StabiliTrak® will improve your ability to accelerate when driving on a slippery road. But you can turn StabiliTrak® off if you ever need to. See StabiliTrak® System on page 4-9 and If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow on page 4-44. Even with StabiliTrak®, you will want to slow down and adjust your driving to the road conditions. Under certain conditions, you may want to turn StabiliTrak® off, such as when driving through deep snow and loose gravel, to help maintain vehicle motion at lower speeds.
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What is the worst time for this? Wet ice. Very cold snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice can be even more trouble because it may offer the least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it is about freezing, 32°F (0°C), and freezing rain begins to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews can get there.
Here are some things to do to summon help and keep yourself and your passengers safe: Turn on your hazard flashers. Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police that you have been stopped by the snow.
(cid:127) Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around you. If
you do not have blankets or extra clothing, make body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags, floor mats — anything you can wrap around yourself or tuck under your clothing to keep warm.
Your Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) improves your vehicle’s stability when you make a hard stop on a slippery road. Even though you have ABS, you will want to begin stopping sooner than you would on dry pavement. See Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) on page 4-7. (cid:127) Allow greater following distance on any slippery road. (cid:127) Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine until
you hit a spot that is covered with ice. On an otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in shaded areas where the sun cannot reach, such as around clumps of trees, behind buildings, or under bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass may remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you are on it. Try not to brake while you are actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers.
If You Are Caught in a Blizzard If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a serious situation. You should probably stay with your vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near help and you can hike through the snow.
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You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.
(cid:127) (cid:127) {CAUTION:
Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you. You cannot see it or smell it, so you might not know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking your exhaust pipe. And check around again from time to time to be sure snow does not collect there. Open a window just a little on the side of the vehicle that is away from the wind. This will help keep CO out.
Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps the battery charged. You will need a well-charged battery to restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with your headlamps. Let the heater run for a while. Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again and repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or so until help comes.
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If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you will need to spin the wheels, but you do not want to spin your wheels too fast. The method known as rocking can help you get out when you are stuck, but you must use caution.
{CAUTION:
If you let your tires spin at high speed, they can explode, and you or others could be injured. And, the transmission or other parts of the vehicle can overheat. That could cause an engine compartment fire or other damage. When you are stuck, spin the wheels as little as possible. Do not spin the wheels above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.
Notice: Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting your transmission back and forth, you can destroy your transmission. For more information about using tire chains on your vehicle, see Tire Chains on page 5-81.
Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will clear the area around your front wheels. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, shift into Four-Wheel High or Four-Wheel Low. Turn the StabiliTrak® System off. See StabiliTrak® System on page 4-9. Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear. By slowly spinning your wheels in the forward and reverse directions, you will cause a rocking motion that may free your vehicle. If that does not get you out after a few tries, you may need to be towed out. Or, you can use your recovery hooks if your vehicle has them. If you do need to be towed out, see Towing Your Vehicle on page 4-57.
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Recovery Hooks
{CAUTION:
These hooks, when used, are under a lot of force. Always pull the vehicle straight out. Never pull on the hooks at a sideways angle. The hooks could break off and you or others could be injured from the chain or cable snapping back.
Notice: Never use recovery hooks to tow the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged and it would not be covered by warranty. Your vehicle has recovery hooks at the front of the vehicle. You may need to use them if you are stuck off-road and need to be pulled to some place where you can continue driving.
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Loading Your Vehicle It is very important to know how much weight your vehicle can carry. This weight is called the vehicle capacity weight and includes the weight of all occupants, cargo, and all nonfactory-installed options. Two labels on your vehicle show how much weight it was designed to carry, the Tire and Loading Information label and the Certification/Tire label.
{CAUTION:
Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle.
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Tire and Loading Information Label
Label Example
A vehicle specific Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the center pillar (B-pillar). With the driver’s door open, you will find the label attached below the door lock post (striker). The tire and loading information label shows the number of occupant seating positions (A), and the maximum vehicle capacity weight (B) in kilograms and pounds.
The Tire and Loading Information label also shows the
size of the original equipment tires (C) and the
recommended cold tire inflation pressures (D). For more
information on tires and inflation see Tires on page 5-62
and Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-68.
There is also important loading information on the
vehicle Certification/Tire label. It tells you the Gross
Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) and the Gross
Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for the front and rear axles.
See “Certification/Tire Label” later in this section.
Steps for Determining Correct Load Limit
1. Locate the statement “The combined weight of
occupants and cargo should never exceed XXX kg or XXX lbs” on your vehicle’s placard.
2. Determine the combined weight of the driver and
passengers that will be riding in your vehicle.
3. Subtract the combined weight of the driver and
passengers from XXX kg or XXX lbs.
4. The resulting figure equals the available amount of
cargo and luggage load capacity. For example, if the “XXX” amount equals 1400 lbs and there will be five 150 lb passengers in your vehicle, the amount of available cargo and luggage load capacity is 650 lbs (1400 − 750 (5 x 150) = 650 lbs).
5. Determine the combined weight of luggage and cargo being loaded on the vehicle. That weight may not safely exceed the available cargo and luggage load capacity calculated in Step 4.
6. If your vehicle will be towing a trailer, the load from
your trailer will be transferred to your vehicle. Consult this manual to determine how this reduces the available cargo and luggage load capacity of your vehicle. See Towing a Trailer on page 4-62 for important information on towing a trailer, towing safety rules and trailering tips.
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Example 1
Example 2
Item
Description
Total
Item
Description
Total
Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 1 = Subtract Occupant Weight 150 lbs (68 kg) × 2 = Available Occupant and Cargo Weight =
1,000 lbs (453 kg)
300 lbs (136 kg)
700 lbs (317 kg)
Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 2 = Subtract Occupant Weight 150 lbs (68 kg) × 5 = Available Cargo Weight =
1,000 lbs (453 kg)
750 lbs (136 kg)
250 lbs (113 kg)
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Certification/Tire Label
Example 3
Item
Description
Total
Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 3 = Subtract Occupant Weight 200 lbs (91 kg) × 5 = Available Cargo Weight =
1,000 lbs (453 kg)
1,000 lbs (453 kg)
0 lbs (0 kg)
Refer to your vehicle’s tire and loading information label for specific information about your vehicle’s capacity weight and seating positions. The combined weight of the driver, passengers and cargo should never exceed your vehicle’s capacity weight.
A vehicle specific Certification/Tire label is attached to the rear edge of the driver’s door. The label shows the size of your vehicle’s original tires and the inflation pressures needed to obtain the gross weight capacity of your vehicle. This is called Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel and cargo.
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The Certification/Tire label also tells you the maximum weights for the front and rear axles, called Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). To find out the actual loads on your front and rear axles, you need to go to a weigh station and weigh your vehicle. Your dealer can help you with this. Be sure to spread out your load equally on both sides of the centerline. Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle, or the GAWR for either the front or rear axle. The Certification/Tire label also contains information about your Front Axle Reserve Capacity. See “What is front axle reserve capacity weight and how do I calculate it?” under Adding a Snow Plow or Similar Equipment on page 4-52. And, if you do have a heavy load, you should spread it out.
