2005 Chevrolet Avalanche Owners Manual

Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.

5-34

How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Surge Tank If you have not found a problem yet, check to see if coolant is visible in the surge tank. If coolant is visible but the coolant level is not at the FULL COLD mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant at the coolant surge tank, but be sure the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is cool before you do it. See Engine Coolant on page 5-28 for more information. If no coolant is visible in the surge tank, add coolant as follows:

{CAUTION:

Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the radiator pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and radiator pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.

{CAUTION:

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.

In cold weather, water can freeze and crack

Notice: the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture.

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{CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.

If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.

2. Then keep turning the pressure cap slowly, and

remove it.

3. Fill the coolant surge tank with the proper mixture,

to the FULL COLD mark.

1. You can remove the coolant surge tank pressure

cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise (left) about one full turn.

5-36

Engine Fan Noise If your vehicle is equipped with a clutched engine cooling fan, when the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide more air to cool the engine. In most everyday driving conditions, the fan is spinning slower and the clutch is not fully engaged. This improves fuel economy and reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing, and/or high outside temperatures, the fan speed increases as the clutch more fully engages, so you may hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and should not be mistaken as the transmission slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system functioning properly. The fan will slow down when additional cooling is not required and the clutch disengages. You may also hear this fan noise when you start the engine. It will go away as the fan clutch partially disengages. If your vehicle is equipped with electric cooling fans, you may hear the fans spinning at low speed during most everyday driving. The fans may turn off if no cooling is required. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing, and/or high outside temperatures, or if you are operating your air conditioning system, the fans change to high speed and you may hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and indicates that the cooling system is functioning properly. The fans will change to low speed when additional cooling is no longer required.

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4. With the coolant surge tank pressure cap off, start

the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fan. By this time, the coolant level inside the coolant surge tank may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper mixture to the coolant surge tank until the level reaches the FULL COLD mark.

5. Then replace the pressure cap. Be sure the pressure cap is hand-tight and fully seated.

Power Steering Fluid

5300 V8 engine

8100 V8 engine

See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for reservoir location. When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.

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How to Check Power Steering Fluid

Locate the cap with this symbol. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for more information on location.

To check the power steering fluid, do the following:

1. Turn the key off and let the engine compartment

cool down.

2. Wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean. 3. Unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a

clean rag.

4. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. 5. Remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on

the dipstick.

The level should be at the FULL COLD mark. If necessary, add only enough fluid to bring the level up to the mark. What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13. Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.

5-39

Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing. Adding Washer Fluid Your vehicle has a low washer fluid message that comes on when the washer fluid is low. The message is displayed for 15 seconds at the start of each ignition cycle. When the LOW WASHER FLUID message is displayed, you will need to add washer fluid to the windshield washer fluid reservoir.

Notice: (cid:127) When using concentrated washer fluid, follow

the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.

(cid:127) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid.

Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer fluid. Fill your washer fluid tank only three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.

(cid:127) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.

Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer fluid until the tank is full. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for reservoir location.

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(cid:127) Brakes Brake Fluid

Your brake master cylinder reservoir is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14
for the location of the reservoir.

There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes will not work well, or will not work at all.

So, it is not a good idea to top off your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid will not correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you will have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add or remove brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

{CAUTION:

If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. See “Checking Brake Fluid” in this section.

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to check your brake fluid. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4.

5-41

Checking Brake Fluid You can check the brake fluid without taking off the cap.

Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.

Look at the brake fluid reservoir. The fluid level should be above MIN. If it is not, have your brake system checked to see if there is a leak.

After work is done on the brake hydraulic system, make sure the level is above the MIN but not over the MAX mark. What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13.

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{CAUTION:

With the wrong kind of fluid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.

Notice: (cid:127) Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Appearance Care on page 5-95.

(cid:127) Brake Wear Your vehicle has four-wheel disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving, except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly.

{CAUTION:

The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.

Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair.

Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM torque specifications. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you make a brake stop, your disc brakes adjust for wear.

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Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system — for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you do not, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance you have come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.

Battery Your vehicle has a maintenance free battery. When it is time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco® replacement battery. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for battery location.

Warning: Battery posts, terminals and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling. Vehicle Storage If you are not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.

{CAUTION:

Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 5-45 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.

Also, for your audio system, see Theft-Deterrent Feature on page 3-102.

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Jump Starting If your battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely.

{CAUTION:

Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:

(cid:127) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:127) They contain gas that can explode

(cid:127) They contain enough electricity to

or ignite.

burn you.

If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.

Ignoring these steps could result in costly

Notice: damage to your vehicle that would not be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage your vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt

battery with a negative ground system.

If the other vehicle’s system is not a 12-volt

Notice: system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transmission in PARK (P) or a manual transmission in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake.

If you leave your radio or other accessories

Notice: on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and other accessories when jump starting your vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug

unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or the accessory power outlets. Turn off the radio and all lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save the radio!

