2003 Chevrolet Blazer Owners Manual

the same scenery, along with the hum of the tires on the road, the drone of the engine, and the rush of the wind against the vehicle that can make you sleepy. Don’t let it happen to you! If it does, your vehicle can leave the road in less than a second, and you could crash and be injured. What can you do about highway hypnosis? First, be aware that it can happen. Then here are some tips:

Make sure your vehicle is well ventilated, with a comfortably cool interior. Keep your eyes moving. Scan the road ahead and to the sides. Check your mirrors and your instruments frequently. If you get sleepy, pull off the road into a rest, service or parking area and take a nap, get some exercise, or both. For safety, treat drowsiness on the highway as an emergency.

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If you drive regularly in steep country, or if you’re planning to visit there, here are some tips that can make your trips safer and more enjoyable. See Off-Road Driving with Your Four-Wheel-Drive Vehicle on page 4-15 for information about driving off-road.

Keep your vehicle in good shape. Check all fluid levels and also the brakes, tires, cooling system and transmission. These parts can work hard on mountain roads. Know how to go down hills. The most important thing to know is this: let your engine do some of the slowing down. Shift to a lower gear when you go down a steep or L...,., +ill.

If you don’t shift down, your brakes could get so hot that they wouldn’t work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Shift down to let your engine assist your brakes on a steep downhill slope.

NEI-

,L (N) or wi

Coasting downhill in ignition off is dangerous. Your brakes will have to do all the work of slowing down. They could get so hot that they wouldn’t work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Always have your engine running and your vehicle in gear when you go downhill.

9 Know how to go uphill. You may want to shift down

to a lower gear. The lower gears help cool your engine and transmission, and you can climb the hill better. Stay in your own lane when driving on two-lane roads in hills or mountains. Don’t swing wide or cut across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let you stay in your own lane.

0 As you go over the top of a hill, be alert. There

could be something in your lane, like a stalled car or an accident.

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You may see highway signs on mountains that warn of special problems. Examples are long grades, passing or no-passing zones, a falling rocks area or winding roads. Be alert to these and take appropriate action. Winter Driving

Here are some tips for winter driving:

Have your vehicle in good shape for winter. You may want to put winter emergency supplies in your vehicle.

Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a supply of windshield washer fluid, a rag, some winter outer clothing, a small shovel, a flashlight, a red cloth and reflective warning triangles. And, if you will be driving under severe conditions, include a small bag of sand, a piece of old carpet or a couple of burlap bags to help provide traction. Be sure you properly secure these items in your vehicle. Driving on Snow or Ice Most of the time, those places where your tires meet the road probably have good traction. However, if there is snow or ice between your tires and the road, you can have a very slippery situation. You’ll have a lot less traction or “grip” and will need to be very careful.

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Accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction. If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and polish the surface under the tires even more. Your anti-lock brakes improve your vehicle’s stability when you make a hard stop on a slippery road. Even though you have an anti-lock braking system, you’ll want to begin stopping sooner than you would on dry pavement. See Braking on page 4-8.

Allow greater following distance on any slippery road. Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine until you hit a spot that’s covered with ice. On an otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in shaded areas where the sun can’t reach: around clumps of trees, behind buildings or under bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass may remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you are on it. Try not to brake while you’re actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers.

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What’s the worst time for this? “Wet ice.” Very cold snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice can be even more trouble because it may offer the least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it’s about freezing (32°F; OOC) and freezing rain begins to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews can get there. Whatever the condition - smooth ice, packed, blowing or loose snow - drive with caution.

If You’re Caught in a Blizzard

Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police that you’ve been stopped by the snow. Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around you. If you have no blankets or extra clothing, make body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags, floor mats - anything you can wrap around yourself or tuck under your clothing to keep warm.

If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a serious situation. You should probably stay with your vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near help and you can hike through the snow. Here are some things to do to summon help and keep yourself and your passengers safe:

. . .

Turn on your hazard

flashers.

You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.

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exhaust gases under your

Snow can tr vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you. You can’t see it or smell it, so you might not know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking your exhaust pipe. And check around again from time to time to be sure snow doesn’t collect there. Open a window just a little on the side of the vehicle that’s away from the wind. This will help keep CO out.

Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps the battery charged. You will need a well-charged battery to restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with your headlamps. Let the heater run for a while. Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again and repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or so until help comes.

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If You Are Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you will need to spin the wheels, but you don’t want to spin your wheels too fast. The method known as “rocking” can help you get out when you’re stuck, but you must use caution.

If you let your tires spin at high speed, they can explode, and you or others could be injured. And, the transmission or other parts of the vehicle can overheat. That could cause an engine compartment fire or other damage. When you’re stuck, spin the wheels as little as possible. Don’t spin the wheels above 25 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.

Notice: Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting your transmission back and forth, you can destroy your transmission. For information about using tire chains on your vehicle, see Tire Chains on page 5-64.

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Using the Recovery Hooks

Rocking Your Vehicle To Get It Out First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will clear the area around your front wheels. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, shift into 4HI. Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear (or with a manual transmission, between FIRST (1) or SECOND (2) and REVERSE (R)), spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear. By slowly spinning your wheels in the forward and reverse directions, you will cause a rocking motion that may free your vehicle. If that doesn’t get you out after a few tries, you may need to be towed out. Or, you can use your recovery hooks if your vehicle has them. If you do need to be towed out, see Towing Your Vehicle on page 4-45.

Your vehicle may be equipped with recovery hooks. The hooks are provided at the front of your vehicle. You may need to use them if you’re stuck off-road and need to be pulled to some place where you can continue driving.

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These hooks, when used, are under a lot of force. Always pull the vehicle straight out. Never pull on the hooks at a sideways angle. The hooks could break off and you or others could be injured from the chain or cable snapping back.

