2003 Chevrolet Blazer Owners Manual

Notice: Your warranty does not cover parts or components that fail because of overloading. If you put things inside your vehicle-like suitcases, tools, packages, or anything else-they will go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they’ll keep going.

Things you put inside and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or in a crash.

e c strike

Put things in the cargo area of your vehicle. Try to spread the weight evenly. Never stack heavier things, like suitcases, inside the vehicle so that some of them are above the tops of the seats. Don’t leave an unsecured child restraint in your vehicle. When you carry something inside the vehicle, secure it whenever you can. Don’t leave a seat folded down unless you need to.

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There’s also important loading information for off-road driving in this manual. Seeloading Your Vehicle for Off-Road Driving” under Off-Road Driving with Your Four- Wheel-Drive Vehicle on page 4-15. Payload The payload capacity is shown on the Certification/Tire label. This is the maximum load capacity that your vehicle can carry. Be sure to include the weight of the occupants as part of your load. If you added any accessories or equipment after your vehicle left the factory, remember to subtract the weight of these things from the payload. Your dealer can help you with this. Add-on Equipment When you carry removable items, you may need to put a limit on how many people you carry inside your vehicle. Be sure to weigh your vehicle before you buy and install the new equipment.

Notice: Your warranty does not cover parts or components that fail because of overloading.

I

IU don’t use the correct -uipment and

I1 drive properly, you can lose control when you pull a trailer. For example, if the trailer is too heavy, the brakes may not work well -- or even at all. You and your passengers could be seriously injured. Pull a trailer only if you have followed all the steps in this section. Ask your dealer for advice and information about towing a trailer with your vehicle.

Notice: Pulling a trailer improperly can damage your vehicle and result in costly repairs not covered by your warranty. To pull a trailer correctly, follow the advice in this part, and see your dealer for important information about towing a trailer with your vehicle. Additional rear axle maintenance is required for a vehicle used to tow a trailer. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index. To identify what the vehicle trailering capacity is for your vehicle, you should read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this section.

If yours was built with trailering options, as many are, it’s ready for heavier trailers. But trailering is different than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, durability and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly. That’s the reason for this part. In it are many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before you pull a trailer. If You Decide To Pull A Trailer If you do, here are some important points:

There are many different laws, including speed limit restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure your rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you’ll be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police. 0 Consider using a sway control if your trailer will weigh 3,500 Ibs. (1 589 kg) or less. You should always use a sway control if your trailer will weigh

, more than 3,500 Ibs. (1 589 kg). You can ask a

hitch dealer about sway controls. Don’t tow a trailer at all during the first 500 miles (800 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine, axle or other parts could be damaged.

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0

Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that you tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the heavier loads. If you have an automatic transmission, you can tow in DRIVE (D). You may want to shift the transmission to THIRD (3) or, if necessary, a lower gear selection if the transmission shifts too often (e.g., under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions). If you have a manual transmission and you are towing a trailer, it’s better not to use the highest gear. See Tow/Haul Mode Light on page 3-37.

Three important considerations have to do with weight:

the weight of the trailer, the weight of the trailer tongue and the weight on your vehicle’s tires.

Tow/Haul Mode Your vehicle may be equipped with a tow/haul feature. The tow/haul mode is a feature that assists when pulling a heavy trailer. The purpose of the tow/haul mode is:

Reduce the frequency of shifts when pulling a heavy trailer,

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provide the same shift feel when pulling a heavy trailer as when the vehicle is unloaded, and reduce the need to change throttle position when pulling a heavy trailer.

This feature is turned on or off by pressing a button on the floor console or the shift knob. When the feature is on, a light located on the instrument panel cluster will illuminate to indicate that the tow/haul mode has been selected. See Tow/Haul Mode Light on page 3-37. The tow/haul mode is automatically turned off each time the vehicle is started. The tow/haul mode is most effective when the vehicle and trailer combined weight is at least 75% of the Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR). The tow/haul mode for hauling a heavy trailer is most useful under the following conditions:

When driving through hilly terrain at speeds below 55 mph (88 km/h), when driving in low speed or stop and go traffic below 55 mph (88 km/h), and 0 when driving in parking lots.

Operating in the tow/haul mode when not pulling a heavy trailer will not cause damage to the vehicle, but you may experience reduced fuel economy and undesirable performance from the engine and transmission. The tow/haul mode should be used only when pulling a heavy trailer.

Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much your vehicle is used to puii a trailer are all important. And, it can also depend on any special equipment that you have on your vehicle. The following chart shows how much your trailer can weigh, based upon your vehicle model and options.

Vehicle Two-Wheel Drive, Two Door Auto.

I Two-Wheel Drive, Two Door Xtreme Blazer I Two-Wheel Drive, Two-Door Xtreme Blazer I Two-Wheel Drive, Two Door

Manual Trans.

Auto Trans.

Trans.

I Axle Ratio

3.42

3.42

3.42

3.42

Manual Trans.

