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Do this as little as possible to save fuel.


If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand, Mud, Ice, or Snow Slowly and cautiously spin the wheels to free the vehicle when stuck in sand, mud, ice, or snow. See Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out on page 4-26. If the vehicle has a traction system, it can often help to free a stuck vehicle. Refer to the vehicle’s traction system in the Index. If stuck too severely for the traction system to free the vehicle, turn the traction system off and use the rocking method.


{ CAUTION:


If you let your vehicle’s tires spin at high speed, they can explode, and you or others could be injured. The vehicle can overheat, causing an engine compartment fire or other damage. Spin the wheels as little as possible and avoid going above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.


For information about using tire chains on the vehicle, see Tire Chains on page 5-78.


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Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out Turn the steering wheel left and right to clear the area around the front wheels. Turn off any traction system. Shift back and forth between R (Reverse) and a forward gear, or with a manual transmission, between 1 (First) or 2 (Second) and R (Reverse), spinning the wheels as little as possible. To prevent transmission wear, wait until the wheels stop spinning before shifting gears. Release the accelerator pedal while shifting, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear. Slowly spinning the wheels in the forward and reverse directions causes a rocking motion that could free the vehicle. If that does not get the vehicle out after a few tries, it might need to be towed out. If the vehicle does need to be towed out, see Towing Your Vehicle on page 4-32.


Loading the Vehicle It is very important to know how much weight your vehicle can carry. This weight is called the vehicle capacity weight and includes the weight of all occupants, cargo and all nonfactory-installed options. Two labels on your vehicle show how much weight it may properly carry, the Tire and Loading Information label and the Certification label.


{ CAUTION:


Do not load the vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on the vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of the vehicle.


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Tire and Loading Information Label


Label Example


A vehicle specific Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar). With the driver’s door open, you will find the label either attached above the door lock post


for a two door vehicle or below the door lock post for a four door vehicle. The Tire and Loading Information label shows the number of occupant seating positions (A), and the maximum vehicle capacity weight (B) in kilograms and pounds. The Tire and Loading Information label also shows the tire size of the original equipment tires (C) and the recommended cold tire inflation pressures (D). For more information on tires and inflation see Tires on page 5-54 and Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-62. There is also important loading information on the Certification label. It tells you the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) and the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for the front and rear axle; see “Certification Label” later in this section.


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5. Determine the combined weight of luggage


and cargo being loaded on the vehicle. That weight may not safely exceed the available cargo and luggage load capacity calculated in Step 4.


6. If your vehicle will be towing a trailer, the load


from your trailer will be transferred to your vehicle. Consult this manual to determine how this reduces the available cargo and luggage load capacity of your vehicle. If your vehicle can tow a trailer, see Towing a Trailer (Automatic Transmission) on page 4-35 or Towing a Trailer (Manual Transmission) on page 4-41 for important information on towing a trailer, towing safety rules, and trailering tips.


Steps for Determining Correct Load Limit 1. Locate the statement “The combined weight


of occupants and cargo should never exceed XXX kg or XXX lbs” on your vehicle placard. 2. Determine the combined weight of the driver


and passengers that will be riding in your vehicle.


3. Subtract the combined weight of the driver and passengers from XXX kg or XXX lbs.


4. The resulting figure equals the available


amount of cargo and luggage load capacity. For example, if the “XXX” amount equals 1400 lbs and there will be five 150 lb passengers in your vehicle, the amount of available cargo and luggage load capacity is 650 lbs (1400 − 750 (5 x 150) = 650 lbs).


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Example 1


Example 2


Item


Total


Description Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 1 = 1,000 lbs (453 kg) Subtract Occupant Weight 150 lbs (68 kg) × 2 = Available Occupant and Cargo Weight =


300 lbs (136 kg)


700 lbs (317 kg)


Item


Total


Description Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 2 = 1,000 lbs (453 kg) Subtract Occupant Weight 150 lbs (68 kg) × 5 = Available Cargo Weight =


250 lbs (113 kg)


750 lbs (340 kg)


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Certification Label


Example 3


Item


Total


Description Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 3 = 1,000 lbs (453 kg) Subtract Occupant Weight 200 lbs (91 kg) × 5 = Available Cargo Weight =


1,000 lbs (453 kg)


0 lbs (0 kg)


Refer to your vehicle’s Tire and Loading Information label for specific information about your vehicle’s capacity weight and seating positions. The combined weight of the driver, passengers, and cargo should never exceed your vehicle’s capacity weight.


4-30


A vehicle specific Certification label, found on the rear edge of the driver’s door, tells you the gross weight capacity of your vehicle, called the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel, and cargo. Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle, or the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for either the front or rear axle.


And, if you do have a heavy load, you should spread it out. See “Steps for Determining Correct Load Limit” earlier in this section.


{ CAUTION:


{ CAUTION:


Do not load the vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on the vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of the vehicle.


If you put things inside your vehicle — like suitcases, tools, packages, or anything else — they will go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they will keep going.


Things you put inside the vehicle can strike and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or in a crash.


(cid:129) Put things in the trunk of your vehicle. In


a trunk, put them as far forward as you can. Try to spread the weight evenly.


(cid:129) Never stack heavier things, like


suitcases, inside the vehicle so that some of them are above the tops of the seats. (cid:129) Do not leave an unsecured child restraint


in the vehicle.


(cid:129) When you carry something inside the vehicle, secure it whenever you can.


(cid:129) Do not leave a seat folded down unless


you need to.


4-31


Here are some important things to consider before recreational vehicle towing: (cid:129) What is the towing capacity of the towing vehicle?


Be sure to read the tow vehicle manufacturer’s recommendations.


(cid:129) What is the distance that will be travelled? Some


vehicles have restrictions on how far and how long they can tow. Is the proper towing equipment going to be used? See your dealer/retailer or trailering professional for additional advice and equipment recommendations. Is the vehicle ready to be towed? Just as preparing the vehicle for a long trip, make sure the vehicle is prepared to be towed. See Before Leaving on a Long Trip on page 4-21.


Towing


Towing Your Vehicle To avoid damage, the disabled vehicle should be towed with all four wheels off the ground. Consult your dealer/retailer or a professional towing service if the disabled vehicle must be towed. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-8. To tow the vehicle behind another vehicle for recreational purposes, such as behind a motorhome, see “Recreational Vehicle Towing” following.


