1998 Chevrolet Astro Owners Manual

possible, have someone guide you.

4-34

Making Turns

NOTICE:

Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering.

When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance. Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have extra wiring (included in the optional trailering package). The arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps drivers you’re about to turn,

will also flash, telling other change lanes or stop.

When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working. Driving On Grades Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce your speed to around 45 mph (70 k d h ) to reduce the possibility of engine and transmission overheating. When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, consider the following: Engine coolant will boil at a lower temperature than at normal altitudes. If you turn your engine off immediately after towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs similar to engine overheating. To avoid this, let the engine run while parked (preferably on level ground) with the automatic transmission in PARK (P) for a few minutes before turning the engine off. If you do get the overheat warning, see “Engine Overheating” in the Index.

4-35

Parking on Hills You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged. But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s how to do it: 1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into

PARK (P) yet.

2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels. 3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.

4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking

brake, and shift to PARK (P).

5. Release the regular brakes.

4-36

When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down

while you: 0 Start your engine;

Shift into a gear; and Release the parking brake.

:ks.

2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the choc 4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks. Maintenance When Trailer Towing Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more on this. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transmission fluid (don’t overfill), engine oil, axle lubricant, belt, cooling system and brake adjustment. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review these sections before you start your trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight.

Trailer Wiring Harness If you have the optional trailering package, your vehicle will have an eight-wire harness, including the center high-mounted stoplamp battery feed wire. The harness is stored on the passenger’s side of the vehicle near the rear wheel well. This harness has a 30 amp battery feed wire and no connector, and should be wired by a qualified electrical technician. After choosing an aftermarket trailer mating connector pair, have the technician attach one connector to the eight-wire trailer harness and the other connector to the wiring harness on the trailer. Be sure the wiring harness on the trailer is taped or strapped to the trailer’s frame rail and leave it loose enough so the wiring doesn’t bend or break, but not so loose that it drags on the ground. The eight-wire harness must be routed out of your vehicle between the rear door and the floor, with enough of the harness left on both sides so that the trailer or the body won’t pull it.

If you do not have the optional trailering package, your vehicle will still have a trailering harness. The harness is located near the passenger’s side rear wheel well. It consists of six wires that may be used by after-market trailer hitch installers. The technician can use the following color code chart when connecting the wiring harness to your trailer. Brown: Rear lamps.

0 Yellow: Left stoplamp and turn signal.

Dark Green: Right stoplamp and turn signal. White (Heavy Gage): Ground. 0 Light Green: Back-up lamps. 0 White (Light Gage): Center High-Mounted

Stoplamp. Blue: Auxiliary circuit (eight-wire harness only). 0 Orange: Fused auxiliary (eight-wire harness only). Store the harness in its original place. Wrap the harness together and tie it neatly so it won’t be damaged.

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4-38

Section 5 Problems on the Road

Here you’ll find what to do about some problems that can occur on the road.

5-2 5-3 5-3 5-7 5-13 5- 15

Hazard Warning Flashers Other Warning Devices Jump Starting Towing Your Vehicle Engine Overheating Cooling System

5-22 5-22 5-23 5-36 5-37

Engine Fan Noise If a Tire Goes Flat Changing a Flat Tire Compact Spare Tire If You’re Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice, or Snow

5-1

Hazard Warning Flashers

The hazard warning flasher button is located on top of the steering column. Press the button down to make your front and rear turn signal lamps flash on and off. Your hazard warning flashers work no matter what position your key is in, and even if the key isn’t in. To turn off the flashers, press the button down again. When the hazard warning flashers are on, your turn signals won’t work. They also won’t flash while you’re braking.

Your hazard warning flashers let you warn others. They also let police know you have a problem. Your front and rear turn signal lamps will flash on and off.

5-2

Other Warning Devices If you carry reflective triangles, you can set one up at the side of the road about 300 feet (100 m) behind your vehicle. Jump Starting If your battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. But please follow the numbered steps to do it safely.

Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:

They contain acid that can burn you. They contain gas that can explode or ignite. They contain enough electricity to burn you.

If you don’t follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.

NOTICE:

Ignoring these steps could result in costly damage to your vehicle that wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it won’t work, and it could damage your vehicle.

1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt

battery with a negative ground system.

NOTICE:

If the other system isn’t a 12-volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged.

2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles aren’t touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you don’t want. You wouldn’t be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems.

5-3

To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transmission in PARK (P).

3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug

unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or accessory power outlets. Turn off all lamps that aren’t needed as well as radios. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. In addition, it could save your radio!

NOTICE:

If you leave your radio on, it could be badly damaged. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.

4. Open the hoods and locate the batteries. Find the positive (+) and negative (-) terminals on each battery.

A CAUTION:

1 ng a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You don’t need to add water to the Delco Freedom@ battery installed in every new GM vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you don’t, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Don’t get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.

5. Check that the jumper cables don’t have loose or

missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) and negative (-) will go to a metal engine part. Don’t connect positive (+) to negative (-) or you’ll get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too.

A CAUTION:

Fans or other moving engine parts can injure yo1 badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.