Trailer Max.

I 5,700 Ibs. 2,000 Ibs. I 4,200 Ibs.

Wt.

(2 587 kg)

(90 kg)

(1 906 kq)

2,000 Ibs. (908 kg)

Four-wheel Drive, Two Door Auto. Trans.

I Four-wheel Drive, Two Door

Manual Trans.

ZR2, Auto Trans. ZR2, Manual Trans.

Four-wheel Drive, Four Door Auto. Trans.

1 ::% 1

3.42 5,400 Ibs. 3.73 5,400 Ibs. (2 451 kg) 3.42 3.73 3.73 4,200 Ibs. (1 905 kg)

(2 451 kg)

770 kg)

(2 132 kg)

3,900 Ibs. (1 4,700 Ibs.

5,000 Ibs. (2 768 kg) 768 kg) 5,000 Ibs. (2

6,500 Ibs. (2 951 kg)

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Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total or gross weight of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. And if you will tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load to the GVW because your vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-49 for more information about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.

Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming the driver and one passenger are in the tow vehicle and it has all the required trailering equipment. The weight of additional optional equipment, passengers and cargo in the tow vehicle must be subtracted from the maximum trailer weight. The weight of the trailer tongue also affects the maximum trailer weight. See “ Weight of the Trailer Tongue ” later in this section. * The Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR) is the total allowable weight of the completely loaded vehicle and trailer including any passengers, cargo, equipment and conversions. The GCWR for your vehicle should not be exceeded. You can ask your dealer for our trailering information or advice, or you can write us at the address listed in your Warranty and Owner Assistance Information Booklet. In Canada, write to: General Motors of Canada Limited Customer Communication Centre, 163-005 1908 Colonel Sam Drive Oshawa, Ontario L1 H 8P7

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A

If you’re using a weight-carrying or a weight-distributing hitch, the trailer tongue weight (A) should be 10 percent to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B). Do not exceed the maximum allowable tongue weight for your vehicle. After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they aren’t, you may be able to get them right simply by moving some items around in the trailer.

Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the upper limit for cold tires. You’ll find these numbers on the Certification label at the rear edge of the driver’s door or see ioading Your Vehicle on page 4-49. Then be sure you don’t go over the GVW limit for your vehicle, including the weight of the trailer tongue. Hitches It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch. Here are some rules to follow:

If you’ll be pulling a trailer that, when loaded, will weigh more than 3,500 Ibs. (1 589 kg), be sure to use a properly mounted, weight-distributing hitch and sway control of the proper size. This equipment is very important for proper vehicle loading and good handling when you’re driving. Will you have to make any holes in the body of your vehicle when you install a trailer hitch? If you do, then be sure to seal the holes later when you remove the hitch. If you don’t seal them, deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from your exhaust can get into your vehicle. See Engine Exhaust on page 2-39 and “Driving with a Trailer” later in this section. Dirt and water can, too.

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Safety Chains You should always attach chains between your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer to help prevent the tongue from contacting the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety chains and do not attach them to the bumper. Always leave just enough slack so you can turn with your rig. Never allow safety chains to drag on the ground. Trailer Brakes If your trailer weighs more than 1,000 Ibs. (450 kg) loaded, then it needs its own brakes - and they must be adequate. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install, adjust and maintain them properly.

Your trailer’s brake system can tap into the vehicle’s hydraulic brake system only if:

The trailer parts can withstand 3,000 psi (20 650 kPa) of pressure. The trailer’s brake system will use less than 0.02 cubic inch (0.3 cc) of fluid from your vehicle’s master cylinder. Otherwise, both braking systems won’t work well. You could even lose your brakes. If everything checks out this far, then make the brake fluid tap at the port on the master cylinder that sends fluid to the rear brakes. But don’t use copper tubing for this. If you do, it will bend and finally break off. Use steel brake tubing.

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--

Drivi-2 with a Trailer

rear-mos

w open anc * o u

If you have a pull a trailer with your vehicle, carbon monoxide (CO) could come into your vehicle. You can’t see or smell CO. It can cause unconsciousness or death. See “Engine Exhaust” in the Index. To maximize your safety when towing a trailer: * Have your exhaust system inspected for leaks, and make necessary repairs before starting on your trip. Keep the rear-most windows closed. If exhaust does come into your vehicle through a window in the rear or another opening, drive with your front, main heating or cooling system on and with the fan on any speed. This will bring fresh, outside air into your vehicle. Do not use the comfort control setting for maximum air because it only recirculates the air inside your vehicle. See “Comfort Controls” in the Index.

Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now a good deal ionger and not neariy as responsive as your vehicle is by itself. Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform (and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector, lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your electrical connection at the same time. During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working. Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns. Passing You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.

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Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you. Making Turns Notice: Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering. When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.

Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have extra wiring and a heavy-duty turn signal flasher (included in the optional trailering package). The arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other drivers you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop. When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working. Driving On Grades Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much that they would get hot and no longer work well.