Recreational Vehicle Towing Recreational vehicle towing means towing the vehicle behind another vehicle — such as behind a motorhome. The two most common types of recreational vehicle towing are known as dinghy towing and dolly towing. Dinghy towing is towing the vehicle with all four wheels on the ground. Dolly towing is towing the vehicle with two wheels on the ground and two wheels up on a device known as a dolly.


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(cid:129) (cid:129) Dinghy Towing Dinghy Towing From the Front


3. Shift an automatic transmission to N (Neutral) or a


manual transmission to Neutral.


4. Release the parking brake. To prevent the battery from draining while the vehicle is being towed, remove the following fuse from the floor console fuse block: 8 (Ignition Switch, PASS-Key® III+). See Floor Console Fuse Block on page 5-119 for more information. Remember to reinstall the fuse once the destination has been reached. Notice: If 65 mph (105 km/h) is exceeded while towing the vehicle, it could be damaged. Never exceed 65 mph (105 km/h) while towing the vehicle.


The vehicle may be dinghy towed from the front with all four wheels on the ground following these steps: 1. Set the parking brake. 2. Turn the ignition key to ACC/ACCESSORY to


unlock the steering wheel.


4-33


Dinghy Towing From the Rear


Dolly Towing


Notice: Towing the vehicle from the rear could damage it. Also, repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Never have the vehicle towed from the rear.


The vehicle cannot be dolly towed, but can be dinghy towed. See “Dinghy Towing” earlier in this section. Notice: Dolly towing your vehicle may cause damage because of reduced ground clearance. Always tow your vehicle using the dinghy towing procedure listed in this section or put your vehicle on a flatbed truck.


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Towing a Trailer (Automatic Transmission)


{ CAUTION:


The driver can lose control when pulling a trailer if the correct equipment is not used or the vehicle is not driven properly. For example, if the trailer is too heavy, the brakes may not work well — or even at all. The driver and passengers could be seriously injured. The vehicle may also be damaged; the resulting repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Pull a trailer only if all the steps in this section have been followed. Ask your dealer/retailer for advice and information about towing a trailer with the vehicle.


The vehicle can tow a trailer if it is equipped with the proper trailer towing equipment.


To identify the trailering capacity of the vehicle, read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this section. Trailering is different than just driving the vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, acceleration, braking, durability and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly. The following information has many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before pulling a trailer. Load-pulling components such as the engine, transmission, rear axle, wheel assemblies and tires are forced to work harder against the drag of the added weight. The engine is required to operate at relatively higher speeds and under greater loads, generating extra heat. The trailer also adds considerably to wind resistance, increasing the pulling requirements.


4-35


Pulling A Trailer If you do, here are some important points:


There are many different laws, including speed limit restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure the rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you will be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police.


(cid:129) Do not tow a trailer at all during the first 1,000 miles


(1 600 km) the new vehicle is driven. The engine, transmission or other parts could be damaged. Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that a trailer is towed, do not drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and do not make starts at full throttle. This helps the engine and other parts of the vehicle wear in at the heavier loads.


(cid:129) Obey speed limit restrictions when towing a trailer.


Do not drive faster than the maximum posted speed for trailers, or no more than 55 mph (90 km/h), to save wear on the vehicle’s parts. (cid:129) Do not tow when the outside air temperature is


above 100°F (38°C).


(cid:129) Do not tow more than 1,000 miles (1 600 km)


per year.


4-36


Three important considerations have to do with weight:


The weight of the trailer The weight of the trailer tongue The total weight on the vehicle’s tires


Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It should never weigh more than 1,000 lbs (450 kg). But even that can be too heavy. It depends on how the rig is used. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much the vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. It can depend on any special equipment on the vehicle, and the amount of tongue weight the vehicle can carry. See “Weight of the Trailer Tongue” later in this section for more information. Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming only the driver is in the tow vehicle and it has all the required trailering equipment. The weight of additional optional equipment, passengers and cargo in the tow vehicle must be subtracted from the maximum trailer weight.


(cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) Ask your dealer/retailer for our trailering information or advice, or write us at our Customer Assistance Offices. See Customer Assistance Offices on page 7-6
for more information. Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total gross weight of the vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo carried in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. If there are a lot of options, equipment, passengers or cargo in the vehicle, it will reduce the tongue weight the vehicle can carry, which will also reduce the trailer weight the vehicle can tow. If towing a trailer, the tongue load must be added to the GVW because the vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See Loading the Vehicle on page 4-26 for more information about the vehicle’s maximum load capacity.


If using a weight-carrying hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 10 to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B). Do not exceed the maximum allowable tongue weight for the vehicle. Choose the shortest hitch extension that will position the hitch ball closest to the vehicle. This will help reduce the effect of trailer tongue weight on the rear axle. After loading the trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they are not, adjustments might be made by moving some items around in the trailer.


4-37


Total Weight on the Vehicle’s Tires Be sure the vehicle’s tires are inflated to the upper limit for cold tires. These numbers can be found on the Tire-Loading Information label. See Loading the Vehicle on page 4-26. Make sure not to go over the GVW limit for the vehicle, or the GAWR, including the weight of the trailer tongue. Hitches It is important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a few reasons why the right hitch is needed.


The rear bumper on the vehicle is not intended for hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or other bumper-type hitches to it. Use only a frame-mounted hitch that does not attach to the bumper.


(cid:129) Will there be any holes in the body of the vehicle after installing a trailer hitch? If there are, then be sure to seal the holes later when the hitch is removed. If the holes are not sealed, deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from exhaust can get into the vehicle. See Engine Exhaust on page 2-35. Dirt and water can also enter the vehicle.


Safety Chains Always attach chains between the vehicle and the trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer to help prevent the tongue from contacting the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Always leave just enough slack so the rig can turn. Never allow safety chains to drag on the ground. Trailer Brakes Does the trailer have its own brakes? Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so they are installed, adjusted and maintained properly. Driving with a Trailer Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Get to know the rig before setting out for the open road. Get acquainted with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now longer and not as responsive as the vehicle is by itself. Before starting, check all trailer hitch parts and attachments, safety chains, electrical connectors, lamps, tires and mirror adjustments. If the trailer has electric brakes, start the vehicle and trailer moving and


4-38


(cid:129) then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This checks the electrical connection at the same time. During the trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working. Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving the vehicle without a trailer. This can help to avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns. Passing More passing distance is needed when towing a trailer. Because the rig is longer, it is necessary to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before returning to the lane. Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you.