5. Connect the red

positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the vehicle with the dead battery.

Don’t let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery.

8. Now connect the black

negative (-) cable to the good battery’s negative (-) terminal. Don’t let the other end touch anything until the next step.

11. Try to start the vehicle with the dead battery.

If it won’t start after a few tries, it probably needs service.

12. Remove the cables in reverse order to prevent

electrical shorting. Take care that they don’t touch each other or any other metal.

The other end of the negative (-) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy unpainted metal part of the vehicle with the dead battery. Make your last connection away from the battery, to the engine block, frame or other unpainted metal part of your vehicle. The electrical connection is just as good there, but the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run the engine for a while.

9.

10.

5-6

1Al

A. Engine Block, Frame, Unpainted Metal Engine

Part or Body Surface

B. Good Battery C. Dead Battery

Towing Your Vehicle Try to have a GM dealer or a professional towing service tow your vehicle. They can provide the right equipment and know how to tow it without damage. See “Roadside Assistance” in the Index. If your vehicle has been changed or modified since it was factory-new by adding aftermarket items like fog lamps, aero skirting, or special tires and wheels, these things can be damaged during towing. Before you do anything, turn on the hazard warning flashers. When you call, tell the towing service:

Whether your vehicle has rear-wheel drive or the all-wheel-drive option. That your vehicle cannot be towed from the front or rear with sling-type equipment. The make, model and year of your vehicle. Whether you can still move the shift lever. If there was an accident, what was damaged.

I /1\ CAUTION:

To

help avoid injury to you or others: Never let passengers ride in a vehicle that is being towed. Never tow faster than safe or posted speeds. Never tow with damaged parts not fully secured. Never get under your vehicle after it has been lifted by the tow truck. Always use separate safety chains on each side when towing a vehicle. Use T-hooks on front or rear of vehicle.

5-7

A CAUTION:

A vehicle can fall from a car carrier if it isn’t adequately secured. This can cause a collision, serious personal injury and vehicle damage. The vehicle should be tightly secured with chains or steel cables before it is transported. Don’t use substitutes (ropes, leather straps, canvas webbing, etc.) that can be cut by sharp edges underneath the towed vehicle.

If your vehicle has the all-wheel-drive option, it can only be towed with all four wheels off the ground. A dolly must be used under the unraised wheels when towing or the vehicle must be transported on a flat bed carrier. Don’t have your vehicle towed with the wheels in contact with the ground if it has all-wheel drive. If a vehicle with all-wheel drive must be towed with sling-type or wheel-lift equipment, then either the front or rear wheels must be supported on a dolly.

NOTICE:

When your vehicle is being towed, have the ignition key in the OFF position. The steering wheel should be clamped in a straight-ahead position, with a clamping device designed for towing service. Do not use the vehicle’s steering column lock for this. The transmission should be in NEUTRAL (N) and the parking brake released.

If your vehicle has all-wheel drive, do not have it towed with the wheels in contact with the ground or vehicle damage may occur. A dolly must be used under the unraised wheels when towing or the vehicle must be transported on a flat bed carrier.

5-8

Towing From the Front (Except All-Wheel Drive) Tow Limits -- 35 mph (56 k d h ) , 50 miles (80 km)

NOTICE:

Do not tow with sling-type equipment or the front bumper system will be damaged. Use wheel-lift or car-carrier equipment. Additional ramping may be required for car-carrier equipment. Use safety chains and wheel straps. Towing a vehicle over rough surfaces could damage a vehicle. Damage can occur from vehicle to ground or vehicle to wheel-lift equipment. To help avoid damage, install a towing dolly and raise the vehicle until adequate clearance is obtained between the ground and/or wheel-lift equipment. Do not attach winch cables or J-hooks to suspension components when using car-carrier equipment. Always use T-hooks inserted in the T-hook slots.

5-9

Towing From the Front (All-Wheel Drive) A towing dolly must be used under the rear wheels when towing from the front.

NOTICE:

Do not tow with sling-type equipment or the front bumper system will be damaged. Use wheel-lift or car-carrier equipment. Additional ramping may be required for car-carrier equipment. Use safety chains and wheel straps. Towing a vehicle over rough surfaces could damage a vehicle. Damage can occur from vehicle to ground or vehicle to wheel-lift equipment. To help avoid damage, install a towing dolly and raise the vehicle until adequate clearance is obtained between the ground and/or wheel-lift equipment. Do not attach winch cables or J-hooks to suspension components when using car-carrier equipment. Always use T-hooks inserted in the T-hook slots.

5-10

Towing From the Rear (Except All-Wheel Drive)

NOTICE:

Do not tow with sling-type equipment or the rear bumper system will be damaged. Use wheel-lift or car-carrier equipment. Additional ramping may be required for car-carrier equipment. Use safety chains and wheel straps. Towing a vehicle over rough surfaces could damage a vehicle. Damage can occur from vehicle to ground or vehicle to wheel-lift equipment. To help avoid damage, install a towing dolly and raise the vehicle until adequate clearance is obtained between the ground and/or wheel-lift equipment.

