bulbs on page 334. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer. Halogen Bulbs {CAUTION: Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package. A. Headlamp B. Turn Signal/Parking Lamp 330 To replace the headlamp, turn signal, or parking lamp bulb, do the following: 1. Turn the wheel to access the wheel well. 5. Pull the old bulb out of the socket. 6. Install a new bulb. 7. Reverse Steps 1 through 4 to reinstall. Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) To replace the center high-mounted stoplamp bulb, do the following: 1. Open the liftgate. See Liftgate on page 106 for more information. 2. Remove the fasteners to access the headlamp and the turn signal/parking lamp bulbs. 3. Reach in behind the wheel well liner and locate the bulb you need to change. 4. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise to remove. 2. Remove the center trim located near the top of the liftgate. 331 3. Locate the bulb assembly. 4. Locate the bulb you wish to change. 5. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise to remove. Taillamps, Turn Signal, Stoplamps and Back-up Lamps 6. Pull the bulb straight out of the socket. 7. Install a new bulb. 8. Reverse the steps to reinstall. A. Stoplamp/Taillamp/Turn Signal B. Back-up 332 To replace one of these bulbs, do the following: 1. Open the liftgate. See Liftgate on page 106 for more information. 3. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and pull it out of the lamp housing. 4. Pull the bulb straight out of the socket. 5. Install a new bulb. When installing the bulb socket into the assembly, line up the tabs with the slots in the bulb assembly. 6. Reverse the steps to reinstall. 2. Remove the cover in the rear cargo area of the vehicle to access the bulbs. 333 3. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and pull the bulb straight out of the socket. 4. Install the new bulb. 5. Reverse Steps 1 through 3 to reinstall the license plate lamp. Replacement Bulbs Exterior Lamp Bulb Number Back-up Lamp and CHMSL Front Turn Signal and Parking Lamp Headlamp High/Low-Beam Stoplamp/Taillamp/Turn Signal 921 3157KX H13 3057KX For replacement bulbs not listed here, contact your dealer. License Plate Lamp To replace one of these bulbs, do the following: 1. Remove the two screws holding each of the license plate lamps to the fascia. 2. Turn and pull the license plate lamp forward through the fascia opening. 334 Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected for wear or cracking. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 393 for more information on wiper blade inspection. Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. For the proper type and length, see Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 405. Here’s how to remove the wiper blade: 1. Pull the windshield wiper arm away from the windshield. 2. While holding the wiper arm, lift the clip up from the blade connecting point, and pull the blade assembly down toward the windshield to remove it from the wiper arm. 3. Install the new wiper blade on the wiper arm and press down on the clip to snap it into place. Backglass Wiper Blade Replacement 1. Remove the protective cap from the wiper arm. If the protective cap is not removed before lifting the wiper arm, the wiper arm could be damaged. 2. Pull the wiper arm away from the backglass and into the service position. 3. Rotate the wiper blade, and pull down on it to remove it from the wiper arm. 4. Install the new wiper blade, then set the wiper arm back into its original position and replace the protective cap. 335 Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your GM Warranty booklet for details. For additional information refer to the tire manufacturer’s booklet included with your vehicle. {CAUTION: Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous. (cid:127) Overloading your vehicle’s tires can cause overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 269. CAUTION: (Continued) CAUTION: (Continued) (cid:127) Underinﬂated tires pose the same danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your vehicle’s tires are cold. See Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 344. (cid:127) Overinﬂated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured, or broken by a sudden impact — such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure. (cid:127) Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If the tire’s tread is badly worn, or if your vehicle’s tires have been damaged, replace them. 336 Tire Sidewall Labeling Useful information about a tire is molded into its sidewall. The examples below show a typical passenger vehicle tire and a compact spare tire sidewall. Passenger (P-Metric) Tire Example (A) Tire Size: The tire size is a combination of letters and numbers used to deﬁne a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type, and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail. (B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Speciﬁcation): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s speciﬁc tire performance criteria have a TPC speciﬁcation code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC speciﬁcations meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines. (C) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards. 337 (D) Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT (Department of Transportation) code is the Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (E) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (F) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction, and temperature resistance. For more information see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 350. (G) Maximum Cold Inﬂation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. 