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If you have an automatic transmission, you can tow in DRIVE (D). You may want to shift the transmission to THIRD (3) or, if necessary, a lower gear selection if the transmission shifts too often (e.g., under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions). Or, if you have a manual transmission and you are towing a trailer, it’s better not to use FIFTH (5) gear. Just drive in FOURTH (4) gear (or, as you need to, a lower gear). See Tow/Haul Mode Light on page 3-37. When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, consider the following: Engine coolant will boil at a lower temperature than at normal altitudes. If you turn your engine off immediately after towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs similar to engine overheating. To avoid this, let the engine run while parked (preferably on level ground) with the automatic transmission in PARK (P) (or the manual transmission out of gear and the parking brake applied) for a few minutes before turning the engine off. If you do get the overheat warning, see Engine Overheating on page 5-26.

Parking on Pills

You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged.

But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s how to do it: 1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into

PARK (P) yet, or into gear for a manual transmission. Then turn your wheels into the curb if facing downhill or into traffic if facing uphill.

2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer

wheels.

3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.

4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking brake, and then shift into PARK (P), or REVERSE (R) for a manual transmission.

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When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down

while you:

start your engine, shift into a gear, and release the parking brake.

2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks. 4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the

chocks.

5. If you have a

four-wheel-drive vehicle with an

automatic transfer case, be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear-not in NEUTRAL.

6 3elease the regular brakes.

It can be dangerous to get out of your vehicle is not fully in PARK (P) with the if the shift lever parking brake firmly set. Your vehicle can roll. If you have left the engine running, the vehicle can move suddenly. You or others could be injured. To be sure your vehicle won't move, even when you're on fairly level ground, use the steps that follow. Always put the shift lever fully in PARK (P) with the parking brake firmly set. If the transfer case on four-wheel drive vehicles is in NEUTRAL, your vehicle will be free to roll, is in even if your shift lever PARK (P). So, be sure the transfer case drive gear -- not in NEUTRAL. See "Four-Wheel Drive (Automatic Transfer C a s e ) in the Index.

is in a

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Maintenance When Trailer Towing Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more on this. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transmission fluid (don’t overfill), engine oil, axle lubricant, belt, cooling system and brake system. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review these sections before you start your trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight. Trailer Wiring Harness The light-duty trailer wiring is a six-wire harness assembly. The optional heavy-duty trailer wiring is an eight-wire harness assembly. The harnesses are stored under the vehicle, along the passenger-side frame crossmember on two-door vehicles or on the driver’s side corner frame rear crossmember on four-door vehicles. The heavy-duty trailer wiring is fused in the engine compartment fuse block. See Fuses and Circuit Breakers on page 5-88. Both harnesses have no connector and should be wired by a qualified electrical technician. The technician can use the following color code chart when connecting the wiring harness to your trailer.

Dark Blue: Use for electric trailer brakes or auxiliary wiring (eight-wire harness only).

Red: Use for battery charging; it connects to the starter solenoid (eight-wire harness only). Light Green: Back-up lamps.

0 Brown: Taillamps and parking lamps. 0 Yellow: Driver’s side stoplamp and turn signal.

Dark Green: Passenger’s side stoplamp and turn signal. White: Ground wire. Light Blue: Auxiliary stoplamp.

Securely attach the harness to the trailer, then tape or strap it to your vehicle’s frame rail. Be sure you leave it loose enough so the wiring doesn’t bend or break, but not so loose that it drags on the ground. Store the harness in its original place. Wrap the harness together and tie it neatly so it won’t be damaged.

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Section 5 Service and Appearance Care

Service ............................................................ 5.3 Doing Your Own Service Work ......................... 5-4 Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your

...............................

Vehicle ......................................................

5-4 Fuel ................................................................ 5-5 ..... 5-5 Gasoline Octane Gasoline Specifications .................................... 5-5 California Fuel ............................................... 5-6 Additives ....................................................... 5-6 Fuels in Foreign Countries ............................... 5-6 Filling Your Tank ............................................ 5-7 Filling a Portable Fuel Container ....................... 5-9

Checking Things Under

the Hood .................................................... 5-10 Hood Release .............................................. 5-10 Engine Compartment Overview ....................... 5-12 Engine Oil ................................................... 5-13 Engine Air CleanedFilter ................................ 5-17 Automatic Transmission Fluid ........................ 5-18 Manual Transmission Fluid ............................. 5-21 Hydraulic Clutch ........................................... 5-22 Engine Coolant ............................................. 5-23 Radiator Pressure Cap .................................. 5-26 Engine Overheating ....................................... 5-26 Cooling System ............................................ 5-28 Engine Fan Noise ......................................... 5-35

.......................