Notice: Never use recovery hooks to tow the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged and it would not be covered by warranty.

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Towing

Towing Your Vehicle Consult your dealer or a professional towing service if you need to have your disabled vehicle towed. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-6. If you want to tow your vehicle behind another vehicle for recreational purposes (such as behind a motorhome), see “Recreational Vehicle Towing” following. Recreational Vehicle Towing Recreational vehicle towing means towing your vehicle behind another vehicle - such as behind a motorhome. The two most common types of recreational vehicle towing are known as “dinghy towing” (towing your vehicle with all four wheels on the ground) and “dolly towing” (towing your vehicle with two wheels on the ground and two wheels up on a device known as a “dolly”).

With the proper preparation and equipment, many vehicles can be towed in these ways. See Dinghy Towing and Dolly Towing, following. Here are some important things to consider before you do recreational vehicle towing:

What’s the towing capacity of the towing vehicle? Be sure you read the tow vehicle manufacturer’s recommendations. How far will you tow? Some vehicles have restrictions on how far and how long they can tow. Do you have the proper towing equipment? See your dealer or trailering professional for additional advice and equipment recommendations. Is your vehicle ready to be towed? Just as you would prepare your vehicle for a long trip, you’ll want to make sure your vehicle is prepared to be towed. See Before Leaving on a Long Trip on page 4-35.

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In rare cases when it’s unavoidable and your vehicle must be towed with all four wheels on the ground, the propeller shaft to axle yoke orientation should be marked and the propeller shaft removed following the applicable service manual removaVinstallation procedure. See Service Publications Ordering Information on page 7- I 1. Dust or dirt can enter the back of the transmission through the opening created by removing the propeller shaft if proper protection is not provided. Also, check the transmission fluid level before driving the vehicle. When towing your vehicle, turn the ignition to OFF. To prevent your battery from draining while towing, remove the RDO BATT and CLSTR fuses from the instrument panel fuse block. Be sure to replace the fuse when you reach your destination. See Fuses and Circuit Breakers on page 5-88. Be sure to use the proper towing equipment designed for recreational vehicle towing. Follow the instructions for the towing equipment.

Dinghy Towing

Two-Wheel Drive Vehicles Only

Nofice: Towing your vehicle with all four wheels on the ground will damage drivetrain components. Your two-wheel-drive vehicle should not be towed with all four wheels on the ground. Your transmission has no provision for internal lubrication while being towed. To properly tow your vehicle, it should be placed on a platform trailer with all four wheels off the ground. Towing with all four wheels on the ground should be avoided.

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el-c we vehicle’s transfer

Shifting a four-w case into NEUTRAL can cause your vehicle to roll even if the transmission is in Park (P) for an automatic transmission, or if your vehicle is in gear, for a manual transmission. You or others could be injured. Make sure the parking brake is firmly set before you shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL.

If your vehicle has four-wheel-drive it cannot be dinghy towed. A four-wheel-drive vehicle must be towed by flatbed.

Dolly Towing

OD

Two-Wheel-Drive Vehicles Only

Notice: Towing your vehicle with all four wheels on the ground will damage drivetrain components. Your two-wheel-drive vehicle should not be towed with all four wheels on the ground. Your transmission has no provision for internal lubrication while being towed. To properly tow your vehicle, it should be placed on a platform trailer with all four wheels off the ground. Towing with all four wheels on the ground should be avoided.

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In rare cases when it’s unavoidable and your vehicle must be towed with all four wheels on the ground, the propeller shaft to axle yoke orientation should be marked and the propeller shaft removed following the applicable service manual removaVinstallation procedure. See Service Publications Ordering Information on page 7- 1 1. Dust or dirt can enter the back of the transmission through the opening created by removing the propeller shaft if proper protection is not provided. Also, check the transmission fluid level before driving the vehicle. Use the following steps to dolly tow your vehicle:

Put the front wheels on a dolly. Put the vehicle in PARK (P). Set the parking brake and then remove the key. Disconnect the propshaft as described above. Clamp the steering wheel in a straight-ahead position with a clamping device designed for towing. Release the parking brake.

Be sure to use the proper towing equipment designed for recreational vehicle towing. Follow the instructions for the towing equipment.

SLiting a four --he€- hive 1 -...-.e’s transfer case into NEUTRAL can cause your vehicle to roll even if the transmission is in Park (P) for an automatic transmission, or if your vehicle is in gear, for a manual transmission. You or others could be injured. Make sure the parking brake is firmly set before you shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL.

If your vehicle has four-wheel-drive it cannot be dolly towed. A four-wheel-drive vehicle must be towed by flatbed.

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Loading Your Vehicle

I u

, GVWR

I u u w

GAWR FRT GAWR RR

on your front and rear axles, you need to go to a weigh station and weigh your vehicle. Your dealer can help you with this. Be sure to spread out your load equally on both sides of the centerline. Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle, or the GAWR for either the front or rear axle. If you do have a heavy load, YOU should spread it out. Similar appearing vehicles may have different GVWRs and payloads. Please note your vehicle’s CertificationRire label or consult your dealer for additional details.

’ v RIM

COLD TIRE PRESSUR1

9 0 0 n o 0 0 bEE K R ’ S MANUAL FOR ADDITIONAL I N F O R M A T I O N n

label shows the

The CertificationRire label is found on the driver’s door edge, above the door latch. The size of your original tires and the inflation pressures needed to obtain the gross weight capacity of your vehicle. This is called the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel, cargo and trailer tongue weight, if pulling a trailer. The CertificationRire label also tells you the maximum weights for the front and rear axles, called Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). To find out the actual loads

Do nc- .oad your v--.icle any he-.. jer than the GVWR, or either the maximum front or rear GAWR. If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle.