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4. Open the hood and locate the positive (+) and

negative (−) terminal locations on the other vehicle. Your vehicle has a remote positive (+) jump starting terminal and a remote negative (−) jump starting terminal. You should always use these remote terminals instead of the terminals on the battery. The remote positive (+) terminal is located near the engine accessory drive bracket. On some vehicles, the terminal may be covered under a red plastic cover. To access the remote positive (+) terminal, open the red plastic cover.

Vortec 8100 Engine

5-46

The remote negative (−) terminal is located on the engine accessory drive bracket and is marked “GND” for all Vortec 5300 engines. It is located on the thermostat housing and marked “GND” for all Vortec 8100 engines.

Vortec 5300 Engine

See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14
for more information on location.

{CAUTION:

An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

{CAUTION:

Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you do not, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.

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{CAUTION:

Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.

5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or

missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive terminal (+) if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too.

6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+)

terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. 8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Your vehicle’s remote negative (−) terminal is marked GND. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.

9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable at

least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less.

10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run

the engine for awhile.

11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery.

If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service.

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If the jumper cables are removed in the

Notice: wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal.

Jumper Cable Removal

A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or Remote

Negative (−) Terminal

B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and Remote

Negative (−) Terminals

C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal

To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the

vehicle that had the dead battery.

2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other

vehicle.

5. Return the positive (+) remote terminal cover, if

equipped, to its original position.

Rear Axle When to Check Lubricant It is not necessary to regularly check rear axle fluid unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired.

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What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13. Four-Wheel Drive Transfer Case It is not necessary to regularly check transfer case fluid unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to change the lubricant. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4.

How to Check Lubricant

1500 Series shown, 2500 Series similar

To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. The proper level for the 1500 Series is from 5/8 inch to 1 5/8 inch (15 mm to 40 mm) below the bottom of the filler plug hole. The proper level for the 2500 Series is from 0 to 1/2 inch (0 to 13 mm) below the bottom of the filler plug hole. Add only enough fluid to reach the proper level.

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How to Check Lubricant

Front Axle When to Check and Change Lubricant It is not necessary to regularly check front axle fluid unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired. How to Check Lubricant

1. Remove the filler plug. 2. Add new fluid until the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, located on the transfer case. To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13.

3. Reinstall the filler plug. Use care not to overtighten

the filler plug.

To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface.

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If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, located on the front axle, you may need to add some lubricant: (cid:127) When the differential is cold, add enough lubricant

to raise the level from 1/2 inch (12 mm) to about 5/8 inch (18 mm) below the filler plug hole for the 1500 series, and from 1/4 inch (6 mm) to about 3/8 inch (10 mm) below the filler plug hole for 2500 series.

(cid:127) When the differential is at operating temperature

(warm), add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.

What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13.

Bulb Replacement For the proper type of replacement bulbs, see Replacement Bulbs on page 5-60. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer.

Halogen Bulbs

{CAUTION:

Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.

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Headlamps Vehicles with Body-Side Cladding 1. Remove the turn

signal/parking lamp housing by pressing the release clip on the outboard side of the housing and pulling the outboard end of the housing toward you.

2. Pull the inboard side of the housing out from

the vehicle.

3. Pull the pins away from their clips and pull them up

until they completely release from the vehicle. 4. Pull the headlamp assembly out of the vehicle.

5-53

Vehicles without Body-Side Cladding

A. Low-Beam Headlamp B. High-Beam Headlamp

5. Turn the bulb connector counterclockwise and pull it

out of the housing.

6. Unplug the electrical connector from the old bulb. 7. Plug in the electrical connector to the new bulb. Use

care not to touch the new bulb with your bare hands or anything damp or oily.

8. Place the connector with the new bulb into the

headlamp housing and turn it clockwise until it is tight.

9. Put the headlamp assembly back into the vehicle

and reinstall the two pins.

10. Place the inboard end of the turn signal/parking

lamp housing into the pocket.

11. Push the outboard side of the housing in until the

release clip snaps into place.

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1. Remove the pin on the headlamp assembly by

turning the pin up and pulling it straight out.

2. Pull the headlamp assembly out.

Front Turn Signal, Sidemarker and Parking Lamps Vehicles with Body-Side Cladding

A. Low-Beam Headlamp B. High-Beam Headlamp

3. Unplug the electrical connector. 4. Turn the old bulb counterclockwise and remove it

from the headlamp assembly.

5. Put the new bulb into the assembly and turn it clockwise until it is tight. Use care not to touch the bulb with your fingers or hands.

6. Plug in the electrical connector. 7. Put the headlamp assembly back into the vehicle.

Install the pin and turn it into the locking feature.

A. Sidemarker Lamp B. Front Turn Signal/Parking Lamp

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1. Remove the turn

signal/parking lamp housing by pressing the release clip on the outboard side of the housing and pulling the outboard end of the housing toward you.

Front Turn Signal, Sidemarker and Daytime Running Lamps Vehicles without Body-Side Cladding

2. Pull the inboard side of the housing out from

the vehicle.