{CAUTION:
In the case of a sudden stop or collision, things carried in the bed of your truck could shift forward and come into the passenger area, injuring you and others. If you put things in the bed of your truck, you should make sure they are properly secured.
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{CAUTION:
Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle.
Your warranty does not cover parts or components that fail because of overloading. The label will help you decide how much cargo and installed equipment your truck can carry. Using heavier suspension components to get added durability might not change your weight ratings. Ask your dealer to help you load your vehicle the right way. If you put things inside your vehicle — like suitcases, tools, packages, or anything else — they will go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they will keep going.
{CAUTION:
Things you put inside your vehicle can strike and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or in a crash.
(cid:127) Put things in the cargo area of your
vehicle. Try to spread the weight evenly.
(cid:127) Never stack heavier things, like suitcases,
inside the vehicle so that some of them are above the tops of the seats.
(cid:127) Do not leave an unsecured child restraint
in your vehicle.
(cid:127) When you carry something inside the vehicle, secure it whenever you can.
(cid:127) Do not leave a seat folded down unless
you need to.
There is also important loading information for off-road driving in this manual. See “Loading Your Vehicle for Off-Road Driving” under Off-Road Driving on page 4-17.
Add-On Equipment When you carry removable items, you may need to put a limit on how many people you can carry inside your vehicle. Be sure to weigh your vehicle before you buy and install the new equipment. Notice: Overloading your vehicle may cause damage. Repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not overload your vehicle. Remember not to exceed the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) of the front or rear axle. See Adding a Snow Plow or Similar Equipment on page 4-52 for additional information. The Cargo Weight Rating (CWR) is the maximum weight of the load your vehicle can carry. It does not include the weight of the people inside. But you can figure about 150 lbs (68 kg) for each seat. The total cargo load must not be more than your vehicle’s CWR.
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Q: How heavy can a snow plow safely be? A: The plow your vehicle can carry depends on many
things, such as: The options your vehicle came with, and the weight of those options. The weight and number of passengers you intend to carry. The weight of items you have added to your vehicle, like a tool box. The total weight of any additional cargo you intend to carry.
Say, for example, you have a 700 lb (318 kg) snow plow. The total weight of all occupants and cargo inside the cab should not exceed 300 lb (135 kg). This means that you may only be able to carry one passenger. But, even this may be too much if you have got other equipment already adding to the weight of your vehicle.
If your vehicle does not have the snow
Adding a Snow Plow or Similar Equipment Before installing a snow plow on your vehicle, here are some things you will need to know: Notice: plow prep package, adding a plow can damage your vehicle, and the repairs would not be covered by warranty. Unless your vehicle was built to carry a snow plow, do not add one to your vehicle. If your vehicle has the snow plow option called RPO VYU (snow plow prep package), then the payload your vehicle can carry will be reduced when a snow plow is installed. Your vehicle can be damaged if either the front or rear axle ratings or the gross vehicle weight (GVW) are exceeded.
Q: How do I know if my vehicle can handle a
snow plow?
A: Some vehicles are built with a special package, called RPO VYU (snow plow prep package). If your vehicle has this option, you can add a plow to it, provided certain weights, such as the weights on the vehicle’s axles and the GVW, are not exceeded.
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(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) Here are some guidelines for safely carrying a snow plow on your vehicle: (cid:127) Make sure the weight on the front and rear axles
does not exceed the axle rating for each. For the front axle, if more cargo or passengers must be carried, appropriate counter ballast must be installed rear of the rear axle. Counter ballast must be properly secured so it will not move during driving. Follow the snow plow manufacturer’s recommendations regarding rear ballast. Rear ballast may be required to ensure a proper front and rear weight distribution ratio, even though the actual weight at the front axle may be less than the front axle rating. The snow plow manufacturer or installer can assist you in determining the amount of rear ballast required, to help make sure your snowplow/vehicle combination does not exceed the GVW rating, the front and rear axle ratings, and the front and rear weight distribution ratio. The total vehicle must not exceed the GVW rating.
Q: What is front axle reserve capacity, and how do
I calculate it?
A: Front axle reserve capacity is the difference
between your front gross axle weight rating (GAWR) and the front axle weight of your vehicle with full fuel and passengers. Basically, it is the amount of weight you can add to your front axle before reaching your front GAWR.
The front axle reserve capacity for your vehicle can be found in the lower right corner of the Certification/Tire label, as shown.
United States
Canada
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(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) In order to calculate the amount of weight any front accessory, such as a snow plow, is adding to the front axle, use the following formula:
(W x (A + W.B.)) /W.B.= Weight the accessory is adding to the front axle. Where: W = Weight of added accessory A = Distance that the accessory is in front of the front axle. W.B. = Vehicle Wheelbase
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For example, adding a 700 lb (318 kg) snow plow actually adds more than 700 lbs (318 kg) to the front axle. Using the formula, if the snow plow is 4 ft (122 cm) in front of the front axle and the wheel base is 10 ft (305 cm), then: W = 700 lb (318 kg) A = 4 ft (122 cm) W.B. = 10 ft (305 cm) (W x (A + W.B.))/W.B. = (700 x (4 + 10))/ 10 = 980 lbs (445 kg) So, if your vehicle’s front axle reserve capacity is more than 980 lbs (445 kg), you could add the snow plow without exceeding the front GAWR.
Q: What if I want to add heavier equipment to my
vehicle?
A: You can add heavier equipment on the front of the vehicle if you compensate for it by carrying fewer passengers, less cargo, or by positioning cargo towards the rear. This has the effect of reducing the load on the front. However, the front GAWR, rear GAWR and the gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR) must never be exceeded.
{CAUTION:
On some vehicles equipped with certain front mounted equipment, such as a snow plow, it may be possible to load the front axle to the front GAWR but not have enough weight on the rear axle to have proper braking performance. If your brakes can not work properly, you could have a crash. To help your brakes work properly when a snow plow is installed, always follow the snow plow manufacturer or installer’s recommendation for rear ballast to ensure a proper front and rear weight distribution ratio, even though the actual front weight may be less than the front GAWR, and the total vehicle weight is less than the GVWR. Maintaining a proper front and rear weight distribution ratio is necessary to provide proper braking performance.
Q: What is total vehicle reserve capacity? A: This is the difference between your GVWR and the weight of your vehicle with full fuel and passengers. It is the amount of weight you can add to your vehicle before reaching your GVWR. Keep in mind that reserve capacity numbers are intended as a guide when selecting the amount of equipment or cargo your vehicle can carry. If you are unsure of your vehicle’s front, rear, or total weight, go to a weigh station and weigh your vehicle. Your dealer can also help you with this. The total vehicle reserve capacity for your vehicle can be found in the lower right corner of the Certification/Tire label as shown previously.
