2002 Chevrolet Cavalier Owners Manual

If your battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to follow the steps below to do it safely.

CAUTION:

Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because: D They contain acid that can burn you. D They contain gas that can explode or ignite. D They contain enough electricity to burn you. If you don’t follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.

NOTICE:

Ignoring these steps could result in costly damage to your vehicle that wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. The ACDelcoR battery in your vehicle has a built-in hydrometer. Do not charge, test or jump start the battery if the hydrometer looks clear or light yellow. Replace the battery when there is a clear or light yellow hydrometer and a cranking complaint. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it won’t work, and it could damage your vehicle.

5-3

1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt

battery with a negative ground system.

NOTICE:

If you leave your radio on, it could be badly damaged. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.

3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug

unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or in the accessory power outlet. Turn off the radio and all lamps that aren’t needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. Add it could save your radio!

NOTICE:

If the other system isn’t a 12-volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged.

2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles aren’t touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you don’t want. You wouldn’t be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transaxle in PARK (P) or a manual transaxle in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake.

5-4

4. Open the hoods and locate the batteries. Find the positive (+) and negative (-) terminal locations on each vehicle. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location.

CAUTION:

An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

CAUTION:

Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You don’t need to add water to the ACDelcoR battery installed in every new GM vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you don’t, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Don’t get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.

5-5

CAUTION:

Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.

5. Check that the jumper cables don’t have loose or

missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged, too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (-) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (-) terminal if the vehicle has one. Don’t connect positive (+) to negative (-) or you’ll get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts, too. And don’t connect the negative (-) cable to the negative (-) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks.

5-6

6. Remove the terminal cover and connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

7. Don’t let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

8. Now connect the black negative (-) cable to the negative (-) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (-) terminal if the vehicle has one.

Don’t let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (-) cable doesn’t go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal part or to a remote negative (-) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.

5-7

10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and

run the engine for a while.

11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery.

If it won’t start after a few tries, it probably needs service.

NOTICE:

Damage to your vehicle may result from electrical shorting if jumper cables are removed incorrectly. To prevent electrical shorting, take care that the cables don’t touch each other or any other metal. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.

9. Connect the other end of the negative (-) cable at

least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less.

5-8

 Jumper Cable Removal

A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part B. Good Battery C. Dead Battery

To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (-) cable from the

vehicle that had the dead battery.

2. Disconnect the black negative (-) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the

other vehicle.

5. Return the terminal cover to its original position.

Towing Your Vehicle Consult your dealer or a professional towing service if you need to have your disabled vehicle towed. See “Roadside Assistance” in the Index. If you want to tow your vehicle behind another vehicle for recreational purposes (such as behind a motorhome), see “Recreational Vehicle Towing” in the Index.

5-9

Engine Overheating You will find a coolant temperature gage and a low coolant warning light on your vehicle’s instrument panel. See “Engine Coolant Temperature Gage” and “Low Coolant Warning Light” in the Index. If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine

5-10

CAUTION:

Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool.

NOTICE:

If your engine catches fire because you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty.

If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine An overheat warning, along with a low coolant light, can indicate a serious problem. See “Low Coolant Light” in the Index. If you get an engine overheat warning with no low coolant light, but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: D Climb a long hill on a hot day. D Stop after high-speed driving. D Idle for long periods in traffic. D Tow a trailer. If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. If your air conditioner is on, turn it off. 2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan

speed and open the window as necessary.

3. If you’re in a traffic jam, shift to NEUTRAL (N);

otherwise, shift to the highest gear while driving -- AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE (D) for automatic transaxles.

If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning doesn’t come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there’s still no sign of steam, idle the engine for three minutes while you’re parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.

5-11

Cooling System When you decide it’s safe to lift the hood, here’s what you’ll see:

2.2L L4 (LN2) Engine

A. Coolant Surge Tank with Pressure Cap B. Electric Engine Cooling Fan

5-12

2.2L L4 ECOTECt (L61) Engine

A. Coolant Surge Tank with Pressure Cap B. Electric Engine Cooling Fan

2.4L L4 (LD9) Engine

A. Coolant Surge Tank with Pressure Cap B. Electric Engine Cooling Fan

CAUTION:

An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

5-13

If the coolant inside the coolant surge tank is boiling, don’t do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface.

CAUTION:

The coolant level should be at the FULL COLD mark. If it isn’t, you may have a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere in the cooling system.

Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Don’t touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Don’t run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.

If there seems to be no leak, with the engine on, check to see if the electric engine cooling fan is running. If the engine is overheating, the fan should be running. If it isn’t, your vehicle needs service.

5-14

NOTICE:

How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Surge Tank

Engine damage from running your engine without coolant isn’t covered by your warranty.