Making Turns Notice: Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. The vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering. When turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so the trailer will not strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance. Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer The arrows on the instrument panel flash whenever signaling a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps also flash, telling other drivers the vehicle is turning, changing lanes or stopping. When towing a trailer, the arrows on the instrument panel flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. For this reason you may think other drivers are seeing the signal when they are not. It is important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working.


4-39


Driving on Grades Notice: Do not tow on steep continuous grades exceeding 6 miles (9.6 km). Extended, higher than normal engine and transmission temperatures may result and damage the vehicle. Frequent stops are very important to allow the engine and transmission to cool. Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before starting down a long or steep downgrade. If the transmission is not shifted down, the brakes might have to be used so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. Pay attention to the engine coolant gage. If the indicator is in the red area, turn off the air conditioning to reduce engine load. See Engine Overheating on page 5-32. When towing under severe conditions such as hot ambient temperatures or steep grades, the vehicle may experience more transmission shifting. A COOLING MODE ON message may also appear in the DIC. This alerts the driver that the shifting mode is in progress and is aiding engine cooling. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-46 for more information.


Parking on Hills


{ CAUTION:


Parking the vehicle on a hill with the trailer attached can be dangerous. If something goes wrong, the rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both the vehicle and the trailer can be damaged. When possible, always park the rig on a flat surface.


If parking the rig on a hill: 1. Press the brake pedal, but do not shift into P (Park) yet. Turn the wheels into the curb if facing downhill or into traffic if facing uphill.


2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels. 3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the


brake pedal until the chocks absorb the load.


4. Reapply the brake pedal. Then apply the parking


brake and shift into P (Park).


5. Release the brake pedal.


4-40


Engine Cooling When Trailer Towing The cooling system may temporarily overheat during severe operating conditions. See Engine Overheating on page 5-32.


Towing a Trailer (Manual Transmission) Do not tow a trailer if the vehicle is equipped with a manual transmission.


Leaving After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply and hold the brake pedal while you:


(cid:129) Start the engine. (cid:129) Shift into a gear. (cid:129) Release the parking brake.


2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks. 4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the


chocks.


Maintenance When Trailer Towing The vehicle needs service more often when pulling a trailer. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4
for more on this. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transmission fluid, engine oil, axle lubricant, belts, cooling system and brake system. It is a good idea to inspect these before and during the trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight.


4-41


✍ NOTES


4-42


Section 5


Service and Appearance Care


Service ............................................................5-3
Accessories and Modifications ..........................5-3
California Proposition 65 Warning .....................5-4
California Perchlorate Materials Requirements .....5-4
Doing Your Own Service Work .........................5-4
Adding Equipment to the Outside of


the Vehicle .................................................5-5
Fuel ................................................................5-5
Gasoline Octane ............................................5-5
Gasoline Specifications ....................................5-6
California Fuel ...............................................5-6
Additives .......................................................5-6
Fuels in Foreign Countries ...............................5-7
Filling the Tank ..............................................5-8
Filling a Portable Fuel Container .....................5-10
Checking Things Under the Hood ....................5-10
Hood Release ..............................................5-11
Engine Compartment Overview .......................5-12
Engine Oil ...................................................5-15
Engine Oil Life System ..................................5-19
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter (2.0L Turbo Engine) ....5-21
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter (2.2L Engine) ............5-24
Automatic Transmission Fluid .........................5-25
Manual Transmission Fluid .............................5-26
Hydraulic Clutch ...........................................5-26
Cooling System ............................................5-26


Engine Coolant .............................................5-28
Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap ..................5-31
Engine Overheating .......................................5-32
Windshield Washer Fluid ................................5-34
Brakes ........................................................5-35
Battery ........................................................5-38
Jump Starting ...............................................5-39
Headlamp Aiming ...........................................5-44
Bulb Replacement ..........................................5-46
Halogen Bulbs ..............................................5-46
Headlamps, Front Turn Signal, Sidemarker,


and Parking Lamps ....................................5-47
Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) .........5-48
Taillamps and Turn Signal Lamps (Coupe) .......5-49
Taillamps, Turn Signal, Stoplamps and


Back-up Lamps (Sedan) .............................5-50
Back-Up Lamps (Coupe) ................................5-51
License Plate Lamp ......................................5-52
Replacement Bulbs .......................................5-52
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement ..............5-53
Tires ..............................................................5-54
Winter Tires .................................................5-55
Tire Sidewall Labeling ...................................5-56
Tire Terminology and Definitions .....................5-60
Inflation - Tire Pressure .................................5-62
Tire Pressure Monitor System .........................5-64


5-1


Section 5


Service and Appearance Care


Tire Pressure Monitor Operation .....................5-65
Tire Inspection and Rotation ...........................5-70
When It Is Time for New Tires .......................5-71
Buying New Tires .........................................5-72
Different Size Tires and Wheels ......................5-74
Uniform Tire Quality Grading ..........................5-74
Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance ..................5-76
Wheel Replacement ......................................5-76
Tire Chains ..................................................5-78
If a Tire Goes Flat ........................................5-79
Tire Sealant and Compressor Kit ....................5-80
Tire Sealant and Compressor Kit Storage .........5-88
Changing a Flat Tire .....................................5-88
Removing the Spare Tire and Tools ................5-90
Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the


Spare Tire (All Models Except SS) ...............5-94


Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the


Spare Tire (SS Model) ...............................5-98
Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools ..............5-106
Compact Spare Tire ....................................5-109
Appearance Care ..........................................5-110
Interior Cleaning .........................................5-110
Fabric/Carpet ..............................................5-111
Leather ......................................................5-112
Instrument Panel, Vinyl, and Other Plastic