Using heavier suspension components to get added durability might not change your weight ratings. Ask your dealer to help you load your vehicle the right way.

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Notice: Your warranty does not cover parts or components that fail because of overloading. If you put things inside your vehicle-like suitcases, tools, packages, or anything else-they will go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they’ll keep going.

Things you put inside and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or in a crash.

e c strike

Put things in the cargo area of your vehicle. Try to spread the weight evenly. Never stack heavier things, like suitcases, inside the vehicle so that some of them are above the tops of the seats. Don’t leave an unsecured child restraint in your vehicle. When you carry something inside the vehicle, secure it whenever you can. Don’t leave a seat folded down unless you need to.

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There’s also important loading information for off-road driving in this manual. Seeloading Your Vehicle for Off-Road Driving” under Off-Road Driving with Your Four- Wheel-Drive Vehicle on page 4-15. Payload The payload capacity is shown on the Certification/Tire label. This is the maximum load capacity that your vehicle can carry. Be sure to include the weight of the occupants as part of your load. If you added any accessories or equipment after your vehicle left the factory, remember to subtract the weight of these things from the payload. Your dealer can help you with this. Add-on Equipment When you carry removable items, you may need to put a limit on how many people you carry inside your vehicle. Be sure to weigh your vehicle before you buy and install the new equipment.

Notice: Your warranty does not cover parts or components that fail because of overloading.

I

IU don’t use the correct -uipment and

I1 drive properly, you can lose control when you pull a trailer. For example, if the trailer is too heavy, the brakes may not work well -- or even at all. You and your passengers could be seriously injured. Pull a trailer only if you have followed all the steps in this section. Ask your dealer for advice and information about towing a trailer with your vehicle.

Notice: Pulling a trailer improperly can damage your vehicle and result in costly repairs not covered by your warranty. To pull a trailer correctly, follow the advice in this part, and see your dealer for important information about towing a trailer with your vehicle. Additional rear axle maintenance is required for a vehicle used to tow a trailer. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index. To identify what the vehicle trailering capacity is for your vehicle, you should read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this section.

If yours was built with trailering options, as many are, it’s ready for heavier trailers. But trailering is different than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, durability and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly. That’s the reason for this part. In it are many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before you pull a trailer. If You Decide To Pull A Trailer If you do, here are some important points:

There are many different laws, including speed limit restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure your rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you’ll be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police. 0 Consider using a sway control if your trailer will weigh 3,500 Ibs. (1 589 kg) or less. You should always use a sway control if your trailer will weigh

, more than 3,500 Ibs. (1 589 kg). You can ask a

hitch dealer about sway controls. Don’t tow a trailer at all during the first 500 miles (800 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine, axle or other parts could be damaged.

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0

Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that you tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the heavier loads. If you have an automatic transmission, you can tow in DRIVE (D). You may want to shift the transmission to THIRD (3) or, if necessary, a lower gear selection if the transmission shifts too often (e.g., under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions). If you have a manual transmission and you are towing a trailer, it’s better not to use the highest gear. See Tow/Haul Mode Light on page 3-37.

Three important considerations have to do with weight:

the weight of the trailer, the weight of the trailer tongue and the weight on your vehicle’s tires.

Tow/Haul Mode Your vehicle may be equipped with a tow/haul feature. The tow/haul mode is a feature that assists when pulling a heavy trailer. The purpose of the tow/haul mode is:

Reduce the frequency of shifts when pulling a heavy trailer,

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provide the same shift feel when pulling a heavy trailer as when the vehicle is unloaded, and reduce the need to change throttle position when pulling a heavy trailer.

This feature is turned on or off by pressing a button on the floor console or the shift knob. When the feature is on, a light located on the instrument panel cluster will illuminate to indicate that the tow/haul mode has been selected. See Tow/Haul Mode Light on page 3-37. The tow/haul mode is automatically turned off each time the vehicle is started. The tow/haul mode is most effective when the vehicle and trailer combined weight is at least 75% of the Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR). The tow/haul mode for hauling a heavy trailer is most useful under the following conditions:

When driving through hilly terrain at speeds below 55 mph (88 km/h), when driving in low speed or stop and go traffic below 55 mph (88 km/h), and 0 when driving in parking lots.

Operating in the tow/haul mode when not pulling a heavy trailer will not cause damage to the vehicle, but you may experience reduced fuel economy and undesirable performance from the engine and transmission. The tow/haul mode should be used only when pulling a heavy trailer.

Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much your vehicle is used to puii a trailer are all important. And, it can also depend on any special equipment that you have on your vehicle. The following chart shows how much your trailer can weigh, based upon your vehicle model and options.

Vehicle Two-Wheel Drive, Two Door Auto.

I Two-Wheel Drive, Two Door Xtreme Blazer I Two-Wheel Drive, Two-Door Xtreme Blazer I Two-Wheel Drive, Two Door

Manual Trans.

Auto Trans.

Trans.

I Axle Ratio

3.42

3.42

3.42

3.42

Manual Trans.

Trailer Max.

I 5,700 Ibs. 2,000 Ibs. I 4,200 Ibs.

Wt.

(2 587 kg)

(90 kg)

(1 906 kq)

2,000 Ibs. (908 kg)

Four-wheel Drive, Two Door Auto. Trans.

I Four-wheel Drive, Two Door

Manual Trans.

ZR2, Auto Trans. ZR2, Manual Trans.

Four-wheel Drive, Four Door Auto. Trans.

1 ::% 1

3.42 5,400 Ibs. 3.73 5,400 Ibs. (2 451 kg) 3.42 3.73 3.73 4,200 Ibs. (1 905 kg)

(2 451 kg)

770 kg)

(2 132 kg)

3,900 Ibs. (1 4,700 Ibs.