338 Compact Spare Tire Example (A) Temporary Use Only: The compact spare tire or temporary use tire has a tread life of approximately 3,000 miles (5 000 km) and should not be driven at speeds over 65 mph (105 km/h). The compact spare tire is for emergency use when a regular road tire has lost air and gone ﬂat. If your vehicle has a compact spare tire, see Compact Spare Tire on page 369 and If a Tire Goes Flat on page 354. (B) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (C) Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following the DOT (Department of Transportation) code is the Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (D) Maximum Cold Inﬂation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. (E) Tire Inﬂation: The temporary use tire or compact spare tire should be inﬂated to 60 psi (420 kPa). For more information on tire pressure and inﬂation see Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 344. (F) Tire Size: A combination of letters and numbers deﬁne a tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type, and service description. The letter T as the ﬁrst character in the tire size means the tire is for temporary use only. (G) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Speciﬁcation): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s speciﬁc tire performance criteria have a TPC speciﬁcation code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC speciﬁcations meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines. Tire Size The following illustration shows an example of a typical passenger vehicle tire size. (A) Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter P as the ﬁrst character in the tire size means a passenger vehicle tire engineered to standards set by the U.S. Tire and Rim Association. 339 (B) Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall. (C) Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is 60, as shown in item C of the illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is 60 percent as high as it is wide. (D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter R means radial ply construction; the letter D means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter B means belted-bias ply construction. (E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches. (F) Service Description: These characters represent the load range and speed rating of the tire. The load index represents the load carry capacity a tire is certiﬁed to carry. The load index can range from 1 to 279. The speed rating is the maximum speed a tire is certiﬁed to carry a load. Speed ratings range from A to Z. Tire Terminology and Deﬁnitions Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa). Accessory Weight: This means the combined weight of optional accessories. Some examples of optional accessories are, automatic transmission/transaxle, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air conditioning. 340 Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire’s height to its width. Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials. Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim. Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the plies are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. Cold Tire Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up heat from driving. See Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 344. Curb Weight: This means the weight of a motor vehicle with standard and optional equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil, and coolant, but without passengers and cargo. DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand, and date of production. GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 269. GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front axle. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 269. GAWR RR: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 269. Intended Outboard Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire, that must always face outward when mounted on a vehicle. Kilopascal (kPa): The metric unit for air pressure. 341 Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: A tire used on light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles. Load Index: An assigned number ranging from 1 to 279 that corresponds to the load carrying capacity of a tire. Maximum Inﬂation Pressure: The maximum air pressure to which a cold tire may be inﬂated. The maximum air pressure is molded onto the sidewall. Maximum Load Rating: The load rating for a tire at the maximum permissible inﬂation pressure for that tire. Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight: The sum of curb weight, accessory weight, vehicle capacity weight, and production options weight. Normal Occupant Weight: The number of occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 269. Occupant Distribution: Designated seating positions. Outward Facing Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that faces outward when mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears white lettering, or bears manufacturer, brand, and/or model name molding that is higher or deeper than the same moldings on the other sidewall of the tire. Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: A tire used on passenger cars and some light duty trucks and multipurpose vehicles. Recommended Inﬂation Pressure: Vehicle manufacturer’s recommended tire inﬂation pressure as shown on the tire placard. See Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 344 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 269. 342 Radial Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. Rim: A metal support for a tire and upon which the tire beads are seated. Sidewall: The portion of a tire between the tread and the bead. Speed Rating: An alphanumeric code assigned to a tire indicating the maximum speed at which a tire can operate. Traction: The friction between the tire and the road surface. The amount of grip provided. Tread: The portion of a tire that comes into contact with the road. Treadwear Indicators: Narrow bands, sometimes called wear bars, that show across the tread of a tire when only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) of tread remains. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 347. UTQGS (Uniform Tire Quality Grading Standards): A tire information system that provides consumers with ratings for a tire’s traction, temperature, and treadwear. Ratings are determined by tire manufacturers using government testing procedures. The ratings are molded into the sidewall of the tire. See Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 350. Vehicle Capacity Weight: The number of designated seating positions multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg) plus the rated cargo load. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 269. Vehicle Maximum Load on the Tire: Load on an individual tire due to curb weight, accessory weight, occupant weight, and cargo weight. Vehicle Placard: A label permanently attached to a vehicle showing the vehicle’s capacity weight and the original equipment tire size and recommended inﬂation pressure. See “Tire and Loading Information Label” under Loading Your Vehicle on page 269. 343 A Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar). This label shows your vehicle’s original equipment tires and the correct inﬂation pressures for your tires when they are cold. The recommended cold tire inﬂation pressure, shown on the label, is the minimum amount of air pressure needed to support your vehicle’s maximum load carrying capacity. For additional information regarding how much weight your vehicle can carry, and an example of the Tire and Loading Information label, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 269. How you load your vehicle affects vehicle handling and ride comfort. Never load your vehicle with more weight than it was designed to carry. Inﬂation - Tire Pressure Tires need the correct amount of air pressure to operate effectively. Notice: Do not let anyone tell you that under-inﬂation or over-inﬂation is all right. It is not. If your tires do not have enough air (under-inﬂation), you can get the following: (cid:127) Too much ﬂexing (cid:127) Too much heat (cid:127) Tire overloading (cid:127) Premature or irregular wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Reduced fuel economy If your tires have too much air (over-inﬂation), you can get the following: (cid:127) Unusual wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Rough ride (cid:127) Needless damage from road hazards 344 When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Do not forget to check the compact spare tire, it should be at 60 psi (420 kPa). For additional information regarding the compact spare tire, see Compact Spare Tire on page 369. How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You cannot tell if your tires are properly inﬂated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inﬂated even when they are under-inﬂated. Check the tire’s inﬂation pressure when the tires are cold. Cold means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km). Remove the valve cap from the tire valve stem. Press the tire gage ﬁrmly onto the valve to get a pressure measurement. If the cold tire inﬂation pressure matches the recommended pressure on the Tire and Loading Information label, no further adjustment is necessary. If the inﬂation pressure is low, add air until you reach the recommended amount. If you overﬁll the tire, release air by pushing on the metal stem in the center of the tire valve. Re-check the tire pressure with the tire gage. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture. Tire Inspection and Rotation Tires should be rotated every 5,000 to 8,000 miles (8 000 to 13 000 km). Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 347 and Wheel Replacement on page 352 for more information. 345 The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The ﬁrst rotation is the most important. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 393. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” under Capacities and Speciﬁcations on page 386. {CAUTION: Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if needed, to get all the rust or dirt off. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 355. When rotating your tires, always use the correct rotation pattern shown here. Do not include the compact spare tire in your tire rotation. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inﬂation pressures as shown on the Tire and Loading Information label. 346 When It Is Time for New Tires One way to tell when it is time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining. You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true: (cid:127) You can see the indicators at three or more places around the tire. (cid:127) You can see cord or fabric showing through the tire’s rubber. (cid:127) The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut, or snagged deep enough to show cord or fabric. (cid:127) The tire has a bump, bulge, or split. (cid:127) The tire has a puncture, cut, or other damage that cannot be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage. Buying New Tires GM has developed and matched speciﬁc tires for your vehicle. The original equipment tires installed on your vehicle, when it was new, were designed to meet General Motors Tire Performance Criteria Speciﬁcation (TPC spec) system rating. If you need replacement tires, GM strongly recommends that you get tires with the same TPC Spec rating. This way, your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give the same performance and vehicle safety, during normal use, as the original tires. 347 GM’s exclusive TPC Spec system considers over a dozen critical speciﬁcations that impact the overall performance of your vehicle, including brake system performance, ride and handling, traction control, and tire pressure monitoring performance. GM’s TPC Spec number is molded onto the tire’s sidewall by the tire manufacturer. If the tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC spec number will be followed by an MS for mud and snow. See Tire Sidewall Labeling on page 337 for additional information. {CAUTION: Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes, brands, or types (radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle may not (Continued) CAUTION: 348 CAUTION: (Continued) handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes, brands, or types may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the correct size, brand, and type of tires on all wheels. It is all right to drive with your compact spare temporarily, as it was developed for use on your vehicle. See Compact Spare Tire on page 369. {CAUTION: If you use bias-ply tires on your vehicle, the wheel rim ﬂanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle. If you must replace your vehicle’s tires with those that do not have a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating, and construction type (radial and bias-belted tires) as your vehicle’s original tires. Your vehicle’s original equipment tires are listed on the Tire and Loading Information label. This label is attached to the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 269, for more information about the Tire and Loading Information label and its location on your vehicle. Different Size Tires and Wheels If you add wheels or tires that are a different size than your original equipment wheels and tires, this may affect the way your vehicle performs, including its braking, ride and handling characteristics, stability, and resistance to rollover. Additionally, if your vehicle has electronic systems such as, anti-lock brakes, traction control, and electronic stability control, the performance of these systems can be affected. {CAUTION: If you add different sized wheels, your vehicle may not provide an acceptable level of performance and safety if tires not recommended for those wheels are selected. You may increase the chance that you will crash and suffer serious injury. Only use GM speciﬁc wheel and tire systems developed for your vehicle, and have them properly installed by a GM certiﬁed technician. See Buying New Tires on page 347 and Accessories and Modiﬁcations on page 289 for additional information. 349 Uniform Tire Quality Grading Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum section width. For example: Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA), which grades tires by treadwear, traction, and temperature performance. This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States. The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG) system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver, or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards. Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a speciﬁed government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1.5) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart signiﬁcantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices, and differences in road characteristics and climate. 350 Traction – AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on speciﬁed government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics. Temperature – A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a speciﬁed indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inﬂated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinﬂation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure. Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The tires and wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. Adjustments to wheel alignment and tire balancing will not be necessary on a regular basis. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling to one side or the other, the alignment may need to be checked. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your tires and wheels may need to be rebalanced. See your dealer for proper diagnosis. 351 Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked, or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your dealer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need. Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces. If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts, or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts for your vehicle. {CAUTION: Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts, or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts for replacement. Notice: The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance, and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 355 for more information. 352 Used Replacement Wheels {CAUTION: Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is dangerous. You cannot know how it has been used or how far it has been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause a crash. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new GM original equipment wheel. Tire Chains {CAUTION: Do not use tire chains. There is not enough clearance. Tire chains used on a vehicle without the proper amount of clearance can cause damage to the brakes, suspension or other vehicle parts. (Continued) CAUTION: CAUTION: (Continued) The area damaged by the tire chains could cause you to lose control of your vehicle and you or others may be injured in a crash. Use another type of traction device only if its manufacturer recommends it for use on your vehicle and tire size combination and road conditions. Follow that manufacturer’s instructions. To help avoid damage to your vehicle, drive slowly, readjust or remove the device if it is contacting your vehicle, and do not spin your vehicle’s wheels. If you do ﬁnd traction devices that will ﬁt, install them on the front tires. 353 {CAUTION: Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do maintenance or repairs is dangerous without the appropriate safety equipment and training. The jack provided with your vehicle is designed only for changing a ﬂat tire. If it is used for anything else, you or others could be badly injured or killed if the vehicle slips off the jack. Use the jack provided with your vehicle only for changing a ﬂat tire. If a tire goes ﬂat, the next part shows how to use the jacking equipment to change a ﬂat tire safely. If a Tire Goes Flat It is unusual for a tire to blowout while you are driving, especially if you maintain your vehicle’s tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it is much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a blowout, here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the ﬂat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel ﬁrmly. Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane. A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you would use in a skid. In any rear blowout remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop, well off the road if possible. 