Surfaces .................................................5-112


5-2


Care of Safety Belts ....................................5-112
Weatherstrips .............................................5-113
Washing Your Vehicle ..................................5-113
Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses ....................5-113
Finish Care ................................................5-114
Windshield and Wiper Blades .......................5-114
Aluminum or Chrome-Plated Wheels


and Trim ................................................5-115
Tires .........................................................5-116
Sheet Metal Damage ...................................5-116
Finish Damage ...........................................5-116
Underbody Maintenance ...............................5-116
Chemical Paint Spotting ...............................5-116
Vehicle Identification .....................................5-117
Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) ................5-117
Service Parts Identification Label ...................5-117
Electrical System ..........................................5-117
Add-On Electrical Equipment .........................5-117
Headlamp Wiring ........................................5-118
Windshield Wiper Fuses ...............................5-118
Power Windows and Other Power Options ......5-118
Fuses and Circuit Breakers ..........................5-118
Floor Console Fuse Block ............................5-119
Engine Compartment Fuse Block ...................5-120
Capacities and Specifications ........................5-124


Service For service and parts needs, visit your dealer/retailer. You will receive genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:


Accessories and Modifications When non-dealer/non-retailer accessories are added to the vehicle, they can affect vehicle performance and safety, including such things as airbags, braking, stability, ride and handling, emissions systems, aerodynamics, durability, and electronic systems like antilock brakes, traction control, and stability control. Some of these accessories could even cause malfunction or damage not covered by the vehicle warranty. Damage to vehicle components resulting from the installation or use of non-GM certified parts, including control module modifications, are not covered under the terms of the vehicle warranty and may affect remaining warranty coverage for affected parts. GM Accessories are designed to complement and function with other systems on the vehicle. Your GM dealer/retailer can accessorize the vehicle using genuine GM Accessories. When you go to your GM dealer/retailer and ask for GM Accessories, you will know that GM-trained and supported service technicians will perform the work using genuine GM Accessories. Also, see Adding Equipment to Your Airbag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-73.


5-3


California Proposition 65 Warning Most motor vehicles, including this one, contain and/or emit chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. Engine exhaust, many parts and systems (including some inside the vehicle), many fluids, and some component wear by-products contain and/or emit these chemicals.


California Perchlorate Materials Requirements Certain types of automotive applications, such as airbag initiators, seat belt pretensioners, and lithium batteries contained in remote keyless transmitters, may contain perchlorate materials. Special handling may be necessary. For additional information, see www.dtsc.ca.gov/hazardouswaste/perchlorate.


5-4


Doing Your Own Service Work


{ CAUTION:


You can be injured and the vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it.


(cid:129) Be sure you have sufficient knowledge,


experience, the proper replacement parts, and tools before attempting any vehicle maintenance task.


(cid:129) Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts, and


other fasteners. English and metric fasteners can be easily confused. If the wrong fasteners are used, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.


If doing some of your own service work, use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service the vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 7-17. This vehicle has an airbag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see Servicing Your Airbag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-72.


Keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work performed. See Maintenance Record on page 6-16.


Adding Equipment to the Outside of the Vehicle Things added to the outside of the vehicle can affect the airflow around it. This can cause wind noise and can affect fuel economy and windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer/retailer before adding equipment to the outside of the vehicle. Fuel Use of the recommended fuel is an important part of the proper maintenance of this vehicle. To help keep the engine clean and maintain optimum vehicle performance, we recommend the use of gasoline advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. The 8th digit of the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) shows the code letter or number that identifies the vehicle’s engine. The VIN is at the top left of the instrument panel. See Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) on page 5-117.


Gasoline Octane If the vehicle has the 2.2L L4 engine (VIN Code H), use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 87 or higher. If the octane rating is less than 87, you might notice an audible knocking noise when you drive, commonly referred to as spark knock. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. If you are using gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, the engine needs service. If the vehicle has the 2.0L L4 engine (VIN Code X), use premium unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 91 or higher. You can also use regular unleaded gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher, but the vehicle’s acceleration could be slightly reduced, and you might notice a slight audible knocking noise, commonly referred to as spark knock. If the octane is less than 87, you might notice a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. Otherwise, you could damage the engine. If you are using gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, the engine needs service.


5-5


Gasoline Specifications At a minimum, gasoline should meet ASTM specification D 4814 in the United States or CAN/CGSB-3.5 or 3.511 in Canada. Some gasolines contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT). We recommend against the use of gasolines containing MMT. See Additives on page 5-6 for additional information.


California Fuel If the vehicle is certified to meet California Emissions Standards, it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. See the underhood emission control label. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, the vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance might be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp could turn on and the vehicle might fail a smog-check test. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-33. If this occurs, return to your authorized dealer/retailer for diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs might not be covered by the vehicle warranty.


Additives To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing the emission control system to work properly. In most cases, you should not have to add anything to the fuel. However, some gasolines contain only the minimum amount of additive required to meet U.S. Environmental Protection Agency regulations. To help keep fuel injectors and intake valves clean, or if the vehicle experiences problems due to dirty injectors or valves, look for gasoline that is advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. For customers who do not use TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline regularly, one bottle of GM Fuel System Treatment PLUS, added to the fuel tank at every engine oil change, can help clean deposits from fuel injectors and intake valves. GM Fuel System Treatment PLUS is the only gasoline additive recommended by General Motors. Also, your dealer/retailer has additives that will help correct and prevent most deposit-related problems.


5-6


Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel might be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. To check the fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you will be driving.


Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines might be available in your area. We recommend that you use these gasolines, if they comply with the specifications described earlier. However, E85 (85% ethanol) and other fuels containing more than 10% ethanol must not be used in vehicles that were not designed for those fuels. Notice: This vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in the fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under the vehicle warranty. Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions can contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT. We recommend against the use of such gasolines. Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system could be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp might turn on. If this occurs, return to your dealer/retailer for service.


5-7


Filling the Tank


{ CAUTION:


Fuel vapor burns violently and a fuel fire can cause bad injuries. To help avoid injuries to you and others, read and follow all the instructions on the pump island. Turn off the engine when you are refueling. Do not smoke if you are near fuel or refueling the vehicle. Do not use cellular phones. Keep sparks, flames, and smoking materials away from fuel. Do not leave the fuel pump unattended when refueling the vehicle. This is against the law in some places. Do not re-enter the vehicle while pumping fuel. Keep children away from the fuel pump; never let children pump fuel.