................... -5-48

Power Steering Fluid ..................................... 5.36 Windshield Washer Fluid ................................ 5-37 Brakes ........................................................ 5.38 Battery ........................................................ 5.41 Jump Starting ............................................... 5-42 Rear Axle ....................................................... 5.46 Four-wheel Drive ............................................ 5.47 Front Axle Bulb Replacement .......................................... 5.49 Halogen Bulbs .............................................. 5.49 Headlamps .................................................. 5.49 One-Piece Front Turn Signal Lamps ................ 5-51 Two-Piece Front Turn Signal Lamps ................ 5-52 Taillamps ..................................................... 5.53 Replacement Bulbs ....................................... 5.53 Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement .............. 5.54 Tires .............................................................. 5.57 Inflation .. Tire Pressure ................................ 5.58 Tire Inspection and Rotation ........................... 5.58 When It Is Time for New Tires ....................... 5-60 Buying New Tires ......................................... 5.60 Uniform Tire Quality Grading .......................... 5.61 Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance .................. 5-63 Wheel Replacement ..................................... -5-63 Tire Chains .................................................. 5.64

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Section 5

Service and Appearance Care

If a Tire Goes Flat ........................................ 5-65 Changing a Flat Tire ..................................... 5-66 Compact Spare Tire ...................................... 5.78 Spare Tire ................................................... 5.78 Appearance Care ............................................ 5.79 Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle ................. 5-79 Care of Safety Belts ...................................... 5-81 Weatherstrips ............................................... 5-81 Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle .............. 5-82 Sheet Metal Damage ..................................... 5-84 Finish Damage ............................................ 5-84 Underbody Maintenance ................................ 5-85 Chemical Paint Spotting ................................. 5-85 GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials ......... -5-85

Vehicle Identification ...................................... 5.87 Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) ................. 5.87 Service Parts Identification Label ..................... 5.87 Electrical System ............................................ 5.88 Add-on Electrical Equipment .......................... 5.88 Headlamps .................................................. 5.88 Windshield Wiper Fuses ................................ 5.88 Power Windows and Other Power Options ....... 5-88 Fuses and Circuit Breakers ............................ 5.88 Capacities and Specifications .......................... 5.94 Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts .......... 5.96

5-2

Service Your dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you’ll go to your dealer for all your service needs. You’ll get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people.

We hope you’ll want to keep your GM vehicle all GM. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:

5-3

Doing Your Own Service Work

If you want to do some of your own service work, you’ll want to use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 7- 1 1. Your vehicle may have an air bag system. If it does, see Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-57 before attempting to do your own service work. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See Par? E: Maintenance Record on page 6-35.

5-4

You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it.

Be sure you have sufficient knowledge, experience, the proper replacement parts and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task. Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts and other fasteners. “English” and “metric” fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.

Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airflow around it. This may cause wind noise and affect windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle.

Fuel Use of the recommended fuel is an important part of the proper maintenance of your vehicle. Gasoline Octane Use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane of 87 or higher. If the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. Otherwise, you might damage your engine. A little pinging noise when you accelerate or drive uphill is considered normal. This does not indicate a problem exists or that a higher-octane fuel is necessary. If you are using 87 octane or higher-octane fuel and hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service.

Gasoline Specifications It is recommended that gasoline meet specifications which were developed by the American Automobile Manufacturers Association and endorsed by the Canadian Vehicle Manufacturers Association for better vehicle performance and engine protection. Gasoline meeting these specifications could provide improved driveability and emission control system performance compared to other gasoline.

In Canada, look for the “Auto Makers’ Choice” label on the pump.

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California Fuel If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emission Standards (see the underhood emission control label), it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on (see Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-32 ) and your vehicle may fail a smog-check test. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs may not be covered by your warranty. Additives To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that will help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing your emission control system to work properly. You should not have to add anything to your fuel. Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in your area to contribute to clean air. General Motors recommends that you use these gasolines, particularly if they comply with the specifications described earlier.

5-6

Notice: Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Don’t use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage the plastic and rubber parts. That damage wouldn’t be covered under your warranty. Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT. General Motors does not recommend the use of such gasolines. Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for service. Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. To check the fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you’ll be driving.

Fillir Your Tank

Fuel vapor is highly flammable. It burns violently, and that can cause very bad injuries. Don’t smoke if you’re near fuel or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, flames and smoking materials away from fuel.

The fuel cap is located behind a hinged door on the driver’s side of your vehicle.

5-7

If you get fuel on yourself anc d e n something ignites it, you could be badly burned. Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any “hiss” noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.

Be careful not to spill fuel. Clean fuel from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle on page 5-82. When filling the tank do not overfill by squeezing in much more fuel after the pump shuts off.

While refueling, hang the cap by the tether from the hook on the fuel filler door. To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly to the left (counterclockwise).

5-8

fuel cap back on, turn it to the right

When you put the (clockwise) until you hear a clicking sound. Make sure you fully install the cap. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-32.

left off or improperly

Notice: If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage your fuel tank and emissions system. See “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index.

Filling a Portable Fuel ContPier

I a portable fuel co liner ile

_ _ __ .n lever your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others:

Dispense gasoline only into approved containers.