3. Press the locking release lever (the sidemarker

lamp does not have a locking release lever), turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and remove it from the turn signal/parking lamp housing.

4. Remove the old bulb from the bulb socket. 5. Put the new bulb into the bulb socket. 6. Put the bulb socket into the turn signal housing and turn it clockwise until it locks (the sidemarker lamp does not lock into place).

7. Place the inboard end of the turn signal/parking

lamp housing into the pocket.

8. Push the outboard side of the housing in until the

release clip snaps into place.

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A. Daytime Running Lamp (DRL) B. Front Turn Signal/Parking Lamp C. Sidemarker Lamp 1. Remove the headlamp assembly as

mentioned previously.

2. Press the retainer clip (arrow), located behind the turn signal housing, towards the outside of the vehicle.

3. Pull the turn signal housing out from the vehicle.

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4. Press the locking release lever (the sidemarker

lamp does not have a locking release lever), turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and remove it from the turn signal housing.

5. Remove the old bulb from the bulb socket. 6. Put the new bulb into the bulb socket. Use care not

to touch the bulb with your fingers or hands.

7. Put the bulb socket into the turn signal housing and turn it clockwise until it locks (the sidemarker lamps does not lock into place).

8. Put the turn signal housing back onto the vehicle placing the hook and posts on the inner side into the alignment holes first and then the outer side into the retainer bracket. Push until you hear a click.

9. Put the headlamp assembly back into the vehicle.

Daytime Running Lamps (DRL) Vehicles with Body-Side Cladding The DRLs are located in the front fascia near the foglamps. They can be identified by their square shape. 1. Reach under the front fascia and locate the DRL housing. Be sure you are not picking the foglamp housing, which is near the DRLs.

2. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and remove

it from the DRL housing.

3. Pull out the old bulb from the socket and put a new

bulb in.

4. Place the bulb socket back into the DRL housing

and turn it clockwise until it is tight.

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Taillamps

A. Stoplamp B. Turn Signal Lamp C. Back-up Lamp

2. Remove the two rear

lamp assembly screws near the tailgate latch and pull out the lamp assembly.

To replace taillamp bulb, do the following:

1. Open the tailgate. See Tailgate on page 2-22 for

more information.

3. Press the release

tab and turn the bulb socket counterclockwise to remove it from the taillamp housing.

4. Pull the old bulb straight out from the socket.

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Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected at least twice a year for wear and cracking. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 for more information. Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. For proper type and length, see Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 6-15. To replace the windshield wiper blade assembly do the following: 1. Lift the wiper arm and turn the blade until it is

facing away from the windshield.

5. Press a new bulb into the socket and turn the socket clockwise into the taillamp housing until it clicks.

6. Reinstall the rear lamp assembly and tighten

the screws.

7. Close the tailgate.

Replacement Bulbs

Exterior Lamp

Bulb Number

Back-up Lamp Daytime Running Lamps (DRL) Front Parking and Turn Signal Lamp Headlamps

High-Beam Low-Beam

Rear Marker/Turn Signal Lamp, Taillamp and Stoplamp Sidemarker Lamp *Vehicles with Body-Side Cladding

3157
4114K

3157A or 3457NA

*9011 or 9005

9006

3157

194

For replacement bulbs not listed here, contact your dealer.

5-60

{CAUTION:

Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous.

(cid:127) Overloading your tires can cause

overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-46.

(cid:127) Underinflated tires pose the same danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-67.

(cid:127) Overinflated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured or broken by a sudden impact —such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure.

(cid:127) Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If your

tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them.

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2. Push the release lever and slide the wiper assembly

toward the driver’s side of the vehicle.

3. Install a new blade by reversing Steps 1 and 2. Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your GM Warranty booklet for details. For additional information refer to the tire manufacturer’s booklet included with your vehicle’s Owner’s Manual.

Tire Sidewall Labelling Useful information about a tire is molded into the sidewall. The following illustrations are examples of a typical P-Metric and a LT-Metric tire sidewall.

Passenger (P-Metric) Tire

(A) Tire Size: The tire size code is a combination of letters and numbers used to define a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail.

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(B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines. (C) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards. (D) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT code are the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (E) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (F) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction and temperature resistance. For more information, see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-73. (G) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. For information on recommended tire pressure see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-67 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-46.

specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines. (C) Dual Tire Maximum Load: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load when used in a dual configuration. For information on recommended tire pressure see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-67 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-46. (D) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards. (E) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT code are the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (F) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (G) Single Tire Maximum Load: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load when used as a single. For information on recommended tire pressure see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-67 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-46.

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Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire

(A) Tire Size: The tire size code is a combination of letters and numbers used to define a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail.

(B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC

Tire Size The following examples show the different parts of a tire size.

Passenger (P-Metric) Tire

Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire

(A) Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter P as the first character in the tire size means a passenger vehicle tire engineered to standards set by the U.S. Tire and Rim Association.

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(A) Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letters LT as the first two characters in the tire size means a light truck tire engineered to standards set by the U.S. Tire and Rim Association.