5-8


The tethered fuel cap is located behind a hinged fuel door on the passenger side of the vehicle. To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly counterclockwise. The fuel cap has a spring in it; if the cap is released too soon, it will spring back to the right. While refueling, hang the tethered fuel cap from the hook on the fuel door.


{ CAUTION:


Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. If you spill fuel and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. This spray can happen if the tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any hiss noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.


Be careful not to spill fuel. Do not top off or overfill the tank and wait a few seconds after you have finished pumping before removing the nozzle. Clean fuel from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-113. When replacing the fuel cap, turn it clockwise until it clicks. Make sure the cap is fully installed. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-33.


The CHECK GAS CAP message displays on the Driver Information Center (DIC) if the fuel cap is not properly installed. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-46
for more information.


{ CAUTION:


If a fire starts while you are refueling, do not remove the nozzle. Shut off the flow of fuel by shutting off the pump or by notifying the station attendant. Leave the area immediately.


If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get


Notice: the right type. Your dealer/retailer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit properly. This may cause the malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage the fuel tank and emissions system. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-33.


5-9


Filling a Portable Fuel Container


{ CAUTION:


Never fill a portable fuel container while it is in the vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the fuel vapor. You can be badly burned and the vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others:


(cid:129) Dispense fuel only into approved containers. (cid:129) Do not fill a container while it is inside a


vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed, or on any surface other than the ground.


(cid:129) Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the inside of the fill opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the filling is complete.


(cid:129) Do not smoke while pumping fuel. (cid:129) Do not use a cellular phone while


pumping fuel.


Checking Things Under the Hood


{ CAUTION:


An electric fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan.


{ CAUTION:


Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.


5-10


Hood Release To open the hood, do the following.


1. Pull the interior hood release lever with this symbol on it. It is located under the instrument panel on the driver’s side of the vehicle.


2. Then go to the front of the vehicle and push the


secondary hood release lever to the left. It is located under the front center of the hood toward the driver’s side of the vehicle.


3. After you have partially lifted the hood, a gas strut


will automatically take over to lift and hold the hood in the fully open position. Before closing the hood, be sure all the filler caps are on properly. Lower the hood until the lifting force of the strut is reduced, then release the hood to latch fully. Check to make sure the hood is closed and repeat the process if necessary.


5-11


Engine Compartment Overview When you open the hood on the 2.2L L4 engine, here is what you will see:


5-12


A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter (2.0L Turbo Engine) on


page 5-21 or Engine Air Cleaner/Filter (2.2L Engine) on page 5-24.


B. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”


under Engine Oil on page 5-15.


C. Engine Oil Dipstick (Out of View). See “Checking


Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 5-15.


D. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid”


under Brakes on page 5-35 and Hydraulic Clutch on page 5-26.


E. Engine Compartment Fuse Block on page 5-120.


F. Remote Positive (+) Terminal. See Jump Starting on


G. Remote Negative (−) Terminal. See Jump Starting


page 5-39.


on page 5-39.


H. Engine Coolant Surge Tank. See Cooling System on


page 5-26.


I. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding


Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-34.


5-13


When you open the hood on the 2.0L L4 engine, this is what you will see:


5-14


A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter (2.0L Turbo Engine) on


page 5-21 or Engine Air Cleaner/Filter (2.2L Engine) on page 5-24.


B. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”


under Engine Oil on page 5-15.


C. Engine Cooling Fan. See Cooling System on


page 5-26.


D. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”


under Engine Oil on page 5-15.


E. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid”


under Brakes on page 5-35 and Hydraulic Clutch on page 5-26.


F. Engine Compartment Fuse Block on page 5-120. G. Remote Positive (+) Terminal. See Jump Starting on


H. Remote Negative (−) Terminal. See Jump Starting


page 5-39.


on page 5-39.


I. Engine Coolant Surge Tank. See Cooling System on


page 5-26.


J. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding


Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-34.


Engine Oil Checking Engine Oil It is a good idea to check the engine oil level at each fuel fill. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground. The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine oil dipstick. 1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes


to drain back into the oil pan. If this is not done, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.


2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.


5-15


When to Add Engine Oil


If the oil is below the MIN (minimum) mark, add at least one quart/liter of the recommended oil. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Specifications on page 5-124. Notice: Do not add too much oil. If the engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the upper mark that shows the proper operating range, the engine could be damaged.


2.2L Engine


2.0L L4 Engine


See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine oil fill cap. Add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when through.


5-16


What Kind of Engine Oil to Use For Vehicles With the 2.2L L4 Engine Look for three things:


(cid:129) GM6094M


Use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM6094M.


(cid:129) SAE 5W-30


SAE 5W-30 is best for the vehicle. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50. (cid:129) American Petroleum Institute (API) starburst symbol


Oils meeting these requirements should have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API).


Notice: Use only engine oil identified as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and showing the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by the vehicle warranty.


5-17


For Vehicles with the 2.0L L4 Engine Only Look for three things:


(cid:129) GM4718M


This vehicle’s engine requires a special oil meeting GM Standard GM4718M, such as Mobil 1® or equivalent. Oils meeting this standard may be identified as synthetic. However, not all synthetic oils will meet this GM standard. Use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM4718M.


5-18


Notice: Using oils that do not have the GM4718M Standard designation can cause engine damage not covered by the vehicle warranty. (cid:129) SAE 5W-30


SAE 5W-30 is best for the vehicle. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50.


(cid:129) American Petroleum Institute (API) starburst symbol


Oils meeting these requirements should have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API).


This vehicle’s engine was filled at the factory with a synthetic oil meeting all requirements for this vehicle.


Substitute Engine Oil: When adding oil to maintain engine oil level, oil meeting GM Standard GM4718M might not be available. You can add substitute oil designated SAE 5W-30 with the starburst symbol at all temperatures. Substitute oil not meeting GM Standard GM4718M should not be used for an oil change. Cold Temperature Operation For Vehicles With the 2.2L L4 Engine If in an area of extreme cold, where the temperature falls below −20°F (−29°C), use either an SAE 5W-30
synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 engine oil. Both provide easier cold starting for the engine at extremely low temperatures. Always use an oil that meets the required specification, GM6094M. See “What Kind of Engine Oil to Use” for more information.