0 Do not fill a container while it is inside a

vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed or on any surface other than the ground.

0 Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the

inside of the fill opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the filling is complete.

* Don’t smoke while pumping gasoline.

5-9

Checking Things Under the Hood

Hood Release

To open the hood, do the following:

1. Pull the handle located

inside the vehicle on the lower left side of the instrument panel.

Things th burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.

2. Lift the hood.

5-1 0

3. Release the hood prop from its retainer and put the

hood prop into the slot in the hood.

Before closing the hood, be sure all the filler caps are on properly. Then lift the hood to relieve pressure on the hood prop. Remove the hood prop from the slot in the hood and return the prop to its retainer. Then, pull the hood down firmly to close. It will latch when dropped from about 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm) without pressing on the hood.

5-1 1

.. Y

A. Battery B. Coolant Recovery Tank C. Engine Oil Dipstick D. Engine Oil Fill E. Automatic Transmission Dipstick (If Equipped) F. Power Steering Reservoir G. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir H. Engine Air CleanedFilter I. Clutch Master Cylinder Reservoir J. Engine Compartment Fuse Block K. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir

Engine Oil Checking Engine Oil It’s a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.

The oil dipstick handle is a yellow ring located in the engine compartment toward the passenger side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-72 for more information on location.

Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you don’t, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.

5-1 3

A

The engine oil fill cap is located in the engine compartment toward the passenger side of the vehicle.

See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5- more information on the location of the engine oil fill cap. Be sure to fill it enough to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you're through.

12

for

When to Add Engine Oil If the oil is at or below the ADD line, then you'll need to add at least one quart of oil. But you must use the right kind. This part explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Specifications on page 5-94. Notice: Don't add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged.

5-1 4

What Kind of Engine Oil to Use Oils recommended for your vehicle can be identified by looking for the starburst s

iyt nbol.

This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API). Do not use any oil which does not carry this starburst symbol.

RECOMMENDED SAE VISCOSITY GRADE ENGINE

OILS

HOT WEATHER

-r

LOOK

FOR THIS SYMBOL

+lo[

I - -

- t38

+ 80

I - -

- +27

If you choose to perform the engine oil change service yourself, be sure the oil you use has the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. If you have your oil changed for you, be sure the oil put into your engine is American Petroleum Institute certified for gasoline engines. You should also use the proper viscosity oil for your vehicle, as shown in the viscosity chart.

+ 60

I - -

t 16

t40--

. + 4

t20 - -

- - 7

O - -

~ - 1 8 I

COLD

WEATHER

RECOMMENDED

DO NOT USE SAE 10W-40, SAE 20W-50 OR ANY OTHER VISCOSITY GRADE OIL NOT RECOMMENDED

5-1 5

As in the chart shown previously, SAE 5W-30 is the only viscosity grade recommended for your vehicle. You should look for and use only oils which have the API Starburst symbol and which are also identified as SAE 5W-30. If you cannot find such SAE 5W-30 oils, you can use an SAE 1OW-30 oil which has the API Starburst symbol, if it's going to be 0°F (-18°C) or above. Do not use other viscosity grade oils, such as SAE IOW-40 or SAE 20W-50 under any conditions.

Notice: Use only engine oil with the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty. GM Goodwrench@ oil meets all the requirements for your vehicle. If you are in an area of extreme cold, where the temperature falls below -20°F (-29"C), recommended that you use either an SAE 5W-30 synthetic oil or an SAE OW-30 oil. Both will provide easier cold starting and better protection for your engine at extremely low temperatures. Engine Oil Additives Don't add anything to your oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol are all you will need for good performance and engine protection. 5-1 6

it is

When to Change Engine Oil If any one of these is true for you, use the short tripkity maintenance schedule:

Most trips are less than 5 miles (8 km). This is particularly important when outside temperatures are below freezing. Most trips include extensive idling (such as frequent driving in stop-and-go traffic). You frequently tow a trailer or use a carrier on top of your vehicle. The vehicle is used for delivery service, police, taxi or other commercial application.

Driving under these conditions causes engine oil to break down sooner. If any one of these is true for your vehicle, then you need to change your oil and filter every 3,000 miles (5 000 km) or 3 months - whichever occurs first. If none of them is true, use the long trip/highway maintenance schedule. Change the oil and filter every 7,500 miles (12 500 km) or 12 months - whichever occurs first. Driving a vehicle with a fully warmed engine under highway conditions will cause engine oil to break down slower.

Remote Oil Filter (Four-wheel Drive)

The access door for the remote oil filter is in the steering linkage shield assembly located under the radiator support. Turn the screw to unlock or lock the door. If you open the door, make sure it is securely closed when you are finished.

What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Don’t let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the filter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into

streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help.

Engine Air Cleaner/Filter

The engine air cleaner/filter is located toward the front of the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on the location of the engine air cleanedfilter.