See your dealer for additional advice and information about using a snow plow on your vehicle. Also, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-46.
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Emergency Roof Lamp Provisions Vehicles with the RPO VYU snow plow prep package also have an emergency roof lamp provision package, RPO TRW. Wiring for the emergency roof lamp is provided in the B-pillar as shown. See Auxiliary Roof Mounted Lamp on page 3-17 for switch location.
Truck-Camper Loading Information Your vehicle was neither designed nor intended to carry a slide-in type camper. Notice: Adding a slide-in camper or similar equipment to your vehicle can damage it, and the repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not install a slide-in camper or similar equipment on your vehicle.
A. Body Side Inner Panel B. Emergency Roof Lamp Harness
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Towing
Towing Your Vehicle Consult your dealer or a professional towing service if you need to have your disabled vehicle towed. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-6. If you want to tow your vehicle behind another vehicle for recreational purposes (such as behind a motorhome), see “Recreational Vehicle Towing” following.
Recreational Vehicle Towing Recreational vehicle towing means towing your vehicle behind another vehicle – such as behind a motorhome. The two most common types of recreational vehicle towing are known as “dinghy towing” (towing your vehicle with all four wheels on the ground) and “dolly towing” (towing your vehicle with two wheels on the ground and two wheels up on a device known as a “dolly”).
With the proper preparation and equipment, many vehicles can be towed in these ways. See “Dinghy Towing” and “Dolly Towing,” following. Here are some important things to consider before you do recreational vehicle towing: (cid:127) What’s the towing capacity of the towing vehicle? Be sure you read the tow vehicle manufacturer’s recommendations.
(cid:127) How far will you tow? Some vehicles have
restrictions on how far and how long they can tow.
(cid:127) Do you have the proper towing equipment? See your dealer or trailering professional for additional advice and equipment recommendations. Is your vehicle ready to be towed? Just as you would prepare your vehicle for a long trip, you’ll want to make sure your vehicle is prepared to be towed. See Before Leaving on a Long Trip on page 4-36.
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(cid:127) Four-Wheel-Drive Vehicles
If you tow your vehicle with all four wheels
Dinghy Towing Two-Wheel-Drive Vehicles Notice: on the ground, the drivetrain components could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not tow your vehicle with all four wheels on the ground. Two-wheel drive vehicles should not be towed with all four wheels on the ground. Two-wheel-drive transmissions have no provisions for internal lubrication while being towed.
Use the following procedure to tow your vehicle: 1. Shift the transmission to PARK (P). 2. Turn the engine off, but leave the ignition on. 3. Firmly set the parking brake. 4. Securely attach the vehicle being towed to the tow
vehicle.
4-58
{CAUTION:
Shifting the transfer case to NEUTRAL can cause your vehicle to roll even if the transmission is in PARK (P). You or someone else could be seriously injured. Be sure to set the parking brake before placing the transfer case in NEUTRAL. See Parking Brake on page 2-38.
5. Shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL (N). See Four-Wheel Drive on page 2-34 for the proper procedure to select the neutral position for your vehicle.
6. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle
being towed is firmly attached to the towing vehicle.
7. Turn the ignition off to lock the steering column.
If you tow a two-wheel-drive vehicle with
Dolly Towing Front Towing (Front Wheels Off the Ground) Two-Wheel-Drive Vehicles Notice: the rear wheels on the ground, the transmission could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Never tow your vehicle with the rear wheels on the ground. Two-wheel drive vehicles should not be towed with the rear wheels on the ground. Two-wheel-drive transmissions have no provisions for internal lubrication while being towed. To dolly tow a two-wheel-drive vehicle, you must tow the vehicle with the rear wheels on the dolly. See “Rear Towing (Rear Wheels Off the Ground)” later in this section for more information.
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Four-Wheel-Drive Vehicles Use the following procedure to tow your vehicle: 1. Drive the vehicle up onto the tow dolly. 2. Firmly set the parking brake. 3. Shift the transmission to PARK (P). 4. Turn the engine off, but leave the ignition on. 5. Securely attach the vehicle being towed to the
tow dolly.
{CAUTION:
Shifting the transfer case to NEUTRAL can cause your vehicle to roll even if the transmission is in PARK (P). You or someone else could be seriously injured. Be sure to set the parking brake before placing the transfer case in NEUTRAL. See Parking Brake on page 2-38.
6. Shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL (N). See Four-Wheel Drive on page 2-34 for the proper procedure to select the neutral position for your vehicle.
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7. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle
being towed is firmly attached to the towing vehicle.
8. Turn the ignition off to lock the steering column. If the tow vehicle will not be started or driven for six weeks or more, remove the battery cable from the negative terminal (post) of the battery to prevent your battery from draining while towing.
Rear Towing (Rear Wheels Off the Ground) Two-Wheel-Drive Vehicles Use the following procedure to tow your vehicle from the rear: 1. Drive the vehicle onto the dolly. 2. Firmly set the parking brake. See Parking Brake on
page 2-38 for more information.
3. Put the transmission in PARK (P). 4. Follow the dolly manufacturer’s instructions to attach and secure the vehicle being towed to the dolly and then the loaded dolly to the tow vehicle. Make sure the wheels are straight before proceeding to the next steps.
5. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle being towed is firmly attached to the tow vehicle. 6. Turn the ignition off to lock the steering column. If the tow vehicle will not be started or driven for six weeks or more, remove the battery cable from the negative terminal (post) of the battery to prevent your battery from draining while towing.
Four-Wheel-Drive Vehicles Use the following procedure to tow your vehicle from the rear: 1. Drive the vehicle onto the dolly. 2. Firmly set the parking brake. 3. Put the transmission in PARK (P). 4. Turn the engine off, but leave the ignition on. 5. Follow the dolly manufacturer’s instructions to attach and secure the vehicle being towed to the dolly and then the loaded dolly to the tow vehicle. Make sure the wheels are straight before proceeding to the next steps.
{CAUTION:
Shifting the transfer case to NEUTRAL can cause your vehicle to roll even if the transmission is in PARK (P). You or someone else could be seriously injured. Be sure to set the parking brake before placing the transfer case in NEUTRAL. See Parking Brake on page 2-38.
6. Shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL (N). See Four-Wheel Drive on page 2-34 for the proper procedure to select the neutral position for your vehicle.
7. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle being towed is firmly attached to the tow vehicle. 8. Turn the ignition off to lock the steering column. If the tow vehicle will not be started or driven for six weeks or more, remove the battery cable from the negative terminal (post) of the battery to prevent your battery from draining while towing.