Engine Oil Additives/Engine Oil Flushes Do not add anything to the oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol that meet GM standards are all that is needed for good performance and engine protection. Engine oil system flushes are not recommended and could cause engine damage not covered by the vehicle warranty.


Engine Oil Life System When to Change Engine Oil This vehicle has the Engine Oil Life System, a computer system that indicates when to change the engine oil and filter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change is indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, the system must be reset every time the oil is changed.


5-19


When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it indicates that an oil change is necessary. A CHANGE OIL SOON message comes on. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-46. Change the oil as soon as possible within the next 600 miles (1 000 km). It is possible that, if driving under the best conditions, the oil life system might not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, the engine oil and filter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. Your dealer/retailer has trained service people who will perform this work using genuine parts and reset the system. It is also important to check the oil regularly and keep it at the proper level. If the system is ever reset accidentally, the oil must be changed at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since the last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed.


How to Reset the Engine Oil Life System The Engine Oil Life System calculates when to change your engine oil and filter based on vehicle use. Whenever the oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where the oil is changed prior to a CHANGE OIL SOON message being turned on, reset the system. After changing the engine oil, the system must be reset: 1. Turn the ignition to ON/RUN, with the engine off. 2. Press the information and reset buttons on the


Driver Information Center (DIC) at the same time to enter the personalization menu. See DIC Vehicle Personalization on page 3-52.


3. Press the information button to scroll through the


available personalization menu modes until the DIC display shows OIL-LIFE RESET.


5-20


4. Press and hold the reset button until the DIC


display shows ACKNOWLEDGED. This will tell you the system has been reset. 5. Turn the key to LOCK/OFF. If the CHANGE OIL SOON message comes back on when the vehicle is started, the engine oil life system has not reset. Repeat the reset procedure. What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that can be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the filter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil.


Engine Air Cleaner/Filter (2.0L Turbo Engine) See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12
Engine Compartment Overview for the location of the engine air cleaner/filter. When to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Inspect the air cleaner/filter at the Maintenance II intervals and replace it at the first oil change after each 50,000 mile (80 000 km) interval. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 Scheduled Maintenance for more information. If you are driving in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect the filter at each engine oil change.


5-21


To inspect the air cleaner/filter remove the filter from the vehicle and lightly shake the filter to release loose dust and dirt. If the filter remains caked with dirt, a new filter is required. Never use compressed air to clean the filter. To inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/filter, 1. Turn off the engine. 2. Disconnect the air flow sensor electrical connector. 3. Loosen the screws on the clamps holding the air outlet duct in place. Do not remove the clamps.


4. Remove the air outlet duct.


How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter


{ CAUTION:


Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps to stop flames if the engine backfires. If it is not there and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.


If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire can


Notice: cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into the engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you are driving.


5-22


5. To remove the filter cover, unlatch the clamps,


then pull up on the front and pull out.


6. Remove filter and inspect or replace.


Wipe all dust from inside of the housing and inspect the air cleaner and air outlet duct for cracks, cuts, and deterioration. The air outlet duct must be replaced if damaged.


7. Reinstall the filter cover and latch the clamps. 8. Reattach the air outlet duct and tighten the screws


on the clamps that hold the duct in place.


9. Reconnect the air flow sensor electrical connector.


5-23


Engine Air Cleaner/Filter (2.2L Engine) See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine air cleaner/filter. When to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Inspect the air cleaner/filter at the Maintenance II intervals and replace it at the first oil change after each 50,000 mile (80 000 km) interval. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 for more information. If you are driving in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect the filter at each engine oil change.


How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter


{ CAUTION:


Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps to stop flames if the engine backfires. If it is not there and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.


If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire can


Notice: cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into the engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you are driving.


5-24


To inspect the air cleaner/filter remove the filter from the vehicle and lightly shake the filter to release loose dust and dirt. If the filter remains caked with dirt, a new filter is required. Never use compressed air to clean the filter.


Automatic Transmission Fluid It is not necessary to check the transmission fluid level. A transmission fluid leak is the only reason for fluid loss. If a leak occurs, take your vehicle to a dealer/ retailer and have it repaired as soon as possible. Change the fluid and filter at the intervals listed in the Maintenance Schedule. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4. Be sure to use the transmission fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. Notice: Use of the incorrect automatic transmission fluid may damage the vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by the vehicle’s warranty. Always use the automatic transmission fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12.


To inspect or replace the filter, remove the screws that hold the cover on and lift off the cover. Be sure to reinstall the cover tightly.


5-25


Cooling System The Cooling System allows the engine to maintain the correct working temperature.


2.2L L4 Engine shown, 2.0L L4 Engine similar


A. Electric Engine Cooling Fan B. Coolant Surge Tank and Pressure Cap


Manual Transmission Fluid It is not necessary to check the manual transmission fluid level. A transmission fluid leak is the only reason for fluid loss. If a leak occurs, take the vehicle to a dealer/retailer for service. Have it repaired as soon as possible. You may also have the fluid level checked by your dealer/retailer when the oil is changed. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12
for the proper fluid to use.


Hydraulic Clutch The hydraulic clutch linkage in your vehicle is self-adjusting. This system does not have its own reservoir. It receives fluid from the brake master cylinder reservoir. See Brakes on page 5-35 for more information.


5-26


{ CAUTION:


An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can cause injury. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan.


CAUTION:


(Continued)


Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.


{ CAUTION:


Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned.


CAUTION:


(Continued)


Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® can cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant could require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in the vehicle.


5-27


Engine Coolant The cooling system in the vehicle is filled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in the vehicle for five years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first. The following explains the cooling system and how to check and add coolant when it is low. If there is a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating on page 5-32
What to Use


{ CAUTION:


Adding only plain water to the cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. The vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, the engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. The engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.


5-28


Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant. If using this mixture, nothing else needs to be added. This mixture: (cid:129) Gives freezing protection down to −34°F (−37°C),


outside temperature.


(cid:129) Gives boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C),


engine temperature.