5-1 7

To check or replace the engine air cleaner/filter do the following: 1. Remove the fasteners that hold the cover on and

remove the cover.

2. Lift out the engine air cleaner/filter. 3. Insert a new air filter, if needed. See Normal

Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 5-96 to determine which filter to use.

4. Reinstall the engine air cleaner/filter cover. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to replace the engine air cleaner/filter. See Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services on page 6-4.

the e...Jne w . ~ . . the a,, cleaner/filter

Ob,.-ati.,, off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air, it stops flame if the engine backfires. If it isn’t there and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Don’t drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.

5-1 8

Nofices If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleanedfilter in place when you’re driving. Automatic Transmission Fluid When to Check and Change A good time to check your automatic transmission fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change both the fluid and filter every 15,000 miles (25 000 km) if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions:

In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or higher. In hilly or mountainous terrain. When doing frequent trailer towing. Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service.

If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, change the fluid and filter every 50,000 miles (83 000 km). See Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services on page 6-4.

How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.

Notice: Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine part or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Too little fluid could cause the transmission to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid. Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission fluid level if you have been driving: 0 When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C)

At high speed for quite a while. In heavy traffic - especially in hot weather. While pulling a trailer.

To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C).

Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (1 0°C). If it’s colder than 50°F (1 OOC), drive the vehicle in THIRD (3) until the engine temperature gage moves and then remains steady for 10 minutes. A cold fluid check can be made after the vehicle has been sitting for eight hours or more with the engine off, but this is used only as a reference. Let the engine run at idle for five minutes if outside temperatures are 50°F (1 0°C) or more. If it’s colder than 50°F (IOOC), you may have to idle the engine longer. Should the fluid level be low during this cold check, you must check the fluid hot before adding fluid. Checking the fluid hot will give you a more accurate reading of the fluid level. Checking the Fluid Level Prepare your vehicle as follows:

Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine running. With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever in PARK (P). With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P). Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more.

5-1 9

Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps: -1 The transmission dipstick

Q/0 onit-

handle has this symbol

The transmission dipstick is located near the center of the engine compartment. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-72 for more information on location. 1. Flip the handle up and then pull out the dipstick

and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.

2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and

then pull it back out again.

3. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the

dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.

How to Add Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transmission fluid to use. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-33. Add fluid only after checking the transmission fluid while it is hot. (A cold check is used only as a reference.) If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level up to the HOT area for a hot check. It doesn’t take much fluid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Don’t overfill.

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111, because fluid with that label is

Notice: We recommend you use only fluid labeled DEXRON@’ made especially for your automatic transmission. Damage caused by fluid other than DEXRON@ 111 is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as described under “How to Check. When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.

Manual Transmission Fluid When to Check A good time to have it checked is when the engine oil is changed. However, the fluid in your manual transmission doesn’t require changing.

How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at your GM dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading. Notice: Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine part or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Too little fluid could cause the transmission to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid. Check the fluid level only when your engine is off, the vehicle is parked on a level place and the transmission is cool enough for you to rest your fingers on the transmission case.

5-2 1

Then, follow these steps:

How to Add Fluid Here’s how to add fluid. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of fluid to use. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-33. 1. Remove the filler plug. 2. Add fluid at the filler plug hole. Add only enough

fluid to bring the fluid level up to the bottom of the filler plug hole.

3. Install the filler plug. Be sure the plug is fully

seated.

Hydraulic Clutch The hvdraulic clutch linkage in your vehicle is self-adjusting. The clutch master

filled with hydraulic clutch fluid. It is not

you suspect there is a leak in the system. Adding fluid won’t correct a leak.

necessary to check regularly clutch

reservoir

cylinder

is

fluid unless

A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.

1. 2.

3.

Remove the filler plug. Check that the lubricant level is up to the bottom of the filler plug hole. If the fluid level is good, install the plug and be sure it is fully seated. If the fluid level is low, add more fluid as described in the next steps.

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When to Check and What to Use

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often you should check the fluid level in your clutch master cylinder reservoir and for the proper fluid. See Part B: Owner Checks and Services on page 6-26 and Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-33.

How to Check and Add Fluid The proper fluid should be added if the level does not reach the bottom of the diaphragm when it’s in place in the reservoir. See the instructions on the reservoir cap. Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with DEX-COOL@ engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for 5 years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if you add only DEX-COOL@ extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating on page 5-26.

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A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL@ coolant will:

Give freezing protection down to -34°F (-37°C). Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C). Protect against rust and corrosion. Help keep the proper engine temperature. Let the warning lights and gages work as they should.

Notice: When adding coolant, it is important that you use only DEX-COOL@ (silicate-free) coolant. If coolant other than DEX-COOL@ is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine coolant will require change sooner -- at 30,000 miles (50,000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Damage caused by the use of coolant other than DEX-COOL@ is not covered by your new vehicle warranty. What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL@ coolant which won’t damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you don’t need to add anything else.

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Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and the proper coolant.