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Level Control The self-adjusting rear suspension may come as part of the premium smooth ride suspension package. This type of level control will provide a leveled riding position as well as improved handling under a variety of passenger and loading conditions. A hydraulic pump inside each rear shock absorber raises the rear of the vehicle to the proper height, based on inputs from the road surface, while the vehicle is being driven. It take approximately 2 miles (3.2 km) of driving for the leveling to complete, depending on the road surface conditions. If the loaded vehicle is not moved for approximately 12 hours, the leveling system may bleed down to a lower height. This can be especially apparent if a trailer is left attached to a parked vehicle for long periods of time. The vehicle must be driven to re-level the vehicle. If a self-equalizing hitch is being used, the vehicle should be driven approximately 2 miles (3.2 km) with the trailer prior to adjusting (leveling) the hitch.
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Towing a Trailer Do not tow a trailer during break-in. See New Vehicle Break-In on page 2-26 for more information.
{CAUTION:
If you do not use the correct equipment and drive properly, you can lose control when you pull a trailer. For example, if the trailer is too heavy, the brakes may not work well — or even at all. You and your passengers could be seriously injured. Pull a trailer only if you have followed all the steps in this section. Ask your dealer for advice and information about towing a trailer with your vehicle.
Notice: Pulling a trailer improperly can damage your vehicle and result in costly repairs not covered by your warranty. To pull a trailer correctly, follow the advice in this part, and see your dealer for important information about towing a trailer with your vehicle. To identify the trailering capacity of your vehicle, you should read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this section.
Trailering is different than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, acceleration, braking, durability and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly. That’s the reason for this part. In it are many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before you pull a trailer. If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer If you do, here are some important points:
There are many different laws, including speed limit restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure your rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you’ll be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police.
(cid:127) Consider using a sway control. See “Hitches” later
in this section.
(cid:127) Don’t tow a trailer at all during the first 500 miles (800 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine, axle or other parts could be damaged. Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that you tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the heavier loads.
(cid:127) You can tow in DRIVE (D). You may want to shift the transmission to THIRD (3) or, if necessary, a lower gear selection if the transmission shifts too often (e.g., under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions). See “Tow/Haul Mode” later in this section.
Three important considerations have to do with weight:
the weight of the trailer, the weight of the trailer tongue and the weight on your vehicle’s tires.
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(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) Tow/Haul Mode Tow/haul is designed to assist while your vehicle is pulling a large or heavy load or trailer. Tow/haul is most useful while pulling such a load in rolling terrain, in stop-and-go traffic, or when you need improved low-speed control, such as when parking. The purpose of the tow/haul mode is to do the following: (cid:127) Reduce the frequency and improve the predictability of transmission shifts when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load.
(cid:127) Provide the same solid shift feel when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load as when the vehicle is unloaded. Improve control of vehicle speed while requiring less throttle pedal activity when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load.
Tow/haul is designed to be most effective when the vehicle and trailer combined weight is at least 75 percent of the vehicle’s Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR). See “Weight of the Trailer” later in this section. Press the button at the end of the shift lever to enable/disable the tow/haul mode.
A light on the instrument panel will illuminate to indicate that tow/haul mode has been selected.
The vehicle will automatically turn off tow/haul every time it is started. Driving with tow/haul activated without a heavy load or with no trailer will cause reduced fuel economy and unpleasant engine and transmission driving characteristics, but will not cause damage. Operating the vehicle in tow/haul when lightly loaded or with no trailer at all will not cause damage. However, there is no benefit to the selection of tow/haul when the vehicle is unloaded. Such a selection when unloaded may result in unpleasant engine and transmission driving characteristics and reduced fuel economy. Tow/haul is recommended only when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load.
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(cid:127) Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. It can also depend on any special equipment that you have on your vehicle, and the amount of tongue weight the vehicle can carry. See “Weight of the Trailer Tongue” later in this section for more information. Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming only the driver is in the tow vehicle and it has all the required trailering equipment. The weight of additional optional equipment, passengers and cargo in the tow vehicle must be subtracted from the maximum trailer weight.
Above the 5,000 lb (2 268 kg) trailer rating, the handling/ trailering suspension is required on two-wheel-drive 1500 series models and the handling/trailering or off-road suspension is required on four-wheel-drive 1500 series models. Use one of the following charts to determine how much your vehicle can weigh, based upon your vehicle model and options. Notice: Using a fifth-wheel or goose-neck hitch device on your vehicle could damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not use a fifth-wheel or goose-neck hitch device on your vehicle.
Vehicle
Axle Ratio
Maximum Trailer Weight
**GCWR
C-1500 (2WD)
5300 V8
K-1500 (4WD)
5300 V8
3.42
4.10
3.42
4.10
7,300 lbs (3 311 kg) 8,200 lbs (3 719 kg) 7,100 lbs (3 220 kg) 7,900 lbs (3 583 kg)
13,000 lbs (5 897 kg) 14,000 lbs (6 350 kg) 13,000 lbs (5 897 kg) 14,000 lbs (6 350 kg)
**The Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR) is the total allowable weight of the completely loaded vehicle and trailer including any passengers, cargo, equipment and conversions. The GCWR for your vehicle should not be exceeded.
4-65
Vehicle
Axle Ratio
Maximum Trailer Weight
**GCWR
K-2500 (4WD)
8100 V8
3.73
4.10
10,200 lbs (4 627 kg) 12,000 lbs (5 443 kg)
17,000 lbs (7 711 kg) 19,000 lbs (8 618 kg)
**The Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR) is the total allowable weight of the completely loaded vehicle and trailer including any passengers, cargo, equipment and conversions. The GCWR for your vehicle should not be exceeded.
You can ask your dealer for our trailering information or advice, or you can write us at the address listed in your Warranty and Owner Assistance Information Booklet. In Canada, write to:
And if you will tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load to the GVW because your vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-46 for more information about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.
General Motors of Canada Limited
Customer Communication Centre, 163-005
1908 Colonel Sam Drive
Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7
Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total or gross weight of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. If you have a lot of options, equipment, passengers or cargo in your vehicle, it will reduce the tongue weight your vehicle can carry, which will also reduce the trailer weight your vehicle can tow.
4-66
The trailer tongue weight (A) should be 10 percent to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B), up to a maximum of 600 lbs (272 kg) with a weight carrying hitch.
The trailer tongue weight (A) should be 10 percent to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B), up to a maximum of 1,000 lbs (454 kg) for the 1500 series and up to a maximum of 1,500 lbs (680 kg) for the 2500 series with a weight distributing hitch. Do not exceed the maximum allowable tongue weight for your vehicle. Choose the shortest hitch extension that will position the hitch ball closest to the vehicle. This will help reduce the effect of trailer tongue weight on the rear axle. After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they aren’t, you may be able to get them right simply by moving some items around in the trailer. Trailering may be limited by the vehicle’s ability to carry tongue weight. Tongue weight cannot cause the vehicle to exceed the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) or the RGAWR (Rear Gross Axle Weight Rating). The effect of additional weight may reduce your trailering capacity more than the total of the additional weight.