5-11

Towing From the Rear (All-Wheel Drive) A towing dolly must be used under the front wheels when towing from the reaK

NOTICE:

Do not tow with sling-type equipment or the rear bumper system will be damaged. Use wheel-lift or car-carrier equipment. Additional ramping may be required for car-carrier equipment. Use safety chains and wheel straps. Towing a vehicle over rough surfaces could damage a vehicle. Damage can occur from vehicle to ground or vehicle to wheel-lift equipment. To help avoid damage, install a towing dolly and raise the vehicle until adequate clearance is obtained between the ground and/or wheel-lift equipment.

5-12

Engine Overheating You will find an engine coolant temperature gage on your vehicle’s instrument panel. See “Gages” in the Index. If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine

A CAUTION:

Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool.

NOTICE:

If your engine catches fire because you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty.

5-13

If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine If you get the overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you:

Climb a long hill on a hot day. Stop after high-speed driving. Idle for long periods in traffic.

0 Tow a trailer. See “Driving on Grades” in the Index. If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: I. Turn off your air conditioner. 2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan

speed and open the window as necessary.

3. If you’re in a traffic jam, shift to NEUTRAL (N);

otherwise, shift to the highest gear while driving -- DRIVE (D).

If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning doesn’t come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there’s still no sign of steam, push the accelerator until the engine speed is about twice as fast as normal idle speed. Bring the engine speed back to normal idle speed after two or three minutes. Now see if the warning stops. But then, if you still have the warning, turn ofs the engine nncl get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.

5-14

Cooling System When you decide it’s safe to lift the hood, here’s what you’ll see:

A. Coolant Recovery Tank B. Radiator Pressure Cap C. Engine Fan If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, don’t do anything else until it cools down.

The coolant level should be at the ADD mark. If it isn’t, you may have a leak in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system.

5-15

[ 6 h , CAUTION:

Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Don’t touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Don’t run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.

I NOTICE:

Engine damage from running your engine without coolant isn’t covered by your warranty.

If there seems to be no leak, start the engine again. See if the engine cooling fan speed increases when idle speed is doubled by pushing the accelerator pedal down. If it doesn’t, your vehicle needs service. Turn off the engine.

5-16

How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Recovery Tank If you haven’t found a problem yet, but the coolant level isn’t at the ADD mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean water (preferably distilled) and DEX-COOL@ engine coolant at the coolant recovery tank. (See “Engine Coolant” in the Index for more information.)

A CAUTION:

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid like alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean water and DEX-COOL@ coolant.

NOTICE:

In cold weather, water can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture.

You can be burned if you sl I coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.

When the coolant in the coolant recovery tank is at the ADD mark, start your vehicle. If the overheat warning continues, there’s one more thing you can try. You can add the proper coolant mixture directly to the radiator, but be sure the cooling system is cool before you do it.

5-17

Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the radiator

pressure cap -- even a little -- they can come out

at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and radiator pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.

5-18

2.

Then keep turning the pressure cap, but now push down as you turn it. Remove the pressure cap.

How to Add Coolant to the Radiator

1.

You can remove the radiator pressure cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise until it first stops. (Don’t press down while turning the pressure cap.)

If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.

5-19

3. Fill the radiator with the proper DEX-COOL@

coolant mixture, up to the base of the filler neck. (See “Engine Coolant” in the Index for more information about the proper coolant mixture.)

4. Then fill the coolant recovery tank to the ADD mark. 5. Put the cap back on the coolant recovery tank, but

leave the radiator pressure cap off.

5-20

6. Start the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fan.

7. By this time, the coolant level inside the radiator

filler neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper DEX-COOL@ coolant mixture through the filler neck until the level reaches the base of the filler neck.

8. Then replace the pressure cap. At any time during this procedure if coolant begins to flow out of the filler neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure the arrows on the pressure cap line up like this.

5-21

Engine Fan Noise This vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide more air to cool the engine. In most everyday driving conditions, the clutch is not fully engaged. This improves fuel economy and reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing andor high outside temperatures, the fan speed increases when the clutch engages. So you may hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and should not be mistaken as the transmission slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system functioning properly. The fan will slow down when additional cooling is not required and the clutch disengages. You may also hear this fan noise when you start the engine. It will go away as the fan clutch disengages.

If a Tire Goes Flat It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving, especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane. A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you’d use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop -- well off the road if possible. If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.

5-22

Changing a Flat Tire If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard warning flashers.

/!\ C! UTION:

Changing a tire can cause an injury. The vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over you or other people. You and they could be badly injured. Find a level place to change your tire. To help prevent the vehicle from moving:

1. Set the parking brake firmly. (P). 2. Put the shift lever in PARK 3. Turn off the engine. 4. Put the wheel blocks at the front and

rear of the tire farthest away from the one being changed. That would be the tire on the other side of the vehicle, at the opposite end.

The following steps will tell you how to use the jack and change a tire.

5-23

Removing the Spare Tire and Tools

The jacking equipment you'll need is stored by your vehicle's rear doors, along the passenger's side wall. Remove your jack cover by pulling it away from the side wall and down to release the tabs securing the top of the cover.