Notice: If you use an improper coolant mixture, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system. Notices If you use the proper coolant, you don’t have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful.

Checking Coolant

'le coolant recovery tank. .

Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOL@ coolant mixture a

The coolant recovery tank is located in the engine compartment near the passenger side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at ADD, or a little higher. When your engine is warm, the level should be up to FULL HOT, or a little higher.

Turning the radiator pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. With the coolant recovery tank, you will almost never have to add coolant at the radiator. Never turn the radiator pressure cap -- even a little -- when the engine and radiator are hot.

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Add coolant mixture at the recovery tank, but be careful not to spill it.

Radiator Pressure Cap

)u can be burnel-. .F you sp ... coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.

Occasionally check the coolant level in the radiator. For information on how to add coolant to the radiator, see Cooling System on page 5-28.

Notice: Your radiator pressure cap is a 15 psi (105 kPa) pressure-type cap and must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss and possible engine damage from overheating. Be sure the arrows on the cap line up with the overflow tube on the radiator filler neck. Engine Overheating You will find a coolant temperature gage on your vehicle’s instrument panel. See Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 3-3 1.

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If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine

Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until

it cools down.

CAUTIQN: (Continued)

Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool.

Notice: If your engine catches fire because you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty. If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine If you get an engine overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: 0 Climb a long hill on a hot day. Stop after high-speed driving. Idle for long periods in traffic.

0 Tow a trailer. See “Driving on Grades” under

To wing a Trailer on page 4-5 1.

5-27

If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so:

1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in NEUTRAL while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL and let the engine idle.

2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan

speed and open the window as necessary.

If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning doesn't come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there's still no sign of steam, idle the engine for three minutes while you're parked. Push down the accelerator until the engine speed is about twice as fast as normal idle speed for at least three minutes while you're parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.

5-28

Cooling System

When you decide it's safe to lift the hood, here's what you'll see:

A. Coolant Recovery Tank B. Radiator Pressure Cap C. Engine Cooling Fan If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, don't do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface.

When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be at least up to the ADD mark. If it isn’t, you may have a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system.

Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Don’t touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Don’t run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.

If there seems to be no leak, start the engine again. The engine cooling fan speed should increase when idle speed is doubled by pushing the accelerator pedal down. If it doesn’t, your vehicle needs service. Turn off the engine. Notice: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant isn’t covered by your warranty.

5-29

Notice: When adding coolant, it is important that you use only DEX-COOL@ (silicate-free) coolant. If coolant other than DEX-COOL@ is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine coolant will require change sooner - at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Damage caused by the use of coolant other than DEX-COOL@ is not covered by your new vehicle warranty. How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Recovery Tank If you haven’t found a problem yet, but the coolant level isn’t at the ADD mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL@ engine coolant at the coolant recovery tank. See Engine Coolant on page 5-23 for more information.

Adding only plam water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX COOL@’ coolant.

Notice: In cold weather, water can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture.

5-30

I

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot

I enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.

When the coolant in the coolant recovery tank is at the ADD mark, start your vehicle. If the overheat warning continues, there’s one more thing you can try. You can add the proper mixture directly to the radiator, but be sure the cooling system is cool before you do it.

5-31

How to Add Coolant to the Radiator

1. You can remove the radiator pressure cap when

the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise until it first stops. (Don’t press down while turning the pressure cap.) If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.

Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the radiator pressure cap -- even a little -- they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and radiator pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.

5-32

2. Then keep turning the pressure cap, but now push

down as you turn it. Remove the pressure cap.

3. Fill the radiator with the proper DEX-COOL coolant mixture, up to the base of the filler neck. See Engine Coolant on page 5-23 for more information about the proper coolant mixture.

5-33

4. Then fill the coolant recovery tank to ADD mark. 5. Put the cap back on the coolant recovery tank, but

leave the radiator pressure cap off.

6. Start the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fan.

7. By this time, the coolant level inside the radiator filler neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper DEX-COOL@ coolant mixture through the filler neck until the level reaches the base of the filler neck.

5-34

8. Then replace the pressure cap. At any time during

this procedure if coolant begins to flow out of the filler neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure the arrow on the pressure cap lines up like this.

Engine Fan Noise This vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide more air to cool the engine. In most everyday driving conditions, the clutch is not engaged. This improves fuel economy and reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing and/or high outside temperatures, the fan speed increases when the clutch engages. So you may hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and should not be mistaken as the transmission slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system functioning properly. The fan will slow down when additional cooling is not required and the clutch disengages. You may also hear this fan noise when you start the engine. It will go away as the fan clutch disengages.

5-35

Power Steering Fluid The power steering reservoir is located near the front of the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle.

When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-72 for reservoir location. How to Check Power Steering Fluid Turn the key off, let the engine compartment cool down, wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean, then unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. Then remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on the dipstick. The level should be between the ADD and FULL marks. If necessary, add only enough fluid to bring the level up to the proper range. What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-33. Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.