5,000 Ibs. (2 768 kg) 768 kg) 5,000 Ibs. (2

6,500 Ibs. (2 951 kg)

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Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total or gross weight of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. And if you will tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load to the GVW because your vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-49 for more information about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.

Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming the driver and one passenger are in the tow vehicle and it has all the required trailering equipment. The weight of additional optional equipment, passengers and cargo in the tow vehicle must be subtracted from the maximum trailer weight. The weight of the trailer tongue also affects the maximum trailer weight. See “ Weight of the Trailer Tongue ” later in this section. * The Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR) is the total allowable weight of the completely loaded vehicle and trailer including any passengers, cargo, equipment and conversions. The GCWR for your vehicle should not be exceeded. You can ask your dealer for our trailering information or advice, or you can write us at the address listed in your Warranty and Owner Assistance Information Booklet. In Canada, write to: General Motors of Canada Limited Customer Communication Centre, 163-005 1908 Colonel Sam Drive Oshawa, Ontario L1 H 8P7

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A

If you’re using a weight-carrying or a weight-distributing hitch, the trailer tongue weight (A) should be 10 percent to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B). Do not exceed the maximum allowable tongue weight for your vehicle. After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they aren’t, you may be able to get them right simply by moving some items around in the trailer.

Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the upper limit for cold tires. You’ll find these numbers on the Certification label at the rear edge of the driver’s door or see ioading Your Vehicle on page 4-49. Then be sure you don’t go over the GVW limit for your vehicle, including the weight of the trailer tongue. Hitches It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch. Here are some rules to follow:

If you’ll be pulling a trailer that, when loaded, will weigh more than 3,500 Ibs. (1 589 kg), be sure to use a properly mounted, weight-distributing hitch and sway control of the proper size. This equipment is very important for proper vehicle loading and good handling when you’re driving. Will you have to make any holes in the body of your vehicle when you install a trailer hitch? If you do, then be sure to seal the holes later when you remove the hitch. If you don’t seal them, deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from your exhaust can get into your vehicle. See Engine Exhaust on page 2-39 and “Driving with a Trailer” later in this section. Dirt and water can, too.

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Safety Chains You should always attach chains between your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer to help prevent the tongue from contacting the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety chains and do not attach them to the bumper. Always leave just enough slack so you can turn with your rig. Never allow safety chains to drag on the ground. Trailer Brakes If your trailer weighs more than 1,000 Ibs. (450 kg) loaded, then it needs its own brakes - and they must be adequate. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install, adjust and maintain them properly.

Your trailer’s brake system can tap into the vehicle’s hydraulic brake system only if:

The trailer parts can withstand 3,000 psi (20 650 kPa) of pressure. The trailer’s brake system will use less than 0.02 cubic inch (0.3 cc) of fluid from your vehicle’s master cylinder. Otherwise, both braking systems won’t work well. You could even lose your brakes. If everything checks out this far, then make the brake fluid tap at the port on the master cylinder that sends fluid to the rear brakes. But don’t use copper tubing for this. If you do, it will bend and finally break off. Use steel brake tubing.

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--

Drivi-2 with a Trailer

rear-mos

w open anc * o u

If you have a pull a trailer with your vehicle, carbon monoxide (CO) could come into your vehicle. You can’t see or smell CO. It can cause unconsciousness or death. See “Engine Exhaust” in the Index. To maximize your safety when towing a trailer: * Have your exhaust system inspected for leaks, and make necessary repairs before starting on your trip. Keep the rear-most windows closed. If exhaust does come into your vehicle through a window in the rear or another opening, drive with your front, main heating or cooling system on and with the fan on any speed. This will bring fresh, outside air into your vehicle. Do not use the comfort control setting for maximum air because it only recirculates the air inside your vehicle. See “Comfort Controls” in the Index.

Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now a good deal ionger and not neariy as responsive as your vehicle is by itself. Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform (and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector, lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your electrical connection at the same time. During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working. Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns. Passing You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.

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Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you. Making Turns Notice: Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering. When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.

Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have extra wiring and a heavy-duty turn signal flasher (included in the optional trailering package). The arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other drivers you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop. When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working. Driving On Grades Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much that they would get hot and no longer work well.

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If you have an automatic transmission, you can tow in DRIVE (D). You may want to shift the transmission to THIRD (3) or, if necessary, a lower gear selection if the transmission shifts too often (e.g., under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions). Or, if you have a manual transmission and you are towing a trailer, it’s better not to use FIFTH (5) gear. Just drive in FOURTH (4) gear (or, as you need to, a lower gear). See Tow/Haul Mode Light on page 3-37. When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, consider the following: Engine coolant will boil at a lower temperature than at normal altitudes. If you turn your engine off immediately after towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs similar to engine overheating. To avoid this, let the engine run while parked (preferably on level ground) with the automatic transmission in PARK (P) (or the manual transmission out of gear and the parking brake applied) for a few minutes before turning the engine off. If you do get the overheat warning, see Engine Overheating on page 5-26.

Parking on Pills

You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged.

But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s how to do it: 1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into

PARK (P) yet, or into gear for a manual transmission. Then turn your wheels into the curb if facing downhill or into traffic if facing uphill.

2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer

wheels.

3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.

4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking brake, and then shift into PARK (P), or REVERSE (R) for a manual transmission.

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When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down

while you:

start your engine, shift into a gear, and release the parking brake.

2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks. 4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the

chocks.

5. If you have a

four-wheel-drive vehicle with an

automatic transfer case, be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear-not in NEUTRAL.

6 3elease the regular brakes.