Remove the wheel blocks by turning the top nut toward the left. Remove the nut and washer, then pull the wheel blocks off the bolt. Push down on the bolt and remove the hooked end from the slot. Slide the jack toward the front of the vehicle and lift it from the mounting. Remove the extension and the ratchet from the pouch.

5-24

The ratchet has an UP side.

I It also has a DOWN side.

Your spare tire is stored underneath the rear of your vehicle. You will use the ratchet and extension to lower the spare tire.

Attach the ratchet, with the DOWN side facing you, to the extension. The extension has a socket end and a flat chisel end.

5-25

Put the flat end of the extension on an angle through the hole in the rear door frame, above the bumper. Be sure the flat end connects into the hoist shaft.

When the tire has been lowered, tilt the retainer plate at the end of the cable and pull it through the wheel opening.

Pull the tire out from under the vehicle.

I NOTICE:

To help avoid vehicle damage, do not drive the vehicle before cable is restored.

Turn the ratchet toward the left to lower the spare tire to the ground. Keep turning the ratchet until the spare tire can be pulled out from under the vehicle.

5-26

r-- -

The tools you'll be using include the jack (A), wheel blocks (B), extension (C) and ratchet (D). Removing the Wheel Covers You will have to take off hub caps or wheel nut caps to reach your wheel nuts.

Styled Steel Wheel Shown

If you have a standard steel wheel, carefully pry along the edge of the hub cap until it comes off. Be careful, the rim edges may be sharp. Don't try to remove the hub cap with your bare hands. If you have the styled steel wheel or aluminum wheel with plastic nut caps, loosen the plastic nut caps with the ratchet and socket. Make sure the DOWN side faces you. To remove the hub cap from the aluminum wheel without plastic nut caps, fit the flat end of the extension into the notch. Then, remove the center cap.

5-27

Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire

. . . . . . .

1. Before you start, block the front and rear of the tire farthest away from the one being changed. Then put your spare tire near the flat tire.

2. With the DOWN side facing you, use the ratchet and

socket to loosen all the wheel nuts. Don’t remove them yet.

3. The jack has a bolt on the end. Attach the socket end

of the extension to the jack bolt.

5-28

/-

n: -

1 2.0” (30.0 cm)

4. Attach the ratchet to the extension with the UP side

facing you.

5. Rotate the ratchet to the right. That will raise the jack

lift head a little.

6. Position the jack under the vehicle.

5-29

C

Front Position

A. Frame Pad B. Jack C. Wrench and Extension

Rear Position

A. Rear Spring Bracket B. Jack C. Wrench and Extension

5-30

/II CAUTION:

Getting under a vehicle when it is :ked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack, you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack.

A CAUTION: -

Raising yUdr vehicle with the jack improperly positioned can damage the vehicle and even make the vehicle fall. To help avoid personal injury and vehicle damage, be sure to fit the jack lift head into the proper location before raising the vehicle.

7. Raise the vehicle by rotating the ratchet toward the right. Make sure the UP mark faces you. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so there is enough room for the spare tire to fit.

8. Remove all the wheel nuts and take off the flat tire.

5-31

I1

9. Remove any rust or dirt

from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces and spare wheel.

I A CAUTION:

Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If you do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel could fall off, causing a serious accident.

10. Put on the spare tire. Put the nuts on by hand. Make sure the cone-shaped end is toward the wheel. Tighten each nut by hand until the wheel is held against the hub. If a nut can’t be turned by hand, use the extension and see your dealer as soon as possible.

Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from the places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off.

5-32

11. Lower the vehicle by turning the ratchet toward the

left. Lower the jack completely.

12. Tighten the wheel nuts firmly in a crisscross sequence as shown. Turn the ratchet toward the right with the UP mark facing you.

--

A CAUTION:

___

lee1 nuts or improperly tightened

In1 *rect wheel nuts can cause the wheel to become loose and even come off. This could lead to an accident. Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts. If you have to replace them, be sure to get new GM original equipment wheel nuts. Stop somewhere as soon as you can and have the nuts tightened with a torque wrench to 100 lb-ft (140 N-m).

5-33

NOTICE:

Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque specification.

13. Remove the wheel blocks.

I NOTICE:

Wheel covers won’t fit on your compact spare. If you try to put a wheel cover on your compact spare, you could damage the cover or the spare.

Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools

I A C d J T d N :

Storing a jack, a tire or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place.

1. Put the flat tire on the ground at the rear of the

vehicle, with the valve stem pointed down.

2. Tilt the retainer plate downward and through the

wheel opening. Make sure it is fully seated across the underside of the wheel. Attach the ratchet, with the UP side facing you, to the extension.

5-34

3. Put the flat end of the extension on an angle through

the hole in the rear door frame, above the bumper. Turn the ratchet toward the right until the tire is against the underside of the vehicle. Keep turning the ratchet until you feel at least two “clicks” when the tire is up all the way. Try to move the tire with your hands to make sure it is securely in place.

The compact spare is for temporary use only. Replace the compact spare tire with a full-size tire as soon as you can. See “Compact Spare Tire” in the Index. See the storage instructions label to restore your compact spare properly. Return the jacking equipment to its proper location.