NOTICE:

NOTICE:

When adding coolant, it is important that you use only DEX-COOLR (silicate-free) coolant. If coolant other than DEX-COOL is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine coolant will require change sooner -- at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Damage caused by the use of coolant other than DEX-COOLR is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

This vehicle has a specific coolant fill procedure. Failure to follow this procedure could cause your engine to overheat and be severely damaged.

If you haven’t found a problem yet, check to see if coolant is visible in the surge tank. If coolant is visible but the coolant level isn’t at the FULL COLD mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOLR coolant at the coolant surge tank, but be sure the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is cool before you do it. See “Engine Coolant” in the Index for more information.

5-15

If no coolant is visible in the surge tank, add coolant as follows:

CAUTION:

Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the coolant surge tank pressure cap -- even a little -- they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and coolant surge tank pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.

5-16

CAUTION:

NOTICE:

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOLR coolant.

In cold weather, water can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. So use the recommended coolant.

CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.

5-17

1. Park the vehicle on a level surface. You can remove the coolant surge tank pressure cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise (left) about two or two and one-half turns. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. This will allow any pressure still left to be vented out the discharge hose.

2. Then keep turning the

pressure cap slowly, and remove it.

5-18

4. With the coolant surge tank pressure cap off, start the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fan.

3. Then fill the coolant surge tank with the proper

mixture, to the hash mark on the label. Wait about five minutes, then check to see if the level is below the hash mark. If the level is below the hash mark, add additional coolant to bring the level up to the hash mark. Repeat this procedure until the level remains constant at the hash mark for at least five minutes.

By this time, the coolant level inside the coolant surge tank may be lower. If the level is lower than the FULL COLD mark, add more of the proper mixture to the coolant surge tank until the level reaches the FULL COLD mark.

5-19

5. Then replace the

pressure cap. Be sure the pressure cap is hand-tight and fully seated. See your dealer, if necessary.

If a Tire Goes Flat It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving, especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane. A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you’d use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop -- well off the road if possible. If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.

5-20

Changing a Flat Tire If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard warning flashers.

CAUTION:

Changing a tire can cause an injury. The vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over you or other people. You and they could be badly injured. Find a level place to change your tire. To help prevent the vehicle from moving: 1. Set the parking brake firmly. 2. Put an automatic transaxle shift lever in PARK (P), or shift a manual transaxle to FIRST (1) or REVERSE (R).

3. Turn off the engine.

To be even more certain the vehicle won’t move, you can put blocks at the front and rear of the tire farthest away from the one being changed. That would be the tire on the other side of the vehicle, at the opposite end.

The following steps will tell you how to use the jack and change a tire.

5-21

Removing the Spare Tire and Tools

The equipment you’ll need is located in the trunk.

1. Turn the center retainer nut on the compact spare

cover counterclockwise to remove it.

2. Lift and remove the cover. See “Compact Spare

Tire” later in this section for more information about the compact spare tire.

5-22

3. Turn the wing bolt

counterclockwise and remove it. Then lift off the adapter and remove the compact spare tire.

4. Your vehicle’s jack and wheel wrench are stored in a foam tray. Remove the jack and wheel wrench from the trunk. Remove the band around the jack.

The tools you’ll be using include the jack (A) and wheel wrench (B).

5-23

Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire

2. Then use the wheel wrench to loosen all the wheel

nuts. Don’t remove them yet.

1. If your vehicle is equipped with wheel covers,

use the wheel wrench to begin loosening the plastic wheel nut caps. Once you have loosened the plastic wheel nut caps with the wheel wrench you can finish loosening them with your fingers. Using the flat end of the wheel wrench, pry along the edge of the wheel cover until it comes off. If your vehicle has alloy wheels, first remove the decorative nut caps (if equipped) using the wheel wrench.

5-24

3. Near each wheel well is a notch in the frame which the

jack head fits in. The front notch is 9 inches (23 cm) back from the front wheel well. The rear notch is 8 inches (20 cm) forward from the rear wheel well. As is shown in the diagram above, if your vehicle has flared side moldings, both front and rear notches are 18 inches (46 cm) from the wheel wells. Position the jack and raise the jack head until it fits firmly into the notch in the vehicle’s frame nearest the flat tire. Put the compact spare tire near you.

CAUTION:

Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack, you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack.

CAUTION:

Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned can damage the vehicle and even make the vehicle fall. To help avoid personal injury and vehicle damage, be sure to fit the jack lift head into the proper location before raising the vehicle.

4. Raise the vehicle by turning the jack handle

clockwise. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so there is enough room for the compact spare tire to fit underneath the wheel well.

5-25

5. Remove all of the wheel nuts.

6. Remove any rust or dirt

from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces and spare wheel.

CAUTION:

Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from the places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off.

5-26

CAUTION:

Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If you do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel could fall off, causing a serious accident.

7. Place the compact spare tire on the

wheel-mounting surface.