It can be dangerous to get out of your vehicle is not fully in PARK (P) with the if the shift lever parking brake firmly set. Your vehicle can roll. If you have left the engine running, the vehicle can move suddenly. You or others could be injured. To be sure your vehicle won't move, even when you're on fairly level ground, use the steps that follow. Always put the shift lever fully in PARK (P) with the parking brake firmly set. If the transfer case on four-wheel drive vehicles is in NEUTRAL, your vehicle will be free to roll, is in even if your shift lever PARK (P). So, be sure the transfer case drive gear -- not in NEUTRAL. See "Four-Wheel Drive (Automatic Transfer C a s e ) in the Index.

is in a

4-60

Maintenance When Trailer Towing Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more on this. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transmission fluid (don’t overfill), engine oil, axle lubricant, belt, cooling system and brake system. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review these sections before you start your trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight. Trailer Wiring Harness The light-duty trailer wiring is a six-wire harness assembly. The optional heavy-duty trailer wiring is an eight-wire harness assembly. The harnesses are stored under the vehicle, along the passenger-side frame crossmember on two-door vehicles or on the driver’s side corner frame rear crossmember on four-door vehicles. The heavy-duty trailer wiring is fused in the engine compartment fuse block. See Fuses and Circuit Breakers on page 5-88. Both harnesses have no connector and should be wired by a qualified electrical technician. The technician can use the following color code chart when connecting the wiring harness to your trailer.

Dark Blue: Use for electric trailer brakes or auxiliary wiring (eight-wire harness only).

Red: Use for battery charging; it connects to the starter solenoid (eight-wire harness only). Light Green: Back-up lamps.

0 Brown: Taillamps and parking lamps. 0 Yellow: Driver’s side stoplamp and turn signal.

Dark Green: Passenger’s side stoplamp and turn signal. White: Ground wire. Light Blue: Auxiliary stoplamp.

Securely attach the harness to the trailer, then tape or strap it to your vehicle’s frame rail. Be sure you leave it loose enough so the wiring doesn’t bend or break, but not so loose that it drags on the ground. Store the harness in its original place. Wrap the harness together and tie it neatly so it won’t be damaged.

4-6 1

Section 5 Service and Appearance Care

Service ............................................................ 5.3 Doing Your Own Service Work ......................... 5-4 Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your

...............................

Vehicle ......................................................

5-4 Fuel ................................................................ 5-5 ..... 5-5 Gasoline Octane Gasoline Specifications .................................... 5-5 California Fuel ............................................... 5-6 Additives ....................................................... 5-6 Fuels in Foreign Countries ............................... 5-6 Filling Your Tank ............................................ 5-7 Filling a Portable Fuel Container ....................... 5-9

Checking Things Under

the Hood .................................................... 5-10 Hood Release .............................................. 5-10 Engine Compartment Overview ....................... 5-12 Engine Oil ................................................... 5-13 Engine Air CleanedFilter ................................ 5-17 Automatic Transmission Fluid ........................ 5-18 Manual Transmission Fluid ............................. 5-21 Hydraulic Clutch ........................................... 5-22 Engine Coolant ............................................. 5-23 Radiator Pressure Cap .................................. 5-26 Engine Overheating ....................................... 5-26 Cooling System ............................................ 5-28 Engine Fan Noise ......................................... 5-35

.......................

................... -5-48

Power Steering Fluid ..................................... 5.36 Windshield Washer Fluid ................................ 5-37 Brakes ........................................................ 5.38 Battery ........................................................ 5.41 Jump Starting ............................................... 5-42 Rear Axle ....................................................... 5.46 Four-wheel Drive ............................................ 5.47 Front Axle Bulb Replacement .......................................... 5.49 Halogen Bulbs .............................................. 5.49 Headlamps .................................................. 5.49 One-Piece Front Turn Signal Lamps ................ 5-51 Two-Piece Front Turn Signal Lamps ................ 5-52 Taillamps ..................................................... 5.53 Replacement Bulbs ....................................... 5.53 Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement .............. 5.54 Tires .............................................................. 5.57 Inflation .. Tire Pressure ................................ 5.58 Tire Inspection and Rotation ........................... 5.58 When It Is Time for New Tires ....................... 5-60 Buying New Tires ......................................... 5.60 Uniform Tire Quality Grading .......................... 5.61 Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance .................. 5-63 Wheel Replacement ..................................... -5-63 Tire Chains .................................................. 5.64

5-1

Section 5

Service and Appearance Care

If a Tire Goes Flat ........................................ 5-65 Changing a Flat Tire ..................................... 5-66 Compact Spare Tire ...................................... 5.78 Spare Tire ................................................... 5.78 Appearance Care ............................................ 5.79 Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle ................. 5-79 Care of Safety Belts ...................................... 5-81 Weatherstrips ............................................... 5-81 Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle .............. 5-82 Sheet Metal Damage ..................................... 5-84 Finish Damage ............................................ 5-84 Underbody Maintenance ................................ 5-85 Chemical Paint Spotting ................................. 5-85 GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials ......... -5-85

Vehicle Identification ...................................... 5.87 Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) ................. 5.87 Service Parts Identification Label ..................... 5.87 Electrical System ............................................ 5.88 Add-on Electrical Equipment .......................... 5.88 Headlamps .................................................. 5.88 Windshield Wiper Fuses ................................ 5.88 Power Windows and Other Power Options ....... 5-88 Fuses and Circuit Breakers ............................ 5.88 Capacities and Specifications .......................... 5.94 Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts .......... 5.96

5-2

Service Your dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you’ll go to your dealer for all your service needs. You’ll get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people.

We hope you’ll want to keep your GM vehicle all GM. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:

5-3

Doing Your Own Service Work

If you want to do some of your own service work, you’ll want to use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 7- 1 1. Your vehicle may have an air bag system. If it does, see Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-57 before attempting to do your own service work. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See Par? E: Maintenance Record on page 6-35.