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Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. if you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing. Adding Washer Fluid The windshield washer fluid reservoir is located toward the front of the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-72 for more information on location.

/ - / \

Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer fluid until the tank is full.

Notice:

When using concentrated washer fluid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water. Don’t mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water doesn’t clean as well as washer fluid. Fill your washer fluid tank only three-quarters full when it’s very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full. Don’t use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.

5-37

Brakes Brake Fluid

Your brake master cylinder reservoir is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the reservoir. There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is

5-38

that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes won’t work well, or won’t work at all. So, it isn’t a good idea to “top off your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid won’t correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you’ll have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add (or remove) brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic s’--’ern.

If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. See “Checking Brake Fluid” in this section.

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to check your brake fluid. See Part C: Periodic Maintenance Inspections on page 6-31.

Checking Brake YOU can check the brake fluid without taking off the cap.

Fluid

Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.

Just look at the brake fluid reservoir. The fluid level should be above MIN. If it isn’t have your brake system checked to see if there is a leak.

With the wrong kind of fluid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.

After work is done on the brake hydraulic system, make sure the level is above the MIN but not over the MAX mark. What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-33.

Notice:

Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they’ll have to be replaced. Don’t let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See “Appearance Care” in the Index.

5-39

Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM torque specifications. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. See Brake System Inspection on page 6-32. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you make a brake stop, your disc brakes adjust for wear.

Brake Wear Your vehicle has four-wheel disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving (except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firm’--’

The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes won’t work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.

Notice; Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair.

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Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system - for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in - be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you don’t, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change - for the worse. The braking performance you’ve come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts. Battery Your new vehicle comes with a maintenance free ACDelco@ battery. When it’s time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco@ battery. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-72 for battery location. Warning: Battery posts, terminals and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling.

Vehicle Storage If you’re not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (-) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.

ries have acid that call durn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you aren’t careful. See “Jump Starting” next for tips on working around a battery without

Contact your dealer to learn how to prepare your vehicle for longer storage periods. Also, for your audio system, see Theft-Deterrent Feature (Non-RDS Radios) on page 3-68 or Theft-Deterrent Feature (RDS Radios) on page 3-69.

5-4 1

Jump Starting

If your battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to follow the steps below to do it safely.

Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:

They contain acid that can burn you. They contain gas that can explode or ignite. They contain enough electricity to burn you.

If you don’t follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.

Notice: Ignoring these steps could result in costly damage to your vehicle that wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it won’t work, and it could damage your vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt

battery with a negative ground system.

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Notice: If the other system isn’t a 12-volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles aren’t touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you don’t want. You wouldn’t be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transmission in PARK (P) or a manual transmission in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure the transfer case is not in NEUTRAL (N).

Notice: If you leave your radio on, it could be badly damaged. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug

unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or in the accessory power outlets. Turn off the radio and all lamps that aren’t needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save your radio!

4. Open the hoods and locate the batteries. Find the positive (+) and negative (-) terminal locations on each vehicle. See Engine Compariment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location of the battery.

ttery

tch near a battery can cause

Using a I gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the batteries have enough water. You don’t need to add water to the ACDelco@ battery (or batteries) installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you don’t, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Don’t get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.

Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.

5. Check that the jumper cables don’t have loose or

missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (-) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (-) terminal if the vehicle has one. Don’t connect positive (+) to negative (-) or you’ll get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And don’t connect the negative(-) cable to the negative (-) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks.

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6. Connect the red

positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

8. Now connect the black

negative (-) cable to the negative (-) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (-) terminal if the vehicle has one.

. . .

7. Don’t let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

9. Don’t let the other end touch anything until the next

step. The other end of the negative (-) cable doesn’t go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part, or to a remote negative (-) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.

10. Connect the other end of the negative (-) cable at

least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less.

11. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run

the engine for awhile.

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12. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery. If

it won’t start after a few tries, it probably needs service.

Nofice: Damage to your vehicle may result from electrical shorting if jumper cables are removed incorrectly. To prevent electrical shorting, take care that the cables don’t touch each other or any other metal. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.

To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (-) cable from the

vehicle that had the dead battery.

2. Disconnect the black negative (-) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other

vehicle.

A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part B. Good Battery 5. Dead Battery

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Rear Axle When to Check and Change Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services on page 6-4. How to Check Lubricant

If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Pat? D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-33.

To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface.

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How to Check Lubricant

Four-wheel Drive Lubricant checks in this section also apply to these vehicles. However, there are two additional systems that need lubrication. Transfer Case When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See Part C: Periodic Maintenance Inspections on page 6-31.

To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. Use care not to overtighten the plug. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-33.

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Front Axle When to Check and Change Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services on page 6-4. How to Check Lubricant

If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you may need to add some lubricant. When the differential is cold, add enough lubricant to raise the level to 1/2 inch (12 mm) below the filler plug hole. When the differential is at operating temperature (warm), add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.