(B) Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall.

(C) Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is 75, as shown in item C of the light truck (LT-Metric) tire illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is 75% as high as it is wide.

(D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter R means radial ply construction; the letter D means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter B means belted-bias ply construction.

(E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches.

(F) Service Description: The service description indicates the load range and speed rating of a tire. The load index can range from 1 to 279. Speed ratings range from A to Z.

Tire Terminology and Definitions

Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or kiloPascal (kPa).

Accessory Weight: This means the combined weight of optional accessories. Some examples of optional accessories are, automatic transmission, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air conditioning.

Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire’s height to its width.

Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials.

Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim.

Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the plies are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.

Cold Inflation Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up heat from driving. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-67.

Curb Weight: This means the weight of a motor vehicle with standard and optional equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil and coolant, but without passengers and cargo.

DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identification Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand and date of production.

GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-46.

GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front axle, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-46.

GAWR RR: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-46.

Intended Outboard Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire, that must always face outward when mounted on a vehicle.

KiloPascal (kPa): The metric unit for air pressure.

Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: A tire used on light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles.

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Load Index: An assigned number ranging from 1 to 279 that corresponds to the load carrying capacity of a tire.

Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: A tire used on passenger cars and some light duty trucks and multipurpose vehicles.

Maximum Inflation Pressure: The maximum air pressure to which a cold tire may be inflated. The maximum air pressure is molded onto the sidewall.

Maximum Load Rating: The load rating for a tire at the maximum permissible inflation pressure for that tire.

Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight: The sum of curb weight; accessory weight; vehicle capacity weight; and production options weight.

Normal Occupant Weight: The number of occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-46.

Occupant Distribution: Designated seating positions.

Outward Facing Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that faces outward when mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears white lettering or bears manufacturer, brand, and/or model name molding that is higher or deeper than the same moldings on the other sidewall of the tire.

Recommended Inflation Pressure: Vehicle manufacturer’s recommended tire inflation pressure and shown on the tire placard. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-67 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-46.

Radial Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.

Rim: A metal support for a tire and upon which the tire beads are seated.

Sidewall: The portion of a tire between the tread and the bead.

Speed Rating: An alphanumeric code assigned to a tire indicating the maximum speed at which a tire can operate.

Traction: The friction between the tire and the road surface. The amount of grip provided.

Tread: The portion of a tire that comes into contact with the road.

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Treadwear Indicators: Narrow bands, sometimes called “wear bars,” that show across the tread of a tire when only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) of tread remains. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-71.

UTQGS (Uniform Tire Quality Grading Standards): A tire information system that provides consumers with ratings for a tire’s traction, temperature, and treadwear. Ratings are determined by tire manufacturers using government testing procedures. The ratings are molded into the sidewall of the tire. See Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-73.

Vehicle Capacity Weight: The number of designated seating positions multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg) plus the rated cargo load. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-46.

Vehicle Maximum Load on the Tire: Load on an individual tire due to curb weight, accessory weight, occupant weight, and cargo weight.

Vehicle Placard: A label permanently attached to a vehicle showing the vehicle’s capacity weight and the original equipment tire size and recommended inflation pressure. See “Tire and Loading Information Label” under Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-46.

Inflation - Tire Pressure Tires need the correct amount of air pressure to operate effectively. Notice: Do not let anyone tell you that under-inflation or over-inflation is all right. It is not. If your tires do not have enough air (under-inflation), you can get the following:

Too much flexing Too much heat Tire overloading

(cid:127) Premature or irregular wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Reduced fuel economy If your tires have too much air (over-inflation), you can get the following: (cid:127) Unusual wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Rough ride (cid:127) Needless damage from road hazards

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(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) A Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar), below the driver’s door lock post (striker). This label lists your vehicle’s original equipment tires and their recommended cold tire inflation pressures. The recommended cold tire inflation pressure, shown on the label, is the minimum amount of air pressure needed to support your vehicle’s maximum load carrying capacity. For additional information regarding how much weight your vehicle can carry, and an example of the tire and loading information label, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-46. When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Do not forget to check the spare tire. For additional information regarding the spare tire, see Spare Tire on page 5-95. How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You cannot tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they’re underinflated. Check the tire’s inflation pressure when the tires are cold. Cold means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km).

Remove the valve cap from the tire valve stem. Press the tire gage firmly onto the valve to get a pressure measurement. If the cold tire inflation pressure matches the recommended pressure on the Tire and Loading Information label, no further adjustment is necessary. If the inflation pressure is low, add air until you reach the recommended amount. If you overfill the tire, release air by pushing on the metal stem in the center of the tire valve. Recheck the tire pressure with the tire gage. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture. Improved Ride with Light Load (2500 Series Vehicles Only)

{CAUTION:

Do not overload your vehicle or underinflate the tires. Overloading your vehicle or underinflating the tires can cause rapid loss of pressure and cause a serious crash. Only use reduced rear tire pressure when your vehicle meets the criteria for a light load.