1. Jacking Tool Storage Bag

2. Jack 3. Bracket 4. Jacking Instruction

Tag

5. Bolt/Screw 6. Wheel Blocks 7. Washer 8. Nut

5-35

Compact Spare Tire Although the compact spare tire was fully inflated when your vehicle was new, it can lose air after a time. Check the inflation pressure regularly. It should be 60 psi (420 kPa). After installing the compact spare on your vehicle, you should stop as soon as possible and make sure your spare tire is correctly inflated. The compact spare is made to perform well at speeds up to 65 mph (105 km/h) for distances up to 3,000 miles (5 000 km), so you can finish your trip and have your full-size tire repaired or replaced where you want. Of course, it’s best to replace your spare with a full-size tire as soon as you can. Your spare will last longer and be in good shape in case you need it again.

NOTICE:

When the compact spare is installed, don’t take your vehicle through an automatic car wash with guide rails. The compact spare can get caught on the rails. That can damage the tire and wheel, and maybe other parts of your vehicle.

Don’t use your compact spare on other vehicles. And don’t mix your compact spare tire or wheel with other wheels or tires. They won’t fit. Keep your spare tire and its wheel together.

I NOTICE:

Tire chains won’t fit your compact spare. Using them can damage your vehicle and can damage the chains too. Don’t use tire chains on your compact spare.

5-36

If You’re Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow What you don’t want to do when your vehicle is stuck is to spin your wheels too fast. The method known as “rocking” can help you get out when you’re stuck, but you must use caution.

A CAUTION:

If you let your tires spin at high speed, they can explode, and you or others could be injured. And, the transmission or other parts of the vehicle can overheat. That could cause an engine compartment fire or other damage. When you’re stuck, spin the wheels as little as possible. Don’t spin the wheels above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.

NOTICE:

Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting your transmission back and forth, you can destroy your transmission.

For information about using tire chains on your vehicle, see “Tire Chains” in the Index. Rocking Your Vehicle To Get It Out First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will clear the area around your front wheels. Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear. If that doesn’t get you out after a few tries, you may need to be towed out. If you do need to be towed out, see “Towing Your Vehicle” in the Index.

5-37

& NOTES

5-3s

b 6 NOTES

5-39

b% NOTES

5-40

Section 6 Service and Appearance Care

Here you will find information about the care of your vehicle. This section begins with service and fuel information, and then it shows how to check important fluid and lubricant levels. There is also technical infc vehicle, and a part devoted to its appearance care.

lation about your

6-2 6- 3 6- 5 6-7 6-7 6- 10 6- 15 6- 19 6-20 6-23 6-25 6-25 6-28 6-29 6-29 6-30 6-3 1 6-35

Service Fuel Filling Your Tank Filling a Portable Fuel Container Checking Things Under the Hood Engine Oil Engine Cover Air Cleaner Automatic Transmission Fluid All-Wheel Drive Rear Axle Engine Coolant Radiator Pressure Cap Thermostat Power Steering Fluid Windshield Washer Fluid Brakes Battery

6-36 6-36 6-42 6-42 6-5 1 6-5 1 6-53 6-55 6-56 6-57 6-57 6-58 6-59 6-59 6-60 6-67 6-68 6-69

Bulb Replacement Halogen Bulbs Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Tires Appearance Care Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle Cleaning the Built-in Child Restraint Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle Cleaning Tires Finish Damage Underbody Maintenance Appearance Care Materials Chart Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) Service Parts Identification Label Electrical System Capacities and Specifications Air Conditioning Refrigerants Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts

6-1

Service Your dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you’ll go to your dealer for all your service needs. You’ll get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. We hope you’ll want to keep your GM vehicle all GM. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:

Genuine

Doing Your Own Service Work If you want to do some of your own service work, you’ll want to use the proper GM Service Manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see “Service and Owner Publications” in the Index. Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see “Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped Vehicle” in the Index. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See “Maintenance Record” in the Index.

6-2

I Fuel

Use regular unleaded gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher. At a minimum, it should meet specifications ASTM D48 14 in the United States and CGSB 3.5-M93 in Canada. Improved gasoline specifications haw been developed by the American Automobile Manufacturers Association (AAMA) for better vehicle performance and engine protection. Gasolines meeting the AAMA specification could provide improved driveability and emission control system protection compared to other gasolines. Be sure the posted octane is at least 87. If the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If it’s bad enough, it can damage your engine. If you’re using fuel rated at 87 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service. But don’t worry if you hear a little pinging noise when you’re accelerating or driving up a hill. That’s normal, and you don’t have to buy a higher octane fuel to get rid of pinging. It’s the heavy, constant knock that means you have a problem.

You can be injured and J licle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it. 0 Be sure you have sufficient knowledge,

experience, the proper replacement parts and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task. Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts and other fasteners. “English” and “metric” fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.

Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airflow around it. This may cause wind noise and affect windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle.

To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that will help prevent deposits from forming in your engine and fuel system, allowing your emission control system to function properly. Therefore, you should not have to add anything to the fuel. In addition, gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in your area to help clean the air. General Motors recommends that you use these gasolines if they comply with the specifications described earlier.