8. Reinstall the wheel nuts

with the rounded end of the nuts toward the wheel. Tighten each nut by hand until the wheel is held against the hub.

9. Lower the vehicle by turning the jack handle counterclockwise. Lower the jack completely.

5-27

10. Tighten the wheel nuts

firmly in a crisscross sequence, as shown.

NOTICE:

Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque specification.

Don’t try to put a wheel cover on your compact spare tire. It won’t fit. Store the wheel cover in the trunk until you have the flat tire repaired or replaced.

NOTICE:

Wheel covers won’t fit on your compact spare. If you try to put a wheel cover on your compact spare, you could damage the cover or the spare.

CAUTION:

Incorrect wheel nuts or improperly tightened wheel nuts can cause the wheel to become loose and even come off. This could lead to an accident. Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts. If you have to replace them, be sure to get new GM original equipment wheel nuts. Stop somewhere as soon as you can and have the nuts tightened with a torque wrench to 100 lb-ft (140 N·m).

5-28

Storing the Flat Tire and Tools

CAUTION:

Storing a jack, a tire or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place.

A. Wrench B. Jack C. Flat Road Tire D. Adapter E. Extension

F. Wing Bolt

(Extension Installed)

G. Cover H. Nut

Store the flat tire in the compact spare tire compartment and secure the adapter, extension (aluminum wheel only) and wing bolt. Store the jack and wheel wrench in the foam tray.

5-29

Storing the Spare Tire and Tools

CAUTION:

Storing a jack, a tire or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place.

The compact spare tire is for temporary use only. Replace the compact spare tire with a full-size tire as soon as you can. See “Compact Spare Tire” in the Index. See the storage instructions label to replace your compact spare tire into your trunk properly.

5-30

A. Wrench B. Jack C. Compact Spare Tire D. Adapter

E. Wing Bolt F. Cover G. Nut

Compact Spare Tire Although the compact spare tire was fully inflated when your vehicle was new, it can lose air after a time. Check the inflation pressure regularly. It should be 60 psi (420 kPa). After installing the compact spare on your vehicle, you should stop as soon as possible and make sure your spare tire is correctly inflated. The compact spare is made to perform well at speeds up to 65 mph (105 km/h) for distances up to 3,000 miles (5 000 km), so you can finish your trip and have your full-size tire repaired or replaced where you want. Of course, it’s best to replace your spare with a full-size tire as soon as you can. Your spare will last longer and be in good shape in case you need it again.

NOTICE:

When the compact spare is installed, don’t take your vehicle through an automatic car wash with guide rails. The compact spare can get caught on the rails. That can damage the tire and wheel, and maybe other parts of your vehicle.

Don’t use your compact spare on other vehicles. And don’t mix your compact spare tire or wheel with other wheels or tires. They won’t fit. Keep your spare tire and its wheel together.

NOTICE:

Tire chains won’t fit your compact spare. Using them can damage your vehicle and can damage the chains too. Don’t use tire chains on your compact spare.

5-31

If You’re Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you will need to spin the wheels, but you don’t want to spin your wheels too fast. The method known as “rocking” can help you get out when you’re stuck, but you must use caution.

CAUTION:

If you let your tires spin at high speed, they can explode, and you or others could be injured. And, the transaxle or other parts of the vehicle can overheat. That could cause an engine compartment fire or other damage. When you’re stuck, spin the wheels as little as possible. Don’t spin the wheels above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.

5-32

NOTICE:

Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting your transaxle back and forth, you can destroy your transaxle.

For information about using tire chains on your vehicle, see “Tire Chains” in the Index. Rocking Your Vehicle To Get It Out First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will clear the area around your front wheels. Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear (or with a manual transaxle, between FIRST (1) or SECOND (2) and REVERSE (R)), spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transaxle is in gear. By slowly spinning your wheels in the forward and reverse directions, you will cause a rocking motion that may free your vehicle. If that doesn’t get you out after a few tries, you may need to be towed out. If you do need to be towed out, see “Towing Your Vehicle” in the Index.

Section 6 Service and Appearance Care

Here you will find information about the care of your vehicle. This section begins with service and fuel information, and then it shows how to check important fluid and lubricant levels. There is also technical information about your vehicle, and a part devoted to its appearance care.

6-2
6-3
6-5
6-6
6-8
6-9
6-14
6-21
6-23
6-24
6-24
6-25
6-28
6-29

Service Fuel Fuels in Foreign Countries Filling Your Tank Filling a Portable Fuel Container Checking Things Under the Hood Engine Oil Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Automatic Transaxle Fluid Manual Transaxle Fluid Hydraulic Clutch Engine Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap Power Steering Fluid

6-

6-29
6-31
6-35
6-36
6-43
6-51
6-52
6-54
6-55
6-60
6-61
6-66
6-66
6-67

Windshield Washer Fluid Brakes Battery Bulb Replacement Tires Appearance Care Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle Care of Safety Belts Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) Electrical System Replacement Bulbs Capacities and Specifications Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts

6-1

Service Your dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you’ll go to your dealer for all your service needs. You’ll get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. We hope you’ll want to keep your GM vehicle all GM. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:

Doing Your Own Service Work If you want to do some of your own service work, you’ll want to use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see “Service and Owner Publications” in the Index. Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see “Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped Vehicle” in the Index. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See “Maintenance Record” in the Index.