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If you have a 2500 Series vehicle with LT245/75R16E size tires and you are operating your vehicle under light-load conditions, you can improve ride quality by adjusting both the front and rear cold tires to the recommended pressure shown on the Improved Ride label.

An example of the Improved Ride label is shown here. This label is attached to the lower section of the driver’s door edge, for 2500 Series vehicles only.

Operating your vehicle with a light load means:

The total weight of occupants in your vehicle is less than the total seating capacity number your vehicle was designed to carry multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg). The total seating capacity number is on the Tire and Loading Information label.

(cid:127) No more than 200 lbs (91 kg) of cargo, which must

be secured in the cargo area.

(cid:127) No trailer is attached to your vehicle. (cid:127) You have not added any additional equipment to

your vehicle, like a truck cap or tool box.

The vehicle load capacity and the rear axle load capacity are reduced when the tire pressure is lowered to the amount recommended for improved ride. Before operating your vehicle with passengers or cargo greater than a light-load, you must inflate the rear tires to the recommended cold tire pressure shown on the Tire and Loading Information Label. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-46.

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(cid:127) Tire Inspection and Rotation Tires should be rotated every 5,000 to 8,000 miles (8 000 to 13 000 km). Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-71 and Wheel Replacement on page 5-74 for more information. Make sure the spare tire is stored securely. Push, pull, and then try to rotate or turn the tire. If it moves, use the ratchet/wheel wrench to tighten the cable. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-78. The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The first rotation is the most important. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4.

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When rotating your tires, always use the correct rotation pattern shown here. Do not include the spare tire in your tire rotation. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the tire and loading information label. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-46 and Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-67, for more information. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” under Capacities and Specifications on page 5-114.

{CAUTION:

Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if needed, to get all the rust or dirt off. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-78.

When It Is Time for New Tires

One way to tell when it’s time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining. Some commercial truck tires may not have treadwear indicators.

You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true: (cid:127) You can see the indicators at three or more places

around the tire.

(cid:127) You can see cord or fabric showing through the

tire’s rubber. The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged deep enough to show cord or fabric. The tire has a bump, bulge or split. The tire has a puncture, cut or other damage that can’t be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage.

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(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) Buying New Tires To find out what kind and size of tires you need, look at the Certification/Tire label or the Tire and Loading Information label. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-46 for more information about these labels and where they can be found on your vehicle. The tires installed on your vehicle when it was new had a Tire Performance Criteria Specifications (TPC Spec) number on each tire’s sidewall. When you get new tires, GM recommends that you get tires with that same TPC Spec number. That way your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give proper endurance, handling, speed rating, load range, traction, ride, tire pressure monitoring system performance and other things during normal service on your vehicle. If your tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC number will be followed by an “MS” (for mud and snow). Whenever you replace your tires with those not having a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating and construction type (bias, bias-belted or radial) as your original tires. If you replace your vehicle’s tires with those not having a TPC Spec number, the tire pressure monitoring system may give an inaccurate low pressure warning. Non-TPC Spec tires may give a low pressure warning that is higher or lower than the proper warning level you would get with TPC Spec numbered tires.

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{CAUTION:

Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes or types (radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the same size and type tires on all wheels. Your vehicle may be equipped with a different size spare than the road tires (those originally installed on your vehicle). When new, your vehicle included a spare tire and wheel assembly with a similar overall diameter as your vehicle’s road tires and wheels, so it is all right to drive on it. Because this spare was developed for use on your vehicle, it will not affect vehicle handling.

{CAUTION:

If you use bias-ply tires on your vehicle, the wheel rim flanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle.

Uniform Tire Quality Grading Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum section width. For example: Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, which grades tires by treadwear, traction and temperature performance. (This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.) The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most

passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards. Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1.5) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and climate.

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Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. If you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling one way or the other, the alignment may need to be reset. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your wheels may need to be rebalanced.

Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your dealer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need. Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces.

Traction – AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics. Temperature – A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.

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If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for your vehicle.

Used Replacement Wheels

{CAUTION:

Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is dangerous. You can’t know how it’s been used or how far it’s been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause a crash. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new GM original equipment wheel.

{CAUTION:

Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for replacement.

Notice: The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-78 for more information.

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If your vehicle is a 2500 Series, use tire

Notice: chains only where legal and only when you must. Use chains that are the proper size for your tires. Install them on the tires of the rear axle. Don’t use chains on the tires of the front axle. Tighten them as tightly as possible with the ends securely fastened. Drive slowly and follow the chain manufacturer’s instructions. If you can hear the chains contacting your vehicle, stop and retighten them. If the contact continues, slow down until it stops. Driving too fast or spinning the wheels with chains on will damage your vehicle.

Tire Chains

{CAUTION:

If your vehicle is a 1500 Series, don’t use tire chains. They can damage your vehicle because there’s not enough clearance. Tire chains used on a vehicle without the proper amount of clearance can cause damage to the brakes, suspension or other vehicle parts. The area damaged by the tire chains could cause you to lose control of your vehicle and you or others may be injured in a crash. Use another type of traction device only if its manufacturer recommends it for use on your vehicle and tire size combination and road conditions. Follow that manufacturer’s instructions. To help avoid damage to your vehicle, drive slowly, readjust or remove the device if it’s contacting your vehicle, and don’t spin your wheels. If you do find traction devices that will fit, install them on the rear tires.