If an improper coolant mixture is used,


(cid:129) Protects against rust and corrosion. (cid:129) Will not damage aluminum parts. (cid:129) Helps keep the proper engine temperature. Notice: the engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core, and other parts. Notice: in the vehicle’s cooling system, the vehicle could be damaged. Use only the proper mixture of the engine coolant listed in this manual for the cooling system. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12 for more information.


If extra inhibitors and/or additives are used


Checking Coolant The vehicle must be on a level surface when checking the coolant level.


The coolant surge tank is located in the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. Check to see if coolant is visible in the coolant surge tank. If the coolant inside the coolant surge tank is boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down.


If coolant is visible but the coolant level is not at or above the COLD FILL mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant at the coolant surge tank, but be sure the cooling system is cool before this is done. The coolant level should be at the COLD FILL line. If it is not, you may have a leak in the cooling system. How to Add Coolant to the Surge Tank


{ CAUTION:


You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.


Notice: This vehicle has a specific coolant fill procedure. Failure to follow this procedure could cause the engine to overheat and be severely damaged.


5-29


If coolant is needed, add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture at the coolant surge tank. 1. You can remove the coolant surge tank pressure


cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise about two or two and one-half turns. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. This will allow any pressure still left to be vented out the discharge hose.


2. Then keep turning the


pressure cap slowly, and remove it.


{ CAUTION:


An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can cause injury. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan.


{ CAUTION:


Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the surge tank pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the surge tank pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and surge tank pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.


5-30


3. Fill the coolant surge tank with the proper mixture,


to the COLD FILL line on the tank. Wait about five minutes, then check to see if the level is below the COLD FILL line. If the level is below the line, add additional coolant to bring the level up to the line. Repeat this procedure until the level remains constant at the COLD FILL line for at least five minutes.


4. With the coolant surge tank pressure cap off,


start the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fan. By this time, the coolant level inside the coolant surge tank may be lower. If the level is lower than the COLD FILL line, add more of the proper mixture to the coolant surge tank until the level reaches the COLD FILL line.


5. Then replace the pressure cap. Be sure the pressure cap is hand-tight and fully seated. See your dealer/retailer, if necessary.


Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap Notice: If the pressure cap is not tightly installed, coolant loss and possible engine damage may occur. Be sure the cap is properly and tightly secured. The coolant surge tank pressure cap must be fully installed on the coolant surge tank. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.


5-31


If Steam Is Coming From The Engine Compartment


{ CAUTION:


Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool.


Engine Overheating The vehicle has an indicator to warn of engine overheating. You will find an engine coolant temperature warning light on your vehicle’s instrument panel. See Engine Coolant Temperature Warning Light on page 3-32 for more information. You may decide not to lift the hood when this warning appears, but instead get service help right away. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-8. If you do decide to lift the hood, make sure the vehicle is parked on a level surface. Then check to see if the engine cooling fans are running. If the engine is overheating, both fans should be running. If they are not, do not continue to run the engine and have the vehicle serviced. Notice: Engine damage from running the engine without coolant is not covered by the warranty. Notice: driven with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty.


If the engine catches fire because of being


5-32


If the temperature overheat gage is no longer in the overheat zone or an overheat warning no longer displays, the vehicle can be driven. Continue to drive the vehicle slow for about 10 minutes. Keep a safe vehicle distance from the car in front of you. If the warning does not come back on, continue to drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park the vehicle right away. If there is no sign of steam, idle the engine for three minutes while parked. If the warning is still displayed, turn off the engine until it cools down.


If No Steam Is Coming From The Engine Compartment If an engine overheat warning is displayed but no steam can be seen or heard, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when the vehicle: (cid:129) Climbs a long hill on a hot day. (cid:129) Stops after high-speed driving. Idles for long periods in traffic. Tows a trailer.


If the overheat warning is displayed with no sign of steam: 1. Turn the air off. 2. Turn the heater on to the highest temperature and


to the highest fan speed. Open the windows as necessary.


3. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in N (Neutral) for


automatic transmission or NEUTRAL for manual transmission, while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, shift to P (Park) or N (Neutral) and let the engine idle.


5-33


(cid:129) (cid:129) Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing. Adding Washer Fluid


Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer fluid until the tank is full. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for reservoir location.


Notice: (cid:129) When using concentrated washer fluid, follow


the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.


(cid:129) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid.


Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer fluid. Fill the washer fluid tank only three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for fluid expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.


(cid:129) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage the vehicle’s windshield washer system and paint.


5-34


(cid:129) Brakes Brake Fluid


The brake master cylinder and, on manual transmission vehicles, the clutch hydraulic system use the same reservoir filled with DOT 3 brake fluid.


See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the reservoir. There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down:


The brake fluid level goes down because of normal brake lining wear. When new linings are installed, the fluid level goes back up.


(cid:129) A fluid leak in the brake and/or clutch hydraulic


system can also cause a low fluid level. Have the brake and/or clutch hydraulic system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later the brakes and/or clutch will not work well.


Do not top off the brake/clutch fluid. Adding fluid does not correct a leak. If fluid is added when the brake linings are worn, there will be too much fluid when new brake linings are installed. Add or remove fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake/clutch hydraulic system.


{ CAUTION:


If too much brake fluid is added, it can spill on the engine and burn, if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and the vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake and/or clutch hydraulic system.


When the brake fluid falls to a low level, the brake warning light comes on. See Brake System Warning Light on page 3-29.


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(cid:129) What to Add Use only new DOT 3 brake fluid from a sealed container. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This helps keep dirt from entering the reservoir.


{ CAUTION:


With the wrong kind of fluid in the brake or clutch hydraulic system, the brakes or clutch might not work well. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.


If brake fluid is spilled on the vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on the vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-113.


Brake Wear This vehicle has front disc brakes and could have rear drum brakes or rear disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound can come and go or be heard all the time the vehicle is moving, except when applying the brake pedal firmly.


Notice: (cid:129) Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake or clutch hydraulic system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in the brake or clutch hydraulic system can damage brake or clutch hydraulic system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid.


{ CAUTION:


The brake wear warning sound means that soon the brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When the brake wear warning sound is heard, have the vehicle serviced.


Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair.