6-2

CAUTION:

You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it. D Be sure you have sufficient knowledge,

experience, the proper replacement parts and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task.

D Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts and other fasteners. “English” and “metric” fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.

Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airflow around it. This may cause wind noise and affect windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle.

Fuel Gasoline Octane Use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane of 87 or higher. If the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If it is bad enough, it can damage your engine. A little pinging noise when you accelerate or drive uphill is considered normal. This does not indicate a problem exists or that a higher-octane fuel is necessary. Gasoline Specifications It is recommended that gasoline meet specifications which were developed by the American Automobile Manufacturers Association and endorsed by the Canadian Vehicle Manufacturers’ Association for better vehicle performance and engine protection. Gasolines meeting these specifications could provide improved driveability and emission control system performance compared to other gasolines.

6-3

In Canada, look for the “Auto Makers’ Choice” label on the pump.

California Fuel If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emission Standards (see the underhood emission control label), it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on (see “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index) and your vehicle may fail a smog-check test. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs may not be covered by your warranty.

Canada Only

6-4

Additives Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT. General Motors does not recommend the use of such gasolines. Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for service. To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that will help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing your emission control system to work properly. You should not have to add anything to your fuel. Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in your area to contribute to clean air. General Motors recommends that you use these gasolines, particularly if they comply with the specifications described earlier.

NOTICE:

Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Don’t use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage wouldn’t be covered under your warranty.

Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. To check on fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you’ll be driving.

6-5

Filling Your Tank

CAUTION:

Gasoline vapor is highly flammable. It burns violently, and that can cause very bad injuries. Don’t smoke if you’re near gasoline or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, flames and smoking materials away from gasoline.

6-6

The fuel cap is located behind a hinged door on the passenger’s side of your vehicle.

While refueling, hang the fuel cap inside the fuel door by placing the fuel cap tether in the hanger. To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly to the left (counterclockwise). The fuel cap has a spring in it; if you let go of the cap too soon, it will spring back to the right.

CAUTION:

If you get gasoline on yourself and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. Gasoline can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any “hiss” noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.

Be careful not to spill gasoline. Clean gasoline from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See “Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle” in the Index.

6-7

When you put the fuel cap back on, turn it to the right (clockwise) until you hear a clicking sound. Make sure you fully install the cap. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index.

NOTICE:

If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage your fuel tank and emissions system. See “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index.

Filling a Portable Fuel Container

CAUTION:

Never fill a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others: D Dispense gasoline only into

approved containers.

D Do not fill a container while it is inside a

vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed or on any surface other than the ground. D Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the

inside of the fill opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the filling is complete.

D Don’t smoke while pumping gasoline.

6-8

Checking Things Under the Hood

Hood Release To open the hood, do the following.

CAUTION:

An electric fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

CAUTION:

Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like gasoline, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.

1. Pull the handle located

inside the vehicle on the driver’s side under the instrument panel.

6-9

3. Lift the hood,

release the hood prop from its retainer and put the hood prop into the slot in the hood marked “PROP ROD.” Use the prop rod sleeve when handling the hood prop.

2. Then go to the front of the vehicle and lift up on the secondary hood release handle. The secondary hood release lever is located near the front center of the hood toward the driver’s side.

Before closing the hood, be sure all the filler caps are on properly. Then lift the hood to relieve pressure on the hood prop. Remove the hood prop from the slot in the hood and return the prop to its retainer. Lower the hood 8 to 10 inches (20 to 25 cm) above the vehicle and release it to latch fully. Check to make sure the hood is closed and repeat the process if necessary.

6-10

Engine Compartment Overview When you open the hood on the 2.2L L4 (LN2) engine, you’ll see:

A. Coolant Surge Tank B. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir C. Engine Oil Fill Cap/Dipstick

D. Brake Fluid Reservoir E. Clutch Master Cylinder Reservoir (If Equipped)

F. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter G. Battery H. Windshield Washer

Fluid Reservoir

6-11

When you open the hood on the 2.2L L4 ECOTECt (L61) engine, you’ll see:

A. Coolant Surge Tank B. Engine Oil Dipstick C. Engine Oil Fill Cap D. Brake Fluid Reservoir

6-12

E. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir F. Clutch Master Cylinder Reservoir (If Equipped) (Not Shown)

G. Battery H. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter I. Windshield Washer

Fluid Reservoir

When you open the hood on the 2.4L L4 (LD9) engine, you’ll see:

A. Coolant Surge Tank B. Engine Oil Fill Cap C. Engine Oil Dipstick

D. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir E. Brake Fluid Reservoir F. Clutch Master Cylinder Reservoir (If Equipped)

G. Battery H. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter I. Windshield Washer

Fluid Reservoir

6-13

Engine Oil

If the oil pressure light appears on the instrument cluster, it means you need to check your engine oil level right away.