Consider the following example: A vehicle model base weight is 5,500 lbs (2 495 kg); 2,800 lbs (1 270 kg) at the front axle and 2,700 lbs (1 225 kg) at the rear axle. It has a GVWR of 7,200 lbs (3 266 kg), a RGAWR of 4,000 lbs (1 814 kg) and a GCWR (Gross Combination Weight Rating) of 14,000 lbs (6 350 kg). The trailer rating should be:
You can expect tongue weight to be at least 10 percent of trailer weight (850 lbs (386 kg)) and because the weight is applied well behind the rear axle, the effect on the rear axle will be greater than just the weight itself, as much as 1.5 times as much. The weight at the rear axle could be 850 lbs (386 kg) X 1.5 = 1,275 lbs (578 kg). Since the rear axle already weighs 2,700 lbs (1 225 kg), adding 1,275 lbs (578 kg) brings the total to 3,975 lbs (1 803 kg). This is very close to, but within the limit for RGAWR as well. The vehicle is set to trailer up to 8,500 lbs (3 856 kg).
4-67
But let’s say your specific vehicle is equipped with some of the latest options and you have a front seat passenger and two rear seat passengers with some luggage and gear in the vehicle as well. You may add 300 lbs (136 kg) to the front axle weight and 400 lbs (181 kg) to the rear axle weight. Your vehicle now weighs:
Weight is still below 7,200 lbs (3 266 kg) and you may think that you should subtract 700 additional pounds (318 kg) from your trailering capacity to stay within GCWR limits. Your maximum trailer would only be 7,800 lbs (3 538 kg). You may go further and think you must limit tongue weight to less than 1,000 lbs (454 kg) to avoid exceeding GVWR. But, you must still consider the effect on the rear axle. Because your rear axle now weighs 3,100 lbs (1 406 kg), you can only put 900 lbs (408 kg) on the rear axle without exceeding RGAWR. The effect of tongue weight is about 1.5 times the actual weight. Dividing the 900 lbs (408 kg) by 1.5 leaves you with being able to handle only 600 lbs (272 kg) of tongue weight.
4-68
Since tongue weight is usually at least 10 percent of total loaded trailer weight, you can expect that the largest trailer your vehicle can properly handle is 6,000 lbs (2 721 kg). It is important that you make sure your vehicle does not exceed any of its ratings — GCWR, GVWR, RGAWR, Maximum Trailer Rating or Tongue Weight. The only way to be sure you are not exceeding any of these ratings is to weigh your vehicle and trailer. Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the upper limit for cold tires. You’ll find these numbers on the Certification label at the rear edge of the driver’s door or see Tires on page 5-62. Then be sure you don’t go over the GVW and rear axle limits for your vehicle, including the weight of the trailer tongue. If you use a weight distributing hitch, make sure you don’t go over the rear axle limit before you apply the weight distributing spring bars. Hitches It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch.
Weight-Distributing Hitches and Weight Carrying Hitches
(A) Body-to-Ground Distance (B) Front of Vehicle When using a weight-distributing hitch, the hitch must be adjusted so that the distance (A) remains the same both before and after coupling the trailer to the tow vehicle. If you’ll be pulling a trailer that, when loaded, will weigh more than 5,000 lbs (2 270 kg) be sure to use a properly mounted weight-distributing hitch and sway control of the proper size. This equipment is very important for proper vehicle loading and good handling when driving. You should always use a sway control if your trailer will weigh more than these limits. You can ask a hitch dealer about sway controls.
Safety Chains You should always attach chains between your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer to help prevent the tongue from contacting the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Always leave just enough slack so you can turn with your rig. Never allow safety chains to drag on the ground. Trailer Brakes If your trailer weighs more than 2,000 lbs (900 kg) loaded, then it needs its own brakes – and they must be adequate. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install, adjust and maintain them properly. Since your vehicle is equipped with the StabiliTrak® system, your trailer brake system cannot tap into the vehicle’s hydraulic brake system.
4-69
Driving with a Trailer Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as responsive as your vehicle is by itself. Before you start, check all trailer hitch parts and attachments, safety chains, electrical connector, lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your electrical connection at the same time. During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working.
Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns. Passing You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane. Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you.
4-70
Making Turns Notice: Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering. When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance. Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer The arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other drivers you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop. When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working.
Driving On Grades Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. You can tow in DRIVE (D). You may want to shift the transmission to THIRD (3) or, if necessary, a lower gear selection if the transmission shifts too often (e.g., under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions). You may also want to activate the tow/haul mode if the transmission shifts too often. See “Tow/Haul Mode” earlier in this section. When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, consider the following: Engine coolant at or near sea level will boil at a lower temperature than at higher altitudes. If you turn your engine off immediately after towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs similar to engine overheating. To avoid this, let the engine run while parked (preferably on level ground) with the automatic transmission in PARK (P) for a few minutes before turning the engine off. If you do get the overheat warning, see Engine Overheating on page 5-30.
4-71
{CAUTION:
It can be dangerous to get out of your vehicle if the shift lever is not fully in PARK (P) with the parking brake firmly set. Your vehicle can roll. If you have left the engine running, the vehicle can move suddenly. You or others could be injured. To be sure your vehicle will not move, even when you are on fairly level ground, use the steps that follow. Always put the shift lever fully in PARK (P) with the parking brake firmly set. If the transfer case on four-wheel-drive vehicles is in NEUTRAL, your vehicle will be free to roll, even if your shift lever is in PARK (P). So, be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear — not in NEUTRAL.
Parking on Hills
{CAUTION:
You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged.
But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s how to do it: 1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into
PARK (P) yet.
2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer
wheels.
3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your
parking brake and shift into PARK (P).
5. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure the
transfer case is in a drive gear and not in NEUTRAL (N).
6. Release the regular brakes.
4-72
When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down
while you:
start your engine, shift into a gear, and release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks. 4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the
chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more on this. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transmission fluid (don’t overfill), engine oil, axle lubricant, belts, cooling system and brake system. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review these sections before you start your trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight.
Trailer Wiring Harness Heavy-Duty Trailer Wiring Package
Your vehicle is equipped with the eight-wire trailer towing harness. This harness with a seven-pin universal heavy-duty trailer connector is attached to a bracket on the hitch platform. The Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) wire is tied next to the trailer wiring harness for use with a trailer.
4-73
(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) Instrument Panel Jumper Wiring Harness
This harness may be included with your vehicle as part of the heavy-duty trailer wiring package. This harness is for an electric brake controller and includes a trailer battery feed fuse. It should be installed by your dealer or a qualified service center.
The eight-wire harness contains the following trailer circuits: (cid:127) Yellow: Left Stop/Turn Signal (cid:127) Dark Green: Right Stop/Turn Signal (cid:127) Brown: Taillamps (cid:127) White: Ground
Light Green: Back-up Lamps Light Blue: CHMSL (cid:127) Red: Battery Feed** (cid:127) Dark Blue: Trailer Brake **If you are charging a remote (non-vehicle) battery, turn on the headlamps to boost the vehicle system voltage and properly charge the battery.