NOTICE:

Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Don’t use it. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage wouldn’t be covered under your warranty.

If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emission Standards (indicated on the underhood emission control label), it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. If such fuels are not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp on your instrument panel may turn on and/or your vehicle may fail a smog-check test. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for diagnosis to determine the cause of failure. In the event it is determined that the cause of the condition is the type of fuels used, repairs may not be covered by your warranty. Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask your service station operator whether or not his fuel contains MMT. General Motors does not recommend the use of such gasolines. If fuels containing MMT are used, spark plug life may be reduced and your emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp on your instrument panel may turn on. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for service.

6-4

Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. To check on fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you’ll be driving. You can also write us at the following address for advice. Just tell us where you’re going and give your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN).

General Motors Overseas Distribution Corporation 1908 Colonel Sam Drive Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7

Filling Your Tank

A CAUTION:

- -

Gasoline vapor is highly flaml,,~ble. It burns violently, and that can cause very bad injuries. Don’t smoke if you’re near gasoline or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, flames and smoking materials away from gasoline.

6-5

The fuel cap is behind a hinged door on the driver’s side of your vehicle.

A CAUTION:

If you get gasoline on yourself and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. Gasoline can spray out on you if you open the fuel filler cap too quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel filler cap slowly and wait for any (‘hiss” noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.

Be careful not to spill gasoline. Clean gasoline from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See “Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle” in the Index. When you put the cap back on, turn it to the right (clockwise) until you hear a clicking sound. Make sure you fully install the cap. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index.

While refueling, place the cap in the holder on the fuel filler door. To remove the cap, turn it slowly to the left (counterclockwise). The cap has a spring in it; if you let go of the cap too soon, it will spring back to the right.

NOTICE:

If you need a new cap, be sure to get the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and your fuel tank and emissions system may be damaged. See “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index.

Filling a Portable Fuel Container A CAUTION:

Never fill a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others:

Dispense gasoline only into approved containers.

CAUTION: (Continued)

Do not fill a container whilc vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed or on any surface other than the ground.

: is inside a

0 Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the

inside of the fill opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the filling is complete. Don’t smoke while pumping gasoline.

Checking Things Under the Hood

A CAUTION:

Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like gasoline, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.

6-7

Hood Release

To open the hood, first pull the handle inside the vehicle on the lower driver's side of the kick panel.

Then go to the front of the vehicle and release the secondary hood release.

6-8

When you open the hood, this is what you will see:

A. Windshield Washer Fluid Fill Location B. Coolant Fill Location C. Oil Dipstick Location D. Transmission DipsticWill Location E. Air Cleaner

F. hngine Oil b111 Location G. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir H. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir I. Battery

6-9

I

Remove the hood prop from the slot in the hood and I return the Drop to its retainer. Then just pull the hood down and close it firmly.

1 . L

Lift the hood, release the hood prop from its retainer and put the hood prop into the slot in the hood. Before closing the hood, be sure all the filler caps are on properly. Then lift the hood to relieve pressure on the hood prop.

Engine Oil It's a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.

6-10

The engine oil dipstick is a yellow ring. Turn off the engine and give the oil a few minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you don’t, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.

6-11

When to Add Engine Oil If the oil is at or below the ADD line, then you’ll need to add at least one quart of oil. But you must use the right kind. This part explains what kind of oil to use. For crankcase capacity, see “Capacities and Specifications’’ in the Index.

I NOTICE:

Don’t add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged.

Be sure to fill it enough to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you’re through.

What Kind of Engine Oil to Use Oils recommended for your vehicle can be identified by looking for the “Starburst” symbol. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API). Do not use any oil which does not carry this Starburst symbol.

If you change your own oil, be sure you use oil that has the Starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. If you have your oil changed for you, be sure the oil put into your engine is American Petroleum Institute certified for gasoline engines.

You should also use the proper viscosity oil for your vehicle, as shown in the following chart:

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I

RECOMMENDED SAE VISCOSITY GRADE ENGINE OILS

FOR BEST FUEL ECONOMY AND COLD STARTING, SELECT THE LOWEST SAE VlSCOSlTT GRADE OIL FOR THE EXPECTED TEMPERATURE RANGE,

LOOK

FOR THIS SYMBOL

HOT

WEATHER

O F

O C )

+ 100 - - +38

+BO- - +27

+80- - +16 +40- - + 4

+ 2 0 - - - 7

0 - - - 1 8

REO

COLD

WEATHER

DO NOT USE SAE 2OW-50 OR AMY OTHER GRADE OIL NOT RECOMMENDED

As shown in the chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. However, you can use SAE low-30 if it's going to be 0°F (- 18 "C) or above. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils, such as SAE 20W-50.

I NOTICE:

Use only engine oil with the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines "Starburst" symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty.

GM Goodwrench' oil meets all the requirements for your vehicle. If you are in an area where the temperature falls below -20°F (-29"C), consider using either an SAE 5W-30 synthetic oil or an SAE OW-30 oil. Both will provide easier cold starting and better protection for your engine at extremely low temperatures.