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(cid:129) Some driving conditions or climates can cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with the brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to torque specifications in Capacities and Specifications on page 5-124. If the vehicle has rear drum brakes, they do not have wear indicators, but if a rear brake rubbing noise is heard, have the rear brake linings inspected immediately. Rear brake drums should be removed and inspected each time the tires are removed for rotation or changing. When the front brake pads are replaced, have the rear brakes inspected, too. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer/retailer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign that brake service might be required.


Brake Adjustment Every moderate brake stop, the disc brakes adjust for wear. If rarely making moderate or heavier brake stops, the brakes might not adjust correctly. Very carefully making a few moderate brake stops about every 1,000 miles (1 600 km) will adjust the brakes properly. If the vehicle has rear drum brakes and the brake pedal goes down farther than normal, the rear drum brakes might need adjustment. Adjust them by backing up and firmly applying the brakes a few times. Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. The vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality brake parts. When parts of the braking system are replaced — for example, when the brake linings wear down and new ones are installed — be sure to get new approved replacement parts. If this is not done, the brakes might not work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for the vehicle, the balance between the front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance expected can change in many other ways if the wrong replacement brake parts are installed.


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Battery This vehicle has a maintenance free battery. When it is time for a new battery, see your dealer/retailer for one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. The battery is located in the trunk. Access to the battery is not necessary to jump start the vehicle. See Jump Starting on page 5-39. Warning: Battery posts, terminals, and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling.


Vehicle Storage


{ CAUTION:


Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 5-39 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.


Infrequent Usage: If the vehicle is driven infrequently, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery. This helps keep the battery from running down.


Extended Storage: For extended storage of the vehicle, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery or use a battery trickle charger. This helps maintain the charge of the battery over an extended period of time.


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Jump Starting If the vehicle’s battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start the vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely.


{ CAUTION:


Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:


(cid:129) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:129) They contain gas that can explode or ignite. (cid:129) They contain enough electricity to burn you. If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.


Ignoring these steps could result in costly


Notice: damage to the vehicle that would not be covered by the warranty. Trying to start the vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage the vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt


battery with a negative ground system.


If the other vehicle’s system is not a 12-volt


Notice: system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start the vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transmission in P (Park) or a manual transmission in N (Neutral) before setting the parking brake.


If you leave the radio or other accessories


Notice: on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by the warranty. Always turn off the radio and other accessories when jump starting the vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug


unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or the accessory power outlet. Turn off the radio and all lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save the radio!


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4. Open the hood on the other vehicle and locate the positive (+) and negative (−) terminal locations on that vehicle. You will not see the battery of your vehicle under the hood. It is located in the trunk. You will not need to access your battery for jump starting. The vehicle has a remote positive (+) and a remote negative (−) jump starting terminal.


Locate the remote positive (+) terminal which is located under a red tethered cap on the engine compartment fuse block. Lift the cap to access the terminal.


Locate the remote negative (−) ground terminal, marked GND (−), which is located behind the engine coolant surge tank.


See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12
for more information on the location of the positive (+) and negative (−) terminals on the vehicle.


{ CAUTION:


An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.


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{ CAUTION:


{ CAUTION:


Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you don’t, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.


Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.


5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or


missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks.


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6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+)


terminal location on the vehicle with the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.


7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.


8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.


9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable to


the negative (−) terminal location on the vehicle with the dead battery. Your vehicle has a remote negative (−) terminal marked GND (−).


10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run


the engine for a while.


11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery.


If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service.


If the jumper cables are connected or


Notice: removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Always connect and remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal.


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Jumper Cable Removal


A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or Remote


Negative (−) Terminal (GND)


B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and Remote


Negative (−) Terminals


C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal


To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from


the vehicle that had the dead battery.


2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the


vehicle with the good battery.


3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the


vehicle with the good battery.


4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other


vehicle.


5. Return the positive (+) terminal cover to its original


position.


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Headlamp aiming is done with the vehicle’s low-beam headlamps. The high-beam headlamps will be correctly aimed if the low-beam headlamps are aimed properly. To adjust the vertical aim on the headlamps: 1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on page 5-11.


2. Record the distance from the ground to the aim dot


on the low-beam headlamp.


Headlamp Aiming The optical headlamp aiming system has been preset at the factory and should need no further adjustment However, If the vehicle is damaged, the headlamp aim may be affected and adjustment may be necessary. If oncoming vehicles flash their high beams at you, this may also mean the vertical aim needs to be adjusted. It is recommended that the vehicle is taken to your dealer/retailer for service if the headlamps need to be re-aimed. It is possible however, to re-aim the headlamps as described. The vehicle should be: (cid:129) Placed so the headlamps are 25 ft. (7.6 m) from a


light colored wall.


(cid:129) On a perfectly level surface which is level all the


way to the wall.


(cid:129) Placed so it is at a right angle to the wall. (cid:129) Clear of any snow, ice, or mud on it.


Fully assembled, with the tires properly inflated, and all other work stopped while headlamp aiming is being done.


(cid:129) Normally loaded with a full tank of fuel, with the spare tire in the proper location, and one person or 160 lbs (75 kg) on the driver seat.


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(cid:129) 3. At the wall, measure from the ground upward (A) to


the recorded distance from Step 2 and mark it.


4. Draw or tape a horizontal line (B) on the wall the


width of the vehicle at the height of the mark in Step 3.


Notice: Do not cover a headlamp to improve beam cut-off when aiming. Covering a headlamp may cause excessive heat build-up which may cause damage to the headlamp. 5. Turn on the low-beam headlamps and place a piece of cardboard in front of the headlamp not being adjusted. Do not place it directly on the headlamp. This allows only the beam of light from the headlamp being adjusted to be seen on the flat surface.


6. Locate the vertical headlamp aiming screws, which are under the hood near each headlamp assembly. The adjustment screw can be turned with a 6 mm socket wrench.


7. Turn the vertical aiming screw until the headlamp beam is aimed to the horizontal tape line. Turn it clockwise or counterclockwise to raise or lower the angle of the beam.


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Bulb Replacement For the proper type of replacement bulbs, see Replacement Bulbs on page 5-52. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer/retailer.


Halogen Bulbs

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