For more information, see “Oil Pressure Light” in the Index. You should check your engine oil level regularly; this is an added reminder.

Checking Engine Oil It’s a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.

Check the oil here if you have a 2.2L L4 (LN2) engine. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location.

2.2L L4 (LN2) Engine

6-14

Check the oil here if you have a 2.2L L4
ECOTEC (L61) engine. The dipstick’s handle will be a yellow ring. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location.

2.2L L4 ECOTEC

(L61) Engine

2.4L L4 (LD9) Engine

Check the oil here if you have a 2.4L L4 (LD9) engine. The dipstick’s handle will be a yellow ring. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you don’t, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.

6-15

2.2L L4 ECOTEC (L61) Engine

2.2L L4 (LN2) and 2.4L L4 (LD9) Engine

6-16

When to Add Engine Oil If the oil is at or below the ADD mark for a 2.2L L4 (LN2) or 2.4L L4 (LD9) engine, or at or below the MIN mark for a 2.2L L4 ECOTEC (L61) engine, then you’ll need to add at least one quart of oil. But you must use the right kind. This part explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see “Capacities and Specifications” in the Index.

NOTICE:

Don’t add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the upper mark that shows the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged.

2.2L L4 (LN2) Engine

This is where you add oil if you have a 2.2L L4 (LN2) engine. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location.

6-17

2.2L L4 ECOTEC (L61) Engine

2.4L L4 (LD9) Engine

This is where you add oil if you have a 2.2L L4
ECOTEC (L61) engine. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location.

This is where you add oil if you have a 2.4L L4 (LD9) engine. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location. Be sure to fill it enough to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you’re through.

6-18

What Kind of Engine Oil to Use Oils recommended for your vehicle can be identified by looking for the starburst symbol. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API). Do not use any oil which does not carry this starburst symbol.

If you change your own oil, be sure you use oil that has the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. If you have your oil changed for you, be sure the oil put into your engine is American Petroleum Institute certified for gasoline engines.

You should also use the proper viscosity oil for your vehicle, as shown in the following chart:

6-19

As in the chart shown previously, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. However, you can use SAE 10W-30 if it’s going to be 0_F (-18_C) or above. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils, such as SAE 20W-50.

NOTICE:

Use only engine oil with the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty.

GM GoodwrenchR oil meets all the requirements for your vehicle. If you are in an area where the temperature falls below -20_F (-29_C), consider using either an SAE 5W-30 synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both will provide easier cold starting and better protection for your engine at extremely low temperatures.

6-20

Engine Oil Additives Don’t add anything to your oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol are all you will need for good performance and engine protection. When to Change Engine Oil If any one of these is true for you, use the short trip/city maintenance schedule: D Most trips are less than 5 miles (8 km). This is

particularly important when outside temperatures are below freezing.

D Most trips include extensive idling (such as frequent

driving in stop-and-go traffic).

D The vehicle is used for delivery service, police, taxi

or other commercial application.

Driving under these conditions causes engine oil to break down sooner. If any one of these is true for your vehicle, then you need to change your oil and filter every 3,000 miles (5 000 km) or 3 months -- whichever occurs first. If none of them is true, use the long trip/highway maintenance schedule. Change the oil and filter every 7,500 miles (12 500 km) or 12 months -- whichever occurs first. Driving a vehicle with a fully warmed engine under highway conditions will cause engine oil to break down slower.

If your vehicle is equipped with a 2.2L L4 ECOTEC (L61) engine, it has a unique oil filter element. When reinstalling the filter cap, do not exceed 18 lb-ft (25 NSm). Inspect the condition of the O-ring and replace if damaged. What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Don’t let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly throw away clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the filter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help.

Engine Air Cleaner/Filter

The engine air cleaner/filter is located on the driver’s side of the engine compartment near the battery. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location.

6-21

CAUTION:

Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air, it stops flame if the engine backfires. If it isn’t there, and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Don’t drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.

To check or replace the filter, remove the screws that hold the cover on and lift off the cover. Be sure to reinstall the cover tightly. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to replace the air filter. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.

NOTICE:

If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you’re driving.

6-22

Automatic Transaxle Fluid It is not necessary to check the transaxle fluid level. A transaxle fluid leak is the only reason for fluid loss. If a leak occurs, take the vehicle to the dealership service department and have it repaired as soon as possible. You may also have your fluid level checked by your dealer or service center when you have your oil changed. Change both the fluid and filter every 50,000 miles (83 000 km) if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions: D In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature

regularly reaches 90_F (32_C) or higher.