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Engine Oil Additives Don't add anything to your oil, Your dealer is ready to advise if you think something should be added. When to Change Engine Oil If any one of these is true for you, use the short trip/city maintenance schedule:

Most trips are less than 5 to 10 miles (8 to 16 km). This is particularly important when outside temperatures are below freezing. Most trips include extensive idling (such as frequent driving in stop-and-go traffic). Most trips are through dusty areas. You frequently tow a trailer or use a carrier on top of your vehicle. The vehicle is used for delivery service, police, taxi or other commercial apl :ation.

Driving under these conc'"ions c Ses engine oil to break down sooner. If any one oi rnese is true for your vehicle, then you need to change your oil and filter every 3,000 miles (5 000 km) or 3 months -- whichever occurs first.

If none of them is true, use the long trip/highway maintenance schedule. Change the oil and filter every 7,500 miles (12 500 km) or 12 months -- whichever occurs first. Driving a vehicle with a fully warmed engine under highway conditions causes engine oil to break down slower. What to Do with Used Oil Did you know that used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer? Don't let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly throw away clothing or rags containing used engine oil. (See the manufacturer's warnings about the use and disposal of oil products.) Used oil can be a real threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all free-flowing oil from the filter before disposal. Don't ever dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help.

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Engine Cover Removing the Engine Cover 1. Move both front seats as far back as they will go.

3. The nuts are located at the bottom of the extension

on the driver’s and passenger’s side corners.

2. Remove the instrument panel extension by removing

the two nuts that secure it in place.

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4. Remove the screws located near the top on each side of the extension. Grasp the extension from both sides and gently remove it.

5. Disconnect the electrical connectors and set the

extension aside.

6-16

6. Grasp the top of the heater duct and pull down gently

to remove it.

7. Remove the two bolts at the engine cover. The bolts are not supposed to come out of the cover, only from the front of the dash. When removing the cover, be careful not to damage the instrument panel or the trim.

8. Disconnect the AM radio ground strap.

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Installing the Engine Cover 1.

Lift the engine cover into the vehicle and slide it all the way forward. Make sure the rubber seal is over the latches. Install the two bolts at the engine cover. Put the heater duct over the engine cover studs. Push up on the duct gently until it snaps into place. Reconnect the electrical connectors. Install the engine cover extension by gently squeezing the sides and sliding it into place. Make sure all of the fastener clips engage and the extension fits properly in place. Replace and tighten the two screws. Install the two nuts to secure the extension in place.

2. 3.

4. 5 .

6.

9. Grasp the bottom of the cover and slide it rearward.

Then, lift it up and out of the vehicle. If the seal does not release, use the pull strap on the driver’s side above the rear mount.

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Air Cleaner

To remove the air filter, lift the hood, unsnap both clips and remove the top. After changing the filter, snap both clips to secure the air cleaner. Be sure the air cleaner lid is correctly positioned to seal out dust and contaminants that are harmful to your engine. Make sure the fresh air hose is still attached after the filter change. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to replace the air filter and the crankcase ventilation filter.

See “Scheduled Maintenance” in the Index.

&A CAUTION:

Operating the engine with the air cleaner off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air, it stops flame if the engine backfires. If it isn’t there, and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Don’t drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner off.

I NOTICE:

If the air cleaner is off, a backfire can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner in place when

you’re driving.

6-19

filter every 15,000 miles here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.

How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at your GM dealership Service Department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions

NOTICE:

Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid.

Automatic Transmission Fluid When to Check and Change A good time to check your automatic transmission fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change both the fluid and (25 000 km) if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions: 0 In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature

regularly reaches 90°F (32 “C) or higher.

0 In hilly or mountainous terrain. 0 When doing frequent trailer towing.

Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service.

If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, change the fluid and filter every 50,000 miles (83 000 km). See “Scheduled Maintenance Services’’ in the Index.

6-20

’Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission fluid level if you have been driving:

When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C). At high speed for quite a while.

0 In heavy traffic -- especially in hot weather. 0 While pulling a trailer. To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F 182°C to 93 ” C). See “Checking Transmission Fluid ’Hot” in the Index.

Checking Transmission Fluid Hot Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). If it’s colder than 50°F (lO”C), drive the vehicle in DRIVE (D) until the engine temperature gage moves and then remains steady for 10 minutes. Then follow the hot check procedures.

Checking Transmission Fluid Cold A cold check is made after the vehicle has been sitting for eight hours or more with the engine off and is used only as a reference. Let the engine run at idle for five minutes if outside temperatures are 50°F (10°C) or more. If it’s colder than 50°F ( 10°C), you may have to idle the engine longer. Should the fluid level be low during a cold check, you must perform a hot check before adding fluid. This will give you a more accurate reading of the fluid level.

Checking the Fluid Hot or Cold

Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine running. With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever in PARK (P) . With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P).

0 Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more.

6-21

Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:

3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower level. The fluid level must be in the COLD area for a cold check or in the HOT area or cross-hatched area for a hot check.