354 Changing a Flat Tire If a tire goes ﬂat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard warning ﬂashers. {CAUTION: Changing a tire can be dangerous. The vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over or fall on you or other people. You and they could be badly injured or even killed. Find a level place to change your tire. CAUTION: (Continued) CAUTION: (Continued) To help prevent the vehicle from moving: 1. Set the parking brake ﬁrmly. 2. Put an automatic transaxle shift lever in PARK (P), or shift a manual transaxle to FIRST (1) or REVERSE (R). 3. Turn off the engine and do not restart while the vehicle is raised. 4. Do not allow passengers to remain in the vehicle. To be even more certain the vehicle will not move, you should put blocks at the front and rear of the tire farthest away from the one being changed. That would be the tire on the other side, at the opposite end of the vehicle. 355 When you have a ﬂat tire, use the following example as a guide to assist you in the placement of wheel blocks. Removing the Spare Tire and Tools The jack, wheel wrench, and spare tire are stowed in the rear of the vehicle, underneath the ﬂoor of the cargo area. To remove the spare tire and tools, do the following: 1. Open the liftgate. See Liftgate on page 106 for more information. The following information will tell you how to use the jack and change a tire. 356 2. Remove the cargo cover. 3. Turn the retainer counterclockwise to remove the tire cover. 4. Remove the tire cover. 5. Remove the spare tire by placing your hands at the four and eight o’clock positions. Gently pull it up and out of the trunk. See Compact Spare Tire on page 369. 6. Remove the wing nut that holds the jack. Then remove the jack, wheel wrench, and ﬂat tire strap. 357 The tools you will be using include the jack (A) and wheel wrench (B). You will need to turn the plastic wheel nut counterclockwise to loosen the wheel wrench from the jack. 358 Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire Press the button and then pull on the end of the wheel wrench to extend the handle. 1. Using the wheel wrench, loosen all the wheel nuts. Do not remove them yet. 359 {CAUTION: Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack. 2. Position the jack and raise the jack lift head to ﬁt over the car ﬂange under the down arrow markings on the rocker panel. 360 {CAUTION: Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned can damage the vehicle and even make the vehicle fall. To help avoid personal injury and vehicle damage, be sure to ﬁt the jack lift head into the proper location before raising the vehicle. 3. Raise the vehicle by turning the jack handle clockwise. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so there is enough room for the compact spare tire to ﬁt underneath the wheel well. 361 4. Remove all the wheel nuts and take off the ﬂat tire. {CAUTION: Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts become loose after time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from the places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if needed, to get all the rust or dirt off. 5. Install the spare tire. 362 6. Remove any rust or dirt from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces and spare wheel. 7. Place the compact spare tire on the wheel-mounting surface. {CAUTION: Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If you do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel could fall off, causing a serious accident. 8. Reinstall the wheel nuts with the rounded end of the nuts toward the wheel. Tighten each nut by hand until the wheel is held against the hub. 363 {CAUTION: Incorrect wheel nuts or improperly tightened wheel nuts can cause the wheel to come loose and even come off. This could lead to an accident. Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts. If you have to replace them, be sure to get new GM original equipment wheel nuts. Stop somewhere as soon as you can and have the nuts tightened with a torque wrench to the proper torque speciﬁcation. See Capacities and Speciﬁcations on page 386 for wheel nut torque speciﬁcation. Improperly tightened wheel nuts can Notice: lead to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque speciﬁcation. See Capacities and Speciﬁcations on page 386 for the wheel nut torque speciﬁcation. 9. Lower the vehicle by turning the jack handle counterclockwise. Lower the jack completely. 364 10. Tighten the wheel nuts ﬁrmly in a crisscross sequence as shown. Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools {CAUTION: Storing a jack, a tire, or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place. 365 Storing the Flat Tire and Tools To store the ﬂat tire, do the following: 1. Open the liftgate. See Liftgate on page 106 for more information. 2. Put back all tools as they were stored in the rear storage compartment and put the compartment cover back on. For more information, see “Storing the Compact Spare Tire and Tools” next in this section. 3. Install the cargo cover. For more information, see Rear Compartment Storage Panel/Cover on page 144. Aluminum Wheel 366 5. Attach the strap to the cargo tie-downs in the rear of the vehicle. Steel Wheel 4. Route the tie-down strap through the tire as shown in the graphic 6. Tighten the tie-down strap. 367 Storing the Compact Spare Tire and Tools Use the following diagram as a guide for storing the compact spare tire once you are done using it. A. Retainer B. Cover C. Spare Tire D. Wing Nut E. Jack and Wheel Wrench F. Strap G. Bolt 368 1. Open the liftgate. See Liftgate on page 106 for more information. 2. Install the strap (F) on the ﬂoor of the spare tire compartment. 3. Place the jack and wheel wrench (E) over the bolt (G), making sure the strap is securely stored, under the jack and wheel wrench. 4. Secure the jack and wheel wrench (E) with the wing nut (D). 5. With the valve stem up, place the spare tire (C) on the compartment ﬂoor. 6. Make sure the bolt (G) passes through the wheel center. 7. Install the spare tire cover (B). 