5-4

You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it.

Be sure you have sufficient knowledge, experience, the proper replacement parts and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task. Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts and other fasteners. “English” and “metric” fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.

Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airflow around it. This may cause wind noise and affect windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle.

Fuel Use of the recommended fuel is an important part of the proper maintenance of your vehicle. Gasoline Octane Use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane of 87 or higher. If the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. Otherwise, you might damage your engine. A little pinging noise when you accelerate or drive uphill is considered normal. This does not indicate a problem exists or that a higher-octane fuel is necessary. If you are using 87 octane or higher-octane fuel and hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service.

Gasoline Specifications It is recommended that gasoline meet specifications which were developed by the American Automobile Manufacturers Association and endorsed by the Canadian Vehicle Manufacturers Association for better vehicle performance and engine protection. Gasoline meeting these specifications could provide improved driveability and emission control system performance compared to other gasoline.

In Canada, look for the “Auto Makers’ Choice” label on the pump.

5-5

California Fuel If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emission Standards (see the underhood emission control label), it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on (see Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-32 ) and your vehicle may fail a smog-check test. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs may not be covered by your warranty. Additives To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that will help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing your emission control system to work properly. You should not have to add anything to your fuel. Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in your area to contribute to clean air. General Motors recommends that you use these gasolines, particularly if they comply with the specifications described earlier.

5-6

Notice: Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Don’t use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage the plastic and rubber parts. That damage wouldn’t be covered under your warranty. Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT. General Motors does not recommend the use of such gasolines. Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for service. Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. To check the fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you’ll be driving.

Fillir Your Tank

Fuel vapor is highly flammable. It burns violently, and that can cause very bad injuries. Don’t smoke if you’re near fuel or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, flames and smoking materials away from fuel.

The fuel cap is located behind a hinged door on the driver’s side of your vehicle.

5-7

If you get fuel on yourself anc d e n something ignites it, you could be badly burned. Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any “hiss” noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.

Be careful not to spill fuel. Clean fuel from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle on page 5-82. When filling the tank do not overfill by squeezing in much more fuel after the pump shuts off.

While refueling, hang the cap by the tether from the hook on the fuel filler door. To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly to the left (counterclockwise).

5-8

fuel cap back on, turn it to the right

When you put the (clockwise) until you hear a clicking sound. Make sure you fully install the cap. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-32.

left off or improperly

Notice: If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage your fuel tank and emissions system. See “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index.

Filling a Portable Fuel ContPier

I a portable fuel co liner ile

_ _ __ .n lever your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others:

Dispense gasoline only into approved containers.

0 Do not fill a container while it is inside a

vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed or on any surface other than the ground.

0 Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the

inside of the fill opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the filling is complete.

* Don’t smoke while pumping gasoline.

5-9

Checking Things Under the Hood

Hood Release

To open the hood, do the following:

1. Pull the handle located

inside the vehicle on the lower left side of the instrument panel.

Things th burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.

2. Lift the hood.

5-1 0

3. Release the hood prop from its retainer and put the

hood prop into the slot in the hood.

Before closing the hood, be sure all the filler caps are on properly. Then lift the hood to relieve pressure on the hood prop. Remove the hood prop from the slot in the hood and return the prop to its retainer. Then, pull the hood down firmly to close. It will latch when dropped from about 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm) without pressing on the hood.

5-1 1

.. Y

A. Battery B. Coolant Recovery Tank C. Engine Oil Dipstick D. Engine Oil Fill E. Automatic Transmission Dipstick (If Equipped) F. Power Steering Reservoir G. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir H. Engine Air CleanedFilter I. Clutch Master Cylinder Reservoir J. Engine Compartment Fuse Block K. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir

Engine Oil Checking Engine Oil It’s a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.

The oil dipstick handle is a yellow ring located in the engine compartment toward the passenger side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-72 for more information on location.

Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you don’t, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.

5-1 3

A

The engine oil fill cap is located in the engine compartment toward the passenger side of the vehicle.

See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5- more information on the location of the engine oil fill cap. Be sure to fill it enough to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you're through.

12

for

When to Add Engine Oil If the oil is at or below the ADD line, then you'll need to add at least one quart of oil. But you must use the right kind. This part explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Specifications on page 5-94. Notice: Don't add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged.

5-1 4

What Kind of Engine Oil to Use Oils recommended for your vehicle can be identified by looking for the starburst s

iyt nbol.

This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API). Do not use any oil which does not carry this starburst symbol.

RECOMMENDED SAE VISCOSITY GRADE ENGINE

OILS

HOT WEATHER

-r

LOOK

FOR THIS SYMBOL

+lo[

I - -

- t38

+ 80

I - -

- +27

If you choose to perform the engine oil change service yourself, be sure the oil you use has the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. If you have your oil changed for you, be sure the oil put into your engine is American Petroleum Institute certified for gasoline engines. You should also use the proper viscosity oil for your vehicle, as shown in the viscosity chart.

+ 60

I - -

t 16

t40--

. + 4

t20 - -

- - 7

O - -

~ - 1 8 I

COLD

WEATHER

RECOMMENDED

DO NOT USE SAE 10W-40, SAE 20W-50 OR ANY OTHER VISCOSITY GRADE OIL NOT RECOMMENDED

5-1 5

As in the chart shown previously, SAE 5W-30 is the only viscosity grade recommended for your vehicle. You should look for and use only oils which have the API Starburst symbol and which are also identified as SAE 5W-30. If you cannot find such SAE 5W-30 oils, you can use an SAE 1OW-30 oil which has the API Starburst symbol, if it's going to be 0°F (-18°C) or above. Do not use other viscosity grade oils, such as SAE IOW-40 or SAE 20W-50 under any conditions.