4-74
(cid:127) (cid:127) Auxiliary Battery The auxiliary battery provision, if equipped, can be used to supply electrical power to additional equipment that you may choose to add.
If your vehicle has this provision, this relay will be located on the passenger’s side of the vehicle, next to the auxiliary battery.
When using this provision, connection should only be made to the upper stud (A) of the relay. Do not make connections to the lower stud (B) of the relay. The auxiliary battery circuit is protected by a megafuse located behind the auxiliary battery. Be sure to follow the proper installation instructions that are included with any electrical equipment that you install.
Notice: Leaving electrical equipment on for extended periods will drain the battery. Always turn off electrical equipment when not in use and do not use equipment that exceeds the maximum amperage rating for the auxiliary battery provision. Trailer Recommendations You must subtract your hitch loads from the Cargo Weight Rating (CWR). CWR is the maximum weight of the load your vehicle can carry. It doesn’t include the weight of the people inside, but you can figure about 150 lbs. (68 kg) for each seat. The total cargo load must not be more than your vehicles CWR. Weigh your vehicle with your trailer attached, so that you won’t go over the GVWR or GAWR. If you are using a weight-distributing hitch, weigh the vehicle without the spring bars in place. You’ll get the best performance if you spread out the weight of your load the right way, and if you choose the correct hitch and trailer brakes. For more information see Towing a Trailer on page 4-62.
4-75
✍ NOTES
4-76
Section 5
Service and Appearance Care
Service ............................................................5-3
Accessories and Modifications ..........................5-3
California Proposition 65 Warning .....................5-3
Doing Your Own Service Work .........................5-4
Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your
Vehicle ......................................................5-4
Fuel ................................................................5-5
Gasoline Octane ............................................5-5
Gasoline Specifications ....................................5-5
California Fuel
...............................................5-6
Additives .......................................................5-6
Fuel E85 (85% Ethanol) ..................................5-7
Fuels in Foreign Countries ...............................5-8
Filling the Tank ..............................................5-9
Filling a Portable Fuel Container .....................5-11
Checking Things Under the Hood ....................5-11
Hood Release ..............................................5-12
Engine Compartment Overview .......................5-14
Engine Oil ...................................................5-17
Engine Oil Life System ..................................5-20
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter ................................5-22
Automatic Transmission Fluid .........................5-25
Engine Coolant .............................................5-28
Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap ..................5-30
Engine Overheating .......................................5-30
Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode ...5-32
Cooling System ............................................5-32
Engine Fan Noise .........................................5-37
Power Steering Fluid .....................................5-38
Windshield Washer Fluid ................................5-39
Brakes ........................................................5-40
Battery ........................................................5-43
Jump Starting ...............................................5-44
Rear Axle .......................................................5-49
Four-Wheel Drive ............................................5-50
Front Axle ......................................................5-51
Bulb Replacement ..........................................5-52
Halogen Bulbs ..............................................5-52
Headlamps ..................................................5-53
Front Turn Signal, Sidemarker and
Parking Lamps ..........................................5-55
Front Turn Signal, Sidemarker and
Daytime Running Lamps .............................5-56
Daytime Running Lamps (DRL) .......................5-58
Taillamps, Turn Signal, Stoplamps and
Back-up Lamps .........................................5-59
Replacement Bulbs .......................................5-60
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement ..............5-61
Tires ..............................................................5-62
Tire Sidewall Labeling ...................................5-63
Tire Terminology and Definitions .....................5-66
5-1
Section 5
Service and Appearance Care
Inflation - Tire Pressure .................................5-68
Tire Pressure Monitor System .........................5-70
Tire Inspection and Rotation ...........................5-73
When It Is Time for New Tires .......................5-75
Buying New Tires .........................................5-76
Different Size Tires and Wheels ......................5-77
Uniform Tire Quality Grading ..........................5-78
Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance ..................5-79
Wheel Replacement ......................................5-79
Tire Chains ..................................................5-81
If a Tire Goes Flat ........................................5-82
Changing a Flat Tire .....................................5-83
Removing the Spare Tire and Tools ................5-84
Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the
Spare Tire ................................................5-88
Secondary Latch System ...............................5-95
Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools ............5-99
Spare Tire .................................................5-102
Appearance Care ..........................................5-103
Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle ...............5-103
Fabric/Carpet ..............................................5-104
Leather ......................................................5-105
Instrument Panel, Vinyl, and Other Plastic
Surfaces .................................................5-105
Care of Safety Belts ....................................5-106
5-2
Weatherstrips .............................................5-106
Washing Your Vehicle ..................................5-106
Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses ....................5-106
Finish Care ................................................5-107
Windshield and Wiper Blades .......................5-107
Aluminum or Chrome-Plated Wheels ..............5-108
Tires .........................................................5-109
Sheet Metal Damage ...................................5-109
Finish Damage ...........................................5-109
Underbody Maintenance ...............................5-109
Chemical Paint Spotting ...............................5-109
Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials ................5-110
Vehicle Identification .....................................5-111
Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) ................5-111
Service Parts Identification Label ...................5-111
Electrical System ..........................................5-111
Windshield Wiper Fuses ...............................5-112
Power Windows and Other Power Options ......5-112
Fuses and Circuit Breakers ..........................5-112
Instrument Panel Fuse Block ........................5-112
Center Instrument Panel Fuse Block ..............5-114
Underhood Fuse Block ................................5-115
Capacities and Specifications ........................5-120
Service Your dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you will go to your dealer for all your service needs. You will get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. We hope you will want to keep your GM vehicle all GM. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:
Accessories and Modifications When you add non-GM accessories to your vehicle they can affect your vehicle’s performance and safety, including such things as, braking, stability, ride and handling, emissions systems, aerodynamics, durability, and electronic systems like antilock brakes, traction control and stability control. Some of these accessories may even cause malfunction or damage not covered by warranty. GM Accessories are designed to complement and function with other systems on your vehicle. Your GM dealer can accessorize your vehicle using genuine GM Accessories. When you go to your GM dealer and ask for GM Accessories, you will know that GM-trained and supported service technicians will perform the work using genuine GM Accessories.
California Proposition 65 Warning Most motor vehicles, including this one, contain and/or emit chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. Engine exhaust, many parts and systems (including some inside the vehicle), many fluids, and some component wear by-products contain and/or emit these chemicals.
5-3
Your vehicle has an airbag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see Servicing Your Airbag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-65. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See Maintenance Record on page 6-17.
Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airflow around it. This may cause wind noise and affect windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle.
Doing Your Own Service Work
{CAUTION:
You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it.
(cid:127) Be sure you have sufficient knowledge,
experience, the proper replacement parts, and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task.
(cid:127) Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts, and
other fasteners. English and metric fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.
If you want to do some of your own service work, you will want to use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 7-15.
5-4
Gasoline Specifications
At a minimum, gasoline should meet ASTM
specification D 4814 in the United States or
CAN/CGSB-3.5 in Canada. Some gasolines may
contain an octane-enhancing additive called
methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT).