8. Secure the spare tire and tools with the retainer (A). The compact spare tire storage area is designed only for the compact spare tire, the standard tire cannot be stored there. Compact Spare Tire Although the compact spare tire was fully inﬂated when the vehicle was new, it can lose air after a time. Check the inﬂation pressure regularly. It should be 60 psi (420 kPa). After installing the compact spare on the vehicle, stop as soon as possible and make sure the spare tire is correctly inﬂated. The compact spare is made to perform well at speeds up to 65 mph (105 km/h) for distances up to 3,000 miles (5 000 km), so you can ﬁnish your trip and have the full-size tire repaired or replaced at your convenience. Of course, it is best to replace the spare with a full-size tire as soon as possible. The spare tire will last longer and be in good shape in case it is needed again. Notice: When the compact spare is installed, do not take your vehicle through an automatic car wash with guide rails. The compact spare can get caught on the rails. That can damage the tire and wheel, and maybe other parts of your vehicle. Do not use the compact spare on other vehicles. And do not mix the compact spare tire or wheel with other wheels or tires. They will not ﬁt. Keep the spare tire and its wheel together. Notice: Tire chains will not ﬁt your compact spare. Using them can damage your vehicle and can damage the chains too. Do not use tire chains on your compact spare. 369 Appearance Care Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle Your vehicle’s interior will continue to look its best if it is cleaned often. Although not always visible, dust and dirt can accumulate on your upholstery. Dirt can damage carpet, fabric, leather, and plastic surfaces. Regular vacuuming is recommended to remove particles from your upholstery. It is important to keep your upholstery from becoming and remaining heavily soiled. Soils should be removed as quickly as possible. Your vehicle’s interior may experience extremes of heat that could cause stains to set rapidly. Lighter colored interiors may require more frequent cleaning. Use care because newspapers and garments that transfer color to your home furnishings may also transfer color to your vehicle’s interior. When cleaning your vehicle’s interior, only use cleaners speciﬁcally designed for the surfaces being cleaned. Permanent damage may result from using cleaners on surfaces for which they were not intended. Use glass cleaner only on glass. 370 If you use abrasive cleaners when Remove any accidental over-spray from other surfaces immediately. To prevent over-spray, apply cleaner directly to the cleaning cloth. Notice: cleaning glass surfaces on your vehicle, you could scratch the glass and/or cause damage to the rear window defogger. When cleaning the glass on your vehicle, use only a soft cloth and glass cleaner. Many cleaners contain solvents that may become concentrated in your vehicle’s breathing space. Before using cleaners, read and adhere to all safety instructions on the label. While cleaning your vehicle’s interior, maintain adequate ventilation by opening your vehicle’s doors and windows. Dust may be removed from small buttons and knobs using a small brush with soft bristles. Your dealer has a product for cleaning your vehicle’s glass. Should it become necessary, you can also obtain a product from your dealer to remove odors from your vehicle’s upholstery. Do not clean your vehicle using the following cleaners or techniques: (cid:127) Never use a knife or any other sharp object to remove a soil from any interior surface. (cid:127) Never use a stiff brush. It can cause damage to your vehicle’s interior surfaces. (cid:127) Never apply heavy pressure or rub aggressively with a cleaning cloth. Use of heavy pressure can damage your interior and does not improve the effectiveness of soil removal. (cid:127) Use only mild, neutral-pH soaps. Avoid laundry detergents or dishwashing soaps with degreasers. Using too much soap will leave a residue that leaves streaks and attracts dirt. For liquid cleaners, about 20 drops per gallon (3.78 L) of water is a good guide. (cid:127) Do not heavily saturate your upholstery while cleaning. (cid:127) Damage to your vehicle’s interior may result from the use of many organic solvents such as naptha, alcohol, etc. Fabric/Carpet Use a vacuum cleaner with a soft brush attachment frequently to remove dust and loose dirt. A canister vacuum with a beater bar in the nozzle may only be used on ﬂoor carpet and carpeted ﬂoor mats. For soils, always try to remove them ﬁrst with plain water or club soda. Before cleaning, gently remove as much of the soil as possible using one of the following techniques: (cid:127) For liquids: gently blot the remaining soil with a paper towel. Allow the soil to absorb into the paper towel until no more can be removed. (cid:127) For solid dry soils: remove as much as possible and then vacuum. To clean, use the following instructions: 1. Saturate a lint-free, clean white cloth with water or club soda. 2. Wring the cloth to remove excess moisture. 3. Start on the outside edge of the soil and gently rub toward the center. Continue cleaning, using a clean area of the cloth each time it becomes soiled. 371 4. Continue to gently rub the soiled area until the cleaning cloth remains clean. 5. If the soil is not completely removed, use a mild soap solution and repeat the cleaning process that was used with plain water. If any of the soil remains, a commercial fabric cleaner or spot lifter may be necessary. When a commercial upholstery cleaner or spot lifter is to be used, test a small hidden area for colorfastness ﬁrst. If the locally cleaned area gives any impression that a ring formation may result, clean the entire surface. After the cleaning process has been completed, a paper towel can be used to blot excess moisture from the fabric or carpet. Instrument Panel, Vinyl, and Other Plastic Surfaces A soft cloth dampened with water may be used to remove dust. If a more thorough cleaning is necessary, a clean soft cloth dampened with a mild soap solution can be used to gently remove dust and dirt. Never use spot lifters or removers on plastic surfaces. Many commercial cleaners and coatings that are sold to preserve and protect soft plastic surfaces may permanently change the appearance and feel of your interior and are not recommended. Do not use silicone or wax-based products, or those containing organic solvents to clean your vehicle’s interior because they can alter the appearance by increasing the gloss in a non-uniform manner. Some commercial products may increase gloss on your instrument panel. The increase in gloss may cause annoying reﬂections in the windshield and even make it difficult to see through the windshield under certain conditions. 