The transmission dipstick has a red handle and the center of the engine compartment behind the air cleaner. 1. Flip the handle up and then pull out the dipstick and

is located near

wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.

4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the

dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.

2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and

then pull it back out again.

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How to Add Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transmission fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Add fluid only after checking the transmission fluid while it is hot. (A cold check is used only as a reference.) If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level up to the HOT area for a hot check. It doesn’t take much fluid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Don’t overji11.

NOTICE:

We recommend you use only fluid labeled DEXRON@-111, because fluid with that label is made especially for your automatic transmission. Damage caused by fluid other than DEXRON-I11 is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as described under “How to Check.” When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.

All-Wheel Drive If you have an all-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure to perform the lubricant checks described in this section. However, they have two additional systems that need lubrication. Transfer Case When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See “Periodic Maintenance Inspections” in the Index.

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How to Check Lubricant

If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.

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Front Axle When to Check and Change Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services’’ in the Index. How to Check Lubricant

If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.

What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.

Rear Axle When to Check and Change Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index. How to Check Lubricant

What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Engine Coolant The cooling s stem in your vehicle is filled with DEX-COOL engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for 5 years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km) whichever occurs first, if you add only DEX-COOL’ extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see “Engine Overheating” in the Index. A 50/50 mixture of water and DEX-COOL@ coolant will:

Give freezing protection down to -34°F (-37°C).

0 Give boiling protection up to 265 “F ( 129°C). 0 Protect against rust and corrosion.

If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.

Help keep the proper engine temperature. Let the warning lights and gages work as they should.

6-25

NOTICE:

When adding coolant, it is important that you use only DEX-COOL@ (silicate-free) coolant. If’ coolant other than DEX-COOL is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or engine coolant will require change sooner -- at radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Damage caused by the use of coolant other than DEX-COOL@ covered by your new vehicle warranty.

is not

What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean water (preferably distilled) and one-half DEX-COOL@ coolant which won’t damage aluminum parts. If you use this mixture, you don’t need to add anyth‘ ; else.

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid like alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean water and DEX-COOL@ coolant.

6-26

NOTICE:

If you use an improper coolant mixture, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts.

If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system.

I NOTICE:

If you use the proper coolant, you don’t have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful.

Checking Coolant

. .

When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at ADD, or a little higher. When your engine is warm, the level should be up to FULL HOT, or a little higher.

6-27

Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOL@ coolant mixture at the coolant recovery tank.

A CAUTION:

lhrning the radiator pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. With the coolant recovery tank, you will almost Never turn the radiator pressure cap -- even a never have to add coolant at the radiator. little -- when the engine and radiator are hot.

Add coolant mixture at the recovery tank, but be careful not to spill it.

A CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.

Radiator Pressure Cap

NOTICE:

Your radiator cap is a 15 psi (105 kPa) pressure-type cap and must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss and possible engine damage from overheating. Be sure the arrows on the cap line up with the overflow tube on the radiator filler neck.

6-28

Power Steering Fluid

When you replace your radiator pressure cap, a GM cap is recommended. Thermostat Engine coolant temperature is controlled by a thermostat in the engine coolant system. The thermostat stops the flow of coolant through the radiator until the coolant reaches a preset temperature.

When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.

6-29

How To Check Power Steering Fluid When the engine compartment is cool, wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean, then unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. Then remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on the dipstick. The level should be at the FULL COLD mark. If necessary, add only enough fluid to bring the level up to the mark. What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.

Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing. Adding Washer Fluid

I Open the cap labeled

WASHER FLUID ONLY. Add washer fluid until the tank is full,

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NOTICE:

When using concentrated washer fluid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water. Don’t mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water doesn’t clean as well as washer fluid. Fill your washer fluid tank only three-quarters full when it’s very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full. Don’t use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.

Brakes Brake Fluid

Your brake master cylinder reservoir is here. It is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid.

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There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes won’t work well, or won’t work at all. So, it isn’t a good idea to “top off’ your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid won’t correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you’ll have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add (or remove) brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

too much brake fluid, it can spill on

If you we the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to check your brake fluid. See “Periodic Maintenance Inspections’’ in the Index.

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Checking Brake Fluid

What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid -- such as Delco Supreme ll@ (GM Part No. 12377967). Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.

I A CAUTION:

You can check the brake fluid without taking off the cap. Just look at the brake fluid reservoir. The fluid level should be above MIN. If it isn’t, have your brake system checked to see if there is a leak. After work is done on the brake hydraulic system, make sure the level is above the MIN but not over the MAX mark or the top of the window on the side of the reservoir.

With the wrong kind of fluid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.

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A CAUTION:

The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes won’t work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.

I NOTICE:

Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair.

Some driving conditions or climates may ca---e a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or llgntly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly torque wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM specifications.

Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they’ll have to be replaced. Don’t let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See “Appearance Care” in the Index.

Brake Wear Your vehicle has front disc brakes and rear drum brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving (except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly).

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Your rear drum brakes don’t have wear indicators, but if you ever hear a rear brake rubbing noise, have the rear brake linings inspected immediately. Also, the rear brake drums should be removed and inspected each time