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If a Tire Goes Flat It’s unusual for a tire to “blowout” while you’re driving, especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane. A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you’d use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop, well off the road if possible.

{CAUTION:

Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do maintenance or repairs is dangerous without the appropriate safety equipment and training. The jack provided with your vehicle is designed only for changing a flat tire. If it is used for anything else, you or others could be badly injured or killed if the vehicle slips off the jack. Use the jack provided with your vehicle only for changing a flat tire.

If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.

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Changing a Flat Tire If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard warning flashers.

{CAUTION:

Changing a tire can be dangerous. The vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over or fall on you or other people. You and they could be badly injured or even killed. Find a level place to change your tire. To help prevent the vehicle from moving:

1. Set the parking brake firmly. 2. Put the shift lever in PARK (P). 3. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear— not in NEUTRAL.

4. Turn off the engine and do not restart

while the vehicle is raised.

CAUTION:

(Continued)

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CAUTION:

(Continued)

5. Do not allow passengers to remain in

the vehicle.

6. Put the wheel blocks at the front and rear of the tire farthest away from the one being changed. That would be the tire on the other side, at the opposite end of the vehicle.

The following information will tell you how to use the jack and change a tire.

Removing the Spare Tire and Tools The jack and the wheel blocks are located under a cover near the passenger side rear seat. To remove the jack and wheel blocks, do the following:

Rear seat (passenger side) jack cover

1. Remove the jack cover by turning the two wing nuts

one-quarter turn counterclockwise and pulling the jack cover off.

E. Jack F. Jack Head G. Mounting Bracket

A. Wheel Blocks B. Knob C. Wing Nut D. Retaining Hook 2. Release the jack (E) from the mounting bracket (G) by turning the knob (B) on the jack counterclockwise to lower the jack head (F) from the mounting bracket.

3. Remove the wheel blocks (A) attached to the

jack (E) by turning the wing nut (C) counterclockwise. Place the wheel blocks where needed as indicated in the previous caution.

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The tools for changing a flat tire are located in the passenger’s side top-box storage unit. To remove the tools, do the following: 1. Open the top door on the passenger’s side top-box storage unit. Use the ignition/door key to unlock it if it is locked. See Top-Box Storage on page 2-77
for more information.

You’ll use the jack handle extensions and the wheel wrench to remove the underbody-mounted spare tire.

Top-box storage unit (passenger’s side)

2. Remove the black pouch from the storage box.

You now have all of the tools you will need to lower the spare tire and change a flat.

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A. Spare Tire

(Valve Stem Pointed Down) B. Hoist Assembly C. Hoist Cable D. Tire Retainer E. Hoist Shaft F. Hoist End of

Extension Tool

G. Hoist Shaft

Access Hole

H. Wheel Wrench I. Jack Handle

Extensions

J. Hoist Lock (If

Equipped)

Follow these instructions to lower the spare tire: 1. Your vehicle may be equipped with a hoist lock (J). Open the spare tire lock cover on the bumper and use the ignition key to remove the lock.

3. Insert the hoist end

(open end) (F) of the extension through the hole (G) in the rear bumper.

2. Assemble the wheel wrench (H) and the two jack

handle extensions (I) as shown.

Be sure the hoist end of the extension connects to the hoist shaft (E). The ribbed square end of the extension is used to lower the spare tire.

4. Turn the wheel wrench (H) counterclockwise to lower the spare tire to the ground. Continue to turn the wheel wrench until the spare tire can be pulled out from under the vehicle. If the spare tire does not lower to the ground, the secondary latch is engaged causing the tire not to lower. See Secondary Latch System on page 5-89.

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5. The wheel wrench has a hook that allows you to pull the hoist cable towards you to assist in reaching the spare tire.

Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire Use the following pictures and instructions to remove the flat tire and raise the vehicle.

6. When the tire has

been lowered, tilt the retainer (D) at the end of the cable so it can be pulled up through the wheel opening.

7. Put the spare tire near the flat tire.

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The tools you’ll be using include the bottle jack (A), the wheel blocks (B), the jack handle (C), the jack handle extensions (D), and the wheel wrench (E).

1. If your vehicle has

wheel nut caps, loosen them by turning the wheel wrench counterclockwise. If the vehicle has a center cap with wheel nut caps, the wheel nut caps are designed to stay with the center cap after they are loosened. Remove the entire center cap.

If the wheel has a smooth center cap, place the chisel end of the wheel wrench in the slot on the wheel and gently pry out.

2. Use the wheel

wrench to loosen all the wheel nuts. Turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise to loosen the wheel nuts. Don’t remove the wheel nuts yet.