372 Care of Safety Belts Keep belts clean and dry. {CAUTION: Do not bleach or dye safety belts. If you do, it may severely weaken them. In a crash, they might not be able to provide adequate protection. Clean safety belts only with mild soap and lukewarm water. Weatherstrips Silicone grease on weatherstrips will make them last longer, seal better, and not stick or squeak. Apply silicone grease with a clean cloth. During very cold, damp weather frequent application may be required. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 403. Washing Your Vehicle The paint ﬁnish on the vehicle provides beauty, depth of color, gloss retention, and durability. The best way to preserve the vehicle’s ﬁnish is to keep it clean by washing it often with lukewarm or cold water. Do not wash the vehicle in the direct rays of the sun. Use a car washing soap. Do not use strong soaps or chemical detergents. Be sure to rinse the vehicle well, removing all soap residue completely. Approved cleaning products can be obtained from your dealer. See Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials on page 378. Do not use cleaning agents that are petroleum based, or that contain acid or abrasives. All cleaning agents should be ﬂushed promptly and not allowed to dry on the surface, or they could stain. Dry the ﬁnish with a soft, clean chamois or an all-cotton towel to avoid surface scratches and water spotting. High pressure car washes may cause water to enter the vehicle. 373 Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses Use only lukewarm or cold water, a soft cloth and a car washing soap to clean exterior lamps and lenses. Follow instructions under Washing Your Vehicle on page 373. Finish Care Occasional waxing or mild polishing of the vehicle by hand may be necessary to remove residue from the paint ﬁnish. Approved cleaning products can be obtained from your dealer. See Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials on page 378. Notice: Machine compounding or aggressive polishing on a basecoat/clearcoat paint ﬁnish may damage it. Use only non-abrasive waxes and polishes that are made for a basecoat/clearcoat paint ﬁnish on your vehicle. The vehicle has a basecoat/clearcoat paint ﬁnish. The clearcoat gives more depth and gloss to the colored basecoat. Always use waxes and polishes that are non-abrasive and made for a basecoat/clearcoat paint ﬁnish. Foreign materials such as calcium chloride and other salts, ice melting agents, road oil and tar, tree sap, bird droppings, chemicals from industrial chimneys, etc., can damage the vehicle’s ﬁnish if they remain on painted surfaces. Wash the vehicle as soon as possible. If necessary, use non-abrasive cleaners that are marked safe for painted surfaces to remove foreign matter. Exterior painted surfaces are subject to aging, weather, and chemical fallout that can take their toll over a period of years. To help keep the paint ﬁnish looking new, keep the vehicle in a garage or covered whenever possible. 374 Windshield and Wiper Blades If the windshield is not clear after using the windshield washer, or if the wiper blade chatters when running, wax, sap, or other material may be on the blade or windshield. Clean the outside of the windshield with a glass cleaning liquid or powder and water solution. The windshield is clean if beads do not form when it is rinsed with water. Grime from the windshield will stick to the wiper blades and affect their performance. Clean the blade by wiping vigorously with a cloth soaked in full-strength windshield washer solvent. Then rinse the blade with water. Check the wiper blades and clean them as necessary; replace blades that look worn. If you use strong soaps, chemicals, Aluminum or Chrome-Plated Wheels Your vehicle may have either aluminum or chrome-plated wheels. Keep the wheels clean using a soft clean cloth with mild soap and water. Rinse with clean water. After rinsing thoroughly, dry with a soft clean towel. A wax may then be applied. Notice: abrasive polishes, cleaners, brushes, or cleaners that contain acid on aluminum or chrome-plated wheels, you could damage the surface of the wheel(s). The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Use only GM-approved cleaners on aluminum or chrome-plated wheels. The surface of these wheels is similar to the painted surface of your vehicle. Do not use strong soaps, chemicals, abrasive polishes, abrasive cleaners, cleaners with acid, or abrasive cleaning brushes on them because you could damage the surface. Do not use chrome polish on aluminum wheels. 375 Notice: Using chrome polish on aluminum wheels could damage the wheels. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Use chrome polish on chrome wheels only. Use chrome polish only on chrome-plated wheels, but avoid any painted surface of the wheel, and buff off immediately after application. Notice: If you drive your vehicle through an automatic car wash that has silicone carbide tire cleaning brushes, you could damage the aluminum or chrome-plated wheels. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Never drive a vehicle equipped with aluminum or chrome-plated wheels through an automatic car wash that uses silicone carbide tire cleaning brushes. Do not take your vehicle through an automatic car wash that has silicone carbide tire cleaning brushes. These brushes can also damage the surface of these wheels. Tires To clean the tires, use a stiff brush with tire cleaner. Notice: Using petroleum-based tire dressing products on your vehicle may damage the paint ﬁnish and/or tires. When applying a tire dressing, always wipe off any overspray from all painted surfaces on your vehicle. Sheet Metal Damage If the vehicle is damaged and requires sheet metal repair or replacement, make sure the body repair shop applies anti-corrosion material to parts repaired or replaced to restore corrosion protection. Original manufacturer replacement parts will provide the corrosion protection while maintaining the warranty. 