General Motors recommends against the use of
gasolines containing MMT. See Additives on page 5-6
for additional information.
Fuel The 8th digit of your vehicle identification number (VIN) shows the code letter or number that identifies your engine. You will find the VIN at the top left of the instrument panel. See Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) on page 5-111. If your vehicle has the 5.3L V8 engine (Code Z), you may use either regular unleaded gasoline or ethanol fuel containing up to 85% ethanol (E85); also see Fuel E85 (85% Ethanol) on page 5-7. In all other engines, use only regular unleaded gasoline.
Gasoline Octane Use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 87 or higher. If the octane rating is less than 87, you may notice an audible knocking noise when you drive, commonly referred to as spark knock. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. If you are using gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service.
5-5
California Fuel If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emissions Standards, it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. See the underhood emission control label. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on and your vehicle may fail a smog-check test. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-40. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs may not be covered by your warranty.
Additives To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that will help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing your emission control system to work properly. In most cases, you should not have to add anything to your fuel. However, some gasolines contain only the minimum amount of additive required to meet U.S. Environmental Protection Agency regulations. To help keep fuel injectors and intake valves clean, or if your vehicle experiences problems due to dirty injectors or valves, look for gasoline that is advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. Also, your GM dealer has additives that will help correct and prevent most deposit-related problems. Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in your area. General Motors recommends that you use these gasolines if they comply with the specifications described earlier. However, E85 (85% ethanol) and other fuels containing more than 10% ethanol must not be used in vehicles that were not designed for those fuels.
5-6
Notice: Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage the plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under your warranty. Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT. General Motors recommends against the use of such gasolines. Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for service.
Fuel E85 (85% Ethanol) The 8th digit of your vehicle identification number (VIN) shows the code letter or number that identifies your engine. You will find the VIN at the top left of the instrument panel. See Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) on page 5-111. If your vehicle has the 5.3L V8 engine (VIN Code Z only), you may use either regular unleaded gasoline or ethanol fuel containing up to 85% ethanol (E85); also see Fuel on page 5-5. In all other engines, including the 5.3L V8 (VIN Code T), use only regular unleaded gasoline. Only vehicles that have the 5.3L V8 engine (VIN Code Z) may use 85% ethanol fuel (E85). General Motors encourages the use of E85 in vehicles that are designed to use it. The ethanol in E85 is a “renewable” fuel, meaning it is made from renewable sources such as corn and other crops. Many service stations will not have an 85% ethanol fuel (E85) pump available. The U. S. Department of Energy has an alternative fuels website (http://www.eere.energy.gov/afdc/infrastructure/ locator.html) that can help you find E85 fuel. Those stations that do have E85 should have a label indicating ethanol content. Do not use the fuel if the ethanol content is greater than 85%.
5-7
At a minimum, E85 should meet ASTM Specification D 5798. To ensure quick starts in the wintertime, the E85 fuel must be formulated properly for your climate according to ASTM specification D 5798. If you have trouble starting on E85, it may be because your E85 fuel is not properly formulated for your climate. If this happens, switching to gasoline or adding gasoline to your fuel tank may improve starting. Your vehicle is designed to accommodate a mixture of gasoline and E85 fuel. For good starting and heater efficiency below 32°F (0°C), the fuel mix in the fuel tank should contain no more than 70% ethanol. E85 has less energy per gallon than gasoline, so you will need to refill your fuel tank more often when using E85 than when you are using gasoline. Regular unleaded gasoline is recommended when pulling a trailer. For payload capacity with ethanol fuel, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-46.
Notice: Some additives are not compatible with E85 fuel and may harm your fuel system. Damage caused by additives would not be covered by your new vehicle warranty. Do not use additives with E85 fuel. Notice: Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage the plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under your warranty.
Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel would not be covered by your warranty. To check the fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you will be driving.
5-8
Filling the Tank
{CAUTION:
Fuel vapor burns violently and a fuel fire can cause bad injuries. To help avoid injuries to you and others, read and follow all the instructions on the pump island. Turn off your engine when you are refueling. Do not smoke if you are near fuel or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, flames, and smoking materials away from fuel. Do not leave the fuel pump unattended when refueling your vehicle — this is against the law in some places. Keep children away from the fuel pump; never let children pump fuel.
The tethered fuel cap is located behind a hinged fuel door on the driver’s side of the vehicle. To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly counterclockwise. It will require more effort to turn the fuel cap on the last turn as you loosen it.
{CAUTION:
If you spill fuel and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any hiss noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.
Be careful not to spill fuel. Do not top off or overfill the tank and wait a few seconds after you have finished pumping before removing the nozzle. Clean fuel from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-106.
5-9
When replacing the fuel cap, turn it clockwise until it clicks. It will require more effort to turn the fuel cap on the last turn as you tighten it. Make sure the cap is fully installed. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-40. The TIGHTEN FUEL CAP message will be displayed on the Driver Information Center (DIC) if the fuel cap is not properly installed. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-50 for more information.
{CAUTION:
If a fire starts while you are refueling, do not remove the nozzle. Shut off the flow of fuel by shutting off the pump or by notifying the station attendant. Leave the area immediately.
If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get
Notice: the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage your fuel tank and emissions system. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-40.
5-10
Filling a Portable Fuel Container
{CAUTION:
Never fill a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others:
(cid:127) Dispense gasoline only into approved
containers.
(cid:127) Do not fill a container while it is inside a
vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed, or on any surface other than the ground. (cid:127) Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the
inside of the fill opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the filling is complete.
(cid:127) Do not smoke while pumping gasoline.
Checking Things Under the Hood
{CAUTION:
An electric fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.
{CAUTION:
Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.
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Hood Release To open the hood, do the following:
1. Pull the handle with
this symbol on it. It is located inside the vehicle to the lower left of the steering column.
Vehicles with Body-Side Cladding
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Vehicles without Body-Side Cladding
2. Then go to the front of the vehicle and push the
secondary hood release lever to the left. This lever is located under the front emblem for vehicles with gray body – side cladding, and above the emblem for vehicles with no body – side cladding.
3. Lift the hood. Before closing the hood, be sure all filler caps are on properly. Pull down the hood and close it firmly.
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Engine Compartment Overview When you open the hood on the 5.3L V8 engine, here is what you will see:
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A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 5-22.
B. Coolant Surge Tank and Pressure Cap. See Cooling
System on page 5-32 and Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap on page 5-30.
C. Air Filter Restriction Indicator (If Equipped). See
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter on page 5-22.
D. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”
under Engine Oil on page 5-17.
E. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”
under Engine Oil on page 5-17.
F. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick. See “Checking the Fluid Level” under Automatic Transmission Fluid on page 5-25.
G. Engine Cooling Fan. See Cooling System on
page 5-32.
H. Remote Negative (−) Terminal (GND). See Jump
Starting on page 5-44.
I. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir (Out of View). See
Power Steering Fluid on page 5-38.