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{CAUTION:

Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned can damage the vehicle and even make the vehicle fall. To help avoid personal injury and vehicle damage, be sure to fit the jack lift head into the proper location before raising the vehicle.

3. Position the jack under the vehicle.

Jack positions (overall view)

These locations (A) front position (B), rear position are the general area of jack placement. See text and art following for the exact jack placement.

{CAUTION:

Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack.

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Front position

Front Tire Flat: If the flat tire is on a front tire of the vehicle, you’ll need to use the jack handle (C) and only one jack handle extension (D). Attach the wheel wrench to the jack handle extension. Attach the jack handle to the jack. Position the jack on the frame behind the flat tire where the frame sections overlap. Turn the wheel wrench clockwise to raise the vehicle. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so there is enough room for the spare tire to clear the ground.

Rear position 1500 series

Rear position 2500 series

Rear Tire Flat: If the flat tire is on a rear tire of the vehicle, you’ll need to use the jack handle (C) and both jack handle extensions (D). Attach the wheel wrench to the jack handle extensions. Attach the jack handle to the jack. On all 1500 Series vehicles, use the jacking pad provided on the rear axle. On 2500 series vehicles, use the axle between the spring and shock bracket. Turn the wheel wrench clockwise to raise the vehicle. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so there is enough room for the spare tire to clear the ground.

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4. Remove all the wheel nuts and take off the flat tire.

5. Remove any rust or dirt

from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces and spare wheel.

{CAUTION:

Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If you do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel could fall off, causing a serious accident.

{CAUTION:

Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from the places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off.

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6. After mounting the

spare, put the wheel nuts back on with the rounded end of the nuts toward the wheel. Tighten each wheel nut by hand. Then use the wheel wrench until the wheel is held against the hub.

Rear position 1500 series

Rear position 2500 series

7. Turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise to lower

the vehicle. Lower the jack completely.

Front position

5-87

{CAUTION:

Incorrect wheel nuts or improperly tightened wheel nuts can cause the wheel to come loose and even come off. This could lead to an accident. Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts. If you have to replace them, be sure to get new GM original equipment wheel nuts. Stop somewhere as soon as you can and have the nuts tightened with a torque wrench to the proper torque specification. See Capacities and Specifications on page 5-114 for wheel nut torque specification.

Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead

Notice: to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque specification. See Capacities and Specifications on page 5-114 for the wheel nut torque specification.

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8. Tighten the nuts firmly in a crisscross sequence as

shown by turning the wheel wrench clockwise.

When you reinstall the full-size wheel and tire, you must also reinstall the wheel cover with attached plastic nuts, the plastic nut caps or the smooth center cap.

If you are reinstalling a wheel cover with attached plastic nuts, place it on the wheel and tighten the nuts by hand to get them started. Then tighten the nut caps with the wheel wrench until they are snug. Do not overtighten the nut caps or they may break.

(cid:127) If you are reinstalling plastic nut caps, tighten the nuts by hand to get them started. Then tighten the nut caps with the wheel wrench until they are snug. Do not overtighten the nut caps or they may break. If you are reinstalling the smooth center cap, place it on the wheel and tap it into place until it seats flush with the wheel.

Secondary Latch System Your vehicle has an underbody-mounted tire hoist assembly equipped with a secondary latch system. It is designed to stop the spare tire from suddenly falling off your vehicle. For the secondary latch to work, the spare must be installed with the valve stem pointing down. See Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools on page 5-92.

{CAUTION:

Before beginning this procedure read all the instructions. Failure to read and follow the instructions could damage the hoist assembly and you and others could get hurt. Read and follow the instructions listed below.

To release the spare tire from the secondary latch, do the following:

1. Check under the vehicle to see if the cable end

is visible. If the cable is not visible proceed to Step 6. 2. If it is visible, first try to tighten the cable by

turning the wheel wrench clockwise until you hear two clicks or feel it skip twice. You cannot overtighten the cable.

3. Loosen the cable by turning the wrench

counterclockwise three or four turns.

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(cid:127) (cid:127) 4. Repeat this procedure at least two times. If the

spare tire lowers to the ground, continue with Step 5 of Removing the Spare Tire and Tools on page 5-79.

5. Turn the wrench counterclockwise until

approximately 6 inches (15 cm) of cable is exposed. 6. Stand the wheel blocks on their shortest ends, with

the backs facing each other.

7. Place the bottom edge

of the jack (A) on the wheel blocks (B), separating them so that the jack is balanced securely.

8. Attach the jack handle, extension, and wheel

wrench to the jack and place it (with the wheel blocks) under the vehicle towards the front of the rear bumper.

5-90

{CAUTION:

Someone standing too close during the procedure could be injured by the jack. If the spare tire does not slide off the jack completely, make sure no one is behind you or on either side of you as you pull the jack out from the spare.

13. Disconnect the jack handle from the jack and

carefully remove the jack. Use one hand to push against the spare while firmly pulling the jack out from under the spare tire with the other hand. If the spare tire is hanging from the cable, insert the hoist handle, extension and wheel wrench into the hoist shaft hole in the bumper and turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise to lower the spare the rest of the way.