376 Finish Damage Any stone chips, fractures or deep scratches in the ﬁnish should be repaired right away. Bare metal will corrode quickly and may develop into major repair expense. Minor chips and scratches can be repaired with touch-up materials available from your dealer. Larger areas of ﬁnish damage can be corrected in your dealer’s body and paint shop. Underbody Maintenance Chemicals used for ice and snow removal and dust control can collect on the underbody. If these are not removed, corrosion and rust can develop on the underbody parts such as fuel lines, frame, ﬂoor pan, and exhaust system even though they have corrosion protection. At least every spring, ﬂush these materials from the underbody with plain water. Clean any areas where mud and debris can collect. Dirt packed in close areas of the frame should be loosened before being ﬂushed. Your dealer or an underbody car washing system can do this for you. Chemical Paint Spotting Some weather and atmospheric conditions can create a chemical fallout. Airborne pollutants can fall upon and attack painted surfaces on the vehicle. This damage can take two forms: blotchy, ring-shaped discolorations, and small, irregular dark spots etched into the paint surface. Although no defect in the paint job causes this, GM will repair, at no charge to the owner, the surfaces of new vehicles damaged by this fallout condition within 12 months or 12,000 miles (20 000 km) of purchase, whichever occurs ﬁrst. 377 Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials Description Usage Description Usage Swirl Remover Polish Interior and exterior polishing cloth. Removes tar, road oil and asphalt. Use on chrome or stainless steel. Removes soil and black marks from whitewalls. Cleans vinyl. Removes dirt, grime, smoke and ﬁngerprints. Removes dirt and grime from chrome wheels and wire wheel covers. Removes dust, ﬁngerprints, and surface contaminants. Spray on wipe off. Cleaner Wax Foaming Tire Shine Low Gloss Wash Wax Concentrate Spot Lifter Odor Eliminator Polishing Cloth Wax-Treated Tar and Road Oil Remover Chrome Cleaner and Polish White Sidewall Tire Cleaner Vinyl Cleaner Glass Cleaner Chrome and Wire Wheel Cleaner Finish Enhancer 378 Removes swirl marks, ﬁne scratches and other light surface contamination. Removes light scratches and protects ﬁnish. Cleans, shines and protects in one easy step, no wiping necessary. Medium foaming shampoo. Cleans and lightly waxes. Biodegradable and phosphate free. Quickly and easily removes spots and stains from carpets, vinyl and cloth upholstery. Odorless spray odor eliminator used on fabrics, vinyl, leather and carpet. Vehicle Identiﬁcation Vehicle Identiﬁcation Number (VIN) Engine Identiﬁcation The eighth character in the VIN is the engine code. This code will help you identify your vehicle’s engine, speciﬁcations, and replacement parts. Service Parts Identiﬁcation Label You will ﬁnd this label on the inside of the glove box. It is very helpful if you ever need to order parts. On this label, you will ﬁnd the following: (cid:127) VIN (cid:127) Model designation (cid:127) Paint information (cid:127) Production options and special equipment Do not remove this label from the vehicle. This is the legal identiﬁer for your vehicle. It appears on a plate in the front corner of the instrument panel, on the driver’s side. You can see it if you look through the windshield from outside your vehicle. The VIN also appears on the Vehicle Certiﬁcation and Service Parts labels and the certiﬁcates of title and registration. 379 Electrical System Add-On Electrical Equipment Notice: Do not add anything electrical to your vehicle unless you check with your dealer ﬁrst. Some electrical equipment can damage your vehicle and the damage would not be covered by your warranty. Some add-on electrical equipment can keep other components from working as they should. Add-on equipment can drain your vehicle’s battery, even if your vehicle is not operating. Your vehicle has an airbag system. Before attempting to add anything electrical to your vehicle, see Servicing Your Airbag-Equipped Vehicle on page 88. Headlamp Wiring The headlamp wiring is protected by fuses. Should your headlamps fail to function, have your headlamp system checked right away. Windshield Wiper Fuses The windshield wiper motor is protected by a circuit breaker and a fuse. If the motor overheats due to heavy snow or ice, the wiper will stop until the motor cools. If the overload is caused by some electrical problem, have it ﬁxed. Power Windows and Other Power Options Fuses in the fuse block protect the power windows. When the current load is too heavy, the fuse opens protecting the circuit until the problem is ﬁxed. 380 Fuses and Circuit Breakers The wiring circuits in your vehicle are protected from short circuits by a combination of fuses, circuit breakers and fusible thermal links. This greatly reduces the chance of damage caused by electrical problems. Look at the silver-colored band inside the fuse. If the band is broken or melted, replace the fuse. Be sure you replace a bad fuse with a new one of the identical size and rating. If you ever have a problem on the road and do not have a spare fuse, you can “borrow” one that has the same amperage. Just pick some feature of your vehicle that you can get along without — like the radio or cigarette lighter — and use its fuse if it is the correct amperage. Replace it as soon as you can. There are two fuse blocks in your vehicle: the ﬂoor console fuse block and the engine compartment fuse block. There are also one or two fuses located at the back of the vehicle near the battery. Floor Console Fuse Block The ﬂoor console fuse block is located on the passenger’s side of the ﬂoor console behind the forward panel. The panel has four clips, one in each corner. Pull the panel to disconnect the four clips, and access the fuses. Use the fuse puller to remove fuses. 381 Fuses Usage 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20

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2007 Chevrolet HHR Owners Manual