Notice: Use only engine oil with the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty. GM Goodwrench@ oil meets all the requirements for your vehicle. If you are in an area of extreme cold, where the temperature falls below -20°F (-29"C), recommended that you use either an SAE 5W-30 synthetic oil or an SAE OW-30 oil. Both will provide easier cold starting and better protection for your engine at extremely low temperatures. Engine Oil Additives Don't add anything to your oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol are all you will need for good performance and engine protection. 5-1 6

it is

When to Change Engine Oil If any one of these is true for you, use the short tripkity maintenance schedule:

Most trips are less than 5 miles (8 km). This is particularly important when outside temperatures are below freezing. Most trips include extensive idling (such as frequent driving in stop-and-go traffic). You frequently tow a trailer or use a carrier on top of your vehicle. The vehicle is used for delivery service, police, taxi or other commercial application.

Driving under these conditions causes engine oil to break down sooner. If any one of these is true for your vehicle, then you need to change your oil and filter every 3,000 miles (5 000 km) or 3 months - whichever occurs first. If none of them is true, use the long trip/highway maintenance schedule. Change the oil and filter every 7,500 miles (12 500 km) or 12 months - whichever occurs first. Driving a vehicle with a fully warmed engine under highway conditions will cause engine oil to break down slower.

Remote Oil Filter (Four-wheel Drive)

The access door for the remote oil filter is in the steering linkage shield assembly located under the radiator support. Turn the screw to unlock or lock the door. If you open the door, make sure it is securely closed when you are finished.

What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Don’t let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the filter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into

streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help.

Engine Air Cleaner/Filter

The engine air cleaner/filter is located toward the front of the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on the location of the engine air cleanedfilter.

5-1 7

To check or replace the engine air cleaner/filter do the following: 1. Remove the fasteners that hold the cover on and

remove the cover.

2. Lift out the engine air cleaner/filter. 3. Insert a new air filter, if needed. See Normal

Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 5-96 to determine which filter to use.

4. Reinstall the engine air cleaner/filter cover. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to replace the engine air cleaner/filter. See Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services on page 6-4.

the e...Jne w . ~ . . the a,, cleaner/filter

Ob,.-ati.,, off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air, it stops flame if the engine backfires. If it isn’t there and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Don’t drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.

5-1 8

Nofices If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleanedfilter in place when you’re driving. Automatic Transmission Fluid When to Check and Change A good time to check your automatic transmission fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change both the fluid and filter every 15,000 miles (25 000 km) if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions:

In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or higher. In hilly or mountainous terrain. When doing frequent trailer towing. Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service.

If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, change the fluid and filter every 50,000 miles (83 000 km). See Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services on page 6-4.

How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.

Notice: Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine part or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Too little fluid could cause the transmission to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid. Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission fluid level if you have been driving: 0 When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C)

At high speed for quite a while. In heavy traffic - especially in hot weather. While pulling a trailer.

To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C).

Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (1 0°C). If it’s colder than 50°F (1 OOC), drive the vehicle in THIRD (3) until the engine temperature gage moves and then remains steady for 10 minutes. A cold fluid check can be made after the vehicle has been sitting for eight hours or more with the engine off, but this is used only as a reference. Let the engine run at idle for five minutes if outside temperatures are 50°F (1 0°C) or more. If it’s colder than 50°F (IOOC), you may have to idle the engine longer. Should the fluid level be low during this cold check, you must check the fluid hot before adding fluid. Checking the fluid hot will give you a more accurate reading of the fluid level. Checking the Fluid Level Prepare your vehicle as follows:

Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine running. With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever in PARK (P). With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P). Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more.

5-1 9

Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps: -1 The transmission dipstick

Q/0 onit-

handle has this symbol

The transmission dipstick is located near the center of the engine compartment. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-72 for more information on location. 1. Flip the handle up and then pull out the dipstick

and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.

2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and

then pull it back out again.

3. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the

dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.

How to Add Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transmission fluid to use. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-33. Add fluid only after checking the transmission fluid while it is hot. (A cold check is used only as a reference.) If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level up to the HOT area for a hot check. It doesn’t take much fluid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Don’t overfill.

5-20

111, because fluid with that label is

Notice: We recommend you use only fluid labeled DEXRON@’ made especially for your automatic transmission. Damage caused by fluid other than DEXRON@ 111 is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as described under “How to Check. When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.

Manual Transmission Fluid When to Check A good time to have it checked is when the engine oil is changed. However, the fluid in your manual transmission doesn’t require changing.

How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at your GM dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading. Notice: Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine part or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Too little fluid could cause the transmission to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid. Check the fluid level only when your engine is off, the vehicle is parked on a level place and the transmission is cool enough for you to rest your fingers on the transmission case.

5-2 1

Then, follow these steps:

How to Add Fluid Here’s how to add fluid. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of fluid to use. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-33. 1. Remove the filler plug. 2. Add fluid at the filler plug hole. Add only enough

fluid to bring the fluid level up to the bottom of the filler plug hole.

3. Install the filler plug. Be sure the plug is fully

seated.

Hydraulic Clutch The hvdraulic clutch linkage in your vehicle is self-adjusting. The clutch master

filled with hydraulic clutch fluid. It is not

you suspect there is a leak in the system. Adding fluid won’t correct a leak.

necessary to check regularly clutch

reservoir

cylinder

is

fluid unless

A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.

1. 2.

3.

Remove the filler plug. Check that the lubricant level is up to the bottom of the filler plug hole. If the fluid level is good, install the plug and be sure it is fully seated. If the fluid level is low, add more fluid as described in the next steps.

5-22

When to Check and What to Use

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often you should check the fluid level in your clutch master cylinder reservoir and for the proper fluid. See Part B: Owner Checks and Services on page 6-26 and Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-33.