5-91

9. Position the center lift point of the jack under the

center of the spare tire.

10. Turn the wrench clockwise to raise the jack until it

lifts the end fitting.

11. Continue raising the jack until the spare tire stops

moving upward and is held firmly in place. The secondary latch has released and the spare tire is balancing on the jack.

12. Lower the jack by turning the wheel wrench

counterclockwise. Keep lowering the jack until the spare tire slides off the jack or is hanging by the cable.

14. Tilt the retainer (D) at

the end of the cable and pull it through the wheel opening. Pull the tire out from under the vehicle.

Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools

{CAUTION:

15. Turn the wheel wrench clockwise to raise the cable

back up if the cable is hanging under the vehicle.

Have the hoist assembly inspected as soon as you can. You will not be able to store a spare or flat tire using the hoist assembly until it has been replaced. To continue changing the flat tire, see Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire on page 5-82.

Storing a jack, a tire, or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place.

Notice: Storing an aluminum wheel with a flat tire under your vehicle for an extended period of time or with the valve stem pointing up may damage the wheel. Always stow the wheel with the valve stem pointing down and have the wheel/tire repaired as soon as possible.

5-92

1. Put the tire on the

ground at the rear of the vehicle with the valve stem pointed down and toward the rear of the vehicle.

2. Tilt the retainer (D) downward and through the wheel opening. Make sure the retainer is fully seated across the underside of the wheel.

3. Attach the wheel wrench (H) and extensions (I)

together.

5-93

A. Spare Tire

(Valve Stem Pointed Down) B. Hoist Assembly C. Hoist Cable D. Tire Retainer E. Hoist Shaft F. Hoist End of

Extension Tool

G. Hoist Shaft

Access Hole

H. Wheel Wrench I. Jack Handle

Extensions

J. Hoist Lock (If

Equipped)

4. Insert the hoist end (F)

through the hole (G) in the rear bumper and into the hoist shaft.

5. Raise the tire part way upward. Make sure the

retainer is seated in the wheel opening.

6. Raise the tire fully against the underside of the vehicle by turning the wheel wrench clockwise until you hear two clicks or feel it skip twice. You cannot overtighten the cable.

(A) Push and pull, (B) turn

7. Make sure the tire is stored securely. Push, pull, and then try to turn the tire. If the tire moves, use the wheel wrench to tighten the cable. Reinstall the spare tire lock (if equipped).

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To store the tools, follow these steps: 1. Return the tools to the tool bag and place it back in

the top-box storage unit.

2. Assemble the wheel blocks and bottle jack together

with the wing nut by reversing Step 2 under Removing the Spare Tire and Tools on page 5-79. 3. Replace the jack cover and tighten the jack-cover

wingnuts.

Spare Tire Your vehicle, when new, had a fully inflated spare tire. A spare tire may lose air over time, so check its inflation pressure regularly. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-67 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-46
for information regarding proper tire inflation and loading your vehicle. For instruction on how to remove, install or store a spare tire, see Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire on page 5-82 and Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools on page 5-92. After installing the spare tire on your vehicle, you should stop as soon as possible and make sure the spare is correctly inflated. Have the damaged or flat road tire repaired or replaced as soon as you can and installed back onto your vehicle. This way, a spare tire will be available in case you need it again.

Your vehicle may have a different size spare tire than the road tires-those originally installed on your vehicle. This spare tire was developed for use on your vehicle, so it is all right to drive on it. If your vehicle has four-wheel drive and the smaller spare is installed, keep the vehicle in two-wheel drive as much as possible. If your vehicle has a spare tire that does not match your vehicle’s original road tires and wheels in size and type, do not include the spare in the tire rotation. Appearance Care Cleaning products can be hazardous. Some are toxic. Other cleaning products can burst into flames if a match is struck near them or if they get on a hot part of the vehicle. Some are dangerous if their fumes are inhaled in an enclosed space. When anything from a container is used to clean the vehicle, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s warnings and instructions. Always open the doors or windows of the vehicle when cleaning the inside.

5-95

Fabric/Carpet Use a vacuum cleaner often to get rid of dust and loose dirt. Wipe vinyl, leather, plastic, and painted surfaces with a clean, damp cloth. GM-approved cleaning products can be obtained from your dealer. Here are some cleaning tips: (cid:127) Always read the instructions on the cleaner label. (cid:127) Clean up stains as soon as you can before they set. (cid:127) Carefully scrape off any excess stain. (cid:127) Use a clean cloth or sponge, and change to a

clean area often. A soft brush may be used if stains are stubborn. To avoid forming a ring on fabric after spot cleaning, clean the entire area immediately or it will set.

Never use these to clean the vehicle: (cid:127) Gasoline (cid:127) Benzene (cid:127) Naphtha (cid:127) Carbon Tetrachloride (cid:127) Acetone (cid:127) Paint Thinner

Turpentine Lacquer Thinner

(cid:127) Nail Polish Remover