D In hilly or mountainous terrain.

D When doing frequent trailer towing. D Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service. If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, the fluid and filter do not require changing.

NOTICE:

We recommend you use only fluid labeled DEXRONR-III, because fluid with that label is made especially for your automatic transaxle. Damage caused by fluid other than DEXRONR-III is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

6-23

Manual Transaxle Fluid It is not necessary to check the transaxle fluid level. A transaxle fluid leak is the only reason for fluid loss. If a leak occurs, take the vehicle to the dealership service department and have it repaired as soon as possible. You may also have your fluid level checked by your dealer or service center when you have your oil changed. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index for the proper fluid to use. Hydraulic Clutch The hydraulic clutch linkage in your vehicle is self-adjusting. The clutch master cylinder reservoir is filled with hydraulic clutch fluid. It is not necessary to regularly check clutch fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system. Adding fluid won’t correct a leak. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.

When to Check and What to Use

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often you should check the fluid level in your clutch master cylinder reservoir and for the proper fluid. See “Owner Checks and Services” and “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.

How to Check and Add Fluid You do not need to check the fluid level unless you suspect a clutch problem. To check the fluid level, take the cap off. If the fluid reaches the step inside the reservoir, the fluid level is correct. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location.

6-24

Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with DEX-COOLR engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for 5 years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if you add only DEX-COOLR extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see “Engine Overheating” in the Index. A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOLR coolant will: D Give freezing protection down to -34_F (-37_C). D Give boiling protection up to 265_F (129_C). D Protect against rust and corrosion. D Help keep the proper engine temperature. D Let the warning lights and gages work as

they should.

NOTICE:

When adding coolant, it is important that you use only DEX-COOLR (silicate-free) coolant. If coolant other than DEX-COOL is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine coolant will require change sooner -- at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Damage caused by the use of coolant other than DEX-COOLR is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

6-25

What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOLR coolant which won’t damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you don’t need to add anything else.

CAUTION:

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOLR coolant.

NOTICE:

If you use an improper coolant mixture, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts.

If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system.

NOTICE:

If you use the proper coolant, you don’t have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful.

6-26

Checking Coolant

The surge tank is located on the passenger’s side of the engine compartment. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location.

The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the FULL COLD mark.

If the low coolant light comes on and stays on, it means you’re low on engine coolant. See “Low Coolant Light” in the Index.

CAUTION:

Turning the surge tank pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. Never turn the surge tank pressure cap -- even a little -- when the engine and radiator are hot.

6-27

Surge Tank Pressure Cap

NOTICE:

Your surge tank cap is a 15 psi (105 kPa) pressure-type cap and must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss and possible engine damage from overheating.

Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOLR coolant mixture at the surge tank, but only when the engine is cool. If the surge tank is empty, a special fill procedure is necessary. See “Engine Overheating” in the Index for instructions on “How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Surge Tank.”

CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.

When replacing the pressure cap, make sure it is hand-tight.

6-28

Power Steering Fluid

For the 2.2L L4 (LN2) engine, the power steering fluid reservoir is located toward the rear of the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle.

For the 2.2L L4 ECOTEC (L61) and 2.4L L4 (LD9) engines, it is located toward the front of the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location. When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for reservoir location.

How to Check Power Steering Fluid Turn the key off, let the engine compartment cool down, wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean, then unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. Then remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on the dipstick. The level should be at the “C” mark. If necessary, add only enough fluid to bring the level up to the mark. What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals. Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for reservoir location.

6-29

Adding Washer Fluid

Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer fluid until the tank is full.

NOTICE:

D When using concentrated washer fluid,

follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.

D Don’t mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water doesn’t clean as well as washer fluid.

D Fill your washer fluid tank only

three-quarters full when it’s very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.

D Don’t use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.

6-30

Brakes Brake Fluid

Your brake master cylinder reservoir is on the driver’s side of the engine compartment. It is filled with DOT-3
brake fluid. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index. There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid

level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes won’t work well, or won’t work at all. So, it isn’t a good idea to “top off” your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid won’t correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you’ll have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add (or remove) brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

CAUTION:

If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

When your brake fluid falls to a low level, your brake warning light will come on. See “Brake System Warning Light” in the Index.

6-31

What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.

CAUTION:

With the wrong kind of fluid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.

NOTICE:

D Using the wrong fluid can badly damage

brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they’ll have to be replaced. Don’t let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid.

D If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See “Appearance Care” in the Index.

6-32

Brake Wear Your vehicle has front disc brakes and rear drum brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving (except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly).

CAUTION:

The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes won’t work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.

NOTICE:

Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair.

Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. See “Caliper/Knuckle Maintenance Inspection” in Section 7 of this manual under Part C “Periodic Maintenance Inspections.” Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM torque specifications. Your rear drum brakes don’t have wear indicators, but if you ever hear brake rubbing noise, have the rear brake linings inspected immediately. Also, the rear brake drums should be removed and inspected each time the tires are removed for rotation or changing. When you have the front brake pads replaced, have the rear brakes inspected, too. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. See “Brake System Inspection” in Section 7 of this manual under Part C “Periodic Maintenance Inspections.”

6-33

Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you make a moderate brake stop, your disc brakes adjust for wear. If you rarely make a moderate or heavier stop, then your brakes might not adjust correctly. If you drive in that way, then -- very carefully -- make a few moderate brake stops about every 1,000 miles (1 600 km), so your brakes will adjust properly. If your brake pedal goes down farther than normal, your rear drum brakes may need adjustment. Adjust them by backing up and firmly applying the brakes a few times.

Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system -- for example, when your brake linings wear, down and you need new ones put in -- be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you don’t, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change -- for the worse. The braking performance you’ve come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.

6-34

Battery Your new vehicle comes with a maintenance free ACDelcoR battery. When it’s time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco battery. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for battery location. WARNING: Battery posts, terminals and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling.

Vehicle Storage If you’re not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more,remove the black, negative (-) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.

CAUTION:

Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you aren’t careful. See “Jump Starting” in the Index for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.

Contact your dealer to learn how to prepare your vehicle for longer storage periods. Also, for your audio system, see “Theft-Deterrent Feature” in the Index.

6-35

Bulb Replacement For the type of bulb to use, see “Replacement Bulbs” in the Index. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer. Halogen Bulbs

CAUTION:

Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.

6-36

Headlamps To replace one of the headlamps, do the following:

1. Remove the seven plastic fasteners from the shield.

Use a screwdriver to pull up the center of the fastener. Be careful not to break the fasteners that hold the shield in place.

2. Remove the front park and turn signal lamp. Follow

Step 2 under “Front Park and Turn Signal Lamps” later in this section.

3. Remove the two bolts from the headlamp assembly. Pull the headlamp assembly up and toward the front of the vehicle to access the bulb assembly.

4. Remove the black collar by turning it counterclockwise.

5. Disconnect the bulb base from the socket by lifting

the plastic locking tab.

6-37

Front Park and Turn Signal Lamps 1. Follow Step 1 under “Headlamps.”

6. Remove the bulb by pulling the bulb straight out. 7. Snap a new bulb into the socket. 8. Reinstall the bulb assembly by reversing

Steps 1 through 5, making sure the lower leg of the headlamp bracket is properly seated into the wedge-shaped retainer.

2. Place the tip of a screwdriver through the rectangle hole in the headlamp bracket. Apply pressure to the snap feature (toward the outboard side of the vehicle). Guide the lamp forward.

6-38

3. When the lamp is removed twist the socket to

remove from the lamp. (The bulb is connected to the wire harness).

5. Align the outboard pin to the outboard tab in the

bracket. Align the (two) inboard pins with the hole in the headlamp bracket.

4. Replace the bulb and reinstall the socket.

6-39

Taillamps and Rear Turn Signal Lamps

6. Push the front park and turn signal lamp straight in

until you hear a snap. The snap feature is visible through the slot in the headlamp bracket.

To replace a bulb, do the following: 1. Remove the fastener which holds down the trunk

trim. On vehicles without a convenience net, pry the fastener loose. On vehicles with a convenience net, remove the net and unscrew the fastener. Then pull down the trunk trim.

2. Remove the assembly by turning it one-quarter

turn counterclockwise.

6-40

3. To remove the bulb, pull it out. 4. Push in a new bulb. 5. Reverse all steps to reinstall the taillamp assembly.

Back-Up Lamps To replace a back-up lamp, do the following: 1. Open the trunk lid and locate the back-up lamp

assembly on the trunk lid.

2. Gently remove the bulb from the socket by turning it

counterclockwise and pulling it out.

3. Replace the bulb in the socket by aligning the tabs

and turning the bulb clockwise.

6-41

Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected at least twice a year for wear or cracking. See “Wiper Blade Check” in the index for more information. Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. For the proper type and length, see “Capacities and Specifications” in the Index. Here’s how to remove the Shepherd’s Hook type:

6-42

1. Pull the windshield wiper arm away from

the windshield.

2. Push the release lever and slide the wiper assembly

toward the driver’s side of the vehicle.

3. Install a new blade by reversing Steps 1 and 2.

Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your Chevrolet Warranty booklet for details.

CAUTION:

Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous. D Overloading your tires can cause

overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index.

CAUTION: (Continued)

CAUTION: (Continued)

D Underinflated tires pose the same danger as

overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold.

D Overinflated tires are more likely to be

cut, punctured or broken by a sudden impact -- such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure.

D Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If your

tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them.

6-43

Inflation -- Tire Pressure The Tire-Loading Information label, which is on the rear edge of the driver’s door, shows the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they’re cold. “Cold” means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km).

NOTICE:

Don’t let anyone tell you that underinflation or overinflation is all right. It’s not. If your tires don’t have enough air (underinflation), you can get the following: D Too much flexing D Too much heat D Tire overloading D Bad wear D Bad handling D Bad fuel economy

NOTICE: (Continued)

6-44

NOTICE: (Continued)

If your tires have too much air (overinflation), you can get the following: D Unusual wear D Bad handling D Rough ride D Needless damage from road hazards

When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Don’t forget your compact spare tire. It should be at 60 psi (420 kPa).

How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You can’t tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they’re underinflated. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.

Tire Inspection and Rotation Tires should be rotated every 6,000 to 8,000 miles (10 000 to 13 000 km). Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See “When It’s Time for New Tires” and “Wheel Replacement” later in this section for more information. The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The first rotation is the most important. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index for scheduled rotation intervals.

When rotating your tires, always use the correct rotation pattern shown here. Don’t include the compact spare tire in your tire rotation. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the Tire-Loading Information label. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” in the Index.

CAUTION:

Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off. See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index.

6-45

Buying New Tires To find out what kind and size of tires you need, look at the Tire-Loading Information label. The tires installed on your vehicle when it was new had a Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC Spec) number on each tire’s sidewall. When you get new tires, get ones with that same TPC Spec number. That way your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give proper endurance, handling, speed rating, traction, ride and other things during normal service on your vehicle. If your tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC number will be followed by an “MS” (for mud and snow). If you ever replace your tires with those not having a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating and construction type (bias, bias-belted or radial) as your original tires.

When It’s Time for New Tires

One way to tell when it’s time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining.

You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true: D You can see the indicators at three or more places

around the tire.

D You can see cord or fabric showing through the

tire’s rubber.

D The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged deep

enough to show cord or fabric.

D The tire has a bump, bulge or split. D The tire has a puncture, cut or other damage that

can’t be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage.

6-46

CAUTION:

Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes or types (radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the same size and type tires on all wheels. It’s all right to drive with your compact spare, though. It was developed for use on your vehicle.

CAUTION:

If you use bias-ply tires on your vehicle, the wheel rim flanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle.

Uniform Tire Quality Grading Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum section width. For example: Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, which grades tires by treadwear, traction and temperature performance. (This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.) The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards.

6-47

Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1 1/2) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction -- AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics.

Temperature -- A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.

6-48

Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. Scheduled wheel alignment and wheel balancing are not needed. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling one way or the other, the alignment may need to be reset. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your wheels may need to be rebalanced. Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked, or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your dealer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need. Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces. If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for your vehicle.

CAUTION:

Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for replacement.

NOTICE:

The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis.

See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index for more information.

6-49

Used Replacement Wheels

Tire Chains

CAUTION:

CAUTION:

Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is dangerous. You can’t know how it’s been used or how far it’s been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause a crash. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new GM original equipment wheel.

6-50

If your vehicle has P195/65R15 or P205/55R16
size tires, don’t use tire chains, there’s not enough clearance. Tire chains used on a vehicle without the proper amount of clearance can cause damage to the brakes, suspension or other vehicle parts. The area damaged by the tire chains could cause you to lose control of your vehicle and you or others may be injured in a crash. Use another type of traction device only if its manufacturer recommends it for use on your vehicle and tire size combination and road conditions. Follow that manufacturer’s instructions. To help avoid damage to your vehicle, drive slowly, readjust or remove the device if it’s contacting your vehicle, and don’t spin your wheels. If you do find traction devices that will fit, install them on the front tires.

NOTICE:

If your vehicle has a tire size other than P195/65R15 or P205/55R16 size tires, use tire chains only where legal and only when you must. Use only SAE Class “S” type chains that are the proper size for your tires. Install them on the front tires and tighten them as tightly as possible with the ends securely fastened. Drive slowly and follow the chain manufacturer’s instructions. If you can hear the chains contacting your vehicle, stop and retighten them. If the contact continues, slow down until it stops. Driving too fast or spinning the wheels with chains on will damage your vehicle.

Appearance Care Remember, cleaning products can be hazardous. Some are toxic. Others can burst into flame if you strike a match or get them on a hot part of the vehicle. Some are dangerous if you breathe their fumes in a closed space. When you use anything from a container to clean your vehicle, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s warnings and instructions. And always open your doors or windows when you’re cleaning the inside. Never use these to clean your vehicle: D Gasoline D Benzene D Naphtha D Carbon Tetrachloride D Acetone D Paint Thinner D Turpentine D Lacquer Thinner D Nail Polish Remover They can all be hazardous -- some more than others -- and they can all damage your vehicle, too.