How to Check and Add Fluid The proper fluid should be added if the level does not reach the bottom of the diaphragm when it’s in place in the reservoir. See the instructions on the reservoir cap. Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with DEX-COOL@ engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for 5 years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if you add only DEX-COOL@ extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating on page 5-26.

5-23

A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL@ coolant will:

Give freezing protection down to -34°F (-37°C). Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C). Protect against rust and corrosion. Help keep the proper engine temperature. Let the warning lights and gages work as they should.

Notice: When adding coolant, it is important that you use only DEX-COOL@ (silicate-free) coolant. If coolant other than DEX-COOL@ is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine coolant will require change sooner -- at 30,000 miles (50,000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Damage caused by the use of coolant other than DEX-COOL@ is not covered by your new vehicle warranty. What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL@ coolant which won’t damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you don’t need to add anything else.

5-24

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and the proper coolant.

Notice: If you use an improper coolant mixture, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system. Notices If you use the proper coolant, you don’t have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful.

Checking Coolant

'le coolant recovery tank. .

Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOL@ coolant mixture a

The coolant recovery tank is located in the engine compartment near the passenger side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at ADD, or a little higher. When your engine is warm, the level should be up to FULL HOT, or a little higher.

Turning the radiator pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. With the coolant recovery tank, you will almost never have to add coolant at the radiator. Never turn the radiator pressure cap -- even a little -- when the engine and radiator are hot.

5-25

Add coolant mixture at the recovery tank, but be careful not to spill it.

Radiator Pressure Cap

)u can be burnel-. .F you sp ... coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.

Occasionally check the coolant level in the radiator. For information on how to add coolant to the radiator, see Cooling System on page 5-28.

Notice: Your radiator pressure cap is a 15 psi (105 kPa) pressure-type cap and must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss and possible engine damage from overheating. Be sure the arrows on the cap line up with the overflow tube on the radiator filler neck. Engine Overheating You will find a coolant temperature gage on your vehicle’s instrument panel. See Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 3-3 1.

5-26

If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine

Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until

it cools down.

CAUTIQN: (Continued)

Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool.

Notice: If your engine catches fire because you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty. If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine If you get an engine overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: 0 Climb a long hill on a hot day. Stop after high-speed driving. Idle for long periods in traffic.

0 Tow a trailer. See “Driving on Grades” under

To wing a Trailer on page 4-5 1.

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If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so:

1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in NEUTRAL while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL and let the engine idle.

2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan

speed and open the window as necessary.

If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning doesn't come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there's still no sign of steam, idle the engine for three minutes while you're parked. Push down the accelerator until the engine speed is about twice as fast as normal idle speed for at least three minutes while you're parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.

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Cooling System

When you decide it's safe to lift the hood, here's what you'll see:

A. Coolant Recovery Tank B. Radiator Pressure Cap C. Engine Cooling Fan If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, don't do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface.

When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be at least up to the ADD mark. If it isn’t, you may have a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system.

Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Don’t touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Don’t run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.

If there seems to be no leak, start the engine again. The engine cooling fan speed should increase when idle speed is doubled by pushing the accelerator pedal down. If it doesn’t, your vehicle needs service. Turn off the engine. Notice: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant isn’t covered by your warranty.

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Notice: When adding coolant, it is important that you use only DEX-COOL@ (silicate-free) coolant. If coolant other than DEX-COOL@ is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine coolant will require change sooner - at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Damage caused by the use of coolant other than DEX-COOL@ is not covered by your new vehicle warranty. How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Recovery Tank If you haven’t found a problem yet, but the coolant level isn’t at the ADD mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL@ engine coolant at the coolant recovery tank. See Engine Coolant on page 5-23 for more information.

Adding only plam water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX COOL@’ coolant.

Notice: In cold weather, water can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture.

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I

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot

I enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.

When the coolant in the coolant recovery tank is at the ADD mark, start your vehicle. If the overheat warning continues, there’s one more thing you can try. You can add the proper mixture directly to the radiator, but be sure the cooling system is cool before you do it.

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How to Add Coolant to the Radiator

1. You can remove the radiator pressure cap when

the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise until it first stops. (Don’t press down while turning the pressure cap.) If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.

Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the radiator pressure cap -- even a little -- they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and radiator pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.

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2. Then keep turning the pressure cap, but now push

down as you turn it. Remove the pressure cap.

3. Fill the radiator with the proper DEX-COOL coolant mixture, up to the base of the filler neck. See Engine Coolant on page 5-23 for more information about the proper coolant mixture.

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4. Then fill the coolant recovery tank to ADD mark. 5. Put the cap back on the coolant recovery tank, but

leave the radiator pressure cap off.

6. Start the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fan.

7. By this time, the coolant level inside the radiator filler neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper DEX-COOL@ coolant mixture through the filler neck until the level reaches the base of the filler neck.

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8. Then replace the pressure cap. At any time during

this procedure if coolant begins to flow out of the filler neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure the arrow on the pressure cap lines up like this.

Engine Fan Noise This vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide more air to cool the engine. In most everyday driving conditions, the clutch is not engaged. This improves fuel economy and reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing and/or high outside temperatures, the fan speed increases when the clutch engages. So you may hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and should not be mistaken as the transmission slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system functioning properly. The fan will slow down when additional cooling is not required and the clutch disengages. You may also hear this fan noise when you start the engine. It will go away as the fan clutch disengages.

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Power Steering Fluid The power steering reservoir is located near the front of the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle.

When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-72 for reservoir location. How to Check Power Steering Fluid Turn the key off, let the engine compartment cool down, wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean, then unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. Then remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on the dipstick. The level should be between the ADD and FULL marks. If necessary, add only enough fluid to bring the level up to the proper range.