J. Remote Positive (+) Terminal. See Jump Starting on
page 5-44.
K. Brake Fluid Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid” under
Brakes on page 5-40.
L. Underhood Fuse Block. See Underhood Fuse Block
on page 5-115.
M. Battery. See Battery on page 5-43. N. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding
Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-39.
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When you open the hood on the 8.1 V8 engine, here is what you will see:
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A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 5-22.
B. Coolant Surge Tank and Pressure Cap. See Cooling
System on page 5-32 and Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap on page 5-30.
C. Air Filter Restriction Indicator (If Equipped). See
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter on page 5-22.
D. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”
under Engine Oil on page 5-17.
E. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick. See “Checking the Fluid Level” under Automatic Transmission Fluid on page 5-25.
F. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”
under Engine Oil on page 5-17.
G. Engine Cooling Fan. See Cooling System on
page 5-32.
H. Remote Negative (−) Terminal (GND). See Jump
Starting on page 5-44.
I. Remote Positive (+) Terminal. See Jump Starting on
page 5-44.
J. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See Power Steering
Fluid on page 5-38.
K. Brake Fluid Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid” under
Brakes on page 5-40.
L. Underhood Fuse Block. See Underhood Fuse Block
on page 5-115.
M. Battery. See Battery on page 5-43. N. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding
Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-39.
Engine Oil If the CHECK OIL LEVEL message appears on the instrument cluster, it means you need to check your engine oil level right away. For more information, see CHECK OIL LEVEL under DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-50. You should check your engine oil level regularly; this is an added reminder. Checking Engine Oil It is a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground. The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for the location of the engine oil dipstick. 1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes
to drain back into the oil pan. If you do not do this, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.
2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.
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When to Add Engine Oil
8.1L Engine
Notice: Do not add too much oil. If the engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, the engine could be damaged.
See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for the location of the engine oil fill cap.
Be sure to add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you are through.
All Except 8.1L Engine
If the oil is below the cross-hatched area at the tip of the dipstick, you will need to add at least one quart/liter of oil. But you must use the right kind. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Specifications on page 5-120.
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What Kind of Engine Oil to Use
These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50.
Oils meeting these requirements should also have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API).
Look for two things: (cid:127) GM6094M
Your vehicle’s engine requires oil meeting GM Standard GM6094M. You should look for and use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM6094M.
(cid:127) SAE 5W-30
As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle.
You should look for this information on the oil container, and use only those oils that are identified as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and have the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. Notice: Use only engine oil identified as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and showing the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty.
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When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it will indicate that an oil change is necessary. A CHANGE ENGINE OIL message will come on. Change your oil as soon as possible within the next 600 miles (1 000 km). It is possible that, if you are driving under the best conditions, the oil life system may not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, your engine oil and filter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. Your dealer has GM-trained service people who will perform this work using genuine GM parts and reset the system. It is also important to check your oil regularly and keep it at the proper level. If the system is ever reset accidentally, you must change your oil at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since your last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed.
GM Goodwrench® oil meets all the requirements for
your vehicle.
If you are in an area of extreme cold, where the
temperature falls below −20°F (−29°C), it is
recommended that you use either an SAE 5W-30
synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both will provide
easier cold starting and better protection for your engine
at extremely low temperatures.
Engine Oil Additives
Do not add anything to your oil. The recommended oils
with the starburst symbol that meet GM Standard
GM6094M are all you will need for good performance
and engine protection.
Engine Oil Life System When to Change Engine Oil Your vehicle has a computer system that lets you know when to change the engine oil and filter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change will be indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, you must reset the system every time the oil is changed.
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How to Reset the Engine Oil Life System The Engine Oil Life System calculates when to change your engine oil and filter based on vehicle use. Anytime your oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where you change your oil prior to a CHANGE ENGINE OIL message being turned on, reset the system. To reset the CHANGE ENGINE OIL message, see “Engine Oil Life System” under DIC Operation and Displays on page 3-47 for vehicles equipped with the DIC, or do the following: 1. Turn the ignition key to RUN with the engine off. 2. Fully press and release the accelerator pedal slowly
three times within five seconds. If the OIL LIFE RESET message flashes for 10 seconds, the system is resetting.
3. Turn the key to LOCK. If the CHANGE ENGINE OIL message comes back on when you start your vehicle, the engine oil life system has not reset. Repeat the procedure. If it still does not reset, see your dealer for service.
What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the filter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help.
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Engine Air Cleaner/Filter
See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for the location of the engine air cleaner/filter and the air filter restriction indicator, if equipped.
When to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter If your vehicle is equipped with an air filter restriction indicator, it lets you know when the engine air cleaner/ filter needs to be replaced. On vehicles with a restriction indicator, you should inspect the air filter restriction indicator at every oil change and replace the engine air cleaner/filter when the indicator tells you to. On vehicles without an air filter restriction indicator, inspect the air cleaner/filter at the Maintenance II intervals and replace it at the first oil change after each 50,000 mile (83 000 km) interval. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 for more information. If you are driving in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect the filter at each engine oil change.
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How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Vehicles With an Air Filter Restriction Indicator Locate the air filter restriction indicator on the engine air cleaner/filter cover. When the indicator turns black or is in the red/orange “change” zone, replace the filter and reset the indicator. See the steps following to replace the engine air cleaner/filter and to reset the air filter restriction indicator. Vehicles Without an Air Filter Restriction Indicator To inspect the air cleaner/filter, remove the engine air cleaner/filter from the vehicle using the steps following. When you have the engine air cleaner/filter removed, lightly shake it to release loose dust and dirt. If the engine air cleaner/filter remains caked with dirt, a new filter is required.
Replacing the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter and Resetting the Air Filter Restriction Indicator
1. Locate the air cleaner/filter assembly on the front
corner of the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle.
2. Loosen the screws on the cover of the housing and
lift up the cover.
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{CAUTION:
Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps to stop flames if the engine backfires. If it is not there and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.
3. Remove the engine air cleaner/filter from the housing. Care should be taken to dislodge as little dirt as possible.
4. Clean the engine air cleaner/filter sealing surfaces
and the housing.
5. Inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/filter. 6. Reinstall the cover and tighten the screws. 7. Reset the air filter restriction indicator, if equipped,
by pressing the top button on the indicator.
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Automatic Transmission Fluid When to Check and Change Automatic Transmission Fluid A good time to check your automatic transmission fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change the fluid and filter at the intervals listed in Additional Required Services on page 6-6, and be sure to use the transmission fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13. How to Check Automatic Transmission Fluid Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.
Notice: Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine part or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Too little fluid could cause the transmission to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid. Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission fluid level if you have been driving: (cid:127) When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C). (cid:127) At high speed for quite a while.
In heavy traffic — especially in hot weather.
(cid:127) While pulling a trailer. To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C).
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(cid:127) Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:
The transmission dipstick handle